If this video helped you out, please donate! beer.kflo-krib.com/ Here's the link to the materials: Freedom Off Road UCA: amzn.to/3DNFGcy I actually ended up upgrading again to SPC UCA's to fit 35" Tires: amzn.to/2XvOynG Here's the video for that: th-cam.com/video/pNBbmf0Oigs/w-d-xo.html
I had no idea that even existed… thanks for educating me on that. I just finished replacing my UCA’s from SPC… third time doing this under WARRANTY. Never even got to take them offroad. Been watching your video as a “step-by-step” for myself. I have learned a lot. Thanks again brother for teaching me how to do this. I saved over $1,000.00 doing this myself. Really appreciate all the hard work you put i to these videos. Semper Fi and God Bless brother.
I've got a 2015 Tacoma and getting an understanding of basics. Both ball joints replaced today. Tire rotation left steering wobbly. Couldn't get the alignment before the joints done. Oh well. It'sw a standard and is worth the ride. Thank you for your videos.
Heres the deal on the drivers side, your going to need more than pliers to bend fender well due to battery base on fender, get ya a 29" pce. of pipe, I used 1" black iron or galvanized pipe, get a heavy hand sludge, take a marker and draw the path that the uca long bolt is gona take, and smack the pipe into the fender well, doesn't have to be much, will come right out. Lightly sand and spray paint area you pushed in, mine came out pretty good. 2011 tacoma prerunner
Thanks for your very helpful tutorial here. I was able to replace the upper and lower control arm thanks to you. The haynes steps were just not as clear as your video. I ended up sawzawing the sleeve, I live in Philly...
@@TheTexasOiler or you could just jack up the lower control arm with a floor jack until it’s relatively close to how it’ll sit on the ground. Then torque it to spec and lower the jack.
I came here to see what's involved on removing the control arm, specially for the long bolt. But you're right, the suspension has to be jacked up before tightening the control arm bolt/nut.
There's a raised portion of the body on the driver side that may prevent the long bolt from being removed. You may have to Dremel the raised portion down a bit to clear the bolt head.
@@danielandrews9924 it's a professional way of modifying your truck. The bolt can go either way but is mounted on that way from the factory before the body is lowered onto the truck frame. A "hack" is not the same thing as someone who is a hack. 🤦🏾♂️
@@danielandrews9924 literally, Toyota service information and alldata both state "Cut the bolt and remove the bolt and washer. Remove the front suspension upper arm."
Nice video bro thinkn of buyn theses uca how they holding up and are they polyurethane or rubber bushings, just intalled a 2 in lift not sure if it will give alignment problems with stock ucas ?
@@KFloTacoma What up i meant stock uppers and lowers and noticed that the freedom uca have a blk ball joint now not sure if they using shitter parts and prefer rubber bushing over poly less maintenance seen them on amazon think they were 360 for the pair i was thinkn about the jbas ucas
I am about to begin a complete front suspension rebuild on my 2006 Tacoma. It has 198K on it all original. Where can I find lower control arm castor and camber adjusting kit? Also, as for the wheel bearing hub assy, there is an o-ring on it that will need to be replaced before I reinstall but I can't locate that o-ring anywhere. Any ideas where I can purchase two of those? When I say complete rebuild ... I mean Complete, Upper and lower control arms, wheel bearing hubs and inner seals, and shock absorbers. Complete. Will attempt to do all in a three day weekend coming up if I can locate the lower bolt kit and the two o-rings.
The cam bolt is linked in the my lower control arm video. You'll need one per side. The new wheel bearings come with the o rings (at least the ones that I had linked in that video)
@@KFloTacoma just finished upper rebuild front suspension 2006 Tacoma. Took a bit longer as passenger side UCA was broken and shaft rusted into spindle. To replace shock struts, had to remove / loosen the sway bar to get shock out. Did not expect that. Bothe sides finished successfully. Next is the lower control arms, wheel bearing hubs and brakes. Total rebuild underway. Your video tutorials really helped a lot. You made it look easy but in my case not so easy. All original parts in this one so it took a bit more working to get done. Happy Easter!
The freedom was a solid first choice for me when I had 33's. I only switched to SPCs because I was fitting 35's. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
It's really based on your budget, what you're trying to achieve, and how much of a lift you have. If you don't need any additional camber adjustments plus want greasability and increase the durability over stocks, then these Freedom Offroad will work for you. If you want camber adjustability and durability then the SPCs would be a good choice. If you're budget is extremely high and you want superb performance then the dirt kings/icons uppers would be the way to go.
LOL I'll have to clean up the amazon page. I'll definitely update the descriptions in my YT vids too in order to make it easier for you guys to get the right items right away
Hey K, what kind of away bar end links to do have in this video? I have this awful knocking and clatter in the front end when I go over rough roads at speeds over 25 mph. I've been killing myself trying to figure it out. It would be great if it was a nice quick and inexpensive fix like new sway bar end links. Yours have ports for lubricant, right? Thanks bro!!
Hey Matthew, the one's I use are Moog End links. They're on my amazon page. Go to amazon.kflo-krib.com and it's under "steering system and sway bar". Yes, they are greaseable. It sounds like a suspension bushing - definitely do start with the easiest - the end link is definitely a good start. See if it makes noise when you switch from forward and backward. You can check out my "Sway bar delete" video for tips on removal of the end links
Well, doesn’t look complicated looking at the part at the garage, but I guess I don’t feel so bad paying the experts to do it for me. + I was there for an alignment when they told me about the bad upper ball joint.
If you don't want any rubbing (at articulation especially), I would recommend the cabin mount chop. If you don't want the chop, you can watch my fitting 35s video with the SPCs. You may be able to move the caster forward enough with the UCA adjustments
You can check the toe and caster. Watch my alignment at home video. It seems like there may either a slight toe out on the passenger side or toe in at the driver side.
@@KFloTacoma the shop that did the alignment initially was stupid. Took it to a better location that offers one time payment then endless alignments so long as i still own it. Good deal considering all the tinkering and mods i do.
Hey man did you grease the UCA bushings ? Also i heard you are supposed to torque the bolt with the weight of the truck on the ground . After mine were replaced i have squeaking i still cant get rid of it , does yours squeak at all ?
I fixed it not too long ago . Turns out the shop who installed them used a wrong washer that caused it to squeak. It didnt need grease but since i took them out i greased them anyway and replaced the washer
Yes, I am planning on doing the Beilsteins and OME setup in the next couple of months! Stay tuned for that video release! Thank you for the compliment and support! Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow!
You totally can, but really dependent on you and your preference. In engineering design and in terms of safety, if the nut ever fails (very unlikely) the weight of the bolt will prevent the bolt from slipping out. Again, it's up to your personal preference.
Alignment was not a problem before, I did this replacement because the ball joint was starting to go. Driveability is good, no huge difference. Are you having a problem with driveability on yours?
KFlo's Tacoma Build 3 inch lift on stock UCA. Tire wear is uneven trending to the outside of the tire. Steering tracks every little groove in the road. Just wondering how these did before dropping $500+ on an adjustable pair. Thanks!
It sounds like you have a positive camber issue, these ones that I installed are not adjustable. Camber is adjusted at the lower control arms though. Check out my alignment at home video to learn more about measuring and aligning your truck at home
I would recommend using channel locks to bend as well as inspecting the bolt on it's way out. It's a flange bolt and the edge may be catching either the sheet metal or some of the plastic fittings holding one of the AC lines
Nice catch on an easter egg preview. That video clip was a recycle from my lower control arm video replacement. which is actually being edit as we speak. Stay tuned for that video!
Toyota really goofed on that design. Bending metal to get the bolt out? That's a proper shit design lol. Hopefully they changed that for the third gen tacos
Hi Michael, this Freedom Offroad UCA doesn't use a cotter pin and castle nut design. It has a nylock nut instead. Although, I don't mention it you can see in this other video that my current UCA's are SPC's and they are a much better design for larger tires and you can also see that this design has the cotter pin in the videos: th-cam.com/video/pNBbmf0Oigs/w-d-xo.html
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.920 | 3 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KwiW2M_kAg4/mqdefault.jpg)
If this video helped you out, please donate! beer.kflo-krib.com/
Here's the link to the materials:
Freedom Off Road UCA: amzn.to/3DNFGcy
I actually ended up upgrading again to SPC UCA's to fit 35" Tires: amzn.to/2XvOynG
Here's the video for that: th-cam.com/video/pNBbmf0Oigs/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for making this video for the weekend warriors! Other guys used so many specialized tools I don’t have.
Glad it was helpful! Yea, I try to use the most basic hand tools as possible for these jobs. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
I had no idea that even existed… thanks for educating me on that. I just finished replacing my UCA’s from SPC… third time doing this under WARRANTY. Never even got to take them offroad. Been watching your video as a “step-by-step” for myself. I have learned a lot. Thanks again brother for teaching me how to do this. I saved over $1,000.00 doing this myself. Really appreciate all the hard work you put i to these videos. Semper Fi and God Bless brother.
Just a +1 for KFlo. This is not the first video of his that I've watched to see how something is done on a Tacoma. Keep up the good work!
Awesome! thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
I've got a 2015 Tacoma and getting an understanding of basics. Both ball joints replaced today. Tire rotation left steering wobbly. Couldn't get the alignment before the joints done. Oh well. It'sw a standard and is worth the ride. Thank you for your videos.
Got to say, not boring to watch made the install looked easy and gave great insight
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
K-flow, love the videos my friend. Best Tacoma vids on here. Thank you!
Glad you like them! There's more videos to come! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Heres the deal on the drivers side, your going to need more than pliers to bend fender well due to battery base on fender, get ya a 29" pce. of pipe, I used 1" black iron or galvanized pipe, get a heavy hand sludge, take a marker and draw the path that the uca long bolt is gona take, and smack the pipe into the fender well, doesn't have to be much, will come right out. Lightly sand and spray paint area you pushed in, mine came out pretty good. 2011 tacoma prerunner
Awesome video! Very entertaining to watch and informative
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Another excellent job.
Very interesting and informative..
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the compliment and support! Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow!
Thanks for your very helpful tutorial here. I was able to replace the upper and lower control arm thanks to you. The haynes steps were just not as clear as your video. I ended up sawzawing the sleeve, I live in Philly...
Glad it helped, neighbor! yea the northeast will make it tough to remove rusted hardware!
Toyota be like... we make good trucks... bend your shit to get this bolt out lol
Love your videos man. MechE checking in here as well.
Yea buddy! MechE ftw!
Great video!
Awesome! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Actually, before tightening your control arm, you should put a load on your suspension. It will prevent premature bushing wear.
So your saying tighten up the upper control bolts once the wheels are back on and vehicle on the floor then tighten to 85ftlbs
@@TheTexasOiler or you could just jack up the lower control arm with a floor jack until it’s relatively close to how it’ll sit on the ground. Then torque it to spec and lower the jack.
@@shitboxactual exactly. I came to comment this as well.
I came here to see what's involved on removing the control arm, specially for the long bolt. But you're right, the suspension has to be jacked up before tightening the control arm bolt/nut.
Amen!!!! Actual tech knowledge there not just shade tree mechanic shizzzz! I love it!!
It's heavy duty to bear the weight of FREEDOM! LMAO
There's a raised portion of the body on the driver side that may prevent the long bolt from being removed. You may have to Dremel the raised portion down a bit to clear the bolt head.
No, no, no! You damn hacks. Order new bolt, cut old bolt head, remove and then install new bolt from opposite side. 🤦🏾♂️
@@erod6468 this is also a hack
@@danielandrews9924 it's a professional way of modifying your truck. The bolt can go either way but is mounted on that way from the factory before the body is lowered onto the truck frame. A "hack" is not the same thing as someone who is a hack. 🤦🏾♂️
@@erod6468 so the proper way would be to lift the body, swap the control arm, then lower the body back on
@@danielandrews9924 literally, Toyota service information and alldata both state "Cut the bolt and remove the bolt and washer.
Remove the front suspension upper arm."
Nice video bro thinkn of buyn theses uca how they holding up and are they polyurethane or rubber bushings, just intalled a 2 in lift not sure if it will give alignment problems with stock ucas ?
These are rubber bushings and they're still pretty solid. Do you mean pairing these UCA with stock LCA? If that's what you mean, it's not a problem.
@@KFloTacoma
What up i meant stock uppers and lowers and noticed that the freedom uca have a blk ball joint now not sure if they using shitter parts and prefer rubber bushing over poly less maintenance seen them on amazon think they were 360 for the pair i was thinkn about the jbas ucas
I am about to begin a complete front suspension rebuild on my 2006 Tacoma. It has 198K on it all original. Where can I find lower control arm castor and camber adjusting kit? Also, as for the wheel bearing hub assy, there is an o-ring on it that will need to be replaced before I reinstall but I can't locate that o-ring anywhere. Any ideas where I can purchase two of those? When I say complete rebuild ... I mean Complete, Upper and lower control arms, wheel bearing hubs and inner seals, and shock absorbers. Complete. Will attempt to do all in a three day weekend coming up if I can locate the lower bolt kit and the two o-rings.
The cam bolt is linked in the my lower control arm video. You'll need one per side. The new wheel bearings come with the o rings (at least the ones that I had linked in that video)
@@KFloTacoma just finished upper rebuild front suspension 2006 Tacoma. Took a bit longer as passenger side UCA was broken and shaft rusted into spindle. To replace shock struts, had to remove / loosen the sway bar to get shock out. Did not expect that. Bothe sides finished successfully. Next is the lower control arms, wheel bearing hubs and brakes. Total rebuild underway. Your video tutorials really helped a lot. You made it look easy but in my case not so easy. All original parts in this one so it took a bit more working to get done. Happy Easter!
Your the man... 💥
thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Love this video
I'm gald you liked it!
How are those Freedom UCA holding up?
Is it freedom Offroad any good? Im looking for ucas but spc is to expensive for a first gen taco
The freedom was a solid first choice for me when I had 33's. I only switched to SPCs because I was fitting 35's. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
I ordered some for my 02 Silverado which has a 3in leveling kit
3:55 to 5:10 is the part im scared of the most
Quick question, why not install the long bolt thru the other side when reinstalling, looks like there is plenty room. Any reason not to?
Just in the very very rare case the nut gets lose and completely falls off, the bolt won't slowly slide off with gravity
How are they holding up? I have a ironman4x4 3inch lift and need to upgrade the control arms.
Holding up real well. No issues
Hey buddy, I saw you did the front lift Toyota Tacoma, I don’t see that video no more. Can you please upload it
I still have it: th-cam.com/video/j2aIL13H0Zg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much buddy, I watched many times and finally I already did
Thanks. I subscribed
whats your personnal opinion whats the best upper control arm for a 2nd gen tacoma 4WD
It's really based on your budget, what you're trying to achieve, and how much of a lift you have. If you don't need any additional camber adjustments plus want greasability and increase the durability over stocks, then these Freedom Offroad will work for you. If you want camber adjustability and durability then the SPCs would be a good choice. If you're budget is extremely high and you want superb performance then the dirt kings/icons uppers would be the way to go.
Couldnt find where to get the replacement mudguards.
So do you need backspacing on wheels to install this for no rubbing? Or can you use factory wheels and tires
Should be able to use factory wheels and tires. Keep in mind though, that these specific UCA's are for a 2-4" lift.
So alignment will be necessary afterwards
Hey I couldn't find the link to the replacement mud guards?
JK I found them
LOL I'll have to clean up the amazon page. I'll definitely update the descriptions in my YT vids too in order to make it easier for you guys to get the right items right away
kflo i love the puns! hahaha
Haha awesome! I'm glad you like my sense of humor!
@@KFloTacoma btw! would you have kept the freedom uca if you didnt upgrade to 35s?
Yessiree. They were solid UCAs
I can’t get the big king bolt out I’m changing mine using a floor jack and the bolt is hitting the frame
This is for a 4wd correct? My 2wd upper control arm bushing face up,not down. Really had me confused when I got the wrong part.
Yes mine is 4wd
Hey K, what kind of away bar end links to do have in this video? I have this awful knocking and clatter in the front end when I go over rough roads at speeds over 25 mph. I've been killing myself trying to figure it out. It would be great if it was a nice quick and inexpensive fix like new sway bar end links. Yours have ports for lubricant, right? Thanks bro!!
Hey Matthew, the one's I use are Moog End links. They're on my amazon page. Go to amazon.kflo-krib.com and it's under "steering system and sway bar". Yes, they are greaseable. It sounds like a suspension bushing - definitely do start with the easiest - the end link is definitely a good start. See if it makes noise when you switch from forward and backward. You can check out my "Sway bar delete" video for tips on removal of the end links
@@KFloTacoma awesome. Thanks man.
Well, doesn’t look complicated looking at the part at the garage, but I guess I don’t feel so bad paying the experts to do it for me. + I was there for an alignment when they told me about the bad upper ball joint.
Do you need a front end alignment if you’re just replacing the UCA
I would recommend at least checking the toe angles. you can use this video for reference: th-cam.com/video/T9jgIvYc168/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
Why didn't toyota put the long Bolt in witnthe HEAD at the rear then it seems that it would slide right out .
Is this enough to help fit 285's on a 2 inch lift?
If you don't want any rubbing (at articulation especially), I would recommend the cabin mount chop. If you don't want the chop, you can watch my fitting 35s video with the SPCs. You may be able to move the caster forward enough with the UCA adjustments
Excelentes videos!!! 👍🏼
Thank you for the compliment and support! Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow!
What did u think of them personally? Any difference?
They're solid and greaseable and have held up pretty well. I like them since they also don't break the bank
what year is this tacoma? Is it the same for a 2019 with a 6 cylinder
Suspension components are the same on 2nd and 3rd gen so yes this instruction applies to you too. Mine is a 2009
Will these work with 6” lift?
I just upgraded to theses UCA's then got an alignment but now I have a slight drift to the right .... any ideas?
You can check the toe and caster. Watch my alignment at home video. It seems like there may either a slight toe out on the passenger side or toe in at the driver side.
@@KFloTacoma the shop that did the alignment initially was stupid. Took it to a better location that offers one time payment then endless alignments so long as i still own it. Good deal considering all the tinkering and mods i do.
Alignment I typically just do myself to be honest. Some of these shops have a real shady business method and just don't care
Bending the right side inner fender was a pain in the ass, make sure you have big channel locks for that part.
Yea, agreed 100 percent!
Hey man did you grease the UCA bushings ? Also i heard you are supposed to torque the bolt with the weight of the truck on the ground . After mine were replaced i have squeaking i still cant get rid of it , does yours squeak at all ?
Yes, I did Grease the UCA Bushing with Wheel bearing grease. No, mine doesn't squeak. Are you sure the sqeaking is coming from the front?
I fixed it not too long ago . Turns out the shop who installed them used a wrong washer that caused it to squeak. It didnt need grease but since i took them out i greased them anyway and replaced the washer
Awesome installation! Do you have any plans to upgrade suspension anytime soon? I bet some 5100s would look sweet on your truck!
Yes, I am planning on doing the Beilsteins and OME setup in the next couple of months! Stay tuned for that video release! Thank you for the compliment and support! Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow!
What is the right angle of upperarm for 4 inches lift
Wao Toyota was so smart making that so hart to get out
did you grease the bearings of the new uca?
I greased the thru bolt's shaft - so technically yes.
Will i be able to clear a tire that is 12.5 inches wide with this modification?
It depends on the offset of the wheels
How long did it take you to do both sides?
If you carefully take your time, you can probably do both in about 4-6 hours
Can you not install the UCA thru bolt the opposite way for easier removal next time?
You totally can, but really dependent on you and your preference. In engineering design and in terms of safety, if the nut ever fails (very unlikely) the weight of the bolt will prevent the bolt from slipping out. Again, it's up to your personal preference.
Can those upper controls handle a 3in lift?
Yessirree. They are designed for 2-4" lift. You can find the spec details on my amazon page. amazon.kflo-krib.com under "suspension upgrades"
How much did drive-ability and alignment improve after installation?
Alignment was not a problem before, I did this replacement because the ball joint was starting to go. Driveability is good, no huge difference. Are you having a problem with driveability on yours?
KFlo's Tacoma Build 3 inch lift on stock UCA. Tire wear is uneven trending to the outside of the tire. Steering tracks every little groove in the road. Just wondering how these did before dropping $500+ on an adjustable pair. Thanks!
It sounds like you have a positive camber issue, these ones that I installed are not adjustable. Camber is adjusted at the lower control arms though. Check out my alignment at home video to learn more about measuring and aligning your truck at home
KFlo's Tacoma Build will do thanks!
I couldn’t find those mudguards to bro
Hey bro, go to Amazon.Kflo-krib.com and scroll down to "Misc Upgrades"
Thanks fam
bending is what i thought. about reading to cut a notch. im bending the hell out of the body and still nut hitting.
I would recommend using channel locks to bend as well as inspecting the bolt on it's way out. It's a flange bolt and the edge may be catching either the sheet metal or some of the plastic fittings holding one of the AC lines
Nice design Toyota gotta pull the cab or rip up your customers Apron….
Damn this shit looks hard to do....
It does require some time and effort but if you follow this video closely, you'll be OK
The brake line looks over tensioned....just saying.
Holy shit! 6:29 your missing the nut on the lower shock mount.
Nice catch on an easter egg preview. That video clip was a recycle from my lower control arm video replacement. which is actually being edit as we speak. Stay tuned for that video!
@@KFloTacoma I own a 07 Tacoma, Just did the carrier bearing and all the u-joints. Made a big difference. Thanks for the helpful videos.
I'm glad it helped! Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow!
Toyota really goofed on that design. Bending metal to get the bolt out? That's a proper shit design lol. Hopefully they changed that for the third gen tacos
LOL hopefully but looking at the design of the wheel wells, I have some doubt
@@KFloTacoma yup just looked at a third gen yesterday it's the same 😱😱😱
WTF you really have to damage the body to remove the upper control arm bolt? Who the heck designed this????!!!!!
Did you mention re-installing the cotter pin?
Hi Michael, this Freedom Offroad UCA doesn't use a cotter pin and castle nut design. It has a nylock nut instead. Although, I don't mention it you can see in this other video that my current UCA's are SPC's and they are a much better design for larger tires and you can also see that this design has the cotter pin in the videos: th-cam.com/video/pNBbmf0Oigs/w-d-xo.html
DONT BEND THE BODY!
Cut the bolt, reinstall from opposite direction.
Order new UCA bolt, loosen and cut old bolt head and install new bolt from rear to front. Stop bending the crap out of fender. Damn hacks! 🤦🏾♂️
Great video!
Thank you for the compliment and support! Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow!