A Big Thank You,to good folks such as you.I"ve been fighting a losing battle for 3 days until I watched your how-to-video about disabling fuel solenoid by grinding that little shut-off rod.Works like a champ.Once again Thank You,Brother. Sincerely, Ole Mike! ( Up and Running ) :)
Thank you for this. My j d stopped running while o was plowing the driveway. After your repair, I was able to finish and help my neighbor. I ordered the new part. Word for the diy. Keep an eye out for the washer, it goes between the “cup” amd solenoid.
Well I'm happy as a buzzard on a gut wagon!!! Went through whole no start process and the plunger was sticking, new carb assembly has maybe 10hrs. Runs like new now...THANK YOU!
@@LonniesGarage I tell ya I can put together a 500hp old school small block and tune it, these small engines will throw ya a curve. My Harley has a petcock, but also a side draft. Doesn't need to be used Everytime but it's there. Line on my Briggs from pump runs 6" below the fuel inlet, I wouldn't think it would syphon fuel but petcocks aren't over $80+, close it and its all good for few dollars.
Yes sir! Was ready to spray starting fulid in carb and hold governor wide open until it blew up but luckily I seen your video cut them stem low as the threads with cutting pliers and BAM! First turn of the motor and she had been holding a steady tune. Me and My Briggs and Stratton 15.5 hp thanks you.
Lonnie, today 8/7/20 I solved my issue thanks to your video. My Troy Bilt Pony with a B&S 17.5 HP would run for about 5 minutes and then die. I tried all of the most obvious steps and nothing but I always suspected the engine to somehow be suddenly starved of fuel (wasn't the cap, wasn't the lines. new fuel filter, clean carb) so I removed this solenoid and clipped the rubber tip with pliers. Now the thing runs great and doesn't shut down. I'll go get a fuel shut-off valve from the autoparts store tomorrow. Thanks again.
Can't believe this was the problem. I removed the solenoid and it worked properly in my hand so I didn't want to cut it. Instead I found a float bowl bolt with gasket from a club car golf cart and it plugged the solenoid hole perfectly 😂 it runs like new 😂 zip tied the wires to the intake manifold, off and mowing. ❤
So do you leave the wire that connects to the solenoid off?just wondering because everything has a safety switch on top of a safety switch these days and thought maybe the mower won't start if it's not connected to anything.great video!
Very helpful video. You gave me the confidence to forge ahead and try the "disable the fuel solenoid fix," and it worked. Saved ~$250 (including mower pick-up and labor / parts) on our 2005 John Deere LT 180 (Kawasaki motor) and learned some things for future use; thanks much!
DUDE, this works great. This part was 50 bucks for my rider and I could not get this thing to start. I was down and out and ready to give up. I ran across your video and said, I will give it a try. 5 Minutes later the damn thing started right up. Thank you so much for posting this and saving me money and frustration...
great video! i was tearing my hair out with my B&S riding mower that wasn't starting. i spent a lot of time trying to figure the problem out and then bumped in to this video. as per video, disabled solenoid and my engine starts perfectly now. saved a lot of money...
Me too!!! Went through whole process of elimination 2hrs ago then checked selonoid, it was Hot but clicked. Dark now, I'll try that tomorrow. New plug seems too dry after trying to start numerous times.
I stuck a built 30 hp Kohler on a 1960 Bolens. I use it to plow snow. The motor was so large on such a small frame it made me put the gas tank on the front and the battery on the back where the hitch goes. The wiring was a nightmare but I got it down to 3 toggle switches and a push start. They wanted 118$ for the fuel solenoid. I almost tore the motor off and swap out with an 18 Briggs. My Fuel solenoid looked way different then what you showed. However it gave me the basics and 10 minutes later the tractor fired right up. Thanks dude.
My McCullogh ride-on with 17.5 HP Briggs & Stratton started playing up end of last summer, cutting out randomly for no apparent reason. I began troubleshooting, changing the plug, cleaning and fitting a carbie kit, changing the magneto, checking the safety switches, new fuel and fuel cap etc. This summer was no different, after 3 or 4 minutes running it cut out and I was pulling my hair out. There seemed to be excessive crank case pressure, oil blowing out of the filler cap so I fitted a new head gasket, lapped in the valves, checked the clearances, booted her up and hell!! No different. Now I was really frustrated. I checked the crankcase breather which meant pulling off the flywheel but it was as clean as. Browsing the internet I came across so many suggestions all of which I had tried. Then I saw this. Nah, too simple, can't possibly be the problem, won't work. IT DID.
phil I'm having the same problem with my wacker roller it has the v twin robin engine eh65 22 hp.Starts great runs great for 5 minutes then starts to lope then it shuts down .Wait 10 minutes then starts up again .Do u think i have the same problem.And we rebuilt the entire engine
@@jrac863 Thing is Jay, it's such an easy fix which would have saved me much time and money, I don't know why they fit them in the first place as my machine has run ever since without any flooding problem at all. At least I got an overhauled engine out of it but could have done without the angst. Good luck with it.
Thanks! My Cub Cadet had stopped while mowing. Per this video, I removed the fuel solenoid from the bottom of the carburetor bowl, put it in a vise and hacksawed the plug thing off. There was a burr, so I hit it on the grinder for 1 second or less. Re-assembled it, then it ran like before. Oh yeah, I did clamp off the fuel line before starting the operation.
Thank you for this video. Will the mower overheat by disabling the shutoff? Why the heck do they put this part in if it's not needed. In Canada, the John deere part is $250.
My JD 345 would only try and stay running in the shop if I kept sockin the choke to it because it was starving for fuel. I pulled the carb and sure enough the pilot jet was plugged so I was confident I found the issue. Still wouldn’t stay running so I was ready to pull fuel lines until I watched this video. What do I have to lose. Held my finger over the solenoid hole in carb while my side cutters nipped the plunger off and sure as shit she fired right up. She’s running like a rockstar so Thank you very much for sharing.
Hi Lonnie. Thank you for posting this video. I put on a new coil, wouldn't start, put new fuel lines in and wouldn't start. watched your video and took your advice, she started! It is running like the timing is off a little. does the new coil and where I had the magnet aligned make any difference? I have a new carb coming so this just helped me know that it will start! maybe the new carb will fix the rough running? Thanks again Lonnie
Thanks for the information. But I don't see how that stops fuel from getting to the carburetor. I thought the float, and needle and seat control fuel interning into the carburetor and controlling fuel level. I understand that the fuel solenoid stop's fuel getting to the main jet when you turn off your ignition switch. I also see you grinding off the needle plunger if you have a electrical problem or bad fuel solenoid winding. But I thank you for the information.
Thanks.....x 300 is back running....I was struggling...Great video that saved me time, money and headache!!…...This has been the trouble with this piece of crap all along !!…..More folks need to know about this !!!.....Thank you for sharing
I'm certain my solonoid is good, but I'm not getting it to actuate via turning the key. Either the ignition switch is bad at that connection or it's something beyond my understanding. I may bypass it using this method it it'd be nice to get it function. It's a brand new carb and the tractor quit one day. The solonoid plunger wasn't actuating/retracting with they key. Tested the solonoid and its good. It's a wiring issue
hi, thanks for vid, inherited this mower and of course this was the problem, However the throttle must stay at Full Rabbit speed or it will die....is this a related problem or possibly carb just needs to be adjusted now,,, TIA..!
Just a thought, you may want to install a fuel cutoff valve for the tank just in case your needle and seat for your float is not working properly to keep from filling the crankcase with gas. Just as a precaution.
Do you do this if your fuel solenoid fails to avoid replacing it, or just do it before any issues? I've had my Husqvarna 11 year's with no problem's. Thanks
I replaced the stock carb on my kohler courage 22 because the original carb had a fuel solenoid problem and it was the same price for a new carb. I just took apart my aftermarket carb that is marked AE power because it was acting the same way. Would run if I put fuel in the carb and then quit. It has a new fuel pump which is working. When I took the solenoid off I found that the pin and magnet were a separate piece inside the solenoid body and slid right out. I'm just going to put it back together without the pin and leave the solenoid coil unplugged. It is almost like it was made to do this. Strange.
Hi, I know you posted this a long time ago. My b-s arians 17.5 lawn tractor is sputtering and stalling. I changed the gas. When I take the air filter off and put my hand over the hole I can keep the motor running. Will cutting off that solenoid shaft help.
Put a turn-off switch on the fuel line and cut the gas off before turning off the switch. Let the motor die from lack of fuel, and it will not backfire.
do you typically add a in line shut off after doing a modification like this, even though your needle/seat/float combo keeps fuel or should at the correct level?
G'day mate. I had same problem with the fuel solenoid on my Husqcana ride-on mower and was able to get it working perfectly by removing the rubber tip (the part that actually seals and shuts off the fuel) of the solenoid and replacing it again. My question is... can I leave it like this forever? Should I install a seperate manual shutoff valev? Is there any real need to have the fuel off when not using the mower? Maybe I am missing something as engines are not my forte' lol.
I hooked wire back up to mine after doing as you showed, started then died. Fuse blown somewhere. Do I need the wire hook up? Craftsman Pro 900 B&S 24hp engine?
Sweet. So I could I go as far to unplug the other end of the solenoid wire and use a regular carb nut to screw the bowl on? Then throw the solenoid/nut/wire thing away?
Did this yesterday after replacing several other parts to no avail. Then I snipped off the plunger and BINGO. Started up and I mowed til dark. However, it wants to flood out/die when I put it in reverse. It's never done this before. Deere L110. What happened?
So how do you know if this is the issue? Have a B&S 20hp on an ariens. Runs for 15 to 20 min. Then dies and won't start. I know it could be vapor lock caused by the fuel cap or the coil being bad but how do I eliminate this as a possibility?
Mine starts and runs fine, but starts to kill after only a few minutes of mowing. If I ride with the hood up and tap the cabr or soleniod with the handle of a screw driver, when it starts to die, it perks up and runs again for a few minutes. Then the whole cycle repeats. Do you think my solenoid is failing, or maybe an electrical fault, or carb float sticking?
I change out new magneto with old one it started right up the black wire is for killing the motor I love looking at u tube and talking to all of yall .and tkx you for ur time.
If its stuck in the up position, will it cause problems starting a mower? My mower is hard to start. My solenoid doesnt click or make a sound. I understand it cuts fuel off when turning engine off but im wondering if mine is harder to start because the plunger doesn't retract when the ignition is turned on.
Desperate for answers, I really hope you see this. Lx255 runs until hot then wants to die, I can limp it back to my trailer by fluctuating choke. Starts again next day to do the same over again, what gives? I’m at my wits end. Thank you in advance!
@@LonniesGarage wow, thank you so much for seeing this right away. could it be electrical even knowing that I need to use choke to keep it running? I did suspect the coil or the fuel solenoid, but the choke part of the equation has me stumped
After I grind it off, do I even have to plug the electrical connection back in ? Can I just leave it unplugged or will it cause some kind of short if not plugged back up.
I put a new carburetor on my Toro z4200 and the solenoid its getting very hot when I turn the key on and it won't start I've mowed with it twice before then but now it won't start and you can hear the solenoid click on but it gets so hot you can't even touch it! What would be the cause of that?
SIR, I have a Troy Bilt and it doesn't want to start and gasoline get to my motor oil. It was working great on y j.g e summer, I have a cut off valve in the gas line. Any advice will be appreciated.
my john deere will not turn over. 172 lx... it has plenty of spark but will just turn and turn and not turn over. i did what the video showed and cut that piece off and still nothing.. i have checked and am getting fuel to carburetor. i am lost.. please help
I have 2 ridding mowers that after hot slowly feel like they are starving for fuel. If I pull the choke they will idle up but eventually die. I this this may be my problem. Thank you for the information.
honestly i might follow this to disable the solenoid on my craftsman riding mower as it is really messing with the carburetor and making the engine run poorly. i really dont know why these kinds of things are installed as it tends to create more problems than it solves.
I have a Huskee LT4200 (from Tractor Supply) riding mower with the Powermore Chinese engine. After mowing just a few feet, it dies when the blades are engaged. If I disengage the blades, it will start back up and keep running. Engage the blades again and it dies again after a few feet. This all starts after it warms up for about a minute. I replace plug, gas filter, air filter and blades and still have the problem. I'm wondering if it's the gas solenoid causing the problem and if I can just unhook it and tape the wire ends.
Unhooking it will not let the fuel through. Will it stay running for a long time without turning the blades on? If it dies after the motor warms up with the blades on or off then it sounds like u have a bad coil
Yeah, I tried disabling the solenoid and it wouldn't start at all. It will stay running with the blades off but dies right after engaging the blades. You're probably right, the coil is about the only thing left it could be. Fortunately I got ahold of the area's authorized repair center for this mower and they said they can take care of it. Will be calling them tomorrow. Thanks.
I have a craftsman 19 hp mower. How in the world do you get the selenoid oit to begin with, the bottom of my selenoid turns around and around, if it unscrews, what do you grab??
@@LonniesGarage Hmmm, the bottom half just turns round and round, so I took like a 12mm wrench and out it above the fat part and turn it round and round and still nothing happened. What make me angry, I called sears, they sold me a new one for 65 bucks but could not tell me how to take it out, not even a technician!!!
On my 2017 17.5HP Briggs Troybilt pony, I was able to take a pair of pliers and pull the stem out of the solenoid, then leave the wire unhooked. Fired right up. Had me worried, my solenoid went up in a plume of smoke and melted the plastic on the side of it. I thought it was going to catch fire, there was that much smoke...
@@allensmith342 It had the melt down when it was connected... I said I had to disconnect it. Burning stopped. Like any child hooked it back up, started burning again, disconnected it permanently, then removed the plunger... Works like a charm for the last 2 seasons. I did put a cut off valve on the fuel line to cut the fuel off when it is sitting parked...
@@kramnull8962 Glad you got it going. I took my carb off thinking it could be the solenoid. The bowl is so corroded it'd be a waste of time and money to rebuild. Looks like I'll be buying a new one.
Thanks bro save me 3-4 paying someone to fix it. I just ground off tip with bench grinder.Plus save a few hundred in not paying someone else cutting my yard...God Bless
What if ive changed the filter n the fuel pump i took the fuel sellinoid off checked it it clicks up n down but still not wantn to run it wont run but maybe 2 minutes if i blow air in the tank then run long enough until carb runs out of gas could the fuel sellinoid still be bad even if it clicks up and down when u turn the key switch off n on
Can you do a video on how you manicure your hands? Your nails are so pretty and clean! Are you a really a mechanic. (You can also pull the spring and plunger out without cutting it) disabling the solonoid. Your engine might not shut off emmediately when you turn it off.
Thanks Lonnie G for your info, i done just what you said with the new shutoff valve and i cut off a piece of the plunger on the solenoid, the mower is working just fine.
Yes, my craftsman gt 3000 23hp twin cylinder kohler shut down, it was the fuel shut off solenoid went bad while cutting grass. Cut the top off re install and back up and running.
On my Vanguard, it started failing intermittently when the engine got good and hot. It was very frustrating and took about half the summer to figure out what was happening. I since learned this solenoid is a safety feature that eliminates "afterfire", or fuel being pulled through the engine and igniting in the hot muffler when you shut off the mower. Doing the work-around is fine, but be aware that you could be increasing your fire risk. Be careful shutting a hot engine off inside a building. Be sure you idle down for a bit before shutting down.
True about the idle down part but for years we had mowers without this part and they worked great. Someone with a pencil thought hey let's add more crap. Probably never has messed with a mower before.
Interesting comments...so I shall add my two cents.....my Afterfire solenoid went bad about ten years ago and I had a horrible backfire when shutting it off....went to get another one and was advised to shorten the shaft by cutting it in half instead of spending the $75 dollars for a new one. Since then the backfire on shutoff is gone....and I have no gas leaking through the carb....I have to agree....another part put on the carb that was never needed.
your past issue describes my problem. Only backfires after engine is turned off. Everyone is talking about a fuel shut off valve....where would you install it..../ Any ideas ....thank you
I have an in-line shutoff valve and I performed this very fix a week ago. The mower ran fine on that day. Now it won't fire up at all, and I'm pretty sure it's flooding. Any ideas?
Checked, it definitely isn't. I can disconnect the fuel line with the shutoff closed and no leaks at all. Not sure now if it is flooding or if there's a blockage in the carb. Checked to make sure the HT lead is working with a spark gap test device, but I guess the spark plug may be fouled - it was wet with gasoline when i removed it.
How do I check that? I removed the bowl and the float seems to move freely but I can't see how to take any more of it off without removing the entire carb, which I'd like to avoid if possible.
When i turn my key this selonoid clicks, i pulled it out and when i ground it i watch it go up and down. If its bad can it still move? And also my mower does not try to crank over at all it only clicks right at this selonoid.
I’m going to try this on a Cub Cadet I just acquired a few days ago the solenoid is dead but I can get it to turn over and attempt to run for about 4 seconds
All that is fine,my Craftsman 42" did it ,so I took out the silonoid and replaced it with a short bolt and rubber o ring ,then cut my fuel line and installed a fuel cut off ,if you don't it'll flood the mower
Adjust your floats in the float bowl. Your carb should not be flooding. It works just like the float in your toilet bowl that shuts the water off so the tank does not overfill.
I had an older riding Craftsman. Someone gave it to me. It didn't have this switch. Shortly after I got it, it dumped the gas in the tank onto the ground. I knew what the problem was, ad I am old motorcyclist. Ordered a new needle and seat from the mainland USA, as we live near Hilo Hawaii. Replaced those parts and got another 7-8 years out of that ancient Craftsman. Now I have a Poulan Pro rider, and it up and quite after a few years. I believe it is this switch. Ordered one from China and an waiting for it. I tried bench testing the old switch, and the plunger won't plunge with current.
Thanks Lonnie, I'll try this when I get home from work. I just paid $95.00 to John Deer for a new Solenoid. Before I take it out of the plastic bagging, I'll do this. If it works you just saved me a bundle. I agree Horsepower garage, it's just more crap to make more money, and they never had them before recently when they learned the vast majority of people are uneducated fools you can sell anything to.
If you just install a simple in-line fuel shutoff valve between the tank and the carburetor, you wouldn't need a fuel solenoid. Mowers and engines have run fine for decades without them. I've got a John Deere Sabre rider that I use without a battery or starter solenoid and jump start with cables directly at the starter. Once the motor's running, the fuel solenoid circuit is energized through induction.
All the solenoid does is plug the main jet when the key is off, it does not keep fuel from entering the carb, that is the job of the float and needle. The fuel cutoff solenoid is not needed and was not even put on carbs until recently.
The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid is backup in case the needle sticks and fuel fills the carb and enters the engine, diluting the oil. It is needed and important.
I have a 1992 craftsman riding mower with a 12.5hp briggs flat head, it never had a carb rebuild and doesn't have the solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor. The engine has never flooded, never leaked gas into the oil, and it still runs better than my 2007 craftsman which has the solenoid on the carb. If you take care of your machines it would never become a problem in the first place. If I'm not mistaken it does regulate the amount of fuel usage when its running, which is an EPA regulation placed on small engine manufactures.
This works but fuel can fill you cylinder with fuel, good temporary fix but I suggest installing a fuel line shut off. Also idle the engine down and wait a sec or so before shutting it down.
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I've replaced 2 fuel solenoids on my JD e110, my 3rd one just burned out. This worked perfectly and saved me another visit to the mechanic. THANK YOU!
A Big Thank You,to good folks such as you.I"ve been fighting a losing battle for 3 days until I watched your how-to-video about disabling fuel solenoid by grinding that little shut-off rod.Works like a champ.Once again Thank You,Brother. Sincerely, Ole Mike! ( Up and Running ) :)
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Thank you for this. My j d stopped running while o was plowing the driveway. After your repair, I was able to finish and help my neighbor.
I ordered the new part. Word for the diy. Keep an eye out for the washer, it goes between the “cup” amd solenoid.
Well I'm happy as a buzzard on a gut wagon!!! Went through whole no start process and the plunger was sticking, new carb assembly has maybe 10hrs. Runs like new now...THANK YOU!
Good deal. Your welcome
@@LonniesGarage I tell ya I can put together a 500hp old school small block and tune it, these small engines will throw ya a curve. My Harley has a petcock, but also a side draft. Doesn't need to be used Everytime but it's there. Line on my Briggs from pump runs 6" below the fuel inlet, I wouldn't think it would syphon fuel but petcocks aren't over $80+, close it and its all good for few dollars.
I did this fix on a Murray Tractor today. Fired right up! Can't thank you enough. Saved me time and money.
Yes sir! Was ready to spray starting fulid in carb and hold governor wide open until it blew up but luckily I seen your video cut them stem low as the threads with cutting pliers and BAM! First turn of the motor and she had been holding a steady tune. Me and My Briggs and Stratton 15.5 hp thanks you.
Glad this helped you.
Lonnie, today 8/7/20 I solved my issue thanks to your video. My Troy Bilt Pony with a B&S 17.5 HP would run for about 5 minutes and then die. I tried all of the most obvious steps and nothing but I always suspected the engine to somehow be suddenly starved of fuel (wasn't the cap, wasn't the lines. new fuel filter, clean carb) so I removed this solenoid and clipped the rubber tip with pliers. Now the thing runs great and doesn't shut down. I'll go get a fuel shut-off valve from the autoparts store tomorrow. Thanks again.
Good deal happy u got it figured out.
Can't believe this was the problem. I removed the solenoid and it worked properly in my hand so I didn't want to cut it. Instead I found a float bowl bolt with gasket from a club car golf cart and it plugged the solenoid hole perfectly 😂 it runs like new 😂 zip tied the wires to the intake manifold, off and mowing. ❤
You saved me a lot of time, and I thank you for that sir. If you ever need any garage door advice I'm your man. THANK YOU!
Happy to see this video is still helping others
88 Whats your thoughts on my noisie double garage door am i going to have to replace the wheels?
So do you leave the wire that connects to the solenoid off?just wondering because everything has a safety switch on top of a safety switch these days and thought maybe the mower won't start if it's not connected to anything.great video!
It doesn’t matter.
Very helpful video. You gave me the confidence to forge ahead and try the "disable the fuel solenoid fix," and it worked. Saved ~$250 (including mower pick-up and labor / parts) on our 2005 John Deere LT 180 (Kawasaki motor) and learned some things for future use; thanks much!
DUDE, this works great. This part was 50 bucks for my rider and I could not get this thing to start. I was down and out and ready to give up. I ran across your video and said, I will give it a try. 5 Minutes later the damn thing started right up. Thank you so much for posting this and saving me money and frustration...
Thanks for watching I'm happy that it helped you out also don't forget to put a fuel shut off on the fuel line that goes to your carb
great video! i was tearing my hair out with my B&S riding mower that wasn't starting. i spent a lot of time trying to figure the problem out and then bumped in to this video. as per video, disabled solenoid and my engine starts perfectly now. saved a lot of money...
David G glad it helped you
Thank you!! Riding mower started immediately after doing this thanks to your video. I really appreciate this!!!!
I tried everything to get my mower running, watched your video and tried it, it took minutes and the it started right up, thank you so much
Happy it helped. God bless
Me too!!! Went through whole process of elimination 2hrs ago then checked selonoid, it was Hot but clicked. Dark now, I'll try that tomorrow. New plug seems too dry after trying to start numerous times.
Saved me a bunch... mine had a plastic piece on the end. Broke it off and I can now mow my lawn! Thanks!!!
Steve did your engine turn over and just not fire or not turn over at all?
thank you so much this helped me with my craftsman's it had an ignition issue just snipped that piece off and haven't had problems since.
Good deal. Happy it helped.
I stuck a built 30 hp Kohler on a 1960 Bolens. I use it to plow snow. The motor was so large on such a small frame it made me put the gas tank on the front and the battery on the back where the hitch goes. The wiring was a nightmare but I got it down to 3 toggle switches and a push start. They wanted 118$ for the fuel solenoid. I almost tore the motor off and swap out with an 18 Briggs. My Fuel solenoid looked way different then what you showed. However it gave me the basics and 10 minutes later the tractor fired right up. Thanks dude.
My McCullogh ride-on with 17.5 HP Briggs & Stratton started playing up end of last summer, cutting out randomly for no apparent reason. I began troubleshooting, changing the plug, cleaning and fitting a carbie kit, changing the magneto, checking the safety switches, new fuel and fuel cap etc. This summer was no different, after 3 or 4 minutes running it cut out and I was pulling my hair out. There seemed to be excessive crank case pressure, oil blowing out of the filler cap so I fitted a new head gasket, lapped in the valves, checked the clearances, booted her up and hell!! No different. Now I was really frustrated. I checked the crankcase breather which meant pulling off the flywheel but it was as clean as. Browsing the internet I came across so many suggestions all of which I had tried. Then I saw this. Nah, too simple, can't possibly be the problem, won't work. IT DID.
Damn! It would've been cheaper to buy another tractor than to go through all that trouble!
phil I'm having the same problem with my wacker roller it has the v twin robin engine eh65 22 hp.Starts great runs great for 5 minutes then starts to lope then it shuts down .Wait 10 minutes then starts up again .Do u think i have the same problem.And we rebuilt the entire engine
@@jrac863 Thing is Jay, it's such an easy fix which would have saved me
much time and money, I don't know why they fit them in the first place as my machine has run ever since without any flooding problem at all. At least I got an overhauled engine out of it but could have done without the angst. Good luck with it.
Changing y key start to a push button start with a kill switch this was most likely my last issue, great explanation 👍 👌
Thanks! My Cub Cadet had stopped while mowing. Per this video, I removed the fuel solenoid from the bottom of the carburetor bowl, put it in a vise and hacksawed the plug thing off. There was a burr, so I hit it on the grinder for 1 second or less. Re-assembled it, then it ran like before. Oh yeah, I did clamp off the fuel line before starting the operation.
Charles R Lanier Jr good deal. Glad it helped you. Please share the video.
i never grinded but I have used my wire cutters and cut them off and it works its easy and saves you money
I ground it off, reinstalled it, works perfect. Thanks
Thank you for this video. Will the mower overheat by disabling the shutoff? Why the heck do they put this part in if it's not needed. In Canada, the John deere part is $250.
No it won’t over heat. It’s there as an anti backfire device. When you turn the key off it stops the fuel immediately.
My JD 345 would only try and stay running in the shop if I kept sockin the choke to it because it was starving for fuel. I pulled the carb and sure enough the pilot jet was plugged so I was confident I found the issue. Still wouldn’t stay running so I was ready to pull fuel lines until I watched this video. What do I have to lose. Held my finger over the solenoid hole in carb while my side cutters nipped the plunger off and sure as shit she fired right up. She’s running like a rockstar so Thank you very much for sharing.
Happy that it helped you.
Hi Lonnie. Thank you for posting this video. I put on a new coil, wouldn't start, put new fuel lines in and wouldn't start. watched your video and took your advice, she started! It is running like the timing is off a little. does the new coil and where I had the magnet aligned make any difference? I have a new carb coming so this just helped me know that it will start! maybe the new carb will fix the rough
running? Thanks again Lonnie
Could have a lil trash in the carb.
Thanks for the information. But I don't see how that stops fuel from getting to the carburetor. I thought the float, and needle and seat control fuel interning into the carburetor and controlling fuel level. I understand that the fuel solenoid stop's fuel getting to the main jet when you turn off your ignition switch.
I also see you grinding off the needle plunger if you have a electrical problem or bad fuel solenoid winding.
But I thank you for the information.
Thanks.....x 300 is back running....I was struggling...Great video that saved me time, money and headache!!…...This has been the trouble with this piece of crap all along !!…..More folks need to know about this !!!.....Thank you for sharing
I'm certain my solonoid is good, but I'm not getting it to actuate via turning the key. Either the ignition switch is bad at that connection or it's something beyond my understanding. I may bypass it using this method it it'd be nice to get it function. It's a brand new carb and the tractor quit one day. The solonoid plunger wasn't actuating/retracting with they key. Tested the solonoid and its good. It's a wiring issue
hi, thanks for vid, inherited this mower and of course this was the problem, However the throttle must stay at Full Rabbit speed or it will die....is this a related problem or possibly carb just needs to be adjusted now,,, TIA..!
Maybe clean the carb and adjust it some
Just a thought, you may want to install a fuel cutoff valve for the tank just in case your needle and seat for your float is not working properly to keep from filling the crankcase with gas. Just as a precaution.
@@johnbaumgartner7731 yes I agree and I tell others to do that in the comments here but I forgot to mention it in the video.
Do you do this if your fuel solenoid fails to avoid replacing it, or just do it before any issues?
I've had my Husqvarna 11 year's with no problem's. Thanks
Do it if it fails. But if u have to do this it will need an inline fuel shut off valve
I replaced the stock carb on my kohler courage 22 because the original carb had a fuel solenoid problem and it was the same price for a new carb. I just took apart my aftermarket carb that is marked AE power because it was acting the same way. Would run if I put fuel in the carb and then quit. It has a new fuel pump which is working. When I took the solenoid off I found that the pin and magnet were a separate piece inside the solenoid body and slid right out. I'm just going to put it back together without the pin and leave the solenoid coil unplugged. It is almost like it was made to do this. Strange.
Hi,
I know you posted this a long time ago.
My b-s arians 17.5 lawn tractor is sputtering and stalling. I changed the gas.
When I take the air filter off and put my hand over the hole I can keep the motor running. Will cutting off that solenoid shaft help.
Nope you need to clean that carb really good.
Thanks for the video I cut mine off with pliers, I get backfire time to time but overall it fixed my issue.
Subscribed.
Put a turn-off switch on the fuel line and cut the gas off before turning off the switch. Let the motor die from lack of fuel, and it will not backfire.
do you typically add a in line shut off after doing a modification like this, even though your needle/seat/float combo keeps fuel or should at the correct level?
Yes because this is designed to stop the fuel from coming back into the carb once you kill it.
Thanks Bro,
Cut the rod off
Motor starred first pull
Going to add a manual shut off valve.
Keep up the good work
G'day mate. I had same problem with the fuel solenoid on my Husqcana ride-on mower and was able to get it working perfectly by removing the rubber tip (the part that actually seals and shuts off the fuel) of the solenoid and replacing it again. My question is... can I leave it like this forever? Should I install a seperate manual shutoff valev? Is there any real need to have the fuel off when not using the mower? Maybe I am missing something as engines are not my forte' lol.
Yes u will need to put a shut off on the fuel line or it will cause the carb to over flow and gasoline goes into the oil
I have a dumb question? If that rod is to keep the carb from flooding when you eliminate that rod won't it flood?
Yes that's why I tell everyone to put an inline fuel shut off
@@LonniesGarage gotcha thank you so much for responding. You got me and my family as subscribers.
Good video. Does removing this solenoid tend to all ow the engine to flood after it is turned off?? thanks.
Yes. That's why I recommend to put an inline shut off valve.
I hooked wire back up to mine after doing as you showed, started then died. Fuse blown somewhere. Do I need the wire hook up? Craftsman Pro 900 B&S 24hp engine?
You won't need the wire if u cut the tip
Thanks for the update Lonnie, I have a new carb coming Friday. I will let you know if that fix's the rough idle. Thanks
Sweet. So I could I go as far to unplug the other end of the solenoid wire and use a regular carb nut to screw the bowl on? Then throw the solenoid/nut/wire thing away?
now ur cookin with Grease!!
Did this yesterday after replacing several other parts to no avail. Then I snipped off the plunger and BINGO. Started up and I mowed til dark. However, it wants to flood out/die when I put it in reverse. It's never done this before. Deere L110. What happened?
try putting and in line fuel shut off on the fuel line going to the carb and kinda turn it about halfway
So how do you know if this is the issue? Have a B&S 20hp on an ariens. Runs for 15 to 20 min. Then dies and won't start. I know it could be vapor lock caused by the fuel cap or the coil being bad but how do I eliminate this as a possibility?
You can either cut the plunger off or put a short bolt in where the part is that has the same thread . I would change coil first
@@LonniesGarage thanks. That's what I'm thinking too.
Mine starts and runs fine, but starts to kill after only a few minutes of mowing. If I ride with the hood up and tap the cabr or soleniod with the handle of a screw driver, when it starts to die, it perks up and runs again for a few minutes. Then the whole cycle repeats. Do you think my solenoid is failing, or maybe an electrical fault, or carb float sticking?
Thomas Russell sounds like u need to clean that carb really good. Also wouldn't hurt to put a coil on it.
I change out new magneto with old one it started right up the black wire is for killing the motor I love looking at u tube and talking to all of yall .and tkx you for ur time.
No problem. Happy u got it fixed I know how the small things can drive us all crazy at times.
If its stuck in the up position, will it cause problems starting a mower? My mower is hard to start. My solenoid doesnt click or make a sound. I understand it cuts fuel off when turning engine off but im wondering if mine is harder to start because the plunger doesn't retract when the ignition is turned on.
Up is cutting off the fuel.
Desperate for answers, I really hope you see this. Lx255 runs until hot then wants to die, I can limp it back to my trailer by fluctuating choke. Starts again next day to do the same over again, what gives? I’m at my wits end. Thank you in advance!
Sounds like your coil is going bad
@@LonniesGarage wow, thank you so much for seeing this right away. could it be electrical even knowing that I need to use choke to keep it running? I did suspect the coil or the fuel solenoid, but the choke part of the equation has me stumped
After I grind it off, do I even have to plug the electrical connection back in ? Can I just leave it unplugged or will it cause some kind of short if not plugged back up.
No need to plug it back in
If you leave the tank after you grind the rod off wont it flood the crank case with fuel though?
That’s where the in line fuel shit off comes in to play
I put a new carburetor on my Toro z4200 and the solenoid its getting very hot when I turn the key on and it won't start I've mowed with it twice before then but now it won't start and you can hear the solenoid click on but it gets so hot you can't even touch it! What would be the cause of that?
THANK YOU THIS WORKED FOR MY CUB CADET LT1045
SIR, I have a Troy Bilt and it doesn't want to start and gasoline get to my motor oil. It was working great on y j.g e summer, I have a cut off valve in the gas line. Any advice will be appreciated.
Clean your carb
@@LonniesGarage
Ok.
@@LonniesGarage thanks.
Thanks for the info, 1st thing tomorrow...least I know everything else is adjusted right.
Good video Kicker! They try to do everything they can to make it impossible for people too fix there own stuff.
my john deere will not turn over. 172 lx... it has plenty of spark but will just turn and turn and not turn over. i did what the video showed and cut that piece off and still nothing.. i have checked and am getting fuel to carburetor. i am lost.. please help
I have 2 ridding mowers that after hot slowly feel like they are starving for fuel. If I pull the choke they will idle up but eventually die. I this this may be my problem. Thank you for the information.
honestly i might follow this to disable the solenoid on my craftsman riding mower as it is really messing with the carburetor and making the engine run poorly. i really dont know why these kinds of things are installed as it tends to create more problems than it solves.
Thank you sir
From 🇦🇺
I have a Huskee LT4200 (from Tractor Supply) riding mower with the Powermore Chinese engine. After mowing just a few feet, it dies when the blades are engaged. If I disengage the blades, it will start back up and keep running. Engage the blades again and it dies again after a few feet. This all starts after it warms up for about a minute. I replace plug, gas filter, air filter and blades and still have the problem. I'm wondering if it's the gas solenoid causing the problem and if I can just unhook it and tape the wire ends.
Unhooking it will not let the fuel through. Will it stay running for a long time without turning the blades on? If it dies after the motor warms up with the blades on or off then it sounds like u have a bad coil
Yeah, I tried disabling the solenoid and it wouldn't start at all. It will stay running with the blades off but dies right after engaging the blades. You're probably right, the coil is about the only thing left it could be. Fortunately I got ahold of the area's authorized repair center for this mower and they said they can take care of it. Will be calling them tomorrow. Thanks.
Thanks. I will tell my brother about this since he told me he is having trouble with the solenoid on his carburetor.
Your welcome
I have a craftsman 19 hp mower. How in the world do you get the selenoid oit to begin with, the bottom of my selenoid turns around and around, if it unscrews, what do you grab??
It will have a bolt shape at the top close to the bottom of the fuel bowl
@@LonniesGarage Hmmm, the bottom half just turns round and round, so I took like a 12mm wrench and out it above the fat part and turn it round and round and still nothing happened. What make me angry, I called sears, they sold me a new one for 65 bucks but could not tell me how to take it out, not even a technician!!!
What is happening, when gas and oil mixture is shooting out your carburetor, as you try to start it?
Could be a number of things. Check the pcv filter
Question, why can you just pull the plunger or point out and leave it out?
Thanks,,,,I did it and put shut off valve on,,,like the good old days
On my 2017 17.5HP Briggs Troybilt pony, I was able to take a pair of pliers and pull the stem out of the solenoid, then leave the wire unhooked. Fired right up. Had me worried, my solenoid went up in a plume of smoke and melted the plastic on the side of it. I thought it was going to catch fire, there was that much smoke...
If you disconnected the solenoid there's no way it could've had a meltdown.
@@allensmith342 It had the melt down when it was connected... I said I had to disconnect it. Burning stopped. Like any child hooked it back up, started burning again, disconnected it permanently, then removed the plunger... Works like a charm for the last 2 seasons. I did put a cut off valve on the fuel line to cut the fuel off when it is sitting parked...
@@kramnull8962 Glad you got it going. I took my carb off thinking it could be the solenoid. The bowl is so corroded it'd be a waste of time and money to rebuild. Looks like I'll be buying a new one.
just wondering how long it will b b4 fuel starts seeping out of the plastic
Excellent explanation...just the info I needed...many thanks
Thanks bro save me 3-4 paying someone to fix it. I just ground off tip with bench grinder.Plus save a few hundred in not paying someone else cutting my yard...God Bless
Thanks for watching. Happy it helped you
What if ive changed the filter n the fuel pump i took the fuel sellinoid off checked it it clicks up n down but still not wantn to run it wont run but maybe 2 minutes if i blow air in the tank then run long enough until carb runs out of gas could the fuel sellinoid still be bad even if it clicks up and down when u turn the key switch off n on
Either a bad fuel pump or the carb is clogged
Can you do a video on how you manicure your hands? Your nails are so pretty and clean! Are you a really a mechanic. (You can also pull the spring and plunger out without cutting it) disabling the solonoid. Your engine might not shut off emmediately when you turn it off.
No but I can show u how to remove a stupid comment
Is there a factory plug to replace the solenoid with?
Thanks Lonnie G for your info, i done just what you said with the new shutoff valve and i cut off a piece of the plunger on the solenoid, the mower is working just fine.
Would this make a intex motor backfire when you shut it off?
Do you still have to use choke after cutting the needle off the fuel solenoid?
Yes
How does it shut off the fuel? I have a pepcock for that . I thought the solenoid stopped the coil , when water got to carb bowl.
Nope it stops the fuel from going into the needle of the carb.
@@LonniesGarage thanks for the help. She sure to be Running by 10:00.
Can you just find a bolt to fit the bowl instead of grinding off the rod?
i grinded mine down about a year ago, but now it's leaking, any thoughts?
Wesley Jackson could be a gasket or o ring
will this cause it to cut off during use during use maybe mine will not start without the wires hooked up to the solenoid
Yes, my craftsman gt 3000 23hp twin cylinder kohler shut down, it was the fuel shut off solenoid went bad while cutting grass. Cut the top off re install and back up and running.
On my Vanguard, it started failing intermittently when the engine got good and hot. It was very frustrating and took about half the summer to figure out what was happening. I since learned this solenoid is a safety feature that eliminates "afterfire", or fuel being pulled through the engine and igniting in the hot muffler when you shut off the mower. Doing the work-around is fine, but be aware that you could be increasing your fire risk. Be careful shutting a hot engine off inside a building. Be sure you idle down for a bit before shutting down.
True about the idle down part but for years we had mowers without this part and they worked great. Someone with a pencil thought hey let's add more crap. Probably never has messed with a mower before.
Do you keep it plugged in, or do you snip the snip the wire off too?
U can unplug it
Would this fix a engine surging after being warm? Runs 10 mins or so then surges and dies. Wont run right again till it cools down
Nope sounds like u have a oil going bad
A oil what? Lol
Interesting comments...so I shall add my two cents.....my Afterfire solenoid went bad about ten years ago and I had a horrible backfire when shutting it off....went to get another one and was advised to shorten the shaft by cutting it in half instead of spending the $75 dollars for a new one. Since then the backfire on shutoff is gone....and I have no gas leaking through the carb....I have to agree....another part put on the carb that was never needed.
your past issue describes my problem. Only backfires after engine is turned off. Everyone is talking about a fuel shut off valve....where would you install it..../ Any ideas ....thank you
will a bad solenoid make engine backfire alot and almost make it die
Yed
If you do this do you open a free flow of gas? Don't you need a fuel line cut off?
Yes you do. That's why I suggested a inline shut off
I have an in-line shutoff valve and I performed this very fix a week ago. The mower ran fine on that day. Now it won't fire up at all, and I'm pretty sure it's flooding. Any ideas?
Check your inline shutoff cause sounds like it is leaking through it
Checked, it definitely isn't. I can disconnect the fuel line with the shutoff closed and no leaks at all. Not sure now if it is flooding or if there's a blockage in the carb. Checked to make sure the HT lead is working with a spark gap test device, but I guess the spark plug may be fouled - it was wet with gasoline when i removed it.
+Alex Clark if gas isn't getting through then it's getting too much while running. Have u check to see if the float is getting stuck open?
How do I check that? I removed the bowl and the float seems to move freely but I can't see how to take any more of it off without removing the entire carb, which I'd like to avoid if possible.
+Alex Clark u will need to remove carb and take it apart to see and clean it out. Sounds like u have some trash keeping the needle from seating
When i turn my key this selonoid clicks, i pulled it out and when i ground it i watch it go up and down. If its bad can it still move? And also my mower does not try to crank over at all it only clicks right at this selonoid.
Try checking the starter solenoid. Sounds like your fuel one is working great.
Awesome tip. Im on it tomorrow.
I’m going to try this on a Cub Cadet I just acquired a few days ago the solenoid is dead but I can get it to turn over and attempt to run for about 4 seconds
Thanks you saved me a mechanic's bill!
coyotesniper72 happy it helped
All that is fine,my Craftsman 42" did it ,so I took out the silonoid and replaced it with a short bolt and rubber o ring ,then cut my fuel line and installed a fuel cut off ,if you don't it'll flood the mower
Adjust your floats in the float bowl. Your carb should not be flooding. It works just like the float in your toilet bowl that shuts the water off so the tank does not overfill.
I had an older riding Craftsman. Someone gave it to me. It didn't have this switch. Shortly after I got it, it dumped the gas in the tank onto the ground. I knew what the problem was, ad I am old motorcyclist. Ordered a new needle and seat from the mainland USA, as we live near Hilo Hawaii. Replaced those parts and got another 7-8 years out of that ancient Craftsman. Now I have a Poulan Pro rider, and it up and quite after a few years. I believe it is this switch. Ordered one from China and an waiting for it. I tried bench testing the old switch, and the plunger won't plunge with current.
Heah I used to keep my shop so clean I could eat off the floor. But I'm getting old and I have bad knees. Your place looks like mine.
Thanks Lonnie, I'll try this when I get home from work. I just paid $95.00 to John Deer for a new Solenoid. Before I take it out of the plastic bagging, I'll do this. If it works you just saved me a bundle.
I agree Horsepower garage, it's just more crap to make more money, and they never had them before recently when they learned the vast majority of people are uneducated fools you can sell anything to.
Thanks man I just fix my
Poulan Pro tractor 🚜 I save a lot of money. Old School
Shouldn't have to grind all the way to the threads anyway. Only as far as the pin bottoms out at.
If you just install a simple in-line fuel shutoff valve between the tank and the carburetor, you wouldn't need a fuel solenoid. Mowers and engines have run fine for decades without them. I've got a John Deere Sabre rider that I use without a battery or starter solenoid and jump start with cables directly at the starter. Once the motor's running, the fuel solenoid circuit is energized through induction.
All the solenoid does is plug the main jet when the key is off, it does not keep fuel from entering the carb, that is the job of the float and needle. The fuel cutoff solenoid is not needed and was not even put on carbs until recently.
+Horsepower Garage - Yup you are 100% Correct Sir !!!! :)))
The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid is backup in case the needle sticks and fuel fills the carb and enters the engine, diluting the oil. It is needed and important.
WRONG! Jod.
Your write on need to fix the ball and seat first.then put a on off valve on gas line .then modify cut off.
I have a 1992 craftsman riding mower with a 12.5hp briggs flat head, it never had a carb rebuild and doesn't have the solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor. The engine has never flooded, never leaked gas into the oil, and it still runs better than my 2007 craftsman which has the solenoid on the carb. If you take care of your machines it would never become a problem in the first place. If I'm not mistaken it does regulate the amount of fuel usage when its running, which is an EPA regulation placed on small engine manufactures.
This works but fuel can fill you cylinder with fuel, good temporary fix but I suggest installing a fuel line shut off. Also idle the engine down and wait a sec or so before shutting it down.
That's why I say put an inline shut off
breother i know this is an old video but just helped me back to cutting grass
Good deal
Ok ill try that but will it be flooded all the time now ? I guess i ll find out
That's why I suggest to put an inline shut off
@@LonniesGarage i was too lazy to put a shut off on .havnt had a problem with flooding yet .for sure u get a subscribe