I have two 100Ah Redodo batteries for my box, I had a small issue with one, and their customer service was amazing. I had a few hiccups in the beginning, but it was my fault not theirs. like always amazing review.
Hi Clark, i love your reviews, thank you for doing them. What I am curious to know about this specific model is, if the internal BMS would shut down at zero degrees Celsius and protect it to get destroyed when frozen.
You dont know how cool I find these setups.I am electrician,and dont take many statements from people about batteries like....be careful,they explode and all these things you might hear a lot too.Some might even think you put your life at risk....But you really know what you are doing.Super useful and something normal folks really should NOT try thenmselves. : ) Its definitely cheaper to replace one with warranty than to put in stronger wiring right away for all.Who uses the BP to the fullest? Almost never ever.
@@Clarks-Adventure Sad though that considering the price point they didn't do a better job at ferreting out the weak cell and put in wiring too close to the cusp of the batteries capacity. Perhaps you did get a lemon assembled by someone who ran out of the correct sized cables along with premium cells and made due with what they had on hand to keep the production line moving. Have you gotten any feedback from Redodo on your findings that you can repeat here? Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 Sorry to be a pain but it's "make do", not "make due". Public information announcement / endless battle against grammatical mistakes. It's a thankless task.
@@greenaum I see that the historical variant that was acceptable when I went to school is no longer viewed as acceptable by some today. Make due goes to the sense of making appropriate or sufficient which is correct in matching my intent however grammar checkers today recommend using do instead since some may incorrectly view using due as an error. Best!
Another great review for the series. Sometimes the manufacturers are trying to hit an industry size standard. Not necessarily in every situation though. I also thought that the internal wiring was under sized. Trying to save money I guess. Good advice on the 2 battery minimum. Thanks. Now I guess I’ll suffer through another Emily and Clark episode to help out the algorithm. I’ve no problem doing that to help a friend. Cheers 🍻
In the case of RV mounting, I have not seen any examples of good battery securing. My 5W RV comes with a plastic molded well for 2x group 24 or 27 LA batteries. However, working out of our RV I am considering the LiTime 560 AH steel case battery w/cold temp protection. Our fifth wheel front compartment stays above 45 deg F, but I still feel more comfortable with cold protection in case we run out of propane, have a family emergency, etc. but at 133 pounds, this 560 AH battery is Heavy. I thought about screwing down a 1" thick plywood (over the original battery well), then 2x4's laying down around the base screwed to hold HD straps so they battery does not launch itself to the moon during a potential panic stop. My wife works out of our RV running her computers all day. We have 740 watts of solar on our roof and two small banks on the ground with a total of 1,440 watts from a total of three MPPT charge controllers. We are off-grid while working in the summer. The other option might be a metal battery box like I did with our two formal 100 AH BB batteries , but at 9,000' ASL cooling isn't as much of an issue and the AZ desert in winter isn't a big concern either, we try to chase 79 deg F. Anyway, I will keep researching. Your video of the 200 AH Redodo is an option also, 2 or 3 will be needed in parallel. I need to compare Redodo & LiTime. I am good with replacing them every 10 years or should I say repurposing them. :-) Davey - KU9L
I scanned the comments looking to see if anyone else asked this question, but I didn't see it so I'll toss it out there. When you were discharging the battery, you mentioned that the shorter wires were the ones that got hotter, which makes sense. I'm curious if the shorter wires also go to the cell that is most imbalanced. You said that the capacity of the cell pair might have been slightly lower, but I'm wondering if the shorter (hotter) wires are connected to that cell pair, thus carrying more load while discharging since the resistance is lower, and thus also carrying slightly more current while charging causing that cell pair to always discharge and charge faster than the other cells. If that's the case, simply replacing the wires with all the same length would be a simple but major improvement to the manufacturing of this battery. Every video and piece of literature I've seen always says to keep your parallel wires the same length to avoid this exact problem when connecting multiple battery packs together, but the same principle should apply to the individual cells as well.
The cells are in series. The wires in question go from the negative on one cell to the BMS. And from the BMS to the terminal. The BMS terminals are spread out thus different wire length.
@@Clarks-Adventure gotcha, that makes sense. In my mind I was hoping to have found a simple solution to the imbalance problem and completely overlooked the fact that the cells would have to be in series. D'oh! Thank you for taking the time to respond! I appreciate your videos!
My 600 ah lithium lifpo4 calb plastic encased cells are 200 ah each 3 in parallel and then put in series for 12.8 v 600 ah so 3P 4S setup with a 200 amp daly BMS and i use a xantrex freedom xc 2000 inverter charger here in my camper Van i live in
Hi Clarke, this review series is awesome, thanks for all this information. Too bad you don't do 100ah anymore, I was really hoping you would do a review of the Li Time.
You are very welcome. I think I'm done for a while once I work through the batteries I have. These videos are a lot of work. But I've heard a lot of good from the liTime guys. I might do one for them if they contacted me.
How does the maximum current draw compare between different sizes of battery? For example 2 200AH as compared to 1 400AH or 4 100AH? You are correct that for most people, having power for a greater length of time rather than lots of power right now is the reason for more AH overall. What about those who are using them for motive power? does it make more sense for them to have more smaller batteries? Or I guess the real question then becomes: how many of these can be in series? I guess if it makes 48V (and I think most of them will that is ok. most boat drives with high voltage motors come with their own sealed battery anyway.
The problem is those batteries are crazy expensive. I'm going to look into this as I help a friend with his electric drive project. As for power delivery the first limit is most cells are rated at 1C. So don't try to discharge any bank faster than over 1 hour. ie. A 400ah bank should not be discharged over 400amps. Then it's just a matter of adding up the BMS ratings for batteries in parallel. Two 200ah batteries in parallel with 200a BMSs should produce 400amps but one 400ah battery with a 250a BMS can only put out 250a.
Wow, what an informative video, Clark! It's great to see you experimenting with different lithium options. Based on the comments, it's clear that the Redodo 410ah has impressed many sailors with its output over a year of use. As for the advantages of your bank manager, it's worth looking into whether the BMS would offer benefits in protecting your alternators and preventing fire risks. Keep up the fantastic work on your channel. Keep sailing and sharing your knowledge! 😃👍👏👏👏👏👏👏
can someone please do a head to head comparison of all the new 460ah lifepo4 batteries that are coming out? redodo bird, roamer, litime, epoch, basen, VATRER, power drag queen, etc.. thanks in advance! @@Clarks-Adventure
I don't know about everyone, but I balance the cells manually so the battery is as good as it can be and then I put the case back together and find a home for it on other boats in my bay.
Clark, great video - thanks!! I have a pure lithium house bank (4x Dakota 277's) that are charged by the solar, alternators, H2000 Gen/shore-power directly and DC DC chargers back to 2x FLA start. Would there be any advantages to your bank manager. I already own your DCAC. I do not architecturally like that the drop-in BMS is isolate and therefore cannot, for instance, gracefully shut down high Amp charging (alternators for instance) to protect from frying expensive Alternators or risking a fire event. Any thoughts as to whether your BBMS would be of benefit with this architecture?
I believe it would be of great benefit! Take a look at www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms and watch at least the main video. First and foremost. It charges li correctly. Your charge controllers charge to a voltage. That's fine for lead but not for Li. Also ditching your DC-DCs will give full alternator charging to the li and let your Li float your lead for long lead life. And of course diode protection. Anyway it's all on the page.
The Boat How To course teaches that when connecting batteries together, you make all of the wires the same length so that the resistance of the wires between the batteries is the same for each battery.
@@sailingeden9866 as an electronic technician from 1983, I also found that user error on my part could introduce additional resistance to the equation by not properly crimping my lugs. The cheap crimpers are the enemy of OCD protectionists like me, but I've had lugs get loose slightly down the road that seemed rock solid the moment I created them. I, of course, try to detect this by using high quality meters to measure to test for this, but the older I get the more I admit I no longer leave chance to satisfy my ego. Thanks for helping us all keep real & keep educated.
Hi @EmilyAndClark , congratulations for the video. I have a doubt...if the cables are number 2 AWG 6 for the positive terminal and number 4 AWG 8 for the negative terminal, the maximum amperage they can support is a maximum of 200 amps and you're at the limit anyway, so they are undersized compared to the 250 ampere given by the factory... and therefore it is not the best, correct me if I'm wrong: there is a risk of melting or burning some cables internally and unpredictable damage could occur right?
Yes. I believe I say that. The company and I are deciding how to improve this offering. They are actually open to and asking for my input. We are currently looking into the cell testing procedures. They currently seem to feel that 70c wire temperatures are acceptable. I think there is unlikely to be an actual failure associated with their wire choice but I really don't like the lost power.
@@Clarks-Adventure Ok, so using the inverter with a maximum of 200/210 amperes you should be safe in theory ;) Do you think it might be possible to change the cables by opening the battery at this point? I saw that when you dismantled it they were tightened with bolts from the cell to the pole terminal block, could this be a valid modification? Thank you for the conversation
Sure you could if you wanted to. And the Redodo cases can be opened (with a struggle see my first Redodo review for the method) and resealed without damage.
Well Clark, back again with just a few concerns about what I am doing. I currently have 6ea Valance U27-12XP batteries on my house (Starboard bank and 3ea group 24 lead batteries on the other bank. You suggested a timing relay to combine these batteries while running and then the timer would disconnect then shortly after engine shutdown. I just put a large jumper from one battery to the other and left it that way for 2 months while using the boat. During the day I would get to 14 volts and by morning I would be at 13.2 volts. This worked great while in use and when put into storage, I separated the batteries again. This year I am changing some things up again. I have purchased another 6 Valance U27-12XP batteries and going to replace the port bank with these. Then I should have no problem with balance. As with the Starboard bank, I used 3 feet of #4 wire from each of the 6 batteries to a buss bar where I connected the original boat wiring. I will do the same for the other battery, but may have to use longer lengths of #2 wire because a larger spacing issue, but will keep the same resistance whatever that length needs to be, perhaps 4 feet. Now I have far exceeded the limits that state really only having 4 batteries max in parallel, but as long as all tie together into the buss bars with equal resistance wires, I think there should not be a problem. Now each bank is charged from a seperate 140 amp alternator through a 130 amp isolator. I have found the isolator actually helps keep the amperage down on the alternators, but I will check it closely. The batteries also get charged during the day from hopefully 2600 watts of solar. I say hopefully because I really only have 1000 watts installed at this point and am planning on another 1600 soon. Any thoughts by you or anybody would be greatly appreciated. A great feature of this setup is 1800 amps continuous from the batteries and 3600 amps for 30 seconds surge. It is overkill by at least double from what I need. I have a 3000 watt inverter and another 2000 watt inverter dedicated to the watermaker. This can be a very substantial load when both running, but would be rare to have both combined above 4000 watts, more like 2500 watts. I found no real problems with the current setup except when sitting at anchor for 3-4 days in bad weather waiting for a window to move. Now I will have the capacity to sit for a week at least while waiting without worry or starting the generator. (I hate running the generator)
I am curious if you have ever looked at the EG4 batteries supplied by Signature Solar? I only ask as they are semi local to me and I could pick them up and save shipping. I am more interested in a 48V system but I am reluctant to pull the trigger on a lithium battery. I am excited that the prices are coming down.
Well, Hopefully I don't also have a lemon since I bought 2 of these a couple of months ago! I wanted to increase my total Ah and these were the only ones that fit in my available spaces! Going with 200Ah batteries I would have been OK using 3 - but neither of my battery spaces could physically fit 2 batteries! The smaller gauge wire is a bit concerning - but I never draw anywhere near that kind of current so I should be good. Also curious to know when/if you get any feedback from REDODO on your results.
Not yet from Redodo. I've decided to keep this one for my boat. That will bring us to 1000ah Li and 1500ah Pb which is ridiculous but lets me do some development work on multiple different li banks and the BankManager. Also we can go over aweek with no sun!!!
If you are looking to top balance your new Redodo 12 volt 410ah batteries I have some steps. Each 410ah battery would require these steps or increase the resting times for additional batteries. Step one charge the battery to full which is around 14.6 volts or until the charger current drops to zero amps indicating the bms has shut off. Step two , connect a smart outlet timer to the wall and plug your charger plug into it. Step three, set the timer to be on for two hours and turn off for 48 hours and back on for two hours and off for 48 hours. I recommend doing this so the bms can top balance the cells. You can repeat the process as many times as needed to get to the magic 14.6 volts without the bms shutting off the charger amps abruptly. It sounds like a long process and it is long, but like Clark says, its healthy for the cells to not overcharge to a high voltage and the only way to prevent a cell from reaching a high voltage is to have all the cells completely top balanced.
With the size of the cell pairs and the low balance current of the BMS I couldn't see any noticeable balancing happening. Since I had the case opened I balanced the cells with a power resistor. It still took a long time, these are huge cells. That approach should work but I just don't know how long it would take and I hate holding cells that high for that long. I really wish the manufacturer would add an active balancer inside. I have bought good ones for like 5 bucks on eBay.
@@Clarks-Adventure The trick to seeing if the bms is balancing the pack is to write down what the pack voltage is when the bms shuts off the charging amps. Your battery in the video was around 14.0 volts which is not the advertised 14.4 volts +/- 0.2 volts. After doing a few charge and waiting for the bms to balance for awhile the pack voltage will rise up to its full voltage (14.6 volts). Once I verify the pack reaches 14.6 volts or close to it, the process is complete and the battery can be put in service
Thanks Clark, another excellent review. I was considering installing a couple of these to replace my 4 x 120 Ah Lead Acids, managed by your BBMS of course, as I can get these in Europe and they will deliver them to my boat in Croatia. Getting batteries to fit into the space available has proved difficult and limits my choice and but one of these is a snug fit where two of the old ones sit. But, your comments about the poor quality cell, and too small wires, is putting me off. Will you be taking this up with Redodo, if so I would be interested in what they say, if nothing they have lost a customer as I was considering two of these batteries.
I'm waiting for them to find the video as they have before. That way I can judge their position before bringing up that they should up the wiring I think my cells were bad luck but as with all Chinese battery manufacturers they don't budget for testing or balance. But buyers go for the cheapest so why should they. I'm keeping the 410 as one of Temptress' batteries. I will have to cut the handle anchors off to get it to fit but without those it's like 19.5"
Not yet. These reviews often with a potential buyer like you suggesting our channel to the manufacturer. They then contact me with the offer of a demo battery.
Do you talk about Hall Effect vs Shunt Resistor and why you made that choice and what is your opinion about using shunt resistor monitoring in general elsewhere.
Yes I do. I think on the BankManager video. I hate voltage drop so I used the hall effect in my device but now I know why the shunt is still used. I had to write dynamic calibration code for the hall effect. Something that wouldn't be required for the shunt. The shunt (in my experience) drops more voltage than you think . There is it's resistance of course but the terminal crimps and the bolt looks some to start and more as corrosion comes into play. The opening hall is just a sealed wire you need anyway.
Checked out the leaderboard. Great work! I am sure you said but, are you going to test out 48V batteries? Thanks for answering when a big battery vs several small batteries applies.
It's unlikely I'll review high voltage batteries out here as I just have no use for them after the review. The Elefast company is supposed to be sending a 36v battery to a friend so he can review it for me and put it in his golfcart
Is there an effective difference between a 48V battery, and 4x12V batteries in series? Since that's what they'd be internally anyway. The difference would just be in the supporting stuff inside the battery, the BMS might be set up a little bit differently. Really it's more a 48V _system_ than a 48V battery, in my opinion.
Try it. The 12v batteries tend to get out of balance with each other. All in one battery the the BMS keeps the cells balanced (or it should) If you watch my Duffy conversion you will see a way around this so you can use 12v batteries in series. Any grammar errors?
@@Clarks-Adventure Hm in theory you ought to be able to wire each 12V battery up to your own BMS, although I don't know if they make those. It's not something I'm doing practically, just curious. Shame they don't have a little port on them that lets the batteries' own BMSes link up and do intelligent stuff together. Maybe you'd daisy-chain them all up to each other and have a display and some buttons that plug in to the first / last battery in the chain. They'd have to standardise it, of course, to be any use. Maybe in the future they could get Bluetooth to take care of all the intelligence-sharing. Anyway I do see your point. I suppose, for example, a battery with an intrinsically lower internal resistance is going to see less charging voltage. That's complicated just to start with.
Since you were the grammar police I'm calling you on engineering. Bad idea for a bunch of reasons. The best answer is one big GOOD BMS that controls all the cells. Second best is an external balancer. Hoping they will stay in balance is a very bad idea. You will likely lose power when you most need it.
A point against the company: I was researching some DC-DC chargers and was looking at one Redodo makes. I like to have a look at the manual before I buy something like this, just to make sure there aren't any surprises when the thing shows up at my door. But when I emailed them asking for a manual, they told me I couldn't have the manual until I bought the item. Specifically they said: "I'm sorry to say that because our manuals will contain some of our company's more private information. Due to confidentiality requirements, this information is not convenient to share with customers who have not placed an order. Hope you can understand." I'm sorry, but no, I don't understand. I can't imagine how that policy protects the company's private information if they ship a manual to every customer with the product. Maybe they want to keep secrets from their competitors? They can just buy one of each product and get the manuals. The policy is completely baffling, it seems downright hostile to customers. It makes me wonder what a company has to hide. Is there something in the manual that would make me NOT want to buy your product? Pretty hilarious coming from a country that doesn't seem to believe in intellectual property laws.
Yes that's ridiculous. I really don't like dc-dc chargers anyway. Everything they achieve can be done better differently. I do use one as a cheap current control device
@@Clarks-AdventureDC to DC is the industry gold standard. It is the only way you can accurately control current from the charging system. What you've outlined here in this video is controlled thermal runaway, that's not how a single other manufacturer integrates their alternator based charging systems. It's also really hard on the alternator. If you look at factory built boats if they don't run a smart alternator they run DC to DC.
Probably not. I have no way to test higher voltage batteries out here and after the test I'd have to just throw them away as no one out here could use them.
So I’ve heard that if you budget 400 Ah you should get a 400 Ah battery. Vs. getting 4x100Ah batteries. Save on wiring. Etc. but then if that one battery has a failure you have nothing. If you have 4x100 Ah batteries and you have a failure (like a BMS craps out) you still have 300 Ah that you can use. What’s better? Wouldn’t the redundancy of multiple batteries be worth it?
@@Clarks-Adventure you do. I watched it again. I think you make a reasonable conclusion - fill your budget but with two batteries. So go for 2x200. I’d hate to be days off shore and only have one battery.
The power density some of the newer battery designs offer is a big deal. Half the reason I'm waiting on 7kwh of raw cells to get loaded on a slow boat is so I can fit them in a fairly small compartment on my rv.
How many batteries depends on your load. if you only need to power a 3kw inverter which runs at 2400 watts then 1 battery is fine. if you need to have 5kw inverter, 4000 watts then I would go with 2. Having dual 5kw inverters 4 banks is preferred. This is to keep the C rating down for charge and discharge so you do not overwork your batteries. This is why I like 48v batteries best. Having 4 banks of 48v pulling 10kw is less than .2C where with 12.8v is .8C at the same cell size. That is a lot more heat and load on the electronics. IF you build your system right it can last you 2-3 decades.
Well done testing! That's considered a bad battery when it doesn't provide full capacity. That's a warranty situation. Maybe you don't want to offend the company but that's the black and white conclusion. Is it still fully usable? Yes. Either the IR on those two cells are drastically off or for some other reason the capacity is less. But B grade cells still pull full capacity so this is really poor QC at the factory.
I'd send it back if I had bought it and lived in the US. I actually am using it on my boat. I top balanced it and set my BankManager to not let the battery go below 20 percent so it should be fine. I've been working with the company. They really want to figure out how to protect this from happening again. I just sent the serial number to them today so they can share the cell tests. It will be interesting to see what they test for. They seem to really want to improve their quality.
Hi Clark. Though it would be nice to see them up the standard of wiring in these, I think a house ank of 4 of them would be pretty nice for a discharge rate of say 150 amps over 12 hours, before getting charge put back into them wouldnt be getting anything warming up too much ? For me, for 150 amps over 12 hours is likely an overestimate tbh, and thebank size of 1600 ah, should give a decent amount of power in an emergency, while still having gas for cooking. I'm, iking this one tbh. Best Wishes. Bob. 🤔👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤️
@@Clarks-Adventure They appear to be the type of Company, that will address the wire sizing issue, before I get to the point of ordering them as well, though as you say, I likely won't hzve any hot wire issues anyway. Nice review again Clark. Bob. 👍
Another great video and invaluable information. Now, if I had bought this battery and of course would not test it as you do, would I notice that the battery is sub-par and would it impact my electrical setup?
With 12V 100Ah battteries from PowerQueen, Redodo, LiTime and similar budget brands going for just over $250 right now it makes no sense to buy one big one especially when a battery 4 times the size is 5 times the price...and ends up being less capable than the big battery. The only advantage being the 12V 100Ah batteries come in cases meant for Lead Acid/AGM batteries so there's a ton of empty space. The Mini batteries from the above mentioned batteries solve that problem (unless you really have something against pouch cells). Even the "regular sized" 12V 100Ah batteries can simply be removed from their cases and you can put 4 of them in a box and parallel them on a central bus bar system for $30-$50. That plus a little bit of extra cable and some lugs is your only expense. The big batteries typically have a 200A or 250A BMS....with four 100Ah's you get 400A continous.....Then you get redundancy if the BMS craps out. Which is the most common point of failure for a battery that's going to be a tank for 5+ years in terms of cells.... So the advantage of size....out the window with the Mini's or pulling them out of their oversized cases. They make no sense.
Using 0 AWG or 2 AWG ( 2 would be minimum) of quality battery/welding cable to a quality bus bar in equal lengths will prevent any issues. Buying your batteries in the same batch is another important consideration if you're paralleling more than 2 batteries. I bought 2 PowerQueens and serial numbers were almost consecutive, IR was almost exactly the same and capacity test was identical down to 10mAh and 30 watt hours. Two batteries like that set up like I said will run flawlessly together unless one of them is exposed to something the other isn't.
The problem i have seen in most of these reviews is that the battery company knows its going to be tested and opened. So they make a "special" battery for the review process . I have seen others (you tubers)that will later just buy one like a normal customer would and do a tear down and there is completely different low quality internals. Hard to trust a review when the company knows what's coming.
He only half-mentioned the old saying, but here is your public information announcement... "The proof of the pudding is in the eating". There! How do you "prove" (an older meaning of "prove" meaning more like "test") if a pudding is good? By eating it! That's the way you test puddings, other methods, like looking at it, or weighing it, aren't going to give you the proper proof. Eating it is. There you go, obvious. But when people say "The proof is in the pudding" they sound like Sherlock Holmes or something, where somebody's cook has accidentally / deliberately put arsenic in a pudding, and that's the proof of the murder / accident. Or maybe there's a treasure map hidden in there, or some crucial evidence. Maybe it's drugs. But NO! The proof of the pudding is in the eating! That's the saying! Drives me nuts when people get it wrong! So please, on behalf of all that's right and good in the world, use the saying properly, thank you.
HAHAHAHA Redodo sent a reviewer with 77K subscribers a battery they didn't even discharge test before shipping it out. This is the kind of shit I love about China. They just don't give a fuck. 99% of American companies would have some low level employee check the battery.
These batteries are not suitable for a boat. No Bluetooth means you can not see cell voltages at a glance. No active balancer means the cells won't balance well. It's very revealing to see how unbalanced those cells were when you checked them. This suggests either poor cell balancing at the factory or poor cells or both. Save up and buy a better battery if you are installing it in a boat. Make sure the battery has Bluetooth and an active balancer. It will save you money and frustration in the long run. It may even save your boat when these crappy batteries do a high voltage shutdown as you are entering a harbour at night, in the rain and your radar, chartplotter, depth sounder, nav lights and autopilot go off.
Finally someone agrees with me about batteries should serviceable.
I have two 100Ah Redodo batteries for my box, I had a small issue with one, and their customer service was amazing. I had a few hiccups in the beginning, but it was my fault not theirs. like always amazing review.
three lock box ?
Well done Clark. Thanks for doing reviews like this that apply to both boats and RVs.
Hi Clark, i love your reviews, thank you for doing them. What I am curious to know about this specific model is, if the internal BMS would shut down at zero degrees Celsius and protect it to get destroyed when frozen.
Nope
Unless it expressly says cold protection it isn't. And some of them don't do it right
You dont know how cool I find these setups.I am electrician,and dont take many statements from people about batteries like....be careful,they explode and all these things you might hear a lot too.Some might even think you put your life at risk....But you really know what you are doing.Super useful and something normal folks really should NOT try thenmselves. : )
Its definitely cheaper to replace one with warranty than to put in stronger wiring right away for all.Who uses the BP to the fullest?
Almost never ever.
Thanks Martin. Hope you subscribed
that was loong time back : )
I’ve had 2 of these in use for 12 months now and have been exceptionally happy with output in my application.
That's great. I think I just got a lemon.
But I have decided to put it into Temptress. It's still a good BIG battery.
@@Clarks-Adventure Sad though that considering the price point they didn't do a better job at ferreting out the weak cell and put in wiring too close to the cusp of the batteries capacity.
Perhaps you did get a lemon assembled by someone who ran out of the correct sized cables along with premium cells and made due with what they had on hand to keep the production line moving.
Have you gotten any feedback from Redodo on your findings that you can repeat here?
Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 Sorry to be a pain but it's "make do", not "make due". Public information announcement / endless battle against grammatical mistakes. It's a thankless task.
@@greenaum I see that the historical variant that was acceptable when I went to school is no longer viewed as acceptable by some today. Make due goes to the sense of making appropriate or sufficient which is correct in matching my intent however grammar checkers today recommend using do instead since some may incorrectly view using due as an error.
Best!
@@Clarks-Adventure How many watt hours did the battery output in your capacity test?
Thanks, I'm looking to get new batteries on my sailboat. You are just the person I need to watch.
Thanks.
You might want to start here.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
Another great review for the series. Sometimes the manufacturers are trying to hit an industry size standard. Not necessarily in every situation though. I also thought that the internal wiring was under sized. Trying to save money I guess.
Good advice on the 2 battery minimum. Thanks.
Now I guess I’ll suffer through another Emily and Clark episode to help out the algorithm. I’ve no problem doing that to help a friend.
Cheers 🍻
In the case of RV mounting, I have not seen any examples of good battery securing. My 5W RV comes with a plastic molded well for 2x group 24 or 27 LA batteries. However, working out of our RV I am considering the LiTime 560 AH steel case battery w/cold temp protection. Our fifth wheel front compartment stays above 45 deg F, but I still feel more comfortable with cold protection in case we run out of propane, have a family emergency, etc. but at 133 pounds, this 560 AH battery is Heavy. I thought about screwing down a 1" thick plywood (over the original battery well), then 2x4's laying down around the base screwed to hold HD straps so they battery does not launch itself to the moon during a potential panic stop. My wife works out of our RV running her computers all day. We have 740 watts of solar on our roof and two small banks on the ground with a total of 1,440 watts from a total of three MPPT charge controllers. We are off-grid while working in the summer. The other option might be a metal battery box like I did with our two formal 100 AH BB batteries , but at 9,000' ASL cooling isn't as much of an issue and the AZ desert in winter isn't a big concern either, we try to chase 79 deg F. Anyway, I will keep researching. Your video of the 200 AH Redodo is an option also, 2 or 3 will be needed in parallel. I need to compare Redodo & LiTime. I am good with replacing them every 10 years or should I say repurposing them. :-)
Davey - KU9L
Think seriously about the BankManager. It's really the way to go just now.
The premium for bigger cases is why I haven’t bought one.Nice vid!
Great post Clark. Respect. Always a pleasure. ⛵️🌴🌞
Thanks
Excellent review, thanks
I scanned the comments looking to see if anyone else asked this question, but I didn't see it so I'll toss it out there. When you were discharging the battery, you mentioned that the shorter wires were the ones that got hotter, which makes sense. I'm curious if the shorter wires also go to the cell that is most imbalanced. You said that the capacity of the cell pair might have been slightly lower, but I'm wondering if the shorter (hotter) wires are connected to that cell pair, thus carrying more load while discharging since the resistance is lower, and thus also carrying slightly more current while charging causing that cell pair to always discharge and charge faster than the other cells. If that's the case, simply replacing the wires with all the same length would be a simple but major improvement to the manufacturing of this battery. Every video and piece of literature I've seen always says to keep your parallel wires the same length to avoid this exact problem when connecting multiple battery packs together, but the same principle should apply to the individual cells as well.
The cells are in series.
The wires in question go from the negative on one cell to the BMS. And from the BMS to the terminal. The BMS terminals are spread out thus different wire length.
@@Clarks-Adventure gotcha, that makes sense. In my mind I was hoping to have found a simple solution to the imbalance problem and completely overlooked the fact that the cells would have to be in series. D'oh! Thank you for taking the time to respond! I appreciate your videos!
My 600 ah lithium lifpo4 calb plastic encased cells are 200 ah each 3 in parallel and then put in series for 12.8 v 600 ah so 3P 4S setup with a 200 amp daly BMS and i use a xantrex freedom xc 2000 inverter charger here in my camper Van i live in
Hi Clarke, this review series is awesome, thanks for all this information. Too bad you don't do 100ah anymore, I was really hoping you would do a review of the Li Time.
You are very welcome.
I think I'm done for a while once I work through the batteries I have. These videos are a lot of work.
But I've heard a lot of good from the liTime guys. I might do one for them if they contacted me.
How does the maximum current draw compare between different sizes of battery? For example 2 200AH as compared to 1 400AH or 4 100AH? You are correct that for most people, having power for a greater length of time rather than lots of power right now is the reason for more AH overall. What about those who are using them for motive power? does it make more sense for them to have more smaller batteries? Or I guess the real question then becomes: how many of these can be in series? I guess if it makes 48V (and I think most of them will that is ok. most boat drives with high voltage motors come with their own sealed battery anyway.
The problem is those batteries are crazy expensive. I'm going to look into this as I help a friend with his electric drive project.
As for power delivery the first limit is most cells are rated at 1C. So don't try to discharge any bank faster than over 1 hour. ie. A 400ah bank should not be discharged over 400amps.
Then it's just a matter of adding up the BMS ratings for batteries in parallel. Two 200ah batteries in parallel with 200a BMSs should produce 400amps but one 400ah battery with a 250a BMS can only put out 250a.
Wow, what an informative video, Clark! It's great to see you experimenting with different lithium options. Based on the comments, it's clear that the Redodo 410ah has impressed many sailors with its output over a year of use. As for the advantages of your bank manager, it's worth looking into whether the BMS would offer benefits in protecting your alternators and preventing fire risks. Keep up the fantastic work on your channel. Keep sailing and sharing your knowledge! 😃👍👏👏👏👏👏👏
Wait until you see my next battery review. It's terrifying.
can someone please do a head to head comparison of all the new 460ah lifepo4 batteries that are coming out? redodo bird, roamer, litime, epoch, basen, VATRER, power drag queen, etc.. thanks in advance! @@Clarks-Adventure
Best bet there is contact someone like litime and suggest my channel. They then contact me and send me a battery.
hi are these grade "a" cells? also how can I get this unit for around $500 here in the USA ? thanks @@Clarks-Adventure
sounds only fair :-) @@Clarks-Adventure
What does everyone do with the batteries that are cut open for tasting?
I don't know about everyone, but I balance the cells manually so the battery is as good as it can be and then I put the case back together and find a home for it on other boats in my bay.
@@Clarks-Adventure Old Bay seasoning ?
Clark, great video - thanks!! I have a pure lithium house bank (4x Dakota 277's) that are charged by the solar, alternators, H2000 Gen/shore-power directly and DC DC chargers back to 2x FLA start. Would there be any advantages to your bank manager. I already own your DCAC. I do not architecturally like that the drop-in BMS is isolate and therefore cannot, for instance, gracefully shut down high Amp charging (alternators for instance) to protect from frying expensive Alternators or risking a fire event. Any thoughts as to whether your BBMS would be of benefit with this architecture?
I believe it would be of great benefit! Take a look at www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms and watch at least the main video.
First and foremost. It charges li correctly. Your charge controllers charge to a voltage. That's fine for lead but not for Li.
Also ditching your DC-DCs will give full alternator charging to the li and let your Li float your lead for long lead life. And of course diode protection.
Anyway it's all on the page.
The Boat How To course teaches that when connecting batteries together, you make all of the wires the same length so that the resistance of the wires between the batteries is the same for each battery.
@@sailingeden9866 as an electronic technician from 1983, I also found that user error on my part could introduce additional resistance to the equation by not properly crimping my lugs. The cheap crimpers are the enemy of OCD protectionists like me, but I've had lugs get loose slightly down the road that seemed rock solid the moment I created them. I, of course, try to detect this by using high quality meters to measure to test for this, but the older I get the more I admit I no longer leave chance to satisfy my ego. Thanks for helping us all keep real & keep educated.
Hi @EmilyAndClark , congratulations for the video. I have a doubt...if the cables are number 2 AWG 6 for the positive terminal and number 4 AWG 8 for the negative terminal, the maximum amperage they can support is a maximum of 200 amps and you're at the limit anyway, so they are undersized compared to the 250 ampere given by the factory... and therefore it is not the best, correct me if I'm wrong: there is a risk of melting or burning some cables internally and unpredictable damage could occur right?
Yes. I believe I say that.
The company and I are deciding how to improve this offering. They are actually open to and asking for my input. We are currently looking into the cell testing procedures. They currently seem to feel that 70c wire temperatures are acceptable. I think there is unlikely to be an actual failure associated with their wire choice but I really don't like the lost power.
@@Clarks-Adventure Ok, so using the inverter with a maximum of 200/210 amperes you should be safe in theory ;)
Do you think it might be possible to change the cables by opening the battery at this point? I saw that when you dismantled it they were tightened with bolts from the cell to the pole terminal block, could this be a valid modification?
Thank you for the conversation
Sure you could if you wanted to. And the Redodo cases can be opened (with a struggle see my first Redodo review for the method) and resealed without damage.
Well Clark, back again with just a few concerns about what I am doing. I currently have 6ea Valance U27-12XP batteries on my house (Starboard bank and 3ea group 24 lead batteries on the other bank. You suggested a timing relay to combine these batteries while running and then the timer would disconnect then shortly after engine shutdown. I just put a large jumper from one battery to the other and left it that way for 2 months while using the boat. During the day I would get to 14 volts and by morning I would be at 13.2 volts. This worked great while in use and when put into storage, I separated the batteries again. This year I am changing some things up again. I have purchased another 6 Valance U27-12XP batteries and going to replace the port bank with these. Then I should have no problem with balance. As with the Starboard bank, I used 3 feet of #4 wire from each of the 6 batteries to a buss bar where I connected the original boat wiring. I will do the same for the other battery, but may have to use longer lengths of #2 wire because a larger spacing issue, but will keep the same resistance whatever that length needs to be, perhaps 4 feet. Now I have far exceeded the limits that state really only having 4 batteries max in parallel, but as long as all tie together into the buss bars with equal resistance wires, I think there should not be a problem. Now each bank is charged from a seperate 140 amp alternator through a 130 amp isolator. I have found the isolator actually helps keep the amperage down on the alternators, but I will check it closely. The batteries also get charged during the day from hopefully 2600 watts of solar. I say hopefully because I really only have 1000 watts installed at this point and am planning on another 1600 soon.
Any thoughts by you or anybody would be greatly appreciated.
A great feature of this setup is 1800 amps continuous from the batteries and 3600 amps for 30 seconds surge. It is overkill by at least double from what I need. I have a 3000 watt inverter and another 2000 watt inverter dedicated to the watermaker. This can be a very substantial load when both running, but would be rare to have both combined above 4000 watts, more like 2500 watts. I found no real problems with the current setup except when sitting at anchor for 3-4 days in bad weather waiting for a window to move. Now I will have the capacity to sit for a week at least while waiting without worry or starting the generator. (I hate running the generator)
Using two BankManagers solves the problem of unequal resistance and too many in parallel. Each side would be charged to its own needs.
I am curious if you have ever looked at the EG4 batteries supplied by Signature Solar? I only ask as they are semi local to me and I could pick them up and save shipping. I am more interested in a 48V system but I am reluctant to pull the trigger on a lithium battery. I am excited that the prices are coming down.
No they haven't offered me one. But I'm not really equipped to test 48v here on the boat so probably not a good match.
@@Clarks-Adventure they have some 12V options as well 100ah and 400ah.
Well it all starts with an offer of a battery from them
And that often starts with a potential customer like you suggesting our channel to them.
done@@Clarks-Adventure
Well, Hopefully I don't also have a lemon since I bought 2 of these a couple of months ago! I wanted to increase my total Ah and these were the only ones that fit in my available spaces! Going with 200Ah batteries I would have been OK using 3 - but neither of my battery spaces could physically fit 2 batteries! The smaller gauge wire is a bit concerning - but I never draw anywhere near that kind of current so I should be good. Also curious to know when/if you get any feedback from REDODO on your results.
Not yet from Redodo.
I've decided to keep this one for my boat. That will bring us to 1000ah Li and 1500ah Pb which is ridiculous but lets me do some development work on multiple different li banks and the BankManager.
Also we can go over aweek with no sun!!!
If you are looking to top balance your new Redodo 12 volt 410ah batteries I have some steps. Each 410ah battery would require these steps or increase the resting times for additional batteries. Step one charge the battery to full which is around 14.6 volts or until the charger current drops to zero amps indicating the bms has shut off. Step two , connect a smart outlet timer to the wall and plug your charger plug into it. Step three, set the timer to be on for two hours and turn off for 48 hours and back on for two hours and off for 48 hours. I recommend doing this so the bms can top balance the cells. You can repeat the process as many times as needed to get to the magic 14.6 volts without the bms shutting off the charger amps abruptly. It sounds like a long process and it is long, but like Clark says, its healthy for the cells to not overcharge to a high voltage and the only way to prevent a cell from reaching a high voltage is to have all the cells completely top balanced.
With the size of the cell pairs and the low balance current of the BMS I couldn't see any noticeable balancing happening. Since I had the case opened I balanced the cells with a power resistor. It still took a long time, these are huge cells.
That approach should work but I just don't know how long it would take and I hate holding cells that high for that long.
I really wish the manufacturer would add an active balancer inside. I have bought good ones for like 5 bucks on eBay.
@@Clarks-Adventure The trick to seeing if the bms is balancing the pack is to write down what the pack voltage is when the bms shuts off the charging amps. Your battery in the video was around 14.0 volts which is not the advertised 14.4 volts +/- 0.2 volts. After doing a few charge and waiting for the bms to balance for awhile the pack voltage will rise up to its full voltage (14.6 volts). Once I verify the pack reaches 14.6 volts or close to it, the process is complete and the battery can be put in service
Yep
This is good advice people.
Thanks Clark, another excellent review.
I was considering installing a couple of these to replace my 4 x 120 Ah Lead Acids, managed by your BBMS of course, as I can get these in Europe and they will deliver them to my boat in Croatia.
Getting batteries to fit into the space available has proved difficult and limits my choice and but one of these is a snug fit where two of the old ones sit.
But, your comments about the poor quality cell, and too small wires, is putting me off.
Will you be taking this up with Redodo, if so I would be interested in what they say, if nothing they have lost a customer as I was considering two of these batteries.
I'm waiting for them to find the video as they have before. That way I can judge their position before bringing up that they should up the wiring
I think my cells were bad luck but as with all Chinese battery manufacturers they don't budget for testing or balance. But buyers go for the cheapest so why should they.
I'm keeping the 410 as one of Temptress' batteries. I will have to cut the handle anchors off to get it to fit but without those it's like 19.5"
Can be charged by the alternator if the boat?
Sure but you should use a BankManager and watch my alternator videos first
what is the best (cheapest) 36 volt lithium battery for a trolling motor
I'm not exactly sure but I have a 36v golf cart battery review coming up soon. Seems a good one
Have you had the chance to review the Mehrpow battery yet?
Not yet.
These reviews often with a potential buyer like you suggesting our channel to the manufacturer.
They then contact me with the offer of a demo battery.
Do you talk about Hall Effect vs Shunt Resistor and why you made that choice and what is your opinion about using shunt resistor monitoring in general elsewhere.
Yes I do. I think on the BankManager video.
I hate voltage drop so I used the hall effect in my device but now I know why the shunt is still used. I had to write dynamic calibration code for the hall effect. Something that wouldn't be required for the shunt.
The shunt (in my experience) drops more voltage than you think . There is it's resistance of course but the terminal crimps and the bolt looks some to start and more as corrosion comes into play. The opening hall is just a sealed wire you need anyway.
The list hasn't been updated yet. I mean it's there but it's listed as TBA with no video link.
I'll look into it. Thanks
Checked out the leaderboard. Great work! I am sure you said but, are you going to test out 48V batteries? Thanks for answering when a big battery vs several small batteries applies.
It's unlikely I'll review high voltage batteries out here as I just have no use for them after the review.
The Elefast company is supposed to be sending a 36v battery to a friend so he can review it for me and put it in his golfcart
Is there an effective difference between a 48V battery, and 4x12V batteries in series? Since that's what they'd be internally anyway. The difference would just be in the supporting stuff inside the battery, the BMS might be set up a little bit differently. Really it's more a 48V _system_ than a 48V battery, in my opinion.
Try it. The 12v batteries tend to get out of balance with each other. All in one battery the the BMS keeps the cells balanced (or it should)
If you watch my Duffy conversion you will see a way around this so you can use 12v batteries in series.
Any grammar errors?
@@Clarks-Adventure Hm in theory you ought to be able to wire each 12V battery up to your own BMS, although I don't know if they make those. It's not something I'm doing practically, just curious. Shame they don't have a little port on them that lets the batteries' own BMSes link up and do intelligent stuff together. Maybe you'd daisy-chain them all up to each other and have a display and some buttons that plug in to the first / last battery in the chain. They'd have to standardise it, of course, to be any use. Maybe in the future they could get Bluetooth to take care of all the intelligence-sharing.
Anyway I do see your point. I suppose, for example, a battery with an intrinsically lower internal resistance is going to see less charging voltage. That's complicated just to start with.
Since you were the grammar police I'm calling you on engineering.
Bad idea for a bunch of reasons. The best answer is one big GOOD BMS that controls all the cells. Second best is an external balancer.
Hoping they will stay in balance is a very bad idea.
You will likely lose power when you most need it.
A point against the company: I was researching some DC-DC chargers and was looking at one Redodo makes. I like to have a look at the manual before I buy something like this, just to make sure there aren't any surprises when the thing shows up at my door. But when I emailed them asking for a manual, they told me I couldn't have the manual until I bought the item.
Specifically they said:
"I'm sorry to say that because our manuals will contain some of our company's more private information. Due to confidentiality requirements, this information is not convenient to share with customers who have not placed an order. Hope you can understand."
I'm sorry, but no, I don't understand. I can't imagine how that policy protects the company's private information if they ship a manual to every customer with the product. Maybe they want to keep secrets from their competitors? They can just buy one of each product and get the manuals. The policy is completely baffling, it seems downright hostile to customers. It makes me wonder what a company has to hide. Is there something in the manual that would make me NOT want to buy your product?
Pretty hilarious coming from a country that doesn't seem to believe in intellectual property laws.
Yes that's ridiculous.
I really don't like dc-dc chargers anyway. Everything they achieve can be done better differently. I do use one as a cheap current control device
@@Clarks-Adventure Yeah, I was looking at them earlier in my research, before I found your BBMS.
Well I publish the manual!!
@@Clarks-AdventureDC to DC is the industry gold standard. It is the only way you can accurately control current from the charging system. What you've outlined here in this video is controlled thermal runaway, that's not how a single other manufacturer integrates their alternator based charging systems. It's also really hard on the alternator.
If you look at factory built boats if they don't run a smart alternator they run DC to DC.
Hi Clark, long time subscriber here. Have u thought about reviewing some server rack batteries? i'm thinking of using them on my boat . . . thoughts?
Probably not. I have no way to test higher voltage batteries out here and after the test I'd have to just throw them away as no one out here could use them.
What are your thoughts about the next-gen solid state batteries? Too far out in the future to think about practically?
How many soon-to-arrive battery stories have come to nothing?
Believe it when you see it.
@@Clarks-Adventure Toyota seems to think it's going to be a thing but they also spent forever trying to make hydrogen happen.
So I’ve heard that if you budget 400 Ah you should get a 400 Ah battery. Vs. getting 4x100Ah batteries. Save on wiring. Etc. but then if that one battery has a failure you have nothing. If you have 4x100 Ah batteries and you have a failure (like a BMS craps out) you still have 300 Ah that you can use. What’s better? Wouldn’t the redundancy of multiple batteries be worth it?
I talk about that in depth on one of my videos. I thought it was this one. Did you watch it?
@@Clarks-Adventure you do. I watched it again. I think you make a reasonable conclusion - fill your budget but with two batteries. So go for 2x200. I’d hate to be days off shore and only have one battery.
Does it cold weather charge protection?
Nope
The power density some of the newer battery designs offer is a big deal. Half the reason I'm waiting on 7kwh of raw cells to get loaded on a slow boat is so I can fit them in a fairly small compartment on my rv.
Better batteries will come but LiFePO4 is good enough. That's a big thing. Lead wasn't good enough.
Reasons i did my own battery setup cause my wiring and bus bars can handle 300 amps and not get hot
Nice battery. It would be a shame to shorten its life by charging it to a voltage.
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
Does the algorithm work from week to week, 'cause I watch them all. One more thing, what is you electrical channel?
Thanks. Yes I see your comments everywhere!
There is a playlist called something like electrical master class ? I forget exactly
Great reviews!
Thanks
How many batteries depends on your load. if you only need to power a 3kw inverter which runs at 2400 watts then 1 battery is fine. if you need to have 5kw inverter, 4000 watts then I would go with 2. Having dual 5kw inverters 4 banks is preferred. This is to keep the C rating down for charge and discharge so you do not overwork your batteries. This is why I like 48v batteries best. Having 4 banks of 48v pulling 10kw is less than .2C where with 12.8v is .8C at the same cell size. That is a lot more heat and load on the electronics. IF you build your system right it can last you 2-3 decades.
Well done testing!
That's considered a bad battery when it doesn't provide full capacity. That's a warranty situation. Maybe you don't want to offend the company but that's the black and white conclusion.
Is it still fully usable? Yes.
Either the IR on those two cells are drastically off or for some other reason the capacity is less. But B grade cells still pull full capacity so this is really poor QC at the factory.
I'd send it back if I had bought it and lived in the US. I actually am using it on my boat. I top balanced it and set my BankManager to not let the battery go below 20 percent so it should be fine.
I've been working with the company. They really want to figure out how to protect this from happening again. I just sent the serial number to them today so they can share the cell tests. It will be interesting to see what they test for. They seem to really want to improve their quality.
@@Clarks-Adventure That's good to hear.
Hi Clark. Though it would be nice to see them up the standard of wiring in these, I think a house ank of 4 of them would be pretty nice for a discharge rate of say 150 amps over 12 hours, before getting charge put back into them wouldnt be getting anything warming up too much ? For me, for 150 amps over 12 hours is likely an overestimate tbh, and thebank size of 1600 ah, should give a decent amount of power in an emergency, while still having gas for cooking. I'm, iking this one tbh. Best Wishes. Bob. 🤔👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤️
Yes, that would only be 35a per battery. No heat at all.
I'm keeping this one on Temptress. Even with the bad cells it's a hell of a battery.
@@Clarks-Adventure They appear to be the type of Company, that will address the wire sizing issue, before I get to the point of ordering them as well, though as you say, I likely won't hzve any hot wire issues anyway. Nice review again Clark. Bob. 👍
Another great video and invaluable information. Now, if I had bought this battery and of course would not test it as you do, would I notice that the battery is sub-par and would it impact my electrical setup?
No it's most likely you'd never notice.
That's why I have to open them.
Appreciate your reviews, but why are we still talking about batteries in terms of amp hours and not watt hours?
With 12V 100Ah battteries from PowerQueen, Redodo, LiTime and similar budget brands going for just over $250 right now it makes no sense to buy one big one especially when a battery 4 times the size is 5 times the price...and ends up being less capable than the big battery. The only advantage being the 12V 100Ah batteries come in cases meant for Lead Acid/AGM batteries so there's a ton of empty space. The Mini batteries from the above mentioned batteries solve that problem (unless you really have something against pouch cells). Even the "regular sized" 12V 100Ah batteries can simply be removed from their cases and you can put 4 of them in a box and parallel them on a central bus bar system for $30-$50. That plus a little bit of extra cable and some lugs is your only expense.
The big batteries typically have a 200A or 250A BMS....with four 100Ah's you get 400A continous.....Then you get redundancy if the BMS craps out. Which is the most common point of failure for a battery that's going to be a tank for 5+ years in terms of cells....
So the advantage of size....out the window with the Mini's or pulling them out of their oversized cases.
They make no sense.
Using 0 AWG or 2 AWG ( 2 would be minimum) of quality battery/welding cable to a quality bus bar in equal lengths will prevent any issues. Buying your batteries in the same batch is another important consideration if you're paralleling more than 2 batteries. I bought 2 PowerQueens and serial numbers were almost consecutive, IR was almost exactly the same and capacity test was identical down to 10mAh and 30 watt hours.
Two batteries like that set up like I said will run flawlessly together unless one of them is exposed to something the other isn't.
one cell 3.6, the others 3.4xx, you call no concerning imbalance ??
I call it a very concerning imbalance. Did you watch to the end?
Nice
Thanks
I wish
😎
The problem i have seen in most of these reviews is that the battery company knows its going to be tested and opened. So they make a "special" battery for the review process .
I have seen others (you tubers)that will later just buy one like a normal customer would and do a tear down and there is completely different low quality internals.
Hard to trust a review when the company knows what's coming.
I think they just sent me one off the shelf
It had a flawed cell.
He only half-mentioned the old saying, but here is your public information announcement... "The proof of the pudding is in the eating". There! How do you "prove" (an older meaning of "prove" meaning more like "test") if a pudding is good? By eating it! That's the way you test puddings, other methods, like looking at it, or weighing it, aren't going to give you the proper proof. Eating it is.
There you go, obvious. But when people say "The proof is in the pudding" they sound like Sherlock Holmes or something, where somebody's cook has accidentally / deliberately put arsenic in a pudding, and that's the proof of the murder / accident. Or maybe there's a treasure map hidden in there, or some crucial evidence. Maybe it's drugs.
But NO! The proof of the pudding is in the eating! That's the saying! Drives me nuts when people get it wrong! So please, on behalf of all that's right and good in the world, use the saying properly, thank you.
Keep in mind it would get significantly hotter with the cover on.
Yep. That's why I somewhat accepted this in their smaller battery. This battery could keep up a 200a delivery for 2 full hours.
Heat builds up
I thought you where going to cook and review: Batter.
where? Can I fix it?
@@Clarks-Adventure Batter teardown 0:35
Thanks. As I feared it's in the video. I can't fix that.
Well not my first mistake.
😃👍👏👏👏👏👏👏
HAHAHAHA Redodo sent a reviewer with 77K subscribers a battery they didn't even discharge test before shipping it out. This is the kind of shit I love about China. They just don't give a fuck. 99% of American companies would have some low level employee check the battery.
These batteries are not suitable for a boat. No Bluetooth means you can not see cell voltages at a glance. No active balancer means the cells won't balance well. It's very revealing to see how unbalanced those cells were when you checked them. This suggests either poor cell balancing at the factory or poor cells or both.
Save up and buy a better battery if you are installing it in a boat. Make sure the battery has Bluetooth and an active balancer. It will save you money and frustration in the long run. It may even save your boat when these crappy batteries do a high voltage shutdown as you are entering a harbour at night, in the rain and your radar, chartplotter, depth sounder, nav lights and autopilot go off.
Thanks for your opinion
It's apparent you care about batteries. I bet you would enjoy looking into my BankManager
www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms
😊
Nothing in your video regarding safety and do/don'ts, wouldn't recommend doing this in a domestic property.
🤣 he hearted this comment
The promotional code did not work? EmilyAndClark
It should but I tried it yesterday and since there was a black Friday discount in effect our code wasn't also accepted.