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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- A walk through on how to change the oil in an open chamber 43mm Kayaba fork on the Kawasaki KLX250S. The principle should apply to any KYB Open Chamber Upside Down (USD) forks. Watch the video and read the thread on the Kawasaki Forums:
www.kawasakifor...
this is the best video I have seen to change fork oil I did my bike ( kx 80 ) last night took me about 1 hour never done it b4 thank you mate 😊
Hey Arctra, never knew you were a South African-Australian :)
Read a lot of your post on DBW :) Going to change my Uncles' fork oil soon.
Good job thank you.
great video! Thank you.
Thank you for the video. Great help
Nicely done, thanks!
Great video !!!! thanks
thanks
How much oil in that suspension?????
Thanks for the vid mate, I have got a 2012 klx 250s and want to get stiffer springs. have you got an idea of spring rate for 95kg rider? What weight fork oil did you use? many thanks
+Maxi77 I'd be going for 0.50kg/mm fork springs at your weight. With the stock valving I'd use the Belray 5W fork oil, but with Racetech Gold Valves I use Motorex 5W which has a higher viscosity (even though it is the same SAE rating as the Belray). The Racetech gold valve are the single best investment you can make for this bike... the stock valving is pathetic and very prone to compression spikes.
+Arctra Many thanks! could you please tell me who supplied the fork springs? Cheers
+Maxi77 I got mine from a company called Shock Treatment in Sydney (Australia) that are a Racetech supplier. Take a look at the Racetech page racetech.com/ProductSearch/1/Kawasaki/KLX250S/2012
+Arctra , Thanks, they rebuilt my rear shock, can't complain about the results but the customer service leaves something to be desired. Unfortunately they seem to be some what slack in getting the front springs for me. I will have to ring them again. Regards Max
What is your measurement on your marking?
somebody needs to re-engineer this system. I seems like it was designed to be much more complicated than it needs to be for a periodic maintenance requirement. What a PITA
How many fork oil did you put on it.
Service manual talk's about 450ml on change. But don't take that for granted, just do the procedure of filling it up and getting rid of any air bubble (pumping and filling depend's on when you feel like its strong enough to the point it doesn't get anymore and you dont need to fill no more fork oil so it's leveled with the top spring guide) and also let the fork rest vertically about 5-6min (put somehing over the top so it doesn't get any non-wanted particle going in). At the end do the method of removing 101mm or 10,1cm of fork oil from the top with the outer tube compresed, you can do +/-2mm and then close it. For torque specs it is said by manual going 15nm (11ft-lb) for the piston rod nut (the small 17mm one) and for the big cap a.k.a front fork top plug 30nm (22ft-lb) that should be it.
What fork oil do i use?
I use Motorex 5W Racing Fork Oil (the new stuff that has their "3D Response Technology" as it is very slippery and results in less stiction). It is the best value for money at a high performance point that I have come across.
how much oil you fild in fork?
+Viesturs Liepa I'm not sure of the exact volume because with these forks but it's not really relevant anyway coz you need to fill them, bleed them, and then suck out the excess to set your oil height (as I do in the video)
How will i know that it was the right level for it? What is your indicator use inside the fork?
I could hear what your depth was for your oil measurement device ….did you say 100 millimeters?
Yes, I set mine at 100mm. I think between 100mm and 110mm is a common oil height in open cartridge forks like these.