I think that they went with a different extruder and hotend for packaging reasons. The normal sprite would stick out to the front, where you would have plenty of space on a bedflinger, but thats not an option on a bed lifter, you would need a larger frame or limit your travel space. This also makes sense (smaller frame) since creality paid attention to keep everything within the frame, so you can bolt panels directly to the frame as enclosure and a smaller enclosure means higher ambient temperatures. Its also a pretty common fan duct design for such a printer, a different orientation would mean more space taken up by the tool head, the only other way would be mounting the fan over the x axis extrusion, but that would also be a loss of travel space
Good day About the printer paper in your box. This is due to limitations on the delivery side. They needed to extend the weight of the package to be shipped. This first occured on FLSun V400 and the reason is explained above.
This printer looks really good, but knowing Creality, a Plus version is coming soon so I will wait for that. Hopefully it will have the linear rods on both sides of the bed. Also, I wanted to thank you, I watched your stuff about the S1 and the S1 Pro and ended up getting the S1 Pro. I couldn't be happier! Thank you!
Great video! Like your quirky sense of huma' that you add in there. The grinding noise is a "dirty" bearing or a missing bearing ball. Majority of the cheaper linear bearing are sent with tons of machining debris. You don't notice the effect 'cause it's on the Z. Take it off, swirl it in alcohol, run a lint free rag through it, add l'un and you are off to the race again.
A 300c capable printer without enclosure. Its very hard to make a enclosure for Ender 5 series because of the top arrangement; motor etc. In 2022 no belt tensioners, buggy Creality firmwares, no dual Z for 500+ USD. I think P1P is great option for 200 more. If you want thinkering Sovol SV 5.
You mean no belt tensioning knobs? I don’t like them as they cause the belt to loosen more often than not. P1P seems to be a better buy. I would like to test one.
DONT MOVE ANY AXIS MANUALLY, spinning the drive motors at high speed creates electricty which feeds back to your main board and releases the magic smoke, confirmed on a mk 3 pro😞
I’ve done a ton of backdroving and never had an issue. That said, I do believe you. I’ve fried about 4 stepper drivers from unplugging the motors while the steppers were live
Nice video thanks. I ordered this machine today. If you lock your 3 main video camera settings then you won’t see those brightness changes after editing.
Yeah, autoexposure & autofocus can be a bit annoying at times, but I don’t have the mental bandwidth to deal with all that while filming. There are whole takes that are out of focus or too dark when I do too much manual stuff, but also happens with auto settings. Really I just need a cameraman 🎥 I always use the 50% shutter rule, so usually 1/60th shutter speed at 30fps I’m going to try using f/11 so autofocus is less of an issue and maybe then I’ll have enough mental energy to take on the exposure settings, which I guess would just be the ISO setting since I’m already doing shutter and aperture anyways.
I think I’ve got audio down pretty well now. Just using a wireless lav mic with no auto-gain settings. If I need to turn it up it’s much better to do it in post rather than letting the camera turn the gain way up whenever there is a silence
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, I just let my camera automatically set the 3 main settings and then I lock them in place. When I’m hunting I have to turn one of them down, I think it’s the fps.
Im after the Sovol SV05 Cubic but Sovel wont sell the SV-05 Cubic in the UK as they say we are not as interested in it as the rest of the world, they did this upon release, on the Ender 5 Plus/Pro FB group I belong to people are always complaining that they cant get the better Sovol machine, I hope they do their thing with the Ender 5 Plus as I am in need of a third Ender 5 Plus but will hold out for Soval to do their thing with it, if they dont sell this model in the UK I am visiting a friend in France next summer so will order to my friends address and bring it back, I will have to swap the delivery labels for the ones on one of my Ender 5 boxes though so I dont get taxed at the ferry port!
About the UK importing, since Brexit, the UK had to come up with their own electronics regulations. I think they are really missing out by not getting the certification sorted out, but I can see how having to do yet another round of certifications could be annoying for them.
Crunchy noise on mine is coming from the anti-backlash nut. I looked for the source for a while too and it seems to go away if I apply a little pressure to it with my finger. I may add some grease to that to see if it helps.
Thank you for a great review of the printer which I was looking for. Does this come with software that can be used on a computer?? Also what will you do to the bed to be able to remove the part easier?
Someday, you might get a coreXY design and the accelerations will startle you with how violent they can be. Some of the travel moves are so fast that you can print with wet filament because it doesn't have time to ooze. However, I think your art form is the comedy of low end printers so that might hurt your content. :P
I’ve heard them running, sounds like they are trying to rattle themselves apart! I want to get a corexy but I’m cheap and a company hasn’t offered to send one yet. Those cheap bastards... I’m supposed to be the cheap bastard in this relationship!
Nathan I received my Ender 5 S1 a few days ago and I, too, am seeing the same layer oddity you did. Were you able to resolve the issue after the review video was completed?
Well shoot. We'll searching for my 1st 3d printer I bought this and before they shipped it I changed my mind and went with the ender 3 s1 pro.... this video was not out at the time.
In another video of yours about the Ender 3 S1 PRO i commented that i was one click away from buying that, but then i decided to buy 5 S1, which will have been delivered to me by mid January. I would like to ask if you know anything about octoprint support for this model. I did not find any useful information in google search.
Great video! Tons of information, and very well presented. I'm 1 step closer to deciding what printer to buy...I really do thing it'll be the Ender 5. Thanks for this. Keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful! BTW geekbuying just came through with a great deal for the Ender 5 S1. $459 after coupon code: NNNCREEND5S1 Link: affiliate.geekbuying.com/deeplink.php?affid=3580&url=www.geekbuying.com/item/Creality-Ender-5-S1-3D-Printer-250mm-s-300-Celsius-Degrees-Printing-519509.html However, keep an eye out for other printers and narrow it down to your needs. The Ender 5 is very much a project printer IMO, but it's a lot of fun to fix up and get working.
That’s a huge redo of the Ender 5. Nearly every part is different x - the extrusions, kinematics, hotend, display, etc. it’s almost a different printer save for the print volume.
As someone about to pull the trigger having never had one, would you recommend this one? Money isn’t a concern. I don’t want to go to $1k cause I’m also getting a resin printer. But I want to get an FDM so my wife can make crafts. You seem to know so much. Would love your thought!
My favorite FDM printer is the artillery sidewinder X2. You get a lot for the $$$, it has a huge print area, is easy to put together, and it prints decently fast. Make sure you have enough space for it though! th-cam.com/video/5tjE3QAOkWc/w-d-xo.html I view the Ender 3 and Ender 5 as more of a project printer. Great if you want to spend time working on it and upgrading it because there are a bunch of aftermarket parts available for it. After investing about $250 in upgrades and about 4 hours upgrading my Ender 5 S1, it’s an absolutely awesome machine. But not everyone wants the printer to be the hobby, they want to use it to do other hobbies 😁
I have no experience with the older printers, but from what I can tell, this is much nicer due to the direct drive extruder and silent stepper drivers..
Great review as usual Nathan, even had a little bop to the piano music. Are your break out boards available for international export yet, still trying to solve my fan problem on my Ender 3 Pro?
Sweet video, first time seeing your stuff. I also got the printer. I however have an issue with the ABL which tries to ram my nozzle into my bed if I use it. Creality claims it's a firmware issue instead of a bonk machine but I guess we will see.
That is annoying. I would insist they send you a new board. Companies often claim its a firmware issue because then they don't have to spend money to actually fix the problem.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah I have been going back and forth with their tech support and they are like, "hey just don't use the auto leveling." At this point I told them that I want a replacement if I don't have a firmware fix soon
My first printer is a cr-10s pro, i really want to take a new one with a xy cores because they so incredible, but it hard to chose, there always a problem, like flow rate. Would you recommand buying this instead of an ender 6 ???
The Ender 6 and 7 didn't get great reviews. I haven't tried them personally, but based on what other people have seen, I would say the Ender 5 S1 is currently the best offering from Creality.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would prefer the new one, as the normal sprite hotend has certain disadvantages as the size, as it's much longer on the front and would hit the front bar on the ender 5.
@@MrKiebitz interesting, I do not know if a place to buy spare right now, but keep an eye out and try asking the discord. A lot of ppl post designs there
I don't suppose you bought the 'upgrade' items by chance? I just made a purchase for one of these with those items and was wondering if you had some thoughts on them. Great Channel. I've been watching your stuff all day.
You are correct. Clamping force is probably about 20 lbs per wheel, gravity is about 2 lbs. But in the absence of real numbers, I just included the largest forces.
$500 for a printer and within 2 min of actually using it, you want/have to change fans. That's the CREALITY motto "we sell you s**t and you'll keep buying it" No thank you, I can get a Anycubic Kobra MAX for that price....
I have the ender 3 v2 with every upgrade done to it that you could think of and I am looking to get another printer and my eyes are on this ender 5 s1, would this be a great edition? Or should I look for something different in this price range?
careful with the bed, not only does that surface stick too well, but the temptation to just push it down a little to make it easier to get at just wrekcs bed level, mine is almost never right
Hi. I want to buy this printer as a first 3D printer. What do you think about additional accessories? Or enough everything in the box? Also what do you think about Creality Sonic Pad? Is it useful with this printer or not?
As a first printer I would recommend the Trinity crux or artillery sidewinder. You can get those very cheap, $170 for the crux, $250 for the sidewinder x2 if you check the links in my dedicated videos on those printers. The S1 has some firmware problems that I would really like to see creality address with regard to automatic bed leveling
But to answer your original question, this thing is quite good out of the box, no need for additional accessories until you print with it for a while and see what you want to change on it
The 3 wheel vs 4 wheel explanation does not make sense. Sure, if both bottom wheels and both top wheels would be exactly aligned, then you'll be spreading the pressure at the bottom over both of those wheels, but the majority of that pressure is coming from you tensioning both of them against the beam, so that is also doubled. The real problem with 4 wheels is the fact that they can be misaligned. Having 1 wheel at the bottom center will only allow you to get the tension wrong, but if you tension it enough, it will pull the carriage flat onto the beam. With 4 wheels you can tension 1 of the bottom wheels less than the other, which can cause instability in the carriage. It's a bit like mounting a flat surface (like a bed) at 4 points, while everyone knows that 3 points define a plane and that hence adding a 4th just causes the risk of not having one of them in the exact same plane as the other 3 and then curving what should have been a flat surface.
With 4 it is a "statically indeterminate structure" But this kind of thing is common. You can get it close enough by hand if you know what to look for. But it does open the door for error. You could just tension one of the wheels and leave the other loose if you wanted 3 wheels! Should cars have 4 wheels instead of 3? The 4th wheel makes it nearly impossible to PERFECTLY align all 4 wheels. But it has benefits in weight distribution and handling.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The drawback when only tensioning one of the 2 bottom wheels is that it is no longer in the center between the 2 top ones. I stand with my believe that 3 wheels here is better than 4. With a car you have an additional dimension which plays a role, but that does not hold for these rollers. And sure, 4 wheels will work fine as the wheels allow some flex, but you'll end up with uneven distribution of pressure over the wheels and hence some wearing out more than the others and there really isn't much benefit in adding that additional wheel, just more complexity.
Glad you mentioned this. It should be 3 wheels, and the fact that it's 4 calls into question the sanity of the design. I wish reviews were more critical.
Its some kind of DIY Cross-gantry miini printer. Its one of the fastest machines I've seen. www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/hr35fz/crossed_gantry_design/
Personally, I prefer this. P1P is mechanically excellent but completely unservicable and unrepairable. I would take servicable design over a high performance design any day of the week, because this will last forever. The Bambulabs printer will end up in a landfill in 2 years guaranteed.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for confirming my thoughts as well you are the only reviewer explaining this issue. Are you going to review ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro?
Which printer would you recommend for first timers? Like, if you had to choose one with the knowledge you have now, yet was starting out again, which would you get? :) I'm willing to invest, just want to make sure we get something worthwhile!
I would get the Artillery Sidewinder X2. Cheap entry point (only about $250), huge print volume, all the features that you would want, good firmware. I did a video on it: th-cam.com/video/5tjE3QAOkWc/w-d-xo.html If you want to pay more it might be worth looking into the Bambulabs printer. If you like modding, the Ender 3 V2 is pretty good, albiet overpriced compared to the sidewinder X2.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Wow, what a great vid you made for the X2! It's fast, quiet, big, has good cooling and power consumption, doesn't look like too much to get going-- Before I was considering getting a Creality CR-10s and modding it as suggested in another vid, but I think I'll suggest we get this one instead! I'll look into Bambulabs too, but I feel quite good about the X2. 😁 Thank you for the help! Much appreciated. ✨
Yes, pretty much any printer can print carbon fiber reinforced plastic. A steel nozzle is recommended. The best cfrp is high temperature nylon (300 c) That stuff is super strong and will also require an all metal heat break (which this has)
@@NathanBuildsRobots compared to ender 3 or CR 10, how is the precision of prints? Ender 3 and cr 10 have different construction and drive mechanism, is it better than that of ender 5 s1? Thanks
This video is pretty outdated at this point. It was a good stop-gap printer but now that there are dozens of cheap Corexy machines for under $400, those are probably a better buy
its an id10t error not the bed surface. It has to cool and then its magnetic so you can take it off and flex it and prints pop right off. When prints finish on my printer i take the magnetic plate off and put it on top of my washer machine lid and it 10 to 20 seconds it allows my print to pop right off. You boasted about reviewing tons of these machines, but this is the first video I've ever watched of yours (last also) and it's like you have never 3d printed before.
I’d just like to add that Klipper is the future of 3D printing, and the future is upon us. Also, 4D and beyond is coming hot on the heels of Klipper. So that’s something to try to focus on more than what companies are doing to keep churning out variations on the Anet A8. BIQU is on the cusp, I think, so that’s where the action and the best ride/profit is.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I disagree. The pad allows a larger screen and will be able to run multiple printers. The pads release does not mean their future release can't/won't have klipper rather than marlin, it just means you can easily convert your existing line up and do so easily and cheaper than a Pi. The pad is a awesome new tool that will be hard to be to switch to klipper.
@@NathanBuildsRobots believe it or not a 5k snap on OBD scanner has the same thing. Same with Autel. It's just industry standard for tool type tablets it seems. I guess because scratches are better than cracks. I plan to put a screen protector over mine immediately even just a universal one wi help. That and a stylus.
I just bought a ender 5 s1 too,but I met a problem, after I manual leveling,I run the auto leveling,but my printer always delete my manual leveling position. after auto leveling the nozzle always away 1mm from the bed I guess. Now I just use manual leveling like old printer, I have no idea why I cannot using auto leveling, I already follow all the operations😢 Do you have any suggestions 🥺
Yeah my Ender 5 S1 is having issues using the mesh bed leveling data in Klipper. Firmware could definitely use some work. Hopefully my issue isn't a hardware problem, which it may well be.
Have you tried using the save config option in the menu? I think the Z should save automatically but just in case it would be worth looking for an option to save config in the menus
@@NathanBuildsRobots I think I got the point 🤔 Maybe I should change z level in aux leveling first,and then use auto leveling? This is my first time using have auto leveling's printer 😅
Did you really complain that the print has to home? That's normal procedure lmao. The bigger the printer the longer the movements. That's not a good complaint.
It’s not that it has to home, all printers do that, but about the time required to home is excessive. Takes about 3 minutes compared to any other printer - like the ender 3 or artillery sidewinder, which typically takes about 10 seconds to home.
@@NathanBuildsRobots slower is more accurate to so degree. Granted while not a factory feature if you configure your own marlin you can speed it up. Something I feel many will do when they custom flash it.
IMO its by far the WORST printer they've ever made... Twisted x-axis on a large majority of peoples printers, auto bed levelling with Sonic Pad is completely broken because the levelling probe misses the bed entirely so you can't complete it, frame is out of square from the factory by several millimetres so you need to pull the top and bottom frames apart and re-assemble. I made the mistake of buying several to fill out my farm, same issues with every single one. I now own 3 big paper weights and a dodgy sonic pad. To add insult to injury Creality wants me to pay for not only shipping back to them but also for the free shipping to originally send them to me when I bought them! Absolute joke of company.
If you want some help there are a lot of Ender 5 users on my discord. Sounds like you have the frame issues sorted, last thing you’ll need to do is fix the printer config file in klipper. It’s a pretty quick operation, but I agree all of that should be sorted out by creality, not pushed onto the customer at the end
The big advantage of this over a Bambulabs printer is moddability. I'm going to have some fun with this printer, but if you just want to unbox and start printing, Bambulabs is hard to beat.
I would rather go with an ender + klipper than all proprietary bambu lab. Maybe it won't be as fast as Bambu but it's much more fun building it the way you want
Yeah, I heard they were going to fix that. Unsure if it still behaves this way with the latest firmware. It homes at the top with the Sonic Pad, but the stock firmware should do it that way as well!
I think its ok. Right now we have 2 options at this price point: Somewhat Moddable Ender 5 S1 Very fast Bambulabs P1P I am reviewing the P1P now, It is good, but not the miracle printer that a lot of people have said it is. Great hardware design, but the departure from a highly moddable platform based on open-source hardware, like the Ender 3,5, etc. has advantages as well.
@@NathanBuildsRobots wish it cam with an enclosure for it but nice to see its closer to making it possible to enclose. But still the overhanging xmotor
Lmfao when you say creakily is fixing the firmware homing issue cuz they didn’t even the wonder 3 v2 firmware yet and it’s been out for years. Creality never fixing shit.
They actually did fix it, the latest ones don’t have the z switch on the bottom. What issues are in the Ender 3 v2? I switched mine over to klipper a while ago
@@NathanBuildsRobots they probably should source their aluminum extrusion from someone else. I have had 2 ender 3 V2 both x axis are skewed. Now I have the ender 5 S1, X axis still skewed.
@@NathanBuildsRobots magnificent! Thanks! During my search I found a sweet guide on making a custom slicer profile for it if you’d like me to send it to you
You should print a large sign that says "It's Okay to Dance" and hang it on your wall as your version of "Live, Laugh, Love." 😂
I have been curating stuff for my brick wall. I like the gas mask and laser cut logo.
I also need a sign that says “This is home” in cursive
@@NathanBuildsRobots Why not " There's nothing like 0,0,0" or "There's nothing like X0 Y0 Z0"
@@KensCounselingCouch Love it,
"There's no place like G28"
wow! That was fast! You were just talking about doing this video yesterday! You're a video uploading machine! Go Nathan, Go!
I think that they went with a different extruder and hotend for packaging reasons. The normal sprite would stick out to the front, where you would have plenty of space on a bedflinger, but thats not an option on a bed lifter, you would need a larger frame or limit your travel space. This also makes sense (smaller frame) since creality paid attention to keep everything within the frame, so you can bolt panels directly to the frame as enclosure and a smaller enclosure means higher ambient temperatures. Its also a pretty common fan duct design for such a printer, a different orientation would mean more space taken up by the tool head, the only other way would be mounting the fan over the x axis extrusion, but that would also be a loss of travel space
Good day
About the printer paper in your box. This is due to limitations on the delivery side. They needed to extend the weight of the package to be shipped.
This first occured on FLSun V400 and the reason is explained above.
This printer looks really good, but knowing Creality, a Plus version is coming soon so I will wait for that. Hopefully it will have the linear rods on both sides of the bed. Also, I wanted to thank you, I watched your stuff about the S1 and the S1 Pro and ended up getting the S1 Pro. I couldn't be happier! Thank you!
Yes I am waiting for the Ender 5 S1 Plus Pro Neo Star Dust Big Bang 3.0
wish i waited for the s1 pro....
Ender-5 S1 plus will come out late until mid 2023 as I heard from Creality
Then a Pro version, then a V2, then a Neo. Creality really needs to calm down.
@@photonier I hope they have a larger Bambu Labs P1P by then.
Great video! Like your quirky sense of huma' that you add in there. The grinding noise is a "dirty" bearing or a missing bearing ball. Majority of the cheaper linear bearing are sent with tons of machining debris. You don't notice the effect 'cause it's on the Z. Take it off, swirl it in alcohol, run a lint free rag through it, add l'un and you are off to the race again.
What’s, add I ‘un?
A 300c capable printer without enclosure. Its very hard to make a enclosure for Ender 5 series because of the top arrangement; motor etc.
In 2022 no belt tensioners, buggy Creality firmwares, no dual Z for 500+ USD.
I think P1P is great option for 200 more. If you want thinkering Sovol SV 5.
You mean no belt tensioning knobs? I don’t like them as they cause the belt to loosen more often than not.
P1P seems to be a better buy. I would like to test one.
Yeah, I really like the 5 S1. I have some upgrades in mind myself. Mostly has to do with the fans.... Grerqat video brother!
DONT MOVE ANY AXIS MANUALLY, spinning the drive motors at high speed creates electricty which feeds back to your main board and releases the magic smoke, confirmed on a mk 3 pro😞
I’ve done a ton of backdroving and never had an issue. That said, I do believe you.
I’ve fried about 4 stepper drivers from unplugging the motors while the steppers were live
The base fan noise is probably the power supply fan. I've not found many that shutoff the fan if it's running cool.
Meanwell power supplies do this. Unfortunately Creality started using their own branded PSUs.
Nice video thanks. I ordered this machine today. If you lock your 3 main video camera settings then you won’t see those brightness changes after editing.
Yeah, autoexposure & autofocus can be a bit annoying at times, but I don’t have the mental bandwidth to deal with all that while filming.
There are whole takes that are out of focus or too dark when I do too much manual stuff, but also happens with auto settings. Really I just need a cameraman 🎥
I always use the 50% shutter rule, so usually 1/60th shutter speed at 30fps
I’m going to try using f/11 so autofocus is less of an issue and maybe then I’ll have enough mental energy to take on the exposure settings, which I guess would just be the ISO setting since I’m already doing shutter and aperture anyways.
I think I’ve got audio down pretty well now. Just using a wireless lav mic with no auto-gain settings. If I need to turn it up it’s much better to do it in post rather than letting the camera turn the gain way up whenever there is a silence
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, I just let my camera automatically set the 3 main settings and then I lock them in place. When I’m hunting I have to turn one of them down, I think it’s the fps.
Im after the Sovol SV05 Cubic but Sovel wont sell the SV-05 Cubic in the UK as they say we are not as interested in it as the rest of the world, they did this upon release, on the Ender 5 Plus/Pro FB group I belong to people are always complaining that they cant get the better Sovol machine, I hope they do their thing with the Ender 5 Plus as I am in need of a third Ender 5 Plus but will hold out for Soval to do their thing with it, if they dont sell this model in the UK I am visiting a friend in France next summer so will order to my friends address and bring it back, I will have to swap the delivery labels for the ones on one of my Ender 5 boxes though so I dont get taxed at the ferry port!
I want an Ender 5 S1 Plus, or a Soval equivalent. I think that would be a fantastic machine.
About the UK importing, since Brexit, the UK had to come up with their own electronics regulations. I think they are really missing out by not getting the certification sorted out, but I can see how having to do yet another round of certifications could be annoying for them.
love how thorough you are. wish you would put a volcano on a belt printer next
If someone sends me a belt printer I’ll definitely try it out!
Crunchy noise on mine is coming from the anti-backlash nut. I looked for the source for a while too and it seems to go away if I apply a little pressure to it with my finger. I may add some grease to that to see if it helps.
wondering if you could deal with noise trouble and your findings..
Good video, hope to see the Neptune 3 Pro review as well!
I asked Elegoo for one but they gave me the "oh, we are all out of those right now, can you review some of these old $100 printers instead?"
Thank you for a great review of the printer which I was looking for. Does this come with software that can be used on a computer??
Also what will you do to the bed to be able to remove the part easier?
Someday, you might get a coreXY design and the accelerations will startle you with how violent they can be. Some of the travel moves are so fast that you can print with wet filament because it doesn't have time to ooze. However, I think your art form is the comedy of low end printers so that might hurt your content. :P
I’ve heard them running, sounds like they are trying to rattle themselves apart!
I want to get a corexy but I’m cheap and a company hasn’t offered to send one yet. Those cheap bastards... I’m supposed to be the cheap bastard in this relationship!
subbing for insanely high speed print videos with this.
keep your promise sir :)
Me as well
Nathan I received my Ender 5 S1 a few days ago and I, too, am seeing the same layer oddity you did. Were you able to resolve the issue after the review video was completed?
Well shoot. We'll searching for my 1st 3d printer I bought this and before they shipped it I changed my mind and went with the ender 3 s1 pro.... this video was not out at the time.
In another video of yours about the Ender 3 S1 PRO i commented that i was one click away from buying that, but then i decided to buy 5 S1, which will have been delivered to me by mid January. I would like to ask if you know anything about octoprint support for this model. I did not find any useful information in google search.
Great video! Tons of information, and very well presented. I'm 1 step closer to deciding what printer to buy...I really do thing it'll be the Ender 5. Thanks for this. Keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful! BTW geekbuying just came through with a great deal for the Ender 5 S1.
$459 after coupon code: NNNCREEND5S1
Link: affiliate.geekbuying.com/deeplink.php?affid=3580&url=www.geekbuying.com/item/Creality-Ender-5-S1-3D-Printer-250mm-s-300-Celsius-Degrees-Printing-519509.html
However, keep an eye out for other printers and narrow it down to your needs. The Ender 5 is very much a project printer IMO, but it's a lot of fun to fix up and get working.
A great video and I can't wait for my modder board. I'm thinking BMG extruder and Triangle Labs new hotend.
The nozzle is the one for the Spider Hotend used on the Ender 7.
That’s a huge redo of the Ender 5. Nearly every part is different x - the extrusions, kinematics, hotend, display, etc. it’s almost a different printer save for the print volume.
New to printing, i found the same bed dip in the E5S1 I've been working with
As someone about to pull the trigger having never had one, would you recommend this one? Money isn’t a concern. I don’t want to go to $1k cause I’m also getting a resin printer. But I want to get an FDM so my wife can make crafts. You seem to know so much. Would love your thought!
My favorite FDM printer is the artillery sidewinder X2. You get a lot for the $$$, it has a huge print area, is easy to put together, and it prints decently fast. Make sure you have enough space for it though!
th-cam.com/video/5tjE3QAOkWc/w-d-xo.html
I view the Ender 3 and Ender 5 as more of a project printer. Great if you want to spend time working on it and upgrading it because there are a bunch of aftermarket parts available for it. After investing about $250 in upgrades and about 4 hours upgrading my Ender 5 S1, it’s an absolutely awesome machine. But not everyone wants the printer to be the hobby, they want to use it to do other hobbies 😁
Do you think there is a big step-up from the ender 5 / ender 5 pro to the ender 5 s1? It is after all double the price...
I have no experience with the older printers, but from what I can tell, this is much nicer due to the direct drive extruder and silent stepper drivers..
Great video!! Thanks for your time and effort! What was the printer at 17:12?!! Was that in real time?? 🤯
Yes it was! It was some sort of Cross gantry mini-printer that I saw at East Coast Rep-Rap Festival.
Great review as usual Nathan, even had a little bop to the piano music. Are your break out boards available for international export yet, still trying to solve my fan problem on my Ender 3 Pro?
Yes they are. I should be able to ship them out next week. They are in customs right now, really hoping that's not a pain to deal with.
Sweet video, first time seeing your stuff. I also got the printer. I however have an issue with the ABL which tries to ram my nozzle into my bed if I use it. Creality claims it's a firmware issue instead of a bonk machine but I guess we will see.
That is annoying. I would insist they send you a new board. Companies often claim its a firmware issue because then they don't have to spend money to actually fix the problem.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah I have been going back and forth with their tech support and they are like, "hey just don't use the auto leveling."
At this point I told them that I want a replacement if I don't have a firmware fix soon
Do you still recommend this + Creality Sonic Pad over Ender 3 V3 or Bambu A1?
My first printer is a cr-10s pro, i really want to take a new one with a xy cores because they so incredible, but it hard to chose, there always a problem, like flow rate. Would you recommand buying this instead of an ender 6 ???
The Ender 6 and 7 didn't get great reviews. I haven't tried them personally, but based on what other people have seen, I would say the Ender 5 S1 is currently the best offering from Creality.
I think it would be great if the print head would be sold separately to upgrade the older ender 5s.
Could you just install the normal sprite hotend?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would prefer the new one, as the normal sprite hotend has certain disadvantages as the size, as it's much longer on the front and would hit the front bar on the ender 5.
@@MrKiebitz interesting, I do not know if a place to buy spare right now, but keep an eye out and try asking the discord. A lot of ppl post designs there
I can get this for 280 brand new. Sonic pad is another 100. Worth it or just go with Bambu P1S?
Now i want a Ender5 s1 plus
I think it slots in nicely beneath the new bambulabs machine. Hopefully it stays at the sale price around $500
@@NathanBuildsRobots i like my S1 very much i just need en bitt bigger print volume
I don't suppose you bought the 'upgrade' items by chance? I just made a purchase for one of these with those items and was wondering if you had some thoughts on them.
Great Channel. I've been watching your stuff all day.
I think you forgot about gravity on your free body diagrams.
You are correct. Clamping force is probably about 20 lbs per wheel, gravity is about 2 lbs. But in the absence of real numbers, I just included the largest forces.
It's wired that they didn't set the switch's on top of the machine. That'll have made everything much faster
Yes at least use the cr touch as the z axis limit switch. The ender 3 S1 does this.
Lubricate that linear bearing it sounds dry
Yeha I will, I use wax based lubricant designed for bicycle chains, works great.
$500 for a printer and within 2 min of actually using it, you want/have to change fans. That's the CREALITY motto "we sell you s**t and you'll keep buying it"
No thank you, I can get a Anycubic Kobra MAX for that price....
Having to wait 2 mins to home the z-axis is classic Creality. 😂
It’s a lot faster on the sonic pad, but that is $200
The latest firmware may have fixed it, that is just a hope, idk if they’ve actually done it
I have the ender 3 v2 with every upgrade done to it that you could think of and I am looking to get another printer and my eyes are on this ender 5 s1, would this be a great edition? Or should I look for something different in this price range?
careful with the bed, not only does that surface stick too well, but the temptation to just push it down a little to make it easier to get at just wrekcs bed level, mine is almost never right
Interesting, I’ll be putting a PEI sheet on soon
What printer would you recommend for jewelry? Great vid, Thanks
Virtually any printer would work for that. The P1P would crank out some jewelry and with a AMS, you could do multi material/multi-color designs
Just got this printer and my is not sticking at all … any tips ?
I would try bed leveling and using some good PLA
Looks great but i will wait for the ender 5 s1 pro or plus , i bet they will release one soon
There will always be a newer model coming out - maybe and Ender 8.
Another great video! I would like to see more stuff that's not Creality though.
I have some stuff in the works, should be getting a Sovol SV-06
@@NathanBuildsRobots The SV06 seems like a good value. Keep up the good work!
Hi. I want to buy this printer as a first 3D printer. What do you think about additional accessories? Or enough everything in the box? Also what do you think about Creality Sonic Pad? Is it useful with this printer or not?
As a first printer I would recommend the Trinity crux or artillery sidewinder. You can get those very cheap, $170 for the crux, $250 for the sidewinder x2 if you check the links in my dedicated videos on those printers. The S1 has some firmware problems that I would really like to see creality address with regard to automatic bed leveling
But to answer your original question, this thing is quite good out of the box, no need for additional accessories until you print with it for a while and see what you want to change on it
Creality really trolled you with that printer paper lol
The 3 wheel vs 4 wheel explanation does not make sense. Sure, if both bottom wheels and both top wheels would be exactly aligned, then you'll be spreading the pressure at the bottom over both of those wheels, but the majority of that pressure is coming from you tensioning both of them against the beam, so that is also doubled. The real problem with 4 wheels is the fact that they can be misaligned. Having 1 wheel at the bottom center will only allow you to get the tension wrong, but if you tension it enough, it will pull the carriage flat onto the beam. With 4 wheels you can tension 1 of the bottom wheels less than the other, which can cause instability in the carriage. It's a bit like mounting a flat surface (like a bed) at 4 points, while everyone knows that 3 points define a plane and that hence adding a 4th just causes the risk of not having one of them in the exact same plane as the other 3 and then curving what should have been a flat surface.
With 4 it is a "statically indeterminate structure" But this kind of thing is common. You can get it close enough by hand if you know what to look for. But it does open the door for error. You could just tension one of the wheels and leave the other loose if you wanted 3 wheels!
Should cars have 4 wheels instead of 3? The 4th wheel makes it nearly impossible to PERFECTLY align all 4 wheels. But it has benefits in weight distribution and handling.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The drawback when only tensioning one of the 2 bottom wheels is that it is no longer in the center between the 2 top ones. I stand with my believe that 3 wheels here is better than 4. With a car you have an additional dimension which plays a role, but that does not hold for these rollers. And sure, 4 wheels will work fine as the wheels allow some flex, but you'll end up with uneven distribution of pressure over the wheels and hence some wearing out more than the others and there really isn't much benefit in adding that additional wheel, just more complexity.
Glad you mentioned this. It should be 3 wheels, and the fact that it's 4 calls into question the sanity of the design. I wish reviews were more critical.
what is that astonishing printer at 17:12? it looks quite fun to look into
Its some kind of DIY Cross-gantry miini printer. Its one of the fastest machines I've seen.
www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/hr35fz/crossed_gantry_design/
Great video! Can you replace the hotend with a Creality Engraver/Cutter?
Cool! Thanks.
GREASE THEM POLES UP!
Ok, will apply the boron nitride paste 🙃
Nathan did Creality fix that bed leveling wait?
Not yet, I’m working on a fix though. Should be out in a couple weeks, if you join the discord you can help with development
Going to try a 0 Y offset cr touch mount
What solution do you recommend so I can use a hardened nozzle? So hard to find a nozzle to fit my Ender 5 S1
Which do you prefer this or P1P?
Personally, I prefer this. P1P is mechanically excellent but completely unservicable and unrepairable. I would take servicable design over a high performance design any day of the week, because this will last forever. The Bambulabs printer will end up in a landfill in 2 years guaranteed.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for confirming my thoughts as well you are the only reviewer explaining this issue. Are you going to review ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro?
Probably not. Elegoo have not offered to send me anything but their least expensive printers.
Is it open or close source?
Pre order is due to be shipped when??
They are in customs right now, best case I’ll start shipping them out on Tuesday
Which printer would you recommend for first timers?
Like, if you had to choose one with the knowledge you have now, yet was starting out again, which would you get? :)
I'm willing to invest, just want to make sure we get something worthwhile!
I would get the Artillery Sidewinder X2. Cheap entry point (only about $250), huge print volume, all the features that you would want, good firmware. I did a video on it:
th-cam.com/video/5tjE3QAOkWc/w-d-xo.html
If you want to pay more it might be worth looking into the Bambulabs printer.
If you like modding, the Ender 3 V2 is pretty good, albiet overpriced compared to the sidewinder X2.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Wow, what a great vid you made for the X2! It's fast, quiet, big, has good cooling and power consumption, doesn't look like too much to get going-- Before I was considering getting a Creality CR-10s and modding it as suggested in another vid, but I think I'll suggest we get this one instead! I'll look into Bambulabs too, but I feel quite good about the X2. 😁
Thank you for the help! Much appreciated. ✨
@@NathanBuildsRobots $250 seems very low, $400 is about right from what I have seen.
check the video I liked to, then click the link. The reseller I have been working with has been selling them for around $270 which is an amazing deal
Can you print Carbon fiber with Ender 5 s1?
Yes, pretty much any printer can print carbon fiber reinforced plastic. A steel nozzle is recommended.
The best cfrp is high temperature nylon (300 c)
That stuff is super strong and will also require an all metal heat break (which this has)
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you Nathan 🙏
@@NathanBuildsRobots compared to ender 3 or CR 10, how is the precision of prints? Ender 3 and cr 10 have different construction and drive mechanism, is it better than that of ender 5 s1? Thanks
You should sell that and get a p1p. It’s better.
Hmmm, other reviewers are saying this printer makes no sense in the market.
This video is pretty outdated at this point. It was a good stop-gap printer but now that there are dozens of cheap Corexy machines for under $400, those are probably a better buy
its an id10t error not the bed surface. It has to cool and then its magnetic so you can take it off and flex it and prints pop right off. When prints finish on my printer i take the magnetic plate off and put it on top of my washer machine lid and it 10 to 20 seconds it allows my print to pop right off. You boasted about reviewing tons of these machines, but this is the first video I've ever watched of yours (last also) and it's like you have never 3d printed before.
Lol I like that ID10T… error exist between user’s ears.
Yeah it helps to let it cool off.
I hope you succeed big bro :-)
I’d just like to add that Klipper is the future of 3D printing, and the future is upon us. Also, 4D and beyond is coming hot on the heels of Klipper. So that’s something to try to focus on more than what companies are doing to keep churning out variations on the Anet A8. BIQU is on the cusp, I think, so that’s where the action and the best ride/profit is.
Yeah, Creality really needs to build it into the instead of this pad. Should have called it the sonic band-aid
@@NathanBuildsRobots I disagree. The pad allows a larger screen and will be able to run multiple printers. The pads release does not mean their future release can't/won't have klipper rather than marlin, it just means you can easily convert your existing line up and do so easily and cheaper than a Pi. The pad is a awesome new tool that will be hard to be to switch to klipper.
Marlin is still adding features and updating. Klipper for sure has some nice features that marlin does not have yet but marlin will catch up
@@brandonbrown3600 I’ve been testing the pad and my screen is already scratched up. It’s a glossy plastic instead of glass for the touch surface :(
@@NathanBuildsRobots believe it or not a 5k snap on OBD scanner has the same thing. Same with Autel. It's just industry standard for tool type tablets it seems. I guess because scratches are better than cracks. I plan to put a screen protector over mine immediately even just a universal one wi help. That and a stylus.
That poor printer you threw. Donate all your old crealitys to me. Ill promise to mod them and snip them😂 your favorite
Also im super interested in a modder board v2 when i have the cash. I made a patreon just to support this channel😂 keep up the great work brother
I just bought a ender 5 s1 too,but I met a problem, after I manual leveling,I run the auto leveling,but my printer always delete my manual leveling position.
after auto leveling the nozzle always away 1mm from the bed I guess.
Now I just use manual leveling like old printer, I have no idea why I cannot using auto leveling, I already follow all the operations😢
Do you have any suggestions 🥺
Yeah my Ender 5 S1 is having issues using the mesh bed leveling data in Klipper. Firmware could definitely use some work. Hopefully my issue isn't a hardware problem, which it may well be.
Have you tried using the save config option in the menu? I think the Z should save automatically but just in case it would be worth looking for an option to save config in the menus
I already checked printer, but there was no save config, there was only aux leveling and auto leveling .
Or was you mean the change z level button ?
@@willyliu2444 mine saves the z adjustments, so I'm not sure why yours would be doing that!
@@NathanBuildsRobots I think I got the point 🤔
Maybe I should change z level in aux leveling first,and then use auto leveling?
This is my first time using have auto leveling's printer 😅
Thanks, I will be buying this printer over other 3d printers, and probably build an enclosure for it.
LOL, creality trolled you hard.
How did they troll me though?
The paper for the printer. Classic.
Ничего не понимаю по Английски, но настолько понятны жесты и движения), я предельно для себя всё понял)), спасибо).
Is it a real core y?????
I've had nothing but problems since I got it. E06, E07 FAULTS
I would reach out to creality or your reseller and ask for a new mainboard or a refund.
@Nathan Builds Robots I baught presale also waited 1 month longer then expected to get
Also I did and they send me something to write in on SD card and download. I hope they know I am not a code writer, reader lol
I think your sticking too much due to beinf too close to the plate on the first level
Did you really complain that the print has to home? That's normal procedure lmao. The bigger the printer the longer the movements. That's not a good complaint.
It’s not that it has to home, all printers do that, but about the time required to home is excessive. Takes about 3 minutes compared to any other printer - like the ender 3 or artillery sidewinder, which typically takes about 10 seconds to home.
@@NathanBuildsRobots slower is more accurate to so degree. Granted while not a factory feature if you configure your own marlin you can speed it up. Something I feel many will do when they custom flash it.
Geez.... I'll buy the place instead.
IMO its by far the WORST printer they've ever made... Twisted x-axis on a large majority of peoples printers, auto bed levelling with Sonic Pad is completely broken because the levelling probe misses the bed entirely so you can't complete it, frame is out of square from the factory by several millimetres so you need to pull the top and bottom frames apart and re-assemble. I made the mistake of buying several to fill out my farm, same issues with every single one. I now own 3 big paper weights and a dodgy sonic pad. To add insult to injury Creality wants me to pay for not only shipping back to them but also for the free shipping to originally send them to me when I bought them! Absolute joke of company.
If you want some help there are a lot of Ender 5 users on my discord.
Sounds like you have the frame issues sorted, last thing you’ll need to do is fix the printer config file in klipper. It’s a pretty quick operation, but I agree all of that should be sorted out by creality, not pushed onto the customer at the end
Yeah too little too late, this thing is a dinosaur in 2022 with printers like the Bambu Labs P1P on the market...
The big advantage of this over a Bambulabs printer is moddability. I'm going to have some fun with this printer, but if you just want to unbox and start printing, Bambulabs is hard to beat.
I would rather go with an ender + klipper than all proprietary bambu lab. Maybe it won't be as fast as Bambu but it's much more fun building it the way you want
People still buy Ender 3s
Why tf does it home at the bottom? Thats no good
Yeah, I heard they were going to fix that. Unsure if it still behaves this way with the latest firmware.
It homes at the top with the Sonic Pad, but the stock firmware should do it that way as well!
So .... Is it a too little and too late? ...as asked in your title to this video.
I think its ok. Right now we have 2 options at this price point:
Somewhat Moddable Ender 5 S1
Very fast Bambulabs P1P
I am reviewing the P1P now, It is good, but not the miracle printer that a lot of people have said it is. Great hardware design, but the departure from a highly moddable platform based on open-source hardware, like the Ender 3,5, etc. has advantages as well.
About the bearings…..lubrication will cost money and in china lubrication is overrated!
the bed. is too small
yes too little too late
Wish they would have come out with this a year ago.
@@NathanBuildsRobots wish it cam with an enclosure for it but nice to see its closer to making it possible to enclose. But still the overhanging xmotor
Lmfao when you say creakily is fixing the firmware homing issue cuz they didn’t even the wonder 3 v2 firmware yet and it’s been out for years. Creality never fixing shit.
They actually did fix it, the latest ones don’t have the z switch on the bottom.
What issues are in the Ender 3 v2? I switched mine over to klipper a while ago
@@NathanBuildsRobots they probably should source their aluminum extrusion from someone else. I have had 2 ender 3 V2 both x axis are skewed. Now I have the ender 5 S1, X axis still skewed.
your so funny man hahahahahahahahhahaha
Poor wall -e hahaha
Nope, Nope,Nope !!!!!!
Do you have a printer profile for the printer? I’m having a rough time, they sent it with just a windows file and I use mac🥲
I just use the ender 5 profile but reduce the retractions to 1.2mm
The profile comes with prusaslicer
@@NathanBuildsRobots magnificent! Thanks! During my search I found a sweet guide on making a custom slicer profile for it if you’d like me to send it to you
Yes Please, I am bad at the software side of things :P