Это изумительно пропорциональная и эстетичная вещь! Это говорит о том, что правильная техника всегда выглядит прекрасно, так как всё в ней направлено на функциональность, а не на броский дизайн, рассчитанный на широкого потребителя. Браво 100000000! Спасибо и всего наилучшего! Просто супер!
Once again a fine build. I always look forward to watching your videos, partly also because of your choice of music in your videos, which is always excellent! I always have a good time when watching your videos! Thanks!
@@SoundBlab I used a ceramic sewer pipe for a 25cm diameter woofer, 70ish cm high, 40cm total diameter. They need not be too large if you can make the material dead. Sewer pipes can be had here and there for bargains, unused, maybe where you are too? You could also optimise by floor size, I have another sewer pipe, but plastic (other materials too heavy), it is cheap, only 25cm total diameter, and comes in standard length of 5,5m. So, I cut it down to 2,40m exactly to me ceiling, now I need a way to put it upright and be stable enough. IIRC 90cm or so of 10cm reflex pipe will put me at up to 18Hz flat. Big pipes are easy and good. For subs anyway.
@@OlavAlexanderMjelde Using a ceramic sewer pipe? Unlikely. Plastic sewerpipe? Probably if you have the connector pieces but no idea how that will affect the sound, sharp corners, and 25cm across still means a rather high couch. I optimized for least amount of floorspace, to just take in vertical space instead, not tiny size in general because it really is not.
It's really flat in the responce, smooth and tight.... is there a video on small battery powered amps as I'm thinking of a portable system with a extra amp to power this when there space and time for the exta subwoofer... Intresting for live song making in the woods or on a mountain
would have been great to maybe use a di-pole driver to see how much audio spectrum you could cover with just that enclosure. Great build BTW, always enjoy watching your creative new projects.
I should know better to watch how I say things. I understand what you're saying, and I understand the complexity of tuning transmission lines. Thank you for highlighting my failure in the english language.
i really do appreciate those tang band subs, i used to have a z2300 but the amp died and then a few days ago i decided to build a new enclosure for it and it bangs. The sub that was used in the Z2300 is the Tang Band W8-670Q which is now fitted into a ~100Liter enclosure tuned to 30Hz which gives me a F3 of around 27Hz and a relatively flat respone
@@SoundBlab you can also take a cut sheet to your timber merchant and they will pre-cut stock to size for you to an accuracy of plus minus a couple of mm, which can then be flush trimmed to final size with a router and a metal guide rail if you need absolutely hair-splitting accuracy.
nice build, just a tip for a box transmission, the port needs 45 degree angles at each turn (use wood), to guide the pressure wave used to prevent pressure bounce back into the t-line.
Thanks. I would not go so far as to say that it needs it, but it will surely help the flow of air. There are many highly regarded commercial designs out there that do not always implement this, and they seem to still function as intended. I get what you say though 🙂
Actually, the corner pieces are usually cut to the size to make the bend the same surface area as the line. An ideal corner piece would therefor me concave to keep the perfect surface area. :)
i have a 4inch 4ohm 20w woofer from an old cheap subwoofer which i don't know the ts parameters but it plays under 40hz well free air Can i still use this build? To prevent damage i'll just lower the gain on my amp Will this build work for me without knowing the ts parameters of my woofer if i dont play too loud?
At some point I noticed that certain subs _sound_ deeper or shallower than others at the same note like say 30 or 40hz. They both clearly play the same note but there's either a deep or shallow undertone present. This is different to "getting down to 10hz". Anyone know what I'm talking about? I feel like this is an underrated characteristic that isn't noticed or talked about often enough and I'm trying to figure out what causes it
A full range TL design needs the stuffing to attenuate a dip in the midband, but a TL as a subwoofer with a lowpass filter doesn't need stuffing at all. In fact the stuffing has a side effect of attenuating the low end output. So it really shouldn't be there.
Hey soundblab! Your driver fs is 35hz. So the lenght of the port should be 96 inches to produce 35hz and the port should be continuous. But in your design the port length looks less than 50inch and is also not continuous.. can you please explain this?
Can't remember exactly what the line length ended up being, but often by playing around with the line length and placement of the driver, you can smooth out the response and get a similar result to a longer line.
I have never seen the driver placed midway through the line section. Its always at the other end or farthest away from the port opening. Lengthwise. If that makes sense. It's odd like this. A Unicorn box.
Made my first with some old tear down parts of old stuff, not as small, due to needed to be at least 12”x14”x and went with x 10 sidewall which placed ext. wall and act as side ports for surround acoustic with additional top ported tube. I have very minor knowledge on boxes or properly distributing sound. The 4” micro sub is in its own separate box within the box as sorta of a double boxed concept acting as a double semi compressed bass -air-per-cubic ft. Which i was iffy about. And only using 2 smaller 3inch full range audio speakers in front of box and i only designed 2 split sound walls to control the acoustic to ported sidewalls , which front to rear go 7 inches to back- once again i have no clue what i am doing , to know whats best. Lol just and idea of how i thought i wanted it to work with lil to no knowledge . Let me tell you something though. The quality of 300deg. Sound shocked more than just i ! They bass shakes whatever you did not know was loose in the house or area. The neighbor from 3rd floor , i do not even know , as i walked out to put into car before work to get some paint on it , asked if that was playing on and off last couple days? I replied yes as i was checking to see sub hertz range for 6-7 min. Each time. He replied -wth ! That is one bad*** loud box , it can shake somethings in here and i thought it was someones subs in a car. Lol -note these are very newly built solid and very quite apartments and that was the 3rd floor. My wife won’t even let me play it in the house . But i did noticed the 2” x1” side ports built in sidewalls were not enough and i thought would be too much or plenty for the small pre-boxes sub at base of box , but they were actually not enough i found out later on accident . So i ended up putting a flush port tube at the rear top of box and that increased bass and the bass quality of surround as the speakers were already. I think the reason for this was , that on the sidewalls i decided to close the side ported areas off box with audio mesh for a nice, clean look and it cut down on the air to be able to exit box as much as did before and compresses against self. So the ported tub on top helped not only get that back , but made it even better in all aspects. Never expected that lil sub to need so much air . Given its pre-box size is 12x14x3.75
Hi there. I like all of your videos since you explain things in very easy terms to understand, particularly, for a newbie, like myself, and which has led me to start building my system from scratch. One of the things I'm planning to build is a Transmission Line enclosure. Got a question - let's say my target frequency were 35Hz using a driver with a frequency response of 44Hz - 22000Hz. So, 35Hz is below 44Hz. Will my T-Line enclosure be able to hit the target? Or I do I need to set a new target at a point no lower than the one part of the driver's frequency response? Is there any restriction aside from the length of the tunnel and its cross-sectional area? Can it be tuned for any given frequency regardless of the speakers frequency response? Regards and, please, never stop making videos.
Thanks man! It's difficult to say. It all depends on the driver specifications. You can go lower than the FS of the driver, but would not push it beyond 5 or 10 dB. The driver will run out of steam and you will get what we call a shelved response in the lower part of the frequency response. This transmission line calculator will help you to determine the ideal response: www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/TML.html
A vented enclosure typically has a large volume from which a port runs out, however here you do not have a large enclosure, it is essentially just a 'port' or thus TL. Moving the driver up and down that TL (within limits) you can fine tune the response.
The stuffing is there to slow down the speed of the air, which makes the transmission line 'appear' longer to the driver. Remove it and it will affect the frequency response and bass output.
The Tang Band W4-2089 isn't available on PartsExpress (200 min buy + 4 month lead-time). Is there another smallish driver 5-6" that has similar performance that you would recommend for a similar build (scaled up for a larger driver if necessary). Seems like most of the woofers in the 6" size have a frequency response starting at around 90Hz where the TB starts at 35Hz.
This is an awesome little build. I'm familiar with T-line enclosures, but isn't the top chamber in this build redundant? It seems like the sub is installed in the middle of the line.
No - it's not redundant at all, actually, its pretty clever! Bose use a similar approach in their designs. www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/243483-improved-transmission-line-alignment.html And before one dismisses Bose, I've yet to hear anyone worth their weight criticize Bose for their engineering th-cam.com/video/CZaRQT3Rvaw/w-d-xo.html .. actually, the engineering is pretty sound. What Bose don't do well is to then take that brilliant engineering and desecrate it using really bad, cheap drivers IMO.
The sound of a Transmission Line (TL) is best described as 'just there'. No emphasis, really easy and tight sounding if designed right. If you're a 'bass-head' you'll probably want to pick a Bass-Reflex (BR)
amazing bass for the size. my first DIY sub 15 years ago is a Sony 12inch, around 380wrms. It was too much and unwieldy, I'd be happy with this 4inch. 🥹
Reformulated question: Would it be possible to add a mini tweeter to a 2.0-channel soundbar via serial connection, turning it into a 3.0 channel soundbar to get a better sound clarity (clear and crisp dialogues)?
Moving the driver up or down the line (within certain limits) will affect the frequency response and in certain cases reduce the required line length for a more optimal response.
Is this a constant CSA using Sd, 0.75Sd or ~ 1.5Sd maybe? and a line length of 75”-80” to f3 @40hz? Im looking for a last minute xmas solution as my other plan got foiled at the last moment ...
It's just a straight line where the mouth of the line is equal to the Sd of the driver. F3 should be around that, yes. I have the SketchUp drawing on my Patreon page.
Not silly at all! I have actually changed the original design you've seen here so that it can be built without the need to router the square hole in the baffle. You can then just assemble all the panels and drop the driver in place.
you did not get a maze, as the first spacer inside the case is useless - it does not isolate the space behind the speaker. It was necessary to do the struts obliquely.
In many t-lines the speaker is placed at an interval away from the start. Many are also heavily tapered. It's about resonance and standing waves. Think of a flute, the mouthpiece is places about 1/3 away from the top, but the entire chamber is still used for resonance.
This looks great! Whats the f3 of this sub and how does the driver generally perform? I'm currently planning a build using this driver so I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks. The driver does well in this enclosure, and can handle quite a bit of power. It really moves a lot of air. I have not yet measured the F3, but modelled should be in the range of 35Hz or 40Hz. Perhaps I'll do a follow up video in the new year where I can do this and show some more stats.
That is not entirely true tho... Transmission line enclosures rely heavily on stuffing to absorb the 'higher' frenquencies. An unstuffed transmission line sounds quite rubbish tbh. Very undefined and unbalanced. I've tinkered quite a lot with these types of enclosures, and this is what I was able to conclude.
@@SoundBlab thanks for the reply btw I meant how can I calc. thiele n small's parameters ... like using only pc ( as a freq. gen ) and a multimeter? xD
The tunnel right behind the driver is a "dead" end, but the other tunnel moves the air downwards and out the front. The question is, why did he stuff the air port full of fluff
What website calculator did you use for t line? How do you compare it to Bose bass? Since they use small subs also, prooving small can be sufficient. Nice craftsmanship!!
Это изумительно пропорциональная и эстетичная вещь! Это говорит о том, что правильная техника всегда выглядит прекрасно, так как всё в ней направлено на функциональность, а не на броский дизайн, рассчитанный на широкого потребителя. Браво 100000000! Спасибо и всего наилучшего! Просто супер!
Thanks!
What are the measurements of the box?
Very well done, I listened with a nice pair of headphones and it has an impressive range. Thank you for sharing!
Many thanks!
7:04 the test section makes my pioneer sp1500 go blast 🔊
Good enclosure
the stuffing is at the beggining of the line
lol
Once again a fine build. I always look forward to watching your videos, partly also because of your choice of music in your videos, which is always excellent! I always have a good time when watching your videos! Thanks!
Thanks so much!
boss, why is the port added a silencer? what is the function?
Impressive. I would add a bit more stuffing to tighten it up a bit. I'm listening to it through my two 12" subs and I can't believe how low it goes.
would really appreciate a video like this for a 10" or 12" subwoofer
Might be a very large enclosure, but I am also interested to do something like that. Maybe future video...
@@SoundBlab I used a ceramic sewer pipe for a 25cm diameter woofer, 70ish cm high, 40cm total diameter. They need not be too large if you can make the material dead. Sewer pipes can be had here and there for bargains, unused, maybe where you are too?
You could also optimise by floor size, I have another sewer pipe, but plastic (other materials too heavy), it is cheap, only 25cm total diameter, and comes in standard length of 5,5m. So, I cut it down to 2,40m exactly to me ceiling, now I need a way to put it upright and be stable enough. IIRC 90cm or so of 10cm reflex pipe will put me at up to 18Hz flat.
Big pipes are easy and good. For subs anyway.
@@jamegumb7298 can you make that shaped as many S, so its more compact under a couch?
T-Line boxes, by nature are not compact.
@@OlavAlexanderMjelde Using a ceramic sewer pipe? Unlikely. Plastic sewerpipe? Probably if you have the connector pieces but no idea how that will affect the sound, sharp corners, and 25cm across still means a rather high couch. I optimized for least amount of floorspace, to just take in vertical space instead, not tiny size in general because it really is not.
Cool build. The actual science behind the build would make for alot more views. Id like to learn the port science.
Thanks
It's really flat in the responce, smooth and tight.... is there a video on small battery powered amps as I'm thinking of a portable system with a extra amp to power this when there space and time for the exta subwoofer... Intresting for live song making in the woods or on a mountain
I would cover with grill of some sort. and maybe carpet the housing.
Beautiful build.
TX
I don't think this will be going in a car somehow 🤣
Good work! Frequency response from 55Hz-60Hz - I think so
would have been great to maybe use a di-pole driver to see how much audio spectrum you could cover with just that enclosure. Great build BTW, always enjoy watching your creative new projects.
I should know better to watch how I say things. I understand what you're saying, and I understand the complexity of tuning transmission lines. Thank you for highlighting my failure in the english language.
I love the tang band woofers. No other company makes them like they do.
I'm gonna use the 5 1/4 inch subwoofer and a slightly larger box.
Cool
i really do appreciate those tang band subs, i used to have a z2300 but the amp died and then a few days ago i decided to build a new enclosure for it and it bangs.
The sub that was used in the Z2300 is the Tang Band W8-670Q which is now fitted into a ~100Liter enclosure tuned to 30Hz which gives me a F3 of around 27Hz and a relatively flat respone
My DIY TL sub measures 1½ feet wide, 4⅔ feet high and 2⅓ feet depth. Produces sound that propagate on floor. Real nice subsonic sound.
can you show as how its sound when is on the car ? :) love this small projects :)
👍🏻 Good work as always ! From Germany 🇩🇪
Thank you!
@@SoundBlab you didn't take my design for a subwoofer 😢
hello please can you put the measurements thanks a greeting
I can see that having a table saw making accurate cutting really easy . It's not so easy free hand with a circular saw
It does, but only if set up accurately. You can use a guide rail with the circular saw and still get very accurate cuts.
@@SoundBlab you can also take a cut sheet to your timber merchant and they will pre-cut stock to size for you to an accuracy of plus minus a couple of mm, which can then be flush trimmed to final size with a router and a metal guide rail if you need absolutely hair-splitting accuracy.
You can get some linear guides for a circular saw. Very effective! And cheap!
@@weareallbeingwatched4602 That's what I do. I'm not going to make things way harder for myself just to save pocket change.
nice build, just a tip for a box transmission, the port needs 45 degree angles at each turn (use wood), to guide the pressure wave used to prevent pressure bounce back into the t-line.
Thanks. I would not go so far as to say that it needs it, but it will surely help the flow of air. There are many highly regarded commercial designs out there that do not always implement this, and they seem to still function as intended. I get what you say though 🙂
Actually, the corner pieces are usually cut to the size to make the bend the same surface area as the line. An ideal corner piece would therefor me concave to keep the perfect surface area. :)
no hole saw?? great job
If only a hole saw could drill a square hole ;)
How many Vas liter this box . Sir? For 4 inch speaker
4.59 l
i have a 4inch 4ohm 20w woofer from an old cheap subwoofer which i don't know the ts parameters but it plays under 40hz well free air
Can i still use this build?
To prevent damage i'll just lower the gain on my amp
Will this build work for me without knowing the ts parameters of my woofer if i dont play too loud?
At some point I noticed that certain subs _sound_ deeper or shallower than others at the same note like say 30 or 40hz. They both clearly play the same note but there's either a deep or shallow undertone present. This is different to "getting down to 10hz". Anyone know what I'm talking about? I feel like this is an underrated characteristic that isn't noticed or talked about often enough and I'm trying to figure out what causes it
Forgive my ignorance, I'm new to the music sound quality scene. What is the purpose of the white matting?
Jeremy Knight to reproduce bass frequencies clearer as the bass won’t echo as much and over all will just sound better 😀
Sound dampening. Is causes sound waves to travel more slowly in the enclosure which simulates having a larger enclosure.
Curious on what it would sound like without the material in there
Maybe less "creamy"? :)
Boomy, and probably less tight.
A full range TL design needs the stuffing to attenuate a dip in the midband, but a TL as a subwoofer with a lowpass filter doesn't need stuffing at all. In fact the stuffing has a side effect of attenuating the low end output. So it really shouldn't be there.
Hey soundblab! Your driver fs is 35hz. So the lenght of the port should be 96 inches to produce 35hz and the port should be continuous. But in your design the port length looks less than 50inch and is also not continuous.. can you please explain this?
Can't remember exactly what the line length ended up being, but often by playing around with the line length and placement of the driver, you can smooth out the response and get a similar result to a longer line.
Do you know where to get a good 4 inch subwoofer because my 4 inch subwoofer blew in my gaming chair and need a new one please help🙏
What was the name of the application which you used to model the transmission line. I can't make out waht exactly was said.
Hornresp www.hornresp.net/
@@SoundBlab thankyou.
im curious what the result would be if you took half the depth off from the box and shrunk the port spacing to 1/3 of its current measurement.
suffer port noise
I do wish I could get this Subwoofer in my part of the world! Shipping to NZ is a killer!
Can you please build a 2 inch t-line sub box?
Minimize screen to 50%
Phase in t-line speakers is a trip. Should I first just make the enclosure and then add volume inside the case to unify the phase?
I have never seen the driver placed midway through the line section. Its always at the other end or farthest away from the port opening. Lengthwise. If that makes sense. It's odd like this. A Unicorn box.
How it's sound?,looks similar with Bose accoustimas design
Made my first with some old tear down parts of old stuff, not as small, due to needed to be at least 12”x14”x and went with x 10 sidewall which placed ext. wall and act as side ports for surround acoustic with additional top ported tube. I have very minor knowledge on boxes or properly distributing sound. The 4” micro sub is in its own separate box within the box as sorta of a double boxed concept acting as a double semi compressed bass -air-per-cubic ft. Which i was iffy about. And only using 2 smaller 3inch full range audio speakers in front of box and i only designed 2 split sound walls to control the acoustic to ported sidewalls , which front to rear go 7 inches to back- once again i have no clue what i am doing , to know whats best. Lol just and idea of how i thought i wanted it to work with lil to no knowledge . Let me tell you something though. The quality of 300deg. Sound shocked more than just i ! They bass shakes whatever you did not know was loose in the house or area. The neighbor from 3rd floor , i do not even know , as i walked out to put into car before work to get some paint on it , asked if that was playing on and off last couple days? I replied yes as i was checking to see sub hertz range for 6-7 min. Each time. He replied -wth ! That is one bad*** loud box , it can shake somethings in here and i thought it was someones subs in a car. Lol -note these are very newly built solid and very quite apartments and that was the 3rd floor. My wife won’t even let me play it in the house . But i did noticed the 2” x1” side ports built in sidewalls were not enough and i thought would be too much or plenty for the small pre-boxes sub at base of box , but they were actually not enough i found out later on accident . So i ended up putting a flush port tube at the rear top of box and that increased bass and the bass quality of surround as the speakers were already. I think the reason for this was , that on the sidewalls i decided to close the side ported areas off box with audio mesh for a nice, clean look and it cut down on the air to be able to exit box as much as did before and compresses against self. So the ported tub on top helped not only get that back , but made it even better in all aspects. Never expected that lil sub to need so much air . Given its pre-box size is 12x14x3.75
boss, why is the port added a silencer? what is the function?
Why that stuffing is used?
Hi there. I like all of your videos since you explain things in very easy terms to understand, particularly, for a newbie, like myself, and which has led me to start building my system from scratch. One of the things I'm planning to build is a Transmission Line enclosure. Got a question - let's say my target frequency were 35Hz using a driver with a frequency response of 44Hz - 22000Hz. So, 35Hz is below 44Hz. Will my T-Line enclosure be able to hit the target? Or I do I need to set a new target at a point no lower than the one part of the driver's frequency response? Is there any restriction aside from the length of the tunnel and its cross-sectional area? Can it be tuned for any given frequency regardless of the speakers frequency response? Regards and, please, never stop making videos.
Thanks man! It's difficult to say. It all depends on the driver specifications. You can go lower than the FS of the driver, but would not push it beyond 5 or 10 dB. The driver will run out of steam and you will get what we call a shelved response in the lower part of the frequency response. This transmission line calculator will help you to determine the ideal response: www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/TML.html
@@SoundBlab Thanks for the info and link. I'll jump to it right away
What makes this a transmission line? To me this looks like a vented enclosure with a long folded port?
A vented enclosure typically has a large volume from which a port runs out, however here you do not have a large enclosure, it is essentially just a 'port' or thus TL. Moving the driver up and down that TL (within limits) you can fine tune the response.
@@SoundBlab That's true but you could also build a vented enclosure with a small volume and a lets say 60 inch long port to tune it very low.
That will then rather be called a mass-loaded transmission line for example rather than a ported enclosure.
Are using a 2 way crossover for bass and mids?
Can I ask for the schematic/size, friend?
06:38 What is the music name?
Can someone tell me please
Can you do a bandpass design?,
I'm a bandpass fan
perhaps sometime in the future.
Why is the sub not at the end of the line, instead of 2/3rds where one side of the line dead ends...?
what will happen if theres no stuffing?
The stuffing is there to slow down the speed of the air, which makes the transmission line 'appear' longer to the driver. Remove it and it will affect the frequency response and bass output.
Nice build! I found a cordless brad gun at the pawn shop and I can't understand ever attempting to build a sub or any cabinet without one!
Yes, definitely one of my most used tools!
Will it work fine in a sealed box?
It will, but the bass will not extend as low as in a ported box.
I would incorporate that into a high efficiency Bluetooth boom box build.
Can you add weight to the passive radiator, because in 5 liter tuned to 30 hz you get flat responce from 30 to 80 hz.
So any speaker that's 4ohm can be used for a car 🚗 stereo then ??
If the amp is rated at 4ohm, yes.
@@SoundBlab thankyou, very much appreciated!!
You should have covered the bottom air passage with black net.
And use copper binding posts instead of a cup.
The Tang Band W4-2089 isn't available on PartsExpress (200 min buy + 4 month lead-time). Is there another smallish driver 5-6" that has similar performance that you would recommend for a similar build (scaled up for a larger driver if necessary). Seems like most of the woofers in the 6" size have a frequency response starting at around 90Hz where the TB starts at 35Hz.
You can contact Tang Band directly and ask them if they can sell to you. tb-speaker.com/
What is the low end frequency response for this setup?
Around 40Hz doen at -3db I think. Did not measure, only modelled.
SoundBlab which software do you use to model and test such enclosure designs?
@@darshitdarji3217 1:25
Victor Supreme Thanks but I could not hear that properly. Can you name it?
@@darshitdarji3217 HornResp (Horn Response) www.hornresp.net/
Please tell me box plans like
Box and port dimensions.
What program do you use to design the box? I couldn't quite hear what you said.
Hornresp
Bub do you have measurements?
This is an awesome little build. I'm familiar with T-line enclosures, but isn't the top chamber in this build redundant? It seems like the sub is installed in the middle of the line.
No - it's not redundant at all, actually, its pretty clever! Bose use a similar approach in their designs. www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/243483-improved-transmission-line-alignment.html
And before one dismisses Bose, I've yet to hear anyone worth their weight criticize Bose for their engineering th-cam.com/video/CZaRQT3Rvaw/w-d-xo.html .. actually, the engineering is pretty sound. What Bose don't do well is to then take that brilliant engineering and desecrate it using really bad, cheap drivers IMO.
I was thinking the exact same thing. What is up with that?
Interesting post on the forum! And is exactly what I have done in this design.
@@SoundBlab very cool! So that chamber is probably tunable.. hmm. Thanks for the reply. Love your channel 👌😁👍
Yes I though the same when I first saw the position of the driver!!!!
What's the difference in the sound between a transmission line and a bass reflex?
The sound of a Transmission Line (TL) is best described as 'just there'. No emphasis, really easy and tight sounding if designed right. If you're a 'bass-head' you'll probably want to pick a Bass-Reflex (BR)
@@Kleverballetje Nah man, 8th order isobaric, with all three peaks tuned to the same frequency for bass heads
@@PvMLad 😂😆
amazing bass for the size. my first DIY sub 15 years ago is a Sony 12inch, around 380wrms. It was too much and unwieldy, I'd be happy with this 4inch. 🥹
Thanks
You can make video working this sub more long?
sebas5688654 it sounds great ☺️
Reformulated question: Would it be possible to add a mini tweeter to a 2.0-channel soundbar via serial connection, turning it into a 3.0 channel soundbar to get a better sound clarity (clear and crisp dialogues)?
I would not connect it in series, but i parallel to the drivers. It will be a bit of a hit and miss exercise though.
I didn’t quite hear the program you use to model the transmission line speaker “on resp”?? Will you talk more on that?
I think he mean HORNRESP
I think I might do a video on that soon. It's called Hornresp.
@@roygriend5143 Thanks! Couldn't make it out and youtube captions it "horny or ESP"...
Hi a suggestion, cover the reflex bass hole with a mesh.
Amplifier clipping?
Name of the song Please!!!!!!!
@SoundLab
The lines are arranged in a weird way. One line is leading to the dead end where the driver should be. Am I mistaken?
Igor Tarassenko that’s for that the driver can create more pressure i think
Moving the driver up or down the line (within certain limits) will affect the frequency response and in certain cases reduce the required line length for a more optimal response.
for that material you put inside the sub can i use my leftover single socks. rip them up and stuff or is that a bad idea?
Ofcoures you can,recycle them..
Ofcoures you can,recycle them..
6:58 im in love.
Cool 😎 subwoofer and sound
Thanks! 😃
You'are welcome
Great video, i really enjoyed this!
Dankie 😊
Good work Man. From BRAZIL
Tx
Love this channel. So interesting watching a craftsman about his work. Subscribed. 👍
Thanks
@@SoundBlab what will happen if u put a bass radiator in front of the bass port
Is this a constant CSA using Sd, 0.75Sd or ~ 1.5Sd maybe? and a line length of 75”-80” to f3 @40hz? Im looking for a last minute xmas solution as my other plan got foiled at the last moment ...
It's just a straight line where the mouth of the line is equal to the Sd of the driver. F3 should be around that, yes. I have the SketchUp drawing on my Patreon page.
what are the measurements or dimensions?
Is the inner cable also glue?
Nice design!
Thanks!
@@SoundBlab I was going to say: 'Put it in your car and see how it performs.' Its a little monster of a thing.
What are the measures of the box ?
Silly question perhaps, but why not make the holes before assembly?
Not silly at all! I have actually changed the original design you've seen here so that it can be built without the need to router the square hole in the baffle. You can then just assemble all the panels and drop the driver in place.
onde comprar um desse
you did not get a maze, as the first spacer inside the case is useless - it does not isolate the space behind the speaker. It was necessary to do the struts obliquely.
In many t-lines the speaker is placed at an interval away from the start. Many are also heavily tapered. It's about resonance and standing waves. Think of a flute, the mouthpiece is places about 1/3 away from the top, but the entire chamber is still used for resonance.
What dimensions are used in the project ? 🇧🇷🇧🇷
What kind of nail gun did you use?
It is a 18gauge brad nailer. Not sure of the brand, but there are many options around.
This looks great! Whats the f3 of this sub and how does the driver generally perform? I'm currently planning a build using this driver so I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks. The driver does well in this enclosure, and can handle quite a bit of power. It really moves a lot of air. I have not yet measured the F3, but modelled should be in the range of 35Hz or 40Hz. Perhaps I'll do a follow up video in the new year where I can do this and show some more stats.
Please, give me dimensions of these project. Thank You!
Bass is awesome 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Box length breth height how much
Small but sounds like a big sub. I like the sound quality of the bass.
blocking air hole with this fiber foam is a mistake. try passive radiator or just free up the air way to make bass more punchy at low end.
That is not entirely true tho... Transmission line enclosures rely heavily on stuffing to absorb the 'higher' frenquencies. An unstuffed transmission line sounds quite rubbish tbh. Very undefined and unbalanced. I've tinkered quite a lot with these types of enclosures, and this is what I was able to conclude.
Is that hooked up to your computer if it is how?
With an external sound card that leads to a small plate amp that I did nit feature in the build.
How can I determine the enclosure size for a 4" generic woofer?
Depends on the enclosure type, sealed, ported, etc. and without the driver specs it is not really possible and be sure to get good results.
use winisd
@@SoundBlab thanks for the reply btw I meant how can I calc. thiele n small's parameters ... like using only pc ( as a freq. gen ) and a multimeter? xD
@@coffeebeatsofficial1349 you can use the Dayton Audio Test System (DATS v3) for that.
Yes, the DATS from Parts Express is perfect for determining TS parameters, and WinISD for enclosure size.
What is the program you use to calculate the box?
Hornresp
I disagree with that stuffing. But you gotta respect any man with more than 3 routers.
Sew your nails for a tougher box. Don't go in at 90 degrees 1st nail angle left second nail angle right repeat.
You should offer these so people could buy them, what was the last song called in the demo?
Hi, you sound South African, if you are where are you based and do you perhaps sell what yoh make?
I am from Cape Town, but I only sell build pans, not the speakers themselves.
song title?
im gonna test my speaker
Wats the purpose of that top air tunnel it's a dead end
The tunnel right behind the driver is a "dead" end, but the other tunnel moves the air downwards and out the front.
The question is, why did he stuff the air port full of fluff
What website calculator did you use for t line? How do you compare it to Bose bass? Since they use small subs also, prooving small can be sufficient. Nice craftsmanship!!
I used Hornresp. I have not heard any Bose products before so can't comment. Thanks!
what is the title of the music you pack at the end of your video