Good video, I live in a small town in South West VA. its sometime called the heart of Appalachia, so I really liked the part of the video when you talked about, using a pocket knife to crave a gun stock, even when I was a kid ( 70's & 80's ) the older men still used a 2 or 3 blade pocket knives to do everything, I think it goes to show that a high dollar fixed blades aren't the end all be all in knives. Thanks
I gave up on finding a compromise knife. I like big knives. I just do. I've never found a 5" knife that worked for me. That being said, doing fine carving, or trying to do fine carving, with a large knife is an exercise in frustration & fatigue. The solution for me was simply carrying more than one knife. I have my large belt knife and my smaller neck knife. My belt knife is my large 'survival' knife for building shelters, processing firewood, etc..., and my smaller neck knife is my carving knife. My most carried combination has been a Ka-Bar BK7 and a Mora Companion, either the MG or the HD. This has been a pretty effective combination, but I'm really thinking about trading in the Companion for more of a dedicated carving knife. If you're carrying a 7" Ka-Bar (or similar) on your hip what do you need with the capabilities of a Mora Companion HD? I think the answer is that you don't. Now I'm just trying to decide whether to get the Mora Basic Wood Carving Knife with the black plastic handle or the Wood Carving Junior 73/164 Knife with the wooden handle, which is pretty much the same as the Classic 2/0, but with a metal finger guard (which I like). I like the wood handle better, but the plastic handle is probably the better knife. Decisions, decisions....
Unrelated somewhat, but I like bigger knives to be full flat grind. I believe that allows them to get in tighter to the work and I don't see it impacting their ability to do their big blade tasks. Of course, a saber or scandi big blade will split wood better, but that would be taking the talk into One Tool Option territory. I'll be looking for a good companion to the BHK Scout that's my mainstay now for skinning. I do have a BHK Drover which is a sub-3" knife, but I'd actually like something with a thinner blade and longer handle myself to give myself more grasping options ergonomically when doing work for a long time. I learned my lesson after carving a spoon with an ESEE-6. I got it done, but it would've been infinitely easier to do it with the Mora I had on the bench right next to me the whole time. And agreed on William Collins' knives. They are truly the work of a craftsman. I'm looking forward to owning one soon.
Wait, where are the 12in kitchen knives? Or the electric carving knife? What? You meant wood carving? Oh, belay my last. That's what I get for watching this around lunch time. Semper Fi
Why not a Flexcut or Hock? A single carving knife is only around $20 on Amazon. Perhaps they are of a questionable-quality steel? Regardless, I've found a Wharncliffe or sheepsfoot blade to be the very best for detailed carving. Why carry two knives of the same profile? The normal or drop-point belt/bushcraft knife is good for rough-in work and holes, but nothing beats the point of a Wharncliffe or sheepsfoot blade for detailed carving. I would also recommend a tanto (i.e., chisel-point) blade for detailed carving. That chisel point is SO handy when carving things like lettering. I think that becoming proficient with MANY blade types, understanding their strengths and weaknesses, perfectly fits with your general bushcraft philosophy.
when you say a carving knife, is these meant to be used in like a survival/primitive scenario for making a tender bundle etc. or can the also be use for wood carving such as wood sculpting and other such projects?
Dave, as far as a jack knife goes, how do you feel about an opinel for carving? Just wondering because thats what I like to use and was curious as to your opinion.
Dave, you are well aware of how strong the Mora Bushcraft Black is. You and I both know this knife can fine carve and baton hardwood, I have worked Osage Orange, Hickory, White, red and Burr Oaks without any damage what so ever!
I have mora carving knife, that with wider and longer handle i gave like 5 bucks for it ... its great. This and spoon knife and you are ready for small carving projects, its cheap and fun.
What's your choice of knife to start a 7 year old kid handling? I'm working with my son on knife handling but he needs a knife that fits his small hands better than any I have. Fixed blade
I believe the pocketknife is still far superior to any of those fixed blade knives, and just about every old timer I know still uses pocket knife for fine carving. A pocketknife such as a stockman or a Congress can simply do things no four inch blade can do as easily. I love fixed blade carving knives, but no carving knife set is complete without a pocketknife. This is where really fine carving starts, and ends, unless you carry a full set of fixed blade carvers. A have a friend, one more experienced in living in the wild than anyone I know, who convinced me to make a Mora permanent sheath knife. I've found he wads right in doin so. Like many, I have no need for a separate hunting knife, or camping knife. I can skin a moose with a Mora, set up any kind of camp with a Mora, and I never have and never will put myself in a position where I need to baton with a knife, But even as good as the Mora is, it's not as good for many carving tasks as a good, sharp pocketknife with at least three blades. Our ancestors knew exactly what they were doing when they made the pocketknife the primary fine carving knife. I don't think there is a good reason to go into the woods without a multi-bladed pocketknife that you know how to use.
Good video, I live in a small town in South West VA. its sometime called the heart of Appalachia, so I really liked the part of the video when you talked about, using a pocket knife to crave a gun stock, even when I was a kid ( 70's & 80's ) the older men still used a 2 or 3 blade pocket knives to do everything, I think it goes to show that a high dollar fixed blades aren't the end all be all in knives. Thanks
Some very good points as usual. Appreciate the mention and good to hear the knife is performing for you.
Thanks Mark! Plan on making the knives and videos as long as I can. Appreciate the support.
You are very welcome. You have some of the most innovative designs out there, and as soon as the budget allows I'll have one.
Great video as usual Dave. I didn't know you were a WC knives fan. I myself am a very big fan of Mr William Collins.
I gave up on finding a compromise knife. I like big knives. I just do. I've never found a 5" knife that worked for me. That being said, doing fine carving, or trying to do fine carving, with a large knife is an exercise in frustration & fatigue. The solution for me was simply carrying more than one knife. I have my large belt knife and my smaller neck knife. My belt knife is my large 'survival' knife for building shelters, processing firewood, etc..., and my smaller neck knife is my carving knife.
My most carried combination has been a Ka-Bar BK7 and a Mora Companion, either the MG or the HD. This has been a pretty effective combination, but I'm really thinking about trading in the Companion for more of a dedicated carving knife. If you're carrying a 7" Ka-Bar (or similar) on your hip what do you need with the capabilities of a Mora Companion HD? I think the answer is that you don't. Now I'm just trying to decide whether to get the Mora Basic Wood Carving Knife with the black plastic handle or the Wood Carving Junior 73/164 Knife with the wooden handle, which is pretty much the same as the Classic 2/0, but with a metal finger guard (which I like). I like the wood handle better, but the plastic handle is probably the better knife. Decisions, decisions....
Thanks for the discussion on the carving knives.
Love your videos so far, but funny with the dog sometimes.
Loving the series brother. I really like the Jeff White slowdown knife I won in the drawing at the gathering! Can't wait for more videos :)
Abrahm
Good discussion on carving knives, and which blades for which techniques. 5*
Hi, love your videos. Is that the Mora 105 that you preferred? Gonna order one myself I think
this series is amazing
Unrelated somewhat, but I like bigger knives to be full flat grind. I believe that allows them to get in tighter to the work and I don't see it impacting their ability to do their big blade tasks. Of course, a saber or scandi big blade will split wood better, but that would be taking the talk into One Tool Option territory. I'll be looking for a good companion to the BHK Scout that's my mainstay now for skinning.
I do have a BHK Drover which is a sub-3" knife, but I'd actually like something with a thinner blade and longer handle myself to give myself more grasping options ergonomically when doing work for a long time. I learned my lesson after carving a spoon with an ESEE-6. I got it done, but it would've been infinitely easier to do it with the Mora I had on the bench right next to me the whole time.
And agreed on William Collins' knives. They are truly the work of a craftsman. I'm looking forward to owning one soon.
Wait, where are the 12in kitchen knives? Or the electric carving knife?
What? You meant wood carving? Oh, belay my last. That's what I get for watching this around lunch time.
Semper Fi
Why not a Flexcut or Hock? A single carving knife is only around $20 on Amazon. Perhaps they are of a questionable-quality steel? Regardless, I've found a Wharncliffe or sheepsfoot blade to be the very best for detailed carving. Why carry two knives of the same profile? The normal or drop-point belt/bushcraft knife is good for rough-in work and holes, but nothing beats the point of a Wharncliffe or sheepsfoot blade for detailed carving.
I would also recommend a tanto (i.e., chisel-point) blade for detailed carving. That chisel point is SO handy when carving things like lettering. I think that becoming proficient with MANY blade types, understanding their strengths and weaknesses, perfectly fits with your general bushcraft philosophy.
when you say a carving knife, is these meant to be used in like a survival/primitive scenario for making a tender bundle etc. or can the also be use for wood carving such as wood sculpting and other such projects?
Could you do a review of the CRKT Saker, bushcraft knife?
Off topic. What is your best recommendation for a Jim Bridger book?
thanks for the info dave!
Dave, as far as a jack knife goes, how do you feel about an opinel for carving? Just wondering because thats what I like to use and was curious as to your opinion.
Dave, you are well aware of how strong the Mora Bushcraft Black is. You and I both know this knife can fine carve and baton hardwood, I have worked Osage Orange, Hickory, White, red and Burr Oaks without any damage what so ever!
I have mora carving knife, that with wider and longer handle i gave like 5 bucks for it ... its great. This and spoon knife and you are ready for small carving projects, its cheap and fun.
For carving a Mora 106 cannot be beaten. Razor sharp and easy to sharpen. And cheap!
Dave could you please give the DragonFly 4.5 knife a try? I own one and i could say that it is the best carving knife ever made
+Peter Sun I can't see Dave buying a Tops knife lol.
What's your choice of knife to start a 7 year old kid handling? I'm working with my son on knife handling but he needs a knife that fits his small hands better than any I have. Fixed blade
+NaturalState Native Mora Safe Knife www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/morakniv-safe-knife/
+wildernessoutfitters Tried the www.moraofsweden.se/construction/classic-20 (?)
+Cain0078 Any Mora is a good carving knife as I said in the vid whatever fits you best-
Atkrdu Sweet idea, might just visit the store today... would be awesome with a scale pattern all over. Have a good one!
+NaturalState Native
I would recommend a Flexcut.
good info
I believe the pocketknife is still far superior to any of those fixed blade knives, and just about every old timer I know still uses pocket knife for fine carving. A pocketknife such as a stockman or a Congress can simply do things no four inch blade can do as easily.
I love fixed blade carving knives, but no carving knife set is complete without a pocketknife. This is where really fine carving starts, and ends, unless you carry a full set of fixed blade carvers.
A have a friend, one more experienced in living in the wild than anyone I know, who convinced me to make a Mora permanent sheath knife. I've found he wads right in doin so. Like many, I have no need for a separate hunting knife, or camping knife. I can skin a moose with a Mora, set up any kind of camp with a Mora, and I never have and never will put myself in a position where I need to baton with a knife,
But even as good as the Mora is, it's not as good for many carving tasks as a good, sharp pocketknife with at least three blades. Our ancestors knew exactly what they were doing when they made the pocketknife the primary fine carving knife. I don't think there is a good reason to go into the woods without a multi-bladed pocketknife that you know how to use.
Mora classic 2/0 with the 3" blade :)