As an LDP longboarder, I'm excited to see how this works out. We tend to use pretty high angle front trucks (45°-65°) and pretty low angle rear trucks (30°-0°, sometimes negative). This means that pretty much any decent pumping trucks are going to be precision machined in small quantities for hundreds of dollars. As someone whose made that investment only to find things I wish I could change about the geometry, it's exciting to consider the possibility of investing in a resin 3D printer and aluminum casting supplies to attempt to solve this problem for everybody. I'm currently casting some wedges and have been pressing my own boards since I was a teen, so between this and the urethane components, I'm hoping to eventually "do it all". Thanks for being such an inspiration to all of us!
Something I also really should add is be very careful choosing your metal. Magnesium and magnesium/aluminium alloys are really easy to mistaken for aluminium. You can test for it by using acid. If it bubbles violently then it’s magnesium if not then it’s just aluminium. (Magnesium is very flammable and hard to put out)
Vertical cast with as few pieces as possible On a horizontal angle . If you poured that same price strait down and not a horizontal fill in the pits won't have a chance to form.
Having a longer travel (runner system)from sprue to part will eliminate porosity and trash all together depending on how far the travel is. Keep in mind your pour temp might need to be raised in order to fill the part. Also keep in mind the hotter the metal the more it shrinks. If your parts are shrinking just add mass (bigger balls) at the gate will feed the part as it cools. Your mass needs to be bigger than the part. The part must freeze off before the mass in order to draw properly.
Looks like steam related defects to me; your sand looks pretty wet here. It should be dry (permeable) enough to let the molten metal push the air out of the mold cavity through the sand, without really needing a riser for venting on the far side (though you may need risers to counteract shrinkage). It takes time to get a feel for when your green sand is right, but you want to aim for as dry as it can be and still have enough green strength to hold together. Venting the sand itself (not the mold cavity) with a thin rigid wire like a bicycle spoke helps too. These vents should not contact the mold cavity, just come very close to it so that they stay open and continue giving steam generateed inside the hot sand an easier out from the mold than pushing into the surface of the casting as it freezes. If you sharpen your vent wire to a point, your vents won't fill with metal and stop working even if the vent wire does accidentally touch the pattern while you're poming holes in the cope and drag. But first let your sand dry out a bit. If you had a bigger furnace there is more you could do with gating systems to improve your castings as well, but you're off to a really good start here. This is an oldish video so maybe you've already got your sand sorted out. For me foundry is a great hobby in and of itself with endless room to learn and improve, but it's also a great add on to other hobbies or projects like what you're doing here. I'll look for other casting videos you've done.
You certainly seem really eager to get some trucks going. You're using stuff straight out of the packaging, were you waiting by the mailbox for everything to arrive, ram in hand? I've also been watching Brian Oltrogge's videos. Don't tell me, his "Casting Aluminum for the Home from a Simple 3D Print" video came out, and lit a fire under your butt? This project is certainly the first thing I thought of when I saw it. I was going to recommend his channel to you, but then I figured there's no way you could have missed it when doing your research. Very good content. It would be so cool to eventually see a brass or a bronze truck. Even though there's no practical reason for it, it would just be really awesome. One thing I'm worried about with the cast in axles is keeping the bearing surface clean, and especially the threads. And also in achieving a nice flat for the bearing to be tightened down against on the hanger. I wonder if you could have something like a set of nuts or something pre-made on the axle to keep the molten metal away from the threads, and to act as that flat surface so you're not relying on quality of the cast to keep the ends neat. Or, you could just let the quality of the cast be what it is, and neaten it all up afterwards. Threads can easily be re-tapped I remember an old topic on Silverfish where somebody had tracked down a tool that would go over the axle, and you could stick it in a drill and machine a nice flat & parallel shoulder for the bearings to ride against.
I think the solid steel axle would extend far enough into the sand that it wouldn't get aluminum on the threads, but what about covering them in clay or something? Not exactly sure what material explodes and what doesn't in this kind of process. As far as cleaning up the outer edge of where the aluminum meets the axle, maybe he could do a jig for his angle grinder? An idea: - Jig has skate bearings that the axle inserts into - Use a nut to set the depth of how far the axle inserts into the bearings (maybe the nut goes between two bearings and you use one of those thin, stamped sheet metal wrenches to adjust?) - angle grinder is attached to the assembly in a stable way somehow, but on a hinge with a depth stop - rotate trucks slowly on axle as angle grinder cuts for smooth bearing seat. Obviously that's way more involved than machining on the drill press, meant it more as a backup plan in case the hangar was too unbalanced to machine in a lathe-like fashion. You bring up really good points!
I remember that tool, that was the beginning of faced trucks which are so commonplace now. Completely changed the industry. I gotta see how the casts come out, but I'm hoping that I'll just be able to keep the aluminum off the axles. These certainly aren't going to be pro-level but hopefully they will work pretty good!
Just a tip, not being a saftey jerk, but just be careful cutting aluminum with fiber wheels on an angle grinder , the wheel can catch and explode. Ask me how i know this lol.
As you poor the metal tap tap tap the sides of the box with your new tool. Or drill holes at the seam and do a vertical gravity cast with as few pieces
When pouring curbs or copping out off concrete the trick to get rid of porosity is to hit with an orbital sander for few minutes on the outside of the mold. Not sure if it would work for this or not. Might be worth a try. Love it.
Aluminum shrinks alot when casting, you need a pretty big 'feeder' wich supplies extra molten al as its solidifying. Usually at the bottom of the sprew, before the casting cavity, a large-ish extra cavity to allow it extra substance to recudce shrinking. When casting with a steel axel for the trucks, keep in mind the composition and hardness rating of the steel, aluminum isnt hot enough to melt steel, but it could be high enough to soften its hardness. This would make the axel more likely to bend instead of resist under load. You probably already know this from researching it yourself, you seem to be pretty up on it. Looking forward to your next pour !
Thanks for the video man. Excellent result. Tell me, what kind of sand do you use? I made a mixture of sand, clay and water with sugar, but I can’t achieve such a good surface as yours, I’m still experimenting with humidity, but the surface of the mold keeps crumbling, even when I gently blow air from a hand air blower.
Really cool you tried this. Only tips I could offer is keep the molds hot maybe place in front of a heater and elevated off cold floor. For best DIY result really should try investment casting. I understand its a lot more expensive but the results are closest you can get to die-cast.
A joy to watch as always 👍🏻 The pace of your video’s is excellent by the way. The shots and how eveything is edited... A skill uppon itself. Keep going man! Onwards and upwards.
This is a great start! I think your flaws are happening because you need a tapered sprue; your open sprue is letting air in causing porosity. Keep it going though, I subscribed and can’t wait to see more
@@GoodRoads any candle I could find, I 3d printed a design then silicone mold it and then i could pour wax. When i do it again i will make a mold for 8 wax pieces, to make 8 at a time
Very neat. I know in bullet casting with lead, I flux with borax. This draws out any oxide impurities. Kinda nasty and should be well ventilated but the result, at least with lead casting is obvious in the finished product. I do not know how it applies to aluminum casting. Very neat I actually really want to try this. Can the green sand be re-used, or is it done for after the heat gets to it?
There's a thin layer that gets burned out that you have to discard but the rest of it is reusable. If it gets too dry to stick together you can just re-hydrate it with a little water
The best thing about casting metal is that if you completely balls it up, you can just melt the thing and remake it! I bought a furnace that looks identical to yours. I since found out that the crucibals for those really don't last very long and they really don't hold that much molten metal, but at least you can (kind of) use it indoors. I've since upgraded to a Devil Forge 10Kg, set it up and melted some metal but because of winter I've not had chance to use it fully. After watching a steam explosion with just the small forge like yours (it's so weird to watch - the metal kind of wobbles in a strange matrix kind of way and then a few seconds later it creates a big bubble that explodes) and having to use it outdoors, I'm definitely going to wait for better weather ;-)
I'd love to upgrade to Devil forge at some point. Both for the volume of metal you can melt but also for the times. I think they work much faster which would be a boon. Do you know if the graphite ceramic crucibles last longer than the pure graphite ones? I've only done a handful of pours with mine but I'm already noticing pitting on the outer surface that's exposed to the heating elements
@@GoodRoads Yes they are much faster to use, especially with aluminium / alloys. Unlike the one you have, they are easily big enough to melt beer cans in. Definitely go for the 10Kg version of Devil forge. If you get the smaller ones you'd soon regret it. Crucibels for the Devil are pretty robust either way (in comparison). Here is a great & short video on crucible material types = th-cam.com/video/NX7HGow7zXs/w-d-xo.html The Ceramic (Silicon carbide) and graphite mix is talked about at the 3:43 mark (the whole video is only about 6 mins long) = conclusion is they last a bit longer but cost a bit longer.
You need to remove the hydrogen from the metal with sodium carbonate (washing soda) When I cast aluminium I make a small aluminium foil package with the soda in it and using an old stainless steel egg cup on a stick push it to the bottom of the crucible (be very careful not to have any water in it) amd be aware that it will cause the metal to ‘boil’ violently as the hydrogen and other impurities come to the surface. You then need to pour it soon thereafter as it will start to dissolve hydrogen again immediately.
Yo dude, thank you so much for all the great advice. A couple questions: you can also set a sliver of magnesium on fire right? Aluminum wont burn the same way? And about how much sodium carbonate do you need? This is all a huge help, thank you!
@@GoodRoads if it’s a very small sliver of pure magnesium you should be able to set fire to it with a blow torch. I’m not sure how easy it is to set fire to an alloy of magnesium and aluminium, I’ve never tried, and I’m certainly too scared to find out if it will burn once it’s molten. I suppose the thing to remember is that it will behave differently in a flame to the furnace as the flame will provide a co2 barrier around the part which will inhibit it burning while the furnace allows the molten metal to have direct contact with the air
@@GoodRoads as for the sodium carbonate. I use pieces about 1cm cubed. (For about 750ml of aluminium) and I just keep adding them until it stops producing much dross and stops dropping in volume (you will see a significant drop in the level of the aluminium after the gas has escaped) I usually use 2 or three packets to get it to the point where I’m happy. You’ll need to experiment with it starting with very small amount as you don’t want the crucible to bubble over and ruin your nice furnace.
Okay cool, do you know if like white vinegar or some other common household item would be acidic enough to test with? I mean, you can etch steel with it, right?
@@GoodRoads I honestly don’t know. I would think so. But I’ve always used something stronger like hydrochloric acid. I’m sure someone has probably made a video about it.
Hey Chris! I'm sure you made your own research on how to cast trucks. I just wanted to share with you this ineresting video I found a few years ago because it features some interesting devices that you could take some inspiration from; like the way it's made the master for each half of the mold. I figure you can 3D print your own master sheet with built in registration to your flasks to control the parting lines and the precise position of the axles, you could even make them with the sprues built-in (that way you could know exactly where to cut the gate and rise each time. And maybe you can put together a press from an old bottle car jack and a metal frame (similar to an old time book press) to press your petrobond and get better detail when you'll want to put your logo on them. Anyway, here it is: th-cam.com/video/Switx0LFt90/w-d-xo.html
So sick! Thanks so much for sharing dude! I wonder if I could use my electric skateboard press to compact my molds when I get it up and running again. And holy cow they have so much green sand!!!
@@GoodRoads Oh I'm sure you could use an electric skateboard press (I didn't know you had one, but now it all makes sense why you weren't trying to make a more efficient press than the spar-style you've been using). I'm rooting for you on every project but this one sure is a special one! Can't wait to see where it takes you!
Amazing channel, im a 50 year old skater frome the 80s, the kids are so lucky today.🎉
Easily one of my favorite makers. Love that you're casting your own trucks and can't wait to see a completely %100 garage made skateboard.
Thanks for the kind words dude! I also cant wait for my super-diy setup
I have no more words. Your content keeps getting better and better
As an LDP longboarder, I'm excited to see how this works out. We tend to use pretty high angle front trucks (45°-65°) and pretty low angle rear trucks (30°-0°, sometimes negative). This means that pretty much any decent pumping trucks are going to be precision machined in small quantities for hundreds of dollars. As someone whose made that investment only to find things I wish I could change about the geometry, it's exciting to consider the possibility of investing in a resin 3D printer and aluminum casting supplies to attempt to solve this problem for everybody.
I'm currently casting some wedges and have been pressing my own boards since I was a teen, so between this and the urethane components, I'm hoping to eventually "do it all".
Thanks for being such an inspiration to all of us!
I really want to do a zero- or low-degree RKP at some point. I want reverse kingpin mountainboard trucks dangit!
@@GoodRoads I didn't realize there was a need! Now you got me trying to learn more about mountainboard trucks lol
Loved this video!! Maybe pre-heating the mold, and keep moisture as low as possible on surfaces with aluminum contact?
Something I also really should add is be very careful choosing your metal. Magnesium and magnesium/aluminium alloys are really easy to mistaken for aluminium. You can test for it by using acid. If it bubbles violently then it’s magnesium if not then it’s just aluminium. (Magnesium is very flammable and hard to put out)
Vertical cast with as few pieces as possible
On a horizontal angle .
If you poured that same price strait down and not a horizontal fill in the pits won't have a chance to form.
Having a longer travel (runner system)from sprue to part will eliminate porosity and trash all together depending on how far the travel is. Keep in mind your pour temp might need to be raised in order to fill the part. Also keep in mind the hotter the metal the more it shrinks. If your parts are shrinking just add mass (bigger balls) at the gate will feed the part as it cools. Your mass needs to be bigger than the part. The part must freeze off before the mass in order to draw properly.
So sick, that some next level diy gear at home.
Excellent first cast. Looking forward to seeing more from this project.
That's cool. I'm thinking about trying this to make a replacement radiator bracket .
good job!
my son and I are making our own casting sand. Nightmare of a project I should of just bought it. looking forward to casting tomorrow.
I will be very interested to see how the cast in place axles go. I’ve never tried that.
Very cool project 😎
Looks like steam related defects to me; your sand looks pretty wet here. It should be dry (permeable) enough to let the molten metal push the air out of the mold cavity through the sand, without really needing a riser for venting on the far side (though you may need risers to counteract shrinkage). It takes time to get a feel for when your green sand is right, but you want to aim for as dry as it can be and still have enough green strength to hold together. Venting the sand itself (not the mold cavity) with a thin rigid wire like a bicycle spoke helps too. These vents should not contact the mold cavity, just come very close to it so that they stay open and continue giving steam generateed inside the hot sand an easier out from the mold than pushing into the surface of the casting as it freezes. If you sharpen your vent wire to a point, your vents won't fill with metal and stop working even if the vent wire does accidentally touch the pattern while you're poming holes in the cope and drag. But first let your sand dry out a bit. If you had a bigger furnace there is more you could do with gating systems to improve your castings as well, but you're off to a really good start here. This is an oldish video so maybe you've already got your sand sorted out. For me foundry is a great hobby in and of itself with endless room to learn and improve, but it's also a great add on to other hobbies or projects like what you're doing here. I'll look for other casting videos you've done.
Dude this is so dope! I have been wanting to this for awhile but didn’t know where to start, thank you for the guidance!
So damn cool, Chris!!! Awesome video! I’m excited to see the final product! 🤙
You certainly seem really eager to get some trucks going.
You're using stuff straight out of the packaging, were you waiting by the mailbox for everything to arrive, ram in hand?
I've also been watching Brian Oltrogge's videos. Don't tell me, his "Casting Aluminum for the Home from a Simple 3D Print" video came out, and lit a fire under your butt?
This project is certainly the first thing I thought of when I saw it. I was going to recommend his channel to you, but then I figured there's no way you could have missed it when doing your research. Very good content.
It would be so cool to eventually see a brass or a bronze truck. Even though there's no practical reason for it, it would just be really awesome.
One thing I'm worried about with the cast in axles is keeping the bearing surface clean, and especially the threads. And also in achieving a nice flat for the bearing to be tightened down against on the hanger. I wonder if you could have something like a set of nuts or something pre-made on the axle to keep the molten metal away from the threads, and to act as that flat surface so you're not relying on quality of the cast to keep the ends neat.
Or, you could just let the quality of the cast be what it is, and neaten it all up afterwards.
Threads can easily be re-tapped
I remember an old topic on Silverfish where somebody had tracked down a tool that would go over the axle, and you could stick it in a drill and machine a nice flat & parallel shoulder for the bearings to ride against.
I think the solid steel axle would extend far enough into the sand that it wouldn't get aluminum on the threads, but what about covering them in clay or something? Not exactly sure what material explodes and what doesn't in this kind of process.
As far as cleaning up the outer edge of where the aluminum meets the axle, maybe he could do a jig for his angle grinder? An idea:
- Jig has skate bearings that the axle inserts into
- Use a nut to set the depth of how far the axle inserts into the bearings (maybe the nut goes between two bearings and you use one of those thin, stamped sheet metal wrenches to adjust?)
- angle grinder is attached to the assembly in a stable way somehow, but on a hinge with a depth stop
- rotate trucks slowly on axle as angle grinder cuts for smooth bearing seat.
Obviously that's way more involved than machining on the drill press, meant it more as a backup plan in case the hangar was too unbalanced to machine in a lathe-like fashion. You bring up really good points!
I remember that tool, that was the beginning of faced trucks which are so commonplace now. Completely changed the industry. I gotta see how the casts come out, but I'm hoping that I'll just be able to keep the aluminum off the axles. These certainly aren't going to be pro-level but hopefully they will work pretty good!
You need to pack each layer of sand tighter as you layer it up it will give a better more detailed cast
Awesome video. I learned so much from you by your method of bringing us along while you learn. Great job.
Add salt if your really stuck for time. One of the nitrates to help with de-gasing the material while in the mold!
Good work some people do things and others just watch and criticise 😂
Once again, a excellent video.
Cheers from fennoscandia
Add baking soda to the dye. That will help me release the air bubbles in the metal
Just a tip, not being a saftey jerk, but just be careful cutting aluminum with fiber wheels on an angle grinder , the wheel can catch and explode. Ask me how i know this lol.
Thank for the heads up! I'll figure something else out
@@GoodRoads no problem man, gotta look out for our fellow makers. saw your most recent video where you used a bandsaw. looks like you figured it out.
As you poor the metal tap tap tap the sides of the box with your new tool.
Or drill holes at the seam and do a vertical gravity cast with as few pieces
Amazing as always.. wondering the value on more large production.. let say you want to do few truck.. its gonna take some times. Great job!!!!!
well, this is rad!
I’m glad you know about steam explosions. They are not fun when they happen. I know from experience 🤣
Oof. Hopefully no major injuries?
When pouring curbs or copping out off concrete the trick to get rid of porosity is to hit with an orbital sander for few minutes on the outside of the mold. Not sure if it would work for this or not. Might be worth a try. Love it.
Aluminum shrinks alot when casting, you need a pretty big 'feeder' wich supplies extra molten al as its solidifying. Usually at the bottom of the sprew, before the casting cavity, a large-ish extra cavity to allow it extra substance to recudce shrinking. When casting with a steel axel for the trucks, keep in mind the composition and hardness rating of the steel, aluminum isnt hot enough to melt steel, but it could be high enough to soften its hardness. This would make the axel more likely to bend instead of resist under load. You probably already know this from researching it yourself, you seem to be pretty up on it. Looking forward to your next pour !
Thanks for the advice dude!
Thanks for the video man. Excellent result. Tell me, what kind of sand do you use? I made a mixture of sand, clay and water with sugar, but I can’t achieve such a good surface as yours, I’m still experimenting with humidity, but the surface of the mold keeps crumbling, even when I gently blow air from a hand air blower.
Really cool you tried this. Only tips I could offer is keep the molds hot maybe place in front of a heater and elevated off cold floor. For best DIY result really should try investment casting. I understand its a lot more expensive but the results are closest you can get to die-cast.
I think when I try reverse kingpin trucks I'll have to use investment casting for the baseplates
Just awesome dude !!!😍😍😍
It is happening!
Damn, that's so awesome!
A joy to watch as always 👍🏻 The pace of your video’s is excellent by the way. The shots and how eveything is edited... A skill uppon itself. Keep going man! Onwards and upwards.
Thanks dude, I try to keep the edits interesting
Have you thought about making trucks out of those old stators in the old routers?
i luv when u upload
This is a great start! I think your flaws are happening because you need a tapered sprue; your open sprue is letting air in causing porosity. Keep it going though, I subscribed and can’t wait to see more
14:00 watching on X2 speed , hilarious
Ah yes. The classic neglect of risers and gating system of a new founder. I did the same myself.
This is making me soon happy, have you ever make skate wax?
Love your vampire noise 😂😂
No but I want to, I feel like that would be a nice chill project after all this madness
@@GoodRoads I am some the size of hockey puck with my clubs logo on them
Nice! Paraffin and beeswax? Or some other mixture?
@@GoodRoads any candle I could find, I 3d printed a design then silicone mold it and then i could pour wax. When i do it again i will make a mold for 8 wax pieces, to make 8 at a time
Very neat. I know in bullet casting with lead, I flux with borax. This draws out any oxide impurities. Kinda nasty and should be well ventilated but the result, at least with lead casting is obvious in the finished product. I do not know how it applies to aluminum casting. Very neat I actually really want to try this. Can the green sand be re-used, or is it done for after the heat gets to it?
There's a thin layer that gets burned out that you have to discard but the rest of it is reusable. If it gets too dry to stick together you can just re-hydrate it with a little water
I don't know if that made any sense. Vertical pouring fills much faster .
You know what I mean .
and now a truck for surfskate, C7 - waterborne, yow or similar
I gotta try the surfskate thing at some point
@@GoodRoads and a beautiful world, where there is still so much to experience.
Cool 🙌👏👏
I like it
King of random check it
100% his foundry tutorial is great
The best thing about casting metal is that if you completely balls it up, you can just melt the thing and remake it! I bought a furnace that looks identical to yours. I since found out that the crucibals for those really don't last very long and they really don't hold that much molten metal, but at least you can (kind of) use it indoors. I've since upgraded to a Devil Forge 10Kg, set it up and melted some metal but because of winter I've not had chance to use it fully. After watching a steam explosion with just the small forge like yours (it's so weird to watch - the metal kind of wobbles in a strange matrix kind of way and then a few seconds later it creates a big bubble that explodes) and having to use it outdoors, I'm definitely going to wait for better weather ;-)
I'd love to upgrade to Devil forge at some point. Both for the volume of metal you can melt but also for the times. I think they work much faster which would be a boon. Do you know if the graphite ceramic crucibles last longer than the pure graphite ones? I've only done a handful of pours with mine but I'm already noticing pitting on the outer surface that's exposed to the heating elements
@@GoodRoads Yes they are much faster to use, especially with aluminium / alloys. Unlike the one you have, they are easily big enough to melt beer cans in. Definitely go for the 10Kg version of Devil forge. If you get the smaller ones you'd soon regret it. Crucibels for the Devil are pretty robust either way (in comparison). Here is a great & short video on crucible material types = th-cam.com/video/NX7HGow7zXs/w-d-xo.html
The Ceramic (Silicon carbide) and graphite mix is talked about at the 3:43 mark (the whole video is only about 6 mins long) = conclusion is they last a bit longer but cost a bit longer.
You need to remove the hydrogen from the metal with sodium carbonate (washing soda)
When I cast aluminium I make a small aluminium foil package with the soda in it and using an old stainless steel egg cup on a stick push it to the bottom of the crucible (be very careful not to have any water in it) amd be aware that it will cause the metal to ‘boil’ violently as the hydrogen and other impurities come to the surface. You then need to pour it soon thereafter as it will start to dissolve hydrogen again immediately.
Yo dude, thank you so much for all the great advice. A couple questions: you can also set a sliver of magnesium on fire right? Aluminum wont burn the same way? And about how much sodium carbonate do you need? This is all a huge help, thank you!
@@GoodRoads if it’s a very small sliver of pure magnesium you should be able to set fire to it with a blow torch. I’m not sure how easy it is to set fire to an alloy of magnesium and aluminium, I’ve never tried, and I’m certainly too scared to find out if it will burn once it’s molten.
I suppose the thing to remember is that it will behave differently in a flame to the furnace as the flame will provide a co2 barrier around the part which will inhibit it burning while the furnace allows the molten metal to have direct contact with the air
@@GoodRoads as for the sodium carbonate. I use pieces about 1cm cubed. (For about 750ml of aluminium) and I just keep adding them until it stops producing much dross and stops dropping in volume (you will see a significant drop in the level of the aluminium after the gas has escaped) I usually use 2 or three packets to get it to the point where I’m happy. You’ll need to experiment with it starting with very small amount as you don’t want the crucible to bubble over and ruin your nice furnace.
Okay cool, do you know if like white vinegar or some other common household item would be acidic enough to test with? I mean, you can etch steel with it, right?
@@GoodRoads I honestly don’t know. I would think so. But I’ve always used something stronger like hydrochloric acid. I’m sure someone has probably made a video about it.
👍
Apparently low sodium salt will act as a flux, but I haven't tried it yet = th-cam.com/video/p0S-cwzK2GI/w-d-xo.html
Hey Chris! I'm sure you made your own research on how to cast trucks. I just wanted to share with you this ineresting video I found a few years ago because it features some interesting devices that you could take some inspiration from; like the way it's made the master for each half of the mold. I figure you can 3D print your own master sheet with built in registration to your flasks to control the parting lines and the precise position of the axles, you could even make them with the sprues built-in (that way you could know exactly where to cut the gate and rise each time. And maybe you can put together a press from an old bottle car jack and a metal frame (similar to an old time book press) to press your petrobond and get better detail when you'll want to put your logo on them. Anyway, here it is: th-cam.com/video/Switx0LFt90/w-d-xo.html
So sick! Thanks so much for sharing dude! I wonder if I could use my electric skateboard press to compact my molds when I get it up and running again. And holy cow they have so much green sand!!!
@@GoodRoads Oh I'm sure you could use an electric skateboard press (I didn't know you had one, but now it all makes sense why you weren't trying to make a more efficient press than the spar-style you've been using).
I'm rooting for you on every project but this one sure is a special one! Can't wait to see where it takes you!
That's incredible.
Is tracker still making trucks in the US?
It would be so cool to be able to see that in person.
@@LongboardTechnology It would be cool, I agree, but I don't know I don't even live in the US.
2:25 ... a coat of ???