How in the world are you folks? I'm so happy that you're here and watching my video. I'm learning as I go, friends. If you have constructive comments, please send them my way. Keep the hateful stuff to yourself, please. I hope you enjoy the video!
It's best to treat Ailanthus in LATE summer up until the time you start seeing leaves turn color or you get a killing frost; no later. That time of year is when the tree stops focusing on new growth and starts seriously sending resources down into the roots, allowing the herbicide (which needs to be systemic; triclopyr is systemic ) to translocate into the root system, killing the entire organism not just top kill. Girdling causes distress signals and might reduce the amount of herbicide translocated into the roots which can result in suckers... lots of suckers. Good kills are completely necessary when trying to control a suckering species which Ailanthus is.. BIG TIME. Hack and squirt would be a better choice for any tree over 6 inches in diameter but should only be done late summer-early fall, basal bark applications should only be used for trees under 6 inches but can be done in the winter. If your feeling wild you can probably get away with cut stem treatments by running a hotter mix of an amine formulation (maybe even undiluted) on SEEDLINGS with root systems that are not well established.. not a young ramet/sucker.. it's hard to tell the difference. I would recommend switching to hack and squirt because this tree is too large for basal bark treatment and if done properly you would use a fraction of the herbicide you used in the video... the goal is to always use herbicide in the most efficient way possible which inherently results in the minimum amount of herbicide being used. Not trying to judge, I'm just bored and figured I'd throw this out there. Good on you for making the effort, if only more landowners would do the same.
This is the kind of kind of feedback sincerely appreciate. The only reason I know anything at all about the topic is because a professional forester walked our property with me, collecting data which he later included in a final report on the state of our forest. This was the basis for us qualifying for the CAUV program in our state. The report included various methods of killing these invasive species. But I had no real experience with any of the methods. The one I tried that worked the first time was basal herbicide. But there was little information about which method works better based on the age of the tree. So I understand why most homeowners never learn about this topic. And those like me are hungry for more information about it. Thank you for your thoughtful comments!
@@WaynePolcin Hopefully something in there is useful to you. The product label is always the place to start in regards to PPE/proper application methods/mixes/timing etc. but don't hesitate to reference PennState Extension; tons of information on invasive management, I have nothing but good things to say about that resource. Good luck!
You are correct on that. As a matter of fact, you don’t have to remove the bark either. Just a complete basal coat of the triclopyr is all that’s needed. I just wanted to guarantee that this tree was going to die, since I did such a hack job on the girdle haha!
I like running the saws too, much better than manual tools. That being said, the 572 w/a 20" bar would have been the tool of choice for that job. I would just use the top side of the bar so I didn't even get chips all over me 😀. You got it done though. Will it take more than one application. I find it best to apply herbicides in the fall when the nutrients are traveling back to the root system when possible, but fall is a busy time 😳, so I don't typically get to the ones I want to spray. Have a great week.
I have found that the basal application seems to work through the end of July on the Ailanthus trees. I can't speak for other trees. I actually misspoke when I said that cutting through the cambium would cut off the water supply. The water is supplied through the heartwood or xylem, behind the cambium. So the phloem and cambium layers carry nutrients throughout the tree. Good point about using the top of the bar. I will remember that. Thanks, Brett!
@@WaynePolcin Cool, I've never even cut one of those that I'm aware of. The only time I use it is on trees I've cut down, and that mainly being on invasives(autumn/ russian olive), with a dabber as many of them are smaller. The black locust will put up shoots off the stump or even the roots when you cut one down, they are very prolific, quite the weed. I'm a big fan of running the saws over the manual labor, and I would rather not get dirty if I don't have to ;), but it seems I'm always getting dirty lol.
Hello and thank you for the video! I had never seen this and appreciate the time you put in. I cleared a hill covered in these by chainsaw and digging out root clusters and got rashes on my underarms and belly that convinced me the soil was toxic - but I recently found they have insecticidal/poisonous properties and can give you rashes when felled. It may have been more prevalent when working on the root clusters? Cover up around these! The resin alone that rubs off on you moving through a thicket gets stinky quick. And shout out to the comment on these being introduced in the 60s. With the way culture seems to go... I bet we find some weird medicinal value in these years from now the Chinese knew all along.
Hi Wayne and Suzie!!😀😀 Do you have a lot of those trees on the property?? Handling the herbicide you should definitely be wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves. That is some nasty stuff too mess with. Even though I have my applicator license I refuse to touch the stuff. I messed with too much of it when I was younger without any protection because Nobody told me how dangerous it really was when I was killing potato vines back in the 80s. Take care my friend!!😀❤❤TTYL!! Logger Al
We do have a lot of the Ailanthus trees. I try not to make contact with the actual Triclopyr solution, but I recently purchased a respirator for those times when I spray the foliage. The dye on my hands was just dye, not the herbicide. But you are correct. I should be more careful. I will make note of that in future videos. Thanks so much, Al! I know you have my best interest in mind! Great feedback!
Hey BG Tech. That's quite an accurate statement from a techie guy like yourself. Looks like I will spending some time watching your videos. Electronics and engineering was my whole career before I found out that I like being outdoors a whole lot more. So I've been interested in tree work for the past five or so years. Thanks for the input my friend. I'm gonna head over to your channel to subscribe. Stay kind!
@@WaynePolcin My main interest is electronics but I also enjoy learning about trees and botany. If you watch my videos I appreciate it and I hope you learn something. (That’s why I make them)
Hi Wayne! Pass my hello and a hug on to Suzie. I have no idea what an Ailanthus tree is or why it should be killed. I see trees as fuel to stay warm, or something to look at in awe. But I know there are species that we don't want around, I just don't know why or which ones. That's yet another reason why I don't do tree work. I was happy to see another video from you when I turned on my PC this morning. Wayne Polcin with toast and coffee. How can you beat that?
Haha, Angie! I'm happy I could join you for breakfast! We had to take a crash course on invasive species in order to maintain our CAUV contract with the state of Ohio. The tax incentive is huge! The Ailanthus was imported from China into Pennsylvania and New York as an ornamental tree back in the 18th and 19th centuries. They can grow as fast as 6 feet per year and they produce a chemical that is toxic to native plant growth in the understory. I don't think you have too many of them in the Wisconsin region, but I'm sure there are some. This is the biggest one I have found on our property. The problem is that neighboring properties have large stands of the Ailanthus and that makes it hard for us to control what's on our property. Take care Angie! We love you!
@@WaynePolcin It could only have been better this morning if you and Suzie and I could have actually been together for breakfast. And I love you back 💓
Hey Mike! They do grow fast and abundantly. I have read that they can grow as much as 6 feet per year. And if you try controlling by cutting them down, you end up stimulating more growth in the understory. Herbicidal control has worked best for me.
Girdling? ouchewowa that's a major job there WP... guess that is done because if you cut it down, the roots just send out about a billion other ailanthus babies? Gotta say, that title was catchy for us to tune in to see what the heck you were doing with girdles! Have a good one and howdy to Suz the Q!. BTW, be safe out there with that firearm on your hip, dancing around the tree... 👍🏻🐶
That has to be the second-best girdling job I've ever seen "99". Actually, come to think of it I have never seen that done before. Up here when we want to kill a tree we cut its head off. Something we learned from the French back in the 1700s. Nice job though!
Haha! It seems like we tend to make things more complicated than they need to be! But if I had just cut it down, that would have made for an even more boring video!😂 So good to hear from you, Don! Stay well, stay kind!
Well it’s been a year and still not sign of root sprouts. Letting them die on the stump is very effective. Actually, I would rather apply the triclopyr and not girdle the tree. Girdling is not necessary.
Any updates on that tree? I just did the basal method on a few trees over the weekend, which doesn't seem to me it would be effective, but we will see.
You have to be patient as the herbicide works. I assume you used some type of carrier like diesel fuel to allow the herbicide to cling and penetrate into the bark. That is key. Also, be sure to coat the entire trunk from the ground to about 20 inches up. The time of year is important as well. The months of July and August should be good months for treatment. I just basal coated several more Ailanthus trees a week ago and some are showing discoloring in the leaves, while others are not. If I don't see dead leaves after a month, I will go out and reapply the herbicide. I have had better results in the cold months of March and early April. Sorry for being long winded. I hope you have great success against the Tree of Heaven. Thanks for the feedback. Stay kind!
You can girdle a tree any time of year as long as you make the cut deep enough to cut of the supply of nutrients provided by the inner bark or phloem layer. It’s safe to go about 1 inch into the tree to effectively girdle it.
Yeah. It's like the debate about whether you should use two hands on a top handle saw while in the canopy. The rule is good, but it can't always be applied, so you mitigate the risk in other ways. Good to hear from you Jeremy! Hope all is well with you and your family!
How in the world are you folks? I'm so happy that you're here and watching my video. I'm learning as I go, friends. If you have constructive comments, please send them my way. Keep the hateful stuff to yourself, please. I hope you enjoy the video!
Quick question i forgot my mask..can i still watch
It's best to treat Ailanthus in LATE summer up until the time you start seeing leaves turn color or you get a killing frost; no later. That time of year is when the tree stops focusing on new growth and starts seriously sending resources down into the roots, allowing the herbicide (which needs to be systemic; triclopyr is systemic ) to translocate into the root system, killing the entire organism not just top kill. Girdling causes distress signals and might reduce the amount of herbicide translocated into the roots which can result in suckers... lots of suckers.
Good kills are completely necessary when trying to control a suckering species which Ailanthus is.. BIG TIME. Hack and squirt would be a better choice for any tree over 6 inches in diameter but should only be done late summer-early fall, basal bark applications should only be used for trees under 6 inches but can be done in the winter. If your feeling wild you can probably get away with cut stem treatments by running a hotter mix of an amine formulation (maybe even undiluted) on SEEDLINGS with root systems that are not well established.. not a young ramet/sucker.. it's hard to tell the difference.
I would recommend switching to hack and squirt because this tree is too large for basal bark treatment and if done properly you would use a fraction of the herbicide you used in the video... the goal is to always use herbicide in the most efficient way possible which inherently results in the minimum amount of herbicide being used.
Not trying to judge, I'm just bored and figured I'd throw this out there. Good on you for making the effort, if only more landowners would do the same.
This is the kind of kind of feedback sincerely appreciate. The only reason I know anything at all about the topic is because a professional forester walked our property with me, collecting data which he later included in a final report on the state of our forest. This was the basis for us qualifying for the CAUV program in our state. The report included various methods of killing these invasive species. But I had no real experience with any of the methods. The one I tried that worked the first time was basal herbicide. But there was little information about which method works better based on the age of the tree. So I understand why most homeowners never learn about this topic. And those like me are hungry for more information about it. Thank you for your thoughtful comments!
@@WaynePolcin Hopefully something in there is useful to you. The product label is always the place to start in regards to PPE/proper application methods/mixes/timing etc. but don't hesitate to reference PennState Extension; tons of information on invasive management, I have nothing but good things to say about that resource. Good luck!
I was taught that only need to remove outer bark, when girdling with a herbicide. Love the red dye idea.
They stink to the high heaven. Great video.
You are correct on that. As a matter of fact, you don’t have to remove the bark either. Just a complete basal coat of the triclopyr is all that’s needed. I just wanted to guarantee that this tree was going to die, since I did such a hack job on the girdle haha!
I like running the saws too, much better than manual tools. That being said, the 572 w/a 20" bar would have been the tool of choice for that job. I would just use the top side of the bar so I didn't even get chips all over me 😀.
You got it done though.
Will it take more than one application. I find it best to apply herbicides in the fall when the nutrients are traveling back to the root system when possible, but fall is a busy time 😳, so I don't typically get to the ones I want to spray.
Have a great week.
I have found that the basal application seems to work through the end of July on the Ailanthus trees. I can't speak for other trees. I actually misspoke when I said that cutting through the cambium would cut off the water supply. The water is supplied through the heartwood or xylem, behind the cambium. So the phloem and cambium layers carry nutrients throughout the tree. Good point about using the top of the bar. I will remember that. Thanks, Brett!
@@WaynePolcin
Cool, I've never even cut one of those that I'm aware of. The only time I use it is on trees I've cut down, and that mainly being on invasives(autumn/ russian olive), with a dabber as many of them are smaller. The black locust will put up shoots off the stump or even the roots when you cut one down, they are very prolific, quite the weed.
I'm a big fan of running the saws over the manual labor, and I would rather not get dirty if I don't have to ;), but it seems I'm always getting dirty lol.
Hello and thank you for the video! I had never seen this and appreciate the time you put in.
I cleared a hill covered in these by chainsaw and digging out root clusters and got rashes on my underarms and belly that convinced me the soil was toxic - but I recently found they have insecticidal/poisonous properties and can give you rashes when felled. It may have been more prevalent when working on the root clusters? Cover up around these! The resin alone that rubs off on you moving through a thicket gets stinky quick.
And shout out to the comment on these being introduced in the 60s. With the way culture seems to go... I bet we find some weird medicinal value in these years from now the Chinese knew all along.
Seventeen 60’s . Not nineteen 60s. Sheesh. In China there are natural predators,to contain them.
Hi Wayne and Suzie!!😀😀
Do you have a lot of those trees on the property??
Handling the herbicide you should definitely be wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves. That is some nasty stuff too mess with.
Even though I have my applicator license I refuse to touch the stuff. I messed with too much of it when I was younger without any protection because Nobody told me how dangerous it really was when I was killing potato vines back in the 80s.
Take care my friend!!😀❤❤TTYL!!
Logger Al
We do have a lot of the Ailanthus trees. I try not to make contact with the actual Triclopyr solution, but I recently purchased a respirator for those times when I spray the foliage. The dye on my hands was just dye, not the herbicide. But you are correct. I should be more careful. I will make note of that in future videos. Thanks so much, Al! I know you have my best interest in mind! Great feedback!
The cambium is the active cell matrix that creates new cells for both the xylem and phloem
Hey BG Tech. That's quite an accurate statement from a techie guy like yourself. Looks like I will spending some time watching your videos. Electronics and engineering was my whole career before I found out that I like being outdoors a whole lot more. So I've been interested in tree work for the past five or so years. Thanks for the input my friend. I'm gonna head over to your channel to subscribe. Stay kind!
@@WaynePolcin My main interest is electronics but I also enjoy learning about trees and botany. If you watch my videos I appreciate it and I hope you learn something. (That’s why I make them)
Very cool!!!!!!
Hi Andrea! How in the world are you? I hope you're well. Thanks for popping into the comments!
Hi Wayne! Pass my hello and a hug on to Suzie. I have no idea what an Ailanthus tree is or why it should be killed. I see trees as fuel to stay warm, or something to look at in awe. But I know there are species that we don't want around, I just don't know why or which ones. That's yet another reason why I don't do tree work. I was happy to see another video from you when I turned on my PC this morning. Wayne Polcin with toast and coffee. How can you beat that?
Haha, Angie! I'm happy I could join you for breakfast! We had to take a crash course on invasive species in order to maintain our CAUV contract with the state of Ohio. The tax incentive is huge! The Ailanthus was imported from China into Pennsylvania and New York as an ornamental tree back in the 18th and 19th centuries. They can grow as fast as 6 feet per year and they produce a chemical that is toxic to native plant growth in the understory. I don't think you have too many of them in the Wisconsin region, but I'm sure there are some. This is the biggest one I have found on our property. The problem is that neighboring properties have large stands of the Ailanthus and that makes it hard for us to control what's on our property. Take care Angie! We love you!
@@WaynePolcin It could only have been better this morning if you and Suzie and I could have actually been together for breakfast. And I love you back 💓
September is the best month to do it
Have a goodnight Wayne.
You bet, my friend! Good night to you as well!
We have those trees here they grow like weeds and seem to break easily in the wind
Hey Mike! They do grow fast and abundantly. I have read that they can grow as much as 6 feet per year. And if you try controlling by cutting them down, you end up stimulating more growth in the understory. Herbicidal control has worked best for me.
Girdling? ouchewowa that's a major job there WP... guess that is done because if you cut it down, the roots just send out about a billion other ailanthus babies? Gotta say, that title was catchy for us to tune in to see what the heck you were doing with girdles! Have a good one and howdy to Suz the Q!. BTW, be safe out there with that firearm on your hip, dancing around the tree... 👍🏻🐶
That has to be the second-best girdling job I've ever seen "99". Actually, come to think of it I have never seen that done before. Up here when we want to kill a tree we cut its head off. Something we learned from the French back in the 1700s. Nice job though!
Haha! It seems like we tend to make things more complicated than they need to be! But if I had just cut it down, that would have made for an even more boring video!😂 So good to hear from you, Don! Stay well, stay kind!
That won’t do shit for a tree of heaven but make dozens upon dozens of more root suckers and sprouts pop up.
Well it’s been a year and still not sign of root sprouts. Letting them die on the stump is very effective. Actually, I would rather apply the triclopyr and not girdle the tree. Girdling is not necessary.
Any updates on that tree? I just did the basal method on a few trees over the weekend, which doesn't seem to me it would be effective, but we will see.
You have to be patient as the herbicide works. I assume you used some type of carrier like diesel fuel to allow the herbicide to cling and penetrate into the bark. That is key. Also, be sure to coat the entire trunk from the ground to about 20 inches up. The time of year is important as well. The months of July and August should be good months for treatment. I just basal coated several more Ailanthus trees a week ago and some are showing discoloring in the leaves, while others are not. If I don't see dead leaves after a month, I will go out and reapply the herbicide. I have had better results in the cold months of March and early April. Sorry for being long winded. I hope you have great success against the Tree of Heaven. Thanks for the feedback. Stay kind!
Can I girdle a tree of heaven in the winter to kill it?
You can girdle a tree any time of year as long as you make the cut deep enough to cut of the supply of nutrients provided by the inner bark or phloem layer. It’s safe to go about 1 inch into the tree to effectively girdle it.
Safety police...we all make choices we have to live with, risks versus rewards. You know what you should do but it's your choice...🧡🔥👍🏻👊🏼
Yeah. It's like the debate about whether you should use two hands on a top handle saw while in the canopy. The rule is good, but it can't always be applied, so you mitigate the risk in other ways. Good to hear from you Jeremy! Hope all is well with you and your family!