I’ve got a Shapeoko on the way to my house and I’ve been doing a ton of research on this kind of thing. This is the best introduction video I’ve found so far for a start to finish project! I’m going to follow every step! Thanks!
John Clark yeah for sure. I’ve got a woodworking channel too and I’ll definitely be using some of the things I learned from you and mentioning your channel if you don’t mind.
John, Thanks for the instructions for making the boxes. I used your ideas to make a box to hold my Wixley Digital Angle Gauge (DAG). The Wixley DAG has been in its original plastic container for 3 years. After watching your videos I decided to try them out and made a box for a permanent home for the DAG. I put a tribal butterfly on top. My first 2 prototypes were good but did not hold the DAG so I made more v carving on top of them and gave them away to some kids. They loved the little boxes. Thanks for sharing. I have a lot of recycled 1 inch Red Oak boards and will be making more boxes to give away. I have made clocks and other small items for the Habitat for Humanity Restore in Nacagodoches Texas in the past and will be donating some of the boxes to them.
Finally a channel whit out bullshit and right to the point, perfect for a person like me that is trying to merge into the cnc world, Thank you so much, hope you post more vcarve videos using carbide create, Thanks again. you just earned a new subscriber
You're welcome sir. U just keep making and my mind will be taking whatsoever you will be creating. I'll be waiting anytime you are starting. God bless u sir thanks
Good morning John. I have really got a lot of help from your vids and wanted to say thank you. I have discovered that if you design the box from the inside out... the copies will maintain the filet radius you need without having to piece in the corners for the top and bottom to fit properly. I also found if it take my lip for the bottom down .001 I get a struggle free fit. The only thing is when doing it this way my fillet radius continually increases until I get to the cutout. I can usually live with this. Again thanks so much for taking the time and keep em coming. Dave
Interesting. I have not tried it that way. When I was going out to in, I would always end up with sharp corners. I had not thought to go from the inside out. It's a good solution because you know the inner piece will have the minimum corner space for the bit and everything else should be slightly larger. Very cool!
John Clark hey john. I am an absolute beginner but I have been working with wood for 40 years. I have a business reproducing antique furniture. I had a wrath of questions... maybe too many! I’d love the opportunity to chat at some point. I certainly don’t want to infringe on your privacy so if you be ok with it... send me a message request. Dave Baird Edmonton Alberta Canada River lane Ranch. If you don’t want me bothering you from time to time I fully understand. Again... vids are great and have been very helpful Dave
@@hbdcustomwoodworking6116 I would be happy to chat. I have also been a woodworker for about 15 years. I cannot figure out from the TH-cam interface how to do a message request, but if you go to the "about" tab on my channel there is a business inquiries email and you are welcome to use that.
@@hbdcustomwoodworking6116 Should be the second section down, where is says "Details." There should be a "Show Email Address" button. It does make you go through the "I am not a robot" quiz. Once you finish the quiz, click submit and it will show the address. Let me know if it's not there so I can fix it.
Thanks to you Sir John. I will soon be A proud cnc machine owner A Shapeoko it looks like, thanks to you. You do a Great Job, your easy on the ears. I'm sure you know what I'm saying there. Hope all"s well your way it is 12-18-2019 now.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I am glad you enjoy the videos. I am running around like a crazy person for the holidays and looking forward to collapsing in a pile on the weekend. Best to you!
Thanks so much for all your great videos. I am new to this and the biggest problem has been learning CC. Your videos have explained a lot of things that I couldn’t find answers to elsewhere. I look forward to learning more from you.
Getting my first Shapeoko 3 next week. I really appreciate these "How to" videos. Easy to follow. My biggest problem will be all the trees I have to kill to make everything I have envisioned.
John When I hold down the Ctrl key and click on the circle inside the square, (around 9:18 in the video) nothing happens. I have tried this several times and cannot get it to work. I have carbide create Build 520 and the GUI is slightly different from yours. Can you give me any help on why this is happening? I have the free version. Is this why it is not working?
You can. I like to sand mine to try and sneak up on a good friction fit. It's good to experiment and see what gives you a good fit (maybe a few hundredths at a time until you are happy with it). The annoying thing is that wood wants to move over time and round boxes are a particular problem as they want to oval just slightly. They can get stuck.
Hi John, thanks for your time in making these videos. I don't know if you've figured this out yet, but you can save yourself a lot of time if you design the square boxes from the inside pocket, out. CC lets you add filet corners to any polygon you make (square rectangle, whatever). If you start with the inside pocket, set the filet to slightly larger than your tool radius (slightly larger so there's less cutter engagement in the corner for a better quality cut). From there, just use the offset path tool going OUTWARDS, and they'll have a complimentary filet in the corners. Just a thought, as it does save some time. Have a great day!
That's also a good option. Unfortunately, at the time I made this, there was a bug in Carbide Create where the outer offset would drop the corner radius (It has since been fixed). The radius also grows with each outline, which is not always what you are going for (I tend to like a more subtle rounding on the outside). I am glad you like the videos and I do appreciate the feedback. It's always nice to see other ways to do things.
In most cases, I prefer to sneak up on the fit with a hand plane, but I sometimes do a .002 offset. It's definitely something to play with and I do mention it in newer videos.
In Carbide Create it's the scroll wheel on the mouse. There is also a reset view option under the view window which will return everything to the size of the window. If you only have a trackpad, you can probably do a two finger scroll to zoom. it always zooms relative to where your mouse pointer is. Does that help?
Hi John . thank you for your help on making boxes my wife is trying to make your round boxes along with oval boxes. however they do not fit into each other. the inside lip needs to be reduced just a little to fit can you help her?
Hi Clay. Sorry for the late response. You can select the circle for the inside lip (The second of the 3 circles) and shrink it by about .05 using the height or width boxes. See if that's enough.
I have a 14x9x3/4" piece of leftover birch plywood. Could I at least run a test on this material and then use the better wood like your selection knowing I've really locked down all the parameters?
Certainly. That's exactly what I did starting out. Things like plywood and MDF are great to experiment with and get settings dialed in. One thing to keep in mind is that 3/4 plywood is almost never actually .75 inches, (I have seen everything from .7 to .65) so a set of calipers is a must for getting a true measurement. The machine thinks in terms of 1000ths of an inch, so you need to as well. Birch ply is a great way to test ideas and get used to the machine and how tight the tolerance is for a project.
I find a lot of things at the WikiCommons images site: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images I also get a lot of things from Shutterstock (www.shutterstock.com) which has much higher quality images and the artists get paid for their work. I believe Etsy also has a ton of SVG images available at a very reasonable price.
I will see what I can do. The basics are kind of the same as with the four corners: Duplicate the piece you want to trim the corners on (say a hexagon). Create a circle the size of your bit and position it just inside the corner so that it just touches the sides. Select the piece you want to trim and then hold command and select the circle (the circle should be a dotted line). Use the subtract tool to clip the circle out of the piece. This should leave you with a little corner piece you can use to trim the original. Hope this helps and I will try to work this into an upcoming video.
that is well explained,very easy to understand even for a newby,i'm just wondering if this program can act somewhat like a cad program for creating those rounded corners,if you draw your first square,round those corners first and then make the offset..will it take over those rounded corners?just wondering :-),great video by the way
Hi David. You can round the corners in newer versions of Carbide Create using the "fillet" option from the drop down. However this is only available for the square tool. The offset is a good option, but remember that inner offsets will have a smaller radius to the corner and outer offsets will have a larger one. If you are offsetting inside by a large amount, the rounded corner just goes back to being a sharp 90 degrees. I use it for a lot of things, you just need to confirm with the simulator that things are going to cut as expected.
Hey John,I have a question. Do you have a way to put a small lip to the edge of the front of the box to be able to open it ,top and bottom lip? The small grove in the middle joint? I'm able to do it on the Bottom lip using VCarve, but can't make it work on the Top lip.
If I am understanding correctly, you want a bit of a ridge on the lip itself? This requires a bit of a visual explanation. I posted up an image here www.dropbox.com/s/as6bii1gd54m5rr/Explainer.jpg?dl=0 Let me know if that is what you are looking for and if it makes sense.
Ernest Boyda I about wore your video out. Your very clear on instructions, but no mater what I do with my MAC I can not get the filet where you use the circle and square to make the fillets. Sometimes the circle is dashed or one quarter is completely dashed. I'm about ready to dump the Shapeko. Can you supply any clues?
Hey Ernest. Please don't give up. I know it's a bit of a learning curve, but hopefully I can help you out. I made a short little explainer on the filets and the dashed lines (it's outside the regular feed). Take a look and let me know if this makes things a little clearer. th-cam.com/video/9rlx8G82JLw/w-d-xo.html
Hi John. Great Videos (love the commentary). My husband and I are counting down the days for our shapeoko to arrive. While we wait we have been planning out some projects and this is one I am really excited to try. I was wondering if you could give me an idea of what bits we "need" to get started on this and other beginner projects? I understand some things like the differences between carbide and HSS bits, but I want to focus on some essentials to get started. Thanks!
Hi Candace! So glad you enjoyed the videos. If you plan on working with wood, I suggest down-cut bits. They tend to leave a much cleaner cut on wood. I use these in both quarter and eight inch versions: www.amazon.com/dp/B072J4CPQT I would also pick up a v-carve bit for doing designs like the ones on the box tops. I have this one (60 degrees) : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4NSYG and a 90 degree V-bit I got from Carbide 3D with my machine. Those are the 3 bits (quarter, eighth and either a 60 or 90 degree V-bit) I use the most often. I am finishing up a video on the heart shaped box this week and then I plan on doing a 3 part "Starting From Ground Zero" set for folks who are new to all this. Keep an eye out for those starting next month (I hope). I welcome both you and your husband to the rabbit hole. It's a lot of fun. Feel free to ask questions.
I have not done much with Oak, but I would like to. You would definitely want a downcut bit for that otherwise I expect it would splinter quite a bit. I tend to like the way oak looks on larger pieces because of the strong grain pattern.
Hola, no se preocupe. Mi inglés es muy básico, lo siento. Pero acá en mi país todo iba bien hasta hace una semana, se vienen cambios importantes que nos afectarán de una u otra manera, pero así como hemos salidos de grandes terremotos, aluviones, volcanes ...etc, estoy seguro que también saldremos de está incertidumbre política más bien. Ahora con respecto a sus trabajos, los he visto en estos días y admiro mucho su dedicación, prolijidad y creaciones. Muy hermosos todos. Yo mi pasatiempo es un pequeño router CNC que adquirí hace poco, me emociona el tema es muy entretenido. Espero pronto hacer algo como lo que UD hace, estoy en eso. Solo es mi pasatiempo pero me encanta que pronto estaré dedicado a tiempo completo a esto. Saludos, Rodrigo
@@rodrigocorona5900 Leí un poco sobre los eventos actuales en Chile y parece que están ocurriendo muchos cambios. Aquí en los Estados Unidos también estoy viendo a mi país decidir su futuro y estoy un poco ansioso por el resultado. Comparto su esperanza de que todos saldremos mejor de este cambio. Gracias por sus amables palabras sobre mi trabajo. Me alegra que lo disfrutes. Las máquinas CNC son muy divertidas. Sé que disfrutarás el tuyo. Cuidate. John Clark
@@johnearlclark , Si también estoy atento a lo que pasa en EEUU algún día sueño con manejar por esas autopistas. Mi trabajo acá es manejar camiones para la compañía más grande distribuidora de combustibles de mi país, por muchos años. Pero a mis 42 años no he perdido la esperanza de algún día trabajar en un país desarrollado como lo es su país o Canadá, está en mis planes sobretodo si en mi país las cosas ya no son tan prósperas. Me cree una cuenta en Instagram hoy y aparezco como rcoronar42 lo sigo y me gustaría compartir con ud algunos trabajos que he realizado con mi mini router CNC y en relación a mi pasión por los camiones. Es un Instagram creado reciéntemente y subiré algunas cosas que realizó en mi tiempo libre. Espero le gusten. Saludos Rodrigo Corona
Great video! I was able to follow along a make a circular box. I tried it on a 0.75" piece of pine for a used walnut or maple. Do you think a laminated 1.5" of walnut would hold together during cnc milling? I am a newbie to cnc. This would be my second cut on my Shapeoko XXL.
It should. What did you glue it with? One thing I would definitely suggest is extra clamps on something that thick -- less to hold it down and more to keep it from moving side to side on the waste board.
@@keithpruitt2204 Cool. I am a huge fan of Tightbond Glue. I have done a lot of wood turning with laminated pieces. I figure if I can spin it at 1800 rpms and nothing horrific happens, the glue is going to hold up to pretty much anything. :)
You can. However, I use the offset path tool a lot and once you create the offset, there is no option to fillet (or control height and width, which is also a drag). The fillet also only works on squares so I wanted to show some different options. I like to make weird boxes. :)
Hey John! Your videos are a great help for me. I need a little more help on where to find certain files for the cnc machine. I really love the way your circular boxes came out. But I am having trouble finding those awesome looking patterns for circle boxes.
If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can do a shallow pocket pass over the stock (1 or 2 mm at a time). Once the side is flat, flip the board and do the other side. If you have an old router bit, like a 3/4, it goes pretty quickly.
When Cutting lips that overlap, I did not notice any difference in size. Does the difference between and outer cut and inner cut provide enough space to allow and overlap?
Sometimes I will sand or plane to fit, but you can also drop a few hundredths off to get things to sit correctly. It's whichever suits your process. The real bear is the wood movement, which seems to hit the round boxes hardest. If they oval even slightly, the lid can stick.
I try to allow enough wiggle room for wood movement. The key is making sure the wood is fully dry before routing. Even then, the round boxes tend to be a bit more finicky than the rectangular ones.
@@TheForestBob Yes. On the round or square boxes I drop a couple thousands off. It depends a lot on how long I have had the wood, how thick it was and how dry it is. On boxes with a magnet catch, there really is no need for a truly tight fit. On the rectangular boxes, they run with the grain and seem to be less prone to movement issues.
how important is dust suction for these? I am thinking about attempting these but wondering if dust collecting in the box will be a problem since I don't have a dust boot currently.
Good morning John I just watched you video here on making boxes. I also have a Shapeoko XXl .Very good video. I saw in the intro that there was a Heart shaped Box. I am wondering if you did a video on it If so where can I find it, If not have you made one and might be willing to share how you did the design in Carbide Create. Thanks Jeff
Hello. I have not done a video for that one yet, but I need to. It's really the same principles as the other boxes: An initial shape and some offsets. However in this case, the initial shape was a heart SVG file I imported into carbide create. I am sure there is a way to create a heart shape directly in carbide create using the Bézier curve tool, but only dark wizards and graphic designers understand how that works. ;) I went ahead and posted my cut files up at: www.dropbox.com/s/jxtuc160skantvx/heart%20shaped%20box%204.75.c2d.zip?dl=0 You will need to tweak them to fit your stock size. I will also try to get a video up for that soon.
What's is the max height of the bit (cut dimension depth) you use for a bit.... I do you have 2" depth bits?... Do you have a link for bits?.. I will appreciate it a lot
The tallest ones I can find right now seem to be from Spektra and have a cutting length of one and a quarter inches. I could swear they used to make them longer, but I cannot find them.
Hi John, on my multeenth time creating the simple box in Carbide Create as I try to learn the program. Making good headway I think. Regarding the rounding of the corners on the lip line rectangle (middle line of the three). I have experimented with creating that lip line first, with a .125 fillet and then using the offset path tool to create both the outer box and the pocket. This appears to work as a simple way to get rounded corners, I needed to created the initial rectangle .34" smaller than the desired box size. What do you think?
zeyeam that should work just fine. The version of Carbide Create I was using at the time didn’t have filets but they seem to be much better in the current versions. Just remember to keep your pieces centered on each other and it should work out well.
Hey John thanks again I do have a question. The heart shaped box I was going to do for my daughters birthday gift but I do not see the tool path. Did do something wrong?
Thanks Kim! I usually go to a local lumber yard. If you are in the Atlanta area, I recommend The Woodyard in Concord, and Carlton's Rare Woods & Veneers. Otherwise, a Google search for "hardwood dealers near me" usually works. I have also had good luck with ebay sellers and Green Valley Wood Products (www.gvwp.net/) or Ocooch Hardwoods (ocoochhardwoods.com/). One thing to note is that most lumber places sell by the "board foot," which basically means cubic measurements -- A one inch thick board, six inches wide and two feet long is considered one board foot. It's a little weird at first, but you get used to it. Hope this helps.
Thanks John! I'm in PA but there are a few local lumberyards and also lumber mills so I'll check those out and also the other sources you shared. Thanks so much for your help! Its a great video you made!
When we were in the States a few years back, we stopped off at a WoodCraft Store. In the back they had a ton of odds & sods, which at the time, we scored many for our Pen Turning. Lots of Exotic woods.
There may be Woodcraft but it is better to look for a full-service wood supply shop if you are lucky enough to have one nearby. I've got an amazing example of such a shop within driving distance, they ship stuff and have an online store. www.kencraftcompany.com/
Hey Kim. I got a message that you were looking for the files. I have posted one of the boxes up here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 Let me know if you have any questions. Also let me know how it turns out.
Thanks Sandy. There isn't a group here per se, but there is a Facebook group: facebook.com/groups/unofficialshapeoko and the regular Carbide Create Group community.carbide3d.com/
Hi Kent. There is a wonderful place South of me in Concord, GA called The Woodyard. www.thewoodyard.com/ It's a really great bunch of guys and very helpful. They keep a fair amount of stuff on Ebay too: www.ebay.com/usr/thewoodyardga If you are not in the Georgia area, I would do a search on hardwood lumber nearby. You might be surprised.
Hi John. This is fantastic. You shared the heart box file with me and it came out perfect. My wife now cuts it out with no problem. Is there any way you would share both the round box and the angled box files with me? It is so cool to do this with my wife. Thank you- Clay Elder Jr
Hi Clay. The round box is here: www.dropbox.com/s/a4jracouoqntxaf/4_point_2_inch_round_box.c2d.zip?dl=0 The top designs are ones that I bought from Shutterstock, so I can't share them. If you are looking for the hex shaped box I need to search through my files for that one. I have not cut it in a while. Is that the one you mean when you say the angled box? Just let me know and I will take a look.
Thanks Girard! Typically I just use a piece of 1/4 MDF or some cardboard to raise the work piece slightly. It's best with wood to have something behind it when you cut through. Otherwise it tends to splinter and make a mess of the edges.
@@johnearlclark Thanks, I have aluminum plates from Ohio Diesel and don't want to ruin the aluminum surface during the cutout process. Any advice you can share? This is my first CNC / Software experience and currently on the Shapeoko 3 XXL building process. I hear of many beginners (TH-camers) having mistakes and pluckerup the waste/spoil board on their projects.
@@IFLYRCHELICOPTERS I would go with 1/4 MDF under the material you are cutting and a decent set of dial calipers to make sure you are accurate on the thickness of your material. I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5XJW7I I hope this helps.
Hi Karl, I am using a 1/4 inch end mill and the standard speeds out of Carbide Create (0.092 Depth per pass, 75 in feedrate, 12.50 plunge rate). What are you using?
Hi John, I really enjoyed the video on making boxes Did I hear that I might be able to get the file from you for the rectangular box? If so, how can I get it? Thank You-Clay
Hi Clay. Sure thing. The box files are here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 Let me know if you have any questions about them. Just remember to adjust them to the size of your stock.
I believe you mentioned willingness to send the file for your basic box to someone. I have tried to follow your video on this box and comfort food. I for the life of me can't seem to get it right. Lots of error in my trial and error. Don't know if it's my machine (Bob's cnc) or me.
@@JustinSmith-fg1qt All of my files are Carbide Create files www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 so I don't know if they will help you much. I would be interested to know what problems you are seeing when you make boxes (alignment issues?). If you can send me a photo of the end result I may be able to diagnose what is happening. You can use the business enquiry email in my profile.
If you can send me some pictures of the box, maybe I can help you figure out what is happening. You can use the business enquiries email address on this page: th-cam.com/users/johnearlclarkabout
Hi there John, Thanks for these videos on boxes...they are great, you do such a such job designing them. I am currently waiting for my XXL to arrive in the next couple of days as well. I am taking in the different approaches to using these machines and I have to say you do such an amazing job at explaining thing, the ins and outs of why you do what you do. Now I have to try and teach this old brain to remember this stuff. I guess it all takes time and patience? Anyways I look forward to watching your other videos. Just new to your channel yesterday so I did subscribe. Have any suggestions where to purchase the cutter bits etc? Thanks again very much. Andrew
Thanks Andrew! I get my bits from Amazon. If you plan on working with wood, I suggest down-cut bits. They tend to leave a much cleaner cut on wood. I use these in both quarter and eight inch versions: www.amazon.com/dp/B072J4CPQT I would also pick up a v-carve bit for doing designs like the ones on the box tops. I have this one (60 degrees) : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4NSYG and a 90 degree V-bit I got from Carbide 3D with my machine. Those are the 3 bits (quarter, eighth and either a 60 or 90 degree V-bit) I use the most often. -- PS: at the tender age of 55 I would say that old brains tend to do just fine :)
Usually I charge about $30 to $40 for boxes. Somewhere in that range. I honestly don’t make a lot of effort to sell things but some folks ask so that tends to be the price range. Most of my work is given to friends and family.
How did you convert the file? I downloaded from shutterstock and it was an .EPS file. I converted to svg on convertio but when I make a toolpath in carbide create and do a simulation some of the design is missing. Should I convert to a different file type? Thanks!
Hi John. I bought my shapeoko 3 about 6 weeks ago. I can't find the fillet option. I paused and went into the move feature selection and I only have the size in x and y current size shown below that and then apply and done. There's no fillet option. Do you have carbine pro or an older version that used to have that feature? I could add them manually but that's a nice feature I would like to use. Thanks for your help.
In the recent versions of Carbide Create they stopped labeling the drop down as "filet" for some reason. After you draw or select a square, you will see a drop down under the height and width that says "square" (which is not terribly helpful since that is what you just drew). That drop down has your filet options. It's not very intuitive.
@@johnearlclark thanks for the help. I just checked and below the width and height I only have apply and done. So something isn't correct here but I appreciate your help. Thanks for the videos. These have been a great help.
@@johnearlclark for whatever reason I've been noticing some glitches in my carbide create software. Maybe I should uninstall and then redownload it. A recent example I was designing my wasteboard and included line segments in a one inch by one inch grid and I know I saved it and random ones were missing and I remember the way I drew them so I know what order they should be in if I forgot to save before exiting. Just weird little quirks.
@@johnearlclark i'll have to check when I assembled it about 2months ago upon receiving it in the mail I downloaded what I thought was the latest version on Carbide 3D's website. But the instructions were terrible for assembling the machine. My only complaint really about it. That and needing to drill out the paint in the 4 hole on the carriage plates that the x axis gantry mounts to in order to get z axis rails square front to back. The bolts were very difficult to thread into the aluminum rails because of this but it's minor and easily fixed. I'm currently a Quality Engineer at a manufacturing company in wisconsin but a decade ago I was a tool and die maker apprentice for about 3 years and ran CNC milling machines along with many other machines to make fixtures and tooling components. So i'm a lil rusty but definitely experienced with cnc machining and g-codes.
John I have a problem . I went to the cutrocket and found your files on the heart shaped box. I saw that it came in inches. I viewed it in inches and downloaded it and I got MM So how do I get the inches version. Thanks Jeff
When you open the file in Carbide Create, you can click the little gear in the upper left corner of the window. You should see a small section for units down towards the bottom. You can switch from MM to inches there. Hope this helps. -John
@@johnearlclark Yes it did and as soon as I saw this post it all came back I have not used CC since I Bought vcarve pro. Thanks .this file opens in CC if you click the icon twice.un like the file for the finger joint jig
@@johnearlclark yes I am. I am still trying to sort out your files about the finger joint jig. Which file goes with which pictures I want to cut the joints vertically off the front of my xxl .jeff
@@resorter66 Unfortunately, CutRocket randomly assigns those numbers to the files. It is not the most helpful thing in the world. I am not even sure what they are. I posted a set with helpful names here: www.dropbox.com/s/036dzrxiw8oc8ae/Finger%20Joints%20Jig.zip?dl=0
Hi Rinus. I still make movies just not very frequently. I think the last one was about a month ago ( th-cam.com/users/johnearlclark ) .Since the pandemic hit, being creative is really a struggle. Hopefully I will get back to it soon. The files for the lizard box are here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0
@@johnearlclark John, I'm fine thanks. My wife also. Here in the Netherlands it's getting worse again. I'm struggling to find a good design. Can't think of anything else. Stupid maybe.
@@Epoxy-Inlays Sadly I am over in the USA, where it never stopped being bad. My country elected a fool to be President. Hopefully we will do better next time.
Im using this carbide thing as well and I dont get the same cut at all fallowed your steps and using 1/8 bit and no go Also when I try to square the circle and I use the retracting bolean thing nothing happens or I get a copy Also its not crt its shift yea this doesnt work at all for me
One thing to note with recent versions of Carbide Create: When you subtract one shape from another, instead of disappearing, the subtracting shape stays where it was. I think the idea was that you could subtract a shape, move it to a new location and subtract it again and again (which is great for making slots). However, from a usability standpoint it's kind of awful as it makes it seem like the subtraction didn't do anything.
@@johnearlclark Thanks yes I got it to work yes I have a newer version Thank you for this video Ive been wanting to make a box with a lip I can make them with magnets ok but I wanted to learn how to with the lip .
@@johnearlclark Hi John I'm trying like your doing but I dont get that lip for some reason Part 1 the cut is on the outside box 2 the cut is on the inside to get the lip but something im doing wrong I cant get the lip
I seem to recall the tele being a hair under 16 inches and the shapeoko 3 being right around there ? There are some dwg files floating around the internet. Electricherald & TDPRI are good resources.
Under Job Setup - Edit, I have to set grid spacing to 0.250 or it drives me crazy. I only use inches but it defaults to 5mm (0.197 in.) grid for the grid.
I am with you. Some of the defaults seem wildly arbitrary and I wish there was a way to change them. The only thing I can suggest is making a "pseudo-template" file with the settings the way you like and then always open that file first and do "save as" (or duplicated it). Not a great solution, but doable. I am hoping Carbide can afford to focus some additional resources on this in the near future. It serves me well for about 90% of what I do, but that last 10% can get really annoying.
Which Facebook shapeoko group are you discussing. I saw several groups with Shapeoko in the name. I thought I joined one, but do not see it. I would love to get access to the files you uploaded. skip....
There is a wonderful place South of me in Concord, GA called The Woodyard. www.thewoodyard.com/ It's a really great bunch of guys and very helpful. They keep a fair amount of stuff on Ebay too: www.ebay.com/usr/thewoodyardga If you are not in the Georgia area, I would do a search on hardwood lumber nearby. You might be surprised.
🤩🤩So beautiful, and comprehensive! I have never seen software like this before. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, that was informative. I've ordered my cnc machine and am anxiously awaiting it's arrival.
I’ve got a Shapeoko on the way to my house and I’ve been doing a ton of research on this kind of thing. This is the best introduction video I’ve found so far for a start to finish project! I’m going to follow every step! Thanks!
Thanks so much. I am glad the videos help!
John Clark yeah for sure. I’ve got a woodworking channel too and I’ll definitely be using some of the things I learned from you and mentioning your channel if you don’t mind.
@@weberwoodshop Very much appreciated. I subscribed to your channel as well. You make some very nice looking things and I can't wait to explore. :)
Thanks for all your help! You broke it down for newbies and very easy to understand. .Keep up the great work .
John, Thanks for the instructions for making the boxes. I used your ideas to make a box to hold my Wixley Digital Angle Gauge (DAG). The Wixley DAG has been in its original plastic container for 3 years. After watching your videos I decided to try them out and made a box for a permanent home for the DAG. I put a tribal butterfly on top. My first 2 prototypes were good but did not hold the DAG so I made more v carving on top of them and gave them away to some kids. They loved the little boxes. Thanks for sharing. I have a lot of recycled 1 inch Red Oak boards and will be making more boxes to give away. I have made clocks and other small items for the Habitat for Humanity Restore in Nacagodoches Texas in the past and will be donating some of the boxes to them.
Thanks so much G! I was glad I was able to help and it's always nice seeing someone give back to the community. The Habitat folks are amazing.
Hi John, I appreciate your teaching speed and clarity. Thanks a bunch
Finally a channel whit out bullshit and right to the point, perfect for a person like me that is trying to merge into the cnc world, Thank you so much, hope you post more vcarve videos using carbide create, Thanks again. you just earned a new subscriber
You're welcome sir. U just keep making and my mind will be taking whatsoever you will be creating. I'll be waiting anytime you are starting. God bless u sir thanks
I'm just starting out with CNC and your videos have inspired me the most. Thank you! How do I find files for designs like this especially 3d files?
I would try Etsy: www.etsy.com/market/cnc_stl_files
A finally I got it after trial and errors and using the shapeoko software i got a box Thank you John
Awesome! Trail and error is my middle name. I got where I am by breaking oh so many thing. :)
Thanks John, followed your tutorial and the box came out perfect!
Thanks so much. That is really nice to hear.
Excellent video thank you for sharing in great detail.
Good morning John. I have really got a lot of help from your vids and wanted to say thank you. I have discovered that if you design the box from the inside out... the copies will maintain the filet radius you need without having to piece in the corners for the top and bottom to fit properly. I also found if it take my lip for the bottom down .001 I get a struggle free fit. The only thing is when doing it this way my fillet radius continually increases until I get to the cutout. I can usually live with this. Again thanks so much for taking the time and keep em coming.
Dave
Interesting. I have not tried it that way. When I was going out to in, I would always end up with sharp corners. I had not thought to go from the inside out. It's a good solution because you know the inner piece will have the minimum corner space for the bit and everything else should be slightly larger. Very cool!
John Clark hey john. I am an absolute beginner but I have been working with wood for 40 years. I have a business reproducing antique furniture. I had a wrath of questions... maybe too many! I’d love the opportunity to chat at some point. I certainly don’t want to infringe on your privacy so if you be ok with it... send me a message request.
Dave Baird
Edmonton Alberta Canada
River lane Ranch.
If you don’t want me bothering you from time to time I fully understand.
Again... vids are great and have been very helpful
Dave
@@hbdcustomwoodworking6116 I would be happy to chat. I have also been a woodworker for about 15 years. I cannot figure out from the TH-cam interface how to do a message request, but if you go to the "about" tab on my channel there is a business inquiries email and you are welcome to use that.
John Clark hey john. I went to the “about tab” and couldn’t find the email. Can you “help a brother out” lol!
@@hbdcustomwoodworking6116 Should be the second section down, where is says "Details." There should be a "Show Email Address" button. It does make you go through the "I am not a robot" quiz. Once you finish the quiz, click submit and it will show the address. Let me know if it's not there so I can fix it.
Thanks to you Sir John. I will soon be A proud cnc machine owner A Shapeoko it looks like, thanks to you. You do a Great Job, your easy on the ears. I'm sure you know what I'm saying there. Hope all"s well your way it is 12-18-2019 now.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I am glad you enjoy the videos. I am running around like a crazy person for the holidays and looking forward to collapsing in a pile on the weekend. Best to you!
Thanks so much for all your great videos. I am new to this and the biggest problem has been learning CC. Your videos have explained a lot of things that I couldn’t find answers to elsewhere.
I look forward to learning more from you.
I really appreciate the kind words. I am happy I was able to help.
Getting my first Shapeoko 3 next week. I really appreciate these "How to" videos. Easy to follow. My biggest problem will be all the trees I have to kill to make everything I have envisioned.
Great tutorials and thank you for sharing all 3 vids. This is very valuable and straight forward to follow.
Thank you John, it's so a great help. Regards J-P
Hi John, I rarely comment on videos however this was a great explanation and demonstration. Subscribed!
Tristan W Thank you so much! It’s fun making videos, but the best part is when it actually helps someone. So nice to hear.
I'm going to make some boxes! Thank you.
John When I hold down the Ctrl key and click on the circle inside the square, (around 9:18 in the video) nothing happens. I have tried this several times and cannot get it to work. I have carbide create Build 520 and the GUI is slightly different from yours. Can you give me any help on why this is happening? I have the free version. Is this why it is not working?
Use the shift key. Ctrl used to work in old versions.
Nice idea,great job
Hey John clark. I'm from Trinidad. U are the best. I like your design. Please make some more. You are good👍
Darren Jattan thank you so much!
Super useful video! Thanks for this.
Awesome video tutorial. Looking forward to the second part. Thank you for uploading this. :)
Great Video thank you for sharing
You don’t have to make one lip a tad smaller so the tolerance won’t be too tight?
You can. I like to sand mine to try and sneak up on a good friction fit. It's good to experiment and see what gives you a good fit (maybe a few hundredths at a time until you are happy with it). The annoying thing is that wood wants to move over time and round boxes are a particular problem as they want to oval just slightly. They can get stuck.
Amazing how to!! Loved the Video!
Nice one, could I request if possible to show once the round box is cut then how to position the circular piece for engraving? Thanks
No problem. It's in part 2 ( th-cam.com/video/sOqT5AVoezU/w-d-xo.html ) both part 2 and 3 are linked above in the description.
Hi John, thanks for your time in making these videos. I don't know if you've figured this out yet, but you can save yourself a lot of time if you design the square boxes from the inside pocket, out. CC lets you add filet corners to any polygon you make (square rectangle, whatever). If you start with the inside pocket, set the filet to slightly larger than your tool radius (slightly larger so there's less cutter engagement in the corner for a better quality cut). From there, just use the offset path tool going OUTWARDS, and they'll have a complimentary filet in the corners. Just a thought, as it does save some time. Have a great day!
That's also a good option. Unfortunately, at the time I made this, there was a bug in Carbide Create where the outer offset would drop the corner radius (It has since been fixed). The radius also grows with each outline, which is not always what you are going for (I tend to like a more subtle rounding on the outside). I am glad you like the videos and I do appreciate the feedback. It's always nice to see other ways to do things.
This is some amazing work my friend!
No offset for the lip? Will this not be a tight fit?
In most cases, I prefer to sneak up on the fit with a hand plane, but I sometimes do a .002 offset. It's definitely something to play with and I do mention it in newer videos.
Hello I really liked your video little question how do you go about zooming what is the command to do thank you
In Carbide Create it's the scroll wheel on the mouse. There is also a reset view option under the view window which will return everything to the size of the window. If you only have a trackpad, you can probably do a two finger scroll to zoom. it always zooms relative to where your mouse pointer is. Does that help?
thank you I will work on that thank you very much
Hi John . thank you for your help on making boxes my wife is trying to make your round boxes along with oval boxes. however they do not fit into each other. the inside lip needs to be reduced just a little to fit can you help her?
Hi Clay. Sorry for the late response. You can select the circle for the inside lip (The second of the 3 circles) and shrink it by about .05 using the height or width boxes. See if that's enough.
I have a 14x9x3/4" piece of leftover birch plywood. Could I at least run a test on this material and then use the better wood like your selection knowing I've really locked down all the parameters?
Certainly. That's exactly what I did starting out. Things like plywood and MDF are great to experiment with and get settings dialed in. One thing to keep in mind is that 3/4 plywood is almost never actually .75 inches, (I have seen everything from .7 to .65) so a set of calipers is a must for getting a true measurement. The machine thinks in terms of 1000ths of an inch, so you need to as well. Birch ply is a great way to test ideas and get used to the machine and how tight the tolerance is for a project.
@@johnearlclark Thanks for replying and the tips. One other question I’ve pondered - is a dial caliper better than a digital read-out type? Thanks
Excellent video! I plan on using your how-to information this week.
Very glad to hear it! I would love to see how it turns out.
wow! it's great project bro, love it
Great work, John! Those look amazing!
Love the round boxes.... Where can I go to find some of the carvings you demonstrate.
I find a lot of things at the WikiCommons images site: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Images I also get a lot of things from Shutterstock (www.shutterstock.com) which has much higher quality images and the artists get paid for their work. I believe Etsy also has a ton of SVG images available at a very reasonable price.
Could you do a video how to do the inside corners on boxes with more then 4sides
I will see what I can do. The basics are kind of the same as with the four corners: Duplicate the piece you want to trim the corners on (say a hexagon). Create a circle the size of your bit and position it just inside the corner so that it just touches the sides. Select the piece you want to trim and then hold command and select the circle (the circle should be a dotted line). Use the subtract tool to clip the circle out of the piece. This should leave you with a little corner piece you can use to trim the original. Hope this helps and I will try to work this into an upcoming video.
that is well explained,very easy to understand even for a newby,i'm just wondering if this program can act somewhat like a cad program for creating those rounded corners,if you draw your first square,round those corners first and then make the offset..will it take over those rounded corners?just wondering :-),great video by the way
Hi David. You can round the corners in newer versions of Carbide Create using the "fillet" option from the drop down. However this is only available for the square tool. The offset is a good option, but remember that inner offsets will have a smaller radius to the corner and outer offsets will have a larger one. If you are offsetting inside by a large amount, the rounded corner just goes back to being a sharp 90 degrees. I use it for a lot of things, you just need to confirm with the simulator that things are going to cut as expected.
Awesome video
Hey John,I have a question. Do you have a way to put a small lip to the edge of the front of the box to be able to open it ,top and bottom lip? The small grove in the middle joint?
I'm able to do it on the Bottom lip using VCarve, but can't make it work on the Top lip.
If I am understanding correctly, you want a bit of a ridge on the lip itself? This requires a bit of a visual explanation. I posted up an image here www.dropbox.com/s/as6bii1gd54m5rr/Explainer.jpg?dl=0 Let me know if that is what you are looking for and if it makes sense.
Ernest Boyda I about wore your video out. Your very clear on instructions, but no mater what I do with my MAC I can not get the filet where you use the circle and square to make the fillets. Sometimes the circle is dashed or one quarter is completely dashed. I'm about ready to dump the Shapeko. Can you supply any clues?
Hey Ernest. Please don't give up. I know it's a bit of a learning curve, but hopefully I can help you out. I made a short little explainer on the filets and the dashed lines (it's outside the regular feed). Take a look and let me know if this makes things a little clearer. th-cam.com/video/9rlx8G82JLw/w-d-xo.html
Good!
Hi John. Great Videos (love the commentary). My husband and I are counting down the days for our shapeoko to arrive. While we wait we have been planning out some projects and this is one I am really excited to try. I was wondering if you could give me an idea of what bits we "need" to get started on this and other beginner projects? I understand some things like the differences between carbide and HSS bits, but I want to focus on some essentials to get started. Thanks!
Hi Candace! So glad you enjoyed the videos. If you plan on working with wood, I suggest down-cut bits. They tend to leave a much cleaner cut on wood. I use these in both quarter and eight inch versions: www.amazon.com/dp/B072J4CPQT I would also pick up a v-carve bit for doing designs like the ones on the box tops. I have this one (60 degrees) : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4NSYG and a 90 degree V-bit I got from Carbide 3D with my machine. Those are the 3 bits (quarter, eighth and either a 60 or 90 degree V-bit) I use the most often. I am finishing up a video on the heart shaped box this week and then I plan on doing a 3 part "Starting From Ground Zero" set for folks who are new to all this. Keep an eye out for those starting next month (I hope). I welcome both you and your husband to the rabbit hole. It's a lot of fun. Feel free to ask questions.
John Clark Thank you! We are happy to be here!
This is great thank you how about carving oak?
I have not done much with Oak, but I would like to. You would definitely want a downcut bit for that otherwise I expect it would splinter quite a bit. I tend to like the way oak looks on larger pieces because of the strong grain pattern.
Gracias por compartir, saludos desde Chile
Muy apreciado! Perdona mi español traducido. ¿Cómo van las cosas en Chile?
Hola, no se preocupe.
Mi inglés es muy básico, lo siento.
Pero acá en mi país todo iba bien hasta hace una semana, se vienen cambios importantes que nos afectarán de una u otra manera, pero así como hemos salidos de grandes terremotos, aluviones, volcanes ...etc, estoy seguro que también saldremos de está incertidumbre política más bien.
Ahora con respecto a sus trabajos, los he visto en estos días y admiro mucho su dedicación, prolijidad y creaciones. Muy hermosos todos.
Yo mi pasatiempo es un pequeño router CNC que adquirí hace poco, me emociona el tema es muy entretenido. Espero pronto hacer algo como lo que UD hace, estoy en eso. Solo es mi pasatiempo pero me encanta que pronto estaré dedicado a tiempo completo a esto.
Saludos, Rodrigo
Gracias de nuevo, y sobretodo por su tiempo que dedicó a este mensaje.✌️😁
@@rodrigocorona5900 Leí un poco sobre los eventos actuales en Chile y parece que están ocurriendo muchos cambios. Aquí en los Estados Unidos también estoy viendo a mi país decidir su futuro y estoy un poco ansioso por el resultado. Comparto su esperanza de que todos saldremos mejor de este cambio.
Gracias por sus amables palabras sobre mi trabajo. Me alegra que lo disfrutes. Las máquinas CNC son muy divertidas. Sé que disfrutarás el tuyo.
Cuidate.
John Clark
@@johnearlclark , Si también estoy atento a lo que pasa en EEUU algún día sueño con manejar por esas autopistas. Mi trabajo acá es manejar camiones para la compañía más grande distribuidora de combustibles de mi país, por muchos años. Pero a mis 42 años no he perdido la esperanza de algún día trabajar en un país desarrollado como lo es su país o Canadá, está en mis planes sobretodo si en mi país las cosas ya no son tan prósperas.
Me cree una cuenta en Instagram hoy y aparezco como rcoronar42 lo sigo y me gustaría compartir con ud algunos trabajos que he realizado con mi mini router CNC y en relación a mi pasión por los camiones. Es un Instagram creado reciéntemente y subiré algunas cosas que realizó en mi tiempo libre. Espero le gusten.
Saludos Rodrigo Corona
Great video! I was able to follow along a make a circular box. I tried it on a 0.75" piece of pine for a used walnut or maple. Do you think a laminated 1.5" of walnut would hold together during cnc milling? I am a newbie to cnc. This would be my second cut on my Shapeoko XXL.
It should. What did you glue it with? One thing I would definitely suggest is extra clamps on something that thick -- less to hold it down and more to keep it from moving side to side on the waste board.
I haven't glued anything yet. Just thought I would ask.
@@keithpruitt2204 Cool. I am a huge fan of Tightbond Glue. I have done a lot of wood turning with laminated pieces. I figure if I can spin it at 1800 rpms and nothing horrific happens, the glue is going to hold up to pretty much anything. :)
what software are you running and is it compatible wth a MacBook?
The software is Carbide Create and Carbide Motion. Both run on a Mac (which is what I am on) or on PC.
I don't know if this is possible but cant you just offset the filleted rectangle? instead of doing a circle square boolean, copy re boolean etc??
You can. However, I use the offset path tool a lot and once you create the offset, there is no option to fillet (or control height and width, which is also a drag). The fillet also only works on squares so I wanted to show some different options. I like to make weird boxes. :)
Hey John! Your videos are a great help for me. I need a little more help on where to find certain files for the cnc machine. I really love the way your circular boxes came out. But I am having trouble finding those awesome looking patterns for circle boxes.
The lion top is a purchase from shutterstock: www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/polynesian-lion-tribal-612230198
Great tutorial, can you share the vectors for the top lid with us maybe?
John, great vide - thank you. How do you deal with pieces that have a slight warp without a thickness planer?
If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can do a shallow pocket pass over the stock (1 or 2 mm at a time). Once the side is flat, flip the board and do the other side. If you have an old router bit, like a 3/4, it goes pretty quickly.
When Cutting lips that overlap, I did not notice any difference in size. Does the difference between and outer cut and inner cut provide enough space to allow and overlap?
Sometimes I will sand or plane to fit, but you can also drop a few hundredths off to get things to sit correctly. It's whichever suits your process. The real bear is the wood movement, which seems to hit the round boxes hardest. If they oval even slightly, the lid can stick.
This was Awesome! Subbed!
Great job. I can see it's solid wood? Don't You have problems with bending of the parts after routing?
I try to allow enough wiggle room for wood movement. The key is making sure the wood is fully dry before routing. Even then, the round boxes tend to be a bit more finicky than the rectangular ones.
@@johnearlclark by allowing enough wiggle room for wood movement You mean that You are trying to fit the lid a little bit loose?
@@TheForestBob Yes. On the round or square boxes I drop a couple thousands off. It depends a lot on how long I have had the wood, how thick it was and how dry it is. On boxes with a magnet catch, there really is no need for a truly tight fit. On the rectangular boxes, they run with the grain and seem to be less prone to movement issues.
@@johnearlclark all clear, thank You very much
how important is dust suction for these? I am thinking about attempting these but wondering if dust collecting in the box will be a problem since I don't have a dust boot currently.
Thanks for the share
Good morning John I just watched you video here on making boxes. I also have a Shapeoko XXl .Very good video. I saw in the intro that there was a Heart shaped Box. I am wondering if you did a video on it If so where can I find it, If not have you made one and might be willing to share how you did the design in Carbide Create. Thanks Jeff
Hello. I have not done a video for that one yet, but I need to. It's really the same principles as the other boxes: An initial shape and some offsets. However in this case, the initial shape was a heart SVG file I imported into carbide create. I am sure there is a way to create a heart shape directly in carbide create using the Bézier curve tool, but only dark wizards and graphic designers understand how that works. ;) I went ahead and posted my cut files up at: www.dropbox.com/s/jxtuc160skantvx/heart%20shaped%20box%204.75.c2d.zip?dl=0 You will need to tweak them to fit your stock size. I will also try to get a video up for that soon.
Just wanted to let you know, the video on the heart shaped box went up today. th-cam.com/video/jVA6f5C4Btw/w-d-xo.html
How fast did cnc cut it out?
What's is the max height of the bit (cut dimension depth) you use for a bit.... I do you have 2" depth bits?... Do you have a link for bits?.. I will appreciate it a lot
The tallest ones I can find right now seem to be from Spektra and have a cutting length of one and a quarter inches. I could swear they used to make them longer, but I cannot find them.
Hi John, on my multeenth time creating the simple box in Carbide Create as I try to learn the program. Making good headway I think. Regarding the rounding of the corners on the lip line rectangle (middle line of the three). I have experimented with creating that lip line first, with a .125 fillet and then using the offset path tool to create both the outer box and the pocket. This appears to work as a simple way to get rounded corners, I needed to created the initial rectangle .34" smaller than the desired box size. What do you think?
zeyeam that should work just fine. The version of Carbide Create I was using at the time didn’t have filets but they seem to be much better in the current versions. Just remember to keep your pieces centered on each other and it should work out well.
Thanks John. My machine should arrive tomorrow. Yippee!
do you sell any of these box files for the Shapeoko 4?
A few of them are up for free on Carbide's CutRocket site: cutrocket.com/u/jeclark
@@johnearlclark Thank you very much I just got Shapeoko 4 - So excited to get these files and start making something. Thanks again!
Hey John thanks again I do have a question. The heart shaped box I was going to do for my daughters birthday gift but I do not see the tool path. Did do something wrong?
My Shapeoko arrived this week! Where do you source small pieces of nice wood like that? Any suggestions? Thanks for the video! Beautiful boxes!
Thanks Kim! I usually go to a local lumber yard. If you are in the Atlanta area, I recommend The Woodyard in Concord, and Carlton's Rare Woods & Veneers. Otherwise, a Google search for "hardwood dealers near me" usually works. I have also had good luck with ebay sellers and Green Valley Wood Products (www.gvwp.net/) or Ocooch Hardwoods (ocoochhardwoods.com/). One thing to note is that most lumber places sell by the "board foot," which basically means cubic measurements -- A one inch thick board, six inches wide and two feet long is considered one board foot. It's a little weird at first, but you get used to it. Hope this helps.
Thanks John! I'm in PA but there are a few local lumberyards and also lumber mills so I'll check those out and also the other sources you shared. Thanks so much for your help! Its a great video you made!
When we were in the States a few years back, we stopped off at a WoodCraft Store. In the back they had a ton of odds & sods, which at the time, we scored many for our Pen Turning. Lots of Exotic woods.
There may be Woodcraft but it is better to look for a full-service wood supply shop if you are lucky enough to have one nearby. I've got an amazing example of such a shop within driving distance, they ship stuff and have an online store. www.kencraftcompany.com/
Hey Kim. I got a message that you were looking for the files. I have posted one of the boxes up here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 Let me know if you have any questions. Also let me know how it turns out.
Great Job!! Great teaching! How do you join the group to share projects? I am planning on ordering a Shapeoko next week.
Thanks Sandy. There isn't a group here per se, but there is a Facebook group: facebook.com/groups/unofficialshapeoko and the regular Carbide Create Group community.carbide3d.com/
good video thanks
Where do you get all of these different kinds of wood?
Hi Kent. There is a wonderful place South of me in Concord, GA called The Woodyard. www.thewoodyard.com/ It's a really great bunch of guys and very helpful. They keep a fair amount of stuff on Ebay too: www.ebay.com/usr/thewoodyardga If you are not in the Georgia area, I would do a search on hardwood lumber nearby. You might be surprised.
Hi John. This is fantastic. You shared the heart box file with me and it came out perfect. My wife now cuts it out with no problem. Is there any way you would share both the round box and the angled box files with me? It is so cool to do this with my wife. Thank you- Clay Elder Jr
Hi Clay. The round box is here: www.dropbox.com/s/a4jracouoqntxaf/4_point_2_inch_round_box.c2d.zip?dl=0 The top designs are ones that I bought from Shutterstock, so I can't share them. If you are looking for the hex shaped box I need to search through my files for that one. I have not cut it in a while. Is that the one you mean when you say the angled box? Just let me know and I will take a look.
John Clark hi John yes that is the box I’m talking about. Thank you-Clay
Hi John, many THANKS. Are your clamps also used to elevate the work piece so that the cutter does not cut into the waste/spoil board?
Thanks Girard! Typically I just use a piece of 1/4 MDF or some cardboard to raise the work piece slightly. It's best with wood to have something behind it when you cut through. Otherwise it tends to splinter and make a mess of the edges.
@@johnearlclark Thanks, I have aluminum plates from Ohio Diesel and don't want to ruin the aluminum surface during the cutout process.
Any advice you can share? This is my first CNC / Software experience and currently on the Shapeoko 3 XXL building process. I hear of many beginners (TH-camers) having mistakes and pluckerup the waste/spoil board on their projects.
@@IFLYRCHELICOPTERS I would go with 1/4 MDF under the material you are cutting and a decent set of dial calipers to make sure you are accurate on the thickness of your material. I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5XJW7I I hope this helps.
thanks for the video John, what settings did you use to make the boxes? its taken me hours just to do the pockets!
Hi Karl, I am using a 1/4 inch end mill and the standard speeds out of Carbide Create (0.092 Depth per pass, 75 in feedrate, 12.50 plunge rate). What are you using?
Hi John, I really enjoyed the video on making boxes Did I hear that I might be able to get the file from you for the rectangular box? If so, how can I get it? Thank You-Clay
Hi Clay. Sure thing. The box files are here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 Let me know if you have any questions about them. Just remember to adjust them to the size of your stock.
I believe you mentioned willingness to send the file for your basic box to someone. I have tried to follow your video on this box and comfort food. I for the life of me can't seem to get it right. Lots of error in my trial and error. Don't know if it's my machine (Bob's cnc) or me.
Love the videos and want to compare my design and yours
@@JustinSmith-fg1qt All of my files are Carbide Create files www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 so I don't know if they will help you much. I would be interested to know what problems you are seeing when you make boxes (alignment issues?). If you can send me a photo of the end result I may be able to diagnose what is happening. You can use the business enquiry email in my profile.
I follow you video to make this box 3 times not get fit the top with bottom
I try to sand it but also it not get fit
If you can send me some pictures of the box, maybe I can help you figure out what is happening. You can use the business enquiries email address on this page: th-cam.com/users/johnearlclarkabout
@@johnearlclark I have same issue, I follow the exact measurements still top and bottom would not fit, had to sand a lot to get it fit.
Thanks for the info it all helps so much. Any bits you like than others? What speed do you set the router to? Thanks again keep up the amazing work
Hi there John, Thanks for these videos on boxes...they are great, you do such a such job designing them. I am currently waiting for my XXL to arrive in the next couple of days as well. I am taking in the different approaches to using these machines and I have to say you do such an amazing job at explaining thing, the ins and outs of why you do what you do. Now I have to try and teach this old brain to remember this stuff. I guess it all takes time and patience? Anyways I look forward to watching your other videos. Just new to your channel yesterday so I did subscribe. Have any suggestions where to purchase the cutter bits etc? Thanks again very much. Andrew
Thanks Andrew! I get my bits from Amazon. If you plan on working with wood, I suggest down-cut bits. They tend to leave a much cleaner cut on wood. I use these in both quarter and eight inch versions: www.amazon.com/dp/B072J4CPQT I would also pick up a v-carve bit for doing designs like the ones on the box tops. I have this one (60 degrees) : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4NSYG and a 90 degree V-bit I got from Carbide 3D with my machine. Those are the 3 bits (quarter, eighth and either a 60 or 90 degree V-bit) I use the most often. -- PS: at the tender age of 55 I would say that old brains tend to do just fine :)
Love the Lion design. Can you direct me to the source of it? Thanks for the video.
That one is a paid image from shutterstock: www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/polynesian-lion-tribal-612230198
How much would you expect to get for the lion round box?
Usually I charge about $30 to $40 for boxes. Somewhere in that range. I honestly don’t make a lot of effort to sell things but some folks ask so that tends to be the price range. Most of my work is given to friends and family.
Where can one find the lion head design on your round box. Thanks!
That was a purchase from shutterstock: www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/polynesian-lion-tribal-612230198
@@johnearlclark Thank you. The videos are great. Learned a lot. Again, thanks!
How did you convert the file? I downloaded from shutterstock and it was an .EPS file. I converted to svg on convertio but when I make a toolpath in carbide create and do a simulation some of the design is missing. Should I convert to a different file type? Thanks!
Hi John, I just got my XL set up today and I am a complete novice with cnc, Would you be willing to share the rectangle box file with me?
Hi John. I bought my shapeoko 3 about 6 weeks ago. I can't find the fillet option. I paused and went into the move feature selection and I only have the size in x and y current size shown below that and then apply and done. There's no fillet option. Do you have carbine pro or an older version that used to have that feature? I could add them manually but that's a nice feature I would like to use. Thanks for your help.
In the recent versions of Carbide Create they stopped labeling the drop down as "filet" for some reason. After you draw or select a square, you will see a drop down under the height and width that says "square" (which is not terribly helpful since that is what you just drew). That drop down has your filet options. It's not very intuitive.
@@johnearlclark thanks for the help. I just checked and below the width and height I only have apply and done. So something isn't correct here but I appreciate your help. Thanks for the videos. These have been a great help.
@@johnearlclark for whatever reason I've been noticing some glitches in my carbide create software. Maybe I should uninstall and then redownload it. A recent example I was designing my wasteboard and included line segments in a one inch by one inch grid and I know I saved it and random ones were missing and I remember the way I drew them so I know what order they should be in if I forgot to save before exiting. Just weird little quirks.
@@justinlareau2227 you may have an old version. What version are you using?
@@johnearlclark i'll have to check when I assembled it about 2months ago upon receiving it in the mail I downloaded what I thought was the latest version on Carbide 3D's website. But the instructions were terrible for assembling the machine. My only complaint really about it. That and needing to drill out the paint in the 4 hole on the carriage plates that the x axis gantry mounts to in order to get z axis rails square front to back. The bolts were very difficult to thread into the aluminum rails because of this but it's minor and easily fixed. I'm currently a Quality Engineer at a manufacturing company in wisconsin but a decade ago I was a tool and die maker apprentice for about 3 years and ran CNC milling machines along with many other machines to make fixtures and tooling components. So i'm a lil rusty but definitely experienced with cnc machining and g-codes.
How long does the CNC have to work for these 2 parts?
Around 25 minutes for both top and bottom.
John I have a problem . I went to the cutrocket and found your files on the heart shaped box. I saw that it came in inches. I viewed it in inches and downloaded it and I got MM So how do I get the inches version.
Thanks Jeff
When you open the file in Carbide Create, you can click the little gear in the upper left corner of the window. You should see a small section for units down towards the bottom. You can switch from MM to inches there. Hope this helps. -John
@@johnearlclark Yes it did and as soon as I saw this post it all came back I have not used CC since I Bought vcarve pro. Thanks .this file opens in CC if you click the icon twice.un like the file for the finger joint jig
@@resorter66 Cool. Are you also the one who asked the same question in the Carbide forum? I was going to answer there, but wanted to check first.
@@johnearlclark yes I am. I am still trying to sort out your files about the finger joint jig. Which file goes with which pictures I want to cut the joints vertically off the front of my xxl .jeff
@@resorter66 Unfortunately, CutRocket randomly assigns those numbers to the files. It is not the most helpful thing in the world. I am not even sure what they are. I posted a set with helpful names here: www.dropbox.com/s/036dzrxiw8oc8ae/Finger%20Joints%20Jig.zip?dl=0
Are you still happy with your shapeoko
I am. I have gotten a ton of use out of it. Mind you, the soon to be released OneFinity is looking really snazzy: www.onefinitycnc.com/
Hi John
I like your movies. I don't see any new movies, did you stopt? Can you please share those files with me?
Kind regards,
Rinus
Hi Rinus. I still make movies just not very frequently. I think the last one was about a month ago ( th-cam.com/users/johnearlclark ) .Since the pandemic hit, being creative is really a struggle. Hopefully I will get back to it soon. The files for the lizard box are here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0
@@johnearlclark Glad to hear that you did not stopped. How is it with your health and family? All good I hope. Thank you for the file.
@@Epoxy-Inlays So far so good here. The isolation tends to get to me after a while. I hope all is well with you too.
@@johnearlclark John, I'm fine thanks. My wife also. Here in the Netherlands it's getting worse again. I'm struggling to find a good design. Can't think of anything else. Stupid maybe.
@@Epoxy-Inlays Sadly I am over in the USA, where it never stopped being bad. My country elected a fool to be President. Hopefully we will do better next time.
Im using this carbide thing as well and I dont get the same cut at all fallowed your steps and using 1/8 bit and no go Also when I try to square the circle and I use the retracting bolean thing nothing happens or I get a copy Also its not crt its shift yea this doesnt work at all for me
One thing to note with recent versions of Carbide Create: When you subtract one shape from another, instead of disappearing, the subtracting shape stays where it was. I think the idea was that you could subtract a shape, move it to a new location and subtract it again and again (which is great for making slots). However, from a usability standpoint it's kind of awful as it makes it seem like the subtraction didn't do anything.
@@johnearlclark Thanks yes I got it to work yes I have a newer version Thank you for this video Ive been wanting to make a box with a lip I can make them with magnets ok but I wanted to learn how to with the lip .
@@johnearlclark Hi John I'm trying like your doing but I dont get that lip for some reason Part 1 the cut is on the outside box 2 the cut is on the inside to get the lip but something im doing wrong I cant get the lip
Great video, thanks ! I see you holding a guitar in the profile pic ... have you made one on the Shapeoko yet?
I have not tried one yet, but they seem to be a popular project for people. I wonder if a Shapeoko 3 would be big enough for a telecaster body?
I seem to recall the tele being a hair under 16 inches and the shapeoko 3 being right around there ? There are some dwg files floating around the internet. Electricherald & TDPRI are good resources.
There goes my weekend plans... :)
Under Job Setup - Edit, I have to set grid spacing to 0.250 or it drives me crazy. I only use inches but it defaults to 5mm (0.197 in.) grid for the grid.
I am with you. Some of the defaults seem wildly arbitrary and I wish there was a way to change them. The only thing I can suggest is making a "pseudo-template" file with the settings the way you like and then always open that file first and do "save as" (or duplicated it). Not a great solution, but doable. I am hoping Carbide can afford to focus some additional resources on this in the near future. It serves me well for about 90% of what I do, but that last 10% can get really annoying.
Which Facebook shapeoko group are you discussing. I saw several groups with Shapeoko in the name. I thought I joined one, but do not see it. I would love to get access to the files you uploaded.
skip....
This is the one I post in: facebook.com/groups/unofficialshapeoko
Where do you get the wood?
There is a wonderful place South of me in Concord, GA called The Woodyard. www.thewoodyard.com/ It's a really great bunch of guys and very helpful. They keep a fair amount of stuff on Ebay too: www.ebay.com/usr/thewoodyardga If you are not in the Georgia area, I would do a search on hardwood lumber nearby. You might be surprised.
How long did it take you to cut out that box?
I think the cut out was about 10-15 minutes or so for just the box.
Thanks!
Your mouse buttons have a really satisfying click sound
Why not just do the fillit on the outside square before you offset?
Unfortunately, the current version of Create ignore the fillet when you offset to the inside.
Would anyone know how to do offset in inkscape?
Pedro Reynoso try this: gerardnico.com/viz/inkscape/offset
Your videos are great. The loud clicking on the keyboard is very distracting. Can these noises be removed?
Super
Would you make a file for me? Of course charge me for it.
I have made a number of my files available free on CutRocket: cutrocket.com/u/jeclark Does that work for you?
Пора уже перейти в метрическую систему😢
I agree.
HI john nice video is it possible to get this file by chance ? If so can u send me a msg thanks... great vid
Certainly. All my stuff usually ends up on CutRocket: cutrocket.com/p/5d3efee80959b/
Clicking noise is extremely annoying but otherwise great job