I will add my thanks as well. Certainly helped me. I live in the USA, interesting that getting the correct little metal bar was much easier to get from the UK than in the USA. Seems like the UK EBAY people had this as an actual part for this repair. I used a lot of WB40 type spray as an interim solution until the repair piece comes and I can truly use your experience. Amazed at how rusty the thing got. Without your video I would have had to but the entire latch mechanism.
Very good video. I'm having the same problem and may have to tackle this job in the near future. Would it be possible to use a Dremel drill and simply cut the rusty pin in an attempt to remove it from the handle itself without all of the dismantling? Once removed, the idea would be to insert two smaller pins on each side and somehow connect them together with a threaded piece. Dan, obviously you have completed this job the correct way and are very familiar with the inner workings. Not sure if I am dreaming with this idea?
I am having the same issue except I can’t even open the trunk in order to get at the internals... has anyone had any success doing this when trunk is stuck shut?
Yes....take a screwdriver or other flat tool. Look up under the latch on the door. You'll see that the finger plate is stuck in the "open" position. Insert the screwdriver or flat tool between the outer part of the latch casing and the finger plate. Push on the finger plate, driving it back into the "closed" position. This will reset the latch, and should allow you to open the rear hatch. It will close again, but the finger plate will have to again be set back to the normal, "closed" position to reopen. Hope this helps.
3mm Silver Steel works nicely. Use plenty of WD40 pushing the old pin through and Copper Ease on the new rod. There is no such thing as Marine Grade Steel!
Hi, I thought I'd used 303 stainless steel rod, but you do get grade 316 stainless steel too which is called marine grade. Whether there is any difference I honestly don't know it may just be a gimmick ? We live near a boat yard so readily available here
Karrie Kline , thanks. Mine was the same (I never had chance to film this bit!) what I did was got my new pin and used that to drift out the old rusty pin, it was really hard keeping them lined up and took a while before the old rusty pin moved. I did try using a nail to start with, I could not find my nail punch as this might have worked to start it off. Use the new pin at some point so that it's in as the old one pops out. Save any trouble later on!
drcuffe , yer we only have one key too!! I've just been really careful with it. I read that too about keys I think I read the cheapest way to do it is to buy your own blank key and get the dealer to code that but as with some dealers they can be funny! The route I was going to take but not yet is I spoke to my local auto locksmith he can code some keys and Volvo was one of them and he's going to do it a lot cheaper than Volvo.
I will add my thanks as well. Certainly helped me. I live in the USA, interesting that getting the correct little metal bar was much easier to get from the UK than in the USA. Seems like the UK EBAY people had this as an actual part for this repair. I used a lot of WB40 type spray as an interim solution until the repair piece comes and I can truly use your experience. Amazed at how rusty the thing got. Without your video I would have had to but the entire latch mechanism.
Thanks to this video, I fixed the dreaded boot handle issue on my beloved XC90. Much appreciated, thank you
Thanks Dan very helpful ;-)
It’s 4mm diameter bar. Whoever said it was 3mm diameter has got his facts wrong
and how long does the bar need to be ?
@@kasperbisgaard3259
I bought a 150mm length of 304 grade stainless bar from eBay for about £3.50
@@davidharker8796 thank you sir. Ive found this that should do the job www.ebay.com/itm/133013230668
Great video pal just done mine, thanks.
Thank you. it is good video.
Very good video. I'm having the same problem and may have to tackle this job in the near future. Would it be possible to use a Dremel drill and simply cut the rusty pin in an attempt to remove it from the handle itself without all of the dismantling? Once removed, the idea would be to insert two smaller pins on each side and somehow connect them together with a threaded piece. Dan, obviously you have completed this job the correct way and are very familiar with the inner workings. Not sure if I am dreaming with this idea?
What was the size of that bar
I am having the same issue except I can’t even open the trunk in order to get at the internals... has anyone had any success doing this when trunk is stuck shut?
Yes....take a screwdriver or other flat tool. Look up under the latch on the door. You'll see that the finger plate is stuck in the "open" position. Insert the screwdriver or flat tool between the outer part of the latch casing and the finger plate. Push on the finger plate, driving it back into the "closed" position. This will reset the latch, and should allow you to open the rear hatch. It will close again, but the finger plate will have to again be set back to the normal, "closed" position to reopen. Hope this helps.
3mm Silver Steel works nicely. Use plenty of WD40 pushing the old pin through and Copper Ease on the new rod. There is no such thing as Marine Grade Steel!
Hi, I thought I'd used 303 stainless steel rod, but you do get grade 316 stainless steel too which is called marine grade. Whether there is any difference I honestly don't know it may just be a gimmick ? We live near a boat yard so readily available here
Did you use 3mmx250mm or 4mmx250mm?
What diameter rod is it please? I would like to purchase a bar from RS or a local stainless steel supplier before repairs. Thank you.
I’m glad this helped people- I can’t tell follow this camera work- 1/2 the time it’s not showing what this dude is doing.
Thanks for the video! Very useful.
No problem!
Thank you for the detailed video. The pin on my Volvo is so rusted I can't get it out to replace it. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Karrie Kline , thanks. Mine was the same (I never had chance to film this bit!) what I did was got my new pin and used that to drift out the old rusty pin, it was really hard keeping them lined up and took a while before the old rusty pin moved. I did try using a nail to start with, I could not find my nail punch as this might have worked to start it off. Use the new pin at some point so that it's in as the old one pops out. Save any trouble later on!
I might have missed it, what is the diameter of bar I should buy before doing the job?
drcuffe , hi no sorry I'd forgotten when I started recording!! It is 4mm diameter. Think I bought 304 grade stainless steel
dan long thanks, much appreciated. Have you needed to get a spare key? I have heard only Volvo do them
drcuffe , yer we only have one key too!! I've just been really careful with it. I read that too about keys I think I read the cheapest way to do it is to buy your own blank key and get the dealer to code that but as with some dealers they can be funny! The route I was going to take but not yet is I spoke to my local auto locksmith he can code some keys and Volvo was one of them and he's going to do it a lot cheaper than Volvo.
How long is the rod? I believe I read somewhere that it's 250mm. Is this correct?