Good, Simple, Clear video! Two comments I would make. The first is to hit the screws with PB blaster or similar and to take it for a ride before the repair to warm it up and get fluid in the threads of the screws which tend to oxidize over time. The second is that warming it up will make the hoses you have to remove more pliable but you still have to be careful with them as they tend to get brittle over time.
Umm, I’m not sure to be honest. You may want to call auto zone or an auto store and see what they tell you. Then buy it online or if it’s cheap enough buy from them.
Good catch. Lol. I made a mistake with the first one that I bought it had two identical connectors. However, it turned out that the brown and black use different connectors so at the end of the video I ended up using the right one. :)
@@Daddicated What actual code did it throw? I love it when people say the scan tool told me a thing was bad, no a scan tool told you what code the ecu is throwing, but a single code can be many different things. But hey I've replaced dozens of oxygen sensors that customers told me that autozone told them their scanner says to replace the o2 sensor. Its almost never actually the o2 sensor unless its the heater circuit code, its usually some other condition such as a vacuum leak or evap equipment making the bank the o2 sensor is on rich or lean. Anyways I have 0012, intake runner stuck closed. Not sure if I need to look at these, or the actuator. Just got this car. Thanks for the video.
@@EvlEgle I honestly don't remember what code it was since this was so long ago. But I get what you mean you always need to investigate the problem and the code is just a good starting point.
@@Daddicated Exactly. Keep trying to tell people you can't just "replace the part the scan tool told me to" and expect it to work to get rid of the code. The code is just telling you what condition is causing it to fail OBD/Smog Readiness. But you have to actually spend some time looking at that system to determine what is causing that code to actually trip. Is your vent solenoid stuck open, or did you just forget to tighten that gas cap. Is your oxy sensor bad, or is actually your intake gaskets leaking and making the car run lean. In my case, trying to determine if the Variable Runner actuator bad, the solenoid is shot, or if I just have a vacuum leak or maybe the dealer recall was never done I have a the older actuator that doesn't work well when the engine is cold.
To add to this comment thread, I had a roughness when passing 2300rpm at low-medium throttle under load, it threw a solenoid code too, but only once and then it disappeared, after disconnecting the valves the jerking subsided, but not completely disappeared, there was way less torque under 3k rpm tho, after installing new valves the jerking is totally gone, even when towing a trailer and the car seems to accelerate more smoothly through the rpm range.
What symptoms were you having to make you change this. I’m getting a ol fault , rough idle but no codes or engine check lights, I have changed out MAF sensor with 2 used and 1 new. Car runs better disconnected. It’s a 2005-6 2.0.
Have you got a video of the noise it made before the repair.. got a weird tapping noise while driving in all gears, there’s a sweet spot and it’s quieter and it’s loudest in gears 1,2 and 3
@@james1467 hey mate, I ended up having a slight knock, although the noise was completely different. I ended up replacing the entire motor and gearbox, was cheaper than a rebuild
I have a 2010 Mazda 6 I got the code p2009 for a intake manifold runner control circuit low bank 1 will I have to do what you did hear ? To solve my check engine light I did use a scanner and that’s the only code that came up
Well try to replace that part and see what happens or take it to a shop and see what they say. I know autozone does free scans maybe they can suggest something.
I tried looking it up online but can't seem to find it either. I would recommend taking a picture of it or screenshot and going to the dealer to see if he can give you a part number so you can buying it online or if its not to expensive at the dealer then buy it directly from them.
@@Daddicated I found something comparable. I forget the name, but it was an easy find at the nearest auto parts store. Thanks for the video! Fixed that and replaced the cap since it's been a while. Hoping that's the last repair I need to make for a while.
Hey, I recently replaced it but the code didn’t go away? I think the solenoid might’ve been damaged is there any other small thing before I order a new piece that could possibly be p2004 (bank 1 stuck open)
very possible. I'm not familiar with that code but it's a pretty easy fix to try and doesn't cost too much. Otherwise see what a mechanic may recommend. Or try taking it to autozone and have them run their test and tell you what it could possibly be.
It won’t hurt to unplug it. I don’t remember if I unplugged mine or not when I did it. I usually unplug when I work on electrical stuff just to be safe.
It’s probably been a bit more then two years cuz I didn’t post the video right away after I recorded. But honestly I’m not sure how it is now. I sold that car already. When I sold it, everything was still good.
There’s. Trick, you take a pliers hold it above where it’s connected (the hose) and twist, break it free then it’ll pull off, put a little grease on where the hoses connects to the solenoid hi
Honestly I don’t recall anymore, I know my friend who is a mechanic recommended that I replaced it, I believe I had some sort of check engine light. Don’t recall the code tho.
Great video man! I had a hell of a time getting the rear torx screws to get out! Needed wd40 to loosen. Also the hoses were a bitch to pull out and I snapped the f shaped hose connector! Fark!!
I had the same thing happen when replacing mine tonight. Fortunately I was able to find a plastic barbed T piece at a local hardware store that fit well in the relevant hoses. No issues after a 20 minute suburban drive so hopefully it remains that way. This video was incredibly helpful.
@@Daddicated I believe so. I researched it online. The dealer diagram does not have this part. This is so strange. Last thing to do is for me to go down to the dealership part department and speak to them in person. I bought this part from eBay. eBay Part gives me a check engine light once in awhile. After a year.
This is really confusing. I see this occurring with the purge control valve too. According to the literature, what you are installing are vacuum solenoid valves which are a part of the variable intake air system. The manifold intake actuator shutter valve /runner/whatever is on the front of the engine block attached to the intake manifold. This baffles me.
Yeah I was told by my mechanic that was the part I needed to replace. Otherwise I’m not really good with car stuff. Just very small projects or if it’s something specific I need to remove or reinstall based on professional advice.
@@Daddicated Not good with car stuff? Tell me about it. I'm in the same boat. Never once have I been shown or trained on vehicle mechanics and I certainly have no credentials or luacensing. I have a 2008 Mazda3 that I purchased in 2016. Love the car to death. In 2016 I decided to teach myself about cars and fir my first big project after having only ever fueled my car and washed it was suspension. Replaced it all using only Mazda service manual, Haynes manual, knowledgeable friends and YT. All in all, it went quite well though it took about a week because I got caught up on a few stuck bolts and having to convince myself that whacking the CV axle with a sledge hammer was the most appropriate way to free up the wheel hub as is outlined in the service manual. It was the moment I realized at least one reason car mechanics like to do their work behind closed doors without an audience. I assume that Lexus and Porsche also require such heroic measures - their owners would fall out if they realized or saw this occurring. Anyhow I'm now in the midst of doing a complete engine replacement. Remanufactured engine that is. The night I commented on your video, I had just removed the front intake manifold and discovered more about these and their relation to the air intake system. I was somewhat familiar with the variable valve timing but not at all the actuator and solenoid. But I have found this issue on what exactly is what in the 3 engine especially with the PCV, charcoal cannister, air swirl tumblers, etc. Sometimes it's hard to correctly locate certain parts and I'll have to double confirm them because between all the online Mazda part retailers around the nation, service manual, individual YT'ers parts can have different names. I suppose it makes it all the more fun or perhaps just something that calls for further research which inevitable leads to greater knowledge. I guess I'm weird like that. Something about the Mazda 3 to me is absolutely fascinating. My first 3 cars were 2 Hondas and a VW Jetta. I never was all too interested about under the hood but Mazda fir some reason ...
@@TheAgentAaron Hey thanks for sharing. It's cool how much you can learn if you just have the desire and drive for what you want to learn. Unfortunately, I don't share the same passion for cars as you do for your Mazda. But I do share the passion of trying to fix it myself if the fix is easy enough to where I can save a few bucks. Plus, I grew up with my father in construction so I'm leaning more toward those types of tutorials nowadays. However, I too don't know everything and still learn as I go with each project I do. I really enjoy making videos/youtube hence why I publish my stuff here. I feel like learning new skills and information is probably the better use of our free time compared to the alternative of binge-watching shows and wasting time online. Even though I'm guilty of that sometimes as well. Anyway, good luck on your journey my friend. One day you will know more than those mechanics we are supposed to trust. lol
Good, Simple, Clear video! Two comments I would make. The first is to hit the screws with PB blaster or similar and to take it for a ride before the repair to warm it up and get fluid in the threads of the screws which tend to oxidize over time. The second is that warming it up will make the hoses you have to remove more pliable but you still have to be careful with them as they tend to get brittle over time.
Thanks for the tips very useful info. And thanks for the feedback really appreciate it.
Awesome video man thanks! Straight to the point, good editing and visuals, and short. Keep it going!
Thank you.
Thanks! I bought that part for my Mazda 3 and it fixed the p2004 and p2009 issue!
Awesome. 👍🏼
Was your car running real crappy and not shifting and surging and missing and stuff before you replaced that?
Finally someone answers that. Mine has 2009 code runs a little rough for the first few seconds I figured it was this valve too
What year Mazda is yours
@@speedracer175 2010
I appreciate the different camera angles. It makes a huge difference when you can really see it thanks for taking the time.
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it as well. 😊
ok, is this the same thing as a purge valve solenoid, just a different type for a different year Mazda?
I’m not 100% sure to be honest. I was told I needed to replace this that’s why I did it myself. Otherwise I’m not that knowledgeable with car stuff.
@@DaddicatedHi why you change this control runner? Is that the knocking sound?
If I have a Mazda 3 2010 2.0, do I need a low emission or standard intake manifold?
Umm, I’m not sure to be honest. You may want to call auto zone or an auto store and see what they tell you. Then buy it online or if it’s cheap enough buy from them.
@@Daddicated they weren't able to help, I'm getting a little desperate with the situation 😧 but thank you for replying.
@@lombard2692 what about calling the dealer?
Great video!! You are a life saver!!
Glad I could help
Hi from Canada ...I do not have this part in this location on my 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 ...there is a spot for it but its not there
Interesting 🤔
For 2005 mazda 3 2.3 hatchback it sits on top of the intake manifold
How come the solenoid you reattach the clips to at the end of the video is a different color?
Good catch. Lol. I made a mistake with the first one that I bought it had two identical connectors. However, it turned out that the brown and black use different connectors so at the end of the video I ended up using the right one. :)
is that what you call the fuel injector or the camshaft oil selenoid? kind of confuse
Honestly not sure. I’m not a car guy just know how to replace a few components.
did you unhook your battery prior to doing this?
Yes of course. I always unhook it anytime I’m dealing with an electrical part.
would this solenoid cause a p2006 code?
I’m not sure I don’t recall.
what were your symptons for a bad solenoid?
mine had a strange idle and I had a check engine light on. After checking it with the OBD scanner it told me that mine was bad.
@@Daddicated What actual code did it throw?
I love it when people say the scan tool told me a thing was bad, no a scan tool told you what code the ecu is throwing, but a single code can be many different things. But hey I've replaced dozens of oxygen sensors that customers told me that autozone told them their scanner says to replace the o2 sensor. Its almost never actually the o2 sensor unless its the heater circuit code, its usually some other condition such as a vacuum leak or evap equipment making the bank the o2 sensor is on rich or lean.
Anyways I have 0012, intake runner stuck closed. Not sure if I need to look at these, or the actuator. Just got this car. Thanks for the video.
@@EvlEgle I honestly don't remember what code it was since this was so long ago. But I get what you mean you always need to investigate the problem and the code is just a good starting point.
@@Daddicated Exactly.
Keep trying to tell people you can't just "replace the part the scan tool told me to" and expect it to work to get rid of the code.
The code is just telling you what condition is causing it to fail OBD/Smog Readiness. But you have to actually spend some time looking at that system to determine what is causing that code to actually trip.
Is your vent solenoid stuck open, or did you just forget to tighten that gas cap.
Is your oxy sensor bad, or is actually your intake gaskets leaking and making the car run lean.
In my case, trying to determine if the Variable Runner actuator bad, the solenoid is shot, or if I just have a vacuum leak or maybe the dealer recall was never done I have a the older actuator that doesn't work well when the engine is cold.
To add to this comment thread, I had a roughness when passing 2300rpm at low-medium throttle under load, it threw a solenoid code too, but only once and then it disappeared, after disconnecting the valves the jerking subsided, but not completely disappeared, there was way less torque under 3k rpm tho, after installing new valves the jerking is totally gone, even when towing a trailer and the car seems to accelerate more smoothly through the rpm range.
What symptoms were you having to make you change this.
I’m getting a ol fault , rough idle but no codes or engine check lights, I have changed out MAF sensor with 2 used and 1 new. Car runs better disconnected.
It’s a 2005-6 2.0.
I think I had a check engine light and my dads friend who is a mechanic recommended that I replaced it.
Have you got a video of the noise it made before the repair.. got a weird tapping noise while driving in all gears, there’s a sweet spot and it’s quieter and it’s loudest in gears 1,2 and 3
No unfortunately didn’t record that.
Did you ever find out what that noise was. I am having the same problem? I am curious if this will resolve the problem?
@@james1467 hey mate, I ended up having a slight knock, although the noise was completely different. I ended up replacing the entire motor and gearbox, was cheaper than a rebuild
Would you happen to know the stock original part number? It isn't same as this.
No sorry I don’t. Try to find a manual on google and look it up.
So is the Amazon link to the new intake manifold runner the correct one?
This is the one u need:
amzn.to/3UcOGj7
I have a 2010 Mazda 6 I got the code p2009 for a intake manifold runner control circuit low bank 1 will I have to do what you did hear ? To solve my check engine light I did use a scanner and that’s the only code that came up
Not sure what circuit low means. Try to dig around on online forms to see what exactly you need to replace.
Daddicated yea that’s why I did I did some research for that and videos of what your replacing pop up and on the internet that same part pops up
Well try to replace that part and see what happens or take it to a shop and see what they say. I know autozone does free scans maybe they can suggest something.
Clip removal tool. . . Can I just yank on it till it breaks off then zip clip it back on?
I guess you could but would you want to do that?
are there 2 of these, and do they need to get programmed?
I didn't have to do any programming.
Hello, good morning, the scanner gives me code p2009.
Does changing that valve correct the error? I would appreciate it very much
I’m not too sure. I had a friend mechanic tell me to replace mine. Don’t remember what the code was
Got a code for P2006 for Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck
Closed Bank 1. Would you recommend the same parts?
Not sure, you may want to check with a mechanic to be sure.
Thanks man, goodbye annoying check engine light.
Your welcome. Glad it helped.
Did you have to reset the code? Delete the code?
Is it the same for a Mazdaspeed 2.3 turbo 2010
I’m not sure but I can imagine it’s very similar.
The yellow piece on that first hose you removed snapped on me as I was attempting the repair. Any idea what it's called?
I tried looking it up online but can't seem to find it either. I would recommend taking a picture of it or screenshot and going to the dealer to see if he can give you a part number so you can buying it online or if its not to expensive at the dealer then buy it directly from them.
@@Daddicated I found something comparable. I forget the name, but it was an easy find at the nearest auto parts store. Thanks for the video! Fixed that and replaced the cap since it's been a while. Hoping that's the last repair I need to make for a while.
@@gabrielgreco7210 oh nice. 👍🏼
would you guys happen to know what kind of piece it is? I broke mine and have been trying to find it
@@stinkylumpiasame here did you find that out. Help me
Like these Mazda 3vids
Thanks.
Hey, I recently replaced it but the code didn’t go away? I think the solenoid might’ve been damaged is there any other small thing before I order a new piece that could possibly be p2004 (bank 1 stuck open)
Hey, sorry I’m not sure. Try to see if you kind can find an article that may suggest other things to try for this code.
so I got a po661 code, would this be the replacement to do for that fix? ssv solenoid valve ?
very possible. I'm not familiar with that code but it's a pretty easy fix to try and doesn't cost too much. Otherwise see what a mechanic may recommend. Or try taking it to autozone and have them run their test and tell you what it could possibly be.
What size torx bit do I need to use?
Imran Mughal I don’t remember either T20 or T25.
@@Daddicated Thank you
Anytime.
Where did you buy your intake vacum solenoid valve
amzn.to/3vgMbmU
I'm getting this code C0001 TCS Control Channel 'A' Valve 1 on my Mazda 3 2012. Would you please tell the location of Channel A valve 1?
I’m not a mechanic so I don’t know which one is which. Plus I don’t have this car anymore. Sorry I couldn’t help you.
@@Daddicated No problem, Thanks though.
do i have to unplug my battery before doing this?
It won’t hurt to unplug it. I don’t remember if I unplugged mine or not when I did it. I usually unplug when I work on electrical stuff just to be safe.
It's been two years. How is it? Is the new valve any good?
It’s probably been a bit more then two years cuz I didn’t post the video right away after I recorded. But honestly I’m not sure how it is now. I sold that car already. When I sold it, everything was still good.
will this same part work on a mazda speed 3 2013? getting this same code
also can i get a link or part number
I think so if the problem is the same. amzn.to/2YyS0Lp
How did you get those hoses off of the solenoid?
I think I struggled with them a little bit too.
There’s. Trick, you take a pliers hold it above where it’s connected (the hose) and twist, break it free then it’ll pull off, put a little grease on where the hoses connects to the solenoid hi
@@frankm8516 Thanks for the tip Frank.
Are the black and brown solenoid the same thing im looking to replace the brown 1
I’m not sure. I don’t think so since they made them different colors I would assume there had to be a specific reason.
Yeah i think the brown 1 is the intake manifold valve and the black 1 is the solenoid valve.......not sure tho
What if I took it off and I didn't see where the hose where connected
Not sure then.
Have a code P0403 thinking maybe this will fix it. I replaced the EGR valve already
Yeah I’m not sure but it’s pretty cheap to try it out and see
What u call those hoses
Not sure to be honest.
Which was the issue ?
Honestly I don’t recall anymore, I know my friend who is a mechanic recommended that I replaced it, I believe I had some sort of check engine light. Don’t recall the code tho.
Great video man! I had a hell of a time getting the rear torx screws to get out! Needed wd40 to loosen. Also the hoses were a bitch to pull out and I snapped the f shaped hose connector! Fark!!
Thanks. Yeah they can be a pain sometimes. Sorry to hear that you broke yours.
I had the same thing happen when replacing mine tonight. Fortunately I was able to find a plastic barbed T piece at a local hardware store that fit well in the relevant hoses.
No issues after a 20 minute suburban drive so hopefully it remains that way. This video was incredibly helpful.
Found out while replacing this part, that my two of my hoses were cracked
@@UniqueTechandMore Where’d you find the replacement hoses?
So I replaced that part but I still have the check engine light on and the P2004 code.
Not sure you may need to have a mechanic diagnosis it.
Help I did this and now I have a check engine light and no code no google search is helping
I don't have this car anymore so I don't know how I could help you.
Excellent thank you
You’re welcome. Glad I could help.
Thank you, Sir!😊
Anytime
What’s the manifold bolt size
Honestly I don’t remember anymore. I don’t have the car either.
Its a star or octagon like, the ones intop of this runner
The dealer part is a singular module. I don't even think they carry this part.
That’s strange… u sure it’s for the same year and model?
@@Daddicated I believe so. I researched it online. The dealer diagram does not have this part. This is so strange. Last thing to do is for me to go down to the dealership part department and speak to them in person. I bought this part from eBay. eBay Part gives me a check engine light once in awhile. After a year.
@@speedracer175 Yeah that's strange. Maybe have a local mechanic look at it and give his input before dealer since they charge an arm and a leg.
I need to replace the screws, any clue what size would fit?
No sorry, it’s been too long since I had that car. 😅
My hoses won’t pop off like yours did,
Try light twisting back and forth while you pull on them.
Great video if only I have the tools I'll do it myself.
I believe it's all basic tools that are very inexpensive.
@@Daddicated what type of a bit torx? What type of a screw driver
@@speedracer175 I don't remember anymore. Just buy a torx bit set like this and you'll be set. amzn.to/3QnDGxH
@@Daddicated I have a Allen key set, would that work
@@speedracer175 No. Torx has a star-like shape vs Allen is more hexagon.
Good for the P0661 code
Thanks for the feedback.
This is really confusing. I see this occurring with the purge control valve too. According to the literature, what you are installing are vacuum solenoid valves which are a part of the variable intake air system. The manifold intake actuator shutter valve /runner/whatever is on the front of the engine block attached to the intake manifold. This baffles me.
Yeah I was told by my mechanic that was the part I needed to replace. Otherwise I’m not really good with car stuff. Just very small projects or if it’s something specific I need to remove or reinstall based on professional advice.
@@Daddicated Not good with car stuff? Tell me about it. I'm in the same boat. Never once have I been shown or trained on vehicle mechanics and I certainly have no credentials or luacensing. I have a 2008 Mazda3 that I purchased in 2016. Love the car to death. In 2016 I decided to teach myself about cars and fir my first big project after having only ever fueled my car and washed it was suspension. Replaced it all using only Mazda service manual, Haynes manual, knowledgeable friends and YT. All in all, it went quite well though it took about a week because I got caught up on a few stuck bolts and having to convince myself that whacking the CV axle with a sledge hammer was the most appropriate way to free up the wheel hub as is outlined in the service manual. It was the moment I realized at least one reason car mechanics like to do their work behind closed doors without an audience. I assume that Lexus and Porsche also require such heroic measures - their owners would fall out if they realized or saw this occurring.
Anyhow I'm now in the midst of doing a complete engine replacement. Remanufactured engine that is. The night I commented on your video, I had just removed the front intake manifold and discovered more about these and their relation to the air intake system. I was somewhat familiar with the variable valve timing but not at all the actuator and solenoid. But I have found this issue on what exactly is what in the 3 engine especially with the PCV, charcoal cannister, air swirl tumblers, etc. Sometimes it's hard to correctly locate certain parts and I'll have to double confirm them because between all the online Mazda part retailers around the nation, service manual, individual YT'ers parts can have different names. I suppose it makes it all the more fun or perhaps just something that calls for further research which inevitable leads to greater knowledge. I guess I'm weird like that. Something about the Mazda 3 to me is absolutely fascinating. My first 3 cars were 2 Hondas and a VW Jetta. I never was all too interested about under the hood but Mazda fir some reason ...
@@TheAgentAaron Hey thanks for sharing. It's cool how much you can learn if you just have the desire and drive for what you want to learn. Unfortunately, I don't share the same passion for cars as you do for your Mazda. But I do share the passion of trying to fix it myself if the fix is easy enough to where I can save a few bucks. Plus, I grew up with my father in construction so I'm leaning more toward those types of tutorials nowadays. However, I too don't know everything and still learn as I go with each project I do. I really enjoy making videos/youtube hence why I publish my stuff here. I feel like learning new skills and information is probably the better use of our free time compared to the alternative of binge-watching shows and wasting time online. Even though I'm guilty of that sometimes as well. Anyway, good luck on your journey my friend. One day you will know more than those mechanics we are supposed to trust. lol
I can’t find where mine is
Take it to the shop they will find it.
I got P0079 code whats the problem
No clue, use a scanner it should tell you. Or take it to auto store and they will scan it for you and print a report for free.
Background song?
Don’t remember. Sorry
New Intake Manifold Runner: amzn.to/2RrPHUJ
***OTHER REPLACEMENT PARTS***
Cabin Air Filter: amzn.to/2xY1OjW
Air Filter: amzn.to/2NTS5Gj
Oil Filter: amzn.to/2Qot82H
ABS Sensor: amzn.to/2x0xGnM
Other Mazda Parts: amzn.to/2xOq4pt
replaced. code still persists
Maybe another problem? 🤷🏻♂️
The Tubes literally do NOT come off wtf do i do, used pliers as well.
Not sure why ur having such a hard time.
@@Daddicated Ended up removing them it was the hardest part of this whole thing lol...
@@Daddicated Oh and my check engine light is gone, so i thank you!
Can i PM you ?
I need help for my mazda car
Sorry I’m not really a car guy. I just know how to replace certain parts but I usually reach out to a local mechanics for diagnosis.
Dude , you didn't replace the solenoid the new one was 2 black solenoids why you put the old one
Yeah I bought the wrong kind I think so I had to reuse the brown one. The black one did fit.
Is this code p2006?
I want to say yes but I don't really remember anymore. But looking that code up and it looks familiar.
@@Daddicated I think It's P2009
I think there are a few codes for it. On my 09 it threw a p2004 for bank 1 stuck open.
@@kbutrum3060 I have a p2004 on my Mazda 6 09 , were you able to fix with this same process thank you and good day
Why not just replace Intake Runner solenoid?? $12
Not sure cuz at that time this seemed easier
Can't see nothing in your video invest in some lights
Yeah I did. But didn’t have any back then. 🤷🏻
Need help I forgot what noses go where on my 2010 Mazda 3
Sorry i don’t have this car anymore.
@@Daddicated its ok i got it right watched a few videos and saw what ones go where
@@BradleyCosh glad to hear that. 👍🏼