For the threaded inserts. It helps to wax them sometimes. Specifically if your putting them in fairly deep. Just helps it go in smoother, and so your not as jerky as you drive them in.
Thanks! i plan on going back and posting the older project files there as well. It's good to have them up in one consistent place. I also like to support the cause. :)
John -- I'm learning a lot from your channel. Thanks! A suggestion: Couldn't you mount all four sides of the box in the jig at once (two on the left and two on the right)? That is, the front and back sides would be stacked on top of each other and the ends would be stacked on top of each other. Then, with the length cut on the Y axis suitably increased to account for the double thickness of wood, each milling operation would cut twice as many sides. It's the way I hold work when cutting finger joints on the tablesaw and it should work on the CNC, too.
Ahhh, your timing couldn't be better! I want to actually make a few storage boxes for my van and was thinking ...box joints. So yes, you have once again inspired me to get back to the cnc as I've been busy with other things for quite a few weeks and now is the time. Thank you sir. The beauty of this jig is I can make it wider to my own sizes. Will goto CutRocket and grab those files. I would love to support your channel, can you let me know how I can do that. I appreciate your talents. Andrew
4 months later, I have a CNC with front overhang so I can incorporate your design into it. Idea for the waste blocks, they are reusable per finger size, so you could have ¼" cuts on 1 corner, ½" cuts on another, ⅛" another etc & rotate as needed. Similarly you could adapt the blocks to cut dovetails with the correct angle straight cut & a dovetail bit
I have watched all of your shapeoko videos and love the detail you go into for the projects. Would you be able to make a video showing how you make your threaded waste board and clamps? I'm waiting on my shapeoko to arrive and have no clue on how to do that lol 😅
John, Thanks for the tutorial! I finished my Home brew machine last year and want to move forward with joinery work. I don't have the capability to utilize an over-hang on my machine. I plan to remove a section of the bed itself and use a "drop-in" jig approach. I'm curious if anyone has done this with your design (modified slightly for drop-in)....Not sure if the Shapeoko design can be imported into Vectric but I'll know soon enough. Thanks Again!!
Greetings John, this is a great jig thank you. I have a CNC PIRANHA FX and use Vetrics software. I will have to make the jig as little smaller. Will the download files open in Vetric desktop do you know?
I don't think Vectric will open Carbide Create files. However, if you have a copy of Carbide Create, you can open them and export as SVG, which should open in Vectric.
What a great idea John! I downloaded the files and I have a question. In looking at the feeds and speeds I see your router speed is quite a bit slower than my DeWalt router can be set. As slow as it goes is 16,200 rpm. Do you use an external speed controller? I'm new to Shapeoko and come to it from an industrial CNC with a variable speed high frequency spindle and I'm having challenges getting the recommended chip size from my feeds and speeds calculation.
I have a terrible confession to make: My router has not been off the #2 speed in probably a year. I tend to set things by past experience (a small notebook of old settings) and by the sound of the cut. I cannot truly recommend this method, but it works for me. I would guess that whatever speeds there are in the file are the defaults from Carbide create.
Great video and tool thanks for posting for us to copy. I am getting ready to route the parts a have a small problem with sizing as I an using another program. What is the width of the backing part that will tell me if the scale is off with my program conversion. have fun Tom
Thanks for the reply, that is the number I found when moving from Carbide Creates to Inkscape as a SVG after I moved it to X 0.0 in Inkscape. It was off by about an inch if I did not make the move?? Great Project thanks again.
Hi John, I love your content and have been watching you for a while, but would you be able to share where you got the designs on the boxes at 0:25 seconds? I don't know if these are your own, or taken from somewhere else and turned into a vector, but I am really into the style. Please let me know! I've recreated these boxes at my local Fablab, and have access to an engraver. I hope to hear back from you :)
A friend etched those for me. They are all patent illustrations, so if you search for something like "drill press patent illustration" - www.google.com/search?q=drill+press+patent+illustration they should come right up. The others are a hand plane and a band saw (also patent illustrations). I never would have thought to search patent illustration, but my buddy Dave is a very clever fellow.
@@christopherhoward7587 Thanks so much. I will hopefully have new stuff going soon. 2020 has been a terrible year for creatively (and pretty much all human life).
Here goes nothing, Im about to cut this jig for myself in an attempt to make some mortise and tenon joints on my SO3XXL. Im planning to make a set of dining chairs on this machine, the hard part should be a customized version of this jig that holds the back leg so I can cut a mortise on the edge of that, I've already worked through the plan for that but I think I'll start with the "default" jig first to prove the process ha.
John I just finished watching your video on finger joints. I was wondering do you move the bit up to the edge of your board to set the xy and then on top to set the Z height. Could you take a picture of where you set that up and maybe text it to me.Jeff Peters
John I downloaded your files on this from cut rockit.com Unzipped them and found the c2d files which all open in CM all6. What I don't see is anything on the design portion as far as files. Also I don't know which file is for which part. I want to have a paper copy .to refer to so I know that I have the right size material in place. So are there and files anywhere for the design portion.
@@resorter66 Just tried downloading from Cut Rocket and everything has a .c2d file extension (meaning they are Carbide Create Files). I do know that Carbide Create does not automatically open a file when you double click it. You have to launch Carbide Create, choose Open from the File menu and then select the file to open. It's a bit of a pain, since it goes against pretty much every other program in the world, but hey... free software. Let me know if that does not work.
Glad you liked the video. I added some SVG files that you should be able to use with X-carve: www.dropbox.com/s/vrui5uxswjcchj8/Finger%20Joints%20Jig%20%2B%20SVGs.zip?dl=0
Hey John how far out from the front of the Shapeoko does the jig sit at its furthest point please? Not counting the thickness of the board your cutting.
@@johnearlclark thanks John I am building an enclosure for mine and I want to make a trap door in the bottom to slide the board through the bottom of the table so it will be closed when running. And I needed the clearance for the front door. I will email you pics when done.
I have a question on finger joints. If i want to do .25 finger joints and my board is not the proper width to get an equal number. what Happens or do I need to make an adjustment in the size of the fingers. Thanks Jeff
resorter66 it’s perfectly fine to end up with a partial finger. It should still slot together correctly. The partial may be a little bit more delicate than the others.
@@johnearlclark When you did the design for the fingers when you got to the second board how did you deal with that. Did you delete 2 fingers where to boards meet and then start selecting again
@@resorter66 On the jig I made, the two boards have about an inch of space between them. If you are cutting with more fingers than board you will need some space between your boards. Maybe a diagram will help: www.dropbox.com/s/iwrmq4xgj56av7i/fingers.jpg?dl=0
Hi James. Thanks for checking on me. :) I was at DragonCon over the Labor Day weekend and ended up with a 2 week case of Con Crud. I should be rolling out something new in the next week.
@@johnearlclark I just bought the Shapeoko XXL looking forward to getting it and after watching all your videos I am confident it will be just fine! I am glad your feeling better and look forward to seeing your new videos! thank you so much for all the wonderful work and teaching you do!
Thank you so much for sharing. This did give me some inspiration. Glad I found your channel.
Wow! You explain this so well! Thanks for teaching me!
Thanks so much. That is my favorite thing to hear.
Appreciate you sharing your passion for CNC, great videos John! Cheers
Awesome video ..learning everyday 👍🍻
Another top notch video John! Thank you.
As per usual, very nice work. Thank you, sir.
This is genius. Very well thought out!
Amazing I love your work!!!
For the threaded inserts. It helps to wax them sometimes. Specifically if your putting them in fairly deep. Just helps it go in smoother, and so your not as jerky as you drive them in.
John, thank you for your reply. I will look into Carbide Create and give it try.
Keep making these great videos.
Thanks John - very informative - Stay Safe Pat ☘️
Great project - thanks for posting to cutrocket as well!
Thanks! i plan on going back and posting the older project files there as well. It's good to have them up in one consistent place. I also like to support the cause. :)
@@johnearlclark When Might you be posting other files on cut rocket.
John -- I'm learning a lot from your channel. Thanks!
A suggestion: Couldn't you mount all four sides of the box in the jig at once (two on the left and two on the right)? That is, the front and back sides would be stacked on top of each other and the ends would be stacked on top of each other. Then, with the length cut on the Y axis suitably increased to account for the double thickness of wood, each milling operation would cut twice as many sides. It's the way I hold work when cutting finger joints on the tablesaw and it should work on the CNC, too.
I will have to give that a try. I am mostly using thin stock so it should be pretty easy to do. Thanks.
Thank you, I love your videos, I made one with the tablesaw and dado blade technique. But I like yours better
Ahhh, your timing couldn't be better! I want to actually make a few storage boxes for my van and was thinking ...box joints. So yes, you have once again inspired me to get back to the cnc as I've been busy with other things for quite a few weeks and now is the time. Thank you sir. The beauty of this jig is I can make it wider to my own sizes. Will goto CutRocket and grab those files. I would love to support your channel, can you let me know how I can do that. I appreciate your talents. Andrew
Just glad to have subscribers. I am happy you like the vids. :)
Great video, good use of vertical mounting, I can try incorporate into my CNC, I don't have overhang, so I'll make & chop into 2 piece wasteboard
4 months later, I have a CNC with front overhang so I can incorporate your design into it. Idea for the waste blocks, they are reusable per finger size, so you could have ¼" cuts on 1 corner, ½" cuts on another, ⅛" another etc & rotate as needed. Similarly you could adapt the blocks to cut dovetails with the correct angle straight cut & a dovetail bit
I have watched all of your shapeoko videos and love the detail you go into for the projects. Would you be able to make a video showing how you make your threaded waste board and clamps? I'm waiting on my shapeoko to arrive and have no clue on how to do that lol 😅
I will see what I can do. Glad you like the videos.
John, Thanks for the tutorial! I finished my Home brew machine last year and want to move forward with joinery work. I don't have the capability to utilize an over-hang on my machine. I plan to remove a section of the bed itself and use a "drop-in" jig approach. I'm curious if anyone has done this with your design (modified slightly for drop-in)....Not sure if the Shapeoko design can be imported into Vectric but I'll know soon enough. Thanks Again!!
merci
John What was your reason for setting the file up to touch off in the middle of your board like you show in your video.
Greetings John, this is a great jig thank you.
I have a CNC PIRANHA FX and use Vetrics software. I will have to make the jig as little smaller.
Will the download files open in Vetric desktop do you know?
I don't think Vectric will open Carbide Create files. However, if you have a copy of Carbide Create, you can open them and export as SVG, which should open in Vectric.
What a great idea John! I downloaded the files and I have a question. In looking at the feeds and speeds I see your router speed is quite a bit slower than my DeWalt router can be set. As slow as it goes is 16,200 rpm. Do you use an external speed controller? I'm new to Shapeoko and come to it from an industrial CNC with a variable speed high frequency spindle and I'm having challenges getting the recommended chip size from my feeds and speeds calculation.
I have a terrible confession to make: My router has not been off the #2 speed in probably a year. I tend to set things by past experience (a small notebook of old settings) and by the sound of the cut. I cannot truly recommend this method, but it works for me. I would guess that whatever speeds there are in the file are the defaults from Carbide create.
John Clark thanks for the reply. I’d like to get to that place as well. Just anxious to flatten the learning curve
Great video and tool thanks for posting for us to copy. I am getting ready to route the parts a have a small problem with sizing as I an using another program. What is the width of the backing part that will tell me if the scale is off with my program conversion.
have fun
Tom
Looks like 14.75 inches by 7 inches.
Thanks for the reply, that is the number I found when moving from Carbide Creates to Inkscape as a SVG after I moved it to X 0.0 in Inkscape. It was off by about an inch if I did not make the move?? Great Project thanks again.
Hi John,
I love your content and have been watching you for a while, but would you be able to share where you got the designs on the boxes at 0:25 seconds? I don't know if these are your own, or taken from somewhere else and turned into a vector, but I am really into the style. Please let me know! I've recreated these boxes at my local Fablab, and have access to an engraver. I hope to hear back from you :)
A friend etched those for me. They are all patent illustrations, so if you search for something like "drill press patent illustration" - www.google.com/search?q=drill+press+patent+illustration they should come right up. The others are a hand plane and a band saw (also patent illustrations). I never would have thought to search patent illustration, but my buddy Dave is a very clever fellow.
@@johnearlclark
Beautiful, thanks a lot!
Can't wait for new content!
@@christopherhoward7587 Thanks so much. I will hopefully have new stuff going soon. 2020 has been a terrible year for creatively (and pretty much all human life).
Here goes nothing, Im about to cut this jig for myself in an attempt to make some mortise and tenon joints on my SO3XXL. Im planning to make a set of dining chairs on this machine, the hard part should be a customized version of this jig that holds the back leg so I can cut a mortise on the edge of that, I've already worked through the plan for that but I think I'll start with the "default" jig first to prove the process ha.
Very nice! Please let me know how it turns out.
John I just finished watching your video on finger joints. I was wondering do you move the bit up to the edge of your board to set the xy and then on top to set the Z height. Could you take a picture of where you set that up and maybe text it to me.Jeff Peters
Here is an image of the alignment. Please let me know if this helps: www.dropbox.com/s/rqrr07maskyxvgt/bitposition.png?dl=0
@@johnearlclark Yes that did help
John I downloaded your files on this from cut rockit.com
Unzipped them and found the c2d files which all open in CM all6. What I don't see is anything on the design portion as far as files. Also I don't know which file is for which part. I want to have a paper copy .to refer to so I know that I have the right size
material in place. So are there and files anywhere for the design portion.
@@resorter66 Just tried downloading from Cut Rocket and everything has a .c2d file extension (meaning they are Carbide Create Files). I do know that Carbide Create does not automatically open a file when you double click it. You have to launch Carbide Create, choose Open from the File menu and then select the file to open. It's a bit of a pain, since it goes against pretty much every other program in the world, but hey... free software. Let me know if that does not work.
@@johnearlclark You have posted 6 sheets can you tell me are they in order with the pictures
Très bonne vidéo on peux faire avec x-caver CNC ou plan merci
Glad you liked the video. I added some SVG files that you should be able to use with X-carve: www.dropbox.com/s/vrui5uxswjcchj8/Finger%20Joints%20Jig%20%2B%20SVGs.zip?dl=0
Hey John how far out from the front of the Shapeoko does the jig sit at its furthest point please? Not counting the thickness of the board your cutting.
Not counting the board. It's 4 inches. So figure between 4 and 5 when loaded. Does that make sense?
@@johnearlclark thanks John I am building an enclosure for mine and I want to make a trap door in the bottom to slide the board through the bottom of the table so it will be closed when running. And I needed the clearance for the front door. I will email you pics when done.
@@JANDLWOODWORKING That sounds really cool! I look forward to seeing it!
I have a question on finger joints. If i want to do .25 finger joints and my board is not the proper width to get an equal number. what Happens or do I need to make an adjustment in the size of the fingers. Thanks Jeff
resorter66 it’s perfectly fine to end up with a partial finger. It should still slot together correctly. The partial may be a little bit more delicate than the others.
@@johnearlclark When you did the design for the fingers when you got to the second board how did you deal with that. Did you delete 2 fingers where to boards meet and then start selecting again
@@resorter66 On the jig I made, the two boards have about an inch of space between them. If you are cutting with more fingers than board you will need some space between your boards. Maybe a diagram will help: www.dropbox.com/s/iwrmq4xgj56av7i/fingers.jpg?dl=0
Hope all is OK John have not seen you for a while!!
Hi James. Thanks for checking on me. :) I was at DragonCon over the Labor Day weekend and ended up with a 2 week case of Con Crud. I should be rolling out something new in the next week.
@@johnearlclark I just bought the Shapeoko XXL looking forward to getting it and after watching all your videos I am confident it will be just fine! I am glad your feeling better and look forward to seeing your new videos! thank you so much for all the wonderful work and teaching you do!