The BUILD PLANS for this project can be purchased here: bit.ly/30u4d5a . It includes a comprehensive 28 page description of materials, parts, etc. on how to build this subwoofer from beginning to end.
I became a subscriber when I watched your video on the DIY Ported Subwoofer Build. Very impressed with the use of the router. You make beautiful speaker cabinets. I like the soft edges of the majority of your cabinets as they will resist chipping. Your speakers sound good too. I also was not aware of these miniplate amplifier/crossover boards that you install in some of your subwoofers, So I am grateful for the knowledge of them.
I absolutely LOVE this😂 Definitely going to follow this guide step by step! Thanks so much for the great video and detailed guide to follow! Links help a lot too- thank you!
It's a damping material that helps to break up any standing waves that we get inside the enclosure. It also reduces sound waves reflecting back onto the back of the woofer cone. All this helps to 'clean-up' the sound coming from the subwoofer.
I'm interested in building a 6.5 sub enclosure for the best sound quality. Tight bass, no boomy sounding bass. Would it just come down to how rigid the enclosure is?
A rigid enclosure is critical for a subwoofer, however the enclosure must also be designed and modelled well with software. Too small and it can be come boomy at higher low frequencies, and also limit the output at the lower end. Too big and you can again loose output at the lower end. The size of the vent, if going with a bass reflex enclosure is also going to determine the outcome. Too small of a vent can cause port chuffing as the air moves through it. So there are many factors to consider for a good subwoofer enclosure design.
@SoundBlab after all those factors are taken into account, then rigidity? I've always heard the more rigid you can get the enclosure, the better or tighter the bass will be.
Very solid and clean build. Your woodworking is really sophisticated and delicate. Got a question tho, what software do you use to calculate your enclosure and port size? Looking forward to the soundbar build. Thx for the extra effort of filming your creations and posting them on yt :)
@@SoundBlab thanks for getting back so fast, by line out are you referring to speaker cables that run to the subwoofer or is there an RCA connection that I can't see on the board? ( as that's what I'm used to connecting a subwoofer with. )
I wonder if it would of made a difference if he turned it into a 4th order box with that bass radiator facing the ground when sub box sitting right side up probably would of gave it some extra low sounds either way great build my dude 👍
I agree that normally a bit of ventilation would be usefull. However, I feel like this amp is not likely to overheat any time soon, since it is a highly efficient and relatively low power class D amp. I reccon that the little heat the amp might generate, will not be enough to cause any issues. Furthermore, the chip will also be cooled by the aluminium backplate.
@@p_mouse8676 Are you certain that they had the amplifier setup correctly? The chip has an efficiency of 90% which makes it put out very little heat if it is used correctly. It seems to be quite an uncommon issue in online reviews so it might be possible that it was setup incorrectly, maybe a lower than 4 ohm impedance. If not, maybe they got a faulty one?
@@wesselw.7801 They had the amp running free air even. And 90% seems a lot, but that is still not 100%. More over, the PCB design is just really poor, and mostly the inductors on it are WAY to small. (I design amplifiers myself fyi)
@@p_mouse8676 Hmm, well will see of the amp holds up in this configuration :b. Btw cool that you are designing amplifiers :). If I might ask, what is your opinion about the kab250v3 and the dspb250 from dayton audio? I reccon they are cool little boards, but do you have any knowledge about any flaws?
The smaller it is the worse it is. You generally want your subwoofer to only produce sound up to 80-100Hz because then it's hard to tell where the sound is coming from. 5 inch sub is very small and it will be making sounds when you don't want your sub to make any sound, like males with deep voices speaking. For home theatre speakers 6.5 inch subs with sound bars are the bare minimum I would go to and even those are often borderline. My bookshelf speakers have 6.5 inch midrange drivers for example and I have 10 inch sub to match them, which is still considered small in home theatre standards.
If you have small speakers or even a sound bar to pair it with in a very small room you could get away with it, but generally I would not recommend it. Would be better if you still want to go that way, is to use two 5 inch drivers not just one. A 5 inch driver will also not give you much output below 35Hz. So it all depends on the application.
I'm also making a 2.1 boombox bt multimedia portable speaker... But i don't have a single powertool like power drill, power saw etc... It is on the way right now... If you would like to see what i am doing then it will be gladly appreciate for me... You are too good... Love from india...
bro amazing build :) ... i watch all your videos .. specially the entire video without any skip when you use great music in the background... by the way , the sanding sealer you used , was it water based , oil based or laquer based ? also how many coats you applied ?
Another day, and another 6.5" Tang Band project. We need some new tiny subs, and the Tang Band subs leave some big shoes for any new driver design to fill.
Seemed unnecessarily complicated for a sub box. Could’ve used 3/4 inch plywood and skipped internal bracing. Also that port looked super tiny, what velocity is that pushing at max volume?
Of course you can use a thicker material, but bracing eliminates the need for that. Even with 3/4 inch I still think bracing will be a good idea. The port was modelled to avoid any chuffing that might occur at higher volumes. You can pump this to its max, and still not hear any chuffing from the port.
@@__-fm5qv Hmm! I doubt they'd be much output at the lower frequencies compared to it's sweet spot of 60-80hz with a 6.5". I'm sure it can play 20hz and 30hz but how much output does it loose?
@@BUZDRIFT Well the 5.25" version I have is playing down to 37hz at -3db. These drivers are pretty much exclusively designed to go deep, but at the sacrifice of overall sensitivity and some reponsiveness/tightness.
The BUILD PLANS for this project can be purchased here: bit.ly/30u4d5a . It includes a comprehensive 28 page description of materials, parts, etc. on how to build this subwoofer from beginning to end.
The perfectionist in me wanted the amp plate to be flushed into the panel..
Great build though and looking forward to part 2!
Same thoughts brother
Wow nice 👏👌 .From 🇮🇳 India
Thanks
I became a subscriber when I watched your video on the DIY Ported Subwoofer Build. Very impressed with the use of the router. You make beautiful speaker cabinets. I like the soft edges of the majority of your cabinets as they will resist chipping. Your speakers sound good too. I also was not aware of these miniplate amplifier/crossover boards that you install in some of your subwoofers, So I am grateful for the knowledge of them.
Thank you very much!
I absolutely LOVE this😂
Definitely going to follow this guide step by step!
Thanks so much for the great video and detailed guide to follow!
Links help a lot too- thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice professional look
Thanks!
Wow, great job. You sure have skills building your own speakers. Very cool!
Thank you very much!
SoundBlab You’re welcome 😉
It's like watching Bob Ross paint. Excellent work. Btw, those drivers are crazy good for their size.
Thanks 👍
Great build, keep it up. Learned a lot from you.
Thanks
Fantastic Job
@9:00 I thought you were doing this freehand ,,, until I saw the bearing cutter..
Nice job ....
Thanks
Interesting to watch, making it from a scratch to a subwoofer
Glad you liked it!
awesome built!
Thanks!
The work is beautiful and tidy. Congratulations!
Thanks
Looks so beautiful and neat in the minimal design. Waiting for the next video.
Thanks a lot 😊
@@SoundBlab Will it make any difference if I switch the position of the sub from bottom to the front and using the same enclosure dimension?
Awesome job bud. All straight cuts and easy to do. Love the top plate as well
Thanks
It helps when you have all the equipment at hand. I am afraid too many steps, and pieces to cut and put together for me. Should sound good.
Yeah exactly
It's great ... it's been a while since I saw you on the video, good health & lots of fun 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
good job, very inspiring,......greetings from Indonesia
Thank you very much!
Nice work
Thanks
beautifully done your work is impeccable.
Thank you very much!
This is absolutely great design, and Im gonna do very similar one.
But question is this amp enough for for this little fella?
The amp does a really good job. I don't think it needs more power.
Como é feita a refrigeração do amplificador?
Não existe nenhuma saída ou entrada de ar, o amplificador não queima?
sound very good
Many thanks!
Amazing work!
Thanks a lot!
Make two of these then put on right and left it Will make deeper and Slam impact and presure of bass
two will be great!
@@SoundBlab yupp
What ended up being the final frequency response of this subwoofer?
May i ask yoou what the function of the white cotton mesh you put inside?
It's a damping material that helps to break up any standing waves that we get inside the enclosure. It also reduces sound waves reflecting back onto the back of the woofer cone. All this helps to 'clean-up' the sound coming from the subwoofer.
@@SoundBlab Got it, so its let us to hear the 'solid' or 'pure' sound that came out from the cone
I'm interested in building a 6.5 sub enclosure for the best sound quality. Tight bass, no boomy sounding bass.
Would it just come down to how rigid the enclosure is?
A rigid enclosure is critical for a subwoofer, however the enclosure must also be designed and modelled well with software. Too small and it can be come boomy at higher low frequencies, and also limit the output at the lower end. Too big and you can again loose output at the lower end. The size of the vent, if going with a bass reflex enclosure is also going to determine the outcome. Too small of a vent can cause port chuffing as the air moves through it. So there are many factors to consider for a good subwoofer enclosure design.
@SoundBlab after all those factors are taken into account, then rigidity?
I've always heard the more rigid you can get the enclosure, the better or tighter the bass will be.
Very good job !
Thanks a lot!
Plz tell me the dimentions of sealed enclosure box for one 12 inch, 2000 watts rms sub woofer ?
Good 👍👍
Thanks
Very nice brother
Thanks
Hi sir im your new subscriber i enjoy your work , watching here from the phillippines
Thanks for subbing
Nice sub
Thanks
Satisfying video
Thank you
Very solid and clean build. Your woodworking is really sophisticated and delicate. Got a question tho, what software do you use to calculate your enclosure and port size?
Looking forward to the soundbar build. Thx for the extra effort of filming your creations and posting them on yt :)
Thanks. I used WinISD to determine the enclosure and port size.
Can we connect speakers on this .
If you use the recommended plate amp, then yes. You can create a 2.1 system.
How does the sub plug into the arylic? I've bought plans for the soundbar design, but already have a sub to use Thanks mate
I use the line output from the Arylic to plug into the sub, which is a 2.1 plate amp.
@@SoundBlab thanks for getting back so fast, by line out are you referring to speaker cables that run to the subwoofer or is there an RCA connection that I can't see on the board? ( as that's what I'm used to connecting a subwoofer with. )
The information is useful
Glad you think so!
@SoundBlab Will it make any difference if I switch the position of the sub from bottom to the front and using the same enclosure dimension?
You can do that. It will perform the same.
@@SoundBlab thankyou
Great sub mate!! Well done! 3:26 song is? :)
Thanks! I get my songs from epidemicsound.com, so not sure what track this is, I don't really keep track of the tracks I download, sorry man!
@@SoundBlab ok no worries :) keep up the good work :)
Looks and sounds awesome! I'm always impressed by your consistently improving production quality.
Thank you very much!
What 3D CAD u are using
I mostly use SketchUp and sometimes Fusion 360.
Hi where can I get the subwoofer board
link in the description of the video.
Seus sons são perfeitos
Tx
Nice work where are you based?
Thanks. Cape Town
Can you give me free measurements for this subwoofer box
Awesome👍🤩!
Thanks 🤗
I wonder if it would of made a difference if he turned it into a 4th order box with that bass radiator facing the ground when sub box sitting right side up probably would of gave it some extra low sounds either way great build my dude 👍
4th orders don’t magically play lower than bass reflex boxes… dunno where you’re getting your information from bro
Super, excellent
Thank you very much
Can I get this and price pls
Plz box size
Sir I build to my subwofer to you macking for you
What is the Fe value of this?
Don't know what Fe is, but the Fb or -3dB point of the response lies at roughly 35Hz.
@@SoundBlab de I mean. Damn. 36Hz is very good for the size.
@@SoundBlab 35 i mean.
Wo ist der Stromanschluß für die Endstufe? Wolf-Dieter Manzke
It has a 12v power socket on the back of the plate amp. It connects to an external power supply.
Amazing absolutely neat!
Wow, , it so cool
Thanks
What is the height you given for sub woofer box..??
400mm
are you from South-Africa sir
Yes
i can make box ..but i don't know where to buy all system for complete music system
Great video! Does the Amp need more ventilation? It seems that there’s no airflow around the electronics.
I agree that normally a bit of ventilation would be usefull. However, I feel like this amp is not likely to overheat any time soon, since it is a highly efficient and relatively low power class D amp. I reccon that the little heat the amp might generate, will not be enough to cause any issues. Furthermore, the chip will also be cooled by the aluminium backplate.
@@wesselw.7801 unfortunately I have seen the opposite from a lot of people with this particular amp. It overheats very quickly. Not very reliable.
@@p_mouse8676 Are you certain that they had the amplifier setup correctly? The chip has an efficiency of 90% which makes it put out very little heat if it is used correctly. It seems to be quite an uncommon issue in online reviews so it might be possible that it was setup incorrectly, maybe a lower than 4 ohm impedance. If not, maybe they got a faulty one?
@@wesselw.7801 They had the amp running free air even. And 90% seems a lot, but that is still not 100%.
More over, the PCB design is just really poor, and mostly the inductors on it are WAY to small. (I design amplifiers myself fyi)
@@p_mouse8676 Hmm, well will see of the amp holds up in this configuration :b. Btw cool that you are designing amplifiers :). If I might ask, what is your opinion about the kab250v3 and the dspb250 from dayton audio? I reccon they are cool little boards, but do you have any knowledge about any flaws?
Cool build but that port looks dangerously small. Port Noise?
For a 6.5" driver that seems like enough port area, it is fairly wide. And it also probably helps achieve a lower port tuning.
It actually does not create any port noise, even at full volume. I made sure to look at this when I was modelling the enclosure in software.
Oh that sounded great?
O master please take me as your apprentice. You're so skillfull in woodworking!
You didn't show us the sound check...
Go look at the soundbar video.
Ask for a wood cutting form (recipe) thank you.
Check the build plan in the description.
Nicely done. Are you using a brad nailer or a finish nailer?
Thanks. Brad nailer
I want to purchase this sub how to buy n where from i buy this sub.
what software do you use to create such cool stuff?
How made a 2.1 channel computer speaker with 25 hz bass
None of these build links seem to work for me
Pls tell me, is a 5 inch sub is good for making a home theatre
The smaller it is the worse it is. You generally want your subwoofer to only produce sound up to 80-100Hz because then it's hard to tell where the sound is coming from. 5 inch sub is very small and it will be making sounds when you don't want your sub to make any sound, like males with deep voices speaking.
For home theatre speakers 6.5 inch subs with sound bars are the bare minimum I would go to and even those are often borderline. My bookshelf speakers have 6.5 inch midrange drivers for example and I have 10 inch sub to match them, which is still considered small in home theatre standards.
@@UhOhUmm thanks for your words, opinion from an experienced person is more helpful to me
If you have small speakers or even a sound bar to pair it with in a very small room you could get away with it, but generally I would not recommend it. Would be better if you still want to go that way, is to use two 5 inch drivers not just one. A 5 inch driver will also not give you much output below 35Hz. So it all depends on the application.
Perfeito muito bom
Thanks
I'm also making a 2.1 boombox bt multimedia portable speaker... But i don't have a single powertool like power drill, power saw etc... It is on the way right now... If you would like to see what i am doing then it will be gladly appreciate for me... You are too good... Love from india...
you're the man
Thanks!
bro amazing build :) ... i watch all your videos .. specially the entire video without any skip when you use great music in the background...
by the way , the sanding sealer you used , was it water based , oil based or laquer based ? also how many coats you applied ?
Thanks! I think it is a lacquer based sealer. I normally apply 2 coats with sanding in between.
How can I buy this product? I'm from india.
Any online website available for buy this product?👍
I only sell build plans , not the actual product on my website soundblab.net.
Do you source your speakers locally in SA or are they all imported?
all imported
Another day, and another 6.5" Tang Band project. We need some new tiny subs, and the Tang Band subs leave some big shoes for any new driver design to fill.
Yeah for sure. I would love to see another manufacturer come to the table here.
Where is sound test ???
Next video after this one where I build the soundbar that goes with this sub.
Quick tip: don't solder wire ends that are going into solder terminals, the solder can migrate and you'll end up with loose wires 👍
I've been wiring pots like that for years and I haven't had an issue with it.
Seemed unnecessarily complicated for a sub box. Could’ve used 3/4 inch plywood and skipped internal bracing. Also that port looked super tiny, what velocity is that pushing at max volume?
Of course you can use a thicker material, but bracing eliminates the need for that. Even with 3/4 inch I still think bracing will be a good idea. The port was modelled to avoid any chuffing that might occur at higher volumes. You can pump this to its max, and still not hear any chuffing from the port.
I would round the edges in the tunnel.
прикольная фреза по дереву
Why when you finish a video you say goodbye with a adiós in Spanish?, it's one thing that intrigues me ^^
There is no particular reason, it's just something I do.
Amigo cuantos parlantes, si hizo 2orificios i solo coloco 1
very nyce
Thanks
M. R. P Kay hai
Please give me size inches .
Not milimiter
I only work in metric.
Throughly enjoyed watching the build.
Thanks
looks like it will last for 10 years
I hope so!
make the box with wireless
For my needs I do not require wireless connection. So for now I will not go this way.
Plz
12inch sub box
Measurement
And detail
This little thing will struggle in the lower frequencies and even the 30's might have significantly low output ...?!
It'll probably be fine down to the mid 20's or so, the smaller 5.25" version of this woofer can managed mid 30's just fine.
@@__-fm5qv Hmm! I doubt they'd be much output at the lower frequencies compared to it's sweet spot of 60-80hz with a 6.5". I'm sure it can play 20hz and 30hz but how much output does it loose?
@@BUZDRIFT Well the 5.25" version I have is playing down to 37hz at -3db. These drivers are pretty much exclusively designed to go deep, but at the sacrifice of overall sensitivity and some reponsiveness/tightness.
@@__-fm5qv Yeah, that's actually pretty good for such a small driver! Damn!
Look like music instrument cajon
I want to make may yamaha 5.1 into a soundbar. And rebuild its subwoofer box.
I form to Indian 🇮🇳
you make an entire video about this and we dont even get to hear it god damn
Good video thanks, but the Music is 🤬