Have you ever tried to replace the control arms on your C, CLK or SLK class? This requires range of power tools, high strength as well as patience and above intermediate mechanical knowledge. Not being able to lift the car on a hoist makes it even more challenging, what do you think, can it be a DIY?
A few years ago I replaced the torque struts or upper control arms on my CLK ,,it was a big job and I agree it can be done , but would be so much easier with the car up high on a lift. Soon I will be replacing a front strut mount , the rubber has cracked inside it and the bolt is not in the centre of the fender hole,,it is harsh over bumps. So I get to undo the strut and sway bar bolts again..
I replaced the control arms and anti-roll bar links on my 2012 C Class a couple of years ago, not a particularly difficult job and I saved around £500 UKP.
Local Mercedes dealer wants ~$1100 just for the parts, and $200/hour for labor. I'll save around $1,000, and that includes buying tools I didn't have. Parts cost me $205. Not OEM, but I'm sure they'll outlast the rest of the car ('07 CLK350 cabriolet)
Your mechanical skill may be even better than car repair shop💯! For control arm rubber bushing, do you regularly put oil or lubricant to keep from dry rotting? Or you don't lubricate it just like everyone else?
Thanks Brian, I think rubber and lubricant don't really get along. I have not seen much on owners manuals about keeping suspension parts lubricated and that might cause them to absorb more dust. I believe they should be kept clean as much as possible.
I admire your dedication to your old Merc's. I'm about to do the same job on my CLK. I'm not being critical, but wouldn't it have been wise to replace the anti-rollbar bushings whilst you were there? Keep up the good work. 👏🏽
Thanks Richard, you are 100% right, I actually have a kit of 10 suspension parts (including the stabilizer links, tie rods, and steering rack ends) but as I said in the beginning this is for road worthy, I now have 14 days from the failure of the RWC to fix the issues otherwise have to pay the fees again, so just wanted to focus on this. And this might happen to others in real life again that they would need to replace these 4 parts in rush. My focus was purely on time and feasibility of the project for DIYers like me. Looking at my other videos, I usually replace a series of parts while working in an area. Also in Australia, accessing the parts is not easy and usually time-consuming and requires better planning ahead.
Just a possible tip, I’m doing this job on a 209 clk 500, I checked the part diagram for away bar bushings and it wasn’t there. I went to my local Mercedes dealer and they told me the bushings are only available with a new sway bar. Can’t get them individually
@@BenzAddiction They actually test your car to see if it's roadworthy? That's odd. Is that in the US? Where I live in the midwestern US, as long as it rolls under its own power, you're good to go!
The control arms are the same, but different bolts are available (with notch) to allow camber/caster adjustment. The normal bolts would only fit in the middle of the hole, though.
You gotta work on your camera and lighting game, my guy.. Did you measure the ride height before removing said parts? How does one know where and when to tighten..?
You just have to replace them and take it for alignment period otherwise you’ll loose all your tires within a few driving hours. If you’re far away from an alignment shop rather use the old school tape measure until you get time for a proper alignment.
@@BenzAddiction you mean the ball joint cannot be separate from the main part, just to make clear i am NOT A MECHANIC, i just watch my mechanic work on my car, once i changed similar parts on an Alfa Romeo 164 3 liter, and the ball joints were a smallish part of rubber, and also in the U.K there is a program called WHEELER DEALER and they fix cars
*recommends not doing this at home* *me who's already disassembled the car and put it back together but didn't follow the torque specs, just made everything tight asf* "oh.."
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Have you ever tried to replace the control arms on your C, CLK or SLK class? This requires range of power tools, high strength as well as patience and above intermediate mechanical knowledge. Not being able to lift the car on a hoist makes it even more challenging, what do you think, can it be a DIY?
Whats your take about LEMFÖRDER suspension parts?
@@mzee5533 I have tried their products, not a bad quality for the money.
A few years ago I replaced the torque struts or upper control arms on my CLK ,,it was a big job and I agree it can be done , but would be so much easier with the car up high on a lift.
Soon I will be replacing a front strut mount , the rubber has cracked inside it and the bolt is not in the centre of the fender hole,,it is harsh over bumps.
So I get to undo the strut and sway bar bolts again..
@@Leonardo555ZZZZ Yes, it is an uncomfortable job without a hoist, not necessarily difficult.
Easy, just get it done and don't be a stupid F, survival of the fittest if the car falls its meant to be
I replaced the control arms and anti-roll bar links on my 2012 C Class a couple of years ago, not a particularly difficult job and I saved around £500 UKP.
Good to hear... wow, that's a lot of money...
Local Mercedes dealer wants ~$1100 just for the parts, and $200/hour for labor. I'll save around $1,000, and that includes buying tools I didn't have. Parts cost me $205. Not OEM, but I'm sure they'll outlast the rest of the car ('07 CLK350 cabriolet)
Thank you for the knowledge brother
You are welcome 😊
Your mechanical skill may be even better than car repair shop💯! For control arm rubber bushing, do you regularly put oil or lubricant to keep from dry rotting? Or you don't lubricate it just like everyone else?
Thanks Brian, I think rubber and lubricant don't really get along. I have not seen much on owners manuals about keeping suspension parts lubricated and that might cause them to absorb more dust. I believe they should be kept clean as much as possible.
It is imperative after this operation to check the parallelism of the front axle.
The car should be aligned after
Did I replace the tie rods or hamper the steering adjustments?
👍
I admire your dedication to your old Merc's. I'm about to do the same job on my CLK. I'm not being critical, but wouldn't it have been wise to replace the anti-rollbar bushings whilst you were there? Keep up the good work. 👏🏽
Thanks Richard, you are 100% right, I actually have a kit of 10 suspension parts (including the stabilizer links, tie rods, and steering rack ends) but as I said in the beginning this is for road worthy, I now have 14 days from the failure of the RWC to fix the issues otherwise have to pay the fees again, so just wanted to focus on this. And this might happen to others in real life again that they would need to replace these 4 parts in rush. My focus was purely on time and feasibility of the project for DIYers like me. Looking at my other videos, I usually replace a series of parts while working in an area. Also in Australia, accessing the parts is not easy and usually time-consuming and requires better planning ahead.
Just a possible tip, I’m doing this job on a 209 clk 500, I checked the part diagram for away bar bushings and it wasn’t there. I went to my local Mercedes dealer and they told me the bushings are only available with a new sway bar. Can’t get them individually
@@BenzAddiction They actually test your car to see if it's roadworthy? That's odd. Is that in the US? Where I live in the midwestern US, as long as it rolls under its own power, you're good to go!
@@scotthiddleston8246 Australia has more strict RWC rules.
Are part fittings different for the clk w209 chassis that have sports suspension or not?
The control arms are the same, but different bolts are available (with notch) to allow camber/caster adjustment. The normal bolts would only fit in the middle of the hole, though.
Sway bar links and bolts are larger diameter on sports suspension cars ,,code 486.
instead of nutin meters i have a 2005 c230k what is the torque in lbs?
All you need to remember is that 1 Nm is equal to 0.7376 ft-lbs.
Isn't the stabiliser bar bracket bolt torque on the w209 25 Nm ?
Be careful if you did 40 Nm you could strip the threads in the subframe.
Hi Leonardo, Oh really? Thankfully didn't strip the thread. Watch a new video is coming up in 2 hours, you will like it 😉
@@BenzAddiction I like all your videos,
,I will.
@Leonardo555ZZZ Thanks mate :)
You gotta work on your camera and lighting game, my guy.. Did you measure the ride height before removing said parts? How does one know where and when to tighten..?
Hi, thanks for the feedback, I am working on my camera and lighting, yes I measured the height. But it is different for different cars.
You just have to replace them and take it for alignment period otherwise you’ll loose all your tires within a few driving hours. If you’re far away from an alignment shop rather use the old school tape measure until you get time for a proper alignment.
@@mzee5533That's my intention to get the wheels aligned ASAP.
Why people change the hole part and they don't just charge the rubbers
What about the ball joints?
@@BenzAddiction you mean the ball joint cannot be separate from the main part, just to make clear i am NOT A MECHANIC, i just watch my mechanic work on my car, once i changed similar parts on an Alfa Romeo 164 3 liter, and the ball joints were a smallish part of rubber, and also in the U.K there is a program called WHEELER DEALER and they fix cars
Tool to press in and out is almost $400...
*recommends not doing this at home*
*me who's already disassembled the car and put it back together but didn't follow the torque specs, just made everything tight asf* "oh.."
Thanks for the comment 👍