SCOTT WITH DALLAS PAINT CORRECTION & AUTO DETAILING IN PLANO TEXAS TALKS ABOUT LEATHER CONDITIONERS FOR CARS AND HOW TO USE THEM www.dallaspaintcorrection.com
You know why I think your videos are so much better than others ? I think other You-Tubers feel they have to give a good review because it has been sent to them by the manufactures ..They feel obligated , if you will.. You don`t do that .. If there is ever a truism and you use it all the time and that is "Being Transparent" Thank you Scott, always stay true ..
I'm binge watching your videos and I love how thorough you are. I love hearing you talk. That NY accent is awesome. Being in the south it's nice to hear a different accent for a change
You make a very valid point that no one has refuted. In cars the leather is coated in plastic to give better service. To to me the question is what is the best way to clean the plastic protective coating. Next is what is the best UV protectant for plastic.
True to some degree; most car leather is coated, so products like 303 may be the best choice overall. Trying to penetrate to the leather may backfire, by weakening the bond and creating separation of the surface film. Modern leathers are generally variations on chrome tanned, creating a very water- and heat-tolerant but naturally gunmetal gray leather then retanned, dyed, and/or coated to desired color and finish. Old vegetable tanned leather in saddles and boots was susceptible to denaturing with moisture and heat, as with wool, shrinking the proteins irreversibly and making a chocolate brown bark-stiff material. Chrome tanning greatly resists this issue, and car seats aren't normally prone until a decade or two of sunlight finally breaks them down.
Good video! I had the idea that a dressing that made the leather somewhat slick would help the coating last longer by reducing drag from your clothing or what ever. Less friction, longer life for the surface. Just my two cents.....
Great video, Scott; thanks a bunch. A couple of questions. 1) You mention (I think) that 90-95% of car leather has this coating. What are the cars that have leather without this coating? 2) Wouldn't the makers of leather care products take into account that 90-95% of car leather is coated and formulate their products for this?
Of all the leather cleaners/conditioners I've tried, I like good old Kiwi brand Saddle Soap the best. It's been around forever. It works wonders on everythig from dried out baseball gloves to sealed car seats. It cleans and conditions in one step, and leaves your seats and leather trim feeling nice and soft. It leaves a non-greasy protective wax finish that lasts for weeks. It's great on interior plastic too, leaving a nice satin fisnish which helps to protect against scuffs.
Saddles and traditional 'tack' is often packed with waxes and natural oils like neatsfoot oil. Saddle soap also replenishes these as they are lost from abrasion, flexing, perhaps oxidation and migration, but with glycerin instead. Either way, the collagen fibers do dry out and fray over time, and regular retreatment has kept hundred year old saddles usable. It may be that the durable seat leather could benefit from deep penetration, but that won't get through the plastic coating as he shows. Worst, the coating may weaken or separate if inappropriate compounds are applied to the finish, and most "natural" materials like aloe, lanolin, mink oil, etc. could damage the outer plastic finish. 303 is one of the most benign liquids I've found, that leaves no apparent residue or oil to build up or break down the surface, in fact it is probably the best vinyl treatment to date as well, so the overall protection may well be optimized.
I've found 303 does leave a very fine coating, unlike what 100% of the internet claims..... A month after applying to the dash, I can still swipe my finger and feel the coating. Yes, I have applied as the bottle says.
So just as important, how do you prevent the holes/perforations in the leather from getting clogged from creams? That would really be nasty to get that all gummed up????
I've made my own all natural leather conditioner, started out as a beard balm for my business, then as a detailor, was curious how it would work on my leather seats, and is better than anything else I've tried
Point well taken, Food for thought, What i should be looking for is a product that will keep the thin plastic protective layer that lays on the leather soft pliable i guess more of a cleaner than that of a conditioner, thanks for your thoughts on this matter 🤔 hmmmm
I worked in a shoe repair shop for 20+ years. There are def many ways to clean leather! We always would get it wet and scrub it down with stuff like Lincoln EZ Cleaner in a spray bottle (suede and fabric too). The Lexol PH Cleaner just wouldn't work for stains that well. Anywho, after I let it air dry for 24 hours (always use a towel and get it as dry as you can after washing it), I would use Leather Only. That stuff NEVER let me down! I even used it on naked leather like LV purse straps. It looks scary the first time as it goes dark instantly but the next day it's light again AND supple with a leather smell imparted from the conditioner. People loved using it for their leather furniture and car seats too. They do spray a coating on leather like a plastic/polymer to keep it from staining and I have mixed feelings on that since the leather underneath is drying out IMHO. As long as I did my jobs and lathered it up first, that's the best I knew to do. The enemy of leather IS indeed lack of oil. The leather was once on a cow with oil glands so once removed, you have to substitute oil or over time it does indeed dry rot. I've seen footwear and luggage that was dry rotted beyond repair to the point of ripping if you made any wrong moves. The conditioning is THE MOST IMPORTANT step to keeping leather supple. He is correct that dirt is an enemy when the leather is dry and something is producing friction on the surface or in the wrinkled areas on the shoe vamps where dirt gets in and acts like sandpaper. Just keep your leather wiped down and conditioned. I've brought many shoes back to new again with a good cleaning, conditioning and a final polish with a light glaze of Master Shine (which has lanolin in it) and enjoyed all the smiling faces when I was done. For stains that were really BAD, I would use DYO Spot Remover. It's a solvent used in the dry cleaning industry as well. If that didn't work then I'd break out the Acetone. Usually, by then I had to come back and re-dye or recolor things so the trick was to get the color match at which I was an expert at. I could produce pearl finish like it was the original. The company I worked at was always messing stuff up at their Houston shop so I always ended up fixing their mistakes. A great color spray is Meltonian Color Spray (used to be called Nu-Life Color Spray)...that stuff is incredible IF you have the magic touch and know how to feather it on correctly. I could use 2 or 3 colors and some fancy feathering work to make about any color correction including pearl. One more trick...leather is weakest where the stitching is because it's perforated so apply lotion liberally in those areas! For shoes, you also need to saturate down in the welt line where the upper folds under the sole (I guess "above" the sole would be more accurate) The area where the sole meets the upper. That always gets neglected and eventually rips out!
this comment is filled with bad information after bad information...im sorry but you don't understand the actual leathering process to begin with, the natural oils within the hide are completely removed during the process of making leather and that is by design, in fact they don't want any oil within the hide when it comes to modern day car leather that has a plastic coating...i can discuss your issues with shoes and why you feel conditioning them actual helps, but i don't have the time..my only advice is to walk less when wearing them and try not to let the shoe flex as you walk:)
It's all about keeping it from drying out and cracking, like skin, cuz it is skin, coated or not. Whatever works for each person is pretty much all the same. Keeping it clean is priority.
Scott, What about boat seats, my boat sites in a non climate controlled garage during the winter with a cover over the boat, when spring gets here I find a mildew appearance on my seats is there anything out there to prevent this or at least limit its effects?
I try not to slide on my seats I use 303 on dash I clean leather but I bought shades for windows I cover it most time when not using it they arent black out some light gets in just help leather last longer
I have buttoned club chairs - very gentlemanly sort of things. Folks loved them. I got them really cheap - all leather. I knew they weren't full grain for the price I paid. I also had leather bound books. All to great Sherlock Holmes effect. All I needed was a rolls in the drive way. The plot thickened when I decided that the leather needed more character. I bought leatherique and zaino and picards and lexol etc. Long and the short: the seats looked great for a week and then all the bonds broke down the bonded leather and it peeled like a bad sunburn. Now I have cool flaking chairs that look terrible. What this told me is that heavy conditioning breaks down the glue and surface protection for this highly treated leather. So this is a rather complex battle: water will moisten leather and flex it but if trapped could rot it. Oils probably do the same thing. The challenge I see is keeping the surface and impregnated treatment pliable without stripping it away or coating in another layer of junk. This is why I love your woolite tip. I've also noticed extreme differences in leather over the years in various cars. They are clearly using different chemicals and treatment. For instance rolls is totally different from mercedes which is different from infiniti which is different from toyota.
Is this conditioner good for new cars? I just got a new Denali truck and I want to by leather conditioner to preserve the new leather look for as long as possible. Any tips?
And also couldn't u just use a gold bond non greasy lotion for extremely dry skin to moisturizer the Hyde if it is uncoated leather...would be an interesting test to see
Ive tried many conditioners and cant say any one product was better than the other. Protection wise im in love with wolfgang cockpit sealant. Makes your butt glide across the leather and is a natural finish.
Im beginning to wonder if modern cars leather coated with plastic or a polymer is a good idea. Someone mentioned horse saddles , well taken care of could last for hundreds of years. Ive used some products (cleaners, conditioners) on older cars (30 year old) with leather and the stuff really did penetrate. You have to make sure you take off the excess. The glycerin in the cleaner made the old leather soft and cleaned it up. Unfortunately after applying conditioner the leather was supple, almost too supple, caused it to tear. I think next time i will use a mild soap and water, then use the conditioner on old leather. Either older cars didnt have the plastic or polymers on the leather or its come off with time. The leather definitely soaked up conditioner. Just use caution on older cars i guess. I used a conditioner on a newer car i have and just wiped off most of it, since it didnt seem to absorb.
From what you're saying, I would be best to buy some waterproof High SPF human sunblock and using it on leather. Wouldn't I? I mean if that's the only reason why you're applying it the leather, wouldn't it stand to reason to have the highest rating SPF sunblock you can get, along with the fact that it's waterproof so it doesn't rub off as easy?
I use hot water and hair conditioner...once the leather is feeling softer after a day or so I come back with coconut oil paste...and rub it in by hand..and that's on my aniline leather of my 05 f350 king ranch..
Is it ok to use armorall on leather? The regular armorall, not any that they market for leather. After watching your video, I'm thinking it is just marketing; more likely than not, armorall did not go through a rigorous testing process in the labs to engineer a better leather version of their lotion. … well, my leather is already kinda fuct on my back-seat headrests - from all that sun beating into the back window - so I think I will just go ahead and try the regular armorall, and will get back to y'all! … thanks for the video. Common sense and keeping an eye out for "snake oil" sales is a good thing to exercise.
I know it sounds kind of crazy but this got me thinking...if clear coat is a form of plastic & coating on leather is a form of plastic...wouldn't it make sense that u could use a ceramic coating on leather???? Hmmm..
What about seats that aren't in good condition, I've purchased multiple vehicles with leather seats that weren't torn but were close to the limit and showed actual wear down to the leather layer. I would think it would help that to add flexibility back into the material hopefully extending the life of that material. Leather does dry out, maybe not the plastic coating but the animal hide does need to be conditioned if exposed. I brought back a pair of leather boots, different I know, with mink oil that definitely made a huge difference. The mink oil had wax in it that also added a protective waterproof barrier. I don't think that stuff works on car seats do to how messy it is but I came to this video looking for a material to do something similar for car leather seats, actual leather. Still good info with the plastic barrier though thank you anyway.
its been a long time since i have tried Zaino..i remember years ago they were a good product but i also remember something had changed and the product went south a little...perhaps i should revisit the line...thanks for the heads up..much love Michael:)
No, no leather conditioner penetrates the polyurethane coating on leather seats. You are wiping the product on and wiping it back off. Maybe for a leather that doesn't have a PU coating (Aston Martin supposedly), this stuff will work. You are also correct regarding the UV protection: it's very little - maybe it lasts a few hours in direct sunlight, maybe a day inside a car. Chemicals or minerals that really block UV are very opaque.
Leather is cow SKIN. I had a leather upholster that used baby oil, I've used it for over 20 years and it keeps leather soft and crack free, naturally. Keeps babys butts soft and leather too. Let it soak in for a day before using!
After searching far and wide for the best leather cleaner and conditioner in the world... I discovered there are many excellent products out there. It's a matter of personal preference combined with wear and tear specific to your lifestyle. My favorite brands from experience are Meguiar's, Chemical Guys, Surf City Garage and Zymol. High end is TriNova.
For some reason this didn't work for me. 06 acura tl 6mt. I cleaned the interior until all the shine n oils were removed. Then applied this product but it seems like it kept disappearing i don't know I literally applied it like 10 times on my dash, steering wheel, shift knob, etc and it kept just going back to as if i never applied anything to those parts i thought my leather and interior parts r dried up so it keeps soaking it but im sure i doesnt need 10 coats. I let the car sit and next day when i got in the car everything was bone dry. thing i like about this product is that it smells awesome. Tried it on my couch too at home same thing.
what natural oils are in your dash,steering wheel,shift knob and leather plus plastic interior?...do you want an interior or leather that is wet looking?...thanks for your comment and if you don't mind me asking, what product did you use to replenish the oils to your interior parts?..thanks and much love
Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing i used purple power mixed with warm water. It cleaned good i could tell that there was no goo left on steering a stuff. Wiped it down let it dry and then i applied this meguiars leather lotion to my dash, steering, seats, shift knobs and some areas on door panels which are all padded with leather. And i didnt drive the car or anything and i applied it on thick so i could come later and wipe it down to et matt finish but next day it was like i applied nothing whatsoever. Its dry(not matt) like really dry especially my dash. You know how armor all stays wet for a month or so. But i dont like shinny wet look. I like matte look. I will clean the whole interior again with something else next week because my carpets need to be shampooed so im gonna take the seats out. Love the videos and your honest opinions on everything.
5Riverz I am not sure but I would not recommend using purple power on leather....it's very unpredictable and I have seen it strip the plastic coating off of leather before...also can remove the dye from the leather if u keep cleaning once you remove the coating...if it is tacky you probably removed the plastic coating...it is my opinion that purple power is a great cleaner for certain applications when used with caution and at the appropriate dilution ratio...just always always test first in an inconspicuous area especially when working on someone else's vehicle...cheers!
Alex Bryan yeah it was diluted 6parts warm water and 1 part purple power. Because the steering and stuff had some kind of gummy stuff caked up. I tested it on arm rest first since that replaceable and there r many of em i have seen at junkyards. I didnt see any color transfer to my lime green microfiber towel. It worked fine just gotta make sure not to let it sit on there. I was told to use 4 to 1 ratio but i played it safe n went with 6 to 1. Will try something else maybe griots interior spray n then try meguiars lotion again. Still smells nice tho. My leather looks a lot like the one in video but in black.
You could also metion that the best way to Protect your Leather Seats ! To always use a Windshield shade to block the UV rays ☀️ !! And if you don't have tinted windows get it done to block some of the UV's coming thru ! Just saying 🤣
Same as your paint, you're not touching it, you're touching the clear coat, but it's still worth it to protect the surface, whether or not it's making down to the material.
Same thing hold true for those folks seeking out a wax or polish for dark color paint. Clear coat is clear coat, you're not waxing or polishing the paint!
My little brain asks this, what would happen if this plastic coating was removed, there by allowing you to actually condition the leather on a regular basis? Would the leather become more soft and supple in time? Like I said, regular cleaning/conditioning is a given, so no need for sarcastic solar rays/sun destroying the leather....
I'm no leather expert, but I believe it's basic common sense that if leather seats are not cared for they get dry, hard, and even brittle over time. To solve that problem it's neccessary to be conditioned on a regular basis and an oily "lotion" (leather likes and needs to be conditioned) that is leather "friendly" to keep your seats like new-- soft and supple, just say'in.
If water molecules are too large to penetrate the coated leather (they have only 3 atoms), then any other ingredient is going to be much larger so will only stay on the surface.
Samuel Adams7 heard griots 3 in 1 does and feels like hand lotion. someone did a review of it vs meguiars vers. of 3 in 1 leather. I just bought some tonight (griot's) and opened the cap to smell it (bit didn't rip off the foil cap). smells like a strong new car plastic smell but maybe that's just the plastic cap. Will update when I get to cleaning my leather seats..
It's not a cut pieces of cowhide sewn together to make a seat cover. What is used is scrap hide ground together and chemically glued to form a sheet with a top plastic coating known as bonded leather. In furniture, this is your cheap alternative to real quality expensive leather. I am sure many premium vehicles use better leather. My Chevy truck and Lexus car have big noticeable differences in leather quality. One is leather and the other in my experience is truly not.
Paul Campise 99% of cars don't use real leather. Real leather is very fine grain, like Nappa leather. So when you see thick grain leather in BMWs and other cars it's almost certainly fake.
I have a leather recliner Ekornes leather recliner and it will absorb liquid or " drink" but I doubt it would last in a car. Your comments are informative thanks.
Water is a molecular structure made from the atoms hydrogen and oxygen.Water is hydrophilic and therefore easily permeates across natural membranes. The reason it beads off a surface is because of the synthetic coating creating a hydrophobic barrier on a natural surface. The water molecules are NOT too large. Please don't say the water molecules are too large.
If you're looking for an answer ...
He said "I don't know" and it's for us to decide.
FYI go halfway through the video to finally get to the point
You know why I think your videos are so much better than others ? I think other You-Tubers feel they have to give a good review because it has been sent to them by the manufactures ..They feel obligated , if you will.. You don`t do that .. If there is ever a truism and you use it all the time and that is "Being Transparent" Thank you Scott, always stay true ..
I'm binge watching your videos and I love how thorough you are. I love hearing you talk. That NY accent is awesome. Being in the south it's nice to hear a different accent for a change
Wow Scott! Logic, Truth Aaannnddd Sarcasm! Keep the great videos coming! 👍
Wow this is EXACTLY the info that i was looking for. I had MANY questions and doubts that you kind of answered. Thank you, good job.
Zaino z9 and z10 are my choice of leather cleaner! Keeps the car smelling like leather, and boy do I love that smell. :)
You make a very valid point that no one has refuted. In cars the leather is coated in plastic to give better service. To to me the question is what is the best way to clean the plastic protective coating. Next is what is the best UV protectant for plastic.
True to some degree; most car leather is coated, so products like 303 may be the best choice overall. Trying to penetrate to the leather may backfire, by weakening the bond and creating separation of the surface film. Modern leathers are generally variations on chrome tanned, creating a very water- and heat-tolerant but naturally gunmetal gray leather then retanned, dyed, and/or coated to desired color and finish. Old vegetable tanned leather in saddles and boots was susceptible to denaturing with moisture and heat, as with wool, shrinking the proteins irreversibly and making a chocolate brown bark-stiff material. Chrome tanning greatly resists this issue, and car seats aren't normally prone until a decade or two of sunlight finally breaks them down.
"As if the leather needs to drink something like it's a baby calf". 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
you like that..lol...love this comment:)
DetailingGidoef and
Scott souls do so stand up.
@@sewerman911 ááaaá
Brilliant.....I had no common sense...this vid makes so much sense
Very informative Scott Thanks
Good video! I had the idea that a dressing that made the leather somewhat slick would help the coating last longer by reducing drag from your clothing or what ever. Less friction, longer life for the surface. Just my two cents.....
Thank you Scott your video defiantly opened my eyes! Stay true.
Great video, Scott; thanks a bunch. A couple of questions.
1) You mention (I think) that 90-95% of car leather has this coating. What are the cars that have leather without this coating?
2) Wouldn't the makers of leather care products take into account that 90-95% of car leather is coated and formulate their products for this?
Of all the leather cleaners/conditioners I've tried, I like good old Kiwi brand Saddle Soap the best. It's been around forever. It works wonders on everythig from dried out baseball gloves to sealed car seats. It cleans and conditions in one step, and leaves your seats and leather trim feeling nice and soft. It leaves a non-greasy protective wax finish that lasts for weeks. It's great on interior plastic too, leaving a nice satin fisnish which helps to protect against scuffs.
Hysterical!! I'm a very sarcastic person and love this video!!
Saddles and traditional 'tack' is often packed with waxes and natural oils like neatsfoot oil. Saddle soap also replenishes these as they are lost from abrasion, flexing, perhaps oxidation and migration, but with glycerin instead. Either way, the collagen fibers do dry out and fray over time, and regular retreatment has kept hundred year old saddles usable. It may be that the durable seat leather could benefit from deep penetration, but that won't get through the plastic coating as he shows. Worst, the coating may weaken or separate if inappropriate compounds are applied to the finish, and most "natural" materials like aloe, lanolin, mink oil, etc. could damage the outer plastic finish. 303 is one of the most benign liquids I've found, that leaves no apparent residue or oil to build up or break down the surface, in fact it is probably the best vinyl treatment to date as well, so the overall protection may well be optimized.
I've found 303 does leave a very fine coating, unlike what 100% of the internet claims..... A month after applying to the dash, I can still swipe my finger and feel the coating. Yes, I have applied as the bottle says.
So just as important, how do you prevent the holes/perforations in the leather from getting clogged from creams? That would really be nasty to get that all gummed up????
I've made my own all natural leather conditioner, started out as a beard balm for my business, then as a detailor, was curious how it would work on my leather seats, and is better than anything else I've tried
Hey, I like your long winded videos! :)
Point well taken, Food for thought, What i should be looking for is a product that will keep the thin plastic protective layer that lays on the leather soft pliable i guess more of a cleaner than that of a conditioner, thanks for your thoughts on this matter
🤔 hmmmm
I worked in a shoe repair shop for 20+ years. There are def many ways to
clean leather! We always would get it wet and scrub it down with stuff
like Lincoln EZ Cleaner in a spray bottle (suede and fabric too). The
Lexol PH Cleaner just wouldn't work for stains that well. Anywho, after I
let it air dry for 24 hours (always use a towel and get it as dry as
you can after washing it), I would use Leather Only. That stuff NEVER
let me down! I even used it on naked leather like LV purse straps. It
looks scary the first time as it goes dark instantly but the next day
it's light again AND supple with a leather smell imparted from the
conditioner. People loved using it for their leather furniture and car
seats too.
They do spray a coating on leather like a plastic/polymer to keep it
from staining and I have mixed feelings on that since the leather
underneath is drying out IMHO. As long as I did my jobs and lathered it
up first, that's the best I knew to do. The enemy of leather IS indeed
lack of oil. The leather was once on a cow with oil glands so once
removed, you have to substitute oil or over time it does indeed dry rot.
I've seen footwear and luggage that was dry rotted beyond repair to the
point of ripping if you made any wrong moves. The conditioning is THE
MOST IMPORTANT step to keeping leather supple. He is correct that dirt
is an enemy when the leather is dry and something is producing friction
on the surface or in the wrinkled areas on the shoe vamps where dirt
gets in and acts like sandpaper. Just keep your leather wiped down and
conditioned.
I've brought
many shoes back to new again with a good cleaning, conditioning and a
final polish with a light glaze of Master Shine (which has lanolin in
it) and enjoyed all the smiling faces when I was done. For stains that
were really BAD, I would use DYO Spot Remover. It's a solvent used in
the dry cleaning industry as well. If that didn't work then I'd break
out the Acetone. Usually, by then I had to come back and re-dye or
recolor things so the trick was to get the color match at which I was an
expert at. I could produce pearl finish like it was the original. The
company I worked at was always messing stuff up at their Houston shop so
I always ended up fixing their mistakes.
A great color spray is Meltonian Color Spray (used to be called Nu-Life
Color Spray)...that stuff is incredible IF you have the magic touch and
know how to feather it on correctly. I could use 2 or 3 colors and some
fancy feathering work to make about any
color correction including pearl.
One more trick...leather is weakest where the stitching is because it's
perforated so apply lotion liberally in those areas! For shoes, you also
need to saturate down in the welt line where the upper folds under the
sole (I guess "above" the sole would be more accurate) The area where
the sole meets the upper. That always gets neglected and eventually rips
out!
this comment is filled with bad information after bad information...im sorry but you don't understand the actual leathering process to begin with, the natural oils within the hide are completely removed during the process of making leather and that is by design, in fact they don't want any oil within the hide when it comes to modern day car leather that has a plastic coating...i can discuss your issues with shoes and why you feel conditioning them actual helps, but i don't have the time..my only advice is to walk less when wearing them and try not to let the shoe flex as you walk:)
leather seats let the leather conditioner penetrate in to the leather will that make it less transverse to our skin ?
Dude what part of "car leather has a plastic coating" didn't you get before trying to write a book on cleaning leather.
Do you think using a leather cleaner would be safe with the plastic that’s sits on top of the leather?
Is there a way to get the creases in the seat out? Such as the one visible in the lower left corner?
Any thoughts on using the product on newly restored and painted seats ?
Nice honest video, thanks
It's all about keeping it from drying out and cracking, like skin, cuz it is skin, coated or not. Whatever works for each person is pretty much all the same. Keeping it clean is priority.
Scott. Jesus, you talk more than my wife. Like her, you have good things to say but it takes 10 minute to get to the point. Keep up the great vids.
MrThreadhead ...lmao
lol Scott My god GET TO THE POINT useless
surprised you're still married with comments like that
ههههههههههههههه
LMFAO!!!
Scott, What about boat seats, my boat sites in a non climate controlled garage during the winter with a cover over the boat, when spring gets here I find a mildew appearance on my seats is there anything out there to prevent this or at least limit its effects?
I try not to slide on my seats I use 303 on dash I clean leather but I bought shades for windows I cover it most time when not using it they arent black out some light gets in just help leather last longer
How often should you apply conditioner to your leather?
Very genuine . no biases attached
Great sense of professionalism . Thank you
I have buttoned club chairs - very gentlemanly sort of things. Folks loved them. I got them really cheap - all leather. I knew they weren't full grain for the price I paid. I also had leather bound books. All to great Sherlock Holmes effect. All I needed was a rolls in the drive way. The plot thickened when I decided that the leather needed more character. I bought leatherique and zaino and picards and lexol etc. Long and the short: the seats looked great for a week and then all the bonds broke down the bonded leather and it peeled like a bad sunburn. Now I have cool flaking chairs that look terrible. What this told me is that heavy conditioning breaks down the glue and surface protection for this highly treated leather. So this is a rather complex battle: water will moisten leather and flex it but if trapped could rot it. Oils probably do the same thing. The challenge I see is keeping the surface and impregnated treatment pliable without stripping it away or coating in another layer of junk. This is why I love your woolite tip. I've also noticed extreme differences in leather over the years in various cars. They are clearly using different chemicals and treatment. For instance rolls is totally different from mercedes which is different from infiniti which is different from toyota.
Is this conditioner good for new cars? I just got a new Denali truck and I want to by leather conditioner to preserve the new leather look for as long as possible. Any tips?
Finally!!! You should title your video "Common sense awaking". Excellent points, personally I believe they are all valid.
And also couldn't u just use a gold bond non greasy lotion for extremely dry skin to moisturizer the Hyde if it is uncoated leather...would be an interesting test to see
Ive tried many conditioners and cant say any one product was better than the other. Protection wise im in love with wolfgang cockpit sealant. Makes your butt glide across the leather and is a natural finish.
What is wrong with using Saddle soap?
Will leather conditioners work well on leatherette?
Im beginning to wonder if modern cars leather coated with plastic or a polymer is a good idea. Someone mentioned horse saddles , well taken care of could last for hundreds of years. Ive used some products (cleaners, conditioners) on older cars (30 year old) with leather and the stuff really did penetrate. You have to make sure you take off the excess. The glycerin in the cleaner made the old leather soft and cleaned it up. Unfortunately after applying conditioner the leather was supple, almost too supple, caused it to tear. I think next time i will use a mild soap and water, then use the conditioner on old leather. Either older cars didnt have the plastic or polymers on the leather or its come off with time. The leather definitely soaked up conditioner. Just use caution on older cars i guess. I used a conditioner on a newer car i have and just wiped off most of it, since it didnt seem to absorb.
How can you remove that coating on leather seats
Hello Sir, can I use scout boot cream in my car interior?
So i should put this after cleaning with the Woolite solution?
SUPERBLY DONE!!!!
On light leather if it did penetrate you could put a drop of the lotion on a hidden spot and it would turn darker.
How about getting rid of diamond ring scratches on vinyl ?
So what about custom leather seat covers? Made from raw leather
I think it just needs acp and nothing more. Great video :)
Do you charge extra for leather conditioning
From what you're saying, I would be best to buy some waterproof High SPF human sunblock and using it on leather. Wouldn't I? I mean if that's the only reason why you're applying it the leather, wouldn't it stand to reason to have the highest rating SPF sunblock you can get, along with the fact that it's waterproof so it doesn't rub off as easy?
Unfortunately ypu cannot buy this in USA anymore. I have not found anything like this! Any recommendations would be a big help
I use hot water and hair conditioner...once the leather is feeling softer after a day or so I come back with coconut oil paste...and rub it in by hand..and that's on my aniline leather of my 05 f350 king ranch..
Thank you, Ray Barone.
I gotta try this stuff on the top of my head, sounds like it will grow hair!!!!! Thanks
hey I'm bald as well...lol..if it works please let me know:)
I will!
Is it ok to use armorall on leather? The regular armorall, not any that they market for leather. After watching your video, I'm thinking it is just marketing; more likely than not, armorall did not go through a rigorous testing process in the labs to engineer a better leather version of their lotion. … well, my leather is already kinda fuct on my back-seat headrests - from all that sun beating into the back window - so I think I will just go ahead and try the regular armorall, and will get back to y'all! … thanks for the video. Common sense and keeping an eye out for "snake oil" sales is a good thing to exercise.
I know it sounds kind of crazy but this got me thinking...if clear coat is a form of plastic & coating on leather is a form of plastic...wouldn't it make sense that u could use a ceramic coating on leather???? Hmmm..
Alex Bryan There's ceramic coatings for leather
What about seats that aren't in good condition, I've purchased multiple vehicles with leather seats that weren't torn but were close to the limit and showed actual wear down to the leather layer. I would think it would help that to add flexibility back into the material hopefully extending the life of that material. Leather does dry out, maybe not the plastic coating but the animal hide does need to be conditioned if exposed. I brought back a pair of leather boots, different I know, with mink oil that definitely made a huge difference. The mink oil had wax in it that also added a protective waterproof barrier. I don't think that stuff works on car seats do to how messy it is but I came to this video looking for a material to do something similar for car leather seats, actual leather. Still good info with the plastic barrier though thank you anyway.
How to repair wrinkle leather seats
What happens to car leather if you don't condition it? Who has seen leather seats that are hard, dry, brittle and cracking?
Hi Scott, did you ever use Zaino products? I use their leather care but after watching your Woolite video. Im hooked. Thank you.
its been a long time since i have tried Zaino..i remember years ago they were a good product but i also remember something had changed and the product went south a little...perhaps i should revisit the line...thanks for the heads up..much love Michael:)
What do you do with perforated seats that get crumbs etc stuck in the perforations? Sometimes they won't come out with a vacuum
th-cam.com/video/y65YFcYH0bw/w-d-xo.html........i made this video a couple of months ago, it should help with your question..much love my friend:)
Try to eat your meals at home on your bean bag chair, not your vehicle.
bill marcom ..lmao
You ever use Leatherique? I use it in my range rover and works great
Best product on the market for leather but it takes a lot of time to get it right. 2 step process.
Learned alot. You sound like Howard Stern lol
ok so what if you are one of those guys that has uncoated leather seats? not vinyl, not coated, just natural dyed black cow hide. what is recommended?
Meguiar's Ultimate Leather Balm
Great video!
No, no leather conditioner penetrates the polyurethane coating on leather seats. You are wiping the product on and wiping it back off. Maybe for a leather that doesn't have a PU coating (Aston Martin supposedly), this stuff will work. You are also correct regarding the UV protection: it's very little - maybe it lasts a few hours in direct sunlight, maybe a day inside a car. Chemicals or minerals that really block UV are very opaque.
So, what do YOU use? That's what I want to know.
He showed it in the video...
It also appears that a bucket of Preen from Costco is the ultimate detailer's stool.
Lots of questions asked but never answered the one question this video is titled.
The answer is at the end; "It's up to you to decide."
How about 1997? Did they coat leather back then?
Leather is cow SKIN. I had a leather upholster that used baby oil, I've used it for over 20 years and it keeps leather soft and crack free, naturally. Keeps babys butts soft and leather too. Let it soak in for a day before using!
On my leather, I use oil from olives, not oil from babies.
What's the best conditioner to use on my leather thong?
Your own body oil
Ray Ramano? lol Thanks for the vid
After searching far and wide for the best leather cleaner and conditioner in the world... I discovered there are many excellent products out there. It's a matter of personal preference combined with wear and tear specific to your lifestyle. My favorite brands from experience are Meguiar's, Chemical Guys, Surf City Garage and Zymol. High end is TriNova.
Michael Graystone I like mastersons
So in other words just make sure the surface gets cleaned often?
For some reason this didn't work for me. 06 acura tl 6mt. I cleaned the interior until all the shine n oils were removed. Then applied this product but it seems like it kept disappearing i don't know I literally applied it like 10 times on my dash, steering wheel, shift knob, etc and it kept just going back to as if i never applied anything to those parts i thought my leather and interior parts r dried up so it keeps soaking it but im sure i doesnt need 10 coats. I let the car sit and next day when i got in the car everything was bone dry. thing i like about this product is that it smells awesome. Tried it on my couch too at home same thing.
what natural oils are in your dash,steering wheel,shift knob and leather plus plastic interior?...do you want an interior or leather that is wet looking?...thanks for your comment and if you don't mind me asking, what product did you use to replenish the oils to your interior parts?..thanks and much love
Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing i used purple power mixed with warm water. It cleaned good i could tell that there was no goo left on steering a stuff. Wiped it down let it dry and then i applied this meguiars leather lotion to my dash, steering, seats, shift knobs and some areas on door panels which are all padded with leather. And i didnt drive the car or anything and i applied it on thick so i could come later and wipe it down to et matt finish but next day it was like i applied nothing whatsoever. Its dry(not matt) like really dry especially my dash. You know how armor all stays wet for a month or so. But i dont like shinny wet look. I like matte look. I will clean the whole interior again with something else next week because my carpets need to be shampooed so im gonna take the seats out. Love the videos and your honest opinions on everything.
5Riverz I am not sure but I would not recommend using purple power on leather....it's very unpredictable and I have seen it strip the plastic coating off of leather before...also can remove the dye from the leather if u keep cleaning once you remove the coating...if it is tacky you probably removed the plastic coating...it is my opinion that purple power is a great cleaner for certain applications when used with caution and at the appropriate dilution ratio...just always always test first in an inconspicuous area especially when working on someone else's vehicle...cheers!
Alex Bryan yeah it was diluted 6parts warm water and 1 part purple power. Because the steering and stuff had some kind of gummy stuff caked up. I tested it on arm rest first since that replaceable and there r many of em i have seen at junkyards. I didnt see any color transfer to my lime green microfiber towel. It worked fine just gotta make sure not to let it sit on there. I was told to use 4 to 1 ratio but i played it safe n went with 6 to 1. Will try something else maybe griots interior spray n then try meguiars lotion again. Still smells nice tho. My leather looks a lot like the one in video but in black.
So, should smell be considered?
Maxx Weber ...pends on who she is ..lol
I just want to know what works best to preserve my plastic seats.
You could also metion that the best way to Protect your Leather Seats ! To always use a Windshield shade to block the UV rays ☀️ !! And if you don't have tinted windows get it done to block some of the UV's coming thru ! Just saying 🤣
Interesting!
Same as your paint, you're not touching it, you're touching the clear coat, but it's still worth it to protect the surface, whether or not it's making down to the material.
good video buddy alwAys
This is like Nova . The leather seat .
Same thing hold true for those folks seeking out a wax or polish for dark color paint. Clear coat is clear coat, you're not waxing or polishing the paint!
Are you a car detailer or a forensic scientist?
I agree with you, but where the perforations are, the conditioners can get to the hide.
My little brain asks this, what would happen if this plastic coating was removed, there by allowing you to actually condition the leather on a regular basis? Would the leather become more soft and supple in time? Like I said, regular cleaning/conditioning is a given, so no need for sarcastic solar rays/sun destroying the leather....
I'm no leather expert, but I believe it's basic common sense that if leather seats are not cared for they get dry, hard, and even brittle over time. To solve that problem it's neccessary to be conditioned on a regular basis and an oily "lotion" (leather likes and needs to be conditioned) that is leather "friendly" to keep your seats like new-- soft and supple, just say'in.
I'm going fire one at ya Scott. What if you just smeared some sun screen on it?
If water molecules are too large to penetrate the coated leather (they have only 3 atoms), then any other ingredient is going to be much larger so will only stay on the surface.
So Scott...which leather conditioner smells like leather?
Samuel Adams7 heard griots 3 in 1 does and feels like hand lotion. someone did a review of it vs meguiars vers. of 3 in 1 leather. I just bought some tonight (griot's) and opened the cap to smell it (bit didn't rip off the foil cap). smells like a strong new car plastic smell but maybe that's just the plastic cap. Will update when I get to cleaning my leather seats..
great facts
Philosophy and technique.
What happened to Protectall? I just bought protectall because of another of your video's.
The little "dropper" is called a pipet...
It's not a cut pieces of cowhide sewn together to make a seat cover. What is used is scrap hide ground together and chemically glued to form a sheet with a top plastic coating known as bonded leather. In furniture, this is your cheap alternative to real quality expensive leather. I am sure many premium vehicles use better leather. My Chevy truck and Lexus car have big noticeable differences in leather quality. One is leather and the other in my experience is truly not.
Paul Campise 99% of cars don't use real leather. Real leather is very fine grain, like Nappa leather. So when you see thick grain leather in BMWs and other cars it's almost certainly fake.
I have a leather recliner Ekornes leather recliner and it will absorb liquid or " drink" but I doubt it would last in a car. Your comments are informative thanks.
2:05, it’s a pipette.
Scott, it's called an Eye Dropper. They are used for many uses.
Water is a molecular structure made from the atoms hydrogen and oxygen.Water is hydrophilic and therefore easily permeates across natural membranes. The reason it beads off a surface is because of the synthetic coating creating a hydrophobic barrier on a natural surface. The water molecules are NOT too large. Please don't say the water molecules are too large.