Hi, first of all, thank you for this detailed video. I decided to upgrade to GX DUB crankset as you did and already ordered a GX derailler (SX is starting to be inacurate and too slow after 2 months). I 've got a question concerning the rear wheel freehub. I would like to change the cassette to GX 520% but, can I just buy an XD freehub and replace it or do I need to replace the whole wheel? You mentionned that freehub can be switch to microspline for shimano so I guess that I can do the same for SRAM XD right? Thank you
@@haritz8529 Although you don't need a new wheel lacing up the new hub to the new wheel is going to cost almost as much if not more than a new wheel. Secondly if your SX derailleur is "Inaccurate/slow" it most likely just needs to be indexed (This is something that needs to be done to all derailleurs, sx, nx, xx1, slx). lastly the extra 20% that you would get with a GX cassette would likely go almost unnoticed. The total cost for you to upgrade the total drivetrain to GX will be almost 50% of the bike. Although TXMTBN goes into depth lots there's a lot of information that seems to be opinionated, or theoretical. A "hub" upgrade is by no means easy or cheap, unless you are experienced with bike mechanics. My advice since you already have the GX parts ordered. Keep them as spares for now and get you're bike tuned. Novice riders tend to go through parts faster and those GX parts will come in handy soon, but unless the derailleur is broken I would advise against replacing it.
@@oloha911 Thanks for your comment. I already changed the derrailleur but will keep the cassette until it needs to be replaced...I totally agree with you, there is no need to spend more money on that. I also changed the Bottom bracket and crankset in order to loose some weight (almost 500g).
@@haritz8529 I'm having some wheels built for me since I dont trust 28 spoke on a 29r. Stans Flow mk3 rims with i9 Hydra hubs. $1100 build but ill have strong wheels and a GX cassette finally lol
I was already going to change my 2021 stumpy alloy tires to this exact same setup and you just solidified my decision. Thank you for your channel, keep up the good work!
I just bought my new 2021 stumpjumper Alloy last year and have already been itching to upgrade a few areas. These are great upgrade ideas! One area I definitely need to upgrade, that rear shock. I'm a heavier guy, currently at 260LBS and that rear shock seems it just doesn't do too well with my weight. It's okay but really compresses a lot when my weight comes down over it. I think the front shocks could be upgraded at least a step up and maybe to a 160mm at most. I am currently working out in the gym to get to 200lbs, but once in down to that point, I want to be more active in the mtb community and ride with larger groups. I'm in arizona as well so we have more hard packed single track in the desert but we do have some very good flowy single tracks. I would like to go faster as well.
Good ideas. I've had my Stumpjumper alloy (S3) for about 18 months now. Original weight was around 36 lbs. My first change was the tires, Rekon and Rekon Race tubeless, which saved about 1.2 lbs., most of which was from going tubeless, I just didn't like the feel of the stock tires at all, going to the Rekon Race on rear might have been too far towards XC though, feels great on slickrock and anything not too loose. I couldn't get the brake levers to adjust the bite point after trying all of the methods I could find, switched to SLX 4 piston both front and back and SLX rotors, very minimal weight drop of ~5 grams but I'm loving the feel, adjustability and power from these new brakes, this was well worth the upgrade cost. I narrowed the bars by about 10mm and dropped the stem all the way down which helped with the feel of the cockpit. The freewheel is not grabbing sometimes, likely needs a clean up, but wheels will likely be my next upgrade. The fork is okay but the rear shock seems lacking.
Got a 2020 Stumpy, but the only major thing i changed (apart from grips, pedals etc.) were the brakes. originally it had sram guide r front and rear and i only had trouble with them, so i switched to code rsc´s ... best decision ever, completely changed the way the bike feels
good call to upgrade rear derailleur, I broke 2 of them before replacing it with the GX. I have had no issues with the GX and it shifts 10x better and more accurately.
Love these '21 Stumpy vids TXMTBN, the 1.5lbs you have saved with those swap outs is great. I just swapped out the fork with a 2nd hand Pike. That alone saved 1020gms (2.25lbs)!!!! CRAZY!!
Both my daughters are running 2.2 Maxxis Recons and love them for where we live in Northern Michigan (good black dirt, or sandy). I am going to try the Butchers tubeless when I get my Comp Carbon Stumpy in a few weeks. We are still skiing up here!!
Hey there, thank you for the Stumpy videos! I have the same model as you, in the blaze color way. I have been enjoying your videos and have made some of the upgrades that you suggested. I am currently trying to remove the factory bottom bracket so I can install the SRAM GX cranks. I have removed the cranks and I have the tool to install the new DUB bb. Thanks!!
Hey dude. I would love to see a follow up video on what you've done to you your Stumpy in the last year, whether you still ride it and if your opinions on the bike have changed at all.
Good for thought for folks looking to upgrade from the NX drivetrain: get a better wheel set that has SRAM HD hub bodies. Then, upgrade the cassette and chain to GX or OX Eagle. Way better. You don’t have to do the rear derailleur and front chain ring all at once. You can slowly add GX or XO as parts break or wear out. And yes get rid of the Guide R brakes immediately
Great video. So for me I'm gonna upgrade to the GX derailuer. The SX is a bit slow and sloppy for me. Also will be replacing the shift lever to a higher level Eagle for snappier shifting response. Definitely going to set the flip chip to H as I'm getting too many strikes in the low. Finally the rear shock--- me at 215lbs it's just a bit too soft for me so if the H position of the flip chip doesn't solve the problem that will get replaced. As for the brakes, I've had no issues including downhilling at Killington so those will stay for now. Front fork is good enough for my kind of riding. I'm definitely going to check out the tires you recommend when mine need to be replaced. Again love these videos! Thank you!
First thing I upgraded was a GX derailleur. I am planning on putting a GX 30T crank and dub bottom bracket this winter. Considering a Magura MT sport brake upgrade at some point but right now the stock brakes are working well for me.
I just wanted to come back and add another big weight savor. I just upgraded my forks to a Fox 36 150mm and they weight 1.3lbs LESS than the stock Rockshox 35 Silver 140 that comes on the bike. It weighs 2.713kg. So use that to compare to what you're upgrading to.. You can shed a ton of weight if you upgrade to a fox 34
@@rng_undone8662 you would be surprised. The 150 didn't change the overall length of the fork. I measured before and after and nothing changed to the geo. This is because manufacturers like fox uses the same fork for 140-160mm travel. The only thing that changes is the internal air spring. The rockshox 140 was the same exact length as the Fox 36 150 from axle center to headtube.
@@DexterGoneWild pretty interesting didnt expect that :D Still the price plays a big factor in my oppinion. Buuut of course theres also a big difference in fork performance if u go from that lower end rockshox fork to a fox 34.
Great video. Totally agree with you focusing on the front part of the drivetrain. I just wanted to make sure the rear part could be upgraded down the line without the costs piling up unnecessarily with the cost of a new wheel. I intend to keep this frame for quite a long time. When things wear out or break I will surely start moving toward GX. I am not too focused on the weight but if you are you can also save around 180g/0.4lb of rotational mass with the GX Cassette when compared with SX/NX. (according to the video from Worldwide Cyclery).
Thanks for the videos, they helped me decide to buy this bike. Just wanted to let everyone know you can definitely use a Shimano crankset and bottom bracket with the SRAM cassette, chain and derailleur.
I upgraded the fork to a rs Lyrik ultimate and the shox to a rs super Deluxe ultimate. I also switched the rims. Im now Running Dt Swiss ex511 and they‘re much lighter.
I like the upgrades you have done I have a 27. 5 I did change the cockpit to one up stem and bar cranks X01 definitely a game changer my next up grade carbon wheels and continental tires , factory shifter it’s goin next to something more reliable 🤘🏾
Any new updates? Are you still liking the stumpy? And all the upgrades? I was wondering since you switched to the oval shape chainring, you think that’s what is hitting your frame as it rotates. Since it’s more of an elongated circle rather than perfectly round. I was thinking of getting one myself but nervous about the clearance of the swing arm right where you’re getting those nicks in the paint.
Good video, although some of the information isn't accurate. You don't need a XD Hub to use the SRAM NX. If you want to go above NX to GX for your Cassette than you need a XD Hub. I know this because I have the same bike and upgraded to a NX Cassete without a XD Hub.
Hello, wanted to start by thanking you for this video! I was having a lot of issues with the stock X Design rear shock so I decided to upgrade that to the Fox DPX2, which works like a dream. After that I upgraded to the DUB bottom bracket with a NX crankset and was super happy with those. Next I am looking to upgrade to some EThirteen LG1 Plus Enduro Wheels and Maxxis Minion DHF in the front and a DHR II in the back. I ride in Southern California so its all loose dirt. After that I am definitely planning on upgrading my brakes, probably taking the same path you took. Any other suggestions would be great!
I have mine on order now, it will be my first full sus. It’s due to arrive in April so plenty of time to plan the upgrades😀 really liking your vids! Would appreciate one on suspension setup and also if it’s possible to service the fork and rear damper by your self or if you need specialist tools and knowledge. Keep up the good work!
You can do easy weekly services on your suspension with proper fork lube and keeping the seals clean. But if your going to pull your forks apart and drop the lowers to get access to your dampers and such... you're better off taking it to your local shop and giving it to someone who is properly certified. There are touchy oil measurements and each fork requires different amounts and very specific oils and its just a lot of work. One small thing in the wrong place can really ruin things. Doesn't require "special" tools unless you're working with Fox suspension. The lower end Rockshox fork and the X-fusion rear shock are simple but no matter what, if you're not trained, don't take things apart and end up costing yourself more money in the end.
Can't wait to hear about your first ride. I haven't gotten deep into suspension servicing, but with the wait times at my local bike shop, I going to have to!
HI great video, but I have a question about tire weights. When I look up the comparison weights between Grid and Recon I get this: Grid 29 2.3=988 g and Recon 29 2.4 = 840 g. The Recon is lighter by 148 g or 0.3 lbs not 0.71 lbs. Did I get something wrong cause I'd love to save almost a pound of rolling weight? Front and rear together gets you close to 0,71. Is th what you meant?
I ordered this bike today and I was planning on almost the exact same upgrades....Going with Code R for breaks, 4 piston. I have that on my Fuse and they are great. Thanks So much for the video...
Hi there. I’m thinking about upgrading the crank to the GX dub conversion, do you know if the crank is a boost or none boost, also do you recommend doing the crank and BB before I upgrade to a carbon bar ? Thanks again
Hi thank you for all that info. The only upgrade that I would like to do to my stump jumper is upgraded my suspension, I already put the fork went from 34s to 38. But my biggest issue now is to find the right one rear shock., so the one that is on it is a stock one and is kind of soggy. I would like a fox float x2dx something like that. Just wandering if Fox Float X Performance Elite will fit my bike . Thanks man
Great bike and upgrades. I've ordered this bike in the s3 too. I'm 5'6" so I'm hoping it will be fine. In regards to thr brakes I'm not too sure where I saw it but someone said to swap the tektro pads for shimano ones. At first I'll run whats in there and see how it goes first. 👍🏼
@@TXMTBN hi again. The stumpy arrived on Friday, wow what a lovely bike. I went on a 24mile off road ride today and everything was setup for me and my weight at the bike store, I found the brakes a little weak in the beginning but after a few down hills they were much better and felt alot more bite from the tektro bakes and pads. I found the suspension to be awesome too, even though I was comparing them to my hard tail claud butler mtb, great for jumps and drop offs . Also I found the tyres to be great too but they are still tubed, this will be changed soon. The tyres are good for the mud at the mo but guess they will be changed in the sumer months. Love it, will keep you updated. 👍🏼
@@TXMTBN it’s a great fork. Tried em all over the last couple years. DVO, Marzocchi, Fox factory stuff. For what I ride 90% of the time the fox 34 is perfect. I pitched the stumpy went back to carbon frame bike.
I have the same bike. I'm very happy with the overall quality of the frame, forks, wheels, and suspension. The first mod that I did was to cut an inch & a half from each end of the handlebars (personal preference). But when I start doing upgrades, the rear derailleur will be the first thing to go. It shifts about as quick as a farm tractor! I'm not even going to wait for it to snap at the knuckle, since we've already been warned. I tapped on it with my fingernail, and YUP, it's PLASTIC! Oh, hey, I like what you did with the cranks, and BB. Nice upgrade!
@@TXMTBN Hi Dan, So, I ordered the same BB & cranks that you got. On your video, you talked about the sprocket that you chose, but I don't think you mentioned if you went with a 30 tooth, or a 32. Thanks for the good video.
Question: Do you think it'd be safe to run 2.4 tires on a 25 mm rim? The way I figured, since I'm running 2.2's on my st i25 rims now, the extra .2 inches (.1 on each side) shouldn't hurt all that much, if at all. P.S. By the way, the bike is not a Stumpjumper, so yes I know the frame definitely can limit tire options.
If upgrading the front tire the Rekon Race is better in every respect than the Ikon in terms of rolling speed, cornering control, and braking traction.
What spacers did you use on the left and right side of the dub bb with this gx crank set? Having trouble with my chain getting jammed on the back pedal
Have not done the install yet but according to the BB used here you need the 3mm outer spacer on left non drive side and a 5mm outer on the right drive side. I do not think the BB comes with a 5mm space. Three largest is 4.5 mm
Any idea what brand the rear hub is? on the Specialized website its unbranded. Trying to decide if i can even upgrade the engagement on this hub and or add an XD freehub for a GX cassette. Seems like a new rear wheel and hub is the option right now. thx
Can I use the existing SX front ring with GX cranks? Did you try the 32T? I am also struggling to decide on 2 vs 4 pot brakes. I am thinking of keeping them equal. Finally my factory tubeless rim tape leaked through at least 10 spokes. Would love to see the full brake install. Thanks for the awesome videos!
Yes on sx ring and gx crank compatibility. On the brakes, what’s your weight : ) and riding conditions? One the factory tape, bummer, same happened to me! Always good to keep some tape on hand.
@@TXMTBN Thanks for the feedback! 155lb Intermediate to aggressive trails with roots, rocks, good dirt and some moderate downhill and technicals. I heard the 4 piston modulate better than the 2 piston. Are you seeing the same? My 2 piston Shimano BR-MT200 are like on or off when it comes to my gravel bike. Not sure about going from resin to metal pads either. Also Did I see you add rim tape over the factory tape? Did you use ISO alcohol? Thanks again. Great channel!
I agree - from my experience - on the modulation being slightly better on the 4s (I’m on Shimano brakes). For your weight I’d be tempted to follow your gut and go with 2s. You can always do a 203mm in front and a 180mm in the back to up the brake game while sticking with 2s.
My tubeless started leaking through the spokes as well. But it was due too the tape. The tape itself appear to be the best DT Swiss tape without the logo on it. It turned out to be the valves the shop used was a flat style valve with o-ring instead of a cone seal type valve, this was allowing air to pass through the valve seal and entering the channel between the tape and inside part of the wheel. Havent had any issues since swapping valves!
hi my upgrades: Handlebars race face carbon 760mm rise 20 SRAM DUB bottom bracket SRAM NX crankset SRAM GX 30T derailleur sram nx brakes shimano xt disc galfer wave ammo fox float dps performance elite Post Vittoria Syerra Ant Kenda Karma 2 Pro SCT Next wheels 1.6kg and gx-1275
If you still need it Acekit Bike Headset Cup and Bottom Bracket Press Installation Tool BB Install Tool for BB30 and BB90 www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ1CNM9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G8EWP1Z5705XNV4C0BPA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don’t know that there is any exact right answer here, but my thought was to get the advantages of the oval ring and keep my down hill / fast flat speed. Apples to apples (or round to round) definitely easier to climb on a 30t vs a round 32t.
Hi there. I'm upgrading the brakes to the deore m6120 which is the cheaper version of the xt, how much more power is there from the stock tektro? Also is it good to run on the stock rotors?
You can run them on the stock rotors, but I would swap those too eventually - the seem like part of the problem. I’d expect to see a noticeable difference based on my experience swapping to the XTs.
NX also uses the traditional shimano freehub, GX and up you need the XD driver free hub, Also you do not a special tool to remove the sx crank just an allen wrench, it is self extracting
Hey James, thanks for stopping by. I’d love to see a video of the self extracting sx cranks. The ones that can on the 2021 Stumpjumper alloy were definitely not self extracting.
@@TXMTBN You wont need a video, The crank accepts 2 sizes of allen wrenches, The larger size loosens clockwise and removes the top cap/extractor. The smaller size Allen fits in deeper and loosens anti clock wise. Just loosen the smaller one and will self extract. I just took one off last week.
Could you tell me a little more about switching the drivetrain out? I'd like to do a full Sram GX switch back and front, what would you recommend for the back bracket? and what is the power spline you mentioned? Does it come with the front crankset?
I just got mine few days ago. My lbs told me that the rims and tires are tubeless ready; just need the valve stems and sealant to go tubeless. But I see you listed the Amazon link to rim tape. Are the rims not tubeless ready?
Congrats! Factory wheels and tires are TR. I would always have some extra tape on hand in case you accidentally damage the factory tape or run into any issues with it. Nothing worse than getting it all taken apart then not being able to button it up. If you take care when taking your tire off you will probably be okay without it, but good to keep some in the your kit.
Also I did a vid on the tubeless setup if it helps. Tubeless Tire Setup on a MTB (Stumpjumper Alloy or Any Bike) th-cam.com/video/sBydRnln0bc/w-d-xo.html
Nice, I may be getting exactly this bike in 2 weeks!! How long do you think can I have fun with this bike before I should upgrade the breaks? :) It will be my first fully so I'm not experienced..
That’s awesome. Congrats. I would say it depends on what kind of riding you will be doing. They will serve you well as you learn into the bike, if your not doing super aggressive riding right away. I’ve also heard from some that they work a little better after wear-in (true for brakes in general). I would just get in the saddle and see how they suit you.
Go to the specialized website for the Stumpy model you want. There is a sizing tool there where they ask for height, distance between knee and ankle, ect. It's pretty accurate, told me I was an S5 based on height but came down to an S4 after I added all my measurements. My S4 fits me like a glove
Sizing tool on the site is a good start. At 178cm your going to right between S3 and S4, so you will have to decide to go up or down. I’m on an S3 (I’m one inch taller then you), but feel like I could easily go to and S4 and probably would have, but I tend like to pass my bikes to my sons, so I bought an S3 to better accommodate my youngest. Also, consider riding style which is partly the idea of the S sizing. If you want to be able to handle the bike a little more aggressively you can go on the lower side, etc.
@@swoodles I recommend you to attach both cables after getting out the old cable from the pivot side. I did that later and struggled 1 hour to pass the cable through the side arm top tube.
Don’t forget the top tube arm has a removable plate that you access by removing the rear shock for cable routing. The new cable should come with a little rubber cap with an end that slips onto the end of the old line and one that is open for a piece of string. When you pull out the old cable put the little cap on the end of it and double up a piece of dental floss through the end (long enough to get through the whole run). Once the string is out the other end put the cap on the new line and pull it through the opposite direction using the floss. Put some counter pressure on the end you started on as you pull.
@Askar Hjelmat - TeamTigers Hey, yes, cables are not the same but are included with the brakes so you shouldn't worry about that. They come already with mineral oil inside. Don't forget to buy the shimano purge kit if you buy these. After installation, there is always some air bubbles that need to be purged.
My first upgrade was the brakes. Went with shimano Diore 4 piston. Front and rear. So much better!! Next will be the derailer. It shifts really slow and crappy. Hate it.
I really enjoy your videos. I have this bike so it’s great to see hear your thoughts. I just moved to the Austin area. Would you recommend the same tire combo for the terrain?
Welcome to the area. We live 45 miles from Austin, so we are probably riding the same terrain. I like this tire combo a lot. You could also try just swapping the back out first to get a feel of the difference. Enjoy the ride!
I just got my Stumpjumper Alloy last week, looking to get the suspension dialed in without replacing it. Can the Rockshox 35 Silver take the "Bottomless Tokens" to create that progression everyone talks about to avoid bottoming out?
@@luckvich I used the larger spacer that came with the set. It’s tight clearance, but not sure you would want anything much ticker for drive train alignment purposes.
I have the same questions about the spacers, same setup. According to the BB you suggested you need 1 4.5mm on the outer of the drive side. I have not done the build yet so cannot confirm
Hi, bought the same bike , now I wanna do the brake upgrade, thinking in going with 4 piston XTs front and rear, do you think I can fit 203mm rotor in the rear as well? what rotors do you recommend? I'm in southern california and I like to ride steep rocky downhill trails. thank you.
You could with a spacer, stock is 180mm, so requires a spacer to go to 203mm. That would be a lot of brake : ) might try the upgrade on stock discs and see if it works for you. You can always get the spacer and upgrade the disc size later.
@@TXMTBN So I did end up getting the 4 piston XT's front and rear, kept the stock rotors, at first didn't noticed nothing wrong with them. After a lower leg fork service I went riding and did notice that my front brake would not do much braking. Was not a good way to find out since I was on a quite choppy DH trail. I tried cleaning and resurfacing the rotors and the pads, and I'm still experiencing a lack of braking power specially in the front. In order for the front brake to slow me down I gotta use two fingers and apply quite a bit of pressure on the lever, is that normal? I thought this brakes were gonna super powerful brakes. What are your thoughts? I'm only asking cause I know you have the same brakes in the front with the same rotors same bike too. Thanks
That should be plenty of power. Things I can think of would be bleeding them, rotor contamination or maybe the combo of pad and rotor just isn’t optimal. If you don’t need a bleed, I’d replace the rotor next and keep the other as a backup.
Hi great video, I've got the stumpy with 27.5 hi low axle, can I install the micro spline hub to this axle. I think it's the low end price axle most of the roval wheels appear to have dt swiss but I cant find any info regarding this . Regards from the other side of the pond. 🏴✌
If it uses the same hub as the 2021 alloy you will need the micro spline free hub. I believe the part number with Specialized might be S202100006. Hopefully that gets you started on your search!
Hey there, being that you're on the 27.5 model that is no longer produced, you are most likely running the older and most common Shimano free hub body. Microspline freehubs are only really used with the higher end Shimano drivetrains such as XTR. I'm curios your reasoning for changing your free hub body, you must be upgrading your cassette?
@@Hesster_dj Hi I looking to upgrade to 1 x 12 SLX or Xt and both require the shimano micro spline , I could fit the deor or sun race version on the old hub but I'm trying to get the weight down a bit so would prefer the xt.
@@lansdorf Totally makes sense. I wish I knew what year bike you are talking about. Not knowing leaves me a bit usnure of what drivetrain you currently have. Butttt in any case, you should have zero problem swapping your free hub body. It shouldn't be dependent on your wheel/hub that came stock with your bike. And honestly the easiest way to get it done, is walk into your local bike shop. At my shop we get questions like this almost daily, bring in your wheel, and then parts can get swapped very quickly.
Hey Alex, thanks for dropping by. I suppose there might be a few reasons for buying the lower end spec and upgrading for the Stumpjumper alloy. In my case this was the only bike I could find during the pandemic, higher spec bikes were next to impossible to find. I think some might upgrade to get the exact upgrades they want or be limited by budget and want to do it over time.
@@TXMTBN thanks mate great points. Yeah bikes are rare as hens teeth atm for sure. The main reason I ask is I’m looking at the Alloy Comp but I guess there’s the frame option and build one out also. It all adds up to money and time if you need something to ride now. Appreciate the reply.
Thanks for stopping by. Site should say dub cranks and spindle bottom bracket. Send me a link if you are seeing some thing else. www.specialized.com/us/en/stumpjumper-alloy/p/175253?color=281624-175253&searchText=93321-7001
@@TXMTBN alright, I bought the dub BB and gx crank. Do you happen to know what tools were required to change them out? Any special BB tool ill need to order?
Your going to need a crank puller (see below consider a cheap one). Once you have the GX on it’s self extracting, so you only need an Allen wrench to get that on and off. I cover some of it in my weight video. It’s a piece of cake! smile.amazon.com/dp/B0716NX7KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N0PM6KCTRWDQJN6B985W
conflicting weights online, but weigh it. I did, lost a pound with the 36. also, this is the hookup www.theproscloset.com/products/fox-factory-36-float-evol-air-spring-grip2-damper-tapered-steerer-44mm-offset-boost110-15mm-kabolt-axle-140mm-travel?variant=43537968136384&g_acctid=228-971-4576&g_adgroupid=146335103696&g_adid=647495279640&g_adtype=pla&g_campaign=US+-+Shopping+-+Standard+-+P%26A+-+Fox&g_campaignid=19659649859&g_ifcreative=&g_ifproduct=product&g_keyword=&g_keywordid=aud-1479137216594:pla-1656523454770&g_merchantid=123636776&g_network=g&g_partition=1656523454770&g_productchannel=online&g_productid=shopify_US_7465033040064_43537968136384&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtamlBhD3ARIsAARoaEzSuTwCL3snqcUgopT7QYd2AzFh009HmtpvM_imaIStiiTrEhdiSRUaAleOEALw_wcB.
I find it hard to believe that you saved .71lbs or 323grams by changing those tires. The Butcher weighs 910g, and the Purgatory weighs 810g. The Rekon weighs 810g, and the Ikon is 750g. The difference is (163g), that's about half of what you say you saved, better check your scale. If you really want to save some weight, dump those wheels. Also, you can definitely run a Shimano BB and Crank with a SRAM rear, totally compatible. And you could have saved some coin by going with the SLX 4-piston brakes, negligible weight difference.
Great point might have been complicated by the fact that the factory had sealant and I weighed the wheel+tire before and after, so amount of sealant and tape mattered. Not very scientific on my part.
@@TXMTBN thanks for the answer, a couple more questions I will be grateful to you, I am going to buy this particular bike, I will find out as much as possible about it, this weight with or without a camera is 35.4 lbs and it makes sense to make it easier by putting shimano xt I myself live in Of Russia
@@TXMTBN Sorry man, reading my entry now I can see that I can't across as less than polite, not my intention. I typed that while smiling believe it or not. Keep the vids coming, very cool.
i dont know why you didnt just buy a better model... way less BS . plus know you have extra useless parts lying around that you paid for, for no reason. your rear der, obviously wasnt adjusted correctly, again next time just get the bike you actually want and save money... or dont
Hi, first of all, thank you for this detailed video. I decided to upgrade to GX DUB crankset as you did and already ordered a GX derailler (SX is starting to be inacurate and too slow after 2 months). I 've got a question concerning the rear wheel freehub. I would like to change the cassette to GX 520% but, can I just buy an XD freehub and replace it or do I need to replace the whole wheel? You mentionned that freehub can be switch to microspline for shimano so I guess that I can do the same for SRAM XD right?
Thank you
Thanks for dropping by! Once you go above the NX cassette (GX and above) you’re going to need the XD freehub. No new wheel. 👊
@@TXMTBN Great!
@@haritz8529 Although you don't need a new wheel lacing up the new hub to the new wheel is going to cost almost as much if not more than a new wheel. Secondly if your SX derailleur is "Inaccurate/slow" it most likely just needs to be indexed (This is something that needs to be done to all derailleurs, sx, nx, xx1, slx). lastly the extra 20% that you would get with a GX cassette would likely go almost unnoticed. The total cost for you to upgrade the total drivetrain to GX will be almost 50% of the bike. Although TXMTBN goes into depth lots there's a lot of information that seems to be opinionated, or theoretical. A "hub" upgrade is by no means easy or cheap, unless you are experienced with bike mechanics. My advice since you already have the GX parts ordered. Keep them as spares for now and get you're bike tuned. Novice riders tend to go through parts faster and those GX parts will come in handy soon, but unless the derailleur is broken I would advise against replacing it.
@@oloha911 Thanks for your comment. I already changed the derrailleur but will keep the cassette until it needs to be replaced...I totally agree with you, there is no need to spend more money on that. I also changed the Bottom bracket and crankset in order to loose some weight (almost 500g).
@@haritz8529 I'm having some wheels built for me since I dont trust 28 spoke on a 29r. Stans Flow mk3 rims with i9 Hydra hubs. $1100 build but ill have strong wheels and a GX cassette finally lol
I've had the bike for 2 years now. Finally upgrading the drivetrain to GX and shimano brakes. I went tubeless first thing. Love my bike!
In my experience it’s the wheels that affect weight and performance the most when talking about upgrades. It’s also the most expensive upgrade.
What I love about your suggestion is you can easily take them to your next bike. Thanks!
Can u link what wheeels I should get
@@primes4823Elitewheels pro 36
I was already going to change my 2021 stumpy alloy tires to this exact same setup and you just solidified my decision. Thank you for your channel, keep up the good work!
Me too
Awesome. Thanks for stopping by and thanks for the encouragement!
I just bought my new 2021 stumpjumper Alloy last year and have already been itching to upgrade a few areas. These are great upgrade ideas! One area I definitely need to upgrade, that rear shock. I'm a heavier guy, currently at 260LBS and that rear shock seems it just doesn't do too well with my weight. It's okay but really compresses a lot when my weight comes down over it. I think the front shocks could be upgraded at least a step up and maybe to a 160mm at most. I am currently working out in the gym to get to 200lbs, but once in down to that point, I want to be more active in the mtb community and ride with larger groups. I'm in arizona as well so we have more hard packed single track in the desert but we do have some very good flowy single tracks. I would like to go faster as well.
Good ideas. I've had my Stumpjumper alloy (S3) for about 18 months now. Original weight was around 36 lbs. My first change was the tires, Rekon and Rekon Race tubeless, which saved about 1.2 lbs., most of which was from going tubeless, I just didn't like the feel of the stock tires at all, going to the Rekon Race on rear might have been too far towards XC though, feels great on slickrock and anything not too loose. I couldn't get the brake levers to adjust the bite point after trying all of the methods I could find, switched to SLX 4 piston both front and back and SLX rotors, very minimal weight drop of ~5 grams but I'm loving the feel, adjustability and power from these new brakes, this was well worth the upgrade cost. I narrowed the bars by about 10mm and dropped the stem all the way down which helped with the feel of the cockpit. The freewheel is not grabbing sometimes, likely needs a clean up, but wheels will likely be my next upgrade. The fork is okay but the rear shock seems lacking.
Totally agree with your assessment here and wheels will be huge!
Love my stumojumper alloy. I upgraded to sram GX derailleur, tires, RF Arc40 rims. Next - brakes and cassette
Do you know if i can buy only this calipers and use the original linings and brakelevers that already is on the bike?
Got a 2020 Stumpy, but the only major thing i changed (apart from grips, pedals etc.) were the brakes. originally it had sram guide r front and rear and i only had trouble with them, so i switched to code rsc´s ... best decision ever, completely changed the way the bike feels
Did you upgrade just the levers or the calipers as well? I'm considering the same thing for my 2020 comp alloy
I updated the rear brake as suggested here and it worked out perfect. Thanks for the video!
Awesome! Enjoy it out there!
good call to upgrade rear derailleur, I broke 2 of them before replacing it with the GX. I have had no issues with the GX and it shifts 10x better and more accurately.
Seriously… junk! Hope you are having fun out there!
Love these '21 Stumpy vids TXMTBN, the 1.5lbs you have saved with those swap outs is great. I just swapped out the fork with a 2nd hand Pike. That alone saved 1020gms (2.25lbs)!!!! CRAZY!!
What?!?! Geesh, that is huge. Is it playing nice with the back shock? Thanks for dropping by!
@@TXMTBN Yes, similar controls for spring and rebound but with the added bonus of compression adjustment as well.
Did this myself, great change over the stock Fox. Much stiffer. When you can, upgrade the airspring to the latest debonair and its a whole new ride
Both my daughters are running 2.2 Maxxis Recons and love them for where we live in Northern Michigan (good black dirt, or sandy). I am going to try the Butchers tubeless when I get my Comp Carbon Stumpy in a few weeks. We are still skiing up here!!
You're going to love it. I got mine 2 weeks ago and I cant stop grinning every time I get on it.
Hey there, thank you for the Stumpy videos! I have the same model as you, in the blaze color way. I have been enjoying your videos and have made some of the upgrades that you suggested. I am currently trying to remove the factory bottom bracket so I can install the SRAM GX cranks. I have removed the cranks and I have the tool to install the new DUB bb. Thanks!!
Hey dude. I would love to see a follow up video on what you've done to you your Stumpy in the last year, whether you still ride it and if your opinions on the bike have changed at all.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Good for thought for folks looking to upgrade from the NX drivetrain: get a better wheel set that has SRAM HD hub bodies. Then, upgrade the cassette and chain to GX or OX Eagle. Way better. You don’t have to do the rear derailleur and front chain ring all at once. You can slowly add GX or XO as parts break or wear out.
And yes get rid of the Guide R brakes immediately
Great video. So for me I'm gonna upgrade to the GX derailuer. The SX is a bit slow and sloppy for me. Also will be replacing the shift lever to a higher level Eagle for snappier shifting response. Definitely going to set the flip chip to H as I'm getting too many strikes in the low. Finally the rear shock--- me at 215lbs it's just a bit too soft for me so if the H position of the flip chip doesn't solve the problem that will get replaced. As for the brakes, I've had no issues including downhilling at Killington so those will stay for now. Front fork is good enough for my kind of riding. I'm definitely going to check out the tires you recommend when mine need to be replaced. Again love these videos! Thank you!
First thing I upgraded was a GX derailleur. I am planning on putting a GX 30T crank and dub bottom bracket this winter. Considering a Magura MT sport brake upgrade at some point but right now the stock brakes are working well for me.
Sounds like a solid setup
I just wanted to come back and add another big weight savor.
I just upgraded my forks to a Fox 36 150mm and they weight 1.3lbs LESS than the stock Rockshox 35 Silver 140 that comes on the bike. It weighs 2.713kg. So use that to compare to what you're upgrading to.. You can shed a ton of weight if you upgrade to a fox 34
It’s hard to find 1.3 lbs!
but u need to consider. a fox 34 is pretty expensive and if its a 150mm it changes the bikes geo.
@@rng_undone8662 you would be surprised. The 150 didn't change the overall length of the fork. I measured before and after and nothing changed to the geo. This is because manufacturers like fox uses the same fork for 140-160mm travel. The only thing that changes is the internal air spring. The rockshox 140 was the same exact length as the Fox 36 150 from axle center to headtube.
@@DexterGoneWild pretty interesting didnt expect that :D
Still the price plays a big factor in my oppinion. Buuut of course theres also a big difference in fork performance if u go from that lower end rockshox fork to a fox 34.
Great video.
Totally agree with you focusing on the front part of the drivetrain.
I just wanted to make sure the rear part could be upgraded down the line without the costs piling up unnecessarily with the cost of a new wheel. I intend to keep this frame for quite a long time.
When things wear out or break I will surely start moving toward GX.
I am not too focused on the weight but if you are you can also save around 180g/0.4lb of rotational mass with the GX Cassette when compared with SX/NX. (according to the video from Worldwide Cyclery).
You got a shout out!
@@TXMTBN Thanks, man!
Thanks for the videos, they helped me decide to buy this bike. Just wanted to let everyone know you can definitely use a Shimano crankset and bottom bracket with the SRAM cassette, chain and derailleur.
Hope you are enjoying the bike!
I upgraded the fork to a rs Lyrik ultimate and the shox to a rs super Deluxe ultimate. I also switched the rims. Im now Running Dt Swiss ex511 and they‘re much lighter.
Nice upgrades!
SL-MT800-L SHIMANO SL-MT800-L Dropper Post Lever Black, I-Spec EV --- Just ordered this as an upgrade to the remote. The oem is kind of cheap.
Definitely more xc oriented upgrades I noticed but hey! It’s preference
I like the upgrades you have done I have a 27. 5 I did change the cockpit to one up stem and bar cranks X01 definitely a game changer my next up grade carbon wheels and continental tires , factory shifter it’s goin next to something more reliable 🤘🏾
Hey Daniel, thanks for stopping by. I’m about to convert rear derailleur to sram GX. What’s your weight in the 27.5?
@@TXMTBN about 27 lb the size I have it’s S2 yes I’m short 😄 and the bike been an EVO carbon the stumpy feels fast and quick on DH
i put 3m 2228 behind the sprocket and round the edges, perfect
Any new updates? Are you still liking the stumpy? And all the upgrades? I was wondering since you switched to the oval shape chainring, you think that’s what is hitting your frame as it rotates. Since it’s more of an elongated circle rather than perfectly round. I was thinking of getting one myself but nervous about the clearance of the swing arm right where you’re getting those nicks in the paint.
Great vid, thanks! Quick question, did you order the Boost or Non-boost version of the GX crankset? Thanks!
Boost! Happy riding!
Good video, although some of the information isn't accurate. You don't need a XD Hub to use the SRAM NX. If you want to go above NX to GX for your Cassette than you need a XD Hub. I know this because I have the same bike and upgraded to a NX Cassete without a XD Hub.
Hello, wanted to start by thanking you for this video! I was having a lot of issues with the stock X Design rear shock so I decided to upgrade that to the Fox DPX2, which works like a dream. After that I upgraded to the DUB bottom bracket with a NX crankset and was super happy with those. Next I am looking to upgrade to some EThirteen LG1 Plus Enduro Wheels and Maxxis Minion DHF in the front and a DHR II in the back. I ride in Southern California so its all loose dirt. After that I am definitely planning on upgrading my brakes, probably taking the same path you took. Any other suggestions would be great!
Could you put a link for the rear shock please?
Holy crap! It's stock 35 lbs? Still love me carbon 2016 expert right at 29lbs.
Bikes have gotten heavy! 29lbs is perfect.
I have mine on order now, it will be my first full sus. It’s due to arrive in April so plenty of time to plan the upgrades😀 really liking your vids! Would appreciate one on suspension setup and also if it’s possible to service the fork and rear damper by your self or if you need specialist tools and knowledge. Keep up the good work!
You can do easy weekly services on your suspension with proper fork lube and keeping the seals clean. But if your going to pull your forks apart and drop the lowers to get access to your dampers and such... you're better off taking it to your local shop and giving it to someone who is properly certified. There are touchy oil measurements and each fork requires different amounts and very specific oils and its just a lot of work. One small thing in the wrong place can really ruin things. Doesn't require "special" tools unless you're working with Fox suspension. The lower end Rockshox fork and the X-fusion rear shock are simple but no matter what, if you're not trained, don't take things apart and end up costing yourself more money in the end.
Can't wait to hear about your first ride. I haven't gotten deep into suspension servicing, but with the wait times at my local bike shop, I going to have to!
HI great video, but I have a question about tire weights. When I look up the comparison weights between Grid and Recon I get this: Grid 29 2.3=988 g and Recon 29 2.4 = 840 g. The Recon is lighter by 148 g or 0.3 lbs not 0.71 lbs. Did I get something wrong cause I'd love to save almost a pound of rolling weight? Front and rear together gets you close to 0,71. Is th what you meant?
I ordered this bike today and I was planning on almost the exact same upgrades....Going with Code R for breaks, 4 piston. I have that on my Fuse and they are great. Thanks So much for the video...
Great videos. On the gx crankset. How do you know which width did you use. Boost or non boost
Thanks! It’s boost. Watch my buying a MTB video I cover the boost topic with some charts so you can learn all about that.
I am about to pick up SJ alloy from the store. Your video make me doubt about my choice. Do you regret not getting comp model?
Hi there. I’m thinking about upgrading the crank to the GX dub conversion, do you know if the crank is a boost or none boost, also do you recommend doing the crank and BB before I upgrade to a carbon bar ? Thanks again
Boost. Crank first for sure!
@@TXMTBN thank you. I will get it ordered. 👍🏼😉
Just baught this bike and love it thx for the great info
I have the same bike, I changed
-selle royal saddle
-ethirteen+ 50mm stem
-fox 34 factory fork
-gx derailuer
Hi thank you for all that info. The only upgrade that I would like to do to my stump jumper is upgraded my suspension, I already put the fork went from 34s to 38. But my biggest issue now is to find the right one rear shock., so the one that is on it is a stock one and is kind of soggy. I would like a fox float x2dx something like that. Just wandering if Fox Float X Performance Elite will fit my bike . Thanks man
Great bike and upgrades. I've ordered this bike in the s3 too. I'm 5'6" so I'm hoping it will be fine. In regards to thr brakes I'm not too sure where I saw it but someone said to swap the tektro pads for shimano ones. At first I'll run whats in there and see how it goes first. 👍🏼
That’s a great suggestion on the brakes. Congrats on the bike!
@@TXMTBN hi again. The stumpy arrived on Friday, wow what a lovely bike. I went on a 24mile off road ride today and everything was setup for me and my weight at the bike store, I found the brakes a little weak in the beginning but after a few down hills they were much better and felt alot more bite from the tektro bakes and pads. I found the suspension to be awesome too, even though I was comparing them to my hard tail claud butler mtb, great for jumps and drop offs . Also I found the tyres to be great too but they are still tubed, this will be changed soon. The tyres are good for the mud at the mo but guess they will be changed in the sumer months. Love it, will keep you updated. 👍🏼
Congrats on the new bike!
@Boys & Toys. How was the S3 size. I'm 5'6 without shoes so we're about the same. Do you feel you should have gone S2? Thx
I have same bike. Wheels will be a biggie and the suspension. The fox 34 is much lighter than the RS 35.
How’s the fox 34 treating you?
@@TXMTBN it’s a great fork. Tried em all over the last couple years. DVO, Marzocchi, Fox factory stuff. For what I ride 90% of the time the fox 34 is perfect. I pitched the stumpy went back to carbon frame bike.
Where do I get the bottom eyelet bushing I’m trying to upgrade the rear shock since the Xfusion doesn’t have a flip chip?
I have the same bike. I'm very happy with the overall quality of the frame, forks, wheels, and suspension. The first mod that I did was to cut an inch & a half from each end of the handlebars (personal preference). But when I start doing upgrades, the rear derailleur will be the first thing to go. It shifts about as quick as a farm tractor! I'm not even going to wait for it to snap at the knuckle, since we've already been warned. I tapped on it with my fingernail, and YUP, it's PLASTIC!
Oh, hey, I like what you did with the cranks, and BB. Nice upgrade!
This is really making me what to jump into the rear derailleur!
@@TXMTBN Hi Dan,
So, I ordered the same BB & cranks that you got. On your video, you talked about the sprocket that you chose, but I don't think you mentioned if you went with a 30 tooth, or a 32. Thanks for the good video.
Thanks Steve! I went with the 32t and swapped out with a 32t absolute black oval. Factory is 30t.
Did you use the same original length with the 32t?
On the crank arms? If so, yes I stayed with the 170mm that comes on the S3.
I am thinking about changing Guide R to Magura Trail sport
Question: Do you think it'd be safe to run 2.4 tires on a 25 mm rim? The way I figured, since I'm running 2.2's on my st i25 rims now, the extra .2 inches (.1 on each side) shouldn't hurt all that much, if at all.
P.S. By the way, the bike is not a Stumpjumper, so yes I know the frame definitely can limit tire options.
Cheapest way to save weight would be tubolito inner tube
If upgrading the front tire the Rekon Race is better in every respect than the Ikon in terms of rolling speed, cornering control, and braking traction.
Makes sense
What spacers did you use on the left and right side of the dub bb with this gx crank set? Having trouble with my chain getting jammed on the back pedal
Have not done the install yet but according to the BB used here you need the 3mm outer spacer on left non drive side and a 5mm outer on the right drive side. I do not think the BB comes with a 5mm space. Three largest is 4.5 mm
Any idea what brand the rear hub is? on the Specialized website its unbranded. Trying to decide if i can even upgrade the engagement on this hub and or add an XD freehub for a GX cassette. Seems like a new rear wheel and hub is the option right now. thx
No idea on the rear hub brand.
I have a 2021 basic stumpy also and I have to agree with you. Their factory brakes do suck!
Hey Michael, thanks for stopping by! For my money it was definitely the top priority.
Can I use the existing SX front ring with GX cranks? Did you try the 32T? I am also struggling to decide on 2 vs 4 pot brakes. I am thinking of keeping them equal. Finally my factory tubeless rim tape leaked through at least 10 spokes. Would love to see the full brake install. Thanks for the awesome videos!
Yes on sx ring and gx crank compatibility. On the brakes, what’s your weight : ) and riding conditions? One the factory tape, bummer, same happened to me! Always good to keep some tape on hand.
@@TXMTBN Thanks for the feedback! 155lb Intermediate to aggressive trails with roots, rocks, good dirt and some moderate downhill and technicals. I heard the 4 piston modulate better than the 2 piston. Are you seeing the same? My 2 piston Shimano BR-MT200 are like on or off when it comes to my gravel bike. Not sure about going from resin to metal pads either.
Also Did I see you add rim tape over the factory tape? Did you use ISO alcohol? Thanks again. Great channel!
I agree - from my experience - on the modulation being slightly better on the 4s (I’m on Shimano brakes). For your weight I’d be tempted to follow your gut and go with 2s. You can always do a 203mm in front and a 180mm in the back to up the brake game while sticking with 2s.
My tubeless started leaking through the spokes as well. But it was due too the tape. The tape itself appear to be the best DT Swiss tape without the logo on it. It turned out to be the valves the shop used was a flat style valve with o-ring instead of a cone seal type valve, this was allowing air to pass through the valve seal and entering the channel between the tape and inside part of the wheel. Havent had any issues since swapping valves!
Also, I believe with the boost crank is a 3mm offset and non-boost is 6mm offset. I ordered a 3mm offset 30t just encase my sx one doesn't work
hi my upgrades:
Handlebars race face carbon 760mm rise 20
SRAM DUB bottom bracket
SRAM NX crankset
SRAM GX 30T
derailleur sram nx
brakes shimano xt
disc galfer wave
ammo fox float dps performance elite
Post Vittoria Syerra
Ant Kenda Karma 2 Pro SCT
Next wheels 1.6kg and gx-1275
Sweet!
Enjoy it out there!
Great video !!!
Thanks fro stopping by
Well about mix and match, same like shimano. As long as it's same speed
Thanks for adding that Maz!
I want to replace my cassette with Garbaruk one piece cnc machined from poland which has the same weight of X01 half the price.
What tool do you need for installing the DUB bottom bracket?
If you still need it Acekit Bike Headset Cup and Bottom Bracket Press Installation Tool BB Install Tool for BB30 and BB90 www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ1CNM9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G8EWP1Z5705XNV4C0BPA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi there, thx for the video, quick question, did you swap from a 30t to a 32t? Just wondering because I thought that the stock one is a 30t
I don’t know that there is any exact right answer here, but my thought was to get the advantages of the oval ring and keep my down hill / fast flat speed. Apples to apples (or round to round) definitely easier to climb on a 30t vs a round 32t.
Hi there. I'm upgrading the brakes to the deore m6120 which is the cheaper version of the xt, how much more power is there from the stock tektro? Also is it good to run on the stock rotors?
You can run them on the stock rotors, but I would swap those too eventually - the seem like part of the problem. I’d expect to see a noticeable difference based on my experience swapping to the XTs.
@@TXMTBN on great thanks for that. Did you eventually swap your rotors too?
Sure did
Anybody knows what shok shim tune used on spumpjumper?
Switches his tires to cross country tire but then says he does downhill and gets 4 piston breaks....
Also worried about mud in an area where folks aren't supposed to be riding wet trails. Lol
Hi, how much pressure do you have on the rear shock?
NX also uses the traditional shimano freehub, GX and up you need the XD driver free hub, Also you do not a special tool to remove the sx crank just an allen wrench, it is self extracting
Hey James, thanks for stopping by. I’d love to see a video of the self extracting sx cranks. The ones that can on the 2021 Stumpjumper alloy were definitely not self extracting.
And thanks for the note on the sx and nx cassettes being compatible with conventions free hubs.
@@TXMTBN You wont need a video, The crank accepts 2 sizes of allen wrenches, The larger size loosens clockwise and removes the top cap/extractor. The smaller size Allen fits in deeper and loosens anti clock wise. Just loosen the smaller one and will self extract. I just took one off last week.
Could you tell me a little more about switching the drivetrain out? I'd like to do a full Sram GX switch back and front, what would you recommend for the back bracket? and what is the power spline you mentioned? Does it come with the front crankset?
I just got mine few days ago. My lbs told me that the rims and tires are tubeless ready; just need the valve stems and sealant to go tubeless. But I see you listed the Amazon link to rim tape. Are the rims not tubeless ready?
Congrats! Factory wheels and tires are TR. I would always have some extra tape on hand in case you accidentally damage the factory tape or run into any issues with it. Nothing worse than getting it all taken apart then not being able to button it up. If you take care when taking your tire off you will probably be okay without it, but good to keep some in the your kit.
Also I did a vid on the tubeless setup if it helps.
Tubeless Tire Setup on a MTB (Stumpjumper Alloy or Any Bike) th-cam.com/video/sBydRnln0bc/w-d-xo.html
Will the stumpy be able to fully change to 27.5 without no issues?
I wouldn’t recommend it, it would lower the bike even more leading to more pedal strikes etc.
Nice, I may be getting exactly this bike in 2 weeks!! How long do you think can I have fun with this bike before I should upgrade the breaks? :) It will be my first fully so I'm not experienced..
That’s awesome. Congrats. I would say it depends on what kind of riding you will be doing. They will serve you well as you learn into the bike, if your not doing super aggressive riding right away. I’ve also heard from some that they work a little better after wear-in (true for brakes in general). I would just get in the saddle and see how they suit you.
Hi guys! Im thinking to buy an stumpjumper but I need help to choose de correct size, Im 178 centimeters. What size es better to me S3 or S4?
Go to the specialized website for the Stumpy model you want. There is a sizing tool there where they ask for height, distance between knee and ankle, ect. It's pretty accurate, told me I was an S5 based on height but came down to an S4 after I added all my measurements. My S4 fits me like a glove
Sizing tool on the site is a good start. At 178cm your going to right between S3 and S4, so you will have to decide to go up or down. I’m on an S3 (I’m one inch taller then you), but feel like I could easily go to and S4 and probably would have, but I tend like to pass my bikes to my sons, so I bought an S3 to better accommodate my youngest. Also, consider riding style which is partly the idea of the S sizing. If you want to be able to handle the bike a little more aggressively you can go on the lower side, etc.
@@TXMTBN thank you very much, your comments help me to take a decision, im going to buy the S3, congratulaions for your channel!
Should be receiving new XT brakes soon. How did you install the new brake cable? Did you have to release the rear pivot?
Thanks for the great video!
Check the cable routing out at the link below.
media.specialized.com/support/collateral/0000097877.pdf
@@TXMTBN Thanks. It seems like it would help to have some string or something attached to the old brake line to assist with routing the new line.
@@swoodles I recommend you to attach both cables after getting out the old cable from the pivot side. I did that later and struggled 1 hour to pass the cable through the side arm top tube.
Don’t forget the top tube arm has a removable plate that you access by removing the rear shock for cable routing. The new cable should come with a little rubber cap with an end that slips onto the end of the old line and one that is open for a piece of string. When you pull out the old cable put the little cap on the end of it and double up a piece of dental floss through the end (long enough to get through the whole run). Once the string is out the other end put the cap on the new line and pull it through the opposite direction using the floss. Put some counter pressure on the end you started on as you pull.
@Askar Hjelmat - TeamTigers Hey, yes, cables are not the same but are included with the brakes so you shouldn't worry about that. They come already with mineral oil inside. Don't forget to buy the shimano purge kit if you buy these. After installation, there is always some air bubbles that need to be purged.
My first upgrade was the brakes. Went with shimano Diore 4 piston. Front and rear. So much better!! Next will be the derailer. It shifts really slow and crappy. Hate it.
Nice. What derailleur you going with? I’m going to upgrade to GX and will make a video of it this weekend.
i like your intro ;-)
I really enjoy your videos. I have this bike so it’s great to see hear your thoughts. I just moved to the Austin area. Would you recommend the same tire combo for the terrain?
Welcome to the area. We live 45 miles from Austin, so we are probably riding the same terrain. I like this tire combo a lot. You could also try just swapping the back out first to get a feel of the difference. Enjoy the ride!
I just got my Stumpjumper Alloy last week, looking to get the suspension dialed in without replacing it. Can the Rockshox 35 Silver take the "Bottomless Tokens" to create that progression everyone talks about to avoid bottoming out?
Yes, the fork accept up to 2 (black 32 mm) tokens
Hi, I want to upgrade the crankset same you did. Do you have a video how you installed ?
I haven’t done a video on that. Since it’s threaded it’s pretty straight forward. I do list the tools you need to pull the factory bottom bracket.
@@TXMTBN regarding dub.. for stumpy config did you need any spacers installed due to oval cog config??
@@luckvich I used the larger spacer that came with the set. It’s tight clearance, but not sure you would want anything much ticker for drive train alignment purposes.
@@TXMTBN the spacer that goes on the outside face of the crank on drive train side right?
I have the same questions about the spacers, same setup. According to the BB you suggested you need 1 4.5mm on the outer of the drive side. I have not done the build yet so cannot confirm
Hi, bought the same bike , now I wanna do the brake upgrade, thinking in going with 4 piston XTs front and rear, do you think I can fit 203mm rotor in the rear as well? what rotors do you recommend? I'm in southern california and I like to ride steep rocky downhill trails. thank you.
You could with a spacer, stock is 180mm, so requires a spacer to go to 203mm. That would be a lot of brake : ) might try the upgrade on stock discs and see if it works for you. You can always get the spacer and upgrade the disc size later.
@@TXMTBN same said a mechanich fried of mine, too much brake, def gonna try stock rotors. Thank you!
@@TXMTBN So I did end up getting the 4 piston XT's front and rear, kept the stock rotors, at first didn't noticed nothing wrong with them. After a lower leg fork service I went riding and did notice that my front brake would not do much braking. Was not a good way to find out since I was on a quite choppy DH trail. I tried cleaning and resurfacing the rotors and the pads, and I'm still experiencing a lack of braking power specially in the front. In order for the front brake to slow me down I gotta use two fingers and apply quite a bit of pressure on the lever, is that normal? I thought this brakes were gonna super powerful brakes. What are your thoughts? I'm only asking cause I know you have the same brakes in the front with the same rotors same bike too. Thanks
That should be plenty of power. Things I can think of would be bleeding them, rotor contamination or maybe the combo of pad and rotor just isn’t optimal. If you don’t need a bleed, I’d replace the rotor next and keep the other as a backup.
@@TXMTBN thank you, I took it to the bike shop and the tech did a bleed. I'm about to go try it out now and see how it brakes. 👍
How difficult is it to make this thing where I can put the Spyder powermeter from SRAM on it? Thanks
Hi great video, I've got the stumpy with 27.5 hi low axle, can I install the micro spline hub to this axle. I think it's the low end price axle most of the roval wheels appear to have dt swiss but I cant find any info regarding this .
Regards from the other side of the pond. 🏴✌
If it uses the same hub as the 2021 alloy you will need the micro spline free hub. I believe the part number with Specialized might be S202100006. Hopefully that gets you started on your search!
Hey there, being that you're on the 27.5 model that is no longer produced, you are most likely running the older and most common Shimano free hub body. Microspline freehubs are only really used with the higher end Shimano drivetrains such as XTR. I'm curios your reasoning for changing your free hub body, you must be upgrading your cassette?
@@Hesster_dj
Hi I looking to upgrade to 1 x 12 SLX or Xt and both require the shimano micro spline , I could fit the deor or sun race version on the old hub but I'm trying to get the weight down a bit so would prefer the xt.
@@lansdorf Totally makes sense. I wish I knew what year bike you are talking about. Not knowing leaves me a bit usnure of what drivetrain you currently have. Butttt in any case, you should have zero problem swapping your free hub body. It shouldn't be dependent on your wheel/hub that came stock with your bike. And honestly the easiest way to get it done, is walk into your local bike shop. At my shop we get questions like this almost daily, bring in your wheel, and then parts can get swapped very quickly.
Do you recommend just paying for the comp version?
Got the budget do it and want to rider more and tinker less, do it! Like to tinker and want to spend less up front by the base.
i've got the
S2 and i think the shock is 190x45 maybe 190x42,5...... what do you think it will fit the best for a shock upgrade?
i also made the brake upgrade to a pair of E bike magura mt5, love the bite on those
Given the upgrades would it have been better to go the alloy Comp version?
Hey Alex, thanks for dropping by. I suppose there might be a few reasons for buying the lower end spec and upgrading for the Stumpjumper alloy. In my case this was the only bike I could find during the pandemic, higher spec bikes were next to impossible to find. I think some might upgrade to get the exact upgrades they want or be limited by budget and want to do it over time.
@@TXMTBN thanks mate great points. Yeah bikes are rare as hens teeth atm for sure. The main reason I ask is I’m looking at the Alloy Comp but I guess there’s the frame option and build one out also. It all adds up to money and time if you need something to ride now. Appreciate the reply.
I have the same 2021 stumpy and the specialized site says it has has the dub bracket already
Thanks for stopping by. Site should say dub cranks and spindle bottom bracket. Send me a link if you are seeing some thing else.
www.specialized.com/us/en/stumpjumper-alloy/p/175253?color=281624-175253&searchText=93321-7001
@@TXMTBN Ah, you're right. Says "SRAM Powerspline". Do you have the old BB still just to check and make sure it didn't say Dub on it?
@@DexterGoneWild It’s a spline (both compatible with the threaded bb bracket on the bike) Checkout my weight video you can see it up close.
@@TXMTBN alright, I bought the dub BB and gx crank. Do you happen to know what tools were required to change them out? Any special BB tool ill need to order?
Your going to need a crank puller (see below consider a cheap one). Once you have the GX on it’s self extracting, so you only need an Allen wrench to get that on and off. I cover some of it in my weight video. It’s a piece of cake!
smile.amazon.com/dp/B0716NX7KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N0PM6KCTRWDQJN6B985W
Hi! After all of these upgrades, what is now the weight of your bike?
I'm just over 34lbs now. Still got some work to do!
What size handlebars does it have? 31.8 or 35mm?
35mm
So what was the final weight after those upgrades ?
It’s about 31lbs now.
shouldnt you have purchased the boost crankset? the one you have linked is 142 not 148 like bike specifies rear hub is
They might have changed the listing, will check, Thanks!
your fork weighs 1.25 lbs more than a fox 34.. and 1lb with a fox 36. food for thought.
conflicting weights online, but weigh it. I did, lost a pound with the 36. also, this is the hookup www.theproscloset.com/products/fox-factory-36-float-evol-air-spring-grip2-damper-tapered-steerer-44mm-offset-boost110-15mm-kabolt-axle-140mm-travel?variant=43537968136384&g_acctid=228-971-4576&g_adgroupid=146335103696&g_adid=647495279640&g_adtype=pla&g_campaign=US+-+Shopping+-+Standard+-+P%26A+-+Fox&g_campaignid=19659649859&g_ifcreative=&g_ifproduct=product&g_keyword=&g_keywordid=aud-1479137216594:pla-1656523454770&g_merchantid=123636776&g_network=g&g_partition=1656523454770&g_productchannel=online&g_productid=shopify_US_7465033040064_43537968136384&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtamlBhD3ARIsAARoaEzSuTwCL3snqcUgopT7QYd2AzFh009HmtpvM_imaIStiiTrEhdiSRUaAleOEALw_wcB.
So what did you get the weight too?
What brakes did you upgrade to?
He linked all of the parts under the video.
Shimano XT 4 piston front and 2 piston rear, links in description.
Has anyone successfully removed/replaced the rear freehub (21 SJ Alloy ST)? Cheers.
Possible to fit an xd on stock hub?
I will subscribe because I have a 2020 Stumpjumper Alloy and upgrading just about everything minus the frame.
Thanks!
Upgrade the frame......carbon!
Ha! Trying to pay for college for two kids : )
Do i need another spacer for Magura mt5 ?
I have not looked into that. Did you get it sorted? Nice brakes.
Nice
Thanks Sameer, appreciate you stopping by.
I find it hard to believe that you saved .71lbs or 323grams by changing those tires. The Butcher weighs 910g, and the Purgatory weighs 810g. The Rekon weighs 810g, and the Ikon is 750g. The difference is (163g), that's about half of what you say you saved, better check your scale. If you really want to save some weight, dump those wheels. Also, you can definitely run a Shimano BB and Crank with a SRAM rear, totally compatible. And you could have saved some coin by going with the SLX 4-piston brakes, negligible weight difference.
Great point might have been complicated by the fact that the factory had sealant and I weighed the wheel+tire before and after, so amount of sealant and tape mattered. Not very scientific on my part.
S work stikers ???
bike class)) what weight he has, I'm from russia
Weight from factory was 35.4 lbs
@@TXMTBN many thanks
@@TXMTBN thanks for the answer, a couple more questions I will be grateful to you, I am going to buy this particular bike, I will find out as much as possible about it, this weight with or without a camera is 35.4 lbs and it makes sense to make it easier by putting shimano xt I myself live in Of Russia
No camera, not tools, but with pedals.
@@TXMTBN thank🙂👍👍
How's the weight?
Hey TH. Thanks for stopping by. I go pretty deep on the weight at link below.
Stumpjumper Alloy Weight (2021) th-cam.com/video/1aMCWYYI-pY/w-d-xo.html
Less time weighing more time riding and you can lose that weight easy 😂😂😂
So true!!!!
Upgrade whatever breaks in my opinion lol
Smart approach!
How many times do we need to hear "schram"!!??
The proper pronunciation is "s-ram"..... call and ask ANYONE who works at S-RAM.....not Schram!
Hey Louis, thanks for stopping by. Thanks for the correction.
@@TXMTBN Sorry man, reading my entry now I can see that I can't across as less than polite, not my intention. I typed that while smiling believe it or not. Keep the vids coming, very cool.
i dont know why you didnt just buy a better model... way less BS .
plus know you have extra useless parts lying around that you paid for, for no reason.
your rear der, obviously wasnt adjusted correctly, again next time just get the bike you actually want and save money... or dont
I wouldn’t have anything to talk about on TH-cam, lol. Thanks for stopping by!