40 years ago we use to make our own bar oil by mixing a quart of 30 weight motor oil with a half bottle of STP and add a couple of tablespoons of black Moly grease. Mix to the desired tackiness and viscosity for hot or cold weather. Mix in a gallon jug and stir with a wooden dowel rod. Also works well as an anti-seize for bolts.
Just found your channel. I really like the content. I thought back to my father in law using this stuff his buddy swore by. Cheap too so win win. You didn’t want to be within 10 feet of him cutting. This crap would fly off the top of the bar like shit through a goose. Never made it to the bottom of the bar except what dripped down the bar. Flew all over. So I had a good laugh today remembering that. Keep up the great content
I cut my own firewood each summer about 6 or 7 cords, been using the same Husqvarna 345 chainsaw for the last 20 years. just have 2 bars that I switch back and forth every so often, I live just on my social security, so the budget is really tight. so I have no choice but to go as cheap as posable., but understand when you are a commercial operation you can spend whatever it takes to keep you happy. I can't afford premium bar oil and what I am using has done well for 20 years.
I have tried 9 different bar oils over the past 10 years. We have a tree service and do everything from residential work to commercial lot clearing and use a lot of bar oil. The best bar life we have found is the echo bar and chain oil. So that is all we run now.
@@stovepipe9er yes we tried some it's similar to the powertech stuff Walmart sells. It's better than no bar oil but not the best. But most people won't notice a difference in bar oils if they don't wear a multiple bars out a year and keep track of how long they last or how many chains a bar lasts in similar cutting conditions.
@@briankirwan9588 I wish I’d have read this before I bought 4 jugs of each LOL! Maybe I can return them. They were $3/gallon cheaper than echo but I want my bar to last.
I have come up with my own mixture, I buy canola oil at Aldi for $3.09 for 48 ounces and mix Lucas 85-140 . 10 ounces of canola and 3 ounces of 85-140 and it works great on my saws!
I'm a homeowner firewood guy, do a few cords per year. I've yet to find any bar oil that doesn't work just fine. Lots of tree guys do more in a day than I'll do all year. For a guy like me, which most homeowners fall into, it just doesn't matter. Run bar oil of some sort, keep your chain sharp, and your saw tuned, and cut wood.
Richard, thank you. [some] Older saws like the Stihl 028 call for lighter weight oil, specifically 20W. When I use regular bar oil, the pressure build up causes leaks, and also the high viscosity prevents adequate flow. I switched back to 20W and add either Bardahls No Smoke or Casite Motor Honey as a tackifier, at about 5% to 10% depending on bar length and temperature. It seems to work fine for coating, and adhering to the chain (Just something to ponder). I previously ran the old Getty graphite oil, and that was a splendid black mess. Just a note, that sticky residue from vegetable oil is oxidized oil, I don't even eat that crap, it would never be in my saw.
I like your common sense evaluation of the bar oils. I have never used Stihl oil, but have used Husky, Poulan, brand X from hardware stores, Countyline from Tractor supply and a few others. Since I run nothing but vintage saws, I have found the ones with the thickest viscosity and are sticky work best. If I have a bar that is .050, I run the rails at .052 for better oiling with the thicker oils. My bars last a really long time. My most used saws are McCulloch's with the over riding oil pump for putting more oil on the bars when needed. This really increases bar and chain life. Newer saws should have this feature.
I’m a timberfaller so I go through about half a gallon of bar oil a day everyday and I’ve been going 50/50 with the thickest bar oil I can find and tractor fluid seems to work just fine and cheaper
Used to buy the Itasca brand back in the mid 90s $4gal jug or $150 for 55gal drum, I find Loggers Choice brand summer blend at Fleet Farm a fair equivalent at $8.99gal and they routinely offer $10 off $50 purchase which brings the price down to closer $7.50gal when purchasing 6gals which is less than most 1quart pricing.😉
I run the Amsoil Semi synthetic, Homeowner use, never had any bar issues with it. It cost $6.59/Quart and $25.59/Gallon jug. I usually add a couple quarts to shopping cart when I place an order for my automotive oil. One thing about Amsoil is they formulate their own additives and tackifiers in house and don't outsource to anyone. The Saber 2 stroke is good lube also, but I always just use the traditional 50.1 vs the other ratios they mention.
@@richardflagg3084 Really enjoy watching and learning from your high level of expertise. Thank you for helping educate folks like me. Keep up the nice videos.
Rich, this was a great discussion. If you do any future comparisons, please run a quick test for your cold weather friends. A small ketchup cup of each in the fridge (~39 F) and then in the freezer (~0 F). This very quickly sorts out ones that don't stand a chance up north. Also, price gougers should be hung. For example, those selling Itasca gallons at $29, or $55 from one ebayer, or gouging on any product for that matter. Your Itasca gallon at $10 something looks like a bargain 4 months later in a quick Google search.
I cut mostly in the winter time, -10 to 20 degrees and use a winter blend. I find thinner to be better cold. I have burned up bars using summer blend in the winter, it pours out like molasses at -20 degrees
I run summer blend both summer and winter, winter months oil is put in cab on way to job site so it warms up a bit before being poured into the oil tank where it warmed up by the saws engine. I mostly try avoiding cutting until it warms up to around 0-F
The countyline oil used to be pretty good.. Loved it . Pretty thick, sticky and stringy. Chain always looked well oiled. Last couple gallons I have picked up seemed to be pretty thinned down.. enough that I either mixed it with stihl orange or added some lucas till it felt better.
I switched to the red Madsens oil. We use our saws on wildfires. Hard use all day and that bar oil in my opinion is better then anything we use. I also use it in my falling 661 with a 36” stihl light bar.
When I crank up a saw I put it on a folded up shop towel on my work bench. After it warms up, I take it to WFO and look for a good solid streak of oil at the end of the bar. After a little bit f this I will have a thick streak of oil on my workbench.
I just watched a project farm vid on chainsaw bar oil, he did quite extensive testing and found the cheapest bar oil performed the best in every test, harvest king brand. The Stihl performed the worst and had the least (almost non-existent) wear inhibitor additives in the oil. Funny how the guys selling you bars and chains have the worst oil and causes them to wear out.
Bought that Stihl bar oil these days. 1.32gal or 5 liters for 12.8 bucks here in Europe. That's a lot of cutting for any Stihl owner out there, since the company still hasn't figured out bar lubrication or air filtration. I feel like I'm good for another year with that.
Thrifty SOB checking in: used filtered auto trans oil, has not been a problem on all my ported saws. 10+ years and no issues, after warm up WOT. 🙂 Chains wear, sprockets wear, bars wear, all your points are spot on.👍 Very delicate balancing act. The best advice I received, learn how to sharpen properly and learn how to touch up on the bar after a tank. As long as the saw self feeds, that reduces a lot of heat and wear.🌲🪓 Happy and safe cutting!💪💪💪
Sounds reasonable enuff Mike. Big difference between that oil, and used engine oil. I don’t care if someone filtered motor oil with a hookers nylons! 😳🙄 Still not wise to use it Stay safe! 👍✌
Same here, that and used hydraulic fluid. Not any tacifiers in this unfortunately and it goes through my saw like water through a duck but my bars aren't worth today's crazy prices to me. If I was making a living off sawing, the story might be different.
I've used 80/90, 75/90 summer versus winter, and add Lucas Stabilizer at a rate of 1 cup per quart, works better than bar oil for me, only down side is no color for indicating flow, but if that is critical, get the dye from a bulk dealer that they dye their off-road with.
We have place up here can get it 5 gal bucket around 55-58 dollars so your still spending 11-12bucks a gallon also available in 20 or 30 weight but I tell you so handy not having to run out and get it that sold me plus use the laundry soap container with the nice pouring spout
Forever I've used stihl bar oil. Was $11 a gallon for the last 3-4 years while husky was $18. I tried that MAG oil and it reminds me of the walmart shit, real thin but fine for winter.
I do my guide bars ones a month grind flat the rails and when the .050 gets sloppy I put .063 in it I have never squeezed a bar rail. My shit cuts straight...
We have also tried a few different brands of bio oil and it just sucks. Only time it is used is when we work near sensitive areas or costumers request it.
Project Farm tested: best is Harvest King als o one of cheapest. Bar oil is often cheap mineral based base stock with poor additive package apparently. That's how the oil companies get rid of their mineral bases stock. You paying top price. Good profit margin.
I have been getting the STP premium bar oil here, it goes on sale every few months. Stuff is great, extremely tacky, maybe a little too much in the winter.
I got some Kawasaki brand bar oil for $11 gallon at a local saw shop. Been running through some Jonsered winter oil I have left and then on to Makita summer and winter that I get for ~$11 gallon. Ran Husky for years till the price got dumb.
I go through about 3 gallons of oil per year. I usually just buy what’s on sale at a farm store. I always pick up two. Usually I buy mine at our local MFA and they have a 5 quart jug for $9.50 a jug. Hasn’t gone up in the 5 years I’ve been buying exclusively from there. Most farm stores are around $10 a gallon when it’s on sale
The best bar oil for the money is Echo Premium bar oil from Home Depot. It is an all season oil. I buy it for about $12 a gallon plus my veterans 10% discount. I like Stihl Platinum but I ain’t paying $20 for a gallon of it. I have never tried Husqvarna bar oil because none of my local suppliers carry it. Ace Hardwear Carrie’s Echo bar oil rebranded to their name for $16 a gallon.
Gotta be honest. I like that pro select.cheap lowes oil especially with these stihl light bars .everything else won't oil properly on bars longer than 20 inches .wich I use 24c38 32 36 .and top hand les...I've tried sometimes mixing them.but the name brand oils fir me at least dint oil .and I even drill my oiler holes out with diamond dremel .the light bars especially. Don't even bother running those heavy ones anymore they sit on shelf ..these bar tips get a slight pinch and constantly maintaining ,filling greasing bars.tips..but have had no issues with the cheap oil.every time I try the stihl oil or brands it just don't oil.
I’ve been using “cam2” at rural king used to be $5 a gallon now it’s 6.99$ not the best obviously but I do a lot of milling with it and havnt burnt any bars.
I buy the cheapest bar oil available, but I always buy summer oil. I thin it out in the winter with diesel. After every day of cutting I remove the bar and clean the groove and oiler holes and flip it, I have not worn out a bar yet.
That’s what we do, buy what bar oil is cheap and thin with diesel if necessary. Any reason you flip your bar every day rather than wearing out one side?
I use vegetable oil from the supermarket. Its cheaper than any bar oil and works great. Only problem is you must drain it off if leaving to stand for a while as it goes all sticky and thick
Last couple years I've been buying the husqvarna x-guard from lowes for 12-$13 until this winter, when they went up to $24.98😱 still have a couple gallons but when I'm out, I've narrowed it down to Itasca for ~$11 or echo for ~$13 locally. If you like the Itasca, it'll be my next bar oil purchase! Can't stand used motor oil. Had to clean up and work on several saws that were using it🤮
Current MSRP for X-Guard is $23.99. I logged onto the dealer website yesterday. Shameful of Lowes to have it priced that high. I worked on a guys saw that had used fry grease in it. Saw smelled like fried chicken 🤣🤣🤣
I live in Texas, I ask around about the bar oil but most people never heard of it. Can we buy it from you and the preferred 2 cycle oil. I have Stihl products and been using the Stihl ultra oil. I always mixed it .9 gal no-ethanol gas to what every the single container is. I would like a little more oil for lubrication. I stayed up late last watching all your video's on the HP ultra. Are you good with Echo bar oil and Dominator 2 cycle oil?
Yes, oil prices are silly. Just keep an eye out for wear with the blackmaxx. For another dollar or two the Echo seems to be the best bang for the buck.
Well I have been running the Stihl platinum bar oil (silver jug) in the summer and the Stihl winter (blue gallon) in the winter. Are either of these oils bad oil? I don’t cut enough for the price to be an issue, I probably only use a gallon of the summer oil a year in my saw. I cut more in the winter so I might run 2 gallons on the winter oil a year.
Have you noticed any change in Platinum bar oil. I had a couple of customers say the oil seemed thinner about a year of so ago? Other than that Stihl makes very good bar oil. Just a bit pricy.
@@richardflagg3084 Now that you mention it I believe it was thinner than it is now. I don’t remember having to use the winter oil in temperatures above 0F before? I find myself blending the winter oil with platinum in the late fall and early spring. I don’t remember having to do that before. Unfortunately I can’t say for certain as I really didn’t pay much attention to when I had to thin it out and what the temperature was.
The stihl bar oil make my chain smoke now I have hade Pretty good sauces with husky now they did have a winter blend but have not found it in like 2 yrs now ther is some biodegradable out there but it’s like 45 :00$ a gallon on amazon i think dewalt has one 2 but like you where saying everybody is getting cheep with there formula and wanting a arm and a leg for it
Hot shots makes TBN booster. Less than a buck an ounce. It will de-acidify used oil. It’s a renewed CK4 addictive package. Cleaning and adding FR3 anti friction. I’m not sure how much would be needed to clean up used motor oil for chain saw use but it would work. Cost wise I’m not sure what the math would be. How much base number increase of used oil would be needed. A PAO full synthetic high zinc diesel oil would probably be ideal to treat and use in a saw.
Does anyone know what Husqvarna bar oil doubled in price in the last year or so? I used to bounce back and forth between Lowes Husqvarna oil for about $13/gallon and at Home Depot Echo oil for about $13/gallon. Out of no where, Husqvarna bar oil almost doubled in price overnight (right around the start of the chain supply issue).
Lowes is $2 above MSRP currently and they buy it cheaper than ANY dealer. Giant companies will raise prices at the tip of a hat to keep shareholders happy. Mom and pop will share the burden of high prices through hard times. It's just that simple. Don't take my word for it, ask mom and pop.
That is my question, why did husqvarna msrp almost double in the same amount of time it takes a popcorn fart to deliver it's deadly knock out punch? Take a look at both MSRPs, you'll see that husqvarna's price is out of whack.
I have a problem with my Echo CS400 cramming wood chips in the bar groove when using the Echo bar oil. Is it the oil or something else. It gets so bad that it even locks down the chain to the bar!!! I'm cutting old falling trees if that info helps some.
Doesn't sound like a bar oil problem at all. Check the bar and make sure the bar groove width is consistent. I'm wondering if the bar is tweaked or the two halves of the bar have delaminated (split)?
@@richardflagg3084 Here is the numbers... From top/back to top/front are 55,56,55. Front to back on bottom of bar 55, 54, 53. It's a .050 gauge bar. From what I see the bar is good, right?
I cannot tell the difference between the Pro Select at Lowe's and Stihl Woodcutter, aside from price. The product looks the same, the bottles are the same except color. Anybody else?
Unrelated question for you. Stihl MS 201 TC , M Tronic model. Complaint is hard to start, once started will rev up but when returned to idle saw dies will not idle . Repeats issue ....
I'd recommend pulling the muffler and make sure the piston isn't scored. Then, and I know this sounds silly, but make sure the spark plug is tight. A pressure and vacuum test next. It may be an air leak. Once that's ruled out, if it has the older black fuel solenoid I'd replace it with the upgraded "grey" solenoid . I've got a video on just that subject. Just make sure to check the numbers on the ignition coil. Sorry I just made that complicated. It's just not so cut and dried. Any idea how old the saw is?
@@cbnx82703 When it's acting up, it's best to not run it much more until you can figure out what's making it so angry. Makes for a cheaper repair bill. Only sometimes does a reset "wave the magic wand" in my personal experience.
@@richardflagg3084 Richard my friend , gotta give you props on a good call, got into the shop this morning and pulled the clutch cover off of the MS 201 TC-M to find slop in crankshaft bearings then pulled the muffler to find a scored piston, this saw operator had to have ignored the poor running conditions and kept using this saw with an air leak, I think the worst feature of these M Tronic models saw is they will keep compensating themselves to death while a operator assists by ignorance in the burn down. Saw still had 110 psi compression which is low for this saw ... anyway thanks for your help... I work on alot saws but mostly other handheld Stihl, Echo and all the other commercial brands and have been for 42 years but Im an independent shop without the Stihl M Tronic software or programs so I don’t work on many out of just standard service interval maintenance...
No. The corporations aren't charging what makes shareholders happy. They are charging what makes the government happy. Corporations are much easier to control than thousands of small businesses. All part of the plan.
That Itasca Bar Oil is awfully good bar oil, my "local mom and pop'' however charges $25/gal for it though but i have bought it a few times as its right up the street less than a mile away, driving 15mi each way to local Tractor Supply store gets me Countyline bar oil at $9/gal which I bought 2 of but haven't tried yet
Ill tell ya what, i just received a saw that was my grandpas, and par for the course with him, it was full of used engine oil… HOWEVER, i think that all he ever used… AND the saw is a minimum of 15 years old. That being said im not sure how old the bar itself is. Sadly he passed so i can only assume he’d replaced the bar at some point, but im unsure of when. I have an old mcculloch, and i just run sae30 because of the manual oiler
And also my personal stihl i use the stihl bar oil, and it doesn’t seem to oil very well. Could be a weak pump I suppose, but i just cut it a bit with some 30 weight to get some more oil onto the bar
At 2:23 that ProSelect bar oil I've tried it and it truly sucks.. at cold temps it solidifies and won't flow and at warm temps it gets so thin that it doesn’t lube well at all. I had someone on ebay sell me 6 gallons of it with a couple sets of free high-temp furnace gloves as packing for $30 2yrs ago so that was a good deal but I would NOT EVER pay $12/gal for it
I got a gallon as a sample. Nice stuff, just too expensive to justify. To be fair that was a few years ago when decent bar oil was $8ish/gal and the Amsoil was like $15ish. It may be about the same price with all the increases we've seen with petroleum products.
@@richardflagg3084 Good to know. I'm an Amsoil dealer and their bar oil seems to get no chatter on TH-cam at all. I sell lots Saber and Quickshot, just not the bar oil.
Straight Canola oil doesn't oxidize as readily as most other plant or bio oils. I leave it in my tank all year without issues. What I HAVE seen it do is combine with pine pitch to form a solid if you leave it on the bar and chain it sit for 6 months or more. It will come free easily simply by using fuel or more canola oil on it to clean it. Put some grease or dirty oil on your finger and then clean it off with some canola oil. It works. But if you use your saws regularly, you will not see issues with canola. Also, I can not say how well it works in high temp or low temp areas as I use it mainly in Ireland and the UK. While it isn't as tacky as bar oil, it also flows more freely than bar oil, and has good film strength. You will use more of it, so it's over all lubricating and cooling properties may be similar. It is also an oil you can just eat - so it is non toxic to the environment and to yourself. It's the pricing that was the main advantage, though. Now here in Europe, we still have the pricing advantage. In Europe, petroleum base oils have a very high tax rate. Rapeseed in many European countries has zero tax, it is not even taxed at the food tax rates, and the farming is partially subsidized. Rapeseed can be as low as 65 cent to a euro for a litre, so about 3-6 euro a gallon depending on when and where you get it. Bar oil is 3-5X as much. At such prices, you can buy a new bar nearly every week and not lose money in a busy outfit.
That’s what I like ‘bout you, Richard, You’re a man’s Man! 😆 I admire anyone that cuts through the Bull. Echo Bar oil is a good deal and a good product. I prefer Husky oil, but not at the recent elevated prices, as ‘Aaron Powell’ commented on, and as shown in your video. I was able to snag a few gallons of the Husky bar oil at a local dealer, and they had marked them at the previous price by mistake, so I got them for about 13.00 each. Will have to look up that Itasca... Anybody uses old Engine oil is a moron, no apologies. All the junk and particulates and by products of the oil doing its job in the engine, aint good for the bar and chain. I’ve been near a guy that ran that crap, and his chain literally self destructed off the bar. Yeah, might have been other contributing factors, but I don't get it?
@@richardflagg3084 I just work on my own crap, so I trust when you say it’s much lower. With that, maybe those people should buy the more expensive oil to balance out the no or lack of maintenance aspect. I’m just a homeowner infected with CAD, so the bar oil, fuel and 2 stroke oil costs are not a deal breaker, as I’m not making a living with my saws. Thanks for the heads up on the Echo bar oil, I’ll shop it from now on, I don’t think I can get Itasca here. I’m a Dominator guy for 1600+ pages of reading and testing that I won’t go into, however I’m running a test with Dominator at 25:1 in a 1996 55 husky that has run everything known to man in it and is super carbon dirty. Also the same test in a 87 268 albeit not quite as dirty of saw with RA with no history of what was run in it. I’m at a tank through each so far and as far as cleaning ability in which historically the RA is the clear winner, the Dom has cleaned about 1/2 of the exhaust port carbon on the 55, while the RA is really cleaning up the piston crown better. Thanks again for a great video.
@@richardflagg3084 I’m a Reliability Technician by trade, feelings and opinions don’t work in my business, only facts and data, weather you like them or not. Trust me when I say the 1600 plus pages of 2 stroke thread oil pissed a lot of Karens off with pictures and facts over what someone told them. There are only 3 super solid oils at slightly richer than 50:1 that I’ll run, you have tested 2 to date.
@@mrxlh Low hanging fruit to get someone's panties in a bunch when you start talking 2 stroke oil for sure. We've had a pretty civil discussion so far on my channel. I hope I didn't curse myself.
I never see this discussed in these videos: WHAT about ATF??????? I was told to use ATF many, many years ago. Did. Never had any problems. Plus, you can get half filled quarts or better of ATF at yard sales, auctions, etc., for next to nothing. Just wanted to ask if anyone has a good, factual reason why NOT to use it?
I was expecting quality of brands and instead we get what amounts to 16 minutes to explain common sense of "bulk is cheaper than as-needed", which is true 90% of the time. Yes, we can all see it's screwed up that big box stores charge only double the price (or less) for a gallon than a quart. That quart isn't there for you though. That overpriced quart is there for the city homeowner who will use only that quart for the entire year and doesn't want to store the rest of the gallon for an unknown period of time. So to them, they're saving a few dollars. No one who runs through oil is going to buy a quart that they'll need to replace a week or month later. That's capitalism.
40 years ago we use to make our own bar oil by mixing a quart of 30 weight motor oil with a half bottle of STP and add a couple of tablespoons of black Moly grease. Mix to the desired tackiness and viscosity for hot or cold weather. Mix in a gallon jug and stir with a wooden dowel rod. Also works well as an anti-seize for bolts.
Just found your channel. I really like the content. I thought back to my father in law using this stuff his buddy swore by. Cheap too so win win. You didn’t want to be within 10 feet of him cutting. This crap would fly off the top of the bar like shit through a goose. Never made it to the bottom of the bar except what dripped down the bar. Flew all over. So I had a good laugh today remembering that. Keep up the great content
I cut my own firewood each summer about 6 or 7 cords, been using the same Husqvarna 345 chainsaw for the last 20 years. just have 2 bars that I switch back and forth every so often, I live just on my social security, so the budget is really tight. so I have no choice but to go as cheap as posable., but understand when you are a commercial operation you can spend whatever it takes to keep you happy. I can't afford premium bar oil and what I am using has done well for 20 years.
I have tried 9 different bar oils over the past 10 years. We have a tree service and do everything from residential work to commercial lot clearing and use a lot of bar oil. The best bar life we have found is the echo bar and chain oil. So that is all we run now.
Any chance you tried the Laser bar oil they sell at Home Depot in Canada or the Nemco they sell at Lowe’s?
@@stovepipe9er yes we tried some it's similar to the powertech stuff Walmart sells. It's better than no bar oil but not the best. But most people won't notice a difference in bar oils if they don't wear a multiple bars out a year and keep track of how long they last or how many chains a bar lasts in similar cutting conditions.
@@briankirwan9588 I wish I’d have read this before I bought 4 jugs of each LOL! Maybe I can return them. They were $3/gallon cheaper than echo but I want my bar to last.
What kind of 2 stroke oil do you use?
@@stovepipe9er Echo bar and chain oil is always over priced at box stores, your best bet is to find a good dealer and order it by the case
Good informative video Richard, thanks.
I have come up with my own mixture, I buy canola oil at Aldi for $3.09 for 48 ounces and mix Lucas 85-140 . 10 ounces of canola and 3 ounces of 85-140 and it works great on my saws!
Damn! You're serious about you bar oil 👏
If your bar oil seems a little bit thin/less sticky than optimal, you can add some STP oil treatment to increase both effects
Good tip, thanks, I've been using either Bardahls No Smoke or Casite Motor Honey as a tackifier, but the STP is about 1/2 the price
I'm a homeowner firewood guy, do a few cords per year. I've yet to find any bar oil that doesn't work just fine. Lots of tree guys do more in a day than I'll do all year. For a guy like me, which most homeowners fall into, it just doesn't matter. Run bar oil of some sort, keep your chain sharp, and your saw tuned, and cut wood.
Run what you like. As long as your bar lasts and your bar oil doesn't break the bank, you're fine.
Richard, thank you. [some] Older saws like the Stihl 028 call for lighter weight oil, specifically 20W. When I use regular bar oil, the pressure build up causes leaks, and also the high viscosity prevents adequate flow. I switched back to 20W and add either Bardahls No Smoke or Casite Motor Honey as a tackifier, at about 5% to 10% depending on bar length and temperature. It seems to work fine for coating, and adhering to the chain (Just something to ponder). I previously ran the old Getty graphite oil, and that was a splendid black mess. Just a note, that sticky residue from vegetable oil is oxidized oil, I don't even eat that crap, it would never be in my saw.
I like your common sense evaluation of the bar oils. I have never used Stihl oil, but have used Husky, Poulan, brand X from hardware stores, Countyline from Tractor supply and a few others. Since I run nothing but vintage saws, I have found the ones with the thickest viscosity and are sticky work best. If I have a bar that is .050, I run the rails at .052 for better oiling with the thicker oils. My bars last a really long time. My most used saws are McCulloch's with the over riding oil pump for putting more oil on the bars when needed. This really increases bar and chain life. Newer saws should have this feature.
The older saws oil better for sure.
Most definatly@@richardflagg3084
I have a Tsumura that runs really tight and it clogs up often. The bar cleanout tool is actually necessary in the field which I don't like.
Pretty good points made here
I’m a timberfaller so I go through about half a gallon of bar oil a day everyday and I’ve been going 50/50 with the thickest bar oil I can find and tractor fluid seems to work just fine and cheaper
Used to buy the Itasca brand back in the mid 90s $4gal jug or $150 for 55gal drum, I find Loggers Choice brand summer blend at Fleet Farm a fair equivalent at $8.99gal and they routinely offer $10 off $50 purchase which brings the price down to closer $7.50gal when purchasing 6gals which is less than most 1quart pricing.😉
I run the Amsoil Semi synthetic, Homeowner use, never had any bar issues with it. It cost $6.59/Quart and $25.59/Gallon jug. I usually add a couple quarts to shopping cart when I place an order for my automotive oil. One thing about Amsoil is they formulate their own additives and tackifiers in house and don't outsource to anyone. The Saber 2 stroke is good lube also, but I always just use the traditional 50.1 vs the other ratios they mention.
Good on you for doing your research and running quality oils!
@@richardflagg3084 Really enjoy watching and learning from your high level of expertise. Thank you for helping educate folks like me. Keep up the nice videos.
Rich, this was a great discussion. If you do any future comparisons, please run a quick test for your cold weather friends. A small ketchup cup of each in the fridge (~39 F) and then in the freezer (~0 F). This very quickly sorts out ones that don't stand a chance up north.
Also, price gougers should be hung. For example, those selling Itasca gallons at $29, or $55 from one ebayer, or gouging on any product for that matter. Your Itasca gallon at $10 something looks like a bargain 4 months later in a quick Google search.
I cut mostly in the winter time, -10 to 20 degrees and use a winter blend. I find thinner to be better cold. I have burned up bars using summer blend in the winter, it pours out like molasses at -20 degrees
I run summer blend both summer and winter, winter months oil is put in cab on way to job site so it warms up a bit before being poured into the oil tank where it warmed up by the saws engine. I mostly try avoiding cutting until it warms up to around 0-F
Just checked I can get Itasca here for the same price as Echo, both at $12.98 a gallon, thanks again for a value add video.
The countyline oil used to be pretty good.. Loved it . Pretty thick, sticky and stringy. Chain always looked well oiled.
Last couple gallons I have picked up seemed to be pretty thinned down.. enough that I either mixed it with stihl orange or added some lucas till it felt better.
I agree and I checked it against some from last year and it is thinner so I added some stp and mixed it up
we have used oregon bar/chain oil for years, yes it's now 19/gal at tsc but it works well in all weather year round.
I switched to the red Madsens oil. We use our saws on wildfires. Hard use all day and that bar oil in my opinion is better then anything we use. I also use it in my falling 661 with a 36” stihl light bar.
If Madsens put their name on it, you know it’s good. Some of the most knowledgeable people right there in that building when it comes to chainsaws
I use blackmaxx bar oil. Sometimes I use 50./50 black max bar oil with vegetable oil.
When I crank up a saw I put it on a folded up shop towel on my work bench. After it warms up, I take it to WFO and look for a good solid streak of oil at the end of the bar. After a little bit f this I will have a thick streak of oil on my workbench.
I just watched a project farm vid on chainsaw bar oil, he did quite extensive testing and found the cheapest bar oil performed the best in every test, harvest king brand. The Stihl performed the worst and had the least (almost non-existent) wear inhibitor additives in the oil. Funny how the guys selling you bars and chains have the worst oil and causes them to wear out.
Bought that Stihl bar oil these days.
1.32gal or 5 liters for 12.8 bucks here in Europe.
That's a lot of cutting for any Stihl owner out there, since the company still hasn't figured out bar lubrication or air filtration.
I feel like I'm good for another year with that.
Excellent reply Sir!
I orange bottle sthil bar oil and 2 stroke oil best 4 me
Thrifty SOB checking in: used filtered auto trans oil, has not been a problem on all my ported saws. 10+ years and no issues, after warm up WOT. 🙂
Chains wear, sprockets wear, bars wear, all your points are spot on.👍 Very delicate balancing act.
The best advice I received, learn how to sharpen properly and learn how to touch up on the bar after a tank. As long as the saw self feeds, that reduces a lot of heat and wear.🌲🪓
Happy and safe cutting!💪💪💪
Thanks for checking in you Thrifty SOB! Good on you for filtering the used oil.
Sounds reasonable enuff Mike. Big difference between that oil, and used engine oil. I don’t care if someone filtered motor oil with a hookers nylons! 😳🙄 Still not wise to use it
Stay safe! 👍✌
Same here, that and used hydraulic fluid. Not any tacifiers in this unfortunately and it goes through my saw like water through a duck but my bars aren't worth today's crazy prices to me.
If I was making a living off sawing, the story might be different.
I've used 80/90, 75/90 summer versus winter, and add Lucas Stabilizer at a rate of 1 cup per quart, works better than bar oil for me, only down side is no color for indicating flow, but if that is critical, get the dye from a bulk dealer that they dye their off-road with.
I used to get those high speed rug burns on my bar. KY cured it fine.. LOL..
We have place up here can get it 5 gal bucket around 55-58 dollars so your still spending 11-12bucks a gallon also available in 20 or 30 weight but I tell you so handy not having to run out and get it that sold me plus use the laundry soap container with the nice pouring spout
Thanks god bless
thanks mate
Forever I've used stihl bar oil. Was $11 a gallon for the last 3-4 years while husky was $18. I tried that MAG oil and it reminds me of the walmart shit, real thin but fine for winter.
Great Idea! Doesn't even get cold enough around here to even think about winter blend.
That MAG oil is made by Warren Distribution, which is who makes the Supertech bar oil, same stuff different package.
I do my guide bars ones a month grind flat the rails and when the .050 gets sloppy I put .063 in it I have never squeezed a bar rail. My shit cuts straight...
We have also tried a few different brands of bio oil and it just sucks. Only time it is used is when we work near sensitive areas or costumers request it.
Great video l use echo when I do use my pole saw don't use chain saws thanks 🙂
Used motor oil for the last 40 years but mostly cutting in below freezing temps
Project Farm tested: best is Harvest King als o one of cheapest. Bar oil is often cheap mineral based base stock with poor additive package apparently. That's how the oil companies get rid of their mineral bases stock. You paying top price. Good profit margin.
Could STP blended with 30 weight oil make a good bar oil?
I have been getting the STP premium bar oil here, it goes on sale every few months. Stuff is great, extremely tacky, maybe a little too much in the winter.
Throw into the mix, buying by the drum or buying by the half tote, or full tote. Packaging and shipping is the cost added into the customer.
Where do you get that green oil .have only seen that once .on a crew somewhere out of town .
I got some Kawasaki brand bar oil for $11 gallon at a local saw shop. Been running through some Jonsered winter oil I have left and then on to Makita summer and winter that I get for ~$11 gallon. Ran Husky for years till the price got dumb.
I like the poulan pro i get it on ebay case of 4 gallons for 50ish.
I go through about 3 gallons of oil per year. I usually just buy what’s on sale at a farm store. I always pick up two. Usually I buy mine at our local MFA and they have a 5 quart jug for $9.50 a jug. Hasn’t gone up in the 5 years I’ve been buying exclusively from there. Most farm stores are around $10 a gallon when it’s on sale
The best bar oil for the money is Echo Premium bar oil from Home Depot. It is an all season oil. I buy it for about $12 a gallon plus my veterans 10% discount. I like Stihl Platinum but I ain’t paying $20 for a gallon of it. I have never tried Husqvarna bar oil because none of my local suppliers carry it. Ace Hardwear Carrie’s Echo bar oil rebranded to their name for $16 a gallon.
Gotta be honest. I like that pro select.cheap lowes oil especially with these stihl light bars .everything else won't oil properly on bars longer than 20 inches .wich I use 24c38 32 36 .and top hand les...I've tried sometimes mixing them.but the name brand oils fir me at least dint oil .and I even drill my oiler holes out with diamond dremel .the light bars especially. Don't even bother running those heavy ones anymore they sit on shelf ..these bar tips get a slight pinch and constantly maintaining ,filling greasing bars.tips..but have had no issues with the cheap oil.every time I try the stihl oil or brands it just don't oil.
I’ve been using “cam2” at rural king used to be $5 a gallon now it’s 6.99$ not the best obviously but I do a lot of milling with it and havnt burnt any bars.
That's crazy cheap. I don't have Rural King here. too bad....
Best deal around , pretty tachy also .
Yup, get it while you can. It goes fast at that price.
@@christopheromeara689 Oh, I bet
I love orange sthil oils 2 stroke oil and bar oil all i run in my equipment
I used to run Stihl oils in my saw, you should watch project farm vid on bar oil... I think you might be surprised (I was pissed)
I buy the cheapest bar oil available, but I always buy summer oil. I thin it out in the winter with diesel. After every day of cutting I remove the bar and clean the groove and oiler holes and flip it, I have not worn out a bar yet.
That’s what we do, buy what bar oil is cheap and thin with diesel if necessary. Any reason you flip your bar every day rather than wearing out one side?
@@stovepipe9er I just think that flipping the bar every time makes both sides wear evenly.
I use vegetable oil from the supermarket. Its cheaper than any bar oil and works great. Only problem is you must drain it off if leaving to stand for a while as it goes all sticky and thick
You're exactly right. It does get gummy after a while.
Last couple years I've been buying the husqvarna x-guard from lowes for 12-$13 until this winter, when they went up to $24.98😱 still have a couple gallons but when I'm out, I've narrowed it down to Itasca for ~$11 or echo for ~$13 locally. If you like the Itasca, it'll be my next bar oil purchase! Can't stand used motor oil. Had to clean up and work on several saws that were using it🤮
Current MSRP for X-Guard is $23.99. I logged onto the dealer website yesterday. Shameful of Lowes to have it priced that high. I worked on a guys saw that had used fry grease in it. Saw smelled like fried chicken 🤣🤣🤣
can you use used motor oil for bar and chain i can get all i could ever use free
I live in Texas, I ask around about the bar oil but most people never heard of it. Can we buy it from you and the preferred 2 cycle oil. I have Stihl products and been using the Stihl ultra oil. I always mixed it .9 gal no-ethanol gas to what every the single container is. I would like a little more oil for lubrication. I stayed up late last watching all your video's on the HP ultra. Are you good with Echo bar oil and Dominator 2 cycle oil?
Both of those are good choices.
I cut firewood for me and i been using drain oil
I did for long time but I added STP and mixed it up
Works fine if you filter oil first
Slow and save money
Rich that's the same bar oil I get, $7.99 @ the bent can store I told you about
You gotta love a thrift/scratch and dent store. That's where it's at for deals.
I have been trying black max oil .The oil prices have crazy and I use alot what brand have you been seeing problems with?
Yes, oil prices are silly. Just keep an eye out for wear with the blackmaxx. For another dollar or two the Echo seems to be the best bang for the buck.
Well I have been running the Stihl platinum bar oil (silver jug) in the summer and the Stihl winter (blue gallon) in the winter. Are either of these oils bad oil? I don’t cut enough for the price to be an issue, I probably only use a gallon of the summer oil a year in my saw. I cut more in the winter so I might run 2 gallons on the winter oil a year.
Have you noticed any change in Platinum bar oil. I had a couple of customers say the oil seemed thinner about a year of so ago? Other than that Stihl makes very good bar oil. Just a bit pricy.
@@richardflagg3084
Now that you mention it I believe it was thinner than it is now. I don’t remember having to use the winter oil in temperatures above 0F before? I find myself blending the winter oil with platinum in the late fall and early spring. I don’t remember having to do that before.
Unfortunately I can’t say for certain as I really didn’t pay much attention to when I had to thin it out and what the temperature was.
Nice video! Do not buy the cheapest bar oil!🤩🤩
The stihl bar oil make my chain smoke now I have hade Pretty good sauces with husky now they did have a winter blend but have not found it in like 2 yrs now ther is some biodegradable out there but it’s like 45 :00$ a gallon on amazon i think dewalt has one 2 but like you where saying everybody is getting cheep with there formula and wanting a arm and a leg for it
Hot shots makes TBN booster. Less than a buck an ounce. It will de-acidify used oil. It’s a renewed CK4 addictive package. Cleaning and adding FR3 anti friction. I’m not sure how much would be needed to clean up used motor oil for chain saw use but it would work. Cost wise I’m not sure what the math would be. How much base number increase of used oil would be needed. A PAO full synthetic high zinc diesel oil would probably be ideal to treat and use in a saw.
Does anyone know what Husqvarna bar oil doubled in price in the last year or so? I used to bounce back and forth between Lowes Husqvarna oil for about $13/gallon and at Home Depot Echo oil for about $13/gallon. Out of no where, Husqvarna bar oil almost doubled in price overnight (right around the start of the chain supply issue).
Lowes is $2 above MSRP currently and they buy it cheaper than ANY dealer. Giant companies will raise prices at the tip of a hat to keep shareholders happy. Mom and pop will share the burden of high prices through hard times. It's just that simple. Don't take my word for it, ask mom and pop.
That is my question, why did husqvarna msrp almost double in the same amount of time it takes a popcorn fart to deliver it's deadly knock out punch? Take a look at both MSRPs, you'll see that husqvarna's price is out of whack.
@@w6qd They certainly have taken a "long position" with their pricing.
I have a problem with my Echo CS400 cramming wood chips in the bar groove when using the Echo bar oil. Is it the oil or something else. It gets so bad that it even locks down the chain to the bar!!! I'm cutting old falling trees if that info helps some.
Doesn't sound like a bar oil problem at all. Check the bar and make sure the bar groove width is consistent. I'm wondering if the bar is tweaked or the two halves of the bar have delaminated (split)?
@@richardflagg3084 ok I will check the bar groove width and let you know what I find out! Thanks for writing me back!
@@richardflagg3084 Here is the numbers... From top/back to top/front are 55,56,55. Front to back on bottom of bar 55, 54, 53. It's a .050 gauge bar. From what I see the bar is good, right?
My dad always put used Motor in his saw. What is your opinion on regular motor oil as a lubricant?
Using motor oil is not ideal, but will work. I'm not a fan tho. Just buy a decent bar oil.
@@richardflagg3084 Where are you located? I just bought a Stihl ms290 and I want to do some "upgrades"
Your sayings are 😂...reminds me of someone back north..
You know what bar oil I use! Lol. I bleed orange & gray! 😄 Stihl bar lube is about the stickyest that I know of.
You still get your employee discount? Asking for a friend.........
@@richardflagg3084 🤣😂🤣😂. Not any more! My 1996 046 has the original 25" STIHL bar on it. Says a lot about good bar oil!
@@richardfuerst5286 Yessir!!!
Would that be stihl synth plus?
I cannot tell the difference between the Pro Select at Lowe's and Stihl Woodcutter, aside from price. The product looks the same, the bottles are the same except color. Anybody else?
Unrelated question for you. Stihl MS 201 TC , M Tronic model. Complaint is hard to start, once started will rev up but when returned to idle saw dies will not idle . Repeats issue ....
I'd recommend pulling the muffler and make sure the piston isn't scored. Then, and I know this sounds silly, but make sure the spark plug is tight.
A pressure and vacuum test next. It may be an air leak. Once that's ruled out, if it has the older black fuel solenoid I'd replace it with the upgraded "grey" solenoid . I've got a video on just that subject. Just make sure to check the numbers on the ignition coil. Sorry I just made that complicated. It's just not so cut and dried. Any idea how old the saw is?
@@richardflagg3084 , how about a m tronic reset first ? I was thinking probably an air leak
@@cbnx82703 When it's acting up, it's best to not run it much more until you can figure out what's making it so angry. Makes for a cheaper repair bill. Only sometimes does a reset "wave the magic wand" in my personal experience.
@@richardflagg3084 thanks for the advice
@@richardflagg3084 Richard my friend , gotta give you props on a good call, got into the shop this morning and pulled the clutch cover off of the MS 201 TC-M to find slop in crankshaft bearings then pulled the muffler to find a scored piston, this saw operator had to have ignored the poor running conditions and kept using this saw with an air leak, I think the worst feature of these M Tronic models saw is they will keep compensating themselves to death while a operator assists by ignorance in the burn down. Saw still had 110 psi compression which is low for this saw ... anyway thanks for your help... I work on alot saws but mostly other handheld Stihl, Echo and all the other commercial brands and have been for 42 years but Im an independent shop without the Stihl M Tronic software or programs so I don’t work on many out of just standard service interval maintenance...
No. The corporations aren't charging what makes shareholders happy. They are charging what makes the government happy. Corporations are much easier to control than thousands of small businesses. All part of the plan.
That Itasca Bar Oil is awfully good bar oil, my "local mom and pop'' however charges $25/gal for it though but i have bought it a few times as its right up the street less than a mile away, driving 15mi each way to local Tractor Supply store gets me Countyline bar oil at $9/gal which I bought 2 of but haven't tried yet
Where did you get your saw vice?
Treemonkey. Scott Kunz
Echo bar oil Home Depot, $19.99 per gallon.
I knew that deal wasn't going to last. Thanks for the update.
Ill tell ya what, i just received a saw that was my grandpas, and par for the course with him, it was full of used engine oil… HOWEVER, i think that all he ever used… AND the saw is a minimum of 15 years old. That being said im not sure how old the bar itself is. Sadly he passed so i can only assume he’d replaced the bar at some point, but im unsure of when. I have an old mcculloch, and i just run sae30 because of the manual oiler
And also my personal stihl i use the stihl bar oil, and it doesn’t seem to oil very well. Could be a weak pump I suppose, but i just cut it a bit with some 30 weight to get some more oil onto the bar
@@bobk2111 What model is it? It may be adjustable
@@richardflagg3084 the stihl that doesn’t oil well is just a 271, i dont believe it’s adjustable, but its not my most used so im not super worried
@@bobk2111 Yup, the 271 does not have an adjustable oiler. it is what it is
At 2:23 that ProSelect bar oil I've tried it and it truly sucks.. at cold temps it solidifies and won't flow and at warm temps it gets so thin that it doesn’t lube well at all. I had someone on ebay sell me 6 gallons of it with a couple sets of free high-temp furnace gloves as packing for $30 2yrs ago so that was a good deal but I would NOT EVER pay $12/gal for it
😊
Here in Pennsylvania husky bar oil is 30 bucks and the cheap stuff was comparable to yur prices...hmm
Richard, what is your contact info for having you do some saw work? Thank you!
Thanks, I only work on equipment locally. I'm in the Upstate of South Carolina. If you're local I'd be happy to share my contact info.
@@richardflagg3084 dang, not local, Oregon. Thank you
Its the same as the husqvarna oil price is so high cause its a seller other than walmart.
On Saturday nights off, I put a little Cool Whip on my bar for the ole lady. Fat free of course. LOL. Have fun..
Anyone on here ever run Amsoil bar oil for an extended period?
I got a gallon as a sample. Nice stuff, just too expensive to justify. To be fair that was a few years ago when decent bar oil was $8ish/gal and the Amsoil was like $15ish. It may be about the same price with all the increases we've seen with petroleum products.
@@richardflagg3084 Good to know. I'm an Amsoil dealer and their bar oil seems to get no chatter on TH-cam at all. I sell lots Saber and Quickshot, just not the bar oil.
here people just run rapeseed oil in their saws without any problems. cheaper too.
Giraffe walks into the bar and says; "Boys' the highballs are on me."
The stuff you use is $46.00 a gallon at walmart
Straight Canola oil doesn't oxidize as readily as most other plant or bio oils. I leave it in my tank all year without issues. What I HAVE seen it do is combine with pine pitch to form a solid if you leave it on the bar and chain it sit for 6 months or more. It will come free easily simply by using fuel or more canola oil on it to clean it. Put some grease or dirty oil on your finger and then clean it off with some canola oil. It works. But if you use your saws regularly, you will not see issues with canola. Also, I can not say how well it works in high temp or low temp areas as I use it mainly in Ireland and the UK. While it isn't as tacky as bar oil, it also flows more freely than bar oil, and has good film strength. You will use more of it, so it's over all lubricating and cooling properties may be similar. It is also an oil you can just eat - so it is non toxic to the environment and to yourself. It's the pricing that was the main advantage, though. Now here in Europe, we still have the pricing advantage. In Europe, petroleum base oils have a very high tax rate. Rapeseed in many European countries has zero tax, it is not even taxed at the food tax rates, and the farming is partially subsidized. Rapeseed can be as low as 65 cent to a euro for a litre, so about 3-6 euro a gallon depending on when and where you get it. Bar oil is 3-5X as much. At such prices, you can buy a new bar nearly every week and not lose money in a busy outfit.
I shake the bottles of bar oil and if they sound like water I don't buy. The best bar oil is almost silent.
I like how you think! Good ole fashion common sense.
Just to see the environmentalists heads explode , I'll say I've been using my Mobil 1 drain oil for years now without a problem.🤯💥
🤣🤣
That’s what I like ‘bout you, Richard, You’re a man’s Man! 😆 I admire anyone that cuts through the Bull.
Echo Bar oil is a good deal and a good product. I prefer Husky oil, but not at the recent elevated prices, as ‘Aaron Powell’ commented on, and as shown in your video. I was able to snag a few gallons of the Husky bar oil at a local dealer, and they had marked them at the previous price by mistake, so I got them for about 13.00 each. Will have to look up that Itasca...
Anybody uses old Engine oil is a moron, no apologies. All the junk and particulates and by products of the oil doing its job in the engine, aint good for the bar and chain. I’ve been near a guy that ran that crap, and his chain literally self destructed off the bar. Yeah, might have been other contributing factors, but I don't get it?
Husqvarna oil is plant based.
50%, maybe even more saw owners don’t dress and flip their bars every other sharpening.
That's pretty generous. I'd say more like 15-20% if I was a bettin' man.
@@richardflagg3084 I just work on my own crap, so I trust when you say it’s much lower. With that, maybe those people should buy the more expensive oil to balance out the no or lack of maintenance aspect. I’m just a homeowner infected with CAD, so the bar oil, fuel and 2 stroke oil costs are not a deal breaker, as I’m not making a living with my saws. Thanks for the heads up on the Echo bar oil, I’ll shop it from now on, I don’t think I can get Itasca here. I’m a Dominator guy for 1600+ pages of reading and testing that I won’t go into, however I’m running a test with Dominator at 25:1 in a 1996 55 husky that has run everything known to man in it and is super carbon dirty. Also the same test in a 87 268 albeit not quite as dirty of saw with RA with no history of what was run in it. I’m at a tank through each so far and as far as cleaning ability in which historically the RA is the clear winner, the Dom has cleaned about 1/2 of the exhaust port carbon on the 55, while the RA is really cleaning up the piston crown better. Thanks again for a great video.
@@mrxlh That's pretty amazing info! Thanks for Sharing. We all get a little smarter if we just listen to results, not opinions.
@@richardflagg3084 I’m a Reliability Technician by trade, feelings and opinions don’t work in my business, only facts and data, weather you like them or not. Trust me when I say the 1600 plus pages of 2 stroke thread oil pissed a lot of Karens off with pictures and facts over what someone told them. There are only 3 super solid oils at slightly richer than 50:1 that I’ll run, you have tested 2 to date.
@@mrxlh Low hanging fruit to get someone's panties in a bunch when you start talking 2 stroke oil for sure. We've had a pretty civil discussion so far on my channel. I hope I didn't curse myself.
I never see this discussed in these videos: WHAT about ATF???????
I was told to use ATF many, many years ago. Did. Never had any problems.
Plus, you can get half filled quarts or better of ATF at yard sales, auctions, etc., for next to nothing. Just wanted to ask if anyone has a good, factual reason why NOT to use it?
ATF is just fine. I've known several people that use it. ATF used to be cheap, like everything else, so like you said yard sales keeps it viable.
I was expecting quality of brands and instead we get what amounts to 16 minutes to explain common sense of "bulk is cheaper than as-needed", which is true 90% of the time. Yes, we can all see it's screwed up that big box stores charge only double the price (or less) for a gallon than a quart. That quart isn't there for you though. That overpriced quart is there for the city homeowner who will use only that quart for the entire year and doesn't want to store the rest of the gallon for an unknown period of time. So to them, they're saving a few dollars. No one who runs through oil is going to buy a quart that they'll need to replace a week or month later. That's capitalism.
Youd BETTER ! LEAVE ! The POOR ! TREES ! ALONE !! then Top QUALITY BAR OIL is as CHEAP AS !