Great description, ‘What am I wanting it to do…. Provide guidance until what? Enough speed … momentum… to take over…”. Never heard it put that way. Excellent!
Thanks for the detailed video. I recently bought a new Bowtech bow and put a Vapor Trails limb-driven rest on it and I have been struggling to get the rest set up properly. Unfortunately I bought the bow in Colorado where I had great archery shops to chose from but now I live in southern Virginia where there aren't as many trustworthy shops nearby. Videos like yours help me greatly. Thank you.
I have 3 VaporTrail limb driven drop aways and where on the limb you attach the cable makes all the difference. On an extreme parallel limb bow (like a Mathews TRX) you can have the cable all the way to the axle as it moves very little. On a more upright limb I usually start around where the perimeter of the cam intersects the limb plane. That was explained to me by "Ears", a VaporTrail employee and expert. If the rest blade stays up too long move the cable towards the axle, if it's dropping away too quickly, move away from the axle. I've been on the podium many times in Target, Field, and 3D events, all with VaporTrail rests. I would be happy to send you pictures of different setups if you think that might help.
Blade arrow rests are the best for pinpoint accuracy, a properly installed and tuned blade rest does not contact the fletchings of the arrow. They probably don't work well with 4 fletchings, but 3 is perfect. Thats why they are the most popular rest used in target where millimeters count on where you hit that target. The problem is that they don't contain the arrow, and the arrow can easily fall off the rest, especially when you draw the bow. This makes it unsuitable for hunting. And that's where drop away rests shine. They can give the best flight off the rest without contacting the fletching, but they are way harder and finicky to set up and tune, plus the addition of moving parts. But being full containment rest, makes them very well suited for hunting and that's where you see them used the most.
I could nerd out for days with a shooting machine.... Seeing what my bows can already do would be really helpful, I would stop sweating the small things and just practice more.
Thank you for sharing this awesome archery Arrow rest info.. I watch many many youtube videos and none them have shared this valuable information. Just recently purchased a Custom QAD Ultra Rest Pro HDX Drop Away Rest with Bracket for my PSE TAC 15 Ordnance Crossbow Upper.. I managed to time it, yesterday test I notice the arrow rest never made contact with the Vanes , but it did noticed the arm starts to lift up withing 5" before the end of the arrow , 45 degrees within the 4" & 80 degrees @ 3" inches " on the end of the arrow. I'm glad I ran in too your video so I could Tune-up my rest so I get the best performance of my crossbow. 26.25" arrow 485 gr weight @ 405 FPS
Limb driven rest 1. Find power stroke of draw (mark arrow where it contacts the rest at rest and mark where the arrow is on the rest at full draw) 2. Measure distance btw 2 marrks on arrow and divide by 2( 50 percent of power stroke) 3. Measure from that midpt to the full draw mark and divide by 2. This gives you 75 percent of power stroke. 4. I use painters tape to tape from the 50 mark to the 75 mark to see easier 5. You want the arrow rest to be fully in up position in the 50-70 range. 6. Adjust cord attached to limb closer or further from limb tip to time correctly
@@michaelbraden6000 By using a draw board to measure and by doing some group tuning, I think supporting the arrow for the first 7 inches has been giving me a bit more forgiveness. Thanks for advice.
Great vid. It’s super important to experiment with this stuff. All rests have there own idiosyncrasies on different bows. Eg on my elite enlist my hamskea primer gives perfect straight nock travel but is much harder to tune out right tears. My QAD on the same bow though gives nock low travel so the arrow has to run downhill through the Berger holes but right/left tears are a non issue. I’d be interested to know how QAD’s can be set to delay their super fast drop away.
Do the same test with a 600gr. The results are far more dramatic. If you are shooting a TAC event and trying to reach 120yds you might need all the up time you can get so your arrow will clear the scope. The distance of drop is far more dramatic when you compare a fall away against a fixed rest. I shot a 427 grain arrow at 270fps off a Bodoodle Zapper, then installed a QAD HDX and the arrow dropped 3 inches. I have also noticed you can run into tuning problems with minimal up time. Great video, sadly this doesn’t get shown or seen enough. Every time i see a Hamskea tied to the saddle of a split yoke bus cable on a Mathews or PSE I shake my head.
@@brandonnguyen3442 Slow motion video has shown the violent movement of the cables can cause the rest launcher to rebound and contact the fletching. Testing was done by Lancaster Archery.
For me, the target launcher is longer so I can change out the “Up Stop” screw and lower the angle of the launcher blade, while maintaining the same arrow height when full upright. A lower blade angle will enable more leverage against the “Full Upright” spring, arguably being a little more forgiving if the arrow where to hit it during launch. Is it a significant difference? No…
Quick question are your hash marks on the epsilon at dead center? I have the V3X and mine are 2 marks to the left of center. I’m not sure if the bow shop I had install it has it set up right or not. I bought the Mathews specific one online because he had limited inventory. I shoot the bow very well except I can’t get it dead center
Yes, the speed of the arrow is important for the timing to the get the arrow it's position in the gliding position in flight, my big question, do I use my pocket change to build my own hooter shooter or spend $2500/3000 for the over priced, this company that owns the hooter shooter doesn't have right to price gouge anyone, their being greedy
I don’t understand why you talk about when the rest comes up when that doesn’t matter At all. The ONLY thing that matters is when it drops away. It can be up in the up position before you even draw.
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I know this is an older video but I thank you for the content . Good stuff mister and I'll be applying this to my own setup
Great description, ‘What am I wanting it to do…. Provide guidance until what? Enough speed … momentum… to take over…”. Never heard it put that way. Excellent!
Thank you!!
installing a hamskae rest now and I was like; hey I know that guy! Good talk - like the info
Thanks for the detailed video. I recently bought a new Bowtech bow and put a Vapor Trails limb-driven rest on it and I have been struggling to get the rest set up properly. Unfortunately I bought the bow in Colorado where I had great archery shops to chose from but now I live in southern Virginia where there aren't as many trustworthy shops nearby. Videos like yours help me greatly. Thank you.
I have 3 VaporTrail limb driven drop aways and where on the limb you attach the cable makes all the difference. On an extreme parallel limb bow (like a Mathews TRX) you can have the cable all the way to the axle as it moves very little. On a more upright limb I usually start around where the perimeter of the cam intersects the limb plane. That was explained to me by "Ears", a VaporTrail employee and expert. If the rest blade stays up too long move the cable towards the axle, if it's dropping away too quickly, move away from the axle. I've been on the podium many times in Target, Field, and 3D events, all with VaporTrail rests. I would be happy to send you pictures of different setups if you think that might help.
Blade arrow rests are the best for pinpoint accuracy, a properly installed and tuned blade rest does not contact the fletchings of the arrow. They probably don't work well with 4 fletchings, but 3 is perfect. Thats why they are the most popular rest used in target where millimeters count on where you hit that target. The problem is that they don't contain the arrow, and the arrow can easily fall off the rest, especially when you draw the bow. This makes it unsuitable for hunting. And that's where drop away rests shine. They can give the best flight off the rest without contacting the fletching, but they are way harder and finicky to set up and tune, plus the addition of moving parts. But being full containment rest, makes them very well suited for hunting and that's where you see them used the most.
I could nerd out for days with a shooting machine.... Seeing what my bows can already do would be really helpful, I would stop sweating the small things and just practice more.
You're right. It would be really cool to have a set up like that in my backyard!
Thank you for sharing this awesome archery Arrow rest info..
I watch many many youtube videos and none them have shared this valuable information. Just recently purchased a Custom QAD Ultra Rest Pro HDX Drop Away Rest with Bracket for my PSE TAC 15 Ordnance Crossbow Upper..
I managed to time it, yesterday test I notice the arrow rest never made contact with the Vanes ,
but it did noticed the arm starts to lift up withing 5" before the end of the arrow ,
45 degrees within the 4" & 80 degrees @ 3" inches " on the end of the arrow.
I'm glad I ran in too your video so I could Tune-up my rest so I get the best performance of my crossbow.
26.25" arrow
485 gr weight @ 405 FPS
Thanks for the video. I will be checking my timing on my bow closer
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Mr. Braden.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, lots of tech info. Very clear. TY
Great info - setting up a pair of hunting bows and this is super helpful.
Limb driven rest
1. Find power stroke of draw (mark arrow where it contacts the rest at rest and mark where the arrow is on the rest at full draw)
2. Measure distance btw 2 marrks on arrow and divide by 2( 50 percent of power stroke)
3. Measure from that midpt to the full draw mark and divide by 2. This gives you 75 percent of power stroke.
4. I use painters tape to tape from the 50 mark to the 75 mark to see easier
5. You want the arrow rest to be fully in up position in the 50-70 range.
6. Adjust cord attached to limb closer or further from limb tip to time correctly
I found this video to be incredibly useful. will try it myself.
Great to hear!
@@michaelbraden6000 By using a draw board to measure and by doing some group tuning, I think supporting the arrow for the first 7 inches has been giving me a bit more forgiveness. Thanks for advice.
Excellent information. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thank you.
Thank you
Great vid. It’s super important to experiment with this stuff. All rests have there own idiosyncrasies on different bows. Eg on my elite enlist my hamskea primer gives perfect straight nock travel but is much harder to tune out right tears. My QAD on the same bow though gives nock low travel so the arrow has to run downhill through the Berger holes but right/left tears are a non issue. I’d be interested to know how QAD’s can be set to delay their super fast drop away.
Excellent.
Do the same test with a 600gr. The results are far more dramatic. If you are shooting a TAC event and trying to reach 120yds you might need all the up time you can get so your arrow will clear the scope. The distance of drop is far more dramatic when you compare a fall away against a fixed rest. I shot a 427 grain arrow at 270fps off a Bodoodle Zapper, then installed a QAD HDX and the arrow dropped 3 inches. I have also noticed you can run into tuning problems with minimal up time.
Great video, sadly this doesn’t get shown or seen enough. Every time i see a Hamskea tied to the saddle of a split yoke bus cable on a Mathews or PSE I shake my head.
My epsilon was tied to the yoke instead of the limb by my local bow shop. Why is this bad?
@@brandonnguyen3442 Slow motion video has shown the violent movement of the cables can cause the rest launcher to rebound and contact the fletching. Testing was done by Lancaster Archery.
So what was the point of moving the knot down the limb? We never saw if that changed anything or not or what the point of changing it is.
Btw …. Awesome work
What is your point weight ? Do you think 200 point would fall faster than 120? 30 yds.
Isn’t the only thing that matters is how long it stays up? Not how long it stays down?
Hamskea themselves says to have 50-70% of guidance, this video says the exact opposite? What your reasoning for having as little as possible?
Good question.. I am also interested in the reasoning, for I tuned it like this video said and didn't know about the 50-70 percent...
What’s the advantage of the target launcher vs the Hunter launcher ?
For me, the target launcher is longer so I can change out the “Up Stop” screw and lower the angle of the launcher blade, while maintaining the same arrow height when full upright. A lower blade angle will enable more leverage against the “Full Upright” spring, arguably being a little more forgiving if the arrow where to hit it during launch. Is it a significant difference? No…
Quick question are your hash marks on the epsilon at dead center? I have the V3X and mine are 2 marks to the left of center. I’m not sure if the bow shop I had install it has it set up right or not. I bought the Mathews specific one online because he had limited inventory. I shoot the bow very well except I can’t get it dead center
No, keep in mind the Hamskea rests are made for just about any bow, so the hash marks are just a reference when making an adjustment.
Thank you
means you had a right tear and the shop moved the rest instead of the top hat spacers.
Yes, the speed of the arrow is important for the timing to the get the arrow it's position in the gliding position in flight, my big question, do I use my pocket change to build my own hooter shooter or spend $2500/3000 for the over priced, this company that owns the hooter shooter doesn't have right to price gouge anyone, their being greedy
I don’t understand why you talk about when the rest comes up when that doesn’t matter At all. The ONLY thing that matters is when it drops away. It can be up in the up position before you even draw.
I shoot a capture style an its far more accurate then i am an i dont have to worry bout any of this business