Piaggio Moped Engine Rebuild
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2017
- A complete guide to rebuild or repair a Piaggio moped engine, like you would find in a Vespa Ciao, Bravo, Si, Grillo, Gilera Citta etc. I talk about changing bearings, measuring the ignition components and more.
Tuning guide can be found here:
• Piaggio Moped Engine T... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Dissasemble - Flywheel and Electric components 1:35
Dissasemble Cylinder 6:31
Piston Removal 8:02
Crankcase splitting 10:13
Crankshaft bearings removal 17:07
Crankshaft inspection 19:07
Bearings mounting 22:41
Crankshaft & crankcase mounting 24:18
Ignition parts measuring 27:46
Ignition parts mounting 35:10
Breaker points setting and adjusting 39:11
Ignition testing 41:39
Cylinder-kit mounting 42:44
Thanks you buddy apreciate
Thanks so much for sharing this information! This is what the internet should be.
I am buying a broken vespa from a friend for an emergency vehicle and i hope this helps me rebuild the engine!!! You are amazing!
today i started with the revision of the engine because it had some strange vibration.
did that often in the past but not for some years .
stopped half way and needed some help and advice so turned to you tube : your video is of great help ; tomorrow i am going to fix the problem!
afterraincomessun u need to fix the flywheel with flyweight
Great video! This will be my go-to video if I ever need to pull the engine apart. Thanks for taking the time to show everything.
The Piaggio moped engine is such a simple thing, but I like it very much when things are simple and tough. Nice tutorial about the rebuild. I have done these work many times and so I can say this is a fine guide for beginners.
Hi Carsten, thank you very much for sharing your calm, essential and very informative video. It helped me a lot to bring an old Ciao back on the street. Kind regards Chris
Thanks for that awesome how to! This will help a a lot, because right now Im overhauling a bravo engine. Subscribed to your channel! Greetings from Germany, fellow neighbor!
Dear friend, it's very interesting to watch this video. Very useful to understand the moped engine mechanism. Thanks for sharing and taking so much of pain to make this video 👌
Thank you for excellent presentation! I have learned a lot new things about ciao engine.
Thanks for showing how to do this. It helps me out a lot !
Great video!, Thanks for posting in English...I appreciate it👍
Good work. It looks like you've done this many times before.
I like your solid surface counter-top.
A soda-blaster would make those casings look almost like new, and perhaps some Evaporust or electrolysis for rust.
Respect for your work man
im rebulding a piaggio bravo and this is gonna help me a lot, tanks
Great tips this guy knows the correct way to do it make sure to Pay attention!!
Very nice video ! This engine is use in my piaggio boxer too. ( sorry for mistakes, i am from Slovakia )
Sehr gutes Video! Danke Gruss von Heinz aus der Schweiz.
Tolles Video, bist ein Ehrenmann!
Excellent video, Thank you.
Really thank you sir ,you had my total respect👌
You're English is better than Americans I know. I'll never understand why I couldn't learn another language this well. Even after 10 years in Germany I wasn't this fluent. Sigh.
You do an excellent job on theese Videos - keep on - Thank you!!
also, a good tip for assembling bearings: after you heat the bearings, get a can of keyboard cleaner/compressed air can and turn it upsidedown and spray to quickly cool the crank shafts before dropping on the bearing. it's quicker and easier than putting the whole crank in the freezer.
Ziemlich gut erklaert gutes video
Super video will use it soon to restore my engine.
Great Video Carsten
The professional job thank you very much
great video.thanks for the time and effort.central california.
The best video available for the Vespa engine. Could You do more video’s of the clutch etc well so far thx
Thank you :) I will do my best to make more, when i can find the time.
Kudos to you Sir . But I have to ask , you didn't show us that modification about intake port and crankcase that you mention ... other than that this is perfect .
Thank you! I made a video only about the tuning part here: th-cam.com/video/4mcr5-tuANY/w-d-xo.html
I thought it would be best to keep them apart, so that the non tuners don't have to go through it all :)
Good point , thanks. Going there wright now .
Hello Carsten
I was wondering, do I need to tighten the small housing at the top of the crank house case at a specific moment, because when I tighten it, it’s almost impossible to turn around the crankshaft.
Thank you for your informative videos!
nice video thanx ; my motor parts did not want to loosen but then i had not heated them!
Thanks! Really good video!
How do I know in which way I should install the piston if it doesn't have markings?
mi ero addormentato a guardalo... continuo domani
Thank you! It helped me alot!
complimenti per il video. ottimo :)
very good job, thanks a lot
I need that clip to fasten the cooling shield onto the top of the cilinder; do you happen to know where I can get one? Can't find them anywhere, thanks in advance!
Normally i buy it at JMPB, but can't find it on their homepage right now :-/
do the points constantly make contact with the crankshaft or does it only touch it to open the gap on the points?
I think when correctly adjusted, only when the lobe starts to rise. If they where in contact all the time, the points would open very early and could also open at the wrong time due to engine vibrations or worn crank bearings. But that's something i've never looked at, so i'm kinda guessing ;-)
Excellent video! I've got a 1996 Kinetic TFR (Luna) which was made in India using a copy of the Ciao engine but lacks the variator. One of the crankcase bearings failed in my engine. I took it apart and replaced the bearings. After the bearings had failed, I was able to spin it with a drill but not start it. At this point it had 100 PSI of compression. Not that great but not bad.
That gasket that goes between the two engine halves they sent me looked like it was cut from an aluminum Pepsi can and did not seal worth a damn and lost compression and sucked in air.
After putting the engine back together the compression dropped to 90 PSI and would only run at WOT (lean). I then discovered gas/oil leaking from where the two engine halves go together.
I made a paper gasket from the aluminum one I was sent. I put the engine back together but for some reason this time it would not start at all. It took it apart again and accidently broke one of the rings which trying to remove it. I should have replaced them anyway while I had the engine apart. I ordered new rings but got frustrated and quit on it. That was eight years ago. It may have been an unrelated issue (carburetor).
I boxed the engine and parts up and pushed it into a storage building and it's sat there ever since. I just recently acquired a 1985 Tomos Silver Bullet. I'm putting a 70cc kit on it. I also have a 1999 Tomos TX-50 dirt bike which uses the A35 engine and transmission. Don't know if these were only sold for the US market.
You've inspired me to get my Kinetic out and take another look at this thing. One reason I watched your video is the ring orientation. Seems like the go on a certain way. And that decompression valve!
I'll check out your Cioa performance video. My Tomos seems to be restricted to 32 kph. I think because in the 1980s you could ride this if you didn't have a driver's licence.
BTW. I live in Tennessee, United States. Interesting enough, the moped laws that were in place in my state years ago seem to be obsolete. I had to register my Silver Bullet as a motorcycle and there is no laws on increasing it's power as long as I don't go over the posted speed limit. I also have to have a standard driver's license (125ccs+ requires a motorcycle license).
Thanks for the interesting read. I hope you get the Vespa copy out on the road again with help from my videos :)
I have a 2001 Kinetic (slower than an old dog - spedo says 30 while radar sign says 25, needs to go at least 30 to avoid being run over in single lanes) - I made an expansion pipe with twin muffs and wrapped the thing in fiberglass to further quiet it, that added 5 mph.
Did the 13;13 carb with a 55 jet, and that added a tiny bit of power. But the main restriction appears to be in the engine case, thus I am studying vids here and Carsten's are great (and in English, not Italian- nice). Thank you Carsten!! Mike
Oh, Carsten, I have been experimenting with a valve in the exhaust "bleeder" that gives some variable back pressure to regain the low end that is typically lost with the expansion deal.
A weighted plunger sits against a seat (nearly vertical pipe) and as flow presses against the plunger, it rises to uncover holes that vent the exhaust into the muffler. The low end seems (as far as I can tell) like stock, and the back pressure increases to just over one pound at 30 mph, the pipe seems to "Hit" at 20 mph.
Hello again MR Lorenzen. I am considering buying a new crankshaft. The bearing at the rod end is making a little noise when I am turning the rod. It feels smooth however. Which aftermarket crankshaft would you recommend?
Hello. My favorite is Mazzucchelli, they make both 10 and 12 mm wristpin models, and both with an original cutout and a version with enlarged racing inlet timings.
Thank you bro good man.
Where do you find the Cylinder With the same size but made of aluminium?
I'm sad bought myself a top racing crankshaft but heard you say this one is not good. Do I need to buy a new one? What are the weak points on the shaft? Do I need to use another needlebearing where there piston is on? I have a original piaggio used needle bearing. Is this one better then the one on the top racing?
The original is one of the best. If it's not worn out, I'd use it. Top Racing has a bad reputation of breaking in tuned engines, I've just never dared to try them, but have seen many pictures of broken shafts. Maybe they are better nowadays?
Thanks for the great video. Can I test spark with ignition plug connected (/I did but no spark, so is there some grounding issues or what ever?) or should I use just open ended wire as you did?
Always test with just the wire, if you have a spark over 5-6 mm your ignition is ok. Then the error must be in the cap og plug. Yes the engine and external coil must have a good ground connection to each other. Hope this helps you.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V This is perfect, will do so. Thanks for the quick answer.
Tak for den her mega gode film du har lavet her, den er virkelig guld værd👍🏻 har selv lige renoveret min egen ciao motor ved hjælp af denne film 👍🏻 plus man blev en del klogere på netop denne motor 👍🏻😎
Tak for de fine ord, er glad for at kunne hjælpe 🙂
Kæmpe hjælp 👍🏻☺️
Lige et spørgsmål. Kan du anbefale man bruger den alu pakning som bundpakning der høre med til det polini cylinderkit jeg har købt. Eller bør man selv lave en i pakningspapir 😊?
@@g1jensen jeg laver altid en ny passende papir pakning. Dermed ikke sagt at alu ikke duer, synes bare de ofte passer dårligt.
Okay, umildbart passede den faktisk som den skulle, så tænker jeg tager chancen 😊
When I step on my kickstarter on my vespa bravo it stops/jumps, I have think it might be the swing wheel being broken, it does not feel like its connected correctly to the engine like yours is on this video.
Do you have any advise to what might be wrong?
I haven't worked on the Kickstart model yet, i have one in stock but no experience yet.
Is it a vespa or a bravo ?
Great video! what measurments are there on the flywheel puller?
I haven't measured, just bought it. Most moped shops have it in their catalogue.
Hei Carsten, fantastisk fin video. Jeg er i gang med å renovere en Ciao jeg fikk av min bestefar før han gikk bort. Vil gjerne at den blir helt strøken, så derfor ønsker jeg å vite hva du renset motoren med? Et karr med en børste?
Håper du har anledning til å svare, takk på forhånd!
Patrick Rindal, jeg bruger en stiv børste og petroleum, det er super til at løsne gammel olie snavs. Det er nemmest få fat i lampeolie eller tændvæske til grillen, det indeholder næsten kun petroleum.
God fornøjelse med arvestykket :-)
Veldig god video, hilsen fra Norge
Hallo, Danke für das Video. Welche Lager benutzt Du? Einmal C3 und 1x C4?
C3 in der Zündungsseite und normal in der anderen, also "CN" (steht nichts drauf bei normal Lagerluft).
You are the best
thanks for these video . i have same moto bike but the probleme can't start every morning gaz is ok .candle too .carburetor too. i don't know whats happen .can you help me
it´s an old video, i don´t think he cheking the comments any more :)
Hej Carsten. Jeg er igang med et ligeledes projekt som du viser her i videoen, så tak for gode fif. Har du et tip til at fjerne begrænsningen på en snild måde? du nævner noget med at krumtaplejet på tændings siden ikke er helt identisk med det modsatte leje som jeg ikke lige fik fat i? :D
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Okay mange tak :)
Do you have a video showing all the cables?
When i did a rebuild on my Piaggio Ciao engine i didn't thought it was a difference between the two bearings so i just mounted them anyhow. And when i mounted my two engine blocks the crankshaft didn't turn around as smoothly as before. Do you think the cause can be the bearings that is on wrong positions? Is there anything else that can turn bad by having it like this?
The reason that your crank didn't turn as smoothly is not caused by the eventually misplaced bearings. The extra clearence is between the balls and inner/outer ring, probably to accommodate for the extra heat the ignition makes. I think the reason is that the bearings are under tension, that happens easily in this kind of engine where you mount it hot/cold. If you run it like that, it can shorten the bearing life alot!
You can reheat around the bearing seats on the outside, and give the engine case some rubber-hammer hits like i show in the video, that normally helps with the tension.
Thanks for this video :)
You are welcome :)
Ganz locker das beste ciao motor video. R E S P E K T
Aș dori sa traduceti in limba romina si mai tare sonorul va multumesc
tak for en god video skal til den helt store renovering på min ciao din video hjælper mig nok en del :D
Velbekomme, det glæder mig at høre.
Very nice video, Carsten. I am restoring a 1971 Ciao, stopped for years. Did you say 12 Nm to tight each head nut? Thanks for sharing, oscar.
Yes 12 Nm is fine.
thanks for the nice vid :)
Thank you
Great video! I have a problem with the flywheel grinding the cable for the condensator. What am i doing wrong?
Tidy the wires until they have enough room for the spinning flywheel 😉
@@CarstenLorenzen12V sorry my bad, the damage is at the top of the condensator and there’s no way to put it any tighter against it.. might be that I’ve received a bad one that doesn’t fit..
@@kimmyrask7368 I've never seen this happen. I'd try another one, brand Effe.
Or mount a external 330 nF MKP capacitor near the ignition coil, 250V or more is fine. Then just cut the capacitor down until it doesn't rub, and use it only to hold the feltpad to grease the cam.
How did you open up the inlet? Which metod did you use?
See my other video for the tuning part, should be right after this one.
5:35 = "keyway" on the shaft and washer/ bushing slots
38:00 = "key" goes into keyway slot and washer/ bushing slots
Could i put first the bearings in the engine then the crankshaft
Yes that is possible, but then you can't achieve a large temperature difference, than the other way. The engine cases with bearings can only be heated to 120°C, so it's a good idea to put the crank in the freezer for at day. I would start with the small closed case, that side of the crankshaft is the tightest fitment and can cause trouble. If it doesn't go straight on, you can't hit press/hit it on, as it will damage the bearing. That's why i prefer to mount the bearings on the crankshaft first, if the hot and cold method doesn't work, i can still press/hit the bearing the rest of the way.
The fitment between the engine case bore and bearing outerring is not that tight, and you can heat the cases higher to 150-200°C.
So my recommandation is like in the video, but the other way is also ok if done right.
Hello my friend, thank you for this great video. A question, what would cause a "weak" spark - one that can only jump 2-3mm, but not 6mm and definitely not 10mm? Same test as you have run, but the spark isn't jumping that distance. Thank you!
Many things sadly. Start to measure all the things i show in the video, if a component is far of, replace it. Other than that, a small short to ground in the wiring or breaker points can give the same error.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate it. At least I'm on the right track, just going through everything. Many thanks from Cleveland, Ohio!
@@fpcb750er also check that the external coil has a good connection to ground. You can connect a wire from the coil ground to the engine case for testing.
Hej Carsten. Jeg har renoveret min motor nøjagtig som du har gjort ved denne. Men efter 1 km køre tur, så begyndte den og lugte brændt fra tændingen. Svinghjulet køre helt frit. Kan dog se at føde/lysspole har haft kontakt til svinghjul.
Hello man, so I have a engine I pulled out of an Grillo. Its seems to have good compression and it has spark but when the previous owner said it wasn't turning on and it really isn't . I have checked fuel and spark . Could it be a timing issue ? The engine seems good shape. Also great video !
Hi. Have you cleaned the carburetor? Maybe the main jet or atomizer pipe is clogged.
Also, how strong is the spark? Eventually do the test straight from the cable, like in the video.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V I will have a look but i think the carb was pulled from a working piaggio SI that engine lost compression and couldn't run, but I'll look at the carb to see if any build up is the problem since it has been sitting for a while after it's engine broke down. For the spark I'll try and see how strong it is although I didn't really test it , it did give me quite a shock in my hand while I was cranking it but ill check it with a proper test. Thanks for the advice !
hey nice video! ive watched it many times. Hope you can answer even though its such an old video. I was just wondering: are the crankshaft bearings lubricated from the fuel/oil mixture or did you put some bearing grease there?
They are lubricated by the oil in the gasoline. I may have used sealed bearings where i removed the seals, hence the grease residue. It's fine, gives lubrication on the start up.
If you have "dry" bearings, give them a few drops of oil.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V ok thanks! I might have used bearing grease on the bearings before installing. Do you think it's best to open up and remove it or do you think it will wear off?
@@andersbacklund6224 it wears of over time. No biggie.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V ok thanks for the info!
hallo
just want to thank you for this great tutorial. 🗿
Thanks for your comment, it was fun making this video. I think i will make more in the future :)
Hej Carsten. rigtigt god video. kan du fortælle mig størrelsen på de afstands ringe under krumtapslejet, og hvor man kan købe dem henne ?
Hej, husker ikke dimensionerne, de plejer at være i renoverings sættene. Ellers kan de købes enkelt her:
www.jmpbdele.dk/vulring-krukas-citta-ciao.html
bruh.. you did it better than an italian. great job.
My ignition coil has 0.9 ohm resistance. However, it only measures 0.3 volts running when measured at the H.T. input. Should I replace the ignition coil?
Did you measure AC voltage? I have no reference values like that, but your engine is running? What's the problem you are trying to solve?
@@CarstenLorenzen12V No, that was DC voltage. I have an engine miss at speeds over 15 mph.
@@rever1111 the coil makes AC. But that won't tell you much i guess.
A faulty coil could do that at higher speeds and heat in the coil.
Could be a carburetor issue too.
I have no spark on my bravo. Tried a new condensor, didnt work. So i am going to do the test of ignition parts, as you do in the video. Can i keep the cylinder on, while checking for spark? Just mounted a malossi gasket set on it, and don't want to ruin it. Thinking of taking the spark plug out, and letting some gasoline in, just in case...
Yes you can keep the cylinder in place, it's easier. Take the spark plug out, and maybe a few drops of oil to lubricate the piston while you test turn it.
Tak for svaret, og tak for videoen. Den er bare go :)
Hi.. in my piaggio vespa I had a problem with the ignition. Then one bike expert converted breaking point platina into CDI.. Now the problem is the bike only starts when the chock air is closed in the carburator. When it comes to normal position it stops. What will be the problem here. Please help.
Fuera de tiempo ¿)
Hi there! I take some measurements before I close the engine an i realized that at the smaller crankcase half, there is a kind of embedded spacer upon which the bearing sits on. Measuring the distance from spacer to the edge is 1cm and the bearing has a width of 1.1cm. This makes it by 1mm higher from the bottom of crankcase and not fully inside. Is this normal? It is a model engine around 70s
Yes that is normal :-)
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thank you! Your video is the best guide ever.
Does the rubber seal on the crank shaft ever go bad and cause the engine to not start due to lack of suction on intake side. I have a piaggio clone engine " kenetic" and it's has good compression and spark. But will not start. Thank you for this great Video.
Yes it can go bad, but normally it would only cause a lean condition. It has to be very bad to cause a no start.
Also check if the key is still there in the flywheel. It could be sheared off and then the spark comes at the wrong timing.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V thank you carsten l, yes my keyway is intact i have removed the flywheel and the seal seems good maybe i have just flooded the crank case.
Hey!
Did you solve the problem? And So, how? Thanks alot
Dankeschön
Hallo weißt du zufällig wie man die Technik bei den Mofa zusammenschließen muss?
Can you please give the threading specifications of the flywheel remover. It's difficult to get that part in my country.
Thank you!
Thread is 17x1, recommended tool is the Buzzetti 17R1. Good luck
@@darrenmelia4527 thanks a ton!
17x1
hey , great video
i have same engine im trying to start it.
installed new piston ,rings ,no leakage from head ,suction from carburator side works fine , spark is good as well as coils.....yet engine not firing up, a little misfires once or twice , hence fuel comes up , i thought maybe decompression valve might be leak but checked for leak test all good......but still engine not firing up... please help , let me know if i missed something, im stuck !!!!!!
hmm maybe you have put the wrong fuel mixture?
Check sparktiming, I had a ciao once that stripped the locating ping for the flywheel all by itself.
Hey!
Did you solve the problem? And So, how? Thanks alot
i love what you doing man, i started doing this rebuild i few months now, the only problem that, i am facing is i cant fint flywheel removal tool :'( ! i dont like to use hammer !
thanks for the videos
Where do you live? In Europe it's easy to get.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V I’m living in the north of Africa ( Morocco) !
I saw same one that you have in several sites but the shipping is too expeinsive very expensive I must invest to buy it 😛 !
I appreciate your effort to put this video online, thanks again 🤝
@@CarstenLorenzen12V could you send me a link for the remover? ^^
@@Fabian-lu8xy www.jmpbparts.com/vliegwieltrekker-citta-ciao.html
Hvilken størrelse kugleleje aftrækker bruger du?
Jeg kan se, at man kan få en 30-50 og 50-70. Tænker at 30-50 er den bedste?
Korrekt, lejet er 35 mm udvendig.
Best cleaner I've ever used on aluminum isAluminum bright It will make your aluminum cases look Brand New
lækker video, kæmpe hjælp, da jeg skal i gang med 2x renovation af vespa ciao motore
Hej Carsten. Sikke en god gennemgang! Kan du huske hvor du har købt din “vaskebalje” henne? Jeg har ledt efter en af den størrelse noget tid, men har kun kunne finde de store kar. På forhånd tak
Hej. Det er denne www.rustfribolte.dk/201-rensekar-12l-med-220v-pumpe.html?Rensekar+12L+med+220v+pumpe&from=kelkoo&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6t6ABhDMARIsAONIYyyziJx2MmVFUYA9SmHpd2FZAJ2t_br6RBvLE_LhlSfCk2WNXmm30fkaAsq7EALw_wcB
@@CarstenLorenzen12V super! Og, søreme om der ikke var 43 procent rabat
@@CarstenLorenzen12V er der noget opløsningsmiddel du har bedre erfaring med andet i det vaskekar? Eller bruger du bare vand med sæde?
@@juliejohansen4122 jeg bruger biltemas koldaffedtning blandet 1:1 med vand. Det fungerer godt for mig. Har også forsøgt med nogle industri affedtnings sæber fortyndet efter forskrifterne, men det virkede ikke lige så godt.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V okay, super! Tak for svaret
Is it possible to use the original ignition with the 60cc athena? When getting over 45khm it just bangs and lose the power. Stop the engine and start again like nothing. Any ideas?
Yes the original points ignition is stable up to around 10.000 RPM. Most Ciao etc kits are pretty mild in the RPM department. Be sure not to run too much pre-ignition. With a tuned engine it is best to measure the exact ignition timing, especially with aftermarket points. I had to use 0,30 mm points gap to get down to 17-18° ignition before TDC. With 0,40 mm points gap, i had alot of knocking on my Polini 46 mm engine and way too much timing advance.
I would recommend a timing of 17-18° before TDC if you use a degree wheel, that equals 1,2-1,3 mm before TDC if you use a micrometer.
BTW, is your jetting correct?
New to timing ignitions but will look it up. Try to make it to 0,30 rather then 0,40 that is now I guess. The fuel/air is good. Chocklad brown on the sparkplug.
kan original crankshaft fra 25-30 km/t ciao fra 93 holde til malossi/polini cylinder kit?... du nævner på et tidspunkt de originale dele er ret holdbare... men det var vist mest si og bravo...
Hej, ja den er lige så stærk som de andre originale piaggio modeller. Hvis den ellers er i god stand. Husk at tilpasse styretiderne, det kan du se i den anden video jeg har lavet om denne motor.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V det simpelthen det sjoveste jeg har kastet mig ud i flere år ha! - 1000 tak for perfekt instruktions video. Har downloaded det skema ift.styretider du har lagt ud i .pdf på 12v.dk men er ikk´ nået dertil. - Blot hygge og hobby no stress, godt din video nærmest er idiotsikker hahaha...
Vielen Dank damit kann man endlich mal auf Fehlersuche gehen.
btw. Denglish vom feinsten :D "if there is a short" traumhaft !
mach weiter mit den Videos.
Ich glaub sogar das man im Englischen auch "short" sagt, wie in short circuit? :)
Hört sich im ersten Moment witzig an ! Möchte nicht an deiner Stelle stehen und um die Fachbegriffe ringen :P
link to the flywheel puller please?
Rigtig go video den vil jeg bruge når jeg skal igang med min ciao. Ville dog gerne ha set hvordan du fik plumpen ud ?😊👍
damn that's a small ass intake port, I didn't know they came that small.
my Ciao seems to have poor ignition, the spark is weak and sometimes takes a lot of pedaling to start, especially when hot. I use NGK B7HS normally, it won't spark at all when using a surface gap spark plug without the little armature, I believe it's NGK BU8H type plug.
Gutes Video und ordentlich erklärt, wäre aber schön wenn es dieses noch mit deutscher Sprache gäbe.
hello is there is a washer behind the bearing on the crankshaft on the side or there is no key
I'm not sure i understand what washer you mean? There's a washer between the crankshaft and the bearings on both sides. And a washer above the breaker points cam.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V I'm french
@@CarstenLorenzen12V thank you
@@CarstenLorenzen12V instagram or facebook ? please
@@kevinyz2591 12v.dk
How do you get the gas intake hole bigger in the crankcase? I've tried drilling but can't get through.
Please watch my other video about tuning the engine, you need to grind it. Drilling it can result in a broken engine very easily.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Woops, ok I will try that. In your tuning video the steel restricting plug dosen't exist. What kind of grinding bit would you use for that?
@@johanmagnusson2203 if you have the long steel restriction, use a mini dremel angle grinder disc and remove the surface in the middle of the inlet window. Until you can see the restriction. Then you can use a punch and drive it out with a hammer. But support the inlet from the other side, with i.ex a socket. Hope that makes sense, be careful with the dremel, always leave 2 mm on the long sides of the inlet window, and 3 mm on the ends.
Give me your e-mail, then i can send some pictures.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Sent an email to your youtube email!
Can someone shed some light for me even with timing set it doesn't matter because the bottom point doesn't even move to contact the top point
What type of silicone is used between the engine halves?
Originally, none. Just the paper gaskets. I like to smear them in grease, that makes them hold the position. And if you ever need to disassemble it again, the gasket won't stick to the surface as bad.
If your surfaces are bad, you can use a petrol resistant gasket marker. Like threebond 1104 or similar.
Should i use 0.40mm on a 65cc cylinder ? Could be 80cc not really sure
0,35-0,40 is good for a tuned cylinder, you don't want too much pre ignition with higher RPMs. Less gap means less advanced ignition.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V 0.40 worked like a charm, 0.35 was out of tune, thanks for sharing valuable informations much appreciated
Encontre una en argentina andaba rara le pusieron cdi y platinos juntos ahahahah buen dato. Adjunta circuito electrico de encendido
Got 3 and the have some tape on the corners 2 green 1 black