Signature solar is a great source for solar panels and batteries ($50 off $500 site wide Coupon Code December only "EVERYDAYDAVE" ): signaturesolar.com/?ref=SALE
You put so…. So…. SO much work into this! Yeah you built an insanely cool solar generator but….. then you also made this high quality video, contacted affiliates for discounts, put every link in the description, gave us great chapters… Thank you for this. You did the community a serious solid with this one.
Funny links don't seem to work, can't link thru your click gate images, try simple hyperlinks. Your vid is comprehensive, but you overload everything and claim it works, system life is damaged when you operate this way. I missed if the 1000 watt is modified sine or not, modified sine will kill many devices, best to double check compatibility. Not a bad advertisement
Great summary Dave for assortment of basic yet capable starter options. I survived hurricane Sandy for 7 days, on a 1500W inverter tethered off the car, with a 10 mo old baby at home. I think the car / inverter setup has BIG advantages over a small generator setup too! I even saved someone with the same inverter that had no power with a sump pump.... You can run minimum energy "quietly" overnight still having essentials running - and don't have cans and cans of gasoline! Would like to hear your opinion of PURE SINEWAVE vs SQUAREWAVE inverters - like what a Sqr Wave wrecks? GREAT CONTENT for those scouts who want to "be prepared", while maybe learning something along the way (with their kids to boot) ! ! ! 👍👍
this is the video i have been looking for. many vids show how to build a solar package but not what it will run. or what you can run but not how to build it. i can finally put all the pieces together in my head. I finally understand what each piece represents so it is no longer an abstract concept. thanks man
Thank you - someone putting together a practical system ;-) Charge controllers usually have a heat sink that's designed for vertical operation. Even when testing, you should have the controller vertical for proper convection airflow. If not, you need some serious air movement - probably a minimum of 150-200CFM from a fan that matches the width of the heatsink. If not adequately cooled, good controllers usually have thermal rollback or shutdown when it gets too hot.
This has to one of the best DIY 12V off Grid Solar System videos out there to date. In depth explanations and choices of equipment to build what you need. A bonus of tip to boot. Thanks.⚡
I dont even have kids, but if i did, i would want my son to be as sharp and knowledgeable as yours appeared to be during the demonstration. Quite adept. Good job pops!
Wow, your link to diagrams and equipment suppliers and providing your viewers with several easy and affordable options is above and beyond. I like the DIY systems as they can be scaled (depending) and you can service it yourself if needed. I do have all-in-one systems by EcoFlow and Bluetti. I built a 2400w and a 4800w DIY. Love them all. I subbed and hit the bell.
This was the best DIY video I've seen. I especially like how it was tested on various tools. I'd love to do a DIY, but for the cost and my needs, I just may go with an already built system. I plan on just using it for camping, and when I do lose power, use this system for a freezer and a refrigerator. This way, I'm not constantly running the gas generator. I really appreciate you putting a well thought out and detailed video.
This is the place to come for many reasons. Great explanation of various DIY systems vs store bought. Excellent high quality videos. The best I’ve seen!
Thanks for the education. Answered many question. I’m building a system which which consist of a 160 watt solar panel with a Victron 75/15. I haven’t determine what battery to use. Probably a power queen 12 volt 100 or 200 ah. This is for camping use in a van and charging electric bikes. I think a 500 watt inverter would be enough for these purposes. Thanks again for the information.
Great stuff! Thrilled that you covered the inrush current on the inverter. I didn't really consider that when I built my own solar generator. I've got a 600 watt Giandel inverter, and I haven't had an issue with the Daly BMS. I'll dig into the inrush current limits on the Daly BMS to see if I can expand without replacing my BMS. Cheers!
I didn't expect it to be that high either. I knew there would be when the batteries were first connected, but I didn't expect another jump when the unit was turned on.
You can tap battery banks to get 24 V or even 48 V etc. and if you have 12 V devices you can run special taps off the battery banks to use 12 V. Take a look at golf carts. They have a lot of batteries to have high voltage for the motors, but then they’re tapped at 12 V for the lights.
Bravo! C'est de loin une des meilleures vidéos explicative que j'ai visionnée sur un système fait maison, avec des explications claires et précises, vous avez un nouvel abonné.
What an excellent job! Research, planning, presentation, all very well executed! I have watched hundreds of very good videos but this was just excellent! Link list is great! Thank you for taking the time and effort! Well done!
Wow! Extremely well done and informative video, sir. I have been experimenting with an almost identical setup and I use a resistor when first connecting the inverter to the battery, but I had NO idea that the in-rush of current into the inverter was that high when first powered on!
I think this system works well with light resistive loads BUT forget inductive loads and he mentions this at the end, but I doubt this setup will meet the critical test of life cycle and longevity. test with frequent cycling at different harmonics.
Excellent video. Some specific ideas to consider are: pre-charging the capacitors in the inverter prior to, securing the PV cable down so they do not get pulled out or stress the terminals. I use a battery disconnect in addition to breakers. Do not take my comments as criticism or complaints. Just throwing in some ideas!
I'm not sure why you have the charge controller hooked up to the inverter. If you were to turn off the battery breaker , that would effectively keep the charge controller from charging the battery . Plus that would be the same as having panel input with no place for the output to go, potentially damaging the controller. The charge controller should be hooked up to the battery , that way you still have the option to charge the battery with the battery breaker turned off. If you don't want to charge the battery just turn off the input breaker to the controller.
This is the most detailed, instructive and honest DIY solar generator build video explaining cost, performance and options. Fantastic video Dave, Thanks a lot!😂
I know right what a great video. Very impressive gosh it's 7 months old haha and I'm just seeing it I really like the heavy duty. I wish I could make them and sell them to people. I don't know if that would be possible. Considering the blue Eddie would be easier and less expensive for them well I might build me a portable.
@@VinceBadovinatz88Money wise buying bluetti is better, but if it breaks you’re sol, so making your own system is better long-term, because can be repaired. I might make my own so I can have spare components if/when it breaks.
Very nice video. Thanks for testing the 1000 watt Renogy inverter as i just bought one a few weeks now and so i don't have to test it because you already did so. Greetings from Jamaica.
Don't buy bluetti. Sham address out of Nevada. Phone calls go no where. Research comments on bluetti site it self. Also F rating with the better business bureau. Portable solar panels from this company failed. Good luck trying to get your warranty honored.
The comment of someone who broke a solar panel, wanted to warranty it, and is now slandering the company because they didnt realize no one warranties for abusing a panel.
Solid video, but you mistakenly labeled your mc4 connectors. I think we all have done it because they look male, but actually contain the female bullet inside.
On an extreme budget, try the Vtoman 600x. It probably won't run that 1700w espresso, but it should run most things under 1000w if they can function at 600w. A lifesaver during blackouts on the cheap.
Thanks for making common sense out solar hook up and mainly safety you point out so well. Great content and video. Just one request. Can you show how to assemble a 3000 or 5000 watt inverter 12v system please.
A 5000W inverter with 12V would require some very large cables. Why not switch to 48V? You can still get 12V like I show in this video: th-cam.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/w-d-xo.html
@@ProjectsWithDave Because it's what I have and I want to use it. I just want to know what it would take to make a system like it to work? If I need larger cables than the one's it came with, which were I think a set of 4awg. I would get larger or maybe double up my wiring, if that's posssible.
Informative video but commenting to say: Be careful microwaving water. When microwaving it can actually superheat the water without appearing to boil. When this happens water can become hotter than its boiling point without actually boiling, and when disturbed it can rapidly boil, steam, and explode. If you keep doing it put a wooden spoon or something in the water to allow the bubbles to form allowing it to boil.
We had a ice storm back in the 1990s. Back in those days the cable system could work if you put power to it. I make do with a Mercedes battery on a skateboard. 500 watt inverter. I took the battery out to the car to charge it. If it has lasted longer than a week I probably would have hooked up an alternator to A 6 horsepower motor.
Nice video. Very informative. I purchased one of those dso138 oscilloscopes with a higher voltage probe as this oscilloscope I believe has a maximum voltage input of 52v. Can you guys layout in more detail for everyone how to hook it up and test? Thanks. Great job.
I built a system like this and will make some adjustments to the wiring of the inverter to charge controller. Also was wanting to build a 5k eg4 48v battery with eg4 all in one or growatt 3000 all in one and looks like the price of about $2500. Love the way you add your findings to your systems you build. Your son seems sharp, get him to help more often!
Fantastic video, you make it look so easy. You are using a 150a breaker from battery to inverter. I am using a 12v - 200ah LifePO4 battery, would that mean I use 200 x 1.25 = would be 250 amp breaker? Thanks!
Thanks! If you use a larger breaker, you have to make sure you also size the conductors to match. However, you don't need to increase the breaker size if your load doesn't require it.
Well done. I assume ur RC circuit is in series and doesn't oscillate with L circuits in the inverter. An R load (like your heat gun) distortion is minimal but one wud like to see the sine wave distortion with an L load like a beer fridge, (although a microwave is close with large I inrush). Also u mention an AGM battery in parallel with LI TYPES (expensive): I am unsure if this is ideal as the 2 batteries have completely different Power and Density characteristics. Overall a better presentation then one get from solar panel manuals. Good tip, always disconnect properly like when boosting a car battery. Great U mentioned the Bluetti cannot cannot handle inductive loads well (that is why I have a diesel generator), and I hope ur system will persevere them (L loads) in the future.
You can use a resistor to pre-charge inverter by keeping it installed with a momentary switch, this is to charge capacitors before switching inverter on without the spike.
Great videos Dave very informative, newbie to your channel and solar, just wondering on solar charger output battery to inverter, instead of solar charger output direct to battery, it is ok to connect it without. damage to solar charger or inverter? Thank you keep videos commin
Sorry, it's not clear what connection you want to make. If you are trying to power the inverter without the battery connected, you can't do that. You need the battery to act as a capacitor as the input and load fluctuate.
I have always liked your videos but I do have a few small recommendations you may want to use for your next build like this. Code requires you have a double pole breaker between the solar panels and charge controller. You have to be able to simultaneously disconnect both the positive and negative connectors at the same time. Typically I use a 63amp Din Rail mini-breaker. The small automotive breakers don't break the connections on both poles and in a short circuit event the current could jump the negative conductor. Also you need to use fine strand flexible copper wire between the inverter and charge controller. You used what looked like THHN coarse stranded copper which can cause higher resistance and heat and it is not flexible which is harder to work with. Also many charge controller companies recommend against course strand wire. I believe bougeRV recommends against it as well. I would recommend against stacking connections on the inverter and using bus bars. You should also use either an ANL fuse or T-Class fuse between the battery and inverter (Bus bars). The breakers you chose are notoriously unreliable in high current systems. Although for such a small system they should be ok. That being said. I love the videos you do so keep up the great work.
Thanks for the feedback. The Din Rail mini-breakers are a much better choice. I added that note to my parts breakdown on my website: projectswithdave.com/12v-1500w-diy-solar-generator/
Nice setup. Only one glaring flaw. After spending more than 23 years in the inverter repair industry, I would highly recommend spending a little extra money and investing in a low frequency, transformer based inverter instead of that low cost, low surge, high frequency, transformerless inverter. High frequency, transformerless inverters are not designed for powering high inductance loads such as microwave ovens, power tools or refrigerators and can be damaged or have their life considerably shortened when powering inductive loads. The problem is low cost MOSFETs that are used in these inverters that are far more sensitive to the surges that are required by these inductive loads. When powering inductive loads, you'll typically only get a year or less worth of life from a high frequency inverter whereas a low frequency inverter will typically yield 10 years or more before needing service.
Thanks, that's a good reminder. I can tell you my low frequency Victron inverters are way better at powering inductive loads. Here is one setup I installed and tested: th-cam.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/w-d-xo.html
Just saw your video, great job and very informative. Personally I would go with the EcoFlow Delta 2. It has a 1800W inverter with a 1000 watt capacity battery. It powered my microwave, full size residential fridge, my 15amp miter saw without slowing down and extremely portable ...cost during Black Friday or other sales $649. I bought 2 for camping and around the house projects , runs my air compressors and power washers too.
Yes the EcoFlow Delta 2 is also a good choice and similar comparison: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station?variant=40569176326217&aff=632
I have an outside system that is self build. Indoor I use echoflow solar generators. The outside system are solar panels, victron mppt's and a lifepo4 battery with a heatmat. Inside are portable ecoflow solargenerators that are charged by night from AC and charged by day from solar thru the load port of one of the Victron mppt's when voltage of outside battery is high enough. This system has build in flexibility and backup functionality. From here I can expand at the places where I need to.
I do believe the proper circuit wiring is Solar Charge Controller > Battery > Inverter > Load What reason would you wire the inverter before the battery?
That's correct, the standard method would use a buss bar to connect the 3 components. This setup is simply using the inverter posts in place of the buss bar to reduce complexity and cost. Setting it up this way does have some limitations.
Excellent. I have a 1000, and 1500 watt inverter. I’m using 2 of the LIFEP04 batteries. I’m thinking I need a 2000 watt inverter especially since in an emergency outage I’m looking at running a full size fridge. Everything else I have covered. Full sized fridge and freezer for at least 24 hrs.
A 2000W inverter is a good size for emergency backup, it can run virtually any 120V appliance in your home, and it can run multiple small loads at once.
Breakers trip based on current not voltage. The voltage rating is the highest voltage the breaker is designed to operate under. The current rating is set to protect the wiring and or the device. A 30A breaker will trip somewhat independent of voltage if the load pulls more than 30A for some set period of time.
Hi Dave. Nice comprehensive video. I would have also mentioned an off grid charging option using the charging brick and a small portable generator. I built a power cart (Wen brand utility cart) using three 200 amp Power Queen Plus LiFePo's batteries (7950 WH capacity total) coupled with a 3000 watt pure sine inverter. Each battery having it's own individual ON/OFF switch. However I do not intend on paralleling them.
Cool overview. The battery caught my eye because I purchased the same battery to run my Renogy 3000W portable battery. Works great. I should install a 150A breaker at the battery for safety. Thanks for sharing.
0404’24/0131h 🇺🇸 Thank you, Dave and Mr. Jordan. Lot of effort, thinking and planning was done to prepare such a lengthy test procedure. The running commentary was exemplary, a relentless flow of information and knowledge was put into it, too. That small table and the surroundings were like a Lab. Thank you Junior, for your efforts are well noted and the lecture was flawless. Your physics Professor might be proud of you along with Daddy. Cheers n regards.
I would at least tin the wire with solder for the crimped ends. Best way is to solder the loop terminals on. If you don't do one or the other the connections will loosen with use and heat cycles. Loose connections are a potential loss of efficiency and or melt down. Great ideas for portable power. I'm going to build one for my pontoon boat and back up in emergency situation such as tyrannical power grid sabotage. Alot of punch, for not a bunch!
This was great video. Makes me think investing in Ego products is best fit for me. I’m eyeing that 12 amp hour new push mower for 2023 then just get their Nexus power station.
Great review. I have built many inverter projects and did not know they had such high inrush currents on startup. The thing that I would add to any home built unit is some kind of battery monitor that has a shunt and the ability to show battery charge percentage. I like the Renogy units. Knowing what state of charge you have in the battery is important. Without being able to monitor it is like driving a car without a working gas gauge. It leaves you guessing all the time and it can quit unexpectedly. Volt meters are poor ways to measure LFP battery state of charge.
Nice video! Great details. It’s a labor of love 😎 I built something similar on a Harbor Freight cart. I use it all time vs long extension cords. Comes in handy.
Given the very low internal resistance of LFP batteries, would suggest to your viewers replacing the breaker to the inverter with something that has a much higher AIC rating then the breaker shown. Class-T fuse would be a safe choice. In the event of a short, that breaker will melt itself closed, and a fire risk is highly likely. For all inverter feeds from an LFP battery, we recommend a service disconnect switch, and a Class-T fuse no longer than 7" from the LFP battery.
The BMS on many batteries can go over specifications for a short amount of time, but be aware that many of these actually rely on the temperature relay cutting off discharge when the cells get too warm. A quality BMS will actually regulate the amperage instead of relying on a cheap relay that could very easily fail.
I really like the information and appreciate the work you have put into it. My question: I am normally concerned with emergency communications, and since this is geared toward emergencies, how much radio frequency spectrum noise do the chosen components produce? Good FCC compliant components should not be noisy. Have you tested? Thanks.
Nice video. Your Son's input though short was very helpful, especially about advantage of running higher DC voltage battery banks. Of course that would more expensive sense you would need additional batteries wire in series to get a 24 volt system. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for the very detail oriented video, greatly appreciated!!!! Looking for something for emergency use when power goes down, you gave me many options, thanks again! Looks like a fun project for me and my 13 Yr old son but at a much smaller scale….Lol
I don't really subscribe much anymore as I have overdosed on TH-cam videos lol. This is a great video on a Will Prowse level. That precharge resistor I kinda want to install an Altronix time delay relay to automate the process and add consistency. Especially for mobile builds that would see repetitive setups. I'm looking forward to future videos. Nice work. 👍
Also you raised a child into a competent scientist young man, maybe patterned a littlebit after our host. Tremendous information that you provided. This was a great explanation that made for a great structured conversation amongst us hopeful hobbyists. You settle some important questions and misunderstandings. The pace of information was about perfect for us wanna be campers.
Wow, just wow! Great video. Needed more power at my woodshop and was going to cost thousands to run new cables. Your solution is just what I needed. Will be using your links.
I've had for 8 months. For RV. It can't run air conditioner, a heater will run but for 2 to 3 hours. Have the 400w panels too the most I've gotten is 280. What I like is when panels are hooked up combined with grid/generator it combines them so chargers fast. It's not 30amp it's 20amp RV Hook up. Says right on unit when he claimed 30amps?? It doesn't like being maxed out. Inverter Will shut down if for longer time's maxed out? Won't power my chop Saw? Seems like my inverter isn't at 100% no more? I didn't fill out warranty card? Bought from Amazon so didn't bother... Will test when have time. Over all bit under powered for RV. But work's when in a emergency. Saved my but, when furnace broke. But heaters suck up the battery. But that extra one needs for air-conditioning, heat.. cost Allot More.. so this with the mxr3500 gen. Has me covered. I use gen to charge and solor panels.
One thing I’d like to say is if you built a diy at similar capacity and similar inverter you would likely be about the same costs based on what you posted. I personally like having the diy because I can expand or modify my system where you can’t change the Bluetti at all. But it’s a good compare of easy to find parts vs a prebuilt solar generator even though it’s a little undersized to the diy. Larger. 1200w prebuilt are significantly more money the last time I looked.
It all depends on what you need. Flexibility and expandability, or simple and easy. The cost continually jumps all over the place, but this at lest gives you an idea of where you will land.
Downloaded the video and items list. Because i am a huge fan of Aliexpress i will buy most of it from there ( exept the sinewave.. i am going to buy a local one that i know is very good ) I was waiting for a video with a clear and very good detailed explenation .. and you made one :) Eventualy i will make a small hanger into a big 220v charging rig for drones, and where i can make coffee etc... but im going to start small :) Thanks for the info and wise lessons. *Thumbs up* When my project is finished ( few months ) i will upload a small video with the result and putt the link here.
Awesome info! Another advantage of the self assembled, is that if one aspect off the system stops working, it can be easily replaced or upgraded as you go.Thanks.
You should have far more subscribers, than you do. Keep up the great presentations, & you will. Thanks. You now have 1 more. I built an all-in-one ~1.6Kwh Lithium-ion 12VDC system, incorporating an internal 1000w inverter. A little undersized, but in New Zealand, we don't have the luxury of great product diversity, & it was the only one I could find, that would fit into the toollbox, I used as my backup power supply case. A coupe of issues I experience are: -the Victron 75/15 MPPT solar charge controller, mis-reads the battery voltage, on the device app, so I have to charge at a higher voltage, than the app reads. I use a connected Cellmeter 7 balancer (voltage has been confirmed with a multimeter) to manually check the battery voltage, whilst charging. -my inverter's (Chinese one. Programmable inverters, in NZ, cost an arm, & 2 legs!) display mis-reads the battery voltage by ~0.5VDC. Not ideal. But the seller adjusted the input voltage resistor, so it reads a similar offset voltage. So the inverter does not shut down, with too much usable battery voltage left. The only appliance that does not work, is my water pump, due to the inrush voltage, on the undersized inverter. Not really a biggie, now we aren't having power cuts every other week, like we used to. Am designing 2 portable lithium-ion batteries, that can be easily connected in series/parallel, depending on the immediate needs. May be used as a permanent solution, for my pump?
Thanks for the feedback. A 1000W inverter is good for an entry level backup, but I've found 2,000W is really the minimum if you want to manage any significant appliance. If you use a meter with inrush capability you can identify the threshold you need to achieve in order to run your pump. Also, you can look into some startup capacitors that can reduce the surge load for you. I added one to my heat pump.
Great video. I have never seen a charge controller connected to the invertor. The MPPT will give out up to 14.6 volts which may cause an over voltage error depending on the invertor.
I assume you are concerned for a condition where the battery is disconnected and only the charge controller is connected to the inverter? Yes, I should probably have mentioned it's not meant to be run that way. The setup relies on the battery to balance the load/supply to the inverter. Thanks!
In this setup, having the charge controller connected directly to the inverter should not be a problem as most inverters have a maximum input voltage greater than 15 volts, most I have seen are 15.5 and some up to 16 volts.
Wow - great info. I am in the learning process right now, trying to better understand all of this and your video helped immensely. Couple of questions: If I were to build the heavy duty solar generator with plans to expand over time to have a whole-home backup system: - How "big" could I go with the heavy duty example in the video? I assume there is a limit at some point, right? - What are the limiting factors when expanding (i.e. what components would need to be upgraded as the system grows)? Thanks!
If your goal is to eventually expand to a whole home backup, I would install a 48V system. Here is a starter level version I installed: th-cam.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/w-d-xo.html Here is a way to get 12V on a 48V system: th-cam.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/w-d-xo.html
A couple of misses that will give viewers a more complete picture;;;;;;; As you built (for solar and all items store bought) what is the total cost? Why did you size 1500W rather than 3000W or 5000W? Missing a 110VAC Wattage component list for common appliances (why most home bulbs should to be LED)? ........Listing a vid on sizing Solar panels.
I havent watched full video but just quickly (based on experience) ---> those off the shelf power stations are insanely inefficient ...the inbuilt invertors leak so much power....I had a top end ecoflow but returned it....after many tests and application uses I was getting ~55-60% of the claimed energy (kWh or Ah) .....this was via the 240v inverter..... power usage via the 12V sockets wasnt much better...i returned the product (what a sh*t-fight that was).....building your own unit is a different beast.....you build to out specific needs, you learn so much and gain invaluable knowledge and you can get WAYYY more battery and component value for the same amount of dollars....its not all hate but when I pay $1500 for a product and it deliveres 60% of claimed benefits then that to me is a total fail / rip off.
Signature solar is a great source for solar panels and batteries ($50 off $500 site wide Coupon Code December only "EVERYDAYDAVE" ): signaturesolar.com/?ref=SALE
😢how. Much. to. Ship. To. Jaami aica
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@@volneymcdove3515
You put so…. So…. SO much work into this! Yeah you built an insanely cool solar generator but….. then you also made this high quality video, contacted affiliates for discounts, put every link in the description, gave us great chapters… Thank you for this. You did the community a serious solid with this one.
He reminds me of old school TH-cam. This is why we come to the internet. Thank you Dave, you are a gem. subbed.
Agreed
Funny links don't seem to work, can't link thru your click gate images, try simple hyperlinks.
Your vid is comprehensive, but you overload everything and claim it works, system life is damaged when you operate this way.
I missed if the 1000 watt is modified sine or not, modified sine will kill many devices, best to double check compatibility.
Not a bad advertisement
Great summary Dave for assortment of basic yet capable starter options. I survived hurricane Sandy for 7 days, on a 1500W inverter tethered off the car, with a 10 mo old baby at home. I think the car / inverter setup has BIG advantages over a small generator setup too! I even saved someone with the same inverter that had no power with a sump pump.... You can run minimum energy "quietly" overnight still having essentials running - and don't have cans and cans of gasoline! Would like to hear your opinion of PURE SINEWAVE vs SQUAREWAVE inverters - like what a Sqr Wave wrecks? GREAT CONTENT for those scouts who want to "be prepared", while maybe learning something along the way (with their kids to boot) ! ! ! 👍👍
this is the video i have been looking for. many vids show how to build a solar package but not what it will run. or what you can run but not how to build it. i can finally put all the pieces together in my head. I finally understand what each piece represents so it is no longer an abstract concept. thanks man
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you - someone putting together a practical system ;-)
Charge controllers usually have a heat sink that's designed for vertical operation. Even when testing, you should have the controller vertical for proper convection airflow. If not, you need some serious air movement - probably a minimum of 150-200CFM from a fan that matches the width of the heatsink. If not adequately cooled, good controllers usually have thermal rollback or shutdown when it gets too hot.
Thanks! Yes, you are right, vertical mounting is the best for heat dissipation.
I learned alot , great to see father and son involved in a project . Thanks for sharing 🙂
This has to one of the best DIY 12V off Grid Solar System videos out there to date. In depth explanations and choices of equipment to build what you need. A bonus of tip to boot. Thanks.⚡
Wow, thanks!
I agree
Me too. And the sequence of power up is a bonus. 73@@alexjones2173
Awesome video!!! straight to the point. No bullshit like the others. We need more guys like you!! thank you!!
I dont even have kids, but if i did, i would want my son to be as sharp and knowledgeable as yours appeared to be during the demonstration.
Quite adept. Good job pops!
Wow, your link to diagrams and equipment suppliers and providing your viewers with several easy and affordable options is above and beyond. I like the DIY systems as they can be scaled (depending) and you can service it yourself if needed. I do have all-in-one systems by EcoFlow and Bluetti. I built a 2400w and a 4800w DIY. Love them all.
I subbed and hit the bell.
Nice on the builds
Great job guys. You represent some of the best of TH-cam
Thanks!
This was the best DIY video I've seen. I especially like how it was tested on various tools. I'd love to do a DIY, but for the cost and my needs, I just may go with an already built system. I plan on just using it for camping, and when I do lose power, use this system for a freezer and a refrigerator. This way, I'm not constantly running the gas generator. I really appreciate you putting a well thought out and detailed video.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful!
How come you have wires going from the inverter to the charge controller and batter as opposed to the inverter just being connected to the battery?
This is the place to come for many reasons. Great explanation of various DIY systems vs store bought. Excellent high quality videos. The best I’ve seen!
Thanks for the education. Answered many question. I’m building a system which which consist of a 160 watt solar panel with a Victron 75/15. I haven’t determine what battery to use. Probably a power queen 12 volt 100 or 200 ah. This is for camping use in a van and charging electric bikes. I think a 500 watt inverter would be enough for these purposes. Thanks again for the information.
Ps: We do like all the effort you go through to scientifically test your projects .!!
Great video. I am building one as we speak. 230ah, inverter, shunt. Simple power source with a fuel guage.
Nice!
Great stuff! Thrilled that you covered the inrush current on the inverter. I didn't really consider that when I built my own solar generator. I've got a 600 watt Giandel inverter, and I haven't had an issue with the Daly BMS. I'll dig into the inrush current limits on the Daly BMS to see if I can expand without replacing my BMS. Cheers!
I didn't expect it to be that high either. I knew there would be when the batteries were first connected, but I didn't expect another jump when the unit was turned on.
I know I didn't know anything about in Rush
Your videos are amazing. Thanks for teaching this stuff to people!
You can tap battery banks to get 24 V or even 48 V etc. and if you have 12 V devices you can run special taps off the battery banks to use 12 V. Take a look at golf carts. They have a lot of batteries to have high voltage for the motors, but then they’re tapped at 12 V for the lights.
You have to be careful with that strategy, it causes imbalance in the battery capacities.
Bravo! C'est de loin une des meilleures vidéos explicative que j'ai visionnée sur un système fait maison, avec des explications claires et précises, vous avez un nouvel abonné.
What an excellent job! Research, planning, presentation, all very well executed! I have watched hundreds of very good videos but this was just excellent! Link list is great! Thank you for taking the time and effort! Well done!
Thanks! I appreciate the encouragement!
Wow! Extremely well done and informative video, sir. I have been experimenting with an almost identical setup and I use a resistor when first connecting the inverter to the battery, but I had NO idea that the in-rush of current into the inverter was that high when first powered on!
Glad it was helpful!
I think this system works well with light resistive loads BUT forget inductive loads and he mentions this at the end, but I doubt this setup will meet the critical test of life cycle and longevity. test with frequent cycling at different harmonics.
@dol3980 how did you set up your system differently? Please
Excellent video. Some specific ideas to consider are: pre-charging the capacitors in the inverter prior to, securing the PV cable down so they do not get pulled out or stress the terminals. I use a battery disconnect in addition to breakers.
Do not take my comments as criticism or complaints. Just throwing in some ideas!
I'm not sure why you have the charge controller hooked up to the inverter. If you were to turn off the battery breaker , that would effectively keep the charge controller from charging the battery . Plus that would be the same as having panel input with no place for the output to go, potentially damaging the controller. The charge controller should be hooked up to the battery , that way you still have the option to charge the battery with the battery breaker turned off. If you don't want to charge the battery just turn off the input breaker to the controller.
I like the comparison. Been thinking about this for sometime now. Well done
This is the most detailed, instructive and honest DIY solar generator build video explaining cost, performance and options. Fantastic video Dave, Thanks a lot!😂
Wow, thanks!
Great job!!!thanks
I know right what a great video. Very impressive gosh it's 7 months old haha and I'm just seeing it I really like the heavy duty. I wish I could make them and sell them to people. I don't know if that would be possible. Considering the blue Eddie would be easier and less expensive for them well I might build me a portable.
Agreed
@@VinceBadovinatz88Money wise buying bluetti is better, but if it breaks you’re sol, so making your own system is better long-term, because can be repaired. I might make my own so I can have spare components if/when it breaks.
Great video mate thanks I'm new too all this stuff but want too get a back up for the house together
Very nice video. Thanks for testing the 1000 watt Renogy inverter as i just bought one a few weeks now and so i don't have to test it because you already did so. Greetings from Jamaica.
Thanks!
Don't buy bluetti. Sham address out of Nevada. Phone calls go no where. Research comments on bluetti site it self. Also F rating with the better business bureau. Portable solar panels from this company failed. Good luck trying to get your warranty honored.
Are you for real?
I have 2 Bluetti batts. One had a problem and they replaced it easily. Both work very well for me.
I've had my ac200p and b300 for a few years, running them everyday and no problems. Bluettis a legit company...
I love my AC180 Bluetti.
The comment of someone who broke a solar panel, wanted to warranty it, and is now slandering the company because they didnt realize no one warranties for abusing a panel.
I like this guy. He just goes all out and hooks up the Keurig and says 1700 watts? I'm OG baby. We're doing this
Solid video, but you mistakenly labeled your mc4 connectors. I think we all have done it because they look male, but actually contain the female bullet inside.
This is the best DIY solar setup video online!!!🤠
Glad it was helpful!
On an extreme budget, try the Vtoman 600x. It probably won't run that 1700w espresso, but it should run most things under 1000w if they can function at 600w. A lifesaver during blackouts on the cheap.
Thanks for making common sense out solar hook up and mainly safety you point out so well. Great content and video. Just one request. Can you show how to assemble a 3000 or 5000 watt inverter 12v system please.
A 5000W inverter with 12V would require some very large cables. Why not switch to 48V? You can still get 12V like I show in this video: th-cam.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/w-d-xo.html
@@ProjectsWithDave Because it's what I have and I want to use it. I just want to know what it would take to make a system like it to work? If I need larger cables than the one's it came with, which were I think a set of 4awg. I would get larger or maybe double up my wiring, if that's posssible.
I live in my van most times and have the ultimate lithium battery setup and inverter charger and generator and water storage all in my 98 Ford e250
⚡I like the way you film and explain things....straight to the point......no BS......super helpful....subd! ⚡
Thanks for the sub!
Informative video but commenting to say: Be careful microwaving water. When microwaving it can actually superheat the water without appearing to boil. When this happens water can become hotter than its boiling point without actually boiling, and when disturbed it can rapidly boil, steam, and explode. If you keep doing it put a wooden spoon or something in the water to allow the bubbles to form allowing it to boil.
We had a ice storm back in the 1990s. Back in those days the cable system could work if you put power to it. I make do with a Mercedes battery on a skateboard. 500 watt inverter. I took the battery out to the car to charge it. If it has lasted longer than a week I probably would have hooked up an alternator to A 6 horsepower motor.
Nice video. Very informative. I purchased one of those dso138 oscilloscopes with a higher voltage probe as this oscilloscope I believe has a maximum voltage input of 52v. Can you guys layout in more detail for everyone how to hook it up and test? Thanks. Great job.
You could just have directly connected youre inverter to the battery and not on the load side of the scc
Great info. But, you probably shouldn’t be wearing your ring.
I built a system like this and will make some adjustments to the wiring of the inverter to charge controller. Also was wanting to build a 5k eg4 48v battery with eg4 all in one or growatt 3000 all in one and looks like the price of about $2500. Love the way you add your findings to your systems you build. Your son seems sharp, get him to help more often!
Thanks! I get my kids involved as much as I can. 😀
Fantastic video, you make it look so easy. You are using a 150a breaker from battery to inverter. I am using a 12v - 200ah LifePO4 battery, would that mean I use 200 x 1.25 = would be 250 amp breaker? Thanks!
Thanks! If you use a larger breaker, you have to make sure you also size the conductors to match. However, you don't need to increase the breaker size if your load doesn't require it.
Well done. I assume ur RC circuit is in series and doesn't oscillate with L circuits in the inverter. An R load (like your heat gun) distortion is minimal but one wud like to see the sine wave distortion with an L load like a beer fridge, (although a microwave is close with large I inrush). Also u mention an AGM battery in parallel with LI TYPES (expensive): I am unsure if this is ideal as the 2 batteries have completely different Power and Density characteristics. Overall a better presentation then one get from solar panel manuals. Good tip, always disconnect properly like when boosting a car battery. Great U mentioned the Bluetti cannot cannot handle inductive loads well (that is why I have a diesel generator), and I hope ur system will persevere them (L loads) in the future.
Just to clarify, I do not recommend putting an AGM battery in parallel with a LI battery.
Finally someone showing people how to index stuff. It makes a huge difference on build quality.
great info, and yes, 48V battery + inverter is the best way to go
Thumbs up and subscribed!
Mate, 1000W 110V inverter draws ONLY ~9 amps from the 12V battery. And maybe 1 or 2 amps of losses due to inefficiency. Your maths are way off. Sorry
1,000W/120V=8.3A to the appliance. 1,000W/12V= 83A from the battery. The lower the voltage the higher the current for the same power.
This is an excellent video! Thank you for posting this info. I’m now a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks again!
Thanks and welcome!
Very nice setup 👌 👍Very detailed 👌 👍 measurements of the inrush current is certainly very useful to know 👍
You can use a resistor to pre-charge inverter by keeping it installed with a momentary switch, this is to charge capacitors before switching inverter on without the spike.
Great videos Dave very informative, newbie to your channel and solar, just wondering on solar charger output battery to inverter, instead of solar charger output direct to battery, it is ok to connect it without. damage to solar charger or inverter? Thank you keep videos commin
Sorry, it's not clear what connection you want to make. If you are trying to power the inverter without the battery connected, you can't do that. You need the battery to act as a capacitor as the input and load fluctuate.
I have always liked your videos but I do have a few small recommendations you may want to use for your next build like this. Code requires you have a double pole breaker between the solar panels and charge controller. You have to be able to simultaneously disconnect both the positive and negative connectors at the same time. Typically I use a 63amp Din Rail mini-breaker. The small automotive breakers don't break the connections on both poles and in a short circuit event the current could jump the negative conductor.
Also you need to use fine strand flexible copper wire between the inverter and charge controller. You used what looked like THHN coarse stranded copper which can cause higher resistance and heat and it is not flexible which is harder to work with. Also many charge controller companies recommend against course strand wire. I believe bougeRV recommends against it as well.
I would recommend against stacking connections on the inverter and using bus bars.
You should also use either an ANL fuse or T-Class fuse between the battery and inverter (Bus bars). The breakers you chose are notoriously unreliable in high current systems. Although for such a small system they should be ok.
That being said. I love the videos you do so keep up the great work.
Thanks for the feedback. The Din Rail mini-breakers are a much better choice. I added that note to my parts breakdown on my website: projectswithdave.com/12v-1500w-diy-solar-generator/
Nice setup. Only one glaring flaw. After spending more than 23 years in the inverter repair industry, I would highly recommend spending a little extra money and investing in a low frequency, transformer based inverter instead of that low cost, low surge, high frequency, transformerless inverter. High frequency, transformerless inverters are not designed for powering high inductance loads such as microwave ovens, power tools or refrigerators and can be damaged or have their life considerably shortened when powering inductive loads. The problem is low cost MOSFETs that are used in these inverters that are far more sensitive to the surges that are required by these inductive loads. When powering inductive loads, you'll typically only get a year or less worth of life from a high frequency inverter whereas a low frequency inverter will typically yield 10 years or more before needing service.
Thanks, that's a good reminder. I can tell you my low frequency Victron inverters are way better at powering inductive loads. Here is one setup I installed and tested: th-cam.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/w-d-xo.html
This is what I needed. Much like a desktop computer versus a laptop…. You’re future proof.
Just saw your video, great job and very informative. Personally I would go with the EcoFlow Delta 2. It has a 1800W inverter with a 1000 watt capacity battery. It powered my microwave, full size residential fridge, my 15amp miter saw without slowing down and extremely portable ...cost during Black Friday or other sales $649. I bought 2 for camping and around the house projects , runs my air compressors and power washers too.
Yes the EcoFlow Delta 2 is also a good choice and similar comparison: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station?variant=40569176326217&aff=632
I have an outside system that is self build. Indoor I use echoflow solar generators.
The outside system are solar panels, victron mppt's and a lifepo4 battery with a heatmat.
Inside are portable ecoflow solargenerators that are charged by night from AC and charged by day from solar thru the load port of one of the Victron mppt's when voltage of outside battery is high enough.
This system has build in flexibility and backup functionality. From here I can expand at the places where I need to.
1 minute in this video and I can see this guy means business Lol
I do believe the proper circuit wiring is Solar Charge Controller > Battery > Inverter > Load
What reason would you wire the inverter before the battery?
That's correct, the standard method would use a buss bar to connect the 3 components. This setup is simply using the inverter posts in place of the buss bar to reduce complexity and cost. Setting it up this way does have some limitations.
Excellent. I have a 1000, and 1500 watt inverter. I’m using 2 of the LIFEP04 batteries. I’m thinking I need a 2000 watt inverter especially since in an emergency outage I’m looking at running a full size fridge. Everything else I have covered. Full sized fridge and freezer for at least 24 hrs.
A 2000W inverter is a good size for emergency backup, it can run virtually any 120V appliance in your home, and it can run multiple small loads at once.
I’m a little confused. Your PV circuit breaker is rated for 30A @ 12-48V, but you mentioned your total PV was 80-90V. Why did it not trip?
Great Question
Breakers trip based on current not voltage. The voltage rating is the highest voltage the breaker is designed to operate under. The current rating is set to protect the wiring and or the device. A 30A breaker will trip somewhat independent of voltage if the load pulls more than 30A for some set period of time.
Hi Dave. Nice comprehensive video. I would have also mentioned an off grid charging option using the charging brick and a small portable generator. I built a power cart (Wen brand utility cart) using three 200 amp Power Queen Plus LiFePo's batteries (7950 WH capacity total) coupled with a 3000 watt pure sine inverter. Each battery having it's own individual ON/OFF switch. However I do not intend on paralleling them.
A portable generator and a power brick would work, but probably not very efficient.
Cool overview. The battery caught my eye because I purchased the same battery to run my Renogy 3000W portable battery. Works great. I should install a 150A breaker at the battery for safety. Thanks for sharing.
0404’24/0131h 🇺🇸 Thank you, Dave and Mr. Jordan. Lot of effort, thinking and planning was done to prepare such a lengthy test procedure. The running commentary was exemplary, a relentless flow of information and knowledge was put into it, too. That small table and the surroundings were like a Lab. Thank you Junior, for your efforts are well noted and the lecture was flawless. Your physics Professor might be proud of you along with Daddy. Cheers n regards.
I would at least tin the wire with solder for the crimped ends. Best way is to solder the loop terminals on. If you don't do one or the other the connections will loosen with use and heat cycles. Loose connections are a potential loss of efficiency and or melt down. Great ideas for portable power. I'm going to build one for my pontoon boat and back up in emergency situation such as tyrannical power grid sabotage. Alot of punch, for not a bunch!
This was great video. Makes me think investing in Ego products is best fit for me. I’m eyeing that 12 amp hour new push mower for 2023 then just get their Nexus power station.
Great review. I have built many inverter projects and did not know they had such high inrush currents on startup. The thing that I would add to any home built unit is some kind of battery monitor that has a shunt and the ability to show battery charge percentage. I like the Renogy units. Knowing what state of charge you have in the battery is important. Without being able to monitor it is like driving a car without a working gas gauge. It leaves you guessing all the time and it can quit unexpectedly. Volt meters are poor ways to measure LFP battery state of charge.
Great advice! Thanks!
😂😂😂, Jordan is a genius, I don't know much about this I live in Jamaica W.I the Caribbean and am looking to build one
Jordan likes electricity, he is now working towards his PhD in Electrical Engineering.
EXCELLENT video❤
Thank you!
Impressive video, im excited to get started for an installation like this on my boat
Nice video! Great details. It’s a labor of love 😎
I built something similar on a Harbor Freight cart. I use it all time vs long extension cords. Comes in handy.
Nice! It is actually pretty useful. My power went out just days after I built it and it was kind of fun to just run and grab it to power the fridge.
Given the very low internal resistance of LFP batteries, would suggest to your viewers replacing the breaker to the inverter with something that has a much higher AIC rating then the breaker shown. Class-T fuse would be a safe choice. In the event of a short, that breaker will melt itself closed, and a fire risk is highly likely. For all inverter feeds from an LFP battery, we recommend a service disconnect switch, and a Class-T fuse no longer than 7" from the LFP battery.
Just discovered you, AMAZING!! Thank you so much for sharing ❤
The BMS on many batteries can go over specifications for a short amount of time, but be aware that many of these actually rely on the temperature relay cutting off discharge when the cells get too warm. A quality BMS will actually regulate the amperage instead of relying on a cheap relay that could very easily fail.
I really like the information and appreciate the work you have put into it.
My question: I am normally concerned with emergency communications, and since this is geared toward emergencies, how much radio frequency spectrum noise do the chosen components produce? Good FCC compliant components should not be noisy. Have you tested? Thanks.
I have not checked for radio frequency interference. Can you recommend a method for testing that?
Nice video. Your Son's input though short was very helpful, especially about advantage of running higher DC voltage battery banks. Of course that would more expensive sense you would need additional batteries wire in series to get a 24 volt system. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
EXTREMELY COOL video. A big question in my mind has always been AIO units vs DIY, and this is the first build I've seen someone make a portable DIY!
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful.
Thank you for the very detail oriented video, greatly appreciated!!!! Looking for something for emergency use when power goes down, you gave me many options, thanks again! Looks like a fun project for me and my 13 Yr old son but at a much smaller scale….Lol
Glad it was helpful!
Best video on inverters batteries and solar setup I've seen to date. Just subscribed excellent 👍 👏
Wow , the Best education on setting up solar. Thank You
I don't really subscribe much anymore as I have overdosed on TH-cam videos lol. This is a great video on a Will Prowse level. That precharge resistor I kinda want to install an Altronix time delay relay to automate the process and add consistency. Especially for mobile builds that would see repetitive setups. I'm looking forward to future videos. Nice work. 👍
Thanks!
Also you raised a child into a competent scientist young man, maybe patterned a littlebit after our host. Tremendous information that you provided. This was a great explanation that made for a great structured conversation amongst us hopeful hobbyists. You settle some important questions and misunderstandings. The pace of information was about perfect for us wanna be campers.
thanks Dave, Best seen on this topic yet!
Wow, just wow! Great video. Needed more power at my woodshop and was going to cost thousands to run new cables. Your solution is just what I needed. Will be using your links.
Thanks, glad it helped!
I've had for 8 months. For RV. It can't run air conditioner, a heater will run but for 2 to 3 hours. Have the 400w panels too the most I've gotten is 280. What I like is when panels are hooked up combined with grid/generator it combines them so chargers fast. It's not 30amp it's 20amp RV Hook up. Says right on unit when he claimed 30amps?? It doesn't like being maxed out. Inverter Will shut down if for longer time's maxed out? Won't power my chop Saw? Seems like my inverter isn't at 100% no more? I didn't fill out warranty card? Bought from Amazon so didn't bother... Will test when have time. Over all bit under powered for RV. But work's when in a emergency. Saved my but, when furnace broke. But heaters suck up the battery. But that extra one needs for air-conditioning, heat.. cost Allot More.. so this with the mxr3500 gen. Has me covered. I use gen to charge and solor panels.
If I could be a super hero, I'd be you 😆. Thank you for this awesome video.
That's funny, I'll have to show this comment to my wife. : )
One thing I’d like to say is if you built a diy at similar capacity and similar inverter you would likely be about the same costs based on what you posted. I personally like having the diy because I can expand or modify my system where you can’t change the Bluetti at all. But it’s a good compare of easy to find parts vs a prebuilt solar generator even though it’s a little undersized to the diy. Larger. 1200w prebuilt are significantly more money the last time I looked.
It all depends on what you need. Flexibility and expandability, or simple and easy. The cost continually jumps all over the place, but this at lest gives you an idea of where you will land.
Downloaded the video and items list.
Because i am a huge fan of Aliexpress i will buy most of it from there ( exept the sinewave.. i am going to buy a local one that i know is very good )
I was waiting for a video with a clear and very good detailed explenation .. and you made one :)
Eventualy i will make a small hanger into a big 220v charging rig for drones, and where i can make coffee etc... but im going to start small :)
Thanks for the info and wise lessons. *Thumbs up*
When my project is finished ( few months ) i will upload a small video with the result and putt the link here.
By the time you acquire those tools and materials, just get a BLUETTI. Lol.
Wish they did this in school learning how to pay taxes bills and surviving
Basic electronics is an important skill in our age.
The look of this is best. No box
Awesome info! Another advantage of the self assembled, is that if one aspect off the system stops working, it can be easily replaced or upgraded as you go.Thanks.
Yes, and you can modify as your needs change over time.
Very helpful information.
You should have far more subscribers, than you do. Keep up the great presentations, & you will. Thanks. You now have 1 more.
I built an all-in-one ~1.6Kwh Lithium-ion 12VDC system, incorporating an internal 1000w inverter. A little undersized, but in New Zealand, we don't have the luxury of great product diversity, & it was the only one I could find, that would fit into the toollbox, I used as my backup power supply case.
A coupe of issues I experience are:
-the Victron 75/15 MPPT solar charge controller, mis-reads the battery voltage, on the device app, so I have to charge at a higher voltage, than the app reads. I use a connected Cellmeter 7 balancer (voltage has been confirmed with a multimeter) to manually check the battery voltage, whilst charging.
-my inverter's (Chinese one. Programmable inverters, in NZ, cost an arm, & 2 legs!) display mis-reads the battery voltage by ~0.5VDC. Not ideal. But the seller adjusted the input voltage resistor, so it reads a similar offset voltage. So the inverter does not shut down, with too much usable battery voltage left.
The only appliance that does not work, is my water pump, due to the inrush voltage, on the undersized inverter. Not really a biggie, now we aren't having power cuts every other week, like we used to.
Am designing 2 portable lithium-ion batteries, that can be easily connected in series/parallel, depending on the immediate needs. May be used as a permanent solution, for my pump?
Thanks for the feedback. A 1000W inverter is good for an entry level backup, but I've found 2,000W is really the minimum if you want to manage any significant appliance. If you use a meter with inrush capability you can identify the threshold you need to achieve in order to run your pump. Also, you can look into some startup capacitors that can reduce the surge load for you. I added one to my heat pump.
Great video. I have never seen a charge controller connected to the invertor. The MPPT will give out up to 14.6 volts which may cause an over voltage error depending on the invertor.
I assume you are concerned for a condition where the battery is disconnected and only the charge controller is connected to the inverter? Yes, I should probably have mentioned it's not meant to be run that way. The setup relies on the battery to balance the load/supply to the inverter. Thanks!
In this setup, having the charge controller connected directly to the inverter should not be a problem as most inverters have a maximum input voltage greater than 15 volts, most I have seen are 15.5 and some up to 16 volts.
Wow - great info. I am in the learning process right now, trying to better understand all of this and your video helped immensely.
Couple of questions:
If I were to build the heavy duty solar generator with plans to expand over time to have a whole-home backup system:
- How "big" could I go with the heavy duty example in the video? I assume there is a limit at some point, right?
- What are the limiting factors when expanding (i.e. what components would need to be upgraded as the system grows)?
Thanks!
If your goal is to eventually expand to a whole home backup, I would install a 48V system.
Here is a starter level version I installed: th-cam.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/w-d-xo.html
Here is a way to get 12V on a 48V system: th-cam.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/w-d-xo.html
@@ProjectsWithDave thank you for that comment
A couple of misses that will give viewers a more complete picture;;;;;;; As you built (for solar and all items store bought) what is the total cost? Why did you size 1500W rather than 3000W or 5000W? Missing a 110VAC Wattage component list for common appliances (why most home bulbs should to be LED)? ........Listing a vid on sizing Solar panels.
Great presentation. Keep up the good work.
Much appreciated!
I havent watched full video but just quickly (based on experience) ---> those off the shelf power stations are insanely inefficient ...the inbuilt invertors leak so much power....I had a top end ecoflow but returned it....after many tests and application uses I was getting ~55-60% of the claimed energy (kWh or Ah) .....this was via the 240v inverter..... power usage via the 12V sockets wasnt much better...i returned the product (what a sh*t-fight that was).....building your own unit is a different beast.....you build to out specific needs, you learn so much and gain invaluable knowledge and you can get WAYYY more battery and component value for the same amount of dollars....its not all hate but when I pay $1500 for a product and it deliveres 60% of claimed benefits then that to me is a total fail / rip off.