In 8 years of service and 20 years since.. I've never once seen or heard of a mil spec castle nut failing. This is an answer to a question nobody is asking!
@@thefrogking481 My point is that a castle nut "failing" is not the same as a castle nut coming loose. Failure means the steel yields, breaks, or otherwise permanently deforms. I, too, have never heard or seen a castle nut fail; I have, however, heard and seen a castle nut come loose.
@superego fees. Wouldn't it basically be the same? Coming loose is by definition a failure to properly install. Therefore, a failure. Just a definition of terms I guess.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle just for the class 3 threads? Or reasons besides? I know I've seen you briefly cover/advocate for class 3 threads in a video but I couldn't pick the video out if I tried. Do you mind refreshing me?
Fun fact: The CNF also has an additional staking location as compared to traditional mil spec castle nuts so that regardless of the castle nut’s orientation on the receiver extension once it is torqued down you are guaranteed to have 2 easily accessible spots in which to stake it.
Thank you for this video. I wish you would have demonstrated taking one off and putting it back on. I would like to see how you stake the nut and even more important how you unstake a nut. Thank you for all that you do.
I use LWRC’s ambi QD end plate which doesn’t allow for any staking. In place of the staking, it has two set screws which hold, at least as good as staking, if not slightly better. When I don’t use those I’d use PWS ratcheting castle nut.
Strike industries doing it is a sign that it’s a bad idea. They are chinesium junk. If you aren’t going to use something of better quality than mil spec, just use mil spec.
@@banditone00 used LWRC’s for years and never had one come loose. Don’t think I’d trust strike industries. They make parts for the gram or annual range plinkers. Any hard use they’ll eventually fail.
I like more room to displace metal into. But I also like a drop of locktight AND my castle nut staked in a minimum of three locations. Had a gun self dissaseble on me, coke cans lived that day: but lesson learned.
If neither one comes loose, neither is better. Staying properly torqued is the only measure; you can't achieve anything higher than that, assuming identical materials. Unless by "better" you mean easier to install, in which case the ratcheting castle nut obviously wins, since it requires no staking.
Do you have a favorite set of take down pins? Not joking. Bought an LMT lower and would love a breakdown on what lower parts will take it to the next level that the price tag demands lol
I really like the Battle Arms Development enhanced pins. They dont stick out much at all and makes it easier to push them out if you have a tight setup. I hate having to use a tool to push the pin out just to have to do it again because I cant get my finger on the end to pull them out. I have them on 2 right now, I have a set of I think cmt millspec ones on another that are inbetween the bad and a true milspec which is almost flush with the receiver. they aint bad but the bad ones are great and dont cost a lot, I think I got the wrong spring in the takedown hole when I was swaping parts around because its almost too easy now
OK, I'll give you this... it is a NICE castle nut. Paired with their end plate with the nitride finish, it's a great combination. HOWEVER, my favorite is actually the Strike Industries Enhanced Castle Nut & Extended End Plate. setup. It looks cooler, and it works really well. Yeah you do lose the first position for the stock, but I NEVER use the first position. You do not need to stake it when it's torqued correctly. but basically, It just looks better. NOW... if I want a better quality basic looking setup, I'd buy this one.
I have to plead ignorance here, but wouldn't using a couple drops of non-permanent Loctite™be - if not better - at least an alternative method in case the buffertube must be removed for some reason? I like the presentation of and information on the new product, so, thanks!
Even the most aggressive of stake jobs can be undone with relative ease. Staking a castle nut isn't pinning and welding it... lol. But yeah, it'd get marred up and you'd probably want to have another on had to keep things looking good. awfule pricey to be doing this too often I guess.
Towards the end of this video I was thinking to myself "I wonder what SOTAR's opinion is on this?" and I scroll down and see you here. Very cool and thanks for all the fantastic videos and information you make available to everyone.
This castle nut sucks. They claim you can move more metal into the cuts but it's very shallow, I switched it out to a BCM that has a way better staking cut outs.
I sure hope you're backing up all your videos on Rumble and possibly even another video platform. Have seen A LOT of good folks I follow ruined recently. I'm sure it's annoying to hear folks mention alt platforms but I value your videos more than the annoyance it may cause my friends lol.
@@brownells Hey that's awesome to learn thank you for sharing that... I am a failed customer since I didn't know that already 😂. Is there a link on the main website, I'm assuming you'd get a ding for posting that to YT as other content creators have especially recently 😠. I'll have to look for it good on you, and thank you guys for gettin ahead of this 🐂💩 lol.
@@SSAe2 Two spots are referenced in Colt's technical manual. Typically, the nut aligns with only 2 possible staking choices. The 3rd spot usually falls somewhere along the flat part of the end plate, where plate material cannot effectively be moved into the notch. I've never seen a castle nut staked using all 3 spots. The 3rd notch is there to ensure at least 2 notches fall along the curved part of the end plate once the nut is torqued properly, thereby ensuring at least 2 staking spots are available.
Caleb, it would be pretty cool if you guys gave away the products you are reviewing to a random person in the comments. Every video would be a potential new giveaway! Sound good ? 👍
YES its always better to have kool stuff and to let everyone know!! bahahahaha......"remember darling....its better to look good then to feel good!"...Billy Crystal
I once received a castle nut as part of an Aero lower parts kit that didn't have the cutouts for staking, no set screws, nothing. Every other Aero castle nut I've had since did have the cuts for staking. What was that about?
PWS is pretty shitty. Fortis K2 and Strike are also crap. I've seen them all fail multiple times. Also if you pair the fcd with their tube you have class 3a/b threads
Im a fan of that PWS ratcheting one
In 8 years of service and 20 years since.. I've never once seen or heard of a mil spec castle nut failing.
This is an answer to a question nobody is asking!
Failing or coming unscrewed? They're not the same thing.
@@blueeyeddevil1
They were staked always, they never came loose.
@@thefrogking481 My point is that a castle nut "failing" is not the same as a castle nut coming loose. Failure means the steel yields, breaks, or otherwise permanently deforms. I, too, have never heard or seen a castle nut fail; I have, however, heard and seen a castle nut come loose.
@superego fees.
Wouldn't it basically be the same?
Coming loose is by definition a failure to properly install.
Therefore, a failure.
Just a definition of terms I guess.
You must be a POG cause I’ve seen it
Yup, always stake. I really like the PWS ratcheting castle nuts and use those from time to time as well.
PWS is my go to.
Plus you get the qd mount❤
All other improvements aside, consistently maintaining class 3 threads is an incredible boon in a world filled with cheap parts.
I believe that the PWS ratcheting castle nut is one of the best overall castle nut designs/products.
PWS ratcheting castle nut has been my go to and man no issues on it ever
I need to make sure all the fly honeys know I'm using a premium castle nut on my AR.
It is the absolute coolest, greatest, and best castle nut because the manufacturer paid me to say that!
Nope, they had no idea we were making this video until it was released.
Thanks Caleb. That sounds like another Smythbusters topic! “Manufacturers pay us to say very good things about their products”
It is the best castle nut.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle just for the class 3 threads? Or reasons besides? I know I've seen you briefly cover/advocate for class 3 threads in a video but I couldn't pick the video out if I tried. Do you mind refreshing me?
Primary Weapons Systems "ratcheting" castle nut is my go to
same
I have their extended castle nut for the Vltor A5 system. Looks great. Almost completely covers the gap when the stock is collapsed.
Fun fact: The CNF also has an additional staking location as compared to traditional mil spec castle nuts so that regardless of the castle nut’s orientation on the receiver extension once it is torqued down you are guaranteed to have 2 easily accessible spots in which to stake it.
Find someone who looks at you the way Caleb looks at this castle nut.
I have the CNF on everything. I also use the longer a5 version.
Didn’t even know I needed this but I do 😂
No issues running the pws ratcheting castle nut for the last few years.
PWS ratcheting for the win.
Thank you for this video.
I wish you would have demonstrated taking one off and putting it back on. I would like to see how you stake the nut and even more important how you unstake a nut.
Thank you for all that you do.
All of that information can be found in the build series featured on our website, check it out!
@Brownells, Inc. Thanks for mentioning. I didn't even know you had a build series.
I’m all about the PWS ratcheting nut. Sorry forward control
That castle nut makes that forward assist look hot 🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I use LWRC’s ambi QD end plate which doesn’t allow for any staking. In place of the staking, it has two set screws which hold, at least as good as staking, if not slightly better. When I don’t use those I’d use PWS ratcheting castle nut.
Strike Industries does the same thing with one of their endplate/castle nut combos.
Strike industries doing it is a sign that it’s a bad idea. They are chinesium junk. If you aren’t going to use something of better quality than mil spec, just use mil spec.
@@banditone00 used LWRC’s for years and never had one come loose. Don’t think I’d trust strike industries. They make parts for the gram or annual range plinkers. Any hard use they’ll eventually fail.
@@KendrasEdge757 people talk a lot of trash about SI, but that apparently doesn't stop higher-end manufacturers from copying their homework.
@@Pyreleaf that doesn’t mean Strike Industrys products are well made.
I like more room to displace metal into. But I also like a drop of locktight AND my castle nut staked in a minimum of three locations. Had a gun self dissaseble on me, coke cans lived that day: but lesson learned.
The most important thing you forgot to mention and I can attest to it having 7 of them. All 7 have class 3 threads
I'd like your opinion on whether the "ratcheting" castle nut is better than the standard (even one made by Forward Controls.)
I would as well. Thanks for asking as I have installed the ratcheting one on my rifle and truly like this option.
This over the crap ratcheting castle nuts. They suck.
If neither one comes loose, neither is better. Staying properly torqued is the only measure; you can't achieve anything higher than that, assuming identical materials. Unless by "better" you mean easier to install, in which case the ratcheting castle nut obviously wins, since it requires no staking.
Fortis K2 Castle Nut is by far the absolute best.
Lol no
I like their QD endplates.
Post vids on rumble of the install!
Thanks fam
There on our new website
1:28 for maximum cool, do I mount my RMR on the dimple? Trying to impress some broooos
Roger makes some of the best stuff in the industry. #dimplegang
BTW, I'd say the esf-h with the enhanced castle nut is the best combo ever made
I need a QD end plate treated with Nitride .. Far superior metal finish, but all the QD end plates are phosphate
Do you have a favorite set of take down pins?
Not joking.
Bought an LMT lower and would love a breakdown on what lower parts will take it to the next level that the price tag demands lol
I really like the Battle Arms Development enhanced pins.
They dont stick out much at all and makes it easier to push them out if you have a tight setup.
I hate having to use a tool to push the pin out just to have to do it again because I cant get my finger on the end to pull them out.
I have them on 2 right now, I have a set of I think cmt millspec ones on another that are inbetween the bad and a true milspec which is almost flush with the receiver.
they aint bad but the bad ones are great and dont cost a lot, I think I got the wrong spring in the takedown hole when I was swaping parts around because its almost too easy now
i like the old style with the round hole in the middle.
what's better than one castle nut?
Two castle nuts.
Yes, the Forward control castle nut is the best. They are on all of my builds...
Dumb question. Why don't castle nuts and end plates come painted or coated to prevent rust?
Hey "C"...have an idea for you. Do a video on the difference between phosphate--nitide--melonite coatings...
Solid idea! We touched on it a bit in the past but it definitely deserves a dedicated video, thanks!
What stand are you using to hold that AR?
OK, I'll give you this... it is a NICE castle nut. Paired with their end plate with the nitride finish, it's a great combination. HOWEVER, my favorite is actually the Strike Industries Enhanced Castle Nut & Extended End Plate. setup. It looks cooler, and it works really well. Yeah you do lose the first position for the stock, but I NEVER use the first position. You do not need to stake it when it's torqued correctly. but basically, It just looks better.
NOW... if I want a better quality basic looking setup, I'd buy this one.
I have to plead ignorance here, but wouldn't using a couple drops of non-permanent Loctite™be - if not better - at least an alternative method in case the buffertube must be removed for some reason? I like the presentation of and information on the new product, so, thanks!
Even the most aggressive of stake jobs can be undone with relative ease. Staking a castle nut isn't pinning and welding it... lol. But yeah, it'd get marred up and you'd probably want to have another on had to keep things looking good. awfule pricey to be doing this too often I guess.
I have one castle nut that doesn't even have notches for staking
PWS is the way to go
FCD CNF is the best Castle Nut made.
No Ratcheting Castle Nuts for me.
Towards the end of this video I was thinking to myself "I wonder what SOTAR's opinion is on this?" and I scroll down and see you here. Very cool and thanks for all the fantastic videos and information you make available to everyone.
This castle nut sucks. They claim you can move more metal into the cuts but it's very shallow, I switched it out to a BCM that has a way better staking cut outs.
I sure hope you're backing up all your videos on Rumble and possibly even another video platform. Have seen A LOT of good folks I follow ruined recently. I'm sure it's annoying to hear folks mention alt platforms but I value your videos more than the annoyance it may cause my friends lol.
We have a new content focus webpage where all our content is. (including the stuff we cant post on YT)
@@brownells Hey that's awesome to learn thank you for sharing that... I am a failed customer since I didn't know that already 😂. Is there a link on the main website, I'm assuming you'd get a ding for posting that to YT as other content creators have especially recently 😠. I'll have to look for it good on you, and thank you guys for gettin ahead of this 🐂💩 lol.
Can you stake a nitrided part? I thought the material behaved differently with nitride, becoming brittle.
It's technically a surface treatment and stakes just fine for that reason. We've staked countless CNF with no issues.
Caleb where can I get that stand?
Where is the Brownells Rumble channel?
Best start migrating now or face the consequences.
We have a new content focus webpage where all our content is. (including the stuff we cant post on YT)
Caleb, and all Homies use this Castle Nut. Don't be a yesterday Castle Nut user, be Cool. Be in the hood, with Caleb. We Bad !
People are still staking their castle nuts when PWS and Strike Industries are doing their thing?
If it wasn't 4 cool factor, we would not be having so much fun.......LOL
Never have staked a castle nut.
Staking is mil-spec and there's literally no reason not to do it other than pure laziness. I hope you don't build ARs
@gG9XFrx4M I've built 2. The first was with a buddy that was in the military. He never said anything about staking the castle nut.
Do you use one spot or more for staking?
Use all three
@@SSAe2 Two spots are referenced in Colt's technical manual. Typically, the nut aligns with only 2 possible staking choices. The 3rd spot usually falls somewhere along the flat part of the end plate, where plate material cannot effectively be moved into the notch. I've never seen a castle nut staked using all 3 spots. The 3rd notch is there to ensure at least 2 notches fall along the curved part of the end plate once the nut is torqued properly, thereby ensuring at least 2 staking spots are available.
@@blueeyeddevil1 this isn’t a colt bro. It’s FCD CNF. These are designed for three and all are accessible to stake.
@@SSAe2 Ah, fair enough. I was referring to mil-spec.
@@blueeyeddevil1 you are correct for mil-spec
I thought King Charles was the Castle Nut?
I’ve yet to see a rusted castle nit on a gun that wasn’t neglected. A little bit of oil goes a long way with phosphate.
Caleb, it would be pretty cool if you guys gave away the products you are reviewing to a random person in the comments.
Every video would be a potential new giveaway!
Sound good ? 👍
Imagine having a favorite castle nut.
Imagine not having one...
@@CalebSavant😂
Currently out of stock 2/25/23
Yep...
got to have cool nuts
PWS Ratchet lock system is cooler. Prove me wrong.
Caleb! Where the 🥩?!
YES its always better to have kool stuff and to let everyone know!! bahahahaha......"remember darling....its better to look good then to feel good!"...Billy Crystal
PWS ratcheting castle nut.
I once received a castle nut as part of an Aero lower parts kit that didn't have the cutouts for staking, no set screws, nothing. Every other Aero castle nut I've had since did have the cuts for staking. What was that about?
Could have been a manufacturing error, you would want to talk to aero about that.
You guys are paying $20 for a castle nut???
With class 3 threads, absolutely..
Halsey's headed straight for the "Castle Nut".
Damn, time to trash all my AR15s again.
Im a fan of the ratcheting castle nut systems
Every PWS one I have used has lost tension. They don’t ratchet at all, they deform a pawl that loses tension when you tighten it the first time.
pws ratchet supremacy
Yup. Pws rachet or bust
PWS is pretty shitty. Fortis K2 and Strike are also crap. I've seen them all fail multiple times.
Also if you pair the fcd with their tube you have class 3a/b threads
🦆 🦆🦆
Rather have a PWS castle nut
And I bet your company sells them.
Yes, we do.
FCD has the best castle nut and the best buffer tube in the world
Nah, BCM you can make way better stakes. This castle has a very shallow angle to move the metal into. It's the opposite of what they claim.
Painful to watch Caleb shill for a product he has no interest in. My guess is it was "in the contract".
Not shilling, I genuinely like the product. FCD had no idea I was making this video until it was released. Take your drama elsewhere.
PWS > FCD.
really....?
i disagree with staking. a drop of loctite works great and you aren't marring anything up. Only thing I stake is the gas key.
😂😂😂😂😂
It's all personal preference. I like Radian so use their's.
Hey you see that guy on range 9 down there? Ya why? What you didn't notice his castle nut? Omg , is that a forward controls ? Yep. Bro!! I know right.