ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
- Here is how to install a brake chamber using the instructions that come with them. I follow every step from beginning to end. This is a very comprehensive video and I try to make it as easy as possible to understand. My chamber is a 30/30 long stroke. Hope you enjoy.
Tools needed:
1. Tape measure
2. Anti-seize
3. Needle-nose pliers
4. 3/4" ratchet or air tool
5. 15/16" deep socket
6. Teflon paste or tape
7. Square
8. Light green painters tape
9. Pen
10. 15/16" wrench
11. Crescent wrench (if you dare)
12. Grinder with cutoff wheel (maybe)
13. Hearing protection
14. Eye protection
Heres where to find the instructions to cage and uncategorized the chamber and also more detailed instructions: www.haldex.com/en/North-Ameri...
Heres how to change the brake shoes:
• How to change rear bra...
Heres how to change a brake drum: • Changing front brake d...
Don't forget to subscribe for everything trucking:
/ @aftersolo
00:00 Introduction
00:15 Parts identification
01:11 Caging the chamber
03:00 Disconnecting the airlines
03:57 Pulling out clevis pin
04:44 Unmounting the brake chamber
05:31 Cutting off the other chamber
06:24 Mounting brake chamber, only for measurement
07:09 Measuring for alignment
08:00 Measuring clevis length
09:14 Marking pushrod at 90° to slack adjuster
09:54 Making cut mark on pushrod
11:06 Thread on jamnut
12:15 Cutting the pushrod
12:45 Deburring the pushrod
13:02 Attaching clevis
13:54 Mounting brake chamber
15:34 Lining up slack adjuster to clevis
16:05 Inserting pins in clevis
16:58 Attaching airlines
18:17 Uncaging brake chamber
19:04 Tightening jamnut
19:16 Brake adjustment
19:46 Checking for interference
20:20 Checking pushrod stroke
20:56 Checking angle between pushrod and slack adjuster
22:21 Final thoughts
Under no circumstances will AfterSolo be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss of damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether by AfterSolo or a third party. In no event shall AfterSolo be liable for any special, indirect or consequential damages or any damages whatsoever resulting from loss of use, data or profits arising out of or in connection with the availability, use or performance of any information communicated in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of AfterSolo, it cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. AfterSolo assumes no liability for property damage or injury occurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. AfterSolo recommends safe practices when performing any do-it-yourself repairs and/or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of AfterSolo, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not AfterSolo.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to like and subscribe for more content:---www.youtube.com/@aftersolo
I envy your patience with that instruction sheet. Great job, and thanks for the upload.
Yes. They weren't easy. You're welcome
Best DIY video ever. Thanks for sharing 🙏🏾⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Just a tip or two from another machanic. You can use the brake adjuster to your advantage, after you pull out the clavis pin use the brake adjuster and open up the brakes. When you feel that the brakes are fully open keep turning a little more and that will pull the arm of the brake adjuster out of your way when you go open the mounting nuts. 2 if you have shop air handy you can skip the spring brake cage bolts, after you disconnect the air lines from the caliber just connect shop air to the spring brake side. And the new spring brake cage bolts you should put those in the cab so they wont rust. We have had many calibers cracked because of those bolts rusting inside that aluminium hole on the calibers side.
Appreciate all the tips. Sounds like you know what you're doing. I don't have an air Compressor. I'm about out of room in my one car garage. I'll have to take off those caging bolts and put them in the cab. That makes sense. And getting the slack adjuster out of the way how you said makes sense too. It got in the way a lot.
@@aftersolo Well i have worked as a truck mechanic for 27 years so i guess you can say i know a thing or two ;)
Good job. Took a lot of patience.
@@hapsusamiWe are ready for another brake chamber replacement video.
Really great‼️,video,, better than Any I seen,,😅,,good job, I subscribed
Thankyou
Awsome video and explanation. Kee up the grear work
Thankyou.
Nice video ! I would like to add an item. Pipe threads get the teflon paste, you should never add teflon paste to a metal to metal seal like the seal from the air hose to the fitting you screwed into the brake chamber. Don't put anything on that side of the fitting, just make sure that it is real clean, those threads on that side do not do any sealing it's the metal to metal part at the beginning of the fitting that does the sealing. @ 18:04 If you have an air leak in the future, I would look at this fitting first.I hope this helps you ! Be safe and have a good day!
Oh, ok. Appreciate the tip. I never know when or when not to add the Teflon half the time. So you're saying it needs nothing? Just bare?
@@aftersolo Just when you have a metal to metal seal. When you have a metal to metal seal, the sealing surface does the sealing not the threads.I hope this helps!
@@RNP69 if you've been in the field you know that a little teflon tape goes a long way. metal on metal never seals air tight. stop the cap.
@@brucemcelroy3186 I would say to you, Have you ever worked in the field? I have worked all my life in the field ! What do you think a flare fitting is? metal to metal, The threads on a flare fitting DO NOT do any sealing ! just one example, Oh one more example of metal to metal is a pipe union.
@@RNP69 there was one flare connection and three NPT connections. he put pipe dope on all four. the only one that didn't need pipe dope was the flare. NPT connections never seal air tight. you've been putting air leaks back on the road my guy. nobody even uses flare fittings on brake lines anymore. get with the times.
Awesome video.. you think like most of us 😂
Appreciate it. 👍
Good vid man !
Plane n simple.
Yer a cool dude
Thank u
Hell, I appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks!
Thankyou for that.
Gracias 🙏
after touching about 3500 dry box van trailers over the past 6 years I've realized that a lot of individuals can't execute this process very well. I've set up close to 200 brake chambers and replaced service diaphragms on another 100. most of the guys I know that work on tractors do what they call back-halfing. they only replace the front part of the chamber, effectively avoiding: removing the clevis, removing the chamber nuts, and measuring/cutting the push-rod. After that process you've replaced all the air-sealing components and replicated the brake stroke from before. do what you will with this info. I always replace the entire chamber, adhering to the entire manufacturer procedure. I hate the pipe goop. I'm a taper. I've sealed over 1000 units to
Sounds like you know what you're doing. Yeah, a lot of guys were saying I don't have to replace the whole thing, but I figure if one part is bad, the other is probably close to going bad. Might as well do it all while I'm down there as well as the other side so everything is even. I hate having a bunch of mismatched parts.
What is it about the Teflon paste that you don't like? The stickiness? That stuff is impossible to get off your hands. One guy said there's no reason to put anything on the connections since they're tapered. Idk. I like extra security.
@@aftersolo I was using tape, three wraps, and making sure I went the correct way so it wouldn't peel back when you screwed it in, for a few years. I went to a new company and they said we only use the paste, I used it one time and hated it. I continued using the teflon tape I had in my box. eventually they got me more of it. Earlier in my career I argued with a guy that you didn't need any sealant (tape or dope) and he proved me wrong with a leak-down test on job I had just done. The fittings we stock currently have some pink stuff on the threads already from the factory. I assume it's a thread sealant. I still put two layers of tape. I always liked flare fittings but I haven't come across one in a long time on an air brake system. maybe they're more common on tractors. old dude is right about not needing any sealant on the flare fitting.
@brucemcelroy3186 ok. I appreciate all the input. All I did was drive trucks for 9 years and never really learned anything about them. I've had the business 6 years now, and I've learned so much about working on them. I've always been mechanically inclined growing up on a farm and all, so this truck is kind of like my farm I guess you could say. There's always something to do on it and always something to do with it. Keeps me busy.
O.k. I have a question for anyone that knows. Are all the nuts 15/16 the same on all chassis brake chambers or are they different nut sizes? I need to order some.
I wouldn't know, but I would bet they were all 15/16.
Measure your old pushrod
amateur hour.
liked. no sub.
Cool.