I think you should focus more on the rim design, so it doesn’t have the deflection when it’s spinning. If you can keep the rim true the tire have a lot more lifespan, whether it be a solid strip of rubber glued on or hard foam.
i noticed this as well, i don't know how nobody has seen that. The inside part of the rim where there is no support is causing the ballooning, you can take your hand and squeeze the wheel they are so flimsy. Need a stronger rim, metal, carbon, just thicker, or some kind of support there.
I agree, the foam gets ripped off because the rim expands uneven.the weight of the car will reduce this but not enough to prevent it.those rims are key to keeping the rubber side down; :) i would suggest a wheel out of steel;Dont use aluminium because my teacher in school told me that aluminium is actually heavier then steel because its much weaker.They say its better because it looks better But a steel rim is actually better then a aluminium one.
We have a carbon filament winding machine at work, usually used for winding high speed rotors that run at well over 100k rpm. You need a carbon sleeve that presses on over the wheel under interference. The hoop stress will resist that expansion you are seeing, then possibly bond the tyre onto the sleeve.
Seems to be a good solution and on the top, the compound of cfk and genuine wheel material reduces vibrations on the rim what results in less stress too.👍
Think Castle use a Kevar band in their motors? Not sure if going for a GRP/kevlar weave wheel, but adding a grip element (ie weave a rubber element into it ,in the manufacture process) , so the tyre is a structural part of the wheel, not 'just' stuck on after?
I was just thinking and came up with a idea. It seems to me that the foam isn't the problem because look how always the inner rim expands. Try cutting 1mm inner side foam and put a fiber or metal ring around it so it doesn't expand.
This is the answer that will help Kev brake the record!! It's genious in its simplicity. This needs to get upvoted hard!! Those banana's held up to nearly 50k rpm... it wasn't the foam detaching, it was the inside of the wheel failing. Strengthen that, and you've got your world record contending wheels. Kudos! :)
This test was not in load mode. And because of the high rpm, the rims became like that, and when it is installed on the car, the main problem is the foams. Because this car is very heavy
Would be hard to put on. My first thought was something like a piston O-ring but that has a notch in it to allow it to expand and that is what we are trying to prevent. Would almost need to bend the wheel in to make it fit that way it isn't larger then the wheel and can't open up. overall though the thinner the wheel the easier this will be to do as there is less lip to worry about expanding out, however it does mean less traction to get up to speed. so you would become more limited by max run distance.
Once again... Get you some aluminum wheels. Drill some holes around them on the inner rim. Dip them in a rubber epoxy compound. The holes will allow the compound to bleed through to both sides and provide support while preventing ballooning. Let them run off and dry sideways for easy clean up and balancing. All you need is the right rubber epoxy compound...
The amount of power you have to have to not only strip the inner wheel while still completely blowing the outer diameter off of the rim is absolutely insane 😅 this thing is a rocket! Keep up the great work brother much respect!
But maybe that´s also Part of the Problem. When the Car gets a little lifted, the Wheels will instantly gain a lot of speed and reach the critical Point of the Foam. Connecting it to be a 4*4 like Kevin, planed should really help. To sum it up he could maybe try to set a max. RPM for the Motors to reach, depending on what Tire he is using? Really dont know if its possible, but it would make sense to me.
You've got me frothing at the mouth Kev! Seriously can't wait for you to make history. You have invested so much time and money, it's going to happen xx
Tip: Left handed drill bits are really good for rounded off screws. Instead of just drilling them out, 9 times out of 10 they grip and just thread the screw out.
Not sure if he mentions it later in the video but on the first dyno run the wheel itself under the foam tire is expanding as well. Maybe a wheel with stronger material and or more cross bracing inside would help keep the tire together longer.
Tires are critical for electric-motor cars, because they have to carry all the power. But crucially, Project Air's jet-powered car puts power directly into the air... its tyres are just for rolling and steering. So this is vital to crack for the motorcars to win
Curious about fire sprinkler system. I've been a designer of fire sprinklers for years. i was intrigued when you mentioned your system. is that a compulsory system? or did you install, or have it installed ?
Use larger diameter wheels! Larger diameter wheels will have lower centrifugal force. One way to visualize this is that larger diameter wheels rotate fewer times to achieve the same velocity of the car. Lower RPM=less centrifugal force. As an engineering student, I'll design you a wheel if you're interested and if you will pay the material and machining costs! We could make a carbon fiber or aluminum wheel, balance it, and attach foam for traction.
Hey Kev love your videos! your a big reason I am getting back into this, you absolutely have an awesome view of this hobby, it’s all for fun !!! Best of luck to you on getting to that world record 👍🏻
Kev, I have never seen you doing so much science in your videos before. This is awesome. Science is what gets you to 250 mph. It was never gonna be stupid amounts of horsepower. Keep it up. This is amazing content.
Tip for getting small bolts and screws out without stripping - Take your driver, and a hammer, put the driver into the bolt and hit the top of it with a hammer for a few sharp shocks. This usually "breaks the seal" and makes them much easier to turn without stripping
Kev!!! Get yourself a set of reverse twist drills for removing screws where you've rounded the hex off. As they bite in they unscrew your damaged screws. Easy peasy.
I think you should really consider larger wheels and then go with either foam or rubber. The larger diameter wheel won’t have as many rpm’s at speed, and you will deal with a lot less centrifugal force. Just build a body with big, smooth wheel arches, and mold them smooth. Sort of like the Batmobile. If you run a wheel that is 5” vs running a 2.5” wheel, it will have to spin 1/4 the speed as a 2.5” tire to cover the same distance in the same time.
Well yes and no because much like a cutting bit the speed on the surface is linear. A reduction in weight/density might help but ultimately it's the tensile strength of the rubber that is the problem. I would suggest using a urathane wheel which can have a certain amount of deflection under load but is much stronger than rubber or foam.
Have you considered modifying some skateboard wheels to fit? I guess you could mill out the centre’s to fit hubs inside, there’s a massive range of “A” hardness ratings to suit the grip you need plus I’m guessing the extra weight might help with stability? Just a thought?
Had to pause the video real quick to mention the work bench Kev has and how he uses it. I have one similar and it's beat to crap lol. Nice to see someone taking full advantage of their work bench ❤. Love ya Kevin!
My question is: Why don't you use bigger tires? The bigger the tire, the lower the rpm for any given speed. Also, you forgot to blur a frame with the wheel when you were balancing it, so... I think I know what you're doing.
Wow😱😱😱❤️❤️😂👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 speed and powah!!!! 250mph+ in the bag. Most definetly beating the 220mph current record. You will have both offroad and on road rc speed records welldone Kev 🎉🎉🎉
Can't wait to see it go down a proper drag strip!!!! Much smoother and way stickier! Have some of the track adhesive on hand to help out with grip... I wonder if wheel slip is contributing to tire destruction? The tires are putting a lot of power down, and they must be slipping and getting damaged, especially as wind resistance increases. 👍 hell yea!
As below, a nice set of CNC machined Ali (7075 grade) rims (couple sets to change out) and get them into a mold to skin them with PU! a good 95shore Polyurethane molded onto the Ali rims will make this thing really haul ass! Coming from a background in racing control line planes over tarmac (Barkston Heath Airfield being one spot!) we use a hard tooling grade (Red) Polyurethane for the tire and it takes a beating. Just an idea
Hey i got an idea you should try, what if you make a fender with bearings mounts with a cnc so when the tire is trying to get bigger the bearings just make it roll and keep them in shape
You should put a rubber O-ring or some thin-cut fuel tubing between all the ball links and rod ends to remove all the slop and also make them more precise feeling. The speed sausage is so bad arse, Kevin!
Holy awesomeness!!! I think you are going to succeed!!! I also think the people who commented about the wheel/tire design are on to something. It is pretty crazy how much the rim itself expanded.
I think your vids are great! Always watch. I agree with the commenters it’s the actual wheel that’s letting the tyre down. A solid thin wheel may be the go. Good luck, get that record.
@@KevinTalbotTV I disagree, you just drilled 6 holes in an already flimsy wheel. Wouldn't be surprised if the wheel now completely fails at the wheel mounting...
Seeing that start up test was amazing, can't imagine in person. Craziest rc rig I have seen by far, makes me think of the massive jets or large helicopters it's on another level dood.
My theory is what about aluminum rims so they don’t blow up and you can make them from light aluminum which is still berry light and even if it’s heavier it could help keep the wheels on the ground just that slight bit more
Great video and interesting experiment and well documented foam test, definitely enjoyed that Kev. Looking forward to seeing these run m, good like buddy 💪
7:31 you'll want to get a magnetic prop balancer. Those are way more accurate that the DuBro ones. Balanced a bunch of 13 inch tri blade props for an XClass quadcopter and the ones "balanced" on the DuBro were still causing high speed shakes. Re-did it on the magnetic one and they came out way better.
Kevin Kevin Kevin,! the back of the wheel needs a solid disc to stop it from flaring out. Make a drum wheel to secure that sausage wheel. The foam tyre glue on the banana wheel is obviously nice and strong, so perhaps try to jerry rig one of those super duper wheels. Stay sausagey fine fellow and good luck with that 250mph goal.
After sorting out the wheels/tyres, I suggest focusing on vehicle aerodynamics to increase speed. This would make a great project for a university student as part of their Masters/Doctorate. If you can make the car/body narrower, lower, and with less drag. Reducing drag is free speed. Railway train wheels have steel tyres under high tension, so the suggestions for carbon fibre sleeves make sense. Consider replacing the carbon fibre chassis with 6mm honey comb core between carbon fibre. Much more rigid but not so robust. Chinese sources will CNC cut it to your drawing. If you are using stainless steel or titanium screws, or steel screws into aluminium threads, lube the threads to stop galling (makes the screws impossible to remove).
One thing to not forget is that the wheels also need to transmit a lot of tangential force (basically the force that pushes the car forward). You an estimate the force (for all 4 wheels together) by P = F*v (power = force * velocity). You know the power from the motors and how fast the car is going. That gets you the lateral force the wheel needs to withstand. For this reason I think the project air jet turbine car will not be as limited by the wheels as they don't need to resist the lateral force. Only centrifugal.
I think the wheels need support further out on the barrel. They're all on the face and that's causing it to balloon. Maybe the stretching and twisting of the wheel itself is causing the glue to heat up (because of the expansion) and unstick?
The inside of the wheels need a stronger structure to keep it from flinging out. A carbon fiber or titanium wheel should do better than plastic you would think.
Two suggestions, as others have mentioned the plastic deforming is a definite issue, for something light weight and tough you could try having the wheel printed in carbon fiber filament which might hold together better and still be light and cost effective. Also have you tried a harder durometer rubber? Awesome videos, thanks man!
Maybe try aluminum rims sacrifice a little bit of weight for strength, and then you could try different kinds of tire compounds that we could glue on the aluminum rim or vulcanized if somebody could make that
Kev, get some left handed drills for the pins you have to drill out. Half the time you are drilling with them, because you are drilling the opposite direction, the pins just undo them self's and come out!
So here's my logical conclusion on the wheels IMO the best possible idea will be to machine them out of something like Mg/Alu or Ti/Alu alloy with lots of internal supposrt, and grue a thin strip of silicone on top for the grip. Not foam, not rubber, silicone. Yes, it's probably going to expand a bit more, but it's way more heat-resistant, and it theoretically should be more resistant to rubbing on the asphalt. Plus it should give an insane amount of grip, if threaded correctly (look at semi-slicks on the hypercars for reference)
Interesting video, thanks for sharing Your experiments. I once worked in a swiss company that produced dynamometers to measure the behavior of car wheels, with focus to the tires. You definitely need a road-simulation and defined, realistic "downforce" between the tire and the "road" to bring Your tests closer to realistic use. In optimum the "Road" is a big wheel (in RC-scale maybe 12" diameter or so) that can also be braked, to simulate the car's aerodynamic drag. Test without any load is just a "flywheel". Good for testing tire glue, but it says not much about the bahavior of the wheel in reality. (Your 2nd test is a good example for that: in real use with the load of the car's weight and downforce, the rim would not deform like that.) Btw. The professional dynamometers have been twist- and tiltable too (for simulation of different wheel alingment or driving curves) they even had controlled temperature. (a very important factor!)
No worries about stealing that design. The rim deforms so much, the vehicle will become uncontrollable. A cross section shows an L, a problem shape that change of material will not overcome. It needs at least a T cross section similar to ordinary car wheels. Excellent idea to do bench testing before taking it out. More testing!
Kevin, looks like you have found the Achilles' heel for not just your rig, but the other speed run guys. CNC’d magnesium rims perhaps? Strength with low unsprung weight. Or ribbing and a thicker inner rim that won’t interfere with steering and suspension components? Keep chasing your dream!
Den grossen Regler hatten wir auch , bis er in 2weeks durch ging, einfach so, eine teure Erfahrung, nun haben wir wieder einen MPX Regler, viel billiger und hält!!
The "speed" these were running at is being calculated on the original diameter of the wheel. If they were spinning with traction on a car at these rpms they would be going considerably faster. Safe from my couch here at my home with my beer in my hand, I think you should be focusing on the rims, supporting the inner and outer bead areas so they don't balloon/expand/biggificate!
I hear the comment about coming up with a stronger wheel with less deflection, say with stronger inner ribs... but what about longitudinal belts like road tires, to restrict the swelling of the foam??? Kevlar, carbon or even metal?
For everyone saying aluminum wheel because the wheel is the problem, I agree the wheel is a problem. Aluminum wheels with bend and go out of round at less than 100mph. They will not be anywhere near round by 200, if the vehicle makes it there.
Hi kevin.. greetings from south africa.. Because of centrifical force make an alluminium wheel with holes in the wheel and put a thick rubber on the inside of the rim.. it will not have traction in the begining of the run but will gain more and more traction the faster it speeds up as the rubber will start to push through the holes from the inside and will have support not to break.. think of it as a inside out wheel
A lot of the comments are focusing on the wheels and i think that makes sense. Kevins car seemed to have more power (and weight) than the other competitors, so i would imagine he could get away with a little heavier and stronger wheel. It seems like it would be worth a try, at least, to see if the wheel deforming is what's really causing the tire problems.
Kevin make sure the dragstrip is freshly cleaned with no glue on it. The foam tires don't like the glue that is used on the track. I work at Tucson Dragway & have had R/C cars try to go down it & it just doesn't work when the track still has glue on it. Good luck my man.
I like how always try new things and explaining what you do .. i didn't look at all the comments, here's but i got a idea, not sure if anyone had the same idea What if you design a mag in a honeycomb formation or aerospace isogrid pattern and use your best rubber/foam for a tire, because with airflow that can flow thru the space of mag might help the wheel from heating up and explode, thanks or the great content, i enjoy watching your video's good luck
I think you should focus more on the rim design, so it doesn’t have the deflection when it’s spinning. If you can keep the rim true the tire have a lot more lifespan, whether it be a solid strip of rubber glued on or hard foam.
i noticed this as well, i don't know how nobody has seen that. The inside part of the rim where there is no support is causing the ballooning, you can take your hand and squeeze the wheel they are so flimsy. Need a stronger rim, metal, carbon, just thicker, or some kind of support there.
I agree, the foam gets ripped off because the rim expands uneven.the weight of the car will reduce this but not enough to prevent it.those rims are key to keeping the rubber side down; :)
i would suggest a wheel out of steel;Dont use aluminium because my teacher in school told me that aluminium is actually heavier then steel because its much weaker.They say its better because it looks better But a steel rim is actually better then a aluminium one.
Almost for sure the inside is expanding more then the outside!
absolutely, maybe an inner ring to support it!
Exactly. The rims will be the point of failure. I'm surprised that he's not using aluminum.
We have a carbon filament winding machine at work, usually used for winding high speed rotors that run at well over 100k rpm. You need a carbon sleeve that presses on over the wheel under interference. The hoop stress will resist that expansion you are seeing, then possibly bond the tyre onto the sleeve.
Seems to be a good solution and on the top, the compound of cfk and genuine wheel material reduces vibrations on the rim what results in less stress too.👍
That's sounds legit to me, i love these comments. I also like smarts and problem solving
nah at that rpm only good for drifting, no speed run
Think Castle use a Kevar band in their motors?
Not sure if going for a GRP/kevlar weave wheel, but adding a grip element (ie weave a rubber element into it ,in the manufacture process) , so the tyre is a structural part of the wheel, not 'just' stuck on after?
Call me crazy I would use aluminum or carbon fiber rims
I was just thinking and came up with a idea. It seems to me that the foam isn't the problem because look how always the inner rim expands. Try cutting 1mm inner side foam and put a fiber or metal ring around it so it doesn't expand.
This is the answer that will help Kev brake the record!! It's genious in its simplicity. This needs to get upvoted hard!! Those banana's held up to nearly 50k rpm... it wasn't the foam detaching, it was the inside of the wheel failing. Strengthen that, and you've got your world record contending wheels. Kudos! :)
I was thinking either this, or a wheel that has even a little support on the inside when it’s designed. Basically what you’re saying but on the inside
This test was not in load mode. And because of the high rpm, the rims became like that, and when it is installed on the car, the main problem is the foams. Because this car is very heavy
@@amirxr8464 the same effect still happens just not as much. 100% worth trying over just assuming it’s cause it’s “under load”
Would be hard to put on. My first thought was something like a piston O-ring but that has a notch in it to allow it to expand and that is what we are trying to prevent. Would almost need to bend the wheel in to make it fit that way it isn't larger then the wheel and can't open up.
overall though the thinner the wheel the easier this will be to do as there is less lip to worry about expanding out, however it does mean less traction to get up to speed. so you would become more limited by max run distance.
*_Michelin or Pirelli needs to make speed run tires for RC cars!!!😅🤣🤣_*
Once again... Get you some aluminum wheels. Drill some holes around them on the inner rim. Dip them in a rubber epoxy compound. The holes will allow the compound to bleed through to both sides and provide support while preventing ballooning. Let them run off and dry sideways for easy clean up and balancing. All you need is the right rubber epoxy compound...
That is actually really smart man, I hope he tries this
This, but make the wheels out of carbon fiber over aluminum.
i know it exspensive. but what about titanium rims
I'm so excited for Kevin. He's put so much work into this. I hope that it at least makes a full potential pass without mechanical failure.
The amount of power you have to have to not only strip the inner wheel while still completely blowing the outer diameter off of the rim is absolutely insane 😅 this thing is a rocket! Keep up the great work brother much respect!
tata1293
But maybe that´s also Part of the Problem. When the Car gets a little lifted, the Wheels will instantly gain a lot of speed and reach the critical Point of the Foam. Connecting it to be a 4*4 like Kevin, planed should really help. To sum it up he could maybe try to set a max. RPM for the Motors to reach, depending on what Tire he is using? Really dont know if its possible, but it would make sense to me.
You've got me frothing at the mouth Kev! Seriously can't wait for you to make history. You have invested so much time and money, it's going to happen xx
Tip: Left handed drill bits are really good for rounded off screws. Instead of just drilling them out, 9 times out of 10 they grip and just thread the screw out.
Not sure if he mentions it later in the video but on the first dyno run the wheel itself under the foam tire is expanding as well. Maybe a wheel with stronger material and or more cross bracing inside would help keep the tire together longer.
Tires are critical for electric-motor cars, because they have to carry all the power. But crucially, Project Air's jet-powered car puts power directly into the air... its tyres are just for rolling and steering. So this is vital to crack for the motorcars to win
There can be only ONE Kevin Talbot. Never mind what James and Raz are up to.....GET THAT RECORD!!!👍🤴👍
Curious about fire sprinkler system. I've been a designer of fire sprinklers for years. i was intrigued when you mentioned your system.
is that a compulsory system? or did you install, or have it installed ?
Use larger diameter wheels! Larger diameter wheels will have lower centrifugal force. One way to visualize this is that larger diameter wheels rotate fewer times to achieve the same velocity of the car. Lower RPM=less centrifugal force.
As an engineering student, I'll design you a wheel if you're interested and if you will pay the material and machining costs! We could make a carbon fiber or aluminum wheel, balance it, and attach foam for traction.
Hey Kev
love your videos!
your a big reason I am getting back into this, you absolutely have an awesome view of this hobby, it’s all for fun !!!
Best of luck to you on getting to that world record 👍🏻
Kev, I have never seen you doing so much science in your videos before. This is awesome. Science is what gets you to 250 mph. It was never gonna be stupid amounts of horsepower. Keep it up. This is amazing content.
Dyno is genius
*_Kevin, I am dead curious... what is the overall weight with packs installed and ready to go... 45lbs???_*
Tip for getting small bolts and screws out without stripping - Take your driver, and a hammer, put the driver into the bolt and hit the top of it with a hammer for a few sharp shocks. This usually "breaks the seal" and makes them much easier to turn without stripping
Kev!!!
Get yourself a set of reverse twist drills for removing screws where you've rounded the hex off. As they bite in they unscrew your damaged screws. Easy peasy.
I think you should really consider larger wheels and then go with either foam or rubber. The larger diameter wheel won’t have as many rpm’s at speed, and you will deal with a lot less centrifugal force. Just build a body with big, smooth wheel arches, and mold them smooth. Sort of like the Batmobile. If you run a wheel that is 5” vs running a 2.5” wheel, it will have to spin 1/4 the speed as a 2.5” tire to cover the same distance in the same time.
Half the speed not quarter, circumference varies linearly with diameter, but yes, bigger wheels will help.
Well yes and no because much like a cutting bit the speed on the surface is linear. A reduction in weight/density might help but ultimately it's the tensile strength of the rubber that is the problem. I would suggest using a urathane wheel which can have a certain amount of deflection under load but is much stronger than rubber or foam.
Pardon my French but holy F*** 20,000 rpm is INSANE!
Have you considered modifying some skateboard wheels to fit? I guess you could mill out the centre’s to fit hubs inside, there’s a massive range of “A” hardness ratings to suit the grip you need plus I’m guessing the extra weight might help with stability?
Just a thought?
Had to pause the video real quick to mention the work bench Kev has and how he uses it. I have one similar and it's beat to crap lol. Nice to see someone taking full advantage of their work bench ❤. Love ya Kevin!
My question is: Why don't you use bigger tires? The bigger the tire, the lower the rpm for any given speed. Also, you forgot to blur a frame with the wheel when you were balancing it, so... I think I know what you're doing.
The surface speed remains high
Centrifugal forces
Raises the car off the ground as well and is more aerodynamic surface area
@@maxwellfrank4166wheels are covered and are narrower, so the frontal area(critical in this case) is actually smaller
Get ahold of good year
Try wheels with no offset. When you make them narrower you should still be able to steer.(not fully but good enough)🏁The records yours
GAME OVER!!!
Nothing from your tests indicate your wheels are better.
I like to think of Kevin as the late Rik Mayall of RC. THE Brit we love to watch 🇬🇧
your so right
Lookin good Kev, those mambas look and sound mean. Get that world record and launch that sausage to the moon!
Random thought. Use a left handed drill bit to remove broken bolts.
awww just when i want sleep. aaaallright one more video kev!
Mans making the world most intense electric skateboard
lol first like and reply in ten months
my cattle truck only has 70 hp! your rc car is more powerful then it by far :)
Wow😱😱😱❤️❤️😂👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 speed and powah!!!! 250mph+ in the bag. Most definetly beating the 220mph current record. You will have both offroad and on road rc speed records welldone Kev 🎉🎉🎉
You make the best rc fast car project in world 💪🔥 you are the best and most fun rc youtuber in the world!!!
Can't wait to see it go down a proper drag strip!!!! Much smoother and way stickier!
Have some of the track adhesive on hand to help out with grip... I wonder if wheel slip is contributing to tire destruction? The tires are putting a lot of power down, and they must be slipping and getting damaged, especially as wind resistance increases.
👍 hell yea!
Those scorched parts knuckles are a work of art!
Love the enthusiaum Kev. Keep the videos comming.
I always enjoy youre way off presenting the video,so much energy and joi in what you are doing. Keep it up Kev🎉🎉🎉
Really nice TH-cam channel I like how you do honest reviews because you don't get sponsors by the RC companies
As below, a nice set of CNC machined Ali (7075 grade) rims (couple sets to change out) and get them into a mold to skin them with PU!
a good 95shore Polyurethane molded onto the Ali rims will make this thing really haul ass!
Coming from a background in racing control line planes over tarmac (Barkston Heath Airfield being one spot!) we use a hard tooling grade (Red) Polyurethane for the tire and it takes a beating.
Just an idea
Hey i got an idea you should try, what if you make a fender with bearings mounts with a cnc so when the tire is trying to get bigger the bearings just make it roll and keep them in shape
You should put a rubber O-ring or some thin-cut fuel tubing between all the ball links and rod ends to remove all the slop and also make them more precise feeling. The speed sausage is so bad arse, Kevin!
Holy awesomeness!!! I think you are going to succeed!!! I also think the people who commented about the wheel/tire design are on to something. It is pretty crazy how much the rim itself expanded.
Simple way to fix the tyre problem. Much larger tyres! Less rotating force.
I think your vids are great! Always watch. I agree with the commenters it’s the actual wheel that’s letting the tyre down. A solid thin wheel may be the go. Good luck, get that record.
I know you would've heard it a billion times before...but it's the rim. Good luck Kev! I hope you get your world record!
Epic. I love your updates so dang much. Look forward to them every day!
10:26 Those wheel nut conversions are awesome, That would definitely be a great upgrade for all RC's imo
they are so good!!
Back passenger side motor looks loose, can see it rotating 14:33 @@KevinTalbotTV
They are a pain in the arse changing the wheels every pass. 24 screws vs 4 nuts but they are Awesome.
@@KevinTalbotTV I disagree, you just drilled 6 holes in an already flimsy wheel. Wouldn't be surprised if the wheel now completely fails at the wheel mounting...
@@GamezGuru1 they held up on the world record car so already proven to work
I think you should make the wheels like the Bugatti Chiron Pur sport 300-plus by having steel implants inside the rubber of the wheel
Seeing that start up test was amazing, can't imagine in person. Craziest rc rig I have seen by far, makes me think of the massive jets or large helicopters it's on another level dood.
It's good you are trying your own design. Should be interesting to see if it's a world record breaker. Looking forward to it
Wow I’m really impressed by the machining of those parts, well done. Wow I’m really impressed by the machining of those parts, well done.
Wow I’m really impressed by the machining of those parts, well done
Another great video. Keep them coming. Can't wait till you get that car over 200mph
My theory is what about aluminum rims so they don’t blow up and you can make them from light aluminum which is still berry light and even if it’s heavier it could help keep the wheels on the ground just that slight bit more
3:56 Carnage 😳 Wasn't expecting that 😂
Great video and interesting experiment and well documented foam test, definitely enjoyed that Kev.
Looking forward to seeing these run m, good like buddy 💪
You can get the speed just need to find the best tyre that pushes down to the ground the most then you should get it well done Kev
7:31 you'll want to get a magnetic prop balancer. Those are way more accurate that the DuBro ones. Balanced a bunch of 13 inch tri blade props for an XClass quadcopter and the ones "balanced" on the DuBro were still causing high speed shakes. Re-did it on the magnetic one and they came out way better.
Kevin Kevin Kevin,! the back of the wheel needs a solid disc to stop it from flaring out. Make a drum wheel to secure that sausage wheel. The foam tyre glue on the banana wheel is obviously nice and strong, so perhaps try to jerry rig one of those super duper wheels. Stay sausagey fine fellow and good luck with that 250mph goal.
After sorting out the wheels/tyres, I suggest focusing on vehicle aerodynamics to increase speed. This would make a great project for a university student as part of their Masters/Doctorate. If you can make the car/body narrower, lower, and with less drag. Reducing drag is free speed. Railway train wheels have steel tyres under high tension, so the suggestions for carbon fibre sleeves make sense. Consider replacing the carbon fibre chassis with 6mm honey comb core between carbon fibre. Much more rigid but not so robust. Chinese sources will CNC cut it to your drawing. If you are using stainless steel or titanium screws, or steel screws into aluminium threads, lube the threads to stop galling (makes the screws impossible to remove).
Hey Kev. Great video. But I like it when you go BOOOOM and what ever you were doing is done. That is SO cool man
ITS A GREAT DAY WHEN KEV POSTS! 🎉🎉🎉
One thing to not forget is that the wheels also need to transmit a lot of tangential force (basically the force that pushes the car forward). You an estimate the force (for all 4 wheels together) by P = F*v (power = force * velocity). You know the power from the motors and how fast the car is going. That gets you the lateral force the wheel needs to withstand. For this reason I think the project air jet turbine car will not be as limited by the wheels as they don't need to resist the lateral force. Only centrifugal.
I think the wheels need support further out on the barrel. They're all on the face and that's causing it to balloon.
Maybe the stretching and twisting of the wheel itself is causing the glue to heat up (because of the expansion) and unstick?
I like when you put your brilliance into test!
The inside of the wheels need a stronger structure to keep it from flinging out. A carbon fiber or titanium wheel should do better than plastic you would think.
Kev I think you should try aluminum rims It looks like the inside of the plastic rim is stretching out
Two suggestions, as others have mentioned the plastic deforming is a definite issue, for something light weight and tough you could try having the wheel printed in carbon fiber filament which might hold together better and still be light and cost effective. Also have you tried a harder durometer rubber? Awesome videos, thanks man!
Maybe try aluminum rims sacrifice a little bit of weight for strength, and then you could try different kinds of tire compounds that we could glue on the aluminum rim or vulcanized if somebody could make that
Kev, get some left handed drills for the pins you have to drill out. Half the time you are drilling with them, because you are drilling the opposite direction, the pins just undo them self's and come out!
Absolutely brilliant Kev !!!!! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
So here's my logical conclusion on the wheels
IMO the best possible idea will be to machine them out of something like Mg/Alu or Ti/Alu alloy with lots of internal supposrt, and grue a thin strip of silicone on top for the grip. Not foam, not rubber, silicone. Yes, it's probably going to expand a bit more, but it's way more heat-resistant, and it theoretically should be more resistant to rubbing on the asphalt. Plus it should give an insane amount of grip, if threaded correctly (look at semi-slicks on the hypercars for reference)
I vote that you hire a good high speed camera for future wheel testing, and get some amazing slow motion shots of the failures!
you are bang on kev with your tire design top-secret
Excellent looks like the new wheels will do the trick 🚀😁👌 hopefully you'll be celebrating next time Kev 🎉
These things are REALLY coming together nicely. Best luck on your next run. It's bound to be EPIC!
Interesting video, thanks for sharing Your experiments.
I once worked in a swiss company that produced dynamometers to measure the behavior of car wheels, with focus to the tires. You definitely need a road-simulation and defined, realistic "downforce" between the tire and the "road" to bring Your tests closer to realistic use. In optimum the "Road" is a big wheel (in RC-scale maybe 12" diameter or so) that can also be braked, to simulate the car's aerodynamic drag.
Test without any load is just a "flywheel". Good for testing tire glue, but it says not much about the bahavior of the wheel in reality.
(Your 2nd test is a good example for that: in real use with the load of the car's weight and downforce, the rim would not deform like that.)
Btw. The professional dynamometers have been twist- and tiltable too (for simulation of different wheel alingment or driving curves) they even had controlled temperature. (a very important factor!)
No worries about stealing that design. The rim deforms so much, the vehicle will become uncontrollable. A cross section shows an L, a problem shape that change of material will not overcome. It needs at least a T cross section similar to ordinary car wheels. Excellent idea to do bench testing before taking it out. More testing!
LETS GOOO WE NEED TO SEE THAT WORLD RECORD!!!
love this video..Kevin woke up and said "I can do science me"
I've got it!! Try roller blade wheels trimmed flat on a lathe and adapted hubs and record broken, next.
Who would have thought that the sausage that started as a joke would turn into the bleeding edge of custom rc cars.
Kevin, looks like you have found the Achilles' heel for not just your rig, but the other speed run guys. CNC’d magnesium rims perhaps? Strength with low unsprung weight. Or ribbing and a thicker inner rim that won’t interfere with steering and suspension components? Keep chasing your dream!
Fair play David’s scorched parts are absolute quality I’m buying them as well 👍👍👍👍👍. First class
Den grossen Regler hatten wir auch , bis er in 2weeks durch ging, einfach so, eine teure Erfahrung, nun haben wir wieder einen MPX Regler, viel billiger und hält!!
The "speed" these were running at is being calculated on the original diameter of the wheel. If they were spinning with traction on a car at these rpms they would be going considerably faster. Safe from my couch here at my home with my beer in my hand, I think you should be focusing on the rims, supporting the inner and outer bead areas so they don't balloon/expand/biggificate!
I hear the comment about coming up with a stronger wheel with less deflection, say with stronger inner ribs... but what about longitudinal belts like road tires, to restrict the swelling of the foam??? Kevlar, carbon or even metal?
For everyone saying aluminum wheel because the wheel is the problem, I agree the wheel is a problem. Aluminum wheels with bend and go out of round at less than 100mph. They will not be anywhere near round by 200, if the vehicle makes it there.
Hi kevin.. greetings from south africa..
Because of centrifical force make an alluminium wheel with holes in the wheel and put a thick rubber on the inside of the rim.. it will not have traction in the begining of the run but will gain more and more traction the faster it speeds up as the rubber will start to push through the holes from the inside and will have support not to break.. think of it as a inside out wheel
A lot of the comments are focusing on the wheels and i think that makes sense. Kevins car seemed to have more power (and weight) than the other competitors, so i would imagine he could get away with a little heavier and stronger wheel. It seems like it would be worth a try, at least, to see if the wheel deforming is what's really causing the tire problems.
Kevin make sure the dragstrip is freshly cleaned with no glue on it. The foam tires don't like the glue that is used on the track. I work at Tucson Dragway & have had R/C cars try to go down it & it just doesn't work when the track still has glue on it. Good luck my man.
Really good video as always 😀😀 Greetings from Sweden
I like how always try new things and explaining what you do .. i didn't look at all the comments, here's but i got a idea, not sure if anyone had the same idea
What if you design a mag in a honeycomb formation or aerospace isogrid pattern and use your best rubber/foam for a tire, because with airflow that can flow thru the space of mag might help the wheel from heating up and explode, thanks or the great content, i enjoy watching your video's good luck
Very cool experiment with the tire speed and strength. Thank you.
This is my favorite video so far. Those tires that deformed
But didn't fly apart have potential. Stronger stiffer wheels to hold their shape.
Will bigger tyre help?
I haven't watched in a while but you have come so far I remember when I first watched you at 600k well done🎉
You need a wheel that acts like a radial drag tire, starts flat amd gets bigger with speed. Will help with the top speed