Is The Bambu Lab A1 Good for 3D Printed Miniatures & Terrain?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
- Bambu Lab 3D printers are known for producing amazing models with little to no tinkering. So I decided to test this presumption with miniatures and terrain on the newly improved Bambu Lab A1.
Models in this Video
Brite Minis: makerworld.com/en/@briteminis
Darkwing: makerworld.com/en/models/1685...
Teirale Miniatures: www.printables.com/@Teirale
Death x Tiles: www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Buy the Bambu Lab A1: shrsl.com/4k1rr
Buy the 0.2mm Nozzle: shrsl.com/4k1s7
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i'm always amazed that 0,4 mm nozzles achieve this level of detail - but switching to 0,2 mm and printing at 0,06 mm layer height shifts it up a notch, you should try that
I have a 0.2 nozzle on the way. I'll make a follow-up video about it.
@@FigureFeedback The detail on the 0.2 nozzle with the right settings approaches the quality of a 4k resin printer. I'll be happy to share my profile settings if interested.
@@nelsoncabrera6464im interested in using an elegoo Neptune 4 and would love to print miniatures but I can't get the settings right and they turn out incomplete or utter 💩
@@FigureFeedback thanks
Would love to see how those miniatures turn up like after painting. And especially ones from 0.2 nozzle.
That would be good for a follow-up video.
The 0.2mm nozzle will really make you happy. I'm using one for ho scale rail stuff on an A1 Mini with excellent results. Have fun! Now to buy either an A1 or a P1S. I'm leaning towards the A1 just for the easy nozzle swaps. Even my Ratrig VMinion doesn't do really small stuff quite as well as the A1 Mini, and the VMinion is one heck of a small format printer.
Please do a follow-up with the 0.2 nozzle. Would love to see some close-up side by side comparisons. Ive printed a few simple minis at 0.08 on my P1S and was really amazed at the quality level.
I will. I'm printing with it as I type this.
So, I know it is counterintuitive because there are flat planes, but I really recommend printing things like the tiles at a 45 degree angle. The side detail will reproduce the model details far better. You can really tell on like cobblestones, printed flat and normal you get visible stairstepping on every stone face, but if you print it at an angle with a little bit of supports most of those little stones or sconces or bones or whatever will turn out a lot nicer for just a little bit more filament and time. Hit it with some primer and you can get really impressive results with little effort.
That's interesting. I'll give this a try.
I need to switch to more FDM minis and terrain. I’ve got a Saturn 2 but after my daughter was born and moving, I haven’t used it at all. But I’ve been using my P1S like crazy. It’s just that time. Saturn two can do so many more at once, but the safety of FDM. Need more practice with it though.
Great video and got me to print more minis.
Amazing what FDM can do now a days without much fuss! Great video, keep em coming.
For sure!
I am thinking of getting the A1 mini, with the 0.2 nozzle
Man, quality of environment figures is insane
That house looks phenomenal 🤯
I have an A1-Mini with a .2 nozzle, use FDG custom profiles, and Sunlu Meta pla. I get near resin quality on minis
Are you using their Cura profiles?
I think he is referring to the "Fat Dragon Games" Bambu Studio profiles.
As much as I hope you do but I doubt it. I'd love to see a video of it or something. FDM can't compete with resin on the usual minuture scale.
@@joshbracken5450 depends in what you compete - speed? SLA sees no land against FDM, FDM is way faster, almost no post processing needed, no washing, no curing - most models can be just plucked from the print bed and are good to go
quality wise, 0.2 mm nozzle on my Bambu Lab P1 printer gives me similar results to an old Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
@@suit1337 Yeah but as for speed, when you print in resin, you're not printing a single mini. If you're not cramming the build plate absolutely full, you're doing it wrong. I print resin miniatures in about two hours and I don't think there are a lot of FDM machines out there that can even come close to the quality of resin in that amount of time, not even the Bambu Lab machines. And meanwhile, the resin machine is printing an entire plate.
Also, with FDM, your top layers always end up with that typicical FDM texture, they're never nearly as smooth as a resin print, even at .2mm.
Loving mine. I moved the AMS to my wall though. The top mount made me nervous.
It makes me a little nervous too. The mount has been solid so far, but I'm going to explore other options as well.
I started printing minis in 2018 with my first printer (old cartesian with A4988 drivers) using 0.15 layer and got very nice results. Later bougth a resin printer and its like inyection Quality. But FDM still get excellent results, and with fasters printers like bambú or K1 you finish very fast and almost resin quality.
I'm using mine too, it's a breeze to use, great printer, lives up to the hype for sure. After bad experiences with Flashforge and Artillery, I would recommend anyone to go for it and never look back.
Looking forward to the smaller nosil prints video
Resin FTW (but not the smell).
I was all set to order the flashforge 5m after watching some of your recent videos, but also got my eye on this printer. Just wondering if you would recommend one over the other please? Looking for quality, reliability and easy of use.
I did get the Flashforge 5m, and I have not been disappointed at all, and will be adding a 3rd party multi colors option. This printer looks great also. I do like the 5m enclosure options though. I printed 1 mini and it turned out great. Would love to see these new gen printers using a .2mm nozzel
That's a tough one. The 5M is a fantastic deal at $299. The A1 is $100 more. I've had the 5M much longer and it has produced good prints the majority of the time. It has been reliable for me. If you think you'll benefit from a larger printing area and the option to do multicolor prints, the A1 would serve you better. I can't speak on the A1's reliability just yet, but it has produced some great results so far.
@Figure Feedback Jeremy, thank you so much for the detailed reviews.
I wanted to ask if you think filament printers are suitable for printing action figures (parts to put together)?
I am mostly concerned about joints and how smooth they will move.
P.s. dont want to work with the resin due to material toxicity
Yes, they are. There's a project called Lucky 13 that's a great example of this. These have great articulation that are more expressive than most things you find in stores. Here's a link to it. www.printables.com/model/148367-lucky-13-printable-jointed-figure
@FigureFeedback, thank you so much for the reply and the link.
Designing more articulated and accurate version of something like batman is mostly the reason i want to get a 3d printer.
Very happy that things like that are getting more accessible
Man, I absolute LOVE seeing what newer FDM printer can produce and how easy they make it look! I've been using FDM printers for a decade now and let me tell you, getting this kind of quality on older machines is possible, but VERY involved. You needed to put a lot of work into getting the machine properly tuned and getting every setting right. These machine automate that pretty much for you. I've been keeping an eye on this particular machine (no AMS - I paint everything anyway). I've also backed those DeathX tiles and I'm looking to print them, but my older machines are sloooooooow...
Have you tried a .2mm nozzle? My experiences with them are... Not optimal. They add a lot of extra time to the print job (for only a marginal boost in detail quality) and I find they clog way too often and way too easily for my taste. What's your experience with that?
I haven't tried the 0.2 nozzle yet. I have one on the way and I'm going to do a follow-up video about my experience with it.
Where did you get the files from?
There are now some links to those in the description.