Hurry up,Panu I have been watching your series from the very first episode.Unfortunately, I am 69 years old and I would really like to see it launched before I die 🙏
I'm glad I missed the first year. 69 episodes to get this? He must have a job/business that takes all his time. You'll never see this boat in the water. There's a guy Australia that's been building his Catamaran for years. I finally unsubsidized when I realized it would never happen. I also forgot about my own dreams of building one. A dinghy is more within my abilities. 😅
@@dreed7312 Rossco has been working hard and making all kinds of modifications over the project. Windows are in place and not too long for splash I'd say. 😅 These kind of things take time when you don't have a millionaire aunt financing it all. 😉 And yes, I have a job. This is a "spare time" hobby. And there's no financial sense to make these videos - which takes a lot of time as well. To finance all this with youtube only would require at least 100 times the subs and patrons etc. Maybe some day...? 😇
Great video. I had some rough idea and your video was excellent filling in and expanding the construction process. Please pin this video to the top of your channel playlist or so. It will be fun and exciting keep checking back as your construction continues.
A good plan! Supports for double keels should not pass through the skin. They must have a connection with the stem and the stern. With a central keel beam
Thanks for a great explanation Panu. It’s good to see the structure coming together even if it’s just on computer. Hopefully your weather starts warming up soon.
Thank you for the explanation on how you see this boat being fabricated. Made a lot of sense and allows for some thinking ahead of the bigger picture. This will be very interesting to see and makes the finished product highly anticipated.
Panu, think about moving front cleats 2 meters back or make another set of cleats 2m behind front cleats. That's common problem with the big boats in most of the marinas, mooring lines will run too steep down and instead of pulling the boat ahead will pull it down.
That computer program is great to work with, as I used to work with them many years ago while building dies for manufacturing car body body components for a large car company.
Thank you for explaining the plan! Lot's of work! One idea you have probably thought of is when you shape the oak footing for the keels, instead of shaping to the line of the hull, you could shape out and make those oak pieces the first smooth curves from the hull out to joint the keel??!! Hope that makes sense! I'm thinking it would be less CNC removal of material as the oak beam is shaped out off the hull, and then the oak is also the strongest it can be because the full size would be available to then joint to the keel.
Thanks! I have some sort of idea how these are going to come up. Quite impossible to try to describe it here though! But bending oak into shape like that is probably impossible or very hard to do. nevertheless, I need a flat surface to install the actual keel shapes on right locations and in right angles. We'll see how that comes eventually... 😅
The chain will go over the front section of the deck and then into pipe through the front cabin. I think it’s a good idea to have it visible a little bit to see markings on the chain and to be able to wash it if needed?
Great job on this video! Design is the part I am really into. I think most viewers don't fully grasp that this is a wood build, but NOT TRADITIONAL. The result can be both stiffer and lighter than traditional methods, and in addition to replacing a dozen skilled woodworkers with one (highly skilled) CNC worker, this boat doesn't need to be built out of just the hearts of only the best trees. The variable rib spacing looks extreme but I guess that has much to do with the pilothouse design being over both the keels and a mast. I would have expected grid of semi-bulkheads up to a raised floor level rather than so many ribs.
From the perspective of subscribers/viewers I think it would be good to tap into the CNC/tech interest. I see CNC being used to no benefit on other channels. The traditional wood boat channels have lots of characters toiling away to relate to every week. I also think that too much of the general public think that traditional wooden boat building is "sustainable" when the truth is that traditional wood shipbuilding is how Europe was deforested. It is also true that US independence is due in part to having the forests to build warships vs Europe. The most "sustainable" wood boatbuilding is not traditional, it is how you are doing it.
Yep. I think so too that this method is probably the most ecological way to go. No special or tropical timber needed. There’s plastics involved but traditional boats need lead compound and other very toxic things to keep them going. Thank you, I have to keep the CNC more on the frame in future anyway. There’s many things to cut in coming weeks and months.
As a lifelong sailor and professional engineer I have two suggestions: 1. Please don't put the cleats on the bulwarks. The cleats will be subject to tremendous loads and you'll be trusting your entire boat to them on a regular basis. 2. CNC and 3D CAD are great, but as you get into the advanced stages of the build, the actual assembly will be different from you 3D model. So if you're going to use a model and cut 3D parts you need to measure the attachment points to be sure that the part will fit.
Hi thanks for your comment! 1. As mentioned, I haven't really decided yet where to put the cleats. On bulwarks, they would be nicely off the deck. I also mentioned that on Moody 54DS they're in similar location. You can look that here: th-cam.com/video/uja8bV7NxS0/w-d-xo.html I've also understood that it's actually better to have the rope right in cleat rather having separate "chafing point". (like if the cleat's on the deck and there's through-hole in the bulwark where rope can move slightly when bouncing on the dock...). So if production boat can make it work, so can I. :) 2. Yes of course. The hard part has been to use proper tolerances. With plywood, it seems to be 0,4mm. So I'm hoping that everything will be within that! 🤣 No, really. I'm assuming that fitting the frames for example will encounter some kind of fiddling. The hardest part of the boat must be the stem which is already mostly done. Interior etc. should be piece of cake after these. 😊😅
You have made a lot of progress in the CAD model, that is a very useful tool. I was thinking about one aspect of the build process while you were explaining that the yacht will be built up-side-down, how will you lift the planked hull once you are ready to flip the hull over? With the top of the bulworks so low to the ground, you will have difficulties lifting the hull. It might be a good idea to place straps on the floor under the yacht before you begin planking the hulls.
There’s gap between the shed floor and bulwarks. Something probably can fit there to lift it up enough to get wheels underneath. Maybe some kind of steel accessory…? We’ll see! 😅
Wow this will be exciting to follow. Also glad to see you more enthusiastic than last time... Will you have a telescopic crane to lift the heavy elements? Good luck with the different steps!
We'll see if there's need for crane. Propably the frames can be lifted with couple of dudes. They're not that heavy, but they're just quite big and their center of gravity is weird!
Hi Paul. Great to see your latest video. The explanation was terrific. It has helped me to understand the process. Are you doing all the design from the start or are you following some other plans? I think it is all you. Very talented. Well done. Cannot wait to see future progress.
The hull and structures are designed by Yves-Marie Tanton. He’s very skilled and experienced naval architect and have done tens or hundreds of designs for boats with free standing masts.
Very good overview description. You have problems with the temperature in the hall, You have said many times. Last episode you were about to isolate the entire hall. But I ask, isn't it easier to build thermally insulated spaces where it is actually needed? Around the hull and gluetable, for example. A simple truss, walls and ceiling, filled with mineral wool and a windproof or polyethylene layer to keep the wool in place? It gives some limitations, where to place openings, e.g. but the heating of a smaller volume (air heat pump) becomes more economical.
I really want to have all the tools and materials in the “warm” space as well. One unexpected issue with the tent is that it tends to condense water and frost to the inner surface. And when temps raise above zero it all drips down. Making my CNC machine and everything wet. Now when I have some of the insulation there already, it seems to prevent dripping well.
Of course, it is a big advantage to have the entire hall heated, but it is a large volume with a high ceiling. OK, on days when it's very cold outside, you can take a break. We await with great curiosity the choice of material for the hull. We wish you the best.
@@karelundberg9523 Yes exactly. There's no point even try to heat the hall when it's -25°C outside. Fortunately those temps are not that common. Here in southern Finland temps go up and down all the time depending of the low pressure's movements from Atlantic. January was actually very cold this year. But now there has been couple of weeks very mild temps going around -5 to +3. Next week is going to be bit colder again. Keeping things dry is as important. And even slight heating helps with that alot. Cold air generally is very dry and when it's heated, the relative humidity drops even more.
I have no technical skills but I know I wouldn't have those larger gaps between frames that you will be filling with temporary molds to assist with the planking. I would also want the keel steel brace frames to be formed out of one piece each to keep all the relevant parts precisely alligned and joined for strength. Very interesting build
The wood-epoxy hull structure is very strong by itself. Most boats like this don’t have frames at all, just some plywood bulkheads. The rig chosen here brings the need for frames. And I didn’t want any stringers either. The oak pieces between there is the structure to keep keels on their places. The steel parts are there only to spread the load from the bolts. Wood is bit soft after all. I have no doubt of their ability to hold things on their place.
Very nice.. The extra wide spacing between some of the frames, a more detailed explanation as to why would have been appreciated.. structurally they must not be needed to be closer, but it's the why part... I'm very nosey..😉🙂👍
Those vertical strips in the keel molds seem to thin. Would they not buckle in and out and move the position of the keel? Some more strips or gussets across them perhaps?
You are installing quite solid deck stringers (your yellow-greenish bars which are effectively the upper closures of the frames.With these and the bulky keel parts you seem to loose quite some inner cabin height -s this your intention?
Hi! If you mean the "side moldings" (or whatever they're called) at 7:09, they're underneath the side decks that are not actually very wide in the first place. So there's actually not that much room under there anyway. The main areas will be in the center with raised saloon. There's couple of videos about that about two years back. (I probably need to make an update video of the design at some point. In video th-cam.com/video/_YyvMEI_6e4/w-d-xo.html you can see probably the latest iteration...
Great video, I do agree with the floor/bracing for the rudder. What are your plans fir the engine room floor/bracing? You would still need support their and it seems to me that it would be easier before planking also. Just a thought. I love what you are doing and I'm happy to see you in better spirits.
Most probably there will be two electric motors on sail drives behind the keels. No idea of the details of those yet. Anyway there will not be traditional diesel engine on traditional location so no structures for that. ☺️
Panu, thanks for a great explainer. You may have covered this: how many man-hours to build? I would guess 25,000. Or equivalent to 20,000 Panu-hours. Close?
Any sailor going off shore might profit from watching the movie All is Lost. There some criticisms that might be made, but remember, for example, this was before GPS became generally available.
He just barely manages to survive despite almost sinking more than once. One inaccuracy is he seems to take sun sightings with hardly moving his sextant.@@ArcticSeaCamel
Hi, thanks for the question. 🙂 No I haven’t. Actually I still haven’t done that much design work for them either. Tech goes forward very fast all the time and I think if I do something now, it will be old rather quickly. But I think there will be general plumbing and electric routes to be done quite early stage. One thing is that I’m gonna have pretty simple plumbing system with only one head and galley - and they’re right next to each other. 🙂
@@ArcticSeaCamel Hydronic heating system? May not work with all-electric unless you use some heat pump i guess. Are there any marine Water/Water heat pumps?
an air based heat delivery may work better for cooling in the tropics... imagine sailing in the indian ocean at the equator... generating from propeller and some solar, driving your heatpump cooling inside your boat... outside 31, inside 22.... Why not using your keels for cooling/heating loop?
I have few thoughts about this. First of all the boat should be well insulated all over and be water- and air tight to keep heat and/or cool inside. That way the amount of energy needed for heating/cooling should be significantly less than with "normal" boats. For arctic environment I think there's just no way to manage heating without some sort of fuel. Burning diesel gives effieciency of 100%. Heat pump should bring efficiency of 300% (with electricity), but I'd need to produce that somehow still - which propably requires fuel. So I think that in every case there will be a diesel tank and most propably small diesel generator for the times there's no sun and/or wind available. (I'd love to see the development of linear movement generators go forward...). So in that regard the heat pump might actually be feasible option. Also there should be a heat recovery in ventilation system (which should be done as well to change air in controlled way inside the airtight boat). That way the heating could work well with just heating air. And yes, I have also thought of using keel(s) as condenser(s). I'd like to avoid pumping raw seawater inside for cooling purposes. Actually, there should be need for only single through-hull; seawater for galley, anchor chain washer etc.
Yes, mostly there will be. Still haven't figured out all the details and if i should perhaps to put some protective fiberglass there. Years ago when I was figuring all this out, I imagined that space could have been utilized somehow for storing lines, solar panels etc. But in reality the gap is too small for that (and to do any kind of access there)
Hi! This is wooden boat but very different method than those (amazing!) projects. They're more like traditional wooden boats. This is modern wood-epoxy composite. This means that I don't need to use dense and heavy (and expensive + rare) hardwoods to build this. The lamination compensates the "defects" of the normal wood and epoxy protects from water. Hoping that there's audience for this system as well. ☺️
@@ArcticSeaCamel, 'NEW' school builds are very interesting indeed. Their are even rebuilds using laminated foam using epoxies & glass reinforcement. 👍🏼👏👏👏
Very good overview description. You have problems with the temperature in the hall, You have said many times. Last episode you were about to isolate the entire hall. But I ask, isn't it easier to build thermally insulated spaces where it is actually needed? Around the hull and gluetable, for example. A simple truss, walls and ceiling, filled with mineral wool and a windproof or polyethylene layer to keep the wool in place? It gives some limitations, where to place openings, e.g. but the heating of a smaller volume (air heat pump) becomes more economical.
@@karelundberg9523 I really want to keep also all the tools in warm and dry. The most annoying (and unexpected) problem is that when temp rises above zero, moisture condensates under the tent and then drip and wet things underneath. Insulation is way under way now, not much left :)
The start of your process looks like RM Yacht's. I believe it's beneficial that you have thought about the build process in detail and use modern technologies like CNC cut parts; not doing so would be crazy. Cheers.
Yes, wood epoxy it is. Although I believe RM Yachts seems to do it mainly with plywood. The key difference here is the rig and its requirements for the hull rigidity. Without stays and shrouds all the mast forces are led to the hull via these frames. "Traditional" wood-epoxy boats may not have those at all, just plywood bulkheads. My boat won't actually (if I've understood right) need any structural bulkheads.
There's actually video of the outside and rig here: th-cam.com/video/ojRZfJHzs0I/w-d-xo.html The rig type is called "Cat Ketch" (or maybe Cat Schooner). It has two free standing masts and they both rotate as well. Sails will be identical. There's many benefits of this explained here for example: tantonyachtdesign.blogspot.com/2013/07/ketch-cat-if-you-can.html ericwsponberg.com/free-standing-mast-designs/
Hi my name is keith and I just discovered your channel, I would like to give you a word of advice if I may, stay away from wood in your boat build use foam core with a layer of fiberglass on top see channel life on the hulls for guidence episode number 063 he buys 2400 x 12 sheets then puts a layer of glass top and bottom then he can cut them into whatever shape he requires, no rot later, plywood will rot no matter how you protect it and it's heavey. regards keith
Still people don't know why you're building it in a different way. RAN will not need as many frames as your boat. But no one knows why. Except for naval architects like mine probably. Don't explain it to me, tell everyone.
Hurry up,Panu I have been watching your series from the very first episode.Unfortunately, I am 69 years old and I would really like to see it launched before I die 🙏
I try my best! 🥺
It’s all about time and money of course… 😔
I'm glad I missed the first year. 69 episodes to get this? He must have a job/business that takes all his time. You'll never see this boat in the water. There's a guy Australia that's been building his Catamaran for years. I finally unsubsidized when I realized it would never happen. I also forgot about my own dreams of building one. A dinghy is more within my abilities. 😅
@@dreed7312 Rossco has been working hard and making all kinds of modifications over the project. Windows are in place and not too long for splash I'd say. 😅
These kind of things take time when you don't have a millionaire aunt financing it all. 😉
And yes, I have a job. This is a "spare time" hobby. And there's no financial sense to make these videos - which takes a lot of time as well. To finance all this with youtube only would require at least 100 times the subs and patrons etc. Maybe some day...? 😇
Excellent explanation! I am fascinated watching your approach as opposed to Ran’s. it makes watching both that much more interesting.
Great video. I had some rough idea and your video was excellent filling in and expanding the construction process. Please pin this video to the top of your channel playlist or so. It will be fun and exciting keep checking back as your construction continues.
Thanks! This was exactly the idea! To give a good idea what’s going to happen here. 😊
Pure wizardry as usual. machine on!
Thank you, Panu, this is a dream boat, take your time, no need to rush your project, just enjoy it.
A good plan! Supports for double keels should not pass through the skin. They must have a connection with the stem and the stern. With a central keel beam
Thanks for a great explanation Panu. It’s good to see the structure coming together even if it’s just on computer. Hopefully your weather starts warming up soon.
It has been fool’s spring for couple of days. Second winter is coming next week I believe. Only few more winters to go before actual spring. 😆
What you are calling the side moulding is actually the beam shelf in boat parlance.
That’s what they were called in the plans. I don’t know half of the terms and even less in Finnish! 😅
Its going to be a strong boat thats for sure!...makes a lot sense to do a lot before planking....
Panu, how many patrons do you have now? I hope a bunch are supporting you!
Hi Paul! There’s 31 brave souls right now 🙂
Thank you for the explanation on how you see this boat being fabricated. Made a lot of sense and allows for some thinking ahead of the bigger picture. This will be very interesting to see and makes the finished product highly anticipated.
Panu, think about moving front cleats 2 meters back or make another set of cleats 2m behind front cleats. That's common problem with the big boats in most of the marinas, mooring lines will run too steep down and instead of pulling the boat ahead will pull it down.
Thanks! This is very good idea! There’s no problem to add as many cleats as needed. Maybe I’ll do same to the stern! 🙂
You make yourself clear with the 3D projection interesting way off building 👌
Good video and overview of the process ahead- and talking about heads - nice head sharpening.😉👍⛵️
Fantastic video! A very good idea for us to follow along and understand the process. Very exciting. ⛵️🇫🇮🇨🇦
Thanks 👍
That computer program is great to work with, as I used to work with them many years ago while building dies for manufacturing car body body components for a large car company.
Thank you for explaining the plan! Lot's of work! One idea you have probably thought of is when you shape the oak footing for the keels, instead of shaping to the line of the hull, you could shape out and make those oak pieces the first smooth curves from the hull out to joint the keel??!! Hope that makes sense! I'm thinking it would be less CNC removal of material as the oak beam is shaped out off the hull, and then the oak is also the strongest it can be because the full size would be available to then joint to the keel.
Thanks! I have some sort of idea how these are going to come up. Quite impossible to try to describe it here though! But bending oak into shape like that is probably impossible or very hard to do. nevertheless, I need a flat surface to install the actual keel shapes on right locations and in right angles. We'll see how that comes eventually... 😅
Now is the time to design a chain channel under the deck so no messy chain on top. Looks fantastic.
The chain will go over the front section of the deck and then into pipe through the front cabin. I think it’s a good idea to have it visible a little bit to see markings on the chain and to be able to wash it if needed?
Great job on this video! Design is the part I am really into. I think most viewers don't fully grasp that this is a wood build, but NOT TRADITIONAL. The result can be both stiffer and lighter than traditional methods, and in addition to replacing a dozen skilled woodworkers with one (highly skilled) CNC worker, this boat doesn't need to be built out of just the hearts of only the best trees.
The variable rib spacing looks extreme but I guess that has much to do with the pilothouse design being over both the keels and a mast. I would have expected grid of semi-bulkheads up to a raised floor level rather than so many ribs.
From the perspective of subscribers/viewers I think it would be good to tap into the CNC/tech interest. I see CNC being used to no benefit on other channels. The traditional wood boat channels have lots of characters toiling away to relate to every week. I also think that too much of the general public think that traditional wooden boat building is "sustainable" when the truth is that traditional wood shipbuilding is how Europe was deforested. It is also true that US independence is due in part to having the forests to build warships vs Europe.
The most "sustainable" wood boatbuilding is not traditional, it is how you are doing it.
Yep. I think so too that this method is probably the most ecological way to go. No special or tropical timber needed. There’s plastics involved but traditional boats need lead compound and other very toxic things to keep them going.
Thank you, I have to keep the CNC more on the frame in future anyway. There’s many things to cut in coming weeks and months.
As a lifelong sailor and professional engineer I have two suggestions: 1. Please don't put the cleats on the bulwarks. The cleats will be subject to tremendous loads and you'll be trusting your entire boat to them on a regular basis. 2. CNC and 3D CAD are great, but as you get into the advanced stages of the build, the actual assembly will be different from you 3D model. So if you're going to use a model and cut 3D parts you need to measure the attachment points to be sure that the part will fit.
Hi thanks for your comment!
1. As mentioned, I haven't really decided yet where to put the cleats. On bulwarks, they would be nicely off the deck. I also mentioned that on Moody 54DS they're in similar location. You can look that here: th-cam.com/video/uja8bV7NxS0/w-d-xo.html
I've also understood that it's actually better to have the rope right in cleat rather having separate "chafing point". (like if the cleat's on the deck and there's through-hole in the bulwark where rope can move slightly when bouncing on the dock...). So if production boat can make it work, so can I. :)
2. Yes of course. The hard part has been to use proper tolerances. With plywood, it seems to be 0,4mm. So I'm hoping that everything will be within that! 🤣
No, really. I'm assuming that fitting the frames for example will encounter some kind of fiddling. The hardest part of the boat must be the stem which is already mostly done. Interior etc. should be piece of cake after these. 😊😅
You have made a lot of progress in the CAD model, that is a very useful tool.
I was thinking about one aspect of the build process while you were explaining that the yacht will be built up-side-down, how will you lift the planked hull once you are ready to flip the hull over?
With the top of the bulworks so low to the ground, you will have difficulties lifting the hull.
It might be a good idea to place straps on the floor under the yacht before you begin planking the hulls.
There’s gap between the shed floor and bulwarks. Something probably can fit there to lift it up enough to get wheels underneath. Maybe some kind of steel accessory…? We’ll see! 😅
Wow this will be exciting to follow. Also glad to see you more enthusiastic than last time... Will you have a telescopic crane to lift the heavy elements? Good luck with the different steps!
We'll see if there's need for crane. Propably the frames can be lifted with couple of dudes. They're not that heavy, but they're just quite big and their center of gravity is weird!
Panu, glad you seem to be in a better place from your last video, you seemed very dejected last time. good luck and solder on.
Looking forward to seeing this method of construction.
Hi Paul. Great to see your latest video. The explanation was terrific. It has helped me to understand the process. Are you doing all the design from the start or are you following some other plans? I think it is all you. Very talented. Well done. Cannot wait to see future progress.
The hull and structures are designed by Yves-Marie Tanton. He’s very skilled and experienced naval architect and have done tens or hundreds of designs for boats with free standing masts.
Fascinating Panu.
A lot clearer now.
Best of luck with the insulation.
Ciao.
Mark K
Barge M V Sarah
Ireland
Brilliant, but be sure to study the affects of electrolysis on any metal components that may not be visible after the build .
Yes, definitely!
Always extremely happy with your work, I will view and find anything I could help you with in the Build :)
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙂
Very good overview description. You have problems with the temperature in the hall, You have said many times. Last episode you were about to isolate the entire hall. But I ask, isn't it easier to build thermally insulated spaces where it is actually needed? Around the hull and gluetable, for example. A simple truss, walls and ceiling, filled with mineral wool and a windproof or polyethylene layer to keep the wool in place? It gives some limitations, where to place openings, e.g. but the heating of a smaller volume (air heat pump) becomes more economical.
I really want to have all the tools and materials in the “warm” space as well. One unexpected issue with the tent is that it tends to condense water and frost to the inner surface. And when temps raise above zero it all drips down. Making my CNC machine and everything wet. Now when I have some of the insulation there already, it seems to prevent dripping well.
Of course, it is a big advantage to have the entire hall heated, but it is a large volume with a high ceiling. OK, on days when it's very cold outside, you can take a break. We await with great curiosity the choice of material for the hull. We wish you the best.
@@karelundberg9523 Yes exactly. There's no point even try to heat the hall when it's -25°C outside. Fortunately those temps are not that common. Here in southern Finland temps go up and down all the time depending of the low pressure's movements from Atlantic. January was actually very cold this year. But now there has been couple of weeks very mild temps going around -5 to +3. Next week is going to be bit colder again.
Keeping things dry is as important. And even slight heating helps with that alot. Cold air generally is very dry and when it's heated, the relative humidity drops even more.
I have no technical skills but I know I wouldn't have those larger gaps between frames that you will be filling with temporary molds to assist with the planking. I would also want the keel steel brace frames to be formed out of one piece each to keep all the relevant parts precisely alligned and joined for strength. Very interesting build
The wood-epoxy hull structure is very strong by itself. Most boats like this don’t have frames at all, just some plywood bulkheads. The rig chosen here brings the need for frames. And I didn’t want any stringers either.
The oak pieces between there is the structure to keep keels on their places. The steel parts are there only to spread the load from the bolts. Wood is bit soft after all. I have no doubt of their ability to hold things on their place.
Very nice.. The extra wide spacing between some of the frames, a more detailed explanation as to why would have been appreciated.. structurally they must not be needed to be closer, but it's the why part... I'm very nosey..😉🙂👍
I may have to ask the designer! 😅
I may have to ask the designer! 😅
Those vertical strips in the keel molds seem to thin. Would they not buckle in and out and move the position of the keel? Some more strips or gussets across them perhaps?
Yes, not shown in the model but there will be some braces across them to keep them straight and on position.
You are installing quite solid deck stringers (your yellow-greenish bars which are effectively the upper closures of the frames.With these and the bulky keel parts you seem to loose quite some inner cabin height -s this your intention?
Hi!
If you mean the "side moldings" (or whatever they're called) at 7:09, they're underneath the side decks that are not actually very wide in the first place. So there's actually not that much room under there anyway. The main areas will be in the center with raised saloon. There's couple of videos about that about two years back. (I probably need to make an update video of the design at some point. In video th-cam.com/video/_YyvMEI_6e4/w-d-xo.html you can see probably the latest iteration...
Great video, I do agree with the floor/bracing for the rudder. What are your plans fir the engine room floor/bracing? You would still need support their and it seems to me that it would be easier before planking also. Just a thought. I love what you are doing and I'm happy to see you in better spirits.
Most probably there will be two electric motors on sail drives behind the keels. No idea of the details of those yet.
Anyway there will not be traditional diesel engine on traditional location so no structures for that. ☺️
Panu, thanks for a great explainer. You may have covered this: how many man-hours to build? I would guess 25,000. Or equivalent to 20,000 Panu-hours. Close?
I have no faintest idea! Hopefully faster than more traditional methods. 😅
Have you thought about asymmetrical twin keels, Panu?
Yes, they are asymmetrical twin keels! 🙂
Looks good.
Any sailor going off shore might profit from watching the movie All is Lost. There some criticisms that might be made, but remember, for example, this was before GPS became generally available.
Haven’t actually seen that. Is there something particular in mind?
(Btw, I have celestial navigation degree 😉)
He just barely manages to survive despite almost sinking more than once. One inaccuracy is he seems to take sun sightings with hardly moving his sextant.@@ArcticSeaCamel
Very nice! Are you going to laminate the wood center keel right on the molds? Thanks for posting your build.
Yep, that’s the plan.
Thanks, that is what I thought. Why try to make a seperate mold? Looking forward to it.@@ArcticSeaCamel
Are you going to have an thru propeller shaft ?
Most likely two saildrives behind the keels. So no - no propeller shaft.
Seems like you couldn't be more different than RAN's boat!
Well, material is the same! 😅
@@ArcticSeaCamel True!😎
Have you considered doing plumbing and electric conduits before planking?
Hi, thanks for the question. 🙂
No I haven’t. Actually I still haven’t done that much design work for them either. Tech goes forward very fast all the time and I think if I do something now, it will be old rather quickly.
But I think there will be general plumbing and electric routes to be done quite early stage.
One thing is that I’m gonna have pretty simple plumbing system with only one head and galley - and they’re right next to each other. 🙂
@@ArcticSeaCamel Hydronic heating system? May not work with all-electric unless you use some heat pump i guess. Are there any marine Water/Water heat pumps?
an air based heat delivery may work better for cooling in the tropics... imagine sailing in the indian ocean at the equator... generating from propeller and some solar, driving your heatpump cooling inside your boat... outside 31, inside 22.... Why not using your keels for cooling/heating loop?
I have few thoughts about this. First of all the boat should be well insulated all over and be water- and air tight to keep heat and/or cool inside. That way the amount of energy needed for heating/cooling should be significantly less than with "normal" boats.
For arctic environment I think there's just no way to manage heating without some sort of fuel. Burning diesel gives effieciency of 100%. Heat pump should bring efficiency of 300% (with electricity), but I'd need to produce that somehow still - which propably requires fuel.
So I think that in every case there will be a diesel tank and most propably small diesel generator for the times there's no sun and/or wind available. (I'd love to see the development of linear movement generators go forward...). So in that regard the heat pump might actually be feasible option.
Also there should be a heat recovery in ventilation system (which should be done as well to change air in controlled way inside the airtight boat). That way the heating could work well with just heating air.
And yes, I have also thought of using keel(s) as condenser(s). I'd like to avoid pumping raw seawater inside for cooling purposes. Actually, there should be need for only single through-hull; seawater for galley, anchor chain washer etc.
@@ArcticSeaCamel small sterling engine generator?
What are you planning to use for planking material?
Most likely spruce strips. On top of that there’s still couple of options; veneers+thin fiberglass or thicker fiberglass (like RAN did).
Great video. So, if I saw it right, there will be an empty space between the outside planking and the inside bulwark?
Yes, mostly there will be. Still haven't figured out all the details and if i should perhaps to put some protective fiberglass there.
Years ago when I was figuring all this out, I imagined that space could have been utilized somehow for storing lines, solar panels etc. But in reality the gap is too small for that (and to do any kind of access there)
Looking good. What is your frame/mould spacing. 👍
There's no regular spacing. The frames around the masts and keel are closer together. Others have slightly longer gaps.
bla bla det blir nog jättebra
After watching Acorn to Arabella and TallyHo builds with all their heavy timbers
Hi! This is wooden boat but very different method than those (amazing!) projects. They're more like traditional wooden boats. This is modern wood-epoxy composite.
This means that I don't need to use dense and heavy (and expensive + rare) hardwoods to build this. The lamination compensates the "defects" of the normal wood and epoxy protects from water.
Hoping that there's audience for this system as well. ☺️
@@ArcticSeaCamel, 'NEW' school builds are very interesting indeed. Their are even rebuilds using laminated foam using epoxies & glass reinforcement. 👍🏼👏👏👏
There is. Its interesting to see the use of currently available cheaper timber and modern chemicals
Very good overview description. You have problems with the temperature in the hall, You have said many times. Last episode you were about to isolate the entire hall. But I ask, isn't it easier to build thermally insulated spaces where it is actually needed? Around the hull and gluetable, for example. A simple truss, walls and ceiling, filled with mineral wool and a windproof or polyethylene layer to keep the wool in place? It gives some limitations, where to place openings, e.g. but the heating of a smaller volume (air heat pump) becomes more economical.
@@karelundberg9523 I really want to keep also all the tools in warm and dry. The most annoying (and unexpected) problem is that when temp rises above zero, moisture condensates under the tent and then drip and wet things underneath.
Insulation is way under way now, not much left :)
The start of your process looks like RM Yacht's. I believe it's beneficial that you have thought about the build process in detail and use modern technologies like CNC cut parts; not doing so would be crazy. Cheers.
Yes, wood epoxy it is. Although I believe RM Yachts seems to do it mainly with plywood.
The key difference here is the rig and its requirements for the hull rigidity. Without stays and shrouds all the mast forces are led to the hull via these frames. "Traditional" wood-epoxy boats may not have those at all, just plywood bulkheads. My boat won't actually (if I've understood right) need any structural bulkheads.
I don't see any head sails, just 2 mains ? Can you run through the sail plan sometime.
There's actually video of the outside and rig here:
th-cam.com/video/ojRZfJHzs0I/w-d-xo.html
The rig type is called "Cat Ketch" (or maybe Cat Schooner). It has two free standing masts and they both rotate as well. Sails will be identical. There's many benefits of this explained here for example:
tantonyachtdesign.blogspot.com/2013/07/ketch-cat-if-you-can.html
ericwsponberg.com/free-standing-mast-designs/
I should have expected a very clever and unusual solution. @@ArcticSeaCamel
Hi my name is keith and I just discovered your channel, I would like to give you a word of advice if I may, stay away from wood in your boat build use foam core with a layer of fiberglass on top see channel life on the hulls for guidence episode number 063 he buys 2400 x 12 sheets then puts a layer of glass top and bottom then he can cut them into whatever shape he requires, no rot later, plywood will rot no matter how you protect it and it's heavey. regards keith
You have clearly not paid attention. He’s building a wooden boat!
Still people don't know why you're building it in a different way. RAN will not need as many frames as your boat. But no one knows why. Except for naval architects like mine probably. Don't explain it to me, tell everyone.
Oh, that might be true… 🤔
Nice haircut
Thanks 😅
Nice haircut.
*promosm* 😏