I have to say: it's so much fun watching a professional perform his trade. It says a lot when you can make the most basic of machining look interesting. This is a great channel!
Hi +EricTheCarGuy! I'm from Brazil, and machining rotors and drums are really popular around here. Your videos on this subject are really interesting for me, I learned a lot after seeing you machine brake stuff. Also, I think that's a way to help and protect the environment, only discarding when you really have to. Thank you!
+James Erikson Out of all the BS hate comments that have been directed at me over this video, this one wipes them all out. Finally, the intent of the video has been realized. You just made my day. Thanks.
+EricTheCarGuy no problem sir. they are just jealous that they can't be like you. I watch every video you upload, simply to keep my mind learning and active in automotive. almost everything I do these days, has a part of your methods and direction. and I wouldn't know what else to do if it weren't for you. this video is amazingly done and, I don't know why anyone would talk badly about it/toward you, unless they were jealous and/or didn't know what you're doing and wished they did.
+EricTheCarGuy but no, thank you, for this very informative video that HAS taught me some very important points that even people doing it in my job for 20+ years didn't show me.
+EricTheCarGuy i will say some of the comments were hateful but a lot of your viewers were genuinely concerned for you. No one wants to see you hurt Eric.
+EricTheCarGuy I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks to your upload, I will be doing a complete driver side CV shaft replacement on my Civic soon. I already ordered the parts. I just need some free time and good weather to do the job.
Leaving the wear spot in the drum accelerates wear in drum and brake shoes because it becomes a collection pocket for dust and dirt. The dust actually cuts up drums and rotors fast. A tip is with drum brakes Before installing the shoe on the car take your freshly machined or new drums lay them flat inside up. Place the brake shoes inside the drum like they will be on the car. With your thumb at the center of the shoe press the shoe against the drum look for a gap at the top and bottom of the shoe between the drum and shoe look for a gap in the center if both ends of the shoe are touching but the center isn't you are looking for 100% contact between the drum and shoe. If it's not you will have speaking and uneven braking. To fix a gap at the brake shoes ends. Stand the brake shoes on the cement shop floor so the crown of the shoe faces up. Take a no Mar hammer and hit the shoe on the crown with the hammer It doesn't take much to arch the shoe check for fit in the drum and repeat as needed. For a gap in the center of the brake shoe hold the shoe on the floor with one end of the shoe facing up and strike the end of the shoe with the hammer again it doesn't take a hard hit medium strike . Then check for fit. This is something a brake guy taught me before he retired 40+ years ago. I never ever have had a brake job come back for squeaks or uneven braking since I began fitting she's to drums. Now once a year tell your customer to bring the car back and you pull the drums take a water hose and spray the dust and dirt off the shoes and backing plates and out of the drums. You will soon be known as the best brake guy in town. .**** Never rebuild a wheel cylinder always buy new*** It's a liability thing if you rebuild it and it fails you can be sued AND YOUR INSURANCE WONT COVER A REBUILT WHEEL CYLINDER FAILURE. CALIPERS YOU CAN REBUILD BECAUSE THERE IS NO METAL ON METAL CONTACT SO NO BORE WEAR... ALSO NEVER REBUILD A MASTER CYLINDER FOR THE SAME REASON
Hi Eric! Great video as usual. Quick safety tip: try and avoid wearing gloves when working around open spinning shafts like lathes. About 2yrs ago we had a tool and die guy at my job get his glove grabbed by a spinning lathe which ended up sucking his entire hand in. He had his fingers pulled out from his knuckle...ugly scene my friend. Apparently it would have been only a cut/bruise had he his gloves off. Be safe and stay dirty.
It really is a lost art. Like you said, most people just replace the parts rather than repairing what is already there. Genuine replacement parts can get expensive, so it is nice to be able to offer options to people.
Some brake lathes are also capable to machine your rotors while they're on the car, that's good when the car can have little imperfections like crooked hubs wich will give awat vibrations when driving. I didn't think it would be so fun the first time i used one at work.
+Samuel Lindström I machined a Flywheel one time while it was on a car, I left it on the Vehicle and held a File against it when the engine was runny haha Stupid but HEY it worked!
Yes actually it cam out really good. it almost looked like it was Turned on a Lathe. Only down fall was it didn't have the Circular motions of Cutting like a Lathe will do. But works out great and still no issue 6 months later today/
+lolz larkin only retards who dont know what their doing will get that happen to them. I dont think he would get sued since he isnt responsible to the actions of other ppl.
I remember using the lathe when I was in my Automotive Tech classes back in 2002 , ah fun times! Also, squeaky noise like this is normal it has to do with the way the pads and rotors wear out. They create a pattern of normal wear , so when you back up the pads and rotors turn to the opposite pattern of wear creating the sound. Of course im talking when you only hear this sound while backing up.
Love the humility and expertise. They are a rare combination. Keep up the great videos, and let me know if you ever want an Audio/Video and mobile electronics "sidekick"!
I'm willing to bet this re-upload has little to do with the commentors. Eric has gotten lots of negative comments on other vids and never re-edited them. This is more like the situation with the car lift, when he used the bungee cord to bypass the safety lock and the manufacturer that gave the machine to him made him change it (he has never used that bypass trick in any video since then either, despite him saying that he did it on a daily basis when he worked at the dealership). So I'm willing to bet that Ranger products either scolded him for doing that, or he was afraid they would. Have to be careful when you are so heavily subsidized by sponsors.
+Medicman He did what? Holy shit. I've seen multiple lifts fail due to worn hydraulic lines, and when it goes, the thing goes down fast. Safety lock was literally the only thing stopping the car from killing the mechanic. (Thank jebus the coat that one mechanic used to hang from the safety lock lever wasn't heavy enough to disengage the lock) I cannot understand what goes through someone's mind when they decide to ignore safety just to be lazy. It sickens me. No wonder companies spends millions to educate their staff on safety and implement sometimes ridiculous rules, just because workers can be absolute idiots when it comes to their own well being.
+Medicman Yea when I was watching I was honestly hoping there weren't any small burrs or anything for the rag to catch on cause they could have literally been his hand.
I think that was a good call to take the rag scene out. That had the potential for big disaster and was an unnecessarily unsafe way to do a simple thing.
+jhebe v You sound like that guy I saw here on YT who kept slamming into the glass in the high rise building he worked in. He did it just to scare people. Just because he thought the glass wouldn't break. It wasn't suppose too. But one day he slammed into it and fell, I believe it was 9 stories to his death. Much like Eric sticking his hand inside the drum while it's spinning. It might not get you for a while. But somewhere along the way, it does. And you wind up with something broken or at worst, Completly detached.
+jhebe v That's true. Too much cotton wool in society these days and because of all these over-safe scaredy cats, we continue to breed idiots who would have otherwise died out in natural selection. Hence why there are so many problems in society.
+GALAXIE 500XL and he has over half a million subscribers. With that many people, there's a good chance a few would screw this up and get wrapped around the lathe
eric normally i love the video and everything in it but there is a reason you got the flack cause we dont want to see ya hurt but seems like a cool device to have just be careful
If it is the rear drums, you can go "over" a little bit, if bullets are flying, or it is your own car. If it is a customer's car or you are carrying kids in a hilly area, you can't. As long as the brake shoes and mechanism can spread out far enough. Even if in "spec": Removing material from the drum/rotor reduces the overall braking "capacity".
I'm ok with the fact he took the scene about cleaning the inside of the drum with a rag out, but at the same time you have to ask yourself: Is anyone on the internet using a 5,500 machine and doesn't know the proper way to use it? lol. Everyone told me that "Eric is a role model and his videos teach you how to do things right", and while that's true and fine I extremely strongly doubt anyone watching these videos is using it as a purely how to, back yard mechanics don't have brake lathes.
love the videos Eric. Gotta ask you to please don't wear gloves around the lathe. All it takes is one or two loose strings from the tip of the glove to get caught in the spindle or the feed screw. Please be safe and keep them coming.
"E" Great video, You be right about cost effectiveness regarding buy new or resurface, I can't find anyone who even wants to resurface drums or rotors any more. As you said, hard to find or obsolete parts knowledge of the old ways always best to have. Thanks for keeping up on the videos, All the best.
Hi Eric. Great videos. I have learned a great deal over the years. I have a 67 Chrysler 300 with Front Drums. Are they able to turn these drums without having to remove the wheel hub. That hub has been on the drum for probably 50 years.
I was going to rip on you, but for the tool that you have, you did very, very well. Angle and depths of cut along with rpm and feed make her cut well. Nice job.
Left and right is Z axis and forward and back is X axis. If you turned a mill on its side that's what you get. Also even though you might need to get creative getting your tool inside a drum, tool stick out is a huge factor in chatter. You could do this job on a regular lathe and never need a vibration band, just by making sure your tool isn't too far out and your feeds and speeds are correct.
Usually O'reilly Auto Parts machines drums or rotors for $20-$25. They measure your existing drums and rotors before they machine them. They are easy to find in many parts of the USA. That in mind, there are so many high quality brake rotors at a low price, so I just buy those. The amount of time saved by not machining rotors often makes up for the price.
I just had a set machined at O'Reilly in NC and it was 21 bucks out the door. I decided to turn the old ones after the new ones ($95) made the vehicle vibrate. There was still a lot of "meat" left on the old one.
Glad you reposted with the unsafe acts cut out. I cringed the other day when I watched the brakekleen and rag inside a moving part. That machine would cut a finger or hand easier than the cast iron rotor.
watch the wheels after you torque them down. you spin them to check for being mounted flat to the hub, not to make a cool transition to the next scene...
Back in the day I used a wet rag but I fold it up and go below the cutting head, now i have a sink by the lathe with a spray nozzle to rinse rotors and drums off. The arbor speed seems to fast, but if it doesn't chatter I guess its fine. Try machining a truck rotor 12 inches or bigger I'm curious to see how it cuts it. I have a Hunter BL505 and you can change the arbor speed.
7:55 I enjoy Eric because he admits to reading / consulting manual and then he appears to do things by the seat of his "behind"! He should have manually turned lathe before turn on and the ''stick-out" of tool cutting edge should be as close as possible to this bar... To avoid chatter and breaking tooling... He even clamped rotor with "no respect"... this guy, one day will do a video on how he lost an eye, a limb or how he died... ? 10:45 all you had to do was mic it and that will tell you if you can take a "hash" (thousandths of an inch)... No guessing or hoping required. For the life of YOU, do NOT stand in front of rotating tooling! If, the drum of the belt fails, you can be killed! Put a poly guard around that tooling, stop being cheap! You get enough youtube money to install a guard! Lastly, you should have replaced shoes, they will apply an uneven wear pattern on drums; they are the exact profile YOU JUST LATHED OUT. Net zero will be this outcome; as soon as pads "recut" the drums... Also, your noise could be the wrong pad matrial for the drums. Put back manufacturer's recommendation unless a service bulletin says otherwise. 16:00 having doubts about it surviving is proof positive you need to learn math; you mic it, then you can deduct what is "fair game" (the rest can stay). Your "hash marks" on lathe are not "guess hashes", they actually are a starting point from you ZEROING the tool. Torque those tire nuts, it is the professional way!
Surprised to see you did not use sandpaper at the end of the machining to impart a non directional finish. Machining a drum essentially causes a very fine thread to be worn into the surface (like a screw). This can cause the shoes to be pulled away from the backing plate during application causing a noise as the springs pull them back down. Giving a quick 60 second sand with 160 grit sandpaper gives a non directional finish and reduces noisy brakes.
It was a fun video to watch, thanks for posting. For some reason I thought the technician would drip oil onto the cutting edge to prevent it from overheating.
+Tomek Hermsgavordenbroker Exactly, because Cast Iron is pooris and absorbs Oils and water. That is why it stays wet for so long and if oil hits it it's difficult to clean unless you heat it.
I stopped getting my old brake drums machined because the auto parts stores charge way too much for the machining service now. You can buy new brake drums online for little bit more money.
Seems like it could use a vacuum of some sort by the cutting head to suck up the metal shavings. Otherwise, a very neat machine to have in the arsenal!
cool video... you probably know this but if you're getting any chatter it may help if you use a insert with a smaller radius. Smaller radius = less contact area... causing less deflection on the b.b.
The funny part is I saw the section with the rag, decided to download the video from TH-cam as in my automotive clas we are currently talking about shop safety do's and dont's with equipment and the last thing our teacher said was to never stick your hand into a rotating brake lathe for any reason at all..... Well I brought my laptop to class today and we watched the full original version I had and after the video. The teacher stands up, mentions that this was a GREAT informative video on how the lathe works, and that even thou people are professionals they can still make an honest mistake without thinking about it, and that was the "rag scene" but it was great that it was used for a learning moment and the teacher liked that... Also Eric, turns out we will be watching more of your videos is class, our teacher has watched a few and really likes your in depth detail about repairs and great information and tip provided by a true professional technician "on the job"
I have Gremlins creating random squeaks in the brakes on my Volvo. I tried everything that I could think of but the squeaks won't go away. I refuse to buy new calipers to stop a few squeaks when the car stops just fine. Getting rid of all squeaks in an older car gets very expensive beyond a certain point. Machining the rotors and drums is worth a try.
Never use the word "non-directional", use that term in a machine shop or professional repair shop and they would throw you out of the building. What is required is a "crosshatch" on the surface of a rotor and the proper way to do it is by using a rotor hone and drill (www.rotorhone.com)
Eric, it seems like a lot of bad dust comes out by using this machine. I guess it's not very healthy to breath. Some kind of air pumb would be helpful while machinering. What do you think?
Why did you originally attempt the job without resurfacing the drum? I've done that a couple times in the past and they've always made noise. You need a smooth surface without ridges for the new shoes otherwise they'll ride on the high spots and vibrate causing noise.
That's a lot to leave on a drum but then again you're not replacing the brake shoes. This video is better than the flywheel video you did. One of the things I noticed you didn't mention and this applies to rotors also once you have set your zero manually crank the machine out to the edge of the rotor if there is a lip cut it off by hand same thing applies to Drums. Because you don't want to be taking a 6 thousandths cuut and then all sudden hit 10 thousandths or more because of that lip. That will break Shear gears or lock up the machine
Nice machine but i do not like that it does not have a safety for the power button, like you can maybe accidental start the machine when mounting the drum/disc in place. It should have like a cover or something and also an emergency stop button.
By the look of it (lightweight parts etc) I think it's a Chinese lathe. It somehow slipped by the approval process, or maybe wasn't checked at all. (Harbor Freight?) I've run into the odd power tool also that doesn't have a safety lockout switch, mostly of the Asian variety, but I agree that lathe should have a Panic Off Button.
@@michaelmclernon4929 I have used many different brake lathes and yet to see a safety stop on any. I also own one and no such button. I also am a machinist and operete very large machinery and only a few of the machines I run have safety stops since most of them are quite older models. In fact, if one of the machines I run pulled me in, no safety switch helping me anyways since it would happen to fast.
7:41 flippin skillage lol. oh and hey Eric not sure if it is bad on the lathe but if you have an old rotor is there any chance you could try to produce the "singing" or "chatter"? as said not sure if it is hard on the lathe or anything but would be a cool demonstration.
Hi Eric, Machining parts is indeed a lost art, it's all replace and throw away now and many garages don't even have the equipment anymore. I have 2 questions: 1. After a few sets of brake pads, rotors can become very groovy while still in spec and silent. Would you recommend machining them, or prefer to keep the material on them as long as they're silent and deal with slightly faster wearing pads? 2. I am thinking of replacing my stationwagon with a small van, but most of them come with drum brakes in the back. I only had 1 car with drums in the back and it was a small cheap light car. I wonder if this is a cost over safety thing, or if drum brakes are actually just as good (/better) as simple non-ventilated disks in the back? greetings from Belgium, Isabelle
Not a bad show ,But two things to do ... NEVER leave a machine running and not be there if something went wrong you are there to switch it off , could cause a few $$$ of damage to the machine and what you are machining, secondly you can measure the diameter while the drum is still on the machine while stopped , so if it needs anothercut its still in the same position that you started with.
Why are the cutter axis and drum axis not parallel? I know you are doing it right I just can't get my mind around it. If gutter is on angle it seems it would taper drum service.
While the machine is doing a final cut would a continuous sounding scraping sound be indicative of a uniform diameter drum. The reason I am asking is that I recently had a drum cut and I could hear the scraping sounding on and off as if the cutting edge was cutting and not cutting. The tech said that was final and yes the surface did look "clean" all around but when I put the drums on the vehicle I still experienced a brake judder at high speeds
Nice video! I'm looking to buy a machine for rotors and drums. Are you able to turn the magnet surface on a trailer drum? It looks to me like it would be possible with this machine.
Wish I could work on stuff that had drum brakes that small. The ones we run are 137 pounds each. But I'm so used to it now, it's like nothing.......they make nice finger smashers though lol
I'm not trolling but won't that little bit of non contact reduce braking in that wheel and decrease the force on that side of the vehicle causing braking force to be unequal? I'm sure it is better than it was, but wouldn't it be better to just get new drums for a he extra 30 or 40 bucks?
I am curious Eric, did you put a light coating of grease on the rises of the back plate? Metal on metal contact there will definitely squeak. It's only a matter of time until the paint coating on the table lining on any new shoes will wear down and ride against the metal on the backing plate rises again.
I was gonna say its acctually X and Z axisx being front and back Z being left and right. But i belive thats on a 3 axis. Atleast thats on the Mori Seiki DL-20 and DL-25 CNC lathes i run at work
i saw it a few times but still lost. can you set it up to cut a few thousands of an inch at a time or do you eyeball it and cut very little every time until you get desired measurement?
I'd like to see some proof of how much run out he took out of the drum (or added to it). Where is the dial gauge? Also re mount the drum at 180 degree rotation and re measure. This thing looks too much like a Harbor Freight feel - good toy for my liking.
Should Brand New Drums and Rotors be turned ? I just replaced Rotors and brakes up front like 2 months ago and when I depress the brakes, it’s “chuff, chuff, chuff” very lightly as I stop. The pads still have lots of pad left. So I’m thinking I need them turned. They are like brand new aftermarket.
Awesome ending :) Love your vids. Learning alot. thx and keep it up. If you ever get to change the parking brake shoes on a saab 9-5 -02, plz film it :)
@ 3:10 I hear drag. Why do you say that's good. Why allow unnecessary friction causing unnecessary heat build up. Why not back off a hair till no noise? I don't get it. Also, when you sanded the shoe, what grit sandpaper? Did you blow away any possible particles? Also, what if you had to remove .005 too much? Big problem?
Cool machining work bro, but I would have got both drums off first, and machined the worst one (biggest) first. If that second drum was oversize, you have wasted your time machining the first one.....but Im just being picky
sadly manufacturers don't have much wear on their parts anymore, case in point: Ford front brake rotor new 28 mm thick minimum thickness 26.5 mm so that's what 1.5 mm wear sadly this truly is a forgotten function except in checking warpage
May be ancient but it's satisfying to do it yourself. Sure you can buy a Chinese drum for about $20, but guys like Chris keep the art alive. Besides, he KNOWS the drum is true. Knowing what kind of perfectionist Chris is, he would likely recheck a new drum on his machine anyway. Kudos Chris, I love your common sense videos.
I'm going to say that bendpak might have wanted this video as apart of a advertisement on their website about the lathe just like his review video, and weren't happy about that little 10sec part of the video. Was it safe? No, but atleast eric went through and edited what he didn't seem to be dangerous at the time out
I walked away from a resurfacing machine.. industrial, diamond head... the stop nut came lose... in 15 minutes it ground the parts away... the V-blocks away.. and got into the mag table... that's when it started to scream. 120k in damage. They let me keep my job.. yes even i was shocked at that. Rear drums are cheap though.. a busted drum that comes apart can cause some serious damage. If it was that close.. I would have replaced it.
![[FULL EP.73] เปิดบ้าน 70 ล้าน "แป้ง Zbing" ยกมาทั้งญี่ปุ่น l เคหสถานบานปลาย l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YBnJhTt07Pg/mqdefault.jpg)
fast forward to 7:41 for badass tool flip
I have to say: it's so much fun watching a professional perform his trade. It says a lot when you can make the most basic of machining look interesting. This is a great channel!
Hi +EricTheCarGuy! I'm from Brazil, and machining rotors and drums are really popular around here. Your videos on this subject are really interesting for me, I learned a lot after seeing you machine brake stuff. Also, I think that's a way to help and protect the environment, only discarding when you really have to. Thank you!
I'm sorry, but that wrench flip was the coolest thing I have ever seen in any of your vids.
I agree! See it at 7:40.
thanks so much. I'm learning how to do this at my job right now, and you helped me understand it a lot better then anyone else who's shown me.
+James Erikson Out of all the BS hate comments that have been directed at me over this video, this one wipes them all out. Finally, the intent of the video has been realized. You just made my day. Thanks.
+EricTheCarGuy no problem sir. they are just jealous that they can't be like you. I watch every video you upload, simply to keep my mind learning and active in automotive. almost everything I do these days, has a part of your methods and direction. and I wouldn't know what else to do if it weren't for you. this video is amazingly done and, I don't know why anyone would talk badly about it/toward you, unless they were jealous and/or didn't know what you're doing and wished they did.
+EricTheCarGuy but no, thank you, for this very informative video that HAS taught me some very important points that even people doing it in my job for 20+ years didn't show me.
+EricTheCarGuy i will say some of the comments were hateful but a lot of your viewers were genuinely concerned for you. No one wants to see you hurt Eric.
+EricTheCarGuy I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks to your upload, I will be doing a complete driver side CV shaft replacement on my Civic soon. I already ordered the parts. I just need some free time and good weather to do the job.
In this day and age the mantra seems to be "sue first, ask questions later", good job on the re-edit, thumbs up!
Leaving the wear spot in the drum accelerates wear in drum and brake shoes because it becomes a collection pocket for dust and dirt. The dust actually cuts up drums and rotors fast.
A tip is with drum brakes Before installing the shoe on the car take your freshly machined or new drums lay them flat inside up. Place the brake shoes inside the drum like they will be on the car.
With your thumb at the center of the shoe press the shoe against the drum look for a gap at the top and bottom of the shoe between the drum and shoe look for a gap in the center if both ends of the shoe are touching but the center isn't you are looking for 100% contact between the drum and shoe. If it's not you will have speaking and uneven braking.
To fix a gap at the brake shoes ends. Stand the brake shoes on the cement shop floor so the crown of the shoe faces up. Take a no Mar hammer and hit the shoe on the crown with the hammer
It doesn't take much to arch the shoe check for fit in the drum and repeat as needed.
For a gap in the center of the brake shoe hold the shoe on the floor with one end of the shoe facing up and strike the end of the shoe with the hammer again it doesn't take a hard hit medium strike .
Then check for fit.
This is something a brake guy taught me before he retired 40+ years ago.
I never ever have had a brake job come back for squeaks or uneven braking since I began fitting she's to drums.
Now once a year tell your customer to bring the car back and you pull the drums take a water hose and spray the dust and dirt off the shoes and backing plates and out of the drums.
You will soon be known as the best brake guy in town.
.**** Never rebuild a wheel cylinder always buy new***
It's a liability thing if you rebuild it and it fails you can be sued AND YOUR INSURANCE WONT COVER A REBUILT WHEEL CYLINDER FAILURE.
CALIPERS YOU CAN REBUILD BECAUSE THERE IS NO METAL ON METAL CONTACT SO NO BORE WEAR...
ALSO NEVER REBUILD A MASTER CYLINDER FOR THE SAME REASON
Came to say this about the wear spot. Nice tip, tbough!
I think its awesome how they still teach this in schools. I'm a auto tech in college.
Hi Eric! Great video as usual. Quick safety tip: try and avoid wearing gloves when working around open spinning shafts like lathes. About 2yrs ago we had a tool and die guy at my job get his glove grabbed by a spinning lathe which ended up sucking his entire hand in. He had his fingers pulled out from his knuckle...ugly scene my friend. Apparently it would have been only a cut/bruise had he his gloves off. Be safe and stay dirty.
This is for machinists and drivers who need options to repair their rotors. Great educational video, i did this in high school in the Caribbean.
It really is a lost art. Like you said, most people just replace the parts rather than repairing what is already there. Genuine replacement parts can get expensive, so it is nice to be able to offer options to people.
Some brake lathes are also capable to machine your rotors while they're on the car, that's good when the car can have little imperfections like crooked hubs wich will give awat vibrations when driving. I didn't think it would be so fun the first time i used one at work.
+Samuel Lindström I machined a Flywheel one time while it was on a car, I left it on the Vehicle and held a File against it when the engine was runny haha Stupid but HEY it worked!
+TRX Vlogger haha, would've never thought of that
lol. It was scary that's for sure. One wrong move and you loose a finger.
+TRX Vlogger did it all work out then? did the flywheel come out good?
Yes actually it cam out really good. it almost looked like it was Turned on a Lathe. Only down fall was it didn't have the Circular motions of Cutting like a Lathe will do. But works out great and still no issue 6 months later today/
It's been almost 20 years since I've operated a brake lathe. Used to use one daily. Always just replace drums and rotors anymore.
looks like he edited the rag scene lol
+Joe Schmoe Yea he got alot of shit for that. For good reason but still.
Because it was dangerous, he stuck a cloth and hand into the drum whilst it was spinning on the lathe
+James'sWorld Yeah I figured it out and deleted my comment, sorry.
+James'sWorld He is in America. Probably would have got sued when someone ripped their arm off trying to copy Eric and his sketchy as fuck techniques.
+lolz larkin only retards who dont know what their doing will get that happen to them. I dont think he would get sued since he isnt responsible to the actions of other ppl.
I remember using the lathe when I was in my Automotive Tech classes back in 2002 , ah fun times! Also, squeaky noise like this is normal it has to do with the way the pads and rotors wear out. They create a pattern of normal wear , so when you back up the pads and rotors turn to the opposite pattern of wear creating the sound. Of course im talking when you only hear this sound while backing up.
Love the humility and expertise. They are a rare combination. Keep up the great videos, and let me know if you ever want an Audio/Video and mobile electronics "sidekick"!
I'm willing to bet this re-upload has little to do with the commentors. Eric has gotten lots of negative comments on other vids and never re-edited them. This is more like the situation with the car lift, when he used the bungee cord to bypass the safety lock and the manufacturer that gave the machine to him made him change it (he has never used that bypass trick in any video since then either, despite him saying that he did it on a daily basis when he worked at the dealership). So I'm willing to bet that Ranger products either scolded him for doing that, or he was afraid they would. Have to be careful when you are so heavily subsidized by sponsors.
I reckon you are spot on!
+Medicman He did what? Holy shit. I've seen multiple lifts fail due to worn hydraulic lines, and when it goes, the thing goes down fast. Safety lock was literally the only thing stopping the car from killing the mechanic. (Thank jebus the coat that one mechanic used to hang from the safety lock lever wasn't heavy enough to disengage the lock)
I cannot understand what goes through someone's mind when they decide to ignore safety just to be lazy. It sickens me.
No wonder companies spends millions to educate their staff on safety and implement sometimes ridiculous rules, just because workers can be absolute idiots when it comes to their own well being.
+LTA agree 100% you can never be too safe.
+Medicman Yea when I was watching I was honestly hoping there weren't any small burrs or anything for the rag to catch on cause they could have literally been his hand.
I think that was a good call to take the rag scene out. That had the potential for big disaster and was an unnecessarily unsafe way to do a simple thing.
scene
Dušan Pešić Thanks.
+jhebe v You sound like that guy I saw here on YT who kept slamming into the glass in the high rise building he worked in. He did it just to scare people. Just because he thought the glass wouldn't break. It wasn't suppose too. But one day he slammed into it and fell, I believe it was 9 stories to his death. Much like Eric sticking his hand inside the drum while it's spinning. It might not get you for a while. But somewhere along the way, it does. And you wind up with something broken or at worst, Completly detached.
+jhebe v That's true. Too much cotton wool in society these days and because of all these over-safe scaredy cats, we continue to breed idiots who would have otherwise died out in natural selection. Hence why there are so many problems in society.
+GALAXIE 500XL and he has over half a million subscribers. With that many people, there's a good chance a few would screw this up and get wrapped around the lathe
eric normally i love the video and everything in it but there is a reason you got the flack cause we dont want to see ya hurt but seems like a cool device to have just be careful
If it is the rear drums, you can go "over" a little bit, if bullets are flying, or it is your own car. If it is a customer's car or you are carrying kids in a hilly area, you can't. As long as the brake shoes and mechanism can spread out far enough. Even if in "spec": Removing material from the drum/rotor reduces the overall braking "capacity".
Repeat Eric... I watched it again, that's how entertaining you actually are...!
I'm ok with the fact he took the scene about cleaning the inside of the drum with a rag out, but at the same time you have to ask yourself: Is anyone on the internet using a 5,500 machine and doesn't know the proper way to use it? lol. Everyone told me that "Eric is a role model and his videos teach you how to do things right", and while that's true and fine I extremely strongly doubt anyone watching these videos is using it as a purely how to, back yard mechanics don't have brake lathes.
Everyone is talking about "rag scene". I believe that it was about using that pink rag to clean the drum while machine was spinnig, am I right?
love the videos Eric. Gotta ask you to please don't wear gloves around the lathe. All it takes is one or two loose strings from the tip of the glove to get caught in the spindle or the feed screw. Please be safe and keep them coming.
07:43 Nice moves there, Eric! :)
For squeaks. We use comet sink cleaner in the drum when we put it back together.
"E" Great video, You be right about cost effectiveness regarding buy new or resurface, I can't find anyone who even wants to resurface drums or rotors any more. As you said, hard to find or obsolete parts knowledge of the old ways always best to have. Thanks for keeping up on the videos, All the best.
I always change my break pads, disc and drums instead of having them machine cut even prior to the break noise, but good job Eric.
Hi Eric. Great videos. I have learned a great deal over the years. I have a 67 Chrysler 300 with Front Drums. Are they able to turn these drums without having to remove the wheel hub. That hub has been on the drum for probably 50 years.
I was going to rip on you, but for the tool that you have, you did very, very well. Angle and depths of cut along with rpm and feed make her cut well. Nice job.
+adithmart How do we bed in the brakes?
Left and right is Z axis and forward and back is X axis. If you turned a mill on its side that's what you get. Also even though you might need to get creative getting your tool inside a drum, tool stick out is a huge factor in chatter. You could do this job on a regular lathe and never need a vibration band, just by making sure your tool isn't too far out and your feeds and speeds are correct.
always use a band
I’m getting my drums turned this Saturday due to noise they inspected and confirmed already mine can be machined got to love it lol
Usually O'reilly Auto Parts machines drums or rotors for $20-$25. They measure your existing drums and rotors before they machine them. They are easy to find in many parts of the USA.
That in mind, there are so many high quality brake rotors at a low price, so I just buy those. The amount of time saved by not machining rotors often makes up for the price.
I just had a set machined at O'Reilly in NC and it was 21 bucks out the door. I decided to turn the old ones after the new ones ($95) made the vehicle vibrate. There was still a lot of "meat" left on the old one.
Glad you reposted with the unsafe acts cut out. I cringed the other day when I watched the brakekleen and rag inside a moving part. That machine would cut a finger or hand easier than the cast iron rotor.
First step: own a couple thousand dollars machinery
Nobody said this was a DIY video.
Couple? The link lists $6k
Beg, borrow, steal, or offer sexual favors.
If you have a market for the machine ... that money will be made back in a flash ... my local machine shop charges 40 to 80 a pair do the math
I want a machine right now
nice wall clock
Elvis lives
19:44 you and I laughed at the same time. I know that feeling haha
Nice job. Humorous at the end noting to check whether the front or back brakes are the culprit! :-)
I'm glad you cut out the unsafe rag scenes :) thumbs up
watch the wheels after you torque them down. you spin them to check for being mounted flat to the hub, not to make a cool transition to the next scene...
Back in the day I used a wet rag but I fold it up and go below the cutting head, now i have a sink by the lathe with a spray nozzle to rinse rotors and drums off. The arbor speed seems to fast, but if it doesn't chatter I guess its fine. Try machining a truck rotor 12 inches or bigger I'm curious to see how it cuts it. I have a Hunter BL505 and you can change the arbor speed.
7:55 I enjoy Eric because he admits to reading / consulting manual and then he appears to do things by the seat of his "behind"!
He should have manually turned lathe before turn on and the ''stick-out" of tool cutting edge should be as close as possible to this bar... To avoid chatter and breaking tooling...
He even clamped rotor with "no respect"... this guy, one day will do a video on how he lost an eye, a limb or how he died... ?
10:45 all you had to do was mic it and that will tell you if you can take a "hash" (thousandths of an inch)... No guessing or hoping required.
For the life of YOU, do NOT stand in front of rotating tooling!
If, the drum of the belt fails, you can be killed!
Put a poly guard around that tooling, stop being cheap!
You get enough youtube money to install a guard!
Lastly, you should have replaced shoes, they will apply an uneven wear pattern on drums; they are the exact profile YOU JUST LATHED OUT.
Net zero will be this outcome; as soon as pads "recut" the drums...
Also, your noise could be the wrong pad matrial for the drums.
Put back manufacturer's recommendation unless a service bulletin says otherwise.
16:00 having doubts about it surviving is proof positive you need to learn math; you mic it, then you can deduct what is "fair game" (the rest can stay).
Your "hash marks" on lathe are not "guess hashes", they actually are a starting point from you ZEROING the tool.
Torque those tire nuts, it is the professional way!
Surprised to see you did not use sandpaper at the end of the machining to impart a non directional finish.
Machining a drum essentially causes a very fine thread to be worn into the surface (like a screw). This can cause the shoes to be pulled away from the backing plate during application causing a noise as the springs pull them back down.
Giving a quick 60 second sand with 160 grit sandpaper gives a non directional finish and reduces noisy brakes.
It was a fun video to watch, thanks for posting. For some reason I thought the technician would drip oil onto the cutting edge to prevent it from overheating.
+spelunkerd Cast Iron has enough carbon content that is lubricates itself. You don't use fluids on cast iron when using Tungsten Carbide cutting tips.
+Tomek Hermsgavordenbroker Exactly, because Cast Iron is pooris and absorbs Oils and water. That is why it stays wet for so long and if oil hits it it's difficult to clean unless you heat it.
spelunk
If brake shoes squeal, put a chamfer on the leading edge of the friction material with a file, at about 30°. That usually cures it.
Eric should have 1 million subs
Very nice lathe bud. Very useful tool.
So that belt around it is basically to kill the resonance while you're cutting?
Correct
Just continue to use that impact without hearing protection and you wont be able to hear that high frequency brake squeal in no time at all.
I learned how to do this in school and you are right know one does I anymore.
2:58 "drum machine mode"... for a second, it sounded like I was watching a beat tutorial :) lol
I stopped getting my old brake drums machined because the auto parts stores charge way too much for the machining service now. You can buy new brake drums online for little bit more money.
Seems like it could use a vacuum of some sort by the cutting head to suck up the metal shavings. Otherwise, a very neat machine to have in the arsenal!
cool video... you probably know this but if you're getting any chatter it may help if you use a insert with a smaller radius. Smaller radius = less contact area... causing less deflection on the b.b.
Lmao @ all the "rag scene" comments. We need someone to upload the "explicit" version of this video on piratebay or someshit now
The funny part is I saw the section with the rag, decided to download the video from TH-cam as in my automotive clas we are currently talking about shop safety do's and dont's with equipment and the last thing our teacher said was to never stick your hand into a rotating brake lathe for any reason at all..... Well I brought my laptop to class today and we watched the full original version I had and after the video. The teacher stands up, mentions that this was a GREAT informative video on how the lathe works, and that even thou people are professionals they can still make an honest mistake without thinking about it, and that was the "rag scene" but it was great that it was used for a learning moment and the teacher liked that...
Also Eric, turns out we will be watching more of your videos is class, our teacher has watched a few and really likes your in depth detail about repairs and great information and tip provided by a true professional technician "on the job"
Aaron's Vlogs how the fuck did you get into automotive *class with such a shit grammar?
I have Gremlins creating random squeaks in the brakes on my Volvo. I tried everything that I could think of but the squeaks won't go away. I refuse to buy new calipers to stop a few squeaks when the car stops just fine. Getting rid of all squeaks in an older car gets very expensive beyond a certain point. Machining the rotors and drums is worth a try.
i would have sold both drums. do you think with that lil bit of material left will cause the drum to over heat cause hard spots or warpage eventually?
Yes, etc.
For 32 years I've sanded a nondirctional finish on drums & rotors. The new or old marry to the drum or rotor with less hot spots.
Never use the word "non-directional", use that term in a machine shop or professional repair shop and they would throw you out of the building. What is required is a "crosshatch" on the surface of a rotor and the proper way to do it is by using a rotor hone and drill (www.rotorhone.com)
Usually brakes make squeaking noise because brake pads are not the same manufacturer as brake discs.
Eric, it seems like a lot of bad dust comes out by using this machine. I guess it's not very healthy to breath. Some kind of air pumb would be helpful while machinering. What do you think?
well was good to see da beast doing its job on drums.
But how do you brake a machine drum?
+drink15 dynamite
+drink15 Yes and I would like to know how to drum a brake machine too
+drink15 right foot my friend right foot
by giving it to your wife to hold for a minute while you go take a leak real quick.
Thank you for taking the proper action.
Excellent video, thanks for posting.
Why did you originally attempt the job without resurfacing the drum? I've done that a couple times in the past and they've always made noise. You need a smooth surface without ridges for the new shoes otherwise they'll ride on the high spots and vibrate causing noise.
Is it me or did ETCG get his shop upgraded? he is living the good life now.
That's a lot to leave on a drum but then again you're not replacing the brake shoes. This video is better than the flywheel video you did. One of the things I noticed you didn't mention and this applies to rotors also once you have set your zero manually crank the machine out to the edge of the rotor if there is a lip cut it off by hand same thing applies to Drums. Because you don't want to be taking a 6 thousandths cuut and then all sudden hit 10 thousandths or more because of that lip. That will break Shear gears or lock up the machine
Good point I always did that take the lip off first
Nice machine but i do not like that it does not have a safety for the power button, like you can maybe accidental start the machine when mounting the drum/disc in place. It should have like a cover or something and also an emergency stop button.
By the look of it (lightweight parts etc) I think it's a Chinese lathe. It somehow slipped by the approval process, or maybe wasn't checked at all. (Harbor Freight?) I've run into the odd power tool also that doesn't have a safety lockout switch, mostly of the Asian variety, but I agree that lathe should have a Panic Off Button.
@@michaelmclernon4929 I have used many different brake lathes and yet to see a safety stop on any. I also own one and no such button. I also am a machinist and operete very large machinery and only a few of the machines I run have safety stops since most of them are quite older models. In fact, if one of the machines I run pulled me in, no safety switch helping me anyways since it would happen to fast.
7:41 flippin skillage lol. oh and hey Eric not sure if it is bad on the lathe but if you have an old rotor is there any chance you could try to produce the "singing" or "chatter"? as said not sure if it is hard on the lathe or anything but would be a cool demonstration.
Hi Eric,
Machining parts is indeed a lost art, it's all replace and throw away now and many garages don't even have the equipment anymore.
I have 2 questions: 1. After a few sets of brake pads, rotors can become very groovy while still in spec and silent.
Would you recommend machining them, or prefer to keep the material on them as long as they're silent and deal with slightly faster wearing pads?
2. I am thinking of replacing my stationwagon with a small van, but most of them come with drum brakes in the back. I only had 1 car with drums in the back and it was a small cheap light car. I wonder if this is a cost over safety thing, or if drum brakes are actually just as good (/better) as simple non-ventilated disks in the back?
greetings from Belgium,
Isabelle
Not a bad show ,But two things to do ... NEVER leave a machine running and not be there if something went wrong you are there to switch it off , could cause a few $$$ of damage to the machine and what you are machining, secondly you can measure the diameter while the drum is still on the machine while stopped , so if it needs anothercut its still in the same position that you started with.
you could be r-r shoes while drums turning where I work drum/disc brake job including turning drums and rotors hour and half tops
Enjoyed this immensely!
Why are the cutter axis and drum axis not parallel? I know you are doing it right I just can't get my mind around it. If gutter is on angle it seems it would taper drum service.
Moving on up I see.
While the machine is doing a final cut would a continuous sounding scraping sound be indicative of a uniform diameter drum. The reason I am asking is that I recently had a drum cut and I could hear the scraping sounding on and off as if the cutting edge was cutting and not cutting. The tech said that was final and yes the surface did look "clean" all around but when I put the drums on the vehicle I still experienced a brake judder at high speeds
Nice video! I'm looking to buy a machine for rotors and drums. Are you able to turn the magnet surface on a trailer drum? It looks to me like it would be possible with this machine.
Wish I could work on stuff that had drum brakes that small. The ones we run are 137 pounds each. But I'm so used to it now, it's like nothing.......they make nice finger smashers though lol
I'm not trolling but won't that little bit of non contact reduce braking in that wheel and decrease the force on that side of the vehicle causing braking force to be unequal? I'm sure it is better than it was, but wouldn't it be better to just get new drums for a he extra 30 or 40 bucks?
I am curious Eric, did you put a light coating of grease on the rises of the back plate? Metal on metal contact there will definitely squeak. It's only a matter of time until the paint coating on the table lining on any new shoes will wear down and ride against the metal on the backing plate rises again.
Eric did you go back and do the front rotors too? Or did you just replace the rotors and drums
Hey, I saw wheel weights on a drum backing plate, and wondered if this was some old/new school sound deadening?
Thanks Eric! I have the same problem with my brake drums.
I was gonna say its acctually X and Z axisx being front and back Z being left and right. But i belive thats on a 3 axis. Atleast thats on the Mori Seiki DL-20 and DL-25 CNC lathes i run at work
i think its cheaper to buy new drums or disc - saves me a trip plus i will able to complete the job faster.
i saw it a few times but still lost. can you set it up to cut a few thousands of an inch at a time or do you eyeball it and cut very little every time until you get desired measurement?
thanks for the information and the link, just bought a measure gage .. you have a lot of good videos..
I'd like to see some proof of how much run out he took out of the drum (or added to it). Where is the dial gauge? Also re mount the drum at 180 degree rotation and re measure. This thing looks too much like a Harbor Freight feel - good toy for my liking.
Should Brand New Drums and Rotors be turned ?
I just replaced Rotors and brakes up front like 2 months ago and when I depress the brakes, it’s “chuff, chuff, chuff” very lightly as I stop.
The pads still have lots of pad left. So I’m thinking I need them turned. They are like brand new aftermarket.
when you mount the drum, thats a perfect center rate away???
That's just brake parts cleaner he's spraying the brakes with, right?
Awesome ending :) Love your vids. Learning alot. thx and keep it up. If you ever get to change the parking brake shoes on a saab 9-5 -02, plz film it :)
@ 3:10 I hear drag. Why do you say that's good. Why allow unnecessary friction causing unnecessary heat build up.
Why not back off a hair till no noise? I don't get it.
Also, when you sanded the shoe, what grit sandpaper? Did you blow away any possible particles?
Also, what if you had to remove .005 too much? Big problem?
What speed does the machine run at ?
Ive a Lathe and need to resurface subaru disks but theres tons of chatter when I do them.
Cool machining work bro, but I would have got both drums off first, and machined the worst one (biggest) first. If that second drum was oversize, you have wasted your time machining the first one.....but Im just being picky
is there some reason this can't be done on a lathe?
sadly manufacturers don't have much wear on their parts anymore, case in point: Ford front brake rotor new 28 mm thick minimum thickness 26.5 mm so that's what 1.5 mm wear sadly this truly is a forgotten function except in checking warpage
I don't remember squealing being a safety issue. If the parts are still within spec squeal on.
I love watching videos about ancient technology.
May be ancient but it's satisfying to do it yourself. Sure you can buy a Chinese drum for about $20, but guys like Chris keep the art alive. Besides, he KNOWS the drum is true. Knowing what kind of perfectionist Chris is, he would likely recheck a new drum on his machine anyway. Kudos Chris, I love your common sense videos.
I'm going to say that bendpak might have wanted this video as apart of a advertisement on their website about the lathe just like his review video, and weren't happy about that little 10sec part of the video. Was it safe? No, but atleast eric went through and edited what he didn't seem to be dangerous at the time out
I walked away from a resurfacing machine.. industrial, diamond head... the stop nut came lose... in 15 minutes it ground the parts away... the V-blocks away.. and got into the mag table... that's when it started to scream. 120k in damage. They let me keep my job.. yes even i was shocked at that. Rear drums are cheap though.. a busted drum that comes apart can cause some serious damage. If it was that close.. I would have replaced it.
Nice work, thanks for sharing.