Another great video, brother. Showing this tedious process should keep people from bitching about prices of FRP body parts. Hours and hours of messy, hard labor are required just to make a simple fascia or air dam. Thanks for your great content. Cheers from near Aspen, Colorado US.
Fantastic. Thank you. I've been wanting to get into doing some parts and have been hesitant, and this along with your other videos are chipping away my reservations in starting
I love your approach and work (especially your Miata stuff). I'm making a Star Wars themed Miata and learning so much from your videos. Do you sell your parts somewhere? I'd love to purchase as I don't have the ability/space to do many of the amazing things you do. Thank you! 🙏
@@TofuAutoWorks That's for sure! It got bumped slightly and the entire thing shattered like glass. I think the largest surviving pieces were around the emblems lol. But hey, if I want to do a whole car soon I'll need to find an easy jumping off point eventually. So thanks for the tutorials, they'll come in handy!
Hey Tofu! Thanks for your videos, they're really helping and I'm thinking about creating replicas of my bumper, which is very rare in my country, in case I break it and have to replace it. Does moulding a piece from an existing piece damage the paint of the original? Or is the release agent (wax) enough to prevent any sorts of damage? Also, how do you end up fitting the fiberglass part? OEM parts have hardpoints with holes to fit the part and screw it to the car, but since fiberglass is hard to work with in tiny areas, how do you make those hardpoints?
You want to be careful as even if you apply a heavy coat of wax and PVA release agent, sometimes the gelcoat can find it's way into small details and pull up the paint. Also if the original paint isn't 2k (for example if it were lacquer, enamel, spray paint, acrylic etc...) then the styrene and heat produced in the moulding process may weaken the paint and cause it to blister and come off the surface. It's just a risk you have to take and worst case scenario you may have to sand and repaint the part. When I make fiberglass reproductions of parts that originally came with mounting points, I always try and change the design slightly so that I can avoid the need for them. In the case of this garnish panel, the original plastic one had about 6 clips that held the panel flush with the car. I don't use any of these and instead it is bolted in place with 4 bolts, and to ensure it sits flush with the car I made the curve of the part slightly more bowed so that when fitted to the car, the ends rest on the metal and hold everything tight through tension. It's easy to adjust the fit with foam tape if it sits a little too tight.
@TofuAutoWorks I see, thank you for your help! I guess the best way is to try and learn through the process, I have a broken part of my previous bumper so I'll train on that before tackling the actual bumper I'll try it once the girl is fixed and out of the garage, that way I'll have enough room to work with, thanks again brother! ❤️
Removes the sharp nibs sticking up on the corners that would stop the next layer of fiberglass from laying flat and leave airbubbles. Also keys the surface for better mechanical bond between layers.
With a small piece like this it would probably be fine, but typically you want to minimize layer thickness because more resin = more heat = more risk of it warping as it comes out of the mould. It also gives you that first layer (coupling coat) to just focus on bonding to the gelcoat with no airbubbles. For something this size and complexity I charge around 350 NZD
It took me ttil the end-ish tto realize what that was. Is it a stock replacement for a Miata (MX-5) or is it slightly modified?I think I remember twhen you made it, but that was a while ago.
Slightly modified to work with the fiberglassing process, but mostly just a reproduction of the original plastic part. Completely interchangeable with the stock part.
Yes, these moulds can be used to make both. The key difference is the extra flange around the outside of the part which lets you use a vacuum bag for carbon fiber parts.
Вот очередной раз убеждаюсь, лично для меня работать полиэфирной смолой ,сплошной геморрой . Слишком много нюансов и сопутствующих инструментов надо и химзащиты . И по барабану что она дешевле чем эпоксидная смола . По моему мнению, эпоксидной смолой куда проще и крепче деталь по итогу !!!! Но как к мастеру , вопросов нет !!!! 👍
you're a master at your craft
That's the cleanest and also seemingly most difficult part I've ever seen done out of fiberglass.
That's so well done man
Another great video, brother. Showing this tedious process should keep people from bitching about prices of FRP body parts. Hours and hours of messy, hard labor are required just to make a simple fascia or air dam. Thanks for your great content. Cheers from near Aspen, Colorado US.
That's the best tutorial I've ever seen 🎉😢 you're a great teacher 😂😮😮 thanks bro
Almost anything indeed 😃
Thanks to you, I made fibreglass custom mudflaps in a dual mold 😄 (so they can mount with the side skirts)
That's so awesome dude! Keep it up!
Fantastic. Thank you. I've been wanting to get into doing some parts and have been hesitant, and this along with your other videos are chipping away my reservations in starting
I hope you get around to it soon, making stuff yourself is so rewarding.
Bravo Tofu, bon travail de la fibre 🎉.
Continue comme ça
That's awesome that you're doing a collab with B is for Build!!!
Ты как всегда очень крут.
За объяснения отдельное спасибо 🤝
I love your work!
Dude... totally love ur videos, keep it up, i got the inspiration to work on 3d from ur videos! Thank you so much!
凄く 丁寧に作ってますね！
Bravo Tofu ti seguo dall'Italia continua così
Amazing tutorial! Thanks for posting!
Awesome video!
Eres un capo. Siempre excelente trabajo. Saludos
pure gold video man
お疲れ様です！
リアリップいい感じに仕上がってきそうですね！
こちら(日本)は秋になり朝晩は肌寒く感じるようになってきました。
これからも身体に気を付けて頑張ってください。
ではまた！
Nice work👍👍👍👍
Came for the ae86 rearbumper, stayed for everything in between❤
Thanks for sharing i love your Videos 😊
damn this like an ASMR video with the rain in the background
Love how you clean your brushes like Bob Ross xD
I love your approach and work (especially your Miata stuff). I'm making a Star Wars themed Miata and learning so much from your videos.
Do you sell your parts somewhere? I'd love to purchase as I don't have the ability/space to do many of the amazing things you do. Thank you! 🙏
babe wake up new rear bumper dropped
Magnifique 😊
Four years after breaking this panel on my Miata, I still haven’t fixed it. Maybe this is my sign to get out and do something.
They're such a fragile panel, making them out of glass is just so much better than plastic.
@@TofuAutoWorks That's for sure! It got bumped slightly and the entire thing shattered like glass. I think the largest surviving pieces were around the emblems lol. But hey, if I want to do a whole car soon I'll need to find an easy jumping off point eventually. So thanks for the tutorials, they'll come in handy!
Hey Tofu!
Thanks for your videos, they're really helping and I'm thinking about creating replicas of my bumper, which is very rare in my country, in case I break it and have to replace it.
Does moulding a piece from an existing piece damage the paint of the original? Or is the release agent (wax) enough to prevent any sorts of damage?
Also, how do you end up fitting the fiberglass part? OEM parts have hardpoints with holes to fit the part and screw it to the car, but since fiberglass is hard to work with in tiny areas, how do you make those hardpoints?
You want to be careful as even if you apply a heavy coat of wax and PVA release agent, sometimes the gelcoat can find it's way into small details and pull up the paint. Also if the original paint isn't 2k (for example if it were lacquer, enamel, spray paint, acrylic etc...) then the styrene and heat produced in the moulding process may weaken the paint and cause it to blister and come off the surface.
It's just a risk you have to take and worst case scenario you may have to sand and repaint the part.
When I make fiberglass reproductions of parts that originally came with mounting points, I always try and change the design slightly so that I can avoid the need for them. In the case of this garnish panel, the original plastic one had about 6 clips that held the panel flush with the car. I don't use any of these and instead it is bolted in place with 4 bolts, and to ensure it sits flush with the car I made the curve of the part slightly more bowed so that when fitted to the car, the ends rest on the metal and hold everything tight through tension. It's easy to adjust the fit with foam tape if it sits a little too tight.
@TofuAutoWorks I see, thank you for your help! I guess the best way is to try and learn through the process, I have a broken part of my previous bumper so I'll train on that before tackling the actual bumper
I'll try it once the girl is fixed and out of the garage, that way I'll have enough room to work with, thanks again brother! ❤️
you could modify the mold to use those holes places for a pneumatic demolding plug
No need, demoulding these sorts of parts is pretty trivial and it's quicker to use wedges than to run up my compressor most of the time.
Thanks for this detail...may I ask what is the intermediate rough sanding step for before applying the second layer of fibreglass on the moulded part?
Removes the sharp nibs sticking up on the corners that would stop the next layer of fiberglass from laying flat and leave airbubbles. Also keys the surface for better mechanical bond between layers.
Very nice, looks great. Why not put all layers of fiberglass at one time? And how much do you charge for that piece? 👍👌
With a small piece like this it would probably be fine, but typically you want to minimize layer thickness because more resin = more heat = more risk of it warping as it comes out of the mould. It also gives you that first layer (coupling coat) to just focus on bonding to the gelcoat with no airbubbles.
For something this size and complexity I charge around 350 NZD
amazing!
It took me ttil the end-ish tto realize what that was. Is it a stock replacement for a Miata (MX-5) or is it slightly modified?I think I remember twhen you made it, but that was a while ago.
Slightly modified to work with the fiberglassing process, but mostly just a reproduction of the original plastic part. Completely interchangeable with the stock part.
@@TofuAutoWorks
Interchangeable ?
You miss some fixings...
Can we also have videos on how to make those molds !!! Pls
They are linked in the video description.
🇨🇴🇨🇴 MEDELLÍN 🇨🇴🇨🇴
Bro you are master!Please make a video tha you will show how we can make a copy from original part like you have in the table!
Videos on making the moulds for this are in the video description
Hi there! What about B is for build collab on their murcielago? 😊
I likely wont be making a video on that as it's just design work. It is still a very cool thing to be asked to work together on though.
Does adding the styrene effect how much hardener you use?
Not really. The only thing that would make you change the amount of hardener is the outside temperature or how much working time you need.
is it possible to use the same mould you use for fiberglass to make carbon fiber parts as well?
Yes, these moulds can be used to make both. The key difference is the extra flange around the outside of the part which lets you use a vacuum bag for carbon fiber parts.
What is that piece
The manufacturing Hot Wheels design the die cast Mazda Mx5 Miata is same with Your Car, your car is Popular.😅😂
Look in the die cast (Hot Wheels 2025 Case B) you car MX 5 at here.😅😂
Third
Вот очередной раз убеждаюсь, лично для меня работать полиэфирной смолой ,сплошной геморрой . Слишком много нюансов и сопутствующих инструментов надо и химзащиты . И по барабану что она дешевле чем эпоксидная смола .
По моему мнению, эпоксидной смолой куда проще и крепче деталь по итогу !!!!
Но как к мастеру , вопросов нет !!!! 👍
Bro please use more decent lung and eye protection.