After watching this video I purchased the Loop Wedge. Very happy I did. This is a cheap investment for you to add to your archery tools! Having the ability to create consistent D-Loops and replace D-Loops is a time and money saver!
Thank you for your videos they are very informative I have greatly enjoyed them. I have always run a cable operated rest on hunting bows.…but I will be putting a hamskea Trinity on my trx 38 soon and I noticed you run your hamskea cord to the top limb. Can you explain why the top limb is different/better than bottom limb?
With regards to the function of the rest, it does not matter wether you choose the top limb or the bottom limb. So, it becomes your preference or which direction creates less potential obstruction for the lift cord. For my target bow I use V-Bars and the lift cord could hang on the bracket or the end collar of that back bar, and how I set up for my shot, I put release hand in that area when I put my bow hand in my wrist strap that’s attached to the bow. I have needed to cut the end of the extension bar of my target sights to make sure they would not interfere with the function of the lift cord. So I feel going to the top limb is better for me.
Michael. Thank you for the video. It was fantastic! One thing I noticed was you have no serving separation under your d loop. I seem to always get serving separation when using tied in nock sets under my d loop. Why is that? It’s very frustrating. I have a string jig and reserve my center serving myself under 300# of tension to ensure they are proper and tight using bcy power grip. I can’t figure out what’s going on or what I may be doing wrong? Any advice?
Bought the tool and tied my first d-loop today. How worried should I be about the melted ends being big enough to keep the material from pulling through when I shoot?
If you are worries about it not being big enough. Then melt a bigger ball of each end. If you can send a pic in your reply here, or send it to me on FB so I can see it
Over the years I have shot releases where the gate pulled the D-Loop into a crack, between the floating gate and the release, so I felt the larger diameter material wouldn’t pull through… Thank you for the comment!!!
I do love watching this man work on bows!!!! Every word that Coach says is important. Thank you so much for this great video Coach Braden!! -Raymon
Another excellent video! Bought my wedge already!
After watching this video I purchased the Loop Wedge. Very happy I did. This is a cheap investment for you to add to your archery tools! Having the ability to create consistent D-Loops and replace D-Loops is a time and money saver!
Another awesome video.
Thanks again!
Thanks Michael, great video and hope to see more!
Great in depth vid please share more knowledge
Thanks, will do!
great information thanks Micheal
Thank you buddy!!!
Great information, thanks for sharing brother
You bet
Awesome video tutorial! Thanks!
Thank you!!!
Great video. Great information. Thanks a lot
Thank you!!!
Awesome video very informative
Thank you!!
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge. We're gonna miss you on the tournament trail. Best of luck, God bless.
Thank you for your videos they are very informative I have greatly enjoyed them. I have always run a cable operated rest on hunting bows.…but I will be putting a hamskea Trinity on my trx 38 soon and I noticed you run your hamskea cord to the top limb. Can you explain why the top limb is different/better than bottom limb?
With regards to the function of the rest, it does not matter wether you choose the top limb or the bottom limb. So, it becomes your preference or which direction creates less potential obstruction for the lift cord. For my target bow I use V-Bars and the lift cord could hang on the bracket or the end collar of that back bar, and how I set up for my shot, I put release hand in that area when I put my bow hand in my wrist strap that’s attached to the bow. I have needed to cut the end of the extension bar of my target sights to make sure they would not interfere with the function of the lift cord. So I feel going to the top limb is better for me.
Loved the vidio
Very informative vid. Would like to see removing existing d loop in more detail.
Thank you!!!
I would like for you to do a video on torque tunning. Hope you're enjoying your retirement. Always enjoyed watching you in the shoot downs.
@@dougsherrer5954
Thank you Doug!!!
Michael.
Thank you for the video. It was fantastic!
One thing I noticed was you have no serving separation under your d loop.
I seem to always get serving separation when using tied in nock sets under my d loop.
Why is that?
It’s very frustrating. I have a string jig and reserve my center serving myself under 300# of tension to ensure they are proper and tight using bcy power grip.
I can’t figure out what’s going on or what I may be doing wrong? Any advice?
Why do you start at 3 inches?
Bought the tool and tied my first d-loop today. How worried should I be about the melted ends being big enough to keep the material from pulling through when I shoot?
If you are worries about it not being big enough. Then melt a bigger ball of each end. If you can send a pic in your reply here, or send it to me on FB so I can see it
@@michaelbraden6000 I looked at them again and re-melted the ends, I feel pretty comfortable now. Thanks.
Yes sir!!
I hope a lot of people watch this!
The idea of overall draw length really isn't appreciated by a lot of people.
Any reason you use #24 over #23?
Over the years I have shot releases where the gate pulled the D-Loop into a crack, between the floating gate and the release, so I felt the larger diameter material wouldn’t pull through… Thank you for the comment!!!