Cheapest Lithium Challenge: FEENCE 100ah Teardown
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- What's the cheapest good battery on Amazon? In this series we do just that search. We don't think batteries have to be expensive to be great.Today Clark reviews a LiFePo4 battery called the FEENCE 100Ah.
IN THIS VIDEO
[00:00] Intro
[00:26] Why this Series?
[06:07] Disassembly
[07:35] Contents
[13:21] Charging
[16:30] High-Current Test
[21:10] Discharging
[22:32] Final Thoughts
[28:10] What do you think?
THE BATTERY LEADERBOARD: Take a look at this link. It leads to a table of all the batteries we have reviewed, looking for that diamond in the rough. We'll keep adding to it.
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Link to this battery: www.amazon.com/FEENCE-LiFePO4...
If you're interested in learning more about the BankManager™, the best place to go is here:www.emilyandclarksadventure.com
Here is a link to a lot of the items we use aboard Temptress for power. You'll find links to things like the Voltage-Sensitive Relay: amzn.to/3OJJHay
Have questions or comments? Leave them below! We do our best to read and answer all comments on our channel.
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LINKS TO PRODUCTS WE LOVE (Affiliate links to things we actually own, use, and recommend. We are almost never paid by companies to endorse products. If we are, we will tell you in the video): www.amazon.com/shop/emilyclar...
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I always have great respect for someone who can honesty say “I was wrong”.
What makes your videos much more entertaining is the constraints you work with as far as available space in your vessel/home. Most of us can only dream of doing the things you do in full size garages🤭. Great reviews and kudos to you for being knowledgeable yet humble. Thank you guys!👍
So nice of you to say.
Yes doing these things on the boat poses challenges
They almost had me until I saw the $40 delivery fee.
Just a tip for you, Fresh water Rinse layup and Emergency Bilge Pump.
On Starlight 1989 Beneteau Oceanis 350 has a Volvo Penta engine M2003 28hp anyway I was the second owner, so after I purchased the boat I was doing the shakedown cruise and ran the engine for about an hour and the overheated alarm went off , could not find a problem, cutting too the chase lots of growth and calcification of the tubes in the heat exchanger. Had too take the entire unit clean it and put it back, never wanted to do that again figured was not the use rather the extended, layup with saltwater, also the corrosion factor of the elbow, had to replace that. So as a solution I cam up with this manifold I constructed with brass and bronze fittings and ball valves for each connection, from the thru hull , to the manifold, ball on the thru hull and on the manifold did the same at the on end valve to the sea strainer to the engine, next thru hull, pressure fresh water, and at the other end again valve to a run to the bilge.
This allows me to turn on the fresh water, backwash the thru hull, then shutoff and run the engine for 2 minutes on fresh water before shutting down the engine for the night or an extended time. It also in the final configuration allows me to bring to bear as an emergency pump, on my main bilge the engine, if there is a major leak in the boat that bilge pumps cannot handle for whatever reason, (lightning strikes) etc. I often use the fresh water system when sh3 is on the hard, and I need to run the engine, like changing oil, etc. I have 100 gallons of water on Starlight, you should see the looks I get in the yard with no hose, on the hard, yet engine running and water from the exhaust and prop shaft running out. In 20 years have not had any overheating issues or had to deal with the heat exchanger or the elbow, which is notorious on Volvos..
Thanks for another review, just the right level of technicality for us non Electrical Engineers.
Brother, you look like you are suffering from heat exhaustion and just plowing through the video like a man!! Well done and thanks!!
It's so hot here
@@EmilyAndClark This time of year is just unbearable anywhere S of Miami. I hope you got your AC back up and running.
Great info and testing....well done.
Great info, looking forward to this series
This is a suggestion that is kind of personal for me. Use "inexpensive" rather than "cheap". Cheap has negative connotations. Just a thought. 🙂
Another amazing video! Thank you! Idea: if you could put a form factor with the dimensions specs like if it’s a group 31 size etc. you covered the specifics great!
Great video. I'll be watching this whole series.
New one coming out Saturday
Great video Clark! Thank you for all your hard work researching the batteries and creating these videos.
You're welcome
Great education - thankyou Clark!
Your welcome
very interesting and informative thanks
You're very welcome David
Another great vid! Thanks!
You're welcome
Thank you for doing a review on this battery 😊 I just bought one for my workshop on equipment that runs high power for a short time for what I need it for 👊🏾it runs Led light for days,just enough for the time I spend in my shed
Love these battery teardowns you are doing, great to watch and learn from. I am planning to follow your advice and add some LiFePO batteries alongside a smaller amount of Lead Acid, managed by your BBMS, at the end of the season. The challenge I have is finding suitable batteries that will fit into the battery spaces which are designed for Exide ES1350 sized lead acids, but I am working on that. One area I am interested in is looking at batteries have advanced BMS and can be monitored someway (like to know what is going on), and possible have a cell balancing feature. Are these worth the extra, do they add value etc. Any insights into this would be very useful.
Keep up the excellent work, and have a cold beer from time to time.
I have small batteries and fancy batteries on the way here
As for monitoring and even balancing. I'm not convinced it's important but I'll reevaluate as time goes on.
I have big raw cells coming. I'll build a battery myself to also review. That approach will be minimal in size.
I'm trying to learn more stuff about setting up batteries and solar, and stumbling across your videos has been amazing, especially this series on budget batteries, because I'm about to start setting up a small off grid cabin, and want to put in solar and batteries, and I'd have no idea what would make a good battery without watching your videos, the content is amazing
Thank you
Useful series for me. We will see how July goes. I have less solar power than on the little boat (so far) but the alternator is more powerful too. The inverter is less than 1000 watts (I think 300)... so freezer, nav, lights and phones/computer. Small trips which are likely to begin and end with engine. I think we will do fine... but a second (or third) house battery would be nice. PNW so I am thinking to go hard dodger with solar on top (or used as roof). This has worked well on the old boat.
Thanks for another very helpful video.
I live on my Tayna 37 PH in Marina del Rey Ca. At 77 yo my ocean crossing days are behind me but I still enjoy weekends at Catalina and occasional trips up to the Channel Islands.
For these mini-adventures I want my microwave and TV to be powered. Cheap Lithium seems like the answer to this requirement.
Thanks so much for your excellent videos.
You're welcome.
Don't forget the BankManager with that Li.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
I use a thermal imager for a couple of years now for electronic repairs. There is one problem, it can not see the difference between shiny metal and hot surfaces. A trick I use is to tape black tape over shiny parts or use a sharpy to make things black. The problem is that the imager has often an auto scale thermal resolution. It shows the hottest part as white, the coldest as blue. If everything is matt black and about the same temp , you see things that are a fraction of a degree hotter because they will be yellow/white. Giving an insane resolution. I can see a circuit waking up, ICs or even the first traces that carry current are visible until something gets real hot fast (or shiny things) , then all the rest will show blue. But if there are shiny surfaces it makes them max hot (white) and then you can only see rather big thermal differences. I use a Seek Shotpro SQ-AAA but Flir is a good choise
I got mine but the seller sent the wrong one. So frustrating. I have a usb-c phone and a micro flir
Also I'm in the DR where one can't send anything back for less then $100
Thanks for the great videos and honest review Clark. I'm wondering what's your thoughts about comparing these 'cheap' batteries against a more expensive brand, like BattleBorn, Dakota or others? I appreciate you don't want to extend too much your reviews (this will end up costing quite a bit of $$$), but it would be interesting to compare the data of these cheaper ones against more recognized brand. I'm closely keeping notes of your reviews as I'm planning to hook up the Bank Manager to my new battery bank. BTW, I just looked a review of the Timeusb another LiFePO4 battery seems interesting. 🤓
I do get the batteries free from the manufacturers.
If you wrote Dakota or others suggesting they should send me a free battery I'd certainly talk with them.
Sometimes more expensive is worth it and for some the money isn't that big of a deal
Hey king stay strong out there !
You did it again! Did you really think you could sneak that watch by us after saying not to wear one? I think you are grounded until the next battery video… 🤣.
Thnx mate, i saw it on amazon and checkd youtube for review. Good job man! ❤ i think i could better trust myself with a diy battery.
Did you look at my "leaderboard" in the description? There are better batteries. The Elefast is quite cheap now and really nice.
Thanks I remember a couple years ago when I was looking into getting mine everybody was playing it safe and just recommending battleborns @ $1200
Wonderful! I suspect this would make a great trolling motor battery for a small fishing boat.
Yes they don't draw more then 50 amps
And it's cheap. I'd buy it for that job
Hi! Please make a video from which we can understand why some boats have 12V and others 24V or 36V or 48V. Which one is better and why? Thank you!
Maybe add volume per Ah to the spreadsheet since the batteries often have dead space inside and that data could be useful for someone trying to get the most amount of battery in limited space.
Good idea
I hope that causes the manufacturers to start using minimal case sizes.
wrist watch when you checking the cell voltages otherwise a great and informative video
Great video, well explained. Can lithium be charged in cold climate during winter when boat is on the hard, ambient temp 30F but batteries may be colder?
Batteries must be above 32f for charging without damag
A most excellent video Clarke.
This is looking like a really good starter battery for me. The best I can find it for on a quick search is $429 🇨🇦. Still one of the lowest prices locally.
If I were to build a split source power bank, what do you think would the best Li to Pb balance be? I currently have 4 semi-truck batteries that are likely going to be the foundation of my system. Also, any advantage for 12/24/48 volt systems? At the outset, I think 12v may be sufficient. Probably on 2-3000 watt draws to start. Eventually(maybe a year or so) I’d like to build to a 10K draw capability. For now I have a couple of generators to handle the bigger loads.
The lead size question is hard to answer. It has so much to do with your components and how you use it.
In short you need enough lead to keep your charge controllers sane. Some put out noisey power that needs lead to tame it.
Voltage. Higher voltage is cheaper but it's easier to find appliances at 12v.
If this isn't going into something with an engine I'd use 24v as a low end personally.
48 is great but I'd use a battery balancer if you are using 12v batteries in series
They are cheap. Look at my Duffy video and the Amazon store link in the description.
@@EmilyAndClark Thank you so much Clarke. More convo to come 😉
Awesome vid. Do you think they could have cut the size/dimensions with less spray foam on each end?
Certainly and I'm giving preference to manufacturers who do just that in the future. I think that is an important quality and will be doing my part to reinforce that idea with the producers.
It's nice to have their ear.
@@EmilyAndClark I'm an RVer and am about to pull the trigger on a Redodo 200 ah based on your vids. I'm a marine engineer by degree, but have been out of the loop on electrical so to speak. TY for the info and for advocating for your audience.
Another Good Review! Clark, if you have the "ears" of a battery manufacturer do you think you could influence them? One of the things that I think should change is the size. They use the "standard" sizes of older batteries, when I think they should be making them smaller and more compact. There are probably a few other things that could be improved, but that is the first one that comes to mind.
Yes that bothers me as well. We have talked about that and I've talked about it with other manufacturers. I have two small case batteries coming.
Not cheap - I just purchased 2-206 ah marinized SOK's and they used the full interior of the cases (fit in the space I had). Removable top (which had the seal "bubbled" out) but compact for the power density. The intended location is outside, under a vehicle - hence the plastic case - tested out and delivered 216 ah.
I've never touched one but I like their cases the best.
Maybe they would send me one sometime.
Clark, do you have any recommendations (advice) about replacing SLA batteries in a UPS with LiFe Po batteries (using Cyberpower 1350AVR and a couple of old TrippLites). From watching your videos I feel you know your stuff..Thanks (LOL just heard your Seattle reference)
Of course I'm biased but, BankManager!
Great job Clark. Really appreciate this. Love the leader board. Big help. I will be converting my Diesel motor home to lithium in the near future. Currently have 5 yr old T- 105 X 4. Will probably replace with 300 amps of lithium. Should easily out preform them plus charge so much better. My current inverter charger very inadequate anyway so will replace with something like a Victron unit. Plus MPPT solar monitor. Again thanks. Need to look at your unit too. Will this replace a DC/DC for my 160 amp alternator? How does this fit into the equation.
Yes likely no dc-dc needed. You can keep your current charge controllers if they work for you now and it will charge your Li safer than anything else.
@@EmilyAndClark Currently dont have solar controller nor battery monitor. I am a former cruiser on my KP 44 for 25 yrs. We didn’t have all this Tech. Lived “off grid for decades.
Yes me either. That's why I built it.
I've had Temptress for 32 years.
Hi, nice video about cheap lithium batteries.
Some remark about the bms. In general the current is swithed on and off by mosfets, not transistors, the difference between the two: a transistor is a current controlled device, the current flowing into the base of the transistor controls the current flowing into the collector.
A Mosfet is a voltage controlled device. The voltage applied across the gate controls how much current flows into the drain.
In the On-state of a mosfet the resistance is very low witch makes is ideal for high currents. With a transistor this is not achievable.
Keep up the good work 👍🙂
MOSFETs. You mean "metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor".
That's what I'm referring to as transistors. You might see why.
Maybe test temp with cover on ?
Can you please add column of kw-h per kg and kw-h per liter of volume? It's interesting to compare practical power density for the batteries.
What do you think of Dakota Batteries, looking for an 8D, going to start my refit end of the season in September getting your Battery Manager are you coming out with a newer version by the end of the year or same etc. Bravo Zulu again.. Happy Father’s Day..
I haven't even started on the 3.0 BankManager. It's at least a year out I expect.
I've seen videos from the Dakota guy
Seems like he would put out good stuff. He's a cruiser. If you make a contact, suggest they send me one. :)
These are REALLY good! .. Would you also consider making one for a "make your own from cells plus BMS" option?
I guess I could
I have a home made portable I put together years ago. It's been really handy to have.
@@EmilyAndClark if you google "gwl eu winston sets" (can't link because youtube removes it). Those are high quality cells and BMS (can control 2 separate charge/discharge contactors etc). I am considering installing a 200Ah 12V set of those in my boat.
Kinda expensive but I bet they are great
I just bought this battery and it was $208 and I love it all I run Isa small 12v cooler type refrigerator/freezer and my 12v 40w parking diesel heater I do plan on buying another battery. I do have a question thought...if you can't afford the bank manager does a regular battery charger charge a battery safely?
A regular charger would be safe for you. No fire or anything. But not safe for the batteries, don't expect 4000 cycles.
I understand, I don't think I could justify spending more on the battery manager than the battery cost. Sometimes it's better to just accept the short life and buy another battery once the first one does.
Awesome
For your consideration: I saw your access point in your tool room, and you might consider antenna adjustments to where they are in different dimensional planes. I get the use of signal differentials, but to have one antenna "yelling" into another in the same plane and whose job is to further amplify what it hears just doesn't seem logical. Also, signal differentials would be enhanced, having received different signals from different planes. Granted, your plane of interest is effectively just one plane, so I would put the antennas 180° (+/-) in the vertical to minimize the side-by-side "yelling" being so close to each other.
No room for that attached to the ceiling.
I get it. But it works phenomenally as it is.
If we get to a dodgy place it will get an external cell antenna raised up.
Thanks
Hope you won't mind entertaining a question about mixing lithium with lead acid, especially one which is probably a stupid question. I wonder if it is possible to keep the charging sources connected to the lead acid but put the distribution on the lithium side? I realize that the lead would be unable to provide power when the lithium gets low, but I'm wondering if that might protect electronics from power surges. I realize that wouldn't protect against lightning because of the intensity and unpredictability of lightning strikes, but perhaps it could help by keeping the solar panels, engine, driveshaft etc. separate from the appliances and instruments? I realize that most surge protectors are useless against lightning but if the distribution panel is kept separate from the charge sources it might help. Please feel free to destroy my ignorance. Thanks
I don't think "surges" from a well operating charge controller ate an issue. For lightning there are some things you can do to lower the chances of being hit. I have a video on that.
Also assuming you use large wire where the actual charge and discharge wires attach makes little difference. It's all connected.
In the BankManager setup, www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms, you connect everything to your lead bank and add the LiFePO4 in parallel with the BankManager's contactor in the positive side connecting wire.
For a budget challenge and run I’m trying to do a powered kayak build- would this be a safe and good battery to be part of this project? Would solely run a trolling motor (HP 272)
Thanks in advance man great video. Great to see all the reviews since this was released
Yes I think this is safe up to say, 50 amps at power supply. That's way more than you would likely need for any motor on a kayak.
Looks like a rebrand . If its like the ones ive been using. I'm currently using 8 Lisuateli 12v 100ah from Amazon. They are great for the price
Likely. Strangely these are from the actual manufacturer. For years they have sold unlabeled batteries to others. They just started selling them directly.
GOOD JOB
Thanks Dennis.
You should review the Elfhub 100ah 12v battery I have several both white and black and the black seem to be more powerful then the black but I have a feeling I'm getting ripped off on the white ones. They have a min. Capacity listed at 95Ah in the manual which doesn't seem right if it's supposed to be 100ah. Love the videos..please keep making them..
Thanks.
We don't chase battery companies. They come to us and very often after someone like you suggests our channel to them.
Hint...
@EmilyAndClark I think it's by the same manufacturer as the previous elefast the pupmvhvb, and the feence. At least they all have the same yellow and blue front page manuals...I bought several of the white batteries before I realized the black ones where better...
Thanks for your video. I intend to use a lithium battery for my MinnKota trolling motor with about 50lb thrust instead if the lead acid battery,, Is this battery a good choice for my application? I dont see reviews of anyone using for that purpose. Thx.
That very battery from the review is now living its life pushing a 36lb thrust dinghy electric outboard. The new owner added a solar panel and seems happy.
50lbs is probably about the top end of current draw I'd be comfortable with from this battery (as per comments in the review). But likely you won't crouse at full. That's more emergency power, right?
Thank you
I would love to see a review on the Fiunie brand 100ah battery.
From my side that starts with them offering a battery for review.
From their side that often starts with a potential buyer like you suggesting our channel.
Please tell us what is the device with two knobs hot and cold? If it is a water heater please make a video with!
It's an on demand propane water heater.
I've used one on Temptress for over 30 years. It's GREAT.
Hey Clark, what time is it on your metal watch after taking it off the first part of the video? Lol, careful
Thanks for the video, Clark. The voltage sag at 100amp draw seemed excessive, but like you say," Good for the money"
Does it have low temp cutoff? im above the 44th parallel, and suoer important here in winter.
Hey Clark, you should use a 5000btu A/C unit as your load, brother, you look like youre ready to FALLOUT!
No it doesn't. Next one from that company will.
I talked about alternatives in the Redodo video.
You know you are right
The tool room opens into the aft cabin . That's where my ac is.
Too hot to think straight
Yeah warning the batteries with their own power, is a tough pill to swallow...
Lots of insulation. Lots
But yes I know. I still have trouble using the microwave. Heat from batteries is just wrong.
One thing I'm curious about and haven't yet found an answer in my reading is if you wire 4 in series to get 48v, will the 1C rate of 100 still apply or does it give the same benefit as in parallel that the batteries "share" the load so each has a .25C draw? Would that buss bar be more of a concern in a 48v series setup and you were pulling a load with an electric motor in excess of 100 amps? How would the 4 BMS on each battery react?
Amps stay the same when you use batteries in series. But since the voltage goes up the wattage also goes up.
So 4 of these would have the same issue at 100a. But 100a at 12v is 1200watys but 100a at 48v is 4800watts.
If you only needed 1200watts and we're in 48v serial you would only need to draw 25a
BUT, that's 25a per battery
25a per the whole bank. Amps go through the whole circuit.
So 25a per battery is 25a per bank at 4. 48v is 1200w
If you connect these batteries in series, if one BMS cuts the circuit in case of over voltage, the full Voltage of all batteries added up will be applied to that BMS. Therefore only connect Li batteries in series if the manufacturer has rated them for that.
Hi there. Love your channel. Have you done anything about powering your laptop with 12v not an inverter? I couldn't see anything. My new laptop output is19v dc, 7.89A, 150W.
Yes that's really easy to do. I'll do a video on it sometime.
Loads of savings to be had there.
@@EmilyAndClark It would be helpful to many cruisers. I can find "car chargers" for 100W and under but this brute is 150W. Thanks in advance :)
It's looking like I might do that for next Saturday.
I just gathered all the parts to run our primary video editing machine off a boost converter.
I've been planning to do this but we are so power rich we have just run our 3kw inverter all day.
I wasn't thinking of doing a video on it but I think you convinced me.
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks so much! My concern is the 150W draw. Are there any concerns about killing the laptop to be mindful of? What guage wire, how to make power cord, and find correct computer input plug. Hope that makes sense. I suppose the DC boost converters come in different sizes. too. Looking forward to the video. Then we can hunt down materials and go for it :) Much more efficient than a 300W inverter. Have a wonderful day!
Won't be doing the video this week
My biggest boost converter on the boat is only 8 amps. Not enough for our 240w laptop.
I have ordered bigger boost converters but with shipping to the DR they won't be here for quite some time.
Why would it allow the cell voltage to get down to 2.2v? That's way too low for LifePo4. Eek.
Hi I live in Australia when will battery manage going to become available to us
I sell loads of them to Australia. You just have to use something like reship.com.
Hi Clarke. I am in the process of installing lithium batteries. At the moment the anchor winch is connected to both the house batteries and the starter battery.
If I leave it connected like this will there be any issues with the battery banks ?
Are you using a BankManager?
Meaning will there be house lead?
No I’m not using the bank manager.
The lithium has its own solar and the starter batteries have there own solar. 2 independent systems
Ok. Then you really have to be concerned with peak amp draw from your thruster and that the li can supply. From a bow thruster point of view that's the main thing.
I also suggest you read Conrad's article linked to the bottom of this page.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
The BankManager approach can protect your new li from low current overcharge.
Personally I'd keep a bit of thin plate lead to deal with things like thrusters.
Best 'unboxing' takes some worry out!
Do you think you could safely mix batter manufacture types ?
Popular wisdom is don't mix manufacturer or age. There are good reasons for this.
If two manufacturers used the same cells and BMS you should be fine.
I haven't run the test yet but I feel strongly that a second bank of LiFePO4 controlled with a second BankManager could be of any age and any manufacturer/type and would operate well connected as each would be controlled by its own BankManager.
But multiple BankManagers can get expensive.
I actually have 2 of the Zooms (Redodo) and 3 Chins, all 100AH connected in parallel. Will Prowse did tear downs on both and determined they were clones. No issues so far after a year of cycling.
Could also include the metric measurements? I don't care much about measuring things in feet, elbows or any other body parts.
You have Google.
There are two kinds of cultures. Those who use the metric system and those who have gone to the moon.
Who is the manufacture of the battery? I would like to see what other batteries you mentioned they make for different companies.
They don't want to compete with their customer companies. They asked me not to tell.
But if it looks identical it probably is
Cool
Not the best battery I've tested.
Once again a tour de force of analysis.
So nice of you to say
Aren't the cells going to end up imbalanced over time because of the differential resistance between the current paths for different cells?
The groups of cells are always in parallel so they should "re balance" on their own.
@@EmilyAndClark Yes, but the differential cycling of the cells in the group will cause them to age differently. And differential aging will increase the differential cycling.
The correct way to connect cell groups is from opposite corners, so that the total path resistance is the same through each cell.
Yep
How do you say the "bank manager" didn't overcharge when one cell clearly was at 3.7 volts?
Look again. That test was with the bench power supply charging to BMS cut-off. After a full charge by the BankManager.
@@EmilyAndClark my bad, the bank manager charged to around 98 percent and stopped before the bms did its overvoltage alarm!
I know it says Lithium iron battery on the label but are we sure ? I can not find any 20ah cells that say Lithium iron. The ones I can find say
Lithium ion, which is not as safe. I could be wrong but would like to know more about those cells. Thank you
I'm quite sure these are Lifepo4. The li-ion cells operate at a slightly different voltage and in testing this acted like Lifepo4. Also I've developed a good relationship with the manufacturer, I don't think they would lie about that.
That said this is not my favorite battery. As I show in the "leaderboard" linked to the description a little more money will get you a much nicer battery.
But if it meets your needs, it is cheap.
Great content as always, but only an American would think Starbucks make the best coffee😜
I'm being sarcastic. I use them a lot as an example of pointless spending.
th-cam.com/video/9XK5ocXPhTg/w-d-xo.html
Back in the 90s I designed a point of sale system for them.
I didn't drink coffee at the time but still had to go through Batista training.
Terrible corporate culture. If never invest even though they sell legal drugs.
I'd rather have the standard 3.2v cells in a battery (if I were reviewing batteries) that way when you tear them apart you can use all the cells (and buy a bunch of bms's) and build yourself a massive battery bank at the end of the series 😉
Yes. Temptress will be getting a big bank!
I ended up selling the Redodo to a friend. I liked it a lot but he really needed the battery.
@@EmilyAndClark that was nice of you 😁
The Lithium for standard batteries for scooters wheelchairs can be expensive. I would purchase lithium, but two issues, 1 I worry about fires, 2 A set runs about $1,100.00. I know the lithium will last 10 to 12 years, but the expense is big issue. DAKODA BATTER good , but pricy
Low worry of fire with Lifepo4. Li-ion is the scary stuff
Way cheaper LiFePO4 out there. As shown in these videos.
Where do you find the bluetooth app?
For this battery you don't. I doesn't have Bluetooth
I'm using one in my bass car and it's running like 200 amps through it, and it's keeping everything going pretty well, cranked the system to draw like 250amps and everything shut off so.... wouldn't go past 200 💀
Yes as I suggest it's not the greatest battery. And only rated for 200a actual draw.
I'm reviewing a battery soon that comes in a transparent case, easy to open so you could add LEDs. I think you car stereo guys might like it.
Can we use Lithium batteries in a car instead of Lead Acid battery..?
No. They aren't good at the huge load of starting your engine and have different charge requirements.
With this www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
You can add Li to your lead if you need more power.
@@EmilyAndClark 👍👍
👍!!!
Thanks
I will eventually store my boat in high latitudes meaning the external temperature will go below -30 C with no possibility to heat the battery bank
The only LFP batteries I found with a acceptable storage temperature at -45 C is the Victron's, but they are the most expensive ones on the market.
Could you in the future publish the minimum storage temp for the batteries you test: the manufacturers do not like to publish that spec as it may be a deterrent for future buyer.
Sure.
And I have a battery coming with low temp shutdowns that doesn't cost a mint.
I really don't think it has anything to do with the manufacturer. It's about the Lifepo4 chemistry.
So you can just Google LiFePO4 storage temperature. If it's a good source it's applicable. If a manufacturer says differently they are more likely to be stretching the truth for sales.
I just found the LITime batteries . They published a spec at -50C for storage temp. Can you test that battery soon. Thanks
Error sorry ! they say it is -10C to ~50 C. I took the tidle for a minus. Zut !
Less than 30 days: -20℃ to 60℃
Between 30 and 90 days: -10℃ to 35℃
More than 90 days: 15℃ to 35 ℃
Oct 20, 2022
ecotreelithium.co.uk › news
How to Store LiFePO4 Batteries - Eco Tree Lithium
I'd go with this.
The times likely have to do with the natural self discharge. It's slow for LiFePO4 and in the cold.
Starbucks Jeez!! Peace OUT!!!!
My only suggestion for improvement is "more cowbell."
Always more cowbell
Will it eventually balance out?
It should but I have since found that many of these cheap BMSs just don't balance well
Sounds like you will eventually have enough batteries to install a mini-split and refrigerate the entire boat. :)
I kept two of my compressors. A 10k unit will go into the main saloon.
Dinner guests on Panama will get a treat
15:32 Clark, you put your watch back on 😂
Yep. I actually left it off for days so I wouldn't forget but got sick of not knowing the time. Then forgot.
You should test these by runnning your AC for extended periods 🤣
The AC doesn't use much power.
But someone pointed out. The AC is in the aft cabin
I could have turned it on when I did the 100a test in the heat and been comfortable.
Well I had also forgotten my watch again then
Heat effects ones brain
why is there such a big difference in quality between Feence and Elefast when they are both made by Feence and only have a $56 price difference
They try to sell batteries. There seems to be a market for the cheapest. And a market for quality.
As the price of cells went down the difference between the two costs shrunk as well.
Good enough is the enemy of perfection.
But for some perfection is the enemy of done (or obtainable)
Hi Clark, Great video as usual. Three quick comments.
First, the skinny bus bars scared me as well. I think part of the reason they didn't get overly hot is that the battery cells on each end are acting as a heat sink, which over time might affect their service life. You are correct, of course, that we aren't likely to be pulling that much current from them for long periods, so perhaps that issue is minimal in practice. But heat in general isn't good, if only for the mechanical stress that it imparts during cycling.
Second, the $278 cost of the battery on Amazon doesn't include shipping, which is $30 here in the US. Most of the 100AH 12v LiFe PO4 batteries in this class seem to have about the same net cost, when shipping is included.
Related, LiTime is one brand that seems slightly higher in net cost, but they also claim to do a better job at using balanced cells, at least according to my discussions with them. That cell imbalance you observed concerns me. We don't know if it's simply an initial imbalance, which will be taken care of by the BMS over time, or if it's inherent in the cells themselves. If the later, the claimed cycle life of the battery might be significantly lower. By way of background, I have a small off-grid solar system here at home, where I offset some of the base load (PC, internet router, etc) with a solar / battery combo that is supported by a 13v power supply during the night because the 24hr load is more than the solar can support. I was concerned that if I didn't get the battery fully charged during the day (to start the cell balance process), the battery might fail early due to imbalance. LiTime said not to worry, as their cells are selected for balance during manufacture. I'm not advocating LiTime specifically, just looking at the cell balance topic as a potential quality criteria. I wonder how significant that is (vs just marketing).
Keep up the good work!
Thanks. I agree with all your points.
I wish I had made more of a deal about the bus bars. They were of course responsible for the low voltage in the 100a test.
This test procedure kicked my butt
It was so hot and this was the first video I've done alone. I also changed my test procedure and the process took 6 days without time for introspection.
I hope to do better in the future.
I'll likely put notes on the leader board
Price is currently $145.99
Yep crazy cheap
You mention a couple of times drawing 100 Amps for 1 hour on a 100 AH battery. Not so. Battery capacity is rated at a fraction of the AH rating, typically 0.1C discharge rate. So to get 100 AH you would discharge them at a 10 Amp rate for 10 hours. This discharge C rating will vary by mfr, but I'll guarantee that you won't get 1 hour while drawing 100 Amps.
That was definitely true in the past and still is for lead acid batteries where the capacity was usually determined for 20 hr discharge. But Li batteries are typically able to deliver nearly the full rated capacity even at 1C discharge.
Of course that is only true at high enough temperatures.
Yep
@@martinbruckner2109 Thanks for the clarification. I stand corrected.
Starbucks the best ?!
Your money.. your choice.
Clark, if you are going to actually continue to rate batteries- you need to address safety. lithium batteries need a whole different level of safety controls in place due to the risk of fire and the damage the failure of the batteries will do to the boats- catastrophic. I love your channel but you should really not be reviewing batteries.
I think you may be confusing li-ion with LiFePO4.
I won't have big li-ion aboard my boat
@@EmilyAndClark Any Lithium based battery is extremely dangerous if not managed correctly, including LiFePO4. I have literally blown up everything in testing and there are no "safe" chemistries. it all starts with heat management and the design of cells, quality of manufacture of the cells. happy to help you understand but your comments will guide peoples purchases and you are not really in the place to take on that responsibility.