In this video I'm going to show you how to replace both fuel filters in your 6.0/6.4 powerstroke diesel. It is a very simple job and takes minimal tools.
I'm proud to say I just learned how to change my fuel filters on my 2005 f250 6 l diesel from a kid half my age and I am not ashamed to say it thank you young man
You know, for what looks like a young kid, this video was very professional, and you are extremely informative, and Knowledgeable. Keep up the great work.
Excellent video, if you use a longer extension on the primary filter cap your ratchet will be in the clear behind the cross member, allowing for a bigger swings of the ratchet instead of minimal swings banging off of the driveshaft continuously.
Nicely done. It helped me out on my excursion. 36mm socket for the lower fuel filter with a 6mm hex key for the fuel separator drain. 24mm socket for the engine fuel filter.
Great instructions. The only thing you forgot to mention was that, when changing the primary filter under the truck, you'll need a large bowl to catch the gallon of fuel that drains out of the system.
Great video. The dealership just tried to charge me $721.83 to change these two fuel filters... I just did it myself for the cost of the filters for $61.09
Awesome video! One thing my uncle showed me to do to make the fuel filter under the truck easier to install was just put in inside the cap first. The fuel filter just clicks on with those clips on the top
The filter on the bottom of vehicle was a nightmare trying to undo the cap while fuel spilling in all different directions 😠 On the bright side my wife says I smell like a real man now, thanks to all that diesel spilling on me 😀 Thanks for the video!
@fortunatedad7695 I'm confused by that, I've seen a couple comments now saying to do that. But most videos, the mechanic says to drain that plug only until it goes from water to straight fuel, then tighten it back up and take a bath with the filter cap 😂 idk what to believe
@@joel.ha. what I learnt from working on my cars is if I don't want to get messy, hire a mechanic lol. I would suggest trying both ways and see which way works best for you and maybe along the way you find better techniques and then post a video for us :)
@fortunatedad7695 just moments ago I did it your way and it was way cleaner haha, the first time I did one I was soaked and fuel ran from the lower housing onto the rail and then way over to the passenger side of the truck. Both ways were pretty fun, I guess
ALWAYS DRAIN THE FUEL WATER SEPARATOR!!! I bought an 07 F250 that a week after I drove it home I had the Water in Fuel message up on the dashboard. So I did what everyone else does and watched 4 different videos on how to do it. I got me trusty oil pan and 6mm Allen Wrench socket and ratchet and climbed underneath the truck and found the"FUEL MANIFOLD" and the Water Fuel drain plug. Took my 6mm Allen socket and put it in the plug an tried to turn it with my hand and it moved a little so I kept turning it. I got about a 1/4 turn and the water started coming out so I let it run down my arm and into the pan. When I felt fuel coming out I "TRIED" to tighten the plug up, but it wouldn't tighten up. I pulled it out which really increased the flow and looked at the plug and 3/4 of the thread area was gone. So I put it back in as good as I could to stop the flow of fuel to just a dribble and went in search of something, anything to plug the hole until I could go to the dealership (because they were closed) to get one. I found a small rubber radiator plug that I could tighten to stop the flow completely. I took the old one to the parts department the next morning in my other truck to make sure I got the right one. They said that there was 2 different ones so I showed him mine and he said that I definitely needed a new one but that wasn't the worst one that he had seen. He said one came in with fuel coming out of the 6mm Allen hole in the plug. I wish I could show a picture of mine. It had a triangle from the plug with 2 threads on it. The only thing that was holding it in was road grime and the will of God. They are known to rust if the water isn't drained regularly. I ordered one from Amazon that is bilitted Aluminum and it has a T shape at the backside of the plug that is also threaded so if you take the plug out it doesn't fall into the pan. (They make them for oil and transmission drains too!) I'll put that one on when I change the fuel filters for the first time and the stock will go into the glove box just in case. So long story short, If you haven't been draining your water/fuel separator, or you don't know if yours has been draining regularly. Get a new plug just in case because NONE OF THE VIDIOS THAT I WATCHED WARNED ME ABOUT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN!
Good job, man! The only objection I have is letting fuel from engine filter drip back in. The outside is the "dirty" side of filter! I just use a coffee can lid, or small pan to prevent drips. Nice vid tho! Keep em comin..
@@j.r.w7636 if you haven't already figured it out already, yes both filters come in the Motorcraft 4616 box . And be sure to get the weep hole orientation to the top when installing the big filter it has a tab the should catch to keep the hole to the top side. Perhaps start with the weep hole @ the 9 o'clock position then push the filter in and then turn the filter clock wise and the tab should stop it at the 12 o'clock position. And usually using a socket on the top cap will prevent cracking the cap or stripping it. And use a 6mm hex to drain the water separator 1st. And when finished cycle the key to on engine off position 3 times to get fuel back into the system.
Several times I've found the upper filter lid too tight, and the 1/2 drive tries to split the plastic. If you use a wrench,15/16" that will re-enforce the outer hex so the 1/2 ratchet will work and not ruin the lid. Thanks,good vid .
I read this too late. I used the 1/2 inch drive and split the cap. Then I got the 24mm socket and it stripped the cap completely (probably due to the fact that I split it...). Then I got clamps to hold the thing together while trying the 1/2 drive again...and it ripped it completely off! I had to saw the cap in half and then chisel it off piece by piece...a 10 minute job turned into a couple hours. The cap was $50 to replace. Lesson learned. I still appreciate the video as it was straight forward and gave me the confidence to do the job myself. I do suggest using the 24mm socket on the top filter though.
This is helpful because I'm about to do my first 6.0. But I'm not going to spin and drain the dirty filter over the canister so everything the element has captured goes right into what is supposed to be clean?
Great video I just got my 2003 6 L diesel engine F350 back up and running after sitting for 6 years I replaced the batteries and drained the fuel water separator and it fired right up when 6 year old diesel fuel in the tank I had a half a tank in there but one thing I forgot about was all the condensation and crap that were built in the tank after sitting so long it ran fine for about an hour or so but after letting it sit for a few hours I went back out to Crank It Up and it started initially but sputtered and died so more than likely I clogged both fuel filters hopefully I didn't clog the injectors
6 years? wow. I am always afraid that my truck wont start after 10 months. I know you need to put some extra stuff to the gas, or it wont work after 12 months, but I have never seen that liquid for Diesel... so does Diesel last forever?
Use a 2 - 2 1/2 foot extension - much easier, good video, wear safety glasses , gloves and always replace old o-rings. And drain the water catch housing first.
ALWAYS DRAIN THE FUEL WATER SEPARATOR!!! I bought an 07 F250 that a week after I drove it home I had the Water in Fuel message up on the dashboard. So I did what everyone else does and watched 4 different videos on how to do it. I got me trusty oil pan and 6mm Allen Wrench socket and ratchet and climbed underneath the truck and found the"FUEL MANIFOLD" and the Water Fuel drain plug. Took my 6mm Allen socket and put it in the plug an tried to turn it with my hand and it moved a little so I kept turning it. I got about a 1/4 turn and the water started coming out so I let it run down my arm and into the pan. When I felt fuel coming out I "TRIED" to tighten the plug up, but it wouldn't tighten up. I pulled it out which really increased the flow and looked at the plug and 3/4 of the thread area was gone. So I put it back in as good as I could to stop the flow of fuel to just a dribble and went in search of something, anything to plug the hole until I could go to the dealership (because they were closed) to get one. I found a small rubber radiator plug that I could tighten to stop the flow completely. I took the old one to the parts department the next morning in my other truck to make sure I got the right one. They said that there was 2 different ones so I showed him mine and he said that I definitely needed a new one but that wasn't the worst one that he had seen. He said one came in with fuel coming out of the 6mm Allen hole in the plug. I wish I could show a picture of mine. It had a triangle from the plug with 2 threads on it. The only thing that was holding it in was road grime and the will of God. They are known to rust if the water isn't drained regularly. I ordered one from Amazon that is bilitted Aluminum and it has a T shape at the backside of the plug that is also threaded so if you take the plug out it doesn't fall into the pan. (They make them for oil and transmission drains too!) I'll put that one on when I change the fuel filters for the first time and the stock will go into the glove box just in case. So long story short, If you haven't been draining your water/fuel separator, or you don't know if yours has been draining regularly. Get a new plug just in case because NONE OF THE VIDIOS THAT I WATCHED WARNED ME ABOUT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN!
Thanks. Wasn't sure about the one on the frame rail. I knew about the one on top. Can you do a video about draining the water from the water separator?
You forgot to install the new o-ring on the upper filter's cap. You also forgot about how to ensure the weep hole is "up" on the lower filter. The lower filter doesn't "screw in", you simply push it into the housing.
I have a vt365 bus I am about to do the fuel filter. I always see people using a small valve thing to drain the fuel out of the filter housing and cleaning the sediment out and then put in a new filter. Then they have the bleed the air out of it somehow. You seemed to not have to do all that? I know the vt365 is similar to the 6.0 power stroke so I’m hoping mine is simple like this
6mm hex wrench, to the right of the filter cap towards the front of the truck. The Allen head bleeder port bolt is in a tight spot between the filter housing and the front drive shaft. Be slow and careful when taking it out, if you're not it will pop out quick and you'll be taking a bath in diesel fuel.
Do both filters come in the same box? Or are they both the same filters and I need to get 2? And do I neeed to do anything with the fuel water separator?
That's the way ford tells you to do it and it will not kill glow plugs. I have cycled the key for glow plug up to 14 times for a 5 degree cold start last winter and my glow plugs are just fine
I don't understand the constant changing of filters with the reformulated diesel we use today. I understand doing maintenance to keep your warranty valid but it would be nice if you showed the dirty filter and rated its dirt level and commented on lower performance or whatever the issue for changing them so soon is. The truck doesn't just stop when they get dirty to a certain point, does it?
True diesel is cleaner, but the filters are much finer to protect the fancy modern injectors. The primary one filters down to 10 micron and the secondary one filters down to three microns. To put this in perspective, a single red blood cell is EIGHT microns in diameter! Needless to say, as a result of this super fine filtration, they clog faster than the older filters. Will your truck suddenly stop with a partially clogged filter? No. It will start and run just fine. However, when you are pulling a big trailer up a steep mountain grade; injectors dumping as much fuel as they possibly can into the engine, your fuel pressure could start to drop. And running hard, high RPM, hot temperatures, a little injector suddeny stops getting fuel. And without lubrication or cooling from the fuel, the tiny injector tip seizes shut. And you have a dead injector. Or worse, you end up with diesel knock and a hole in your piston. Moral of the story, just change them every 50k like the manual says. Why chance it?
Absolutely especially with a 6.0l when the filter gets clogged up fuel will not pass and it will not get appropriate fuel pressure and also it keeps shit from the picky injectors the 6.0l has compared to the simple 7.3 injectors
![POLYCAT - ข้อความรูปยิ้ม [Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lBhIgPGCgbI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm proud to say I just learned how to change my fuel filters on my 2005 f250 6 l diesel from a kid half my age and I am not ashamed to say it thank you young man
How many miles u have on ur truck?
You know, for what looks like a young kid, this video was very professional, and you are extremely informative, and Knowledgeable. Keep up the great work.
Indeed
I'm literally doing this tomorrow and now i know exactly where everything is. I agree with your statement, nice work.
6 years after video was posted. This guy helped me out with my first diesel!
Wow a diesel way to go
As a master mechanic and aircraft maintenance instructor, I want to say well done. Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time.
Thank ya! Just turned my 45 min job into a 15 min job. Love when ppl actually show and explain what to do
Excellent video, if you use a longer extension on the primary filter cap your ratchet will be in the clear behind the cross member, allowing for a bigger swings of the ratchet instead of minimal swings banging off of the driveshaft continuously.
Thank you so much for making this video! My sister and I were quoted almost $500 to change these filters. We did it for less than $100!
Nicely done. It helped me out on my excursion. 36mm socket for the lower fuel filter with a 6mm hex key for the fuel separator drain. 24mm socket for the engine fuel filter.
They made excursions with 6.0 powerstrokes?
@@redneckpyromania6965 Yes sir. The 7.3 and then the 6.0 powerstrokes, of course the V10 was available before Ford dumped the Excursion
@@tedgifford1627 wow
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated
Great video! DO NOT unscrew the cap as shown in the video, use a 15/16th! Trust me, these caps are plastic and fracture with ease.
Def right about that. I bought different caps!
Great instructions. The only thing you forgot to mention was that, when changing the primary filter under the truck, you'll need a large bowl to catch the gallon of fuel that drains out of the system.
Actually he did say you want to have a drain pan or something ready to catch it.
@@atheldownyes but not how large of one. There's a LOT of fuel that drains out of the system.
Great video. The dealership just tried to charge me $721.83 to change these two fuel filters... I just did it myself for the cost of the filters for $61.09
Jesus Christ. That’s insane
FNA!!!!
Wow highway robbery, that's why I hate dealerships
Awesome video! One thing my uncle showed me to do to make the fuel filter under the truck easier to install was just put in inside the cap first. The fuel filter just clicks on with those clips on the top
Fantastic work bud! No one ever gives landmarks while under the truck.
The filter on the bottom of vehicle was a nightmare trying to undo the cap while fuel spilling in all different directions 😠
On the bright side my wife says I smell like a real man now, thanks to all that diesel spilling on me 😀
Thanks for the video!
There's a drain on the hfcm, use that and this job will be a whole lot less messy. I found this out after the fact lol
@fortunatedad7695 I'm confused by that, I've seen a couple comments now saying to do that. But most videos, the mechanic says to drain that plug only until it goes from water to straight fuel, then tighten it back up and take a bath with the filter cap 😂 idk what to believe
@@joel.ha. what I learnt from working on my cars is if I don't want to get messy, hire a mechanic lol.
I would suggest trying both ways and see which way works best for you and maybe along the way you find better techniques and then post a video for us :)
@fortunatedad7695 just moments ago I did it your way and it was way cleaner haha, the first time I did one I was soaked and fuel ran from the lower housing onto the rail and then way over to the passenger side of the truck. Both ways were pretty fun, I guess
Thank you for the information, I broke down on the side of the road, went and changed the fuel filters, now the truck runs fine. Thank you again.
America should have some kind of award that citizens can petition to give people as thorough, brief, friendly, and helpful as this fellow.
He’s Canadian bro 😎
You should also drain the fuel water separator. There is always gunk and crap in it too. Great video though!
Where is the fuel water separator
@@eles1089 its down on the fuel pump on the side facing out it takes a allen wrench to take plug out
Superb video.
I'm computer guy but now I know I can do this myself.
Thanks man
ALWAYS DRAIN THE FUEL WATER SEPARATOR!!!
I bought an 07 F250 that a week after I drove it home I had the Water in Fuel message up on the dashboard. So I did what everyone else does and watched 4 different videos on how to do it. I got me trusty oil pan and 6mm Allen Wrench socket and ratchet and climbed underneath the truck and found the"FUEL MANIFOLD" and the Water Fuel drain plug. Took my 6mm Allen socket and put it in the plug an tried to turn it with my hand and it moved a little so I kept turning it. I got about a 1/4 turn and the water started coming out so I let it run down my arm and into the pan. When I felt fuel coming out I "TRIED" to tighten the plug up, but it wouldn't tighten up.
I pulled it out which really increased the flow and looked at the plug and
3/4 of the thread area was gone.
So I put it back in as good as I could to stop the flow of fuel to just a dribble and went in search of something, anything to plug the hole until I could go to the dealership (because they were closed) to get one. I found a small rubber radiator plug that I could tighten to stop the flow completely. I took the old one to the parts department the next morning in my other truck to make sure I got the right one. They said that there was 2 different ones so I showed him mine and he said that I definitely needed a new one but that wasn't the worst one that he had seen. He said one came in with fuel coming out of the 6mm Allen hole in the plug. I wish I could show a picture of mine. It had a triangle from the plug with 2 threads on it.
The only thing that was holding it in was road grime and the will of God.
They are known to rust if the water isn't drained regularly.
I ordered one from Amazon that is bilitted Aluminum and it has a T shape at the backside of the plug that is also threaded so if you take the plug out it doesn't fall into the pan. (They make them for oil and transmission drains too!) I'll put that one on when I change the fuel filters for the first time and the stock will go into the glove box just in case.
So long story short, If you haven't been draining your water/fuel separator, or you don't know if yours has been draining regularly. Get a new plug just in case because NONE OF THE VIDIOS THAT I WATCHED WARNED ME ABOUT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN!
Great video! Don’t forget to replace those O rings that’s included with the filters. 👍
Are you saying to not use the new o-ring that comes with the new filter?
@@joel.ha.he’s saying to switch the o rings that go on the caps just above the threads.
Good job, man! The only objection I have is letting fuel from engine filter drip back in. The outside is the "dirty" side of filter! I just use a coffee can lid, or small pan to prevent drips. Nice vid tho! Keep em comin..
I Agree!
Do both filters come in one box and are they different sizes
@@j.r.w7636 if you haven't already figured it out already, yes both filters come in the Motorcraft 4616 box . And be sure to get the weep hole orientation to the top when installing the big filter it has a tab the should catch to keep the hole to the top side. Perhaps start with the weep hole @ the 9 o'clock position then push the filter in and then turn the filter clock wise and the tab should stop it at the 12 o'clock position. And usually using a socket on the top cap will prevent cracking the cap or stripping it. And use a 6mm hex to drain the water separator 1st. And when finished cycle the key to on engine off position 3 times to get fuel back into the system.
Fantastic video my man! Thank you. I didn't know where the lower filter even was before this. Got it done today!
Thanks so much! Saved us a ton of headaches when changing the filters in our truck!
Several times I've found the upper filter lid too tight, and the 1/2 drive tries to split the plastic. If you use a wrench,15/16" that will re-enforce the outer hex so the 1/2 ratchet will work and not ruin the lid. Thanks,good vid .
Jay Berry how do you get the lid off if the plastic is ripped so can’t get a wrench or anything to unscrew it
I broke mine doing that the first time and a new one was pricey. Great Tip!
Yup happend to me, my lid was spitting fuel, now I use a regular socket!! And that top is expensive, even on amazon!
Great tip Jay
I read this too late. I used the 1/2 inch drive and split the cap. Then I got the 24mm socket and it stripped the cap completely (probably due to the fact that I split it...). Then I got clamps to hold the thing together while trying the 1/2 drive again...and it ripped it completely off! I had to saw the cap in half and then chisel it off piece by piece...a 10 minute job turned into a couple hours. The cap was $50 to replace. Lesson learned. I still appreciate the video as it was straight forward and gave me the confidence to do the job myself. I do suggest using the 24mm socket on the top filter though.
Thank you, new to the 6.0 platform. This is the best video I’ve seen and answered every question I had!
Great job explaining fuel filters exchange
Thanks I was trying to surprise my boss by doing this for him and now I can
Thanks for the video just changed my fuel filters for the first time
Very articulate and well made, Thanks will do my 2005 6.0
This is helpful because I'm about to do my first 6.0. But I'm not going to spin and drain the dirty filter over the canister so everything the element has captured goes right into what is supposed to be clean?
You are one of the very few that explains things very well… bought my first diesel truck and know no details to it… thanks buddy!!
Jus changed my filter omg I feel like a boss 🤤😂🥰
Great video! Don't apologize for anything in your videos, your vid was perfect, you did a great job! 👍
Thanks for the video, fixed my old bucket truck and got the power back!
Great video I just got my 2003 6 L diesel engine F350 back up and running after sitting for 6 years I replaced the batteries and drained the fuel water separator and it fired right up when 6 year old diesel fuel in the tank I had a half a tank in there but one thing I forgot about was all the condensation and crap that were built in the tank after sitting so long it ran fine for about an hour or so but after letting it sit for a few hours I went back out to Crank It Up and it started initially but sputtered and died so more than likely I clogged both fuel filters hopefully I didn't clog the injectors
6 years? wow. I am always afraid that my truck wont start after 10 months. I know you need to put some extra stuff to the gas, or it wont work after 12 months, but I have never seen that liquid for Diesel... so does Diesel last forever?
Use a 2 - 2 1/2 foot extension - much easier, good video, wear safety glasses , gloves and always replace old o-rings. And drain the water catch housing first.
If he doesnt want to wear safety glasses or gloves then he doesnt have to.
ALWAYS DRAIN THE FUEL WATER SEPARATOR!!!
I bought an 07 F250 that a week after I drove it home I had the Water in Fuel message up on the dashboard. So I did what everyone else does and watched 4 different videos on how to do it. I got me trusty oil pan and 6mm Allen Wrench socket and ratchet and climbed underneath the truck and found the"FUEL MANIFOLD" and the Water Fuel drain plug. Took my 6mm Allen socket and put it in the plug an tried to turn it with my hand and it moved a little so I kept turning it. I got about a 1/4 turn and the water started coming out so I let it run down my arm and into the pan. When I felt fuel coming out I "TRIED" to tighten the plug up, but it wouldn't tighten up.
I pulled it out which really increased the flow and looked at the plug and
3/4 of the thread area was gone.
So I put it back in as good as I could to stop the flow of fuel to just a dribble and went in search of something, anything to plug the hole until I could go to the dealership (because they were closed) to get one. I found a small rubber radiator plug that I could tighten to stop the flow completely. I took the old one to the parts department the next morning in my other truck to make sure I got the right one. They said that there was 2 different ones so I showed him mine and he said that I definitely needed a new one but that wasn't the worst one that he had seen. He said one came in with fuel coming out of the 6mm Allen hole in the plug. I wish I could show a picture of mine. It had a triangle from the plug with 2 threads on it.
The only thing that was holding it in was road grime and the will of God.
They are known to rust if the water isn't drained regularly.
I ordered one from Amazon that is bilitted Aluminum and it has a T shape at the backside of the plug that is also threaded so if you take the plug out it doesn't fall into the pan. (They make them for oil and transmission drains too!) I'll put that one on when I change the fuel filters for the first time and the stock will go into the glove box just in case.
So long story short, If you haven't been draining your water/fuel separator, or you don't know if yours has been draining regularly. Get a new plug just in case because NONE OF THE VIDIOS THAT I WATCHED WARNED ME ABOUT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN!
@@garyargabrite1562 Thanks bud, how she running now?
very good, thank you. Thanks for the tip on using only Motocraft filters
Thanks. Wasn't sure about the one on the frame rail. I knew about the one on top. Can you do a video about draining the water from the water separator?
best video no Bullshit just what you need and you showed it I'm subscribing
Good video! Thank you! will do filters tomorrow!
Very good video. You saved me so much money dude. I appreciate it.
Thank you for the information on changing my fuel filters
Yup keep up on these services and yer motor will last my 03 6.0 is at 345,000 never been opened. EGR and injectors but thats it. cheers from the Toba.
I have an 04 6.0 and these trucks are known for failed egr’s you buy an aftermarket egr cooler or delete it if emissions aren’t required in your area
@@22K562 if you delete the egr just make sure you support the manifold Y or it’ll break as the cooler holds it up
Thank you man I appreciate your video
Thank you Kid. You the man!
Great video. Thank you for sharing you saved me $160 at a shop
Great video, information is done correctly, quick and to the point
You did a great job filming buddy.
make sure to drain the water out from the bottom filter but great video
Best one made thank you ! 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks for the informative video! Helped me change filters on my 2006 F350 :D
The fuel filter under the truck should have the weeping hole up top.....
Thanks for the vid!
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you for the video. Torque spec on these would be nice to know as well!!
You forgot to install the new o-ring on the upper filter's cap. You also forgot about how to ensure the weep hole is "up" on the lower filter. The lower filter doesn't "screw in", you simply push it into the housing.
Thanks for the video
Also a 1-3/8 12 point socket worked for me if someone doesn’t have a 36mm! Couldn’t find a 36mm socket anywhere…
Excellent explanation
You are so stinkin cute! Thanks for teaching me how to do this! Gonna go try it right now!
FIRST THING I DO IS DRAIN THE WATER SEPARATOR TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE!!! BUT GOOD VIDEO KID.
Great video. Use safety glasses
Excellent video
Great video, all the information I needed to get the job done right! I subscribed!
Very helpful video,thanks a bunch.
Great video best one very detailed kudos
Nice work buddy, you're a nstural, keep up the great videos. Thanks from a Detroit Diesel fan.
great video explained thoroughly
Thank you! Appreciate it!
Thanks my friend for sharing this video
This helped me so much !
I have a vt365 bus I am about to do the fuel filter. I always see people using a small valve thing to drain the fuel out of the filter housing and cleaning the sediment out and then put in a new filter. Then they have the bleed the air out of it somehow. You seemed to not have to do all that? I know the vt365 is similar to the 6.0 power stroke so I’m hoping mine is simple like this
Bro this was so helpful thank you!
EXELENTE.... THANK YOU AMIGO
You did a great job man🤟🏾
Very Good!...
A good practical video that even a newbie can easily follow. How do you drain the water separator?
6mm hex wrench, to the right of the filter cap towards the front of the truck. The Allen head bleeder port bolt is in a tight spot between the filter housing and the front drive shaft. Be slow and careful when taking it out, if you're not it will pop out quick and you'll be taking a bath in diesel fuel.
Should have sprayed it with some silicone spray first! Thanks for the video. What year and miles on your truck?
Thanks
Thanks great info
Thanks man very helpful.
What are torque specs on tightening the filter caps? Informative vid, thanks!
Gracias Vato
Thanks good video
Excellent
Great video
Use an oil filter wrench to remove the rear filter
Thanks man u are the best
What size is the socket for the filters top one and bottom one
Really helpful 👍🏾
Do both filters come in the same box? Or are they both the same filters and I need to get 2? And do I neeed to do anything with the fuel water separator?
Good job man
Good job.
Are You in Drumheller Alberta? I,have friends down here in Phoenix who were Born there. I,was seeing Drumheller on the sign on the wall.
Good vid thanks bud!
Well done
Self bleeding? Boy are people spoiled today... and me also apparently.
Came here to see about bleeding procedure. 😆 🤣
Hey the super duty 2005 6.0l use two fuel filter. ? Right.
perfect video
good vid
When my Bubba changed the filter in the fuel filter check valve spring broke of how do you change that part out.
The way he said to prime the system is a good way to destroy your glowplugs.
That's the way ford tells you to do it and it will not kill glow plugs. I have cycled the key for glow plug up to 14 times for a 5 degree cold start last winter and my glow plugs are just fine
I don't understand the constant changing of filters with the reformulated diesel we use today. I understand doing maintenance to keep your warranty valid but it would be nice if you showed the dirty filter and rated its dirt level and commented on lower performance or whatever the issue for changing them so soon is. The truck doesn't just stop when they get dirty to a certain point, does it?
True diesel is cleaner, but the filters are much finer to protect the fancy modern injectors. The primary one filters down to 10 micron and the secondary one filters down to three microns. To put this in perspective, a single red blood cell is EIGHT microns in diameter!
Needless to say, as a result of this super fine filtration, they clog faster than the older filters.
Will your truck suddenly stop with a partially clogged filter? No. It will start and run just fine. However, when you are pulling a big trailer up a steep mountain grade; injectors dumping as much fuel as they possibly can into the engine, your fuel pressure could start to drop. And running hard, high RPM, hot temperatures, a little injector suddeny stops getting fuel. And without lubrication or cooling from the fuel, the tiny injector tip seizes shut. And you have a dead injector. Or worse, you end up with diesel knock and a hole in your piston.
Moral of the story, just change them every 50k like the manual says. Why chance it?
The bottom filter separates water from the diesel, so I would always change it regularly
Absolutely especially with a 6.0l when the filter gets clogged up fuel will not pass and it will not get appropriate fuel pressure and also it keeps shit from the picky injectors the 6.0l has compared to the simple 7.3 injectors
you did great