Single Point Thread Chasing on a Manual Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I had a small threading ob come up where the customer wanted two new shoulder bolts to match the shoulder length of an original part which requiring machining the threads further back. I show you my techniques on how to line up on an existing thread and progressively cut them to match the original. I understand that after filming this video some of this may be hard to understand or even see in the video so I would like to revisit this subject and film it again in more detail.
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Greetings Adam. Congratulations on the new shop and expansion of your machining capability. You should be very proud. Now for the hard part. Your setup was destined to ruin the original threads from the start. Locating the threading tool on the right side of a 60 degree thread with the compound set at 29 1/2, doesn't work the same for chasing as it does for cutting a thread from scratch. To simplify, imagine 2 cars on the freeway side by side, but the one on the right (original thread profile) is slightly ahead of the one on the left. Now the car on the right turns 30 degrees to the left while you only turn 29.5 degrees to the left. A collision will occur. Exactly the same thing happen to the original threads on this rework. I don't have the parts to inspect, but I'd bet ya dinner, the original thread PD is now smaller than additional threads you just cut. Align the 'V' first as deep as you can then back out the tool and creep back to that position. I hope you accept this in the good faith it was offered. Stay well.
I was wondering the same thing... not knowing how the original thread was made (process, geometry, tool wear, machine integrity, etc etc), one would be forced to first align the re-work tool to the thread as closely as possible before setting up a hard rule like the 29.5° compound setting - otherwise one is pretty much destined to cut over the original thread somehow somewhere...
I havent done it a lot, but when I do I put the compound parallel to the work engage threading and stop the spindle when in front of the threads then just dial the compound until the thread lines up. Ok so I am feeding straight in, Its a repair job.
look like the nut threaded on great to me.
Actually .... this works just fine. The right flank of the cutting tool is aligned parallel with the right side of the thread "wall". When feeding is done with the top slide, the flank of the cutting tool keeps the distance from the right wall of the thread groove. This works because the top slide is in the correct angle which makes it parallel with the right wall of the thread groove.
If Adam would have the habit of keeping the top slide parallel with the ways and would feed using the cross slide (like I do), this definitely would ruin the thread if aligned as shown. In this case the alignment is done perpendicularly to the middle of the thread groove.
@@danneumann3274 That's how I do it as well. I usually do not confuse myself with the 29 degree stuff. Actually I have my top slide dialled to be parallel with the ways. This makes it much easier to feed along Z-axis (along the ways).
Thanks for the video Adam
I am a level 3 machinist apprentice and I have to say I've never seen a thread chased this way with a compound at 29°. Fresh threading yes 29°, but for chasing, I alway set my compound 90° aka so the ways of the compound are parralel with bed. Then I engage split nut, and feed back and forth with compound using a dial on compound to show when I hit either side of the thread wall. Then I split the difference, do an eye check and this ensures youre in the bottom. Then some guys like to take some pressure off one cutting edge of the tool which is fine and would be acheived by moving compound in direction of chuck maybe 0.002". Then use oil and gradually feed in using the cross slide over multiple passes until you gently clean it up.
nice trick to know. I'm a bit puzzled by the tiny gap one could see on the close up views to the right side of the tools with the original thread : would that not mean that there is a slight misalignement of the tool with the existing thread (i.e. when one is plunging at 29°1/2 without touching to the right, when bottoming the right of the original thread will still remain a bit further away on the right side of the tool) - should not the tool be in light contact of the right thread trailing surface rather than a few thou away?
I believe we are seeing remnants of the original thread relief that was present on the provided bolts.
I saw that too, and it definitely started shaving the original threads. In the end one thread looked flattened
He is feeding the tool in on an angle, but the tool is set so the thread form is correct, tool is at 90 to the work piece.
What you are seeing is the original thread was actually tapered at the shoulder end. Watch closely around the 12:15 mark and you can see both this taper and the cutting tool slipping almost exactly in between the original threads.
@@ryanlukens9280 which is my point: should not the tool be just touching or almost the right side, since it's going to be fed in at 29.5° , hence along the right side of the thread?
Why did the threads at the transition from old to new break? If you were matching the existing threads why did you cut them as well while cutting the new ones?
They didn't break, he was machining through the original relief
That Precision Mathew Lathe is sooo quiet
Did any one notice when the thread was first being chased that there was light showing either side of the cutting tool? If you are going to go in at 29 and a half degrees to only cut on the left side of the tool then surely the right side has to be within a thou or less of the left side of the thread( to the left of the peak) otherwise if there is say 8 thou gap to the right side of the tool then the centre of the new thread being cut is 8 thou to the left all the time. Also as the tool got deeper did anyone notice that the original thread was being cut and chips were coming off. Which to my mind says my original statement was correct Adam was off too far to the left when he set the tool up to the original thread.
He addressed that at aporox 17:30.
On my badly worn Sheldon lathe I engage the half nuts then push the saddle to the right (for right hand threads) when lining up the tool with existing threads. It must be a joy to use a tight, high quality machine like that! Another great video!
The close up showing the tool tip riding in the previous thread was fantastic. Great explanation.
It's funny even though I KNOW I can engage the half nut on every other number of the thread dial, I still only go on the same number every time, just to be safe lol 😆😆
Здравствуйте. Не понял почему съело один виток резьбы между первоначальной и последующей? Там был выход резца? По видео не видно.
I noticed that too. Where it transitioned from the original threads to the new. There was a flat thread.
Я думаю, что это было старое облегчение от предыдущей темы. Когда новые нитки были обрезаны, от старых нитей не осталось достаточно мяса, и на одной нити осталось плоское пятно.
I think that was old relief from the previous thread. When the new threads were cut there was not enough meat left over from the old threads, leaving a flat spot on one thread.
12:18 It looks like the cutter is slightly ahead of the existing thread during these initial cuts. Does the 29.5 degree compound angle compensate for this by the time the thread is finished?
Yes!
Hey Adam. I think you changed from advancing at the angle to advancing on the vertical. That is why you started to cut the original threads.
Hola buen día saludos desde Riosucio caldas Colombia
Critical technique there Adam. I've done it and destroyed my workpiece and done it with perfection (likely by accident LOL). Great video and glad to see you are back home.
Interesting! Never seen that done before. Without knowing anything about the application, I won't comment on the rolled vs cut thread question. Bolt torque, etc. Don't know if it has to be exact because using a castle nut means you may have to go a little tighter to get the pin hole lined up (never back one off to do that). Mechanical Engineer (now retired) IRL BTW. 😁
Nice. I had to do something similar - I thought I'd cut a deep enough M18 x 1.5 thread on a custom bolt I was making, and found that it wasn't quite far enough - so I had to pick it up again, and do another few passes on it. I just made it up as I went along, nut cam up with more or less the same method - using the compund-slide to adjust the position sideways and cross slide for depth. It worked! ;)
Exactly the kind of content I come here for. Thanks Adam!
Really enjoyed to display of skill and technical know how! Thank you for sharing your knowledge of such an involved process - keep up the good work!
For a gear head lathe that one is sure quiet. QUALITY.
Thanks in particular for showing what's important and what's less important. Knowing that is what comes with your years of experience, and what really helps the rest of us be better. Thanks as always.
Alternatively, turn the chuck by hand (with the half-nuts engaged) far enough to remove backlash in the gear train. Then, with the work stationary, line up the RH flank of the tool with the RH flank of the existing thread. Rotate the chuck by hand a little and tweak the cross-slide and top-slide settings if necessary.
@@bigboreracing356 Maybe OK, but not guaranteed to remove the backlash since it depends on which part of the lathe stops the fastest (i.e. spindle or gears in gear train).
There is always a backlash. It would be simplier to turn the compound square, engage the feed, dive it by hand until the carriage moves, then find the bottom of the thread by playing with the compuond X and cross slide Y. Small threads can be cut by feeding Y square.
I'm glad you have a new shop but I just enjoy the videos of you working from home better but I wish you all the best in the new shop
I can't seem to locate the correct threading bar and bit for the Walter tool you used on their site, Great video , thanks so much👍👍
Internet engineers out in force in this one .
Indeed, 'I watched 10 videos about thread cutting and now I know better than a professional machinist'
In peoples defence I'm a level 3 red seal machinist apprentice and the way he chased this thread here I don't believe to be the best way to do it. That's just me having worked with this stuff I'd say a little bit too with 50 other guys. Doesn't mean I'm right but this is a trade and anyone who has certifications to back it up should be allowed to criticise. Any normal machinist is used to constant scrutiny.
@@patrickirish9427 'Any normal machinist is used to constant scrutiny'; what a refreshing counter to the tiresome 'armchair experts' nonsense. I applaud you young sir.
Looks like some of the original threads got cut up one is gone completly.
You're probably looking at the thread that is where the original ones ended and the new ones started. It is not full diameter there, that's why it is not full form.
@@vicke12343 yeah I think so
It took me watching the setup two times to understand what you were doing with the cross feed and compound. I got it after the second run through. Thanks for sharing the information Adam!
Hi there and greetings from down under, I work for a valve manufacturer and cut threads on a daily basis have done for 30 years, there is no need to turn the top slide around to halve the thread angle. Keep it set to 0 and engage the halve nuts then simply adjust the top slide unit the tool lines up with the existing thread happy days, I hope this comment might speed things up a bit for you. Cheers
3 jaw? What the hell is going on here? ;)
Very cool. Not sure I got the hang of it... but it's a wonderful demonstration of skill! :)
I would propably just have prepared that thread similar to how you did, but then cut it with a die. Should work pretty well since the existing thread gives you a nice start. But doing it this way gives you a way nicer thread, so thumbs up.
The original thread seems a little loose.
I'm looking forward to see more video like this even i don't have lathe now once you showed me i really would like to buy one and start to do my little DIY work
Thanks for making the video! I've is been wondering for awhile how to find a new thread.
Hi Adam, I just watched your program about chasing threads. I am interested in the tool you used. Could you please send me the part number for the tool holder, screw cutting insert, and the radius cutter insert. I think you got these from Zoro. Thank you in advance, Tom
If it was me I would have just bought a bolt with the same shoulder diameter but longer then cut the shoulder to length and cut all new threads, rather than chasing existing ones.
Those camera angles were perfect. Seeing that back edge just clear the existing thread and start to cut the new one was amazing. Your content never gets old!
Worked at a shop years ago where we frequently had to pickup & chase existing threads on cylinder rod ends, SKF nut threads on shafts and rolls because of damage.
Was always my job because I was the young apprentice.
Really interesting video Adam. As interesting as the main subject is here, it's actually helped me visualise the effect of using the cross slide as you feed it in, it really helps you see how it appears on a fully formed thread.
Must admit, I still haven't mastered the cross slide on single point cutting, don't know why it puzzles me so much.
I bet Joe really likes having you so close now!
That PM lathe looks so smooth to operate.
You probably heard it before but congrats on the new shop Adam! Thinking back to the first few videos and seeing what the new shop looks like now. The progress made is amazing!
Thank you for your content.
(edit spelling)
I still don’t understand using the compound for infeed. Cross slide sure, but to me it seems that using the compound on an angle is moving it both in (X) and over (Z) making it not line up with the previous cut? After this vid it makes a little more sense I guess, but just can’t wrap my head around this one. Still learning of course so thanks for sharing. I’ve learned pretty much everything I know from this channel and of course trial and error with my new lathe and mill. Which I might add is just for my personal project use for turbo applications for snowmobiles, SXS, off road racing, etc, etc. Thanks again.
I'm no master machinist, but I'll describe what I believe. The threading tool has a sharp point and a small flat on either side of the point. Feeding in with the cross slide would plunge the tip of the tool into the part and try to peel a chip from both flats, which due to the geometry is hard on that delicate pointed tool. Feeding with the compound at 29.5° tracks down one side of the thread, only pulling a chip from one of the flats on the tool. This results in a nicer chip and longer tool life.
Idk if that's clear, and maybe I'm way off. The beauty of the internet is that someone else will be along to correct me soon.
@@mulletscientist I appreciate the response. I guess the thing I’m not understanding is how when moving in on an angle it’s not moving it over as well, therefore changing where the tool is in relation to the previous cut.
It is moving relative to Z, but he attempted to set the tool to match the existing thread at full depth. He then backs the compound off to start diameter and begins the threading passes. Each pass moves the tool further towards the chuck as well as in feeding the diameter and only cutting on the leading edge of the threading tool. At the finish pass, he should reach full depth and the leading (cutting edge) of the tool should now be matched to the original thread at full depth.
In the first bolt there is a slight thread transition between the two threads. I would like to examine the part to determine what causes that obvious transition. The second bolt has less visible transition. The thread pitch match doesn't appear perfect, but it may be that the major diameter is undersize at that point and the thread doesn't reach a sharp point.
I have never seen this done before. Having a simpler mind, I would have chased the thread with a die. I will admit that when I do this, the die tends to cut the original thread and my finished part looks gnarly. He is machining SS. This would complicate my success. He didn't indicate the bolt in his setup and clamped in the 3 jaw on the knurled bolt head. I suppose that this introduced some runout error. But this is a bolt, not a precision part. His reference to cleaning up a cylinder or rod thread makes single point chasing a much more necessary method. In my maintenance experience and lack of lathe skills, I spent a lot of time with thread chasing files and triangular files to repair damaged threads. Doing this in the lathe could have enormously improved my result.
I am a skilled repairman, but I am only a hack machinist. What a joy it would be to learn this skill on a brand new machine instead of on my worn out machines. I can't justify that Walter threading tool holder and inserts, but tools like that would boost my confidence.
@@specforged5651 it is moving slightly sideways effectively "sliding" down one side of the thread towards the bottom.
It's just way less tool pressure, because you're effectively only cutting on one side of the tool. You can get away with going straight depth on smaller threads. But when you get into like 4 or 6 pitch threads, at least on tough material. Using the compound in feed is almost essential
do you think the castle nuts are cut to fit those rolled shaft threads ... in other words maybe the major of the threads you cut are a little bigger than the rolled existing threads. Do you think maybe just a file might have made those nuts spin on there easier? Instead of cutting down in that root deeper
Looks like he cut the shank to the nominal diameter, .625" instead of the major diameter, .620". You can keep cutting the pitch diameter smaller and smaller until the major dia comes in,but then you have threads that bear on the points, and not the flanks. He also overcut the existing thread flanks, not just the roots. Evidence is the nut got real loose on the original threads. -Doozer
Hey adam please in one of your episodes explain for us manual machinists, how easyer for you is work with a new lathe with DRO is it pay it of to invest in one for older machines like i hawe... i want you all the happynes becouse i so many learn from you... greethings from slovenia
DRO is one of the, if not the most convenient things you can put on a machine tool. I'd install one of those before I installed a quick change tool post.
Good job thanks for sharing
I really like this type of videos, you have been doing a bit too much unboxing video. PS: just my opinion. I know sponsors are very important to keep the Chanel going.but 😏
Great video, and perspectives... 🙂
you can see on the 5th thread it still flat thats where its binding up
I know cutting threads every day, normal for you, but it's still magical to watch the threads being cut. Especially when they match up, with existing threads, on the right hand side.
Great video Love from Scotland 5* 😁
Shouldn't the compound be at 30 vs 29.5 to chase a thread? I noticed that the trailing edge of the tool had clearance initially but was cutting at the end.
In theory, yes it should be 30. But most people use 29.5 because it ensures you clean up the RH side of the thread form, as that side of the tool makes a very slight cut as you progress in deeper. If you were slightly out when setting the top slide to 30 and it was actually at, say, 30.2, the RH side of the thread would end up being very slightly stepped and a bit rough.
Hi Adam.. it would be interesting to know your thoughts on modern machines compared to old .. let's say the monarch in comparison to the precision matthews?? Putting aside any bits of "arthritis" the monarch may have :)
THANKS FOR SHARING
what happened to the american pacemaker? haven't seen it for a while 73 dan
It is around the corner, waiting patiently! Adam has said he has a lot of plans for it!
@@paulcopeland9035 i remember that video, since the new machine's arrived, no old machine has been used
I think you didn't match it exactly and that might cause the binding you refer, the nut is catchin on the thread transition. Look at the 5th thread from the tip its thicker. When you start cutting with the zoom it looks like the threading tool is not riding on the left side of each thread it seems theres a small gap. Its should be rubbing anytime you feed the compound at 29.5 to cut the right side of the thread with the left side of the insert. Am i seeing this right?
29.5 is a magic number according to RIchard Ho(ax)land. It's embedded into the Cydonia complex on Mars and Old Navy. Go figure.
I needed (2) 5/16-18 socket head cap screws
2" long with the thread all
the way back to the head .
They don't come that way.
I did just exactly as you did . The main advantage to using the compound is your cutting on the left side of tool only. When you use the cross side you cut on both sides of the tool.
That creates twice as much surface cutting and is more likely to cause chatter in the thread . You must use another depth for the compound than the double depth marked on a
thread gage. My machiest hand book has the correct depth setting for the compound.
Did you mean the thread relief was 60 deep and 120 smaller diameter?
Is it possible to machine the hex socket in the head of a screw like that, or does that have to be stamped in to red-hot metal?
@thisoldtony has a special tool with am excenter tu machine the hex
Rotary broach.
Definitely check out the This Old Tony vid on rotary broaching. Excellent.
It is possible but not practical except when producing custom prototype parts.
@15:15 As someone who identifies as being a random nut I will try not to take offense at that comment 😂
Great wrk. Always a pleasure watching you do your thing
Kind of magical seem the transition between the factory and new thread…
Top job,Adam. One additional little tip I use is to blue the original thread with Dykem and it makes it easier to see where the tool is initially making cutting contact with the thread flanks....it does help getting the alignment spot on.
looks like your new OD (major dia) is larger than the existing threaded portion
That golden-coloured knob on the toolpost looks very nice!
It's always good to see a 'Hey Man' job turn into a learning opportunity. Thanks for sharing.
I have picked up a thread 3 times, almost back to back on customers parts, I was terrified, still am... but it can be done !
Good camera angle, especially on the first bolt. Enjoyed. Thanks.
that old bolt sure took a beating
how can anyone think that videos of cutting soap and other BS is satisfying, when there are videos like this that exist? This is a billion times more satisfying to watch.
Well, if you had a lot of soap and it was your job to make it fit somewhere, then cutting it might be interesting!
Your camera angle REALLY helped me to see what needs to be done to make it all work. Thanks
Sup Adam
Do you ever use a die to thread instead of the lathe?
No
Super helpful!
Thank you as always!
-CY Castor
i have a chart that shows infeed at 30 or straight for all thread pitches. so far it has not failed me. for normal threads i have not needed to test fit
Thanks man! Liked this one a lot!
Thanks, this helped a bunch with an assignment in my machining class
Good to know better than making a new part
🥰😍🥰
Not me Adam you do it how you want I'm watching good job as always
Maybe I'm missing something but I'm confused as to how the threads just inherently lined up with the cutter. If the part it ended up in the chuck a few thousands one way or the other then they wouldn't have. I figured there was going to be some complicated alignment process between the cutter and the already existing threads. That being said I'm no machinist so The answer is probably obvious
the compound was moved for fine adjustment while the leadscrew was still engaged but not moving
With the half nut engaged, move the cross slide in and the angled compound slide out to move the cutter laterally to line up with the existing thread. Once the cutting face of the tool touches the cut face of the thread, you can back out the compound and everything will stay in sync.
@@kensherwin4544 yeah I figured that part but I was just confused cuz didn't seem like he had to do any adjustment in the video. Maybe he just did it off camera. To the layman it looked like he just engaged the half not and it was automatically aligned.
@@DoRC yeah, I expected to see more actual handwheel twiddling, too
My assumption for chasing a thread is that you leave the existing threads untouched!? Obviously it wasn't the case here!
Adam mentioned that the original thread was rolled, leaving it with a radius at the root. Since Adam used a regular v cutting tool, it cut out the radius at the bottom of the existing thread but left the sides untouched. This wouldn't affect the function of the thread since the matching nuts would be cut with a die and have v shaped threads.
I think it was because the original thread was roll formed rather than cut.
the original thread was roll formed
Thank you Sir for sherring your expertise
is sherring when you drink Sherry and offer the man across from you a swig?
Spot on as always Adam
The close ups are really helpful.
Your explanation of how to pick up the existing thread is the best I've ever seen.
With my eyesight on a thread of this diameter I would have used blueing on the rolled portion to confirm final alignment. Shallower threads would make viewing difficult.
Thank You. Always the best.
Couldn't you have got it close with the single point tool, then finished it with a die?
I am sure that Adam could have done that but a machinist can do it the way Adam showed it. If a machinist can't then they are an amateur, not a machinist. I am a self taught machinist and like Adam it took me some time to learn how to do this. The first time you do it, there is a lot of "pucker factor". Even after that, you can't take things brazenly or future jobs will bite you.
@@bobhudson6659 I wasn't questioning his ability to do it.
It just seems like it would be a lot quicker to thread it to, say 10 thou overt, then run a tap over it, to bring it to final dimension.
@@BedsitBob This is a teaching video!!! Of course there are other ways, but when he gets a chance to explain something he gets asked about all of the time, it is cool that he videos it and we get to enjoy!!
When is pacemaker running ???
Excellent ! Just finished a 0.46-24 brake tube nut for my 63 Split window vette single master cylinder. It's the original date coded Master from GM that came on the car. Typically it's a 7/16-24. Not sure what happened or why this Weird thread made it onto a production car, but here I am, making a custom nut for the damned thing out of 12L14 9/16 hex stock from McMaster. This technique would have saved half the time and material knowing how to pick up a thread last week to adjust the length or fit. Thank you Adam for all the great content over the years.
Now, this is interesting.
What's the advantage of increasing depth with the compound? Seems like it would be easier to find the center of the thread and just use go in with the cross feed. Well, maybe easier for a beginner like me.
I think Adam likes to cut one side of the 60 degree thread instead of both where you can get some chatter
@@dizzolve Not sure, i've seen other people make new threads only using the cross feed. I haven't cut threads since high school just over 20 years ago, so chatter seems like the bet guess if any. lol.
Less chatter when cutting on the left side of the insert, instead of the full profile.. In theory. I just plunge straight in with no issues on most work. A bigger thread on harder materials can cause chatter. In practice, most of the time plunging straight in with the cross feed is fine.
@@dizzolve you are always only cutting on one side of the insert, the side towards the feed direction. Doesn’t matter what the compound is set too.
@@Jraksdhs no if you plunge straight in with either the compound or the cross slide, what I was taught is that both sides will do some cutting. I understand what you're saying but if you center the point of the tool and advance straight in, it wont just touch the feed direction
Close up shot is fantastic
Do you cut on the right side of the threading tool for rigidity?
If the thread was left hand would you use the other side... in other words...
Concerning what the drive not engages
For right hand threads, you cut the right flank of the thread as shown to take up backlash in the compound feed screw. The carriage movement is pushing tool into the work and keeping everything susceptible to backlash in the compound in compression. If you tried to cut on the left flank of the thread by swing the compound, the carriage movement is now pulling away form the cut.
For left hand threads, you do swing the compound to the other side of 90° and reverse the feed direction.
@@ElectricGears thanks c:
Hi Adam, looking at the Walter UK Web site for the G3011 insert holder I can only see holders with coolant passages. The one you used does not appear to have coolant passages. Could you post the insert holders full number please ( I tried to pause the video but I was unable to read the number) Thanks Barry
cool video!
Thanks, great video. I really appreciate the up close video during the cut. Also the shot when you're making the second bolt and we get to see how you're manipulating all the controls is really impressive and helpful to really understand what's going on.
Hi, I'm a fan of your you tube channel since almost the beginning. I have the same set of triangles for measuring pitch diameter on thread. I only have a very small chart with the set and I saw in the past that you have a very nice chart, much better than the one I have. Do you think you could post a picture of a PDF scan of your chart. I would really appreciate. Jeff
Hobbyist lathe operator here, I've chased a thread on my lathe one time in the past, and this looks much easier than how I did it. Thanks for the education.
1:20 I'm interested to see how long this takes (for the set up) and frankly, exactly how it's done ... I've never chased an existing thread before.
Thanks Adam, I have a project coming up similar to this and have been thinking of how I was going to do it. Your timing making this vidio is perfect for me! Thanks
The lathe looks amazing
Other guys, latest one in Austin Texas......, has shown this before but I never practised it, it's great to be refreshed. I do have some bolts I might need to do the same to.
Luck the bolt was that long that it the head passed the jaws.
Time 05:36, Walter tool. Surely not for a low budget hobbyist.
At time 13:15. Look from the right to the left. The 5:th ridge(?) doesn't look like matching. Something in Your syncronicing makes a bell buzz.
Both bolts show the same. I'm puzzled.
The 5th thread crest (counting right to left) Is smaller than the rest because the threading on the bolt originally was relief cut in this area. Much like he did with his radius tool. This can be seen pretty well at 11:37 for reference. That 5th crest is smaller in diameter than the rest from the very beginning.
@@itsdownfall9821 Okey. The depth in the view tricked me.
@@Stefan_Boerjesson The guy in Austin Texas would never do it this way. The setup was wrong and compromised the original threads. You must coordinate the V shape regardless of the original process and go from there.
@@joepie221 It didn't look the same......