Hi Everybody, the laptop I had for my repair this week turned out to be just a BIOS re-program, so it was not worth making a video on. So, this afforded me the opportunity to put forward my proposed solution for the hinge problem that we see on many of the modern Dell laptops. I've been thinking about this for a while, and this is the most practical and least expensive solution I can come up with! The items used to carry out the work in this video are: 6 x M3 Screws With Washers Flat Steel Bar 1000mm x 16mm x 2mm 2.5mm Drill Bit 3mm Tap File Grey Spray Paint Please feel free put in the comments below your own opinions / criticisms / optimizations on my solution.
This is a creative way to repair the hinge issue. Ive done many of these when the LCD cover is not available or customer is on a budget. Only thing I would recommend is dont use the entire flat bar. You can just use a square cutout where the damaged hinge is. great content!
Great approach. I repair in a Repair Cafe - max 3 hour stint, before you are thrown out. Also had failures with hot glue. Superglue did not dry fast enough either. My next attempt when I get one will be super glue and backing powder next. Just do not have the time and machinery to do this in a repair cafe, but other than buying a new lid, it is the best solution (in my eyes) Do loosen the hinge slightly.
Hi Karl, I was thinking is there any way of making this practical, so that I could use this solution for every laptop that comes in. The drilling and tapping is very easy and can be done in 5-10 minutes. Cutting, sanding and spray painting the flat steel cost me quite a bit of time. However, if I had the flat steel prepared in advance (cut to correct length, sanded to remove sharp edges, and painted silver), then I think my solution would be quicker than swopping screen / wifi /webcam to a new back cover. I will try on the next one that comes in. When I do replace the back cover, I'm always conscious that the system already failed, so I really loosen the hinges as much as I can. But I think the crux of the issue is that moulding the brass inserts in to the plastic back cover is not a good design.
@@therepairshare673 Nice idea, thought about it too in making it easier. If you have a workshop set up metal on-hand, right thickness cut to size, burr and sharp corner removal, measure, and then drill and tap in 10 mins and smooth off the burrs. Filed screws on top will come loose, unless you applied locktite or something. It will be heavier, the person wants your skill for less than a refurb lid :) Aluminium would give you less work, and no painting, but might be thicker? and you will need a finer screw thread Another one I have seen is to pop-rivet the top on, using big washers, but it looked really nasty, but on an old cheap laptop??? With glue, I believe you use the hottest setting on your air wand to heat the stick directly, not using a glue gun. Plus you get different type of stick temps and adhesions the problem is the hinges have no common specs. Plus some are located at the bottom of the panel, while others at the back of the panel. Also with glue, you need clamps. There is also something stronger than baking soda (not baking powder - different) which is graphite powder, and graphite powder has a much slower setting time than baking soda. Some have mixed in 10 percent soda into graphite. I have not tried any additives yet. The key to all this is Surface prep - rough sandpaper, and holding the joint steady while it sets
Sometimes you have to do that kind of work. To do it quickly: a) Brushed Stainless Steel Sheet Metal Plate (Very Cheap) b) rotary tool (dremel) - the device is NOT cheap due to its high-speed motor - but the cutting discs and other pieces that make up the assembly ARE. c) Rectangular silicone rubber sealing strip (aesthetic presentation, that is, it covers the metal plate to look nice or pretty; it is also very cheap) Thank you very much for sharing. All the best.
Hi. Pretty good idea but looks like a lot of work... I haven't had to deal with this myself but would suggest trying screw rivets. They would just leave a nice blank screw head on the outside. Enjoy your channel. Paul from Canada
Hi Paul, from the feedback that I've got, it seems to be the tapping of the metal that is the part that most people find intimidating. I've always like tapping and fastening things with screws, as opposed to adhesives/glues/welding etc - I guess because you can take them apart again if you need to adapt. However........ I have just checked out screw rivets, which I somehow have never come across. I think they actually make the solution much better - 1. No need to tap, just need to drill the six holes 2. No need to trim off excess of the M3 bolts and sand (which was a pain) 3. Most of the actual thread is inside the back cover, so the flat steel can be thinner. (making the solution lighter and not protruding as much). Let me see if I can get my hands on some and we can see how version 2.0 looks.
I find this very wrong cause it adds weight to the laptop.In my opinion the best way would be to put a a scew through the brass inserts and with a metal washer to tight the hinge inside the laptop.
Thanks for your contribution. I will weigh the additional screws and flat steel and put the weight in the video description. I tried many solutions to somehow keep the thread inside the back cover, as this is certainly preferable than having something external, but all such solutions require that the thread is fixed to the same plastic back cover - and I just dont trust it!
Hi Everybody, the laptop I had for my repair this week turned out to be just a BIOS re-program, so it was not worth making a video on. So, this afforded me the opportunity to put forward my proposed solution for the hinge problem that we see on many of the modern Dell laptops. I've been thinking about this for a while, and this is the most practical and least expensive solution I can come up with!
The items used to carry out the work in this video are:
6 x M3 Screws With Washers
Flat Steel Bar 1000mm x 16mm x 2mm
2.5mm Drill Bit
3mm Tap
File
Grey Spray Paint
Please feel free put in the comments below your own opinions / criticisms / optimizations on my solution.
This is a creative way to repair the hinge issue. Ive done many of these when the LCD cover is not available or customer is on a budget. Only thing I would recommend is dont use the entire flat bar. You can just use a square cutout where the damaged hinge is. great content!
Thank you for all videos and I wish You a Merry Christmas!!!
Thanks Andrei. Happy Christmas to you. And thanks for your support.
Amazing job! Thank you!
Hi Alex, I've had some great suggestions about improvements to my proposed solution. I will be making an updated version of the video soon.
Great approach.
I repair in a Repair Cafe - max 3 hour stint, before you are thrown out. Also had failures with hot glue. Superglue did not dry fast enough either. My next attempt when I get one will be super glue and backing powder next. Just do not have the time and machinery to do this in a repair cafe, but other than buying a new lid, it is the best solution (in my eyes)
Do loosen the hinge slightly.
Hi Karl, I was thinking is there any way of making this practical, so that I could use this solution for every laptop that comes in. The drilling and tapping is very easy and can be done in 5-10 minutes. Cutting, sanding and spray painting the flat steel cost me quite a bit of time. However, if I had the flat steel prepared in advance (cut to correct length, sanded to remove sharp edges, and painted silver), then I think my solution would be quicker than swopping screen / wifi /webcam to a new back cover. I will try on the next one that comes in.
When I do replace the back cover, I'm always conscious that the system already failed, so I really loosen the hinges as much as I can. But I think the crux of the issue is that moulding the brass inserts in to the plastic back cover is not a good design.
@@therepairshare673 Nice idea, thought about it too in making it easier. If you have a workshop set up metal on-hand, right thickness cut to size, burr and sharp corner removal, measure, and then drill and tap in 10 mins and smooth off the burrs. Filed screws on top will come loose, unless you applied locktite or something. It will be heavier, the person wants your skill for less than a refurb lid :)
Aluminium would give you less work, and no painting, but might be thicker? and you will need a finer screw thread
Another one I have seen is to pop-rivet the top on, using big washers, but it looked really nasty, but on an old cheap laptop???
With glue, I believe you use the hottest setting on your air wand to heat the stick directly, not using a glue gun. Plus you get different type of stick temps and adhesions
the problem is the hinges have no common specs. Plus some are located at the bottom of the panel, while others at the back of the panel.
Also with glue, you need clamps. There is also something stronger than baking soda (not baking powder - different) which is graphite powder, and graphite powder has a much slower setting time than baking soda. Some have mixed in 10 percent soda into graphite. I have not tried any additives yet.
The key to all this is Surface prep - rough sandpaper, and holding the joint steady while it sets
Sometimes you have to do that kind of work. To do it quickly:
a) Brushed Stainless Steel Sheet Metal Plate (Very Cheap)
b) rotary tool (dremel) - the device is NOT cheap due to its high-speed motor - but the cutting discs and other pieces that make up the assembly ARE.
c) Rectangular silicone rubber sealing strip (aesthetic presentation, that is, it covers the metal plate to look nice or pretty; it is also very cheap)
Thank you very much for sharing. All the best.
Story of my LIFE!
Hi. Pretty good idea but looks like a lot of work... I haven't had to deal with this myself but would suggest trying screw rivets. They would just leave a nice blank screw head on the outside. Enjoy your channel. Paul from Canada
Hi Paul, from the feedback that I've got, it seems to be the tapping of the metal that is the part that most people find intimidating. I've always like tapping and fastening things with screws, as opposed to adhesives/glues/welding etc - I guess because you can take them apart again if you need to adapt.
However........ I have just checked out screw rivets, which I somehow have never come across. I think they actually make the solution much better - 1. No need to tap, just need to drill the six holes 2. No need to trim off excess of the M3 bolts and sand (which was a pain) 3. Most of the actual thread is inside the back cover, so the flat steel can be thinner. (making the solution lighter and not protruding as much). Let me see if I can get my hands on some and we can see how version 2.0 looks.
planned obsoleteness
I find this very wrong cause it adds weight to the laptop.In my opinion the best way would be to put a a scew through the brass inserts and with a metal washer to tight the hinge inside the laptop.
Thanks for your contribution. I will weigh the additional screws and flat steel and put the weight in the video description. I tried many solutions to somehow keep the thread inside the back cover, as this is certainly preferable than having something external, but all such solutions require that the thread is fixed to the same plastic back cover - and I just dont trust it!
It's not a good idea
Please elaborate on why you think it's not a good idea. I'm genuinely interested to see if I have overlooked something.
@therepairshare673 Because you are a genius and we learn a lot from you, but the process of making higns is not as civilized as required.