It may be that there is information that has been lost in the translation from Finnish to English to Norwegian, or it's just me misunderstanding. But it sounded like you control the charging of your LFP batteries by changing the settings on the BMS? According to what I have learned, it is the regulator in your charger that should control the charging and not the BMS. There are BMSs that can give recommendations to the charger or exchange data, but at the end of the day it is still the charger that makes the final regulation. I don't see that you have this kind of communication between the charger and BMS? The BMS should therefore be configured in relation to the battery manufacturer's recommendations for safe operation. I have also a BMS from JK and cells from EVE in my boat for a couple of years now and it has worked flawlessly. Keep up the good work! 👍
Hi! As I mentioned in the video the charger I have is (was) regular lead acid battery charger. If i remember right its bulk charge voltage was around 57 volts. Anyway it was in the upper end of the 3,65V per cell. However when I put the bms to stop charging around there the charger dropped eventually to trickle mode which was around 3,45V per cell - which is the perfect voltage to balance the cells and charge them around 95%. So no - there’s no intelligence in the system at all. I need to switch the charger off manually. I got the new charger that has several voltage and logics to choose from. I think I’m gonna put it in constant voltage mode. To balance the cells properly the charger needs to output the 3,45V per cell for a good while. Normal “charge it until it’s on the 3,65V” doesn’t give enough time for balancing.
And also - I haven’t found any charger that could be even set to charge to certain voltage, then keep it there for hour (or something) and then switch itself off…
Didn't mention these. I got them from nkon.nl-webstore. Specs say that one cell weights 1980g. So that times sixteen is about 32kg. Plus the box and BMS. I'd say it's quite close to 35kg altogether. In comparison, one 100Ah lead acid battery I had weights 21kg. So the weight got down from 84kg to 35kg and the available capacity more than doubled.
Hello, I have the GM 5kW Motor and also have a big problem with the Hall sensors. It turned out that it wasn't the sensors but just bad cable contacts. Unfortunately, the engine control units only use very low signal levels so that any contact corrosion leads to problems. Best regards Philipp
Interesting! I got new motor ordered. I will try to fix the old though. I think it’s a good idea to really know what’s inside of these to be able to figure out possible problems anywhere in the world. And compared to diesels these are actually super simple. 😊 I’ll let you know what the problem is/was!
@@ArcticSeaCamel Hello, Dismantling the engine is not easy and not without danger. The magnets are extremely strong and want to pull the motor housing together. If you want to disassemble it, I recommend clamping the motor in a lathe with an appropriate auxiliary device, otherwise it will be difficult to align and assemble it precisely. If there is any skin near the assembly joint, it will be bloody. Inside there is a slider with extremely strong fixed magnets. A track with smaller magnets is installed on the slider disc, which drives the Hall sensors. The Hall sensors are installed on a small circuit board. Three series resistors are installed on the circuit board to protect the Hall sensors. These are not pull-up resistors! The pull-up resistors are set by the microcontroller in the control unit. Opening the control unit is not a major problem, but the circuit board is very tightly packed and it is difficult to recognise anything.
In my experience, it is not worth opening the motor, if something is faulty, a fixed magnet has come loose and you would hear it. The Hall sensors are very robust. However, you can measure the sensor signals. To do this, you need a power supply (3.3-24V optional) and a pulse resistor between the signal and Vcc (see data sheet "41F"). Then you can turn the motor by hand and use the multimeter to measure whether the Hall sensors switch or not. The control unit works with 3.3V, the high level should be well above 2.5V on all sensors with a 3.3V supply, otherwise it will not be recognised correctly. Philipp Schlautmann
@@philippschlautmann7454 Thanks for the tips! I'll get back into this when I get the motor changed first (and just hoping the problem isn't with the motor controller...)
👋 I actually looked into this a little bit. What I understood that compression can reduce the degradation of the cells when using them in high C rates. In my case, I use them with very low rates and only few cycles in year. So most of the degradation in my case comes just in time rather than usage anyway.
Interesting - these systems are very expensive to buy ...what are the costs of these units - and the weight? What kind of propeller are used? Can there be some kind of recharge while sailing?
They’re not that expensive by diy. The motor with controller was around 1000€ with tolls and taxes. This battery was about 700-800€ with the BMS. Then there was all kind of small bits and bolts. I’d say you can build setup like this with 2000-2500$. The most difficult part was to make the connection with the motor and sail drive. You can find some info about that from the old videos. 🙂
Good work. 👍
We have been miss and you
Thanks for another very interesting video.
:) great to see u a nice amount of work, Big Thanks :)
Good stuff - you are a clever lad.😀👍⛵️ Bummer with the surge damage hope the insurance comes through for you.
Yep. Got the money and all the stuff has been ordered. Hoping to get it up and running in few days. :)
Interesting 😊
Thanks for sharing! Good to hear your positive experience! Im interested how you configured your charger/BMD
It may be that there is information that has been lost in the translation from Finnish to English to Norwegian, or it's just me misunderstanding. But it sounded like you control the charging of your LFP batteries by changing the settings on the BMS? According to what I have learned, it is the regulator in your charger that should control the charging and not the BMS. There are BMSs that can give recommendations to the charger or exchange data, but at the end of the day it is still the charger that makes the final regulation. I don't see that you have this kind of communication between the charger and BMS? The BMS should therefore be configured in relation to the battery manufacturer's recommendations for safe operation. I have also a BMS from JK and cells from EVE in my boat for a couple of years now and it has worked flawlessly. Keep up the good work! 👍
Hi! As I mentioned in the video the charger I have is (was) regular lead acid battery charger.
If i remember right its bulk charge voltage was around 57 volts. Anyway it was in the upper end of the 3,65V per cell.
However when I put the bms to stop charging around there the charger dropped eventually to trickle mode which was around 3,45V per cell - which is the perfect voltage to balance the cells and charge them around 95%.
So no - there’s no intelligence in the system at all. I need to switch the charger off manually.
I got the new charger that has several voltage and logics to choose from. I think I’m gonna put it in constant voltage mode. To balance the cells properly the charger needs to output the 3,45V per cell for a good while. Normal “charge it until it’s on the 3,65V” doesn’t give enough time for balancing.
And also - I haven’t found any charger that could be even set to charge to certain voltage, then keep it there for hour (or something) and then switch itself off…
Ground power surge. Boat ground and earth ground might have been off balance during storm. Spirit woeld stuff this boat AC grounding... 😁
Yep. Something like that has to be the cause. Don’t know of the motor though. It shouldn’t be connected to same earth/wires at all…
Maybe I missed it in the video - where did you get the cells, and what was the final weight of the loaded box?
Didn't mention these. I got them from nkon.nl-webstore. Specs say that one cell weights 1980g. So that times sixteen is about 32kg. Plus the box and BMS. I'd say it's quite close to 35kg altogether.
In comparison, one 100Ah lead acid battery I had weights 21kg. So the weight got down from 84kg to 35kg and the available capacity more than doubled.
Hello,
I have the GM 5kW Motor and also have a big problem with the Hall sensors. It turned out that it wasn't the sensors but just bad cable contacts.
Unfortunately, the engine control units only use very low signal levels so that any contact corrosion leads to problems.
Best regards
Philipp
Interesting! I got new motor ordered. I will try to fix the old though. I think it’s a good idea to really know what’s inside of these to be able to figure out possible problems anywhere in the world.
And compared to diesels these are actually super simple. 😊
I’ll let you know what the problem is/was!
@@ArcticSeaCamel Hello,
Dismantling the engine is not easy and not without danger. The magnets are extremely strong and want to pull the motor housing together. If you want to disassemble it, I recommend clamping the motor in a lathe with an appropriate auxiliary device, otherwise it will be difficult to align and assemble it precisely. If there is any skin near the assembly joint, it will be bloody.
Inside there is a slider with extremely strong fixed magnets. A track with smaller magnets is installed on the slider disc, which drives the Hall sensors.
The Hall sensors are installed on a small circuit board. Three series resistors are installed on the circuit board to protect the Hall sensors. These are not pull-up resistors! The pull-up resistors are set by the microcontroller in the control unit. Opening the control unit is not a major problem, but the circuit board is very tightly packed and it is difficult to recognise anything.
In my experience, it is not worth opening the motor, if something is faulty, a fixed magnet has come loose and you would hear it. The Hall sensors are very robust. However, you can measure the sensor signals. To do this, you need a power supply (3.3-24V optional) and a pulse resistor between the signal and Vcc (see data sheet "41F").
Then you can turn the motor by hand and use the multimeter to measure whether the Hall sensors switch or not. The control unit works with 3.3V, the high level should be well above 2.5V on all sensors with a 3.3V supply, otherwise it will not be recognised correctly.
Philipp Schlautmann
@@philippschlautmann7454 Thanks for the tips! I'll get back into this when I get the motor changed first (and just hoping the problem isn't with the motor controller...)
Shouldn't prismatic cells be compressed?
👋
I actually looked into this a little bit.
What I understood that compression can reduce the degradation of the cells when using them in high C rates.
In my case, I use them with very low rates and only few cycles in year.
So most of the degradation in my case comes just in time rather than usage anyway.
Interesting - these systems are very expensive to buy ...what are the costs of these units - and the weight? What kind of propeller are used? Can there be some kind of recharge while sailing?
They’re not that expensive by diy. The motor with controller was around 1000€ with tolls and taxes. This battery was about 700-800€ with the BMS.
Then there was all kind of small bits and bolts. I’d say you can build setup like this with 2000-2500$.
The most difficult part was to make the connection with the motor and sail drive. You can find some info about that from the old videos. 🙂
Love me some Dream Theater 👍🏽
🤘🏼🥁