I saw the dyno from best dual sport bikes and thought why not give it a try. I took the fuel tank off and it made it way easier to get out. I used a small 1/4 inch ratchet with a Phillips bit. Lots of inward pressure and I was able to get it out luckily. It did smooth out the throttle in the upper rpm range where that weird power dip is stock. I felt like the lower rpm smoothness and low speed power was affected negatively. I didnt not feel a noticeable midrange power boost. After doing some more research on secondary throttle plates I painfully put the plate back in. I can not recommend removing it. Maybe one day they will come out with an ECU upgrade that will give noticeable power increases. Changing my gearing to 13/42 was very noticeable, i do recommend that. If I didnt ride so much street if go bigger on the rear.
I have kdx snorkle, delkevic exhaust and 13/42 gearing. I live at about 5000ft elevation so that could play a part too. My bike over all ran better before I took the 2ndary throttle plate out. Especially at low to mid throttle. Changing the gearing made a wayyy bigger difference in my opinion. Love this bike, its good for putting around and adventuring but Im selling and going to a honda 450rl soon. I need a bigger faster bike with better suspension. 😪
@billingsfmx I’m not familiar with the 450rl? I thought about the 450L when it came out a few years ago but the service requirements really steered me away plus the price tag seemed way too high. I’d probably go a different route if I was going to spend north of 10k on a play bike. The KLX300 suits my needs perfectly and I really enjoy it so I think I’ll stay with it long term. The next bike I buy will probably be another touring bike since my Triumph is getting up there in age. I love it but the Honda Africa Twin is supposedly going to receive an update soon. I might be tempted to get one if it’s significant enough.
@@billingsfmx I think this throttle plate is what makes the efi system so smooth, especially low rpm and coming off decel. My favorite part of the efi 250/300 is how it can tractor so smoothly offroad.
I yanked mine out. Feels good mate. You can sometimes hear the bracket shake once the plate is gone. Anyone attempting this be careful, the Philips head holding it down is very easy to strip.
You should have used the JIS screwdriver that came with the kit. That's what I seen people use and successfully got it off with zero issues. You just use that and some pliers to turn it
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures I totally understand that. I’m busier than a double peckered Billy goat these days. I have the KTM 890 and a Husky 501 these days to scratch the ADV/DS itch. I rode the Kove 450 Rally in early June… that bike could almost replace both of these bikes. I’ll pay some bills when I sell the KLR. This has less than 100 miles on it.
thanks for the vid bro.I'll probably attempt this some time in the near future. looking forward to your next vid regarding your opinion on weather or not it's worth the effort.
I never do any modifications until at least 1000 miles well after break in, i got one those flexible drill attachments that are flexible would easily unscrewed that
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures Thanks for link to the video. I am having issue locating a skid plate duh. So was it really worth the time to remove the secondary throttle body, would you do it again? I gotta give your wife credit. And it was funny. And her hair got dirty on the concrete. Good job.
1/4 ratchet, couple extensions, swivel, and a phillips bit for 1/4. Out in 10 min or less. Also, those metal shavings wont hurt your fuel system at all.. mainly the cylinder, so good luck!
10 mins or less huh? That’s pretty good. I spent at least 10 minutes just pushing the butterfly closed because it flipped open every time I put pressure on a bit! I’m not worried about the shavings.
That was the most frustrating part, pushing hard but balanced enough to not flip it. Congrats on the leap of faith. I know you weren't really keen on the idea for a while.
I started to do mine and stripped the screw head, so I gave up and told myself probably not worth it. I’m waiting to hear what your thoughts are on it once you get the test drive in because I’ll go back in and drill it out if it’s good and everything works right.
I only just saw this & the only reason I see it even being there is an air restriction to make the emissions pass? But opening up any stuff like that offers the engine extra air for combustion & that can't be a bad thing. But also you might do the air box and then if you don't add an aftermarket exhaust, consider several cuts into the stock muffler under the heat plate. Open up extra air & you need to allow more to go out the exhaust or that's what I've seen done on the KLX. peace
The little screw in the throttle requires the correct tip size & angle as you found out. I only know as I just watched a guy do it as he explained what happens to a fair number of these attempts. Good job " GiT-R-Done "
I am saving for a bike but this is one on my list.... you caught my eye & I don't think I'm here accidentally? See, I've not actually fallen down any rabbit holes yet & when I get going I don't intent to b/c of channels just like This . Thanks for sharing
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures its really annoying it still have the same power gain but ya i have the check engine light can i do something for removing it instead of putting back the plate with the screw 😣
@@chugginwheelie300 I’d be kinda surprised if the plate being removed is causing the CEL. I’d rather think you unplugged something or started the bike with something unplugged which triggered the light. You can disconnect the battery to reset the light. Disconnect the cables before bed one night and hook up in the morning. The light should be reset. If there is something triggering the CEL, it’ll come back on when you start or ride the bike. If you induced the light by leaving something unplugged, it’ll come back on too. But if it was triggered by something else, like you started the engine with something unplugged but later plugged that connection back together, the CEL should not reactivate.
If that screw was sandwiched in between the head and the peen then what's holding it in now that you ground away the head? I'd be pulling the throttle body and drilling that out before you loose it into the cylinder.
Not sure I want to Like this video thereby promoting this type of messing around with your bike lol, but I did like the video and looking forward to hearing the results!
I totally understand! I've been hearing about this mod for a couple of years and it's picked up steam lately in the FB groups and online. I have been resistant to this particular modification but I finally gave in. My point is, there is no promotion by liking it. The cat was out of the bag quite a long time ago! Thanks for the like though!
Jeff, not to ruin the results of my test ride video coming soon, I’ll say this: there isn’t a “power gain” per se by doing this mod. The simplest way I can explain it is the power comes on sooner than with the plate installed. It’s most noticeable to me when riding off road in 2-3 gear and in the 3-5000 rpm range. The throttle response is more linear and steady as opposed to kind of having a dip or lag under acceleration in the lower torque band. If someone is expecting a big gain, like one that pops the wheel up by just blipping the throttle, he will be disappointed. At least that’s what I found.
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures Good to know. Your explanation seams to match the dyno results I’ve seen. No increase in top end power, but some more power from idle to about 6k RPMs. I’m going to do the mine for sure since I’ll be pulling the tank anyways to install the EJK and KDX snorkel next weekend , might as well. I’m also going to re gear it. I’m going to do it all at once so I can feed the difference. I already have the Delkovic pipe on it.
I did this about 2 months ago, pretty much had to do the same thing, except I stuffed a papertowel in the throttle body and wedged a mechanics magnet in there before I started chewing up the metal. You have one more step after this. You should disable the ECU cable and spring that operates that butterfly. Not totally necessary, just the final step.
I’ll take a look at that but I might just leave it alone. If the ECU feels a little better about itself thinking it’s choking my engine of some air, while I know it’s doing nothing, it might be a win win situation! Side note, I spent some time studying the Kawasaki service manual and it seems with some creative wiring, a guy might be able to trick the ECU into leaving the butterfly open. In fact, if the check engine light didn’t bother a fella, just unplugging the secondary throttle sensor causes the ECU to default to opening the secondary throttle plate, albeit with a CEL activation.
@@chugginwheelie300 I honestly can’t remember what the book says about the secondary throttle sensor exactly. Is tps an acronym for Throttle Position Sensor? You keep saying it but I want to be sure. Anyway, I’d have to go back and look at my manual to see if there are 2 different sensors: a throttle position sensor and a secondary throttle sensor. If there are 2 different sensors then you and me might not be talking about the same thing. The secondary throttle sensor controlled the butterfly I removed. I think it opens the butterfly more or less depending on throttle, but that’s just off memory. Plus the CA model might be different entirely. I really need to look at my service manual.
First ride video coming soon!
I saw the dyno from best dual sport bikes and thought why not give it a try. I took the fuel tank off and it made it way easier to get out. I used a small 1/4 inch ratchet with a Phillips bit. Lots of inward pressure and I was able to get it out luckily. It did smooth out the throttle in the upper rpm range where that weird power dip is stock. I felt like the lower rpm smoothness and low speed power was affected negatively. I didnt not feel a noticeable midrange power boost. After doing some more research on secondary throttle plates I painfully put the plate back in. I can not recommend removing it. Maybe one day they will come out with an ECU upgrade that will give noticeable power increases. Changing my gearing to 13/42 was very noticeable, i do recommend that. If I didnt ride so much street if go bigger on the rear.
Was the rest of your bike still stock? Exhaust and/or snorkle?
@billbob9304 no.
I have kdx snorkle, delkevic exhaust and 13/42 gearing. I live at about 5000ft elevation so that could play a part too. My bike over all ran better before I took the 2ndary throttle plate out. Especially at low to mid throttle. Changing the gearing made a wayyy bigger difference in my opinion. Love this bike, its good for putting around and adventuring but Im selling and going to a honda 450rl soon. I need a bigger faster bike with better suspension. 😪
@billingsfmx I’m not familiar with the 450rl? I thought about the 450L when it came out a few years ago but the service requirements really steered me away plus the price tag seemed way too high. I’d probably go a different route if I was going to spend north of 10k on a play bike. The KLX300 suits my needs perfectly and I really enjoy it so I think I’ll stay with it long term. The next bike I buy will probably be another touring bike since my Triumph is getting up there in age. I love it but the Honda Africa Twin is supposedly going to receive an update soon. I might be tempted to get one if it’s significant enough.
@@billingsfmx I think this throttle plate is what makes the efi system so smooth, especially low rpm and coming off decel. My favorite part of the efi 250/300 is how it can tractor so smoothly offroad.
I yanked mine out. Feels good mate. You can sometimes hear the bracket shake once the plate is gone. Anyone attempting this be careful, the Philips head holding it down is very easy to strip.
Did all the usual mods , finally did this . The best thing I've done. Mine is a 2020klx250.
Hopefully you see my question. Did you truly notice a difference? What exactly did you feel? I have a 2018 lmk!
Did this to my bike, also did exhaust and intake, O2 sensor bypass, PAIR valve bypass and EJK controller. Completely different bike.
I would hope so that ain't cheap to do
By doing does modifications what`s the highway speed? I prefer off road, but to get there I must travel like 200km
You can also elevate the front end of bike to keep the shavings moving in the right direction.
Yeah that would probably help a little!
You should have used the JIS screwdriver that came with the kit. That's what I seen people use and successfully got it off with zero issues. You just use that and some pliers to turn it
Good to see ya buddy!
Hey, I still have the carb off my 2018 KLR.
I really need to get back to that sometime so I can sell it.
Take care!
Yeah I’ve been scarce lately, haven’t I? You gonna get something else after you sell the KLR?
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures I totally understand that. I’m busier than a double peckered Billy goat these days.
I have the KTM 890 and a Husky 501 these days to scratch the ADV/DS itch.
I rode the Kove 450 Rally in early June… that bike could almost replace both of these bikes.
I’ll pay some bills when I sell the KLR. This has less than 100 miles on it.
The key for me is usually finding the right tool . I removed the screw using a #1 JIS screw driver with no problems .
That usually helps. I only have full size drivers and I did the removal with the throttle body still in the bike so room was limited.
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures You can do it with a damn near full size screw driver. Just put part of the handle in the air box.
thanks for the vid bro.I'll probably attempt this some time in the near future. looking forward to your next vid regarding your opinion on weather or not it's worth the effort.
I never do any modifications until at least 1000 miles well after break in, i got one those flexible drill attachments that are flexible would easily unscrewed that
You may want to open the throttle plate and stuff a rag behind it before you start. Especially if you don't know what you are doing.
I have watched several videos, informative stuff.
Anyhow, my question is, do you have a skid plate on that bike and what brand?
Thanks ;
Tony.
As a matter of fact I do, and I have a video about it!
th-cam.com/video/lALhsgEYm6g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oRHQjZLXSNoT4h0R
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures Thanks for link to the video. I am having issue locating a skid plate duh. So was it really worth the time to remove the secondary throttle body, would you do it again?
I gotta give your wife credit. And it was funny. And her hair got dirty on the concrete. Good job.
1/4 ratchet, couple extensions, swivel, and a phillips bit for 1/4. Out in 10 min or less.
Also, those metal shavings wont hurt your fuel system at all.. mainly the cylinder, so good luck!
10 mins or less huh? That’s pretty good. I spent at least 10 minutes just pushing the butterfly closed because it flipped open every time I put pressure on a bit! I’m not worried about the shavings.
That was the most frustrating part, pushing hard but balanced enough to not flip it. Congrats on the leap of faith. I know you weren't really keen on the idea for a while.
I started to do mine and stripped the screw head, so I gave up and told myself probably not worth it. I’m waiting to hear what your thoughts are on it once you get the test drive in because I’ll go back in and drill it out if it’s good and everything works right.
That video is uploading right now!
I stripped mine too and used pliers to bend and twist the plate, after an hour or so it came out clean.
I only just saw this & the only reason I see it even being there is an air restriction to make the emissions pass? But opening up
any stuff like that offers the engine extra air for combustion & that can't be a bad thing. But also you might do the air box and
then if you don't add an aftermarket exhaust, consider several cuts into the stock muffler under the heat plate. Open up extra
air & you need to allow more to go out the exhaust or that's what I've seen done on the KLX. peace
The little screw in the throttle requires the correct tip size & angle as you found out. I only know as I just watched a guy
do it as he explained what happens to a fair number of these attempts. Good job " GiT-R-Done "
Yeah I’ve fallen down that rabbit hole more than once. This bike has an exhaust, free flow filter, and fuel controller.
I am saving for a bike but this is one on my list.... you caught my eye & I don't think I'm here accidentally?
See, I've not actually fallen down any rabbit holes yet & when I get going I don't intent to b/c of channels
just like This . Thanks for sharing
@@diggy-d8w I don’t necessarily mind rabbit holes. They just tend to get expensive!
I'm rather amazed at the CO$Ts associated w/ a lot of these plastics & other parts...... You are a man that knows !
how to get rid of the error code like why there is no conversation about it mine is a CA model i have a check engine light that dont want to leave
I’m sure it’s something to do with the CA model. I never got a code on my bike. Sorry.
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures its really annoying it still have the same power gain but ya i have the check engine light can i do something for removing it instead of putting back the plate with the screw 😣
@@chugginwheelie300 I’d be kinda surprised if the plate being removed is causing the CEL. I’d rather think you unplugged something or started the bike with something unplugged which triggered the light. You can disconnect the battery to reset the light. Disconnect the cables before bed one night and hook up in the morning. The light should be reset. If there is something triggering the CEL, it’ll come back on when you start or ride the bike. If you induced the light by leaving something unplugged, it’ll come back on too. But if it was triggered by something else, like you started the engine with something unplugged but later plugged that connection back together, the CEL should not reactivate.
@@chugginwheelie300 sweet!!! I’m glad it was nothing major.
@@chugginwheelie300 hopefully you’re getting close!
What can I do if I stripped it .
If that screw was sandwiched in between the head and the peen then what's holding it in now that you ground away the head? I'd be pulling the throttle body and drilling that out before you loose it into the cylinder.
I left it. It's easier to explain the need for a new bike if the engine in your current bike blows up.
Where can I find trail's in central Florida
Where specifically? Most of the wildlife management areas are okay to ride as long as your bike is street legal.
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures thanks 👍
I’m ready for the update video!!! Lol
Well, I'm in the middle of cutting the video up right now!!! Look for it tomorrow, if not late tonight.
Not sure I want to Like this video thereby promoting this type of messing around with your bike lol, but I did like the video and looking forward to hearing the results!
I totally understand! I've been hearing about this mod for a couple of years and it's picked up steam lately in the FB groups and online. I have been resistant to this particular modification but I finally gave in. My point is, there is no promotion by liking it. The cat was out of the bag quite a long time ago! Thanks for the like though!
You don’t modify your bikes for more power?
@@jeffg3895 If I have to explain myself then it's not worth the time to do it.
Jeff, not to ruin the results of my test ride video coming soon, I’ll say this: there isn’t a “power gain” per se by doing this mod. The simplest way I can explain it is the power comes on sooner than with the plate installed. It’s most noticeable to me when riding off road in 2-3 gear and in the 3-5000 rpm range. The throttle response is more linear and steady as opposed to kind of having a dip or lag under acceleration in the lower torque band. If someone is expecting a big gain, like one that pops the wheel up by just blipping the throttle, he will be disappointed. At least that’s what I found.
@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures Good to know. Your explanation seams to match the dyno results I’ve seen. No increase in top end power, but some more power from idle to about 6k RPMs. I’m going to do the mine for sure since I’ll be pulling the tank anyways to install the EJK and KDX snorkel next weekend , might as well. I’m also going to re gear it. I’m going to do it all at once so I can feed the difference. I already have the Delkovic pipe on it.
I did this about 2 months ago, pretty much had to do the same thing, except I stuffed a papertowel in the throttle body and wedged a mechanics magnet in there before I started chewing up the metal. You have one more step after this. You should disable the ECU cable and spring that operates that butterfly. Not totally necessary, just the final step.
I’ll take a look at that but I might just leave it alone. If the ECU feels a little better about itself thinking it’s choking my engine of some air, while I know it’s doing nothing, it might be a win win situation! Side note, I spent some time studying the Kawasaki service manual and it seems with some creative wiring, a guy might be able to trick the ECU into leaving the butterfly open. In fact, if the check engine light didn’t bother a fella, just unplugging the secondary throttle sensor causes the ECU to default to opening the secondary throttle plate, albeit with a CEL activation.
@@chugginwheelie300 I honestly can’t remember what the book says about the secondary throttle sensor exactly. Is tps an acronym for Throttle Position Sensor? You keep saying it but I want to be sure. Anyway, I’d have to go back and look at my manual to see if there are 2 different sensors: a throttle position sensor and a secondary throttle sensor. If there are 2 different sensors then you and me might not be talking about the same thing. The secondary throttle sensor controlled the butterfly I removed. I think it opens the butterfly more or less depending on throttle, but that’s just off memory. Plus the CA model might be different entirely. I really need to look at my service manual.
If you want you can send a video to my email address. It’s listed somewhere here on my page. I can’t promise I can help but I’ll try anyway.