One note about calibration of the monitor. I recently did mine and plugged the usb connection of the calibration unit into a USB splitter junction box. I Completed the calibration, and my screen looked great. Then I saw a note in the instructions saying only plug the usb lead into the computer not a splitter box. So I did this and recalibrated again. Wow the screen changed again and so I recommend any one doing a calibration to plug the calibration unit lead directly into the computer not an extension splitter box.
Thank you. This is so interesting and exciting. I am looking at different printers, particularly, the pro 1000, to do prints of fine art paintings and drawings. This is definitely a few subjects that need to be studied.
I've enjoyed your presentations! Question, I've seen the examples for the print layout via Lightroom, Photoshop, and Capture 1 but nothing regarding ON1 Raw. Please advise if possible, thanks.
Fantastic information Joe... 'Looks like the most important first step on the road to happy printing. You are so generous with your expertise and information. Thank you!
Joe, I wish I would have watched this years ago before I got rid of my monitors and finally my Canon Pro-100. Extremely grateful for the time you spent making this video.
I printed on my new canon pro 100. And made the mistake not to calibrate my monitor. I learned so much from this video. Thank you! Can't wait to try again
Hello Sircan you help me fixing the collor s of my T60, I convert it to Pigment and I am having troube getting the reight and best setting..Pls what setting should I do ?
Now what? I set my brand new pro1200 a few days ago and have been unhappy with the few 5x7s as a learning curve. The Canon Selphy I bought months ago produces incredible prints without any prior knowledge about printing. Can I get a do over in my set up?
On the monitor calibration: by default monitors are too bright, and also way too blue. So monitor calibration is “the only way out” of the color inaccuracy maze!... Good point, Jose.
Hi Jose and subscribers. I have just started sublimation printing on cheap ET2750, BUT I want to do it to the maximum. What can I squeeze from this machine? I`m not on Facebook, but I would be grateful if you could share your testing pages in another way. Thank you for the videos. Excellent watching/learning
Jose, thanks a lot for the wonderful video! It really helps. I wonder where I can download the software that you mentioned in your other video about correcting the pro-10 b/w off tone issue.
Hi jose. How much of a difference does it make to have a good printer for little photoalbum pictures. I go to the local mall to get mine printed the printer is the size of a tardis a real old looking fuji. The photos i get dont look that great. I wondered if i top of the line printer would show a world of difference even at that small size
Thanks Jose. This is a great job! Maybe you have already responded somewhere else, but I am struggled trying to find. What about if the print of this test picture doesn’t look fine? With color casts; too light, too dark, irregular gradiations, adjacent squares looking the same, skin tones looking weird,...?
Then either something is not correct with your settings OR the printer is not working properly. Performing a nozzle check will speak volumes, Of course we are talking ALL OEM here both inks and papers.
I have a problem with printing colours. My Epson L850 is on 0 printing too blue photos and then when I change any number or on colour wheel never seen the best colour, my budget for reprinting is flying.
You mean the image editing softwares? I use Photoshop Lightroom and Qimage and I have lots of videos on how I edit just look him up during my playlist. TH-cam is full of editing videos as well.
Thanks Jose! Great video! Watched a few of your videos now and have found all of them very interesting! Today we received an xrite i1isis 2 but we are using a non canon matte 280gsm canvas and it’s kicking my ass! Fun to see your Jack mousepad at the end there though, my daughters love nightmare before Christmas :-)
Thank you Jose. I am new to the channel and I don't even have a printer yet. I'm trying to do a lot of research first and your videos have been invaluable. I'm leaning towards the pro 100, I just need to decide if it is worth it for only printing around 120-150 images per year.
I will have what I hope will become the "Go too" video for folks in your spot. It will pretty much cover everything you would have to know before yountake the plunge.
Hi Jose, I follow you and find your presentations very helpful. I have ONE question. I recently switched from Epson printers to Canon Pro 100 and am asking. When finished printing for the day should I leave the switch on? I believe turning it off and then the next day Turing it on uses ink to initialize it. I print usually daily. Thank you in advance. Deacon Frank Lukovits
I'm wondering the same thing. Can't find it on any of the liunks provided in the description, and any search for it result ind unrelated troubleshooting forum threads.
Thanks for a great video as usual! Setting up Pro-10 now on Mac. I know you don't use Mac but I thought I'll try asking you a question anyway since the principle is similar. After the nozzle check and print head alignment I'm ready to print the test image you spoke about it this video. I'm printing it using Photoshop and let the Printer Driver to manage the color. Now, I've got stuck in the printer driver setting - color matching section. After choosing the paper type (in my case it's Canon Pro-Lustre) I have options: Color Sync or Canon Color Matching (I will post the screen shots of these on your Facebook Group). What's the difference and which one to use? And if I use Color Sync - should I go for AUTO or manually choose the paper type profile?
Sorry but I am not sure about whether you would choose Color Sync or Canon Color Matching. I am sure some MAC user here will chime in with the correct answer.
Hi Jose--I'm puzzled with an issue I'm having with my TWO Pro-100 printers. I use both OEM and refilled cartridges with PC inks. After a while, each printer starts developing an issue with the gray and light gray: they either don't appear at all, or appear with lines. Either it's a Canon glitch--or more likely I'm making the same mistake with both printers. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong so I can, you know, STOP IT? I spoke with Canon "support" who just had me send pictures of the nozzle check prints and sent me on to their Upgrade department. Thanks in advance!
@@cheo1949 The download link on the page you now link to is broken. I managed to find it working here : jirvana.outbackphoto.com/printer_tests/PrinterEvaluationImage_V002.zip
Thank you so very much for great videos!! I just installed a PRO 1000, There is 2 drives one called Canon PRO 1000 XPS and Canon PRO 1000. To me thay look the same, with is best for use? Best Regards
Don't bother installing the XPS piggyback driver! Windows can not print to 16 bit anyway. The driver simply tried to make it. You will not see any difference between the Main Driver and the XPS one.
What is the name of the organization that we can download the test photo or the URL. Thanks and your channel is teaching me alot about photo printing. :)
The Organization is me. My Face Book Group. Did you look at my links like I suggested? Join the group then once approved go to FILES and download whatever you need there. Or just click here facebook.com/groups/1915547415436501/
You should always run a nozzle check before any important print job. You will instantly know if any of the color channels have developed problem which would physically damage a Canon printhead if you were to go ahead and print images before resolving the clogs.
@@cheo1949 I will print that one out tomorrow. I'm also looking into buying a monitor calibration tool. I see that X-rite is the way to go. Any specific one? I will also be buying the color targets to calibrate my camera. :)
Hey Jose, thank you SO much for making such helpful videos. I have printed the image and everything looks great except for my blacks and the blue. On the RBG gradient to the left the blue seems to lean more towards the purple side. Also, on the black step bar I cannot make out any difference 2-12 with my naked eye, it all looks like solid black to me and no squares. Got any suggestions?
Well I need to know what printer, what paper and what inks are you using and whether you are refilling or not and are you setting up the driver as I suggest for printing the standard image. Be aware that the top row of colors are completely out of gamut to most if not all printer. That is on purpose. Your view the print by back lighting and see if your dark steps on the ramp are really blocked. Did you click on BLACK POINT Compensation in the printer driver?
hi! dear Jose. Please guide me. Currently using canon PRO-10 /Breathing Colors paper/Precision colors inks. MIKE kindly customize me the ICC profiles. If i buy a NEW canon, do i need NEW "icc profiles" just because its a newest model printer? many thanksssss, Gaby
i still don't know! I just realized that my PRO-10 creates a LOT of banding at my DARK color prints. I ALREADY did the 1) Cleaning 2)Deep cleaning/nozzles 3)plate cleaning 4) roller cleaning and the 5)head alignment and STILL the banding. I havent done the manual head alignment, NO idea how and dont want to ruin it. From the NEW canons, can you enlighten me whats my BEST option using Precision colors inks? Thanks Jose! i do appreciate your time . Gaby
hi!!! ALREADY did that (nozzles and were Ok) . Still creating banding. I think this shall go to the service center (min 7working days, wuaaa) . Thats why im considering to buy a new one and leave this one as a backup IF still possible . Its sooo frustrating, thanks for your time and guideness
Dear Jose, i am using ICC profiles BREATHING COLORS/LUSTER paper with OEM inks from Mike. Since Precision Colors has the NEW Pixma Pro-10 "Signature Edition INKS" , do i need to get NEW iccs using this NEW ink? or my older Inkset ICCS will work decently ? Thank you
Yes. You will have to adjust your work environment to a lower working illumination as well. I just have one 60w bulb on the ceiling. It's difficult at first but you get used to it.
Hi ,this is rait for photographer but for me ,I do not understand nothing ,all I want to know to clean heads my printer print just fine B/W but not photo . I did clean my heads but still color is not coming out .
Since there are about 100 plus printers and models there is no way for me to be able to give you direct info. If you are using Original cartridges and be printing at least every other day you would not have clogs. If you are using 3rd party carts then that is the problem. Do cleaning cycles and nozzle checks.
@@cheo1949 no I use Canon only ,I had years ago bad experience with knock off ink .my canon is Pixma MG5320 ,yes it was given to me and like you said he let it stand and that was problem then I clean heads with 1/1 alcohol,water ,that did the trick ,I printed lot of pictures,and then bub nothing come out ,I use Photo Paper Plus Glossy II,.love your videos,I use to be in Photography ,I have canon Ae 1 , nikon F 2 and my feverate Konica all are 35 mil .Lathly I have lot of problems with newer canon ,I have old Pixma MP 210 ,works beautiful but cant hook up with my laptop I use it for my desk top winXP . then I got Canon Pixma TS600 was ok for 2 years then little white weal that pushes cartridge,fell off ,it would cost me more to fix it . so now if I cant do this one to work I have to buy new one . hey thanks so much for responding,I love the way you seid Caching ! is rite .
Can I make a reference chart with sublimation ink? I work at the moment exclusively with sublimation inks but I would like to calibrate both my printer and monitor.
Just come across this - very helpful. Here's my (dumb) question: After printing the image, do you then use the monitor calibration to scan the image first and then use those colors to calibrate the monitor, or do you just calibrate the monitor ? If I do the latter and the monitor does still not 'match' the print, how do I synchronize them so they do match ?
I think you're totally confused. Print the standard image. Let the driver control color. Use a paper designed for the printer model you are using and choose that paper in the drop-down menu. The resulting print assuming your printer is working correctly should be near-perfect. Now go back to your monitor that is still displaying that same image and using your calibration software and your calibrator recalibrate it so that the resulting display of that image matches as close as possible your print. It it not going to be one hundred percent. That's impossible to achieve and I think that's what people are losing sleep over not realizing that they're never going to be a 100% match. Just close enough IS good enough. You want brightness to match as close as possible and color balance. Keep your mind monitors will always display images more brilliant than you see on paper. Photo prints are always look duller then what the monitor shows.
@@cheo1949 I really appreciate your response and please give the naivety of my question - complete newly he - very willing to learn and exactly your focus (printer still in box - I want to do this right). If I may, another quick question: you are saying that once I run the monitor calibration I then have to eye-ball it as best as possible and make manual adjustments if, to my eye, the monitor does not match the print. That would seem to undermine the value fo the calibration tool - I appreciate it will probably help me a lot to get me to ;better than out of the box' - but to then rely on my subjective eye seem to potentially undermine the whole process/value of the calibration tool. I wonder what is the net difference between my eye vs the calibration tool ?
NO not MANUAL adjustments on ly through the Calibration Software of the calibration instrument you are using. The calibration is going to do several things. It's going to correct ANY non linear response of your R G and B pixels of your monitor. So red will always be true from darkest to lightest. No change in hue. Same for Green and Blue. You can not do that visually or manually. Contrast will be fixed to perfect and brightness either up or down will be adjusted till it matches your standard image print. The most important part is to get your monitors white balance to a perfectly and linearly neutral condition as well. You can only do that accurately with a Calibrator. You calibrate and re calibrate until it is as close as you can get it to be to match your printed standard which obviously also needs to be perfect in density and color balance and neutrality.
To the gods of electromagnetic light I have a soft proofing conundrum, are you sitting comfortably? Now let me begin. Out of gamut was a best guess way back in the 90s that PS provided people so that they could visualise and view, the unprintable/non viewable Hues. (Both Photoshop and modern printers have evolved greatly since 1998 I believe and its introduction). With this best guess named gamut warning you could attempt adjustment the work to keep it as faithful as possible to the original. I believe that this method is legacy and was superseded by the more accuracy and modern ICC profiles. These profiles are specific to the printer and its relationship to the medium selected. So we should be adjusting the ICC rendered image and ignoring out of gamut witch (pun intended) is legacy and inaccurate. From my study we should not conflate the two. This is not a criticisms of any ones ideas or work flow I am just looking for knowledge and I am always happy with been proven wrong after all every day is a school day. If we use ICC and Gamut we are mistakenly combining two methods of image adjustment that should/must not be conflated. Lets say for the sake of this diatribe/conversation that all variables are fixed. For a moment exclude all the possible nuances and variations, Calibration, lumen output, kelvin on the monitor matches the kelvin output of your controlled viewing environment etc. Then the only variable which can affect the output is the ICC profile. Lets say this is our hypothetical fact to stop all the yes but replies. Keep with my mindless wanderings please. Now look at this situation in a practical way. If when I apply the ICC profile the profile provided by the wonder nerds who work on the specific printer and rock it to sleep every evening, the nerds who know which colour wire to cut to stop the end of time then the results displayed are as good as it can be for that set up. Give or take +/- a pinch of salt in the devils eye. Our image and request has pushed the printer to its limits with the added throttling of the chosen medium gloss paper acrylic glass etc. The algorithms have metamorphosed the brightest hues corralled all colour possibility into the new profile so that 100% red is still 100% red but in a different algorithm. In our idiotic and pretend world we can do know more to this perfectly colour calibrated image. We are looking at the best that that printer can do, with the request given a Tiff file in adobe RGB. Now let us say that we require to tweak this image as we know that transmissive light from the monitor will always be different to the reflective light of a print (we are back in the real world now) then these gentle adjustments should only be applied to the ICC profile to attempt to match the original. If we start toggling off/on the legacy and woefully judgemental and inaccurate Gamut warning in Photoshop CC then we are at serious risk of over egging the pudding. The ICC has brought the colour gamut in check already so why would there still be out of gamut colours when we toggle the gamut warning on and off. The only reason is its an old left over legacy and it should never be used in combination with ICC profiling. Does anyone else feel my pain or am I alone in this padded cell? The long and short of it is the ICC profile has brought all hue within gamut already so a gamut check Is not required. Now I am just a muppet on a string so if anyone can help me dance to a better tune then I am most ready if you are asking.
One note about calibration of the monitor. I recently did mine and plugged the usb connection of the calibration unit into a USB splitter junction box. I Completed the calibration, and my screen looked great. Then I saw a note in the instructions saying only plug the usb lead into the computer not a splitter box. So I did this and recalibrated again. Wow the screen changed again and so I recommend any one doing a calibration to plug the calibration unit lead directly into the computer not an extension splitter box.
Thank you. This is so interesting and exciting. I am looking at different printers, particularly, the pro 1000, to do prints of fine art paintings and drawings. This is definitely a few subjects that need to be studied.
Thank you. I’m using all of your fundamentals .
I've enjoyed your presentations! Question, I've seen the examples for the print layout via Lightroom, Photoshop, and Capture 1 but nothing regarding ON1 Raw. Please advise if possible, thanks.
Fantastic information Joe... 'Looks like the most important first step on the road to happy printing. You are so generous with your expertise and information. Thank you!
Thank You.
Worked like a charm. Thank You! Saved me $300.
Glad it helped!
Joe, I wish I would have watched this years ago before I got rid of my monitors and finally my Canon Pro-100. Extremely grateful for the time you spent making this video.
I can well believe you have so many subscribed. You are fantastic at explaining what I consider a total minefield called Printing
I printed on my new canon pro 100. And made the mistake not to calibrate my monitor. I learned so much from this video. Thank you! Can't wait to try again
Lots of things you need to nail down when it comes to color management.
Hello Sircan you help me fixing the collor s of my T60, I convert it to Pigment and I am having troube getting the reight and best setting..Pls what setting should I do ?
Now what? I set my brand new pro1200 a few days ago and have been unhappy with the few 5x7s as a learning curve. The Canon Selphy I bought months ago produces incredible prints without any prior knowledge about printing. Can I get a do over in my set up?
On the monitor calibration: by default monitors are too bright, and also way too blue.
So monitor calibration is “the only way out” of the color inaccuracy maze!...
Good point, Jose.
Did the color temp of the video jump a notch warmer at 24:40? LOL!
The monitor is calibrated a 100%... and boom! Saw that!... :-)
Probably. The video once edited to remove my flubs is made up of dozens of cuts. So. Probably.
Hi Jose and subscribers.
I have just started sublimation printing on cheap ET2750, BUT I want to do it to the maximum. What can I squeeze from this machine?
I`m not on Facebook, but I would be grateful if you could share your testing pages in another way.
Thank you for the videos. Excellent watching/learning
Good stuff! Any ideas on how to clean the waste ink absorbers on a Cannon MX962 printer?? Thanks!
you let me know what to except when I purchase the canon pro 100 thanx much
Expect tops.
GREAT CHANEL...THANK YOU FOR SOUND ADVICE, INFORMATION, AND OPINIONS.
Thank you.
where can you download that file to calibrate my monitor and printer.
Jose, thanks a lot for the wonderful video! It really helps. I wonder where I can download the software that you mentioned in your other video about correcting the pro-10 b/w off tone issue.
Since I am not sure what software I mentioned I am not sure. Was it Print Studio Pro? If so you get that from the Canon Driver support site.
Thanks Jose- a good comprehensive lesson👍
Thank you Tony.
Hi jose.
How much of a difference does it make to have a good printer for little photoalbum pictures.
I go to the local mall to get mine printed the printer is the size of a tardis a real old looking fuji.
The photos i get dont look that great. I wondered if i top of the line printer would show a world of difference even at that small size
I use the histogram as a Guide, because I have a laptop and It works good when I balance the blacks and white without clipping
Perfect choice!
Thanks Jose. This is a great job!
Maybe you have already responded somewhere else, but I am struggled trying to find. What about if the print of this test picture doesn’t look fine? With color casts; too light, too dark, irregular gradiations, adjacent squares looking the same, skin tones looking weird,...?
Then either something is not correct with your settings OR the printer is not working properly. Performing a nozzle check will speak volumes, Of course we are talking ALL OEM here both inks and papers.
Gotta profile your monitor.
help with canon ip110 35/36
I have a problem with printing colours.
My Epson L850 is on 0 printing too blue photos and then when I change any number or on colour wheel never seen the best colour, my budget for reprinting is flying.
THANKS A LOT FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE!!!! just bought a pro 100s and hopefully following all your tips I will be success ; ) .
Awesome.
@@cheo1949 Have you got any video tutorial related to the software you use on your computer before printing them out?
Thanks
Javier
You mean the image editing softwares? I use Photoshop Lightroom and Qimage and I have lots of videos on how I edit just look him up during my playlist. TH-cam is full of editing videos as well.
@@cheo1949 im using Lr cc classic.what i have no clue is with the setting i need to apply right before printing.
Thanks Jose! Great video! Watched a few of your videos now and have found all of them very interesting! Today we received an xrite i1isis 2 but we are using a non canon matte 280gsm canvas and it’s kicking my ass! Fun to see your Jack mousepad at the end there though, my daughters love nightmare before Christmas :-)
Thank you Jose. I am new to the channel and I don't even have a printer yet. I'm trying to do a lot of research first and your videos have been invaluable. I'm leaning towards the pro 100, I just need to decide if it is worth it for only printing around 120-150 images per year.
I will have what I hope will become the "Go too" video for folks in your spot. It will pretty much cover everything you would have to know before yountake the plunge.
Hi Jose, I follow you and find your presentations very helpful. I have ONE question. I recently switched from Epson printers to Canon Pro 100 and am asking. When finished printing for the day should I leave the switch on? I believe turning it off and then the next day Turing it on uses ink to initialize it. I print usually daily.
Thank you in advance. Deacon Frank Lukovits
Always on. Set the Power options to DISABLE auto off.
hi guys where can I get the image? thanks :)
I'm wondering the same thing. Can't find it on any of the liunks provided in the description, and any search for it result ind unrelated troubleshooting forum threads.
Thanks for a great video as usual! Setting up Pro-10 now on Mac. I know you don't use Mac but I thought I'll try asking you a question anyway since the principle is similar. After the nozzle check and print head alignment I'm ready to print the test image you spoke about it this video. I'm printing it using Photoshop and let the Printer Driver to manage the color. Now, I've got stuck in the printer driver setting - color matching section. After choosing the paper type (in my case it's Canon Pro-Lustre) I have options: Color Sync or Canon Color Matching (I will post the screen shots of these on your Facebook Group). What's the difference and which one to use? And if I use Color Sync - should I go for AUTO or manually choose the paper type profile?
Sorry but I am not sure about whether you would choose Color Sync or Canon Color Matching. I am sure some MAC user here will chime in with the correct answer.
Hi Jose--I'm puzzled with an issue I'm having with my TWO Pro-100 printers. I use both OEM and refilled cartridges with PC inks. After a while, each printer starts developing an issue with the gray and light gray: they either don't appear at all, or appear with lines. Either it's a Canon glitch--or more likely I'm making the same mistake with both printers. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong so I can, you know, STOP IT? I spoke with Canon "support" who just had me send pictures of the nozzle check prints and sent me on to their Upgrade department. Thanks in advance!
Jose, how can I get the test photo you showed in this video?
Thanks for your programs.
There is a link on my new videos in the descriptions.
@@cheo1949 The download link on the page you now link to is broken. I managed to find it working here : jirvana.outbackphoto.com/printer_tests/PrinterEvaluationImage_V002.zip
@@Ikrananka Thank you!
@@Ikrananka Cheers!
Jose where do you get your polyester shirts and what brand are they?
From my Amazon Affiliate Site www.amazon.com/shop/joserodriguez JERZEES 21MR - Sport Performance Short Sleeve T-Shirt
do you have a website instead of Facebook to down this file? are you on Instagram?
Thank you so very much for great videos!! I just installed a PRO 1000, There is 2 drives one called Canon PRO 1000 XPS and Canon PRO 1000.
To me thay look the same, with is best for use?
Best Regards
Don't bother installing the XPS piggyback driver! Windows can not print to 16 bit anyway. The driver simply tried to make it. You will not see any difference between the Main Driver and the XPS one.
I hate the Canon Pixma pro 10s on your advice. I have wasted £90 worth of ink without the printer printing anything!
What is the name of the organization that we can download the test photo or the URL. Thanks and your channel is teaching me alot about photo printing. :)
The Organization is me. My Face Book Group. Did you look at my links like I suggested? Join the group then once approved go to FILES and download whatever you need there.
Or just click here facebook.com/groups/1915547415436501/
Jose Rodriguez I just did. Thanks again!
Or www.jirvana.com/printer_tests/PrinterEvaluationImage_V002.zip
My printer didn't ask me to do this.
I've been doing prints and they look phenomenal! Should I do this nozzle check anyhow?
You should always run a nozzle check before any important print job. You will instantly know if any of the color channels have developed problem which would physically damage a Canon printhead if you were to go ahead and print images before resolving the clogs.
@@cheo1949 Once again, thank you! :) May you have a colorful day!
And also a monochrome one.
@@cheo1949 I will print that one out tomorrow. I'm also looking into buying a monitor calibration tool. I see that X-rite is the way to go.
Any specific one?
I will also be buying the color targets to calibrate my camera. :)
@@cheo1949 Just saw one of your video's, and you recommend color money display. :) Thanks again, and have a blessed night.
GREAT VEDIO'S CABALLERO, KEEP UP THE SPLENDID WORK.
Gracias amigo!
Hey Jose, thank you SO much for making such helpful videos. I have printed the image and everything looks great except for my blacks and the blue. On the RBG gradient to the left the blue seems to lean more towards the purple side. Also, on the black step bar I cannot make out any difference 2-12 with my naked eye, it all looks like solid black to me and no squares. Got any suggestions?
Well I need to know what printer, what paper and what inks are you using and whether you are refilling or not and are you setting up the driver as I suggest for printing the standard image. Be aware that the top row of colors are completely out of gamut to most if not all printer. That is on purpose. Your view the print by back lighting and see if your dark steps on the ramp are really blocked. Did you click on BLACK POINT Compensation in the printer driver?
Very good sir
Thanks!
hi! dear Jose. Please guide me. Currently using canon PRO-10 /Breathing Colors paper/Precision colors inks. MIKE kindly customize me the ICC profiles. If i buy a NEW canon, do i need NEW "icc profiles" just because its a newest model printer? many thanksssss, Gaby
Yes. Every different Model requires custom profiles. What are you upgrading to?
i still don't know! I just realized that my PRO-10 creates a LOT of banding at my DARK color prints. I ALREADY did the 1) Cleaning 2)Deep cleaning/nozzles 3)plate cleaning 4) roller cleaning and the 5)head alignment and STILL the banding. I havent done the manual head alignment, NO idea how and dont want to ruin it.
From the NEW canons, can you enlighten me whats my BEST option using Precision colors inks?
Thanks Jose! i do appreciate your time . Gaby
hi!!! ALREADY did that (nozzles and were Ok) . Still creating banding. I think this shall go to the service center (min 7working days, wuaaa) . Thats why im considering to buy a new one and leave this one as a backup IF still possible . Its sooo frustrating, thanks for your time and guideness
Dear Jose, i am using ICC profiles BREATHING COLORS/LUSTER paper with OEM inks from Mike. Since Precision Colors has the NEW Pixma Pro-10 "Signature Edition INKS" , do i need to get NEW iccs using this NEW ink? or my older Inkset ICCS will work decently ? Thank you
Hi Jose! How can I have your assistance? I have much more to learn with my printers
Continue watching my videos. Look at my playlists for subjects you want to concentrate on.
@@cheo1949 is it forbidden to talk to you privately ? if not here's my mail box : bintujustin@gmail.com
Great sound, better than the older microphone
I never changed it! This is the same setup. I am just finally getting my recording settings and post processing right.
hello from 2020 friend. great show thanks for the info
Thank you!
You mentioned adjusting your brightness: Having your monitor between 80-100 candela makes your prints look nice.
Yes. You will have to adjust your work environment to a lower working illumination as well. I just have one 60w bulb on the ceiling. It's difficult at first but you get used to it.
Hi ,this is rait for photographer but for me ,I do not understand nothing ,all I want to know to clean heads my printer print just fine B/W but not photo . I did clean my heads but still color is not coming out .
Since there are about 100 plus printers and models there is no way for me to be able to give you direct info. If you are using Original cartridges and be printing at least every other day you would not have clogs. If you are using 3rd party carts then that is the problem. Do cleaning cycles and nozzle checks.
@@cheo1949 no I use Canon only ,I had years ago bad experience with knock off ink .my canon is Pixma MG5320 ,yes it was given to me and like you said he let it stand and that was problem then I clean heads with 1/1 alcohol,water ,that did the trick ,I printed lot of pictures,and then bub nothing come out ,I use Photo Paper Plus Glossy II,.love your videos,I use to be in Photography ,I have canon Ae 1 , nikon F 2 and my feverate Konica all are 35 mil .Lathly I have lot of problems with newer canon ,I have old Pixma MP 210 ,works beautiful but cant hook up with my laptop I use it for my desk top winXP . then I got Canon Pixma TS600 was ok for 2 years then little white weal that pushes cartridge,fell off ,it would cost me more to fix it .
so now if I cant do this one to work I have to buy new one .
hey thanks so much for responding,I love the way you seid Caching ! is rite .
Jose, is there another place that I can download the test print?, I am not a facebook user.
Similar ones can be found here www.northlight-images.co.uk/printer-test-images/
Thanks
Can I make a reference chart with sublimation ink? I work at the moment exclusively with sublimation inks but I would like to calibrate both my printer and monitor.
Just come across this - very helpful. Here's my (dumb) question: After printing the image, do you then use the monitor calibration to scan the image first and then use those colors to calibrate the monitor, or do you just calibrate the monitor ? If I do the latter and the monitor does still not 'match' the print, how do I synchronize them so they do match ?
I think you're totally confused. Print the standard image. Let the driver control color. Use a paper designed for the printer model you are using and choose that paper in the drop-down menu. The resulting print assuming your printer is working correctly should be near-perfect. Now go back to your monitor that is still displaying that same image and using your calibration software and your calibrator recalibrate it so that the resulting display of that image matches as close as possible your print. It it not going to be one hundred percent. That's impossible to achieve and I think that's what people are losing sleep over not realizing that they're never going to be a 100% match. Just close enough IS good enough. You want brightness to match as close as possible and color balance. Keep your mind monitors will always display images more brilliant than you see on paper. Photo prints are always look duller then what the monitor shows.
@@cheo1949 I really appreciate your response and please give the naivety of my question - complete newly he - very willing to learn and exactly your focus (printer still in box - I want to do this right). If I may, another quick question: you are saying that once I run the monitor calibration I then have to eye-ball it as best as possible and make manual adjustments if, to my eye, the monitor does not match the print. That would seem to undermine the value fo the calibration tool - I appreciate it will probably help me a lot to get me to ;better than out of the box' - but to then rely on my subjective eye seem to potentially undermine the whole process/value of the calibration tool. I wonder what is the net difference between my eye vs the calibration tool ?
NO not MANUAL adjustments on ly through the Calibration Software of the calibration instrument you are using. The calibration is going to do several things. It's going to correct ANY non linear response of your R G and B pixels of your monitor. So red will always be true from darkest to lightest. No change in hue. Same for Green and Blue. You can not do that visually or manually. Contrast will be fixed to perfect and brightness either up or down will be adjusted till it matches your standard image print. The most important part is to get your monitors white balance to a perfectly and linearly neutral condition as well. You can only do that accurately with a Calibrator.
You calibrate and re calibrate until it is as close as you can get it to be to match your printed standard which obviously also needs to be perfect in density and color balance and neutrality.
@@cheo1949 Thank you very much for taking the time to respond - it's much appreciated Sir.
To the gods of electromagnetic light I have a soft proofing conundrum, are you sitting comfortably? Now let me begin.
Out of gamut was a best guess way back in the 90s that PS provided people so that they could visualise and view, the unprintable/non viewable Hues. (Both Photoshop and modern printers have evolved greatly since 1998 I believe and its introduction). With this best guess named gamut warning you could attempt adjustment the work to keep it as faithful as possible to the original. I believe that this method is legacy and was superseded by the more accuracy and modern ICC profiles. These profiles are specific to the printer and its relationship to the medium selected. So we should be adjusting the ICC rendered image and ignoring out of gamut witch (pun intended) is legacy and inaccurate. From my study we should not conflate the two. This is not a criticisms of any ones ideas or work flow I am just looking for knowledge and I am always happy with been proven wrong after all every day is a school day. If we use ICC and Gamut we are mistakenly combining two methods of image adjustment that should/must not be conflated. Lets say for the sake of this diatribe/conversation that all variables are fixed. For a moment exclude all the possible nuances and variations, Calibration, lumen output, kelvin on the monitor matches the kelvin output of your controlled viewing environment etc. Then the only variable which can affect the output is the ICC profile. Lets say this is our hypothetical fact to stop all the yes but replies. Keep with my mindless wanderings please.
Now look at this situation in a practical way. If when I apply the ICC profile the profile provided by the wonder nerds who work on the specific printer and rock it to sleep every evening, the nerds who know which colour wire to cut to stop the end of time then the results displayed are as good as it can be for that set up. Give or take +/- a pinch of salt in the devils eye. Our image and request has pushed the printer to its limits with the added throttling of the chosen medium gloss paper acrylic glass etc. The algorithms have metamorphosed the brightest hues corralled all colour possibility into the new profile so that 100% red is still 100% red but in a different algorithm. In our idiotic and pretend world we can do know more to this perfectly colour calibrated image. We are looking at the best that that printer can do, with the request given a Tiff file in adobe RGB. Now let us say that we require to tweak this image as we know that transmissive light from the monitor will always be different to the reflective light of a print (we are back in the real world now) then these gentle adjustments should only be applied to the ICC profile to attempt to match the original. If we start toggling off/on the legacy and woefully judgemental and inaccurate Gamut warning in Photoshop CC then we are at serious risk of over egging the pudding. The ICC has brought the colour gamut in check already so why would there still be out of gamut colours when we toggle the gamut warning on and off. The only reason is its an old left over legacy and it should never be used in combination with ICC profiling.
Does anyone else feel my pain or am I alone in this padded cell? The long and short of it is the ICC profile has brought all hue within gamut already so a gamut check Is not required. Now I am just a muppet on a string so if anyone can help me dance to a better tune then I am most ready if you are asking.
🎊🎈🎉 16,000 🎉🎈🎊
I haven't looked yet! Did we make it?
Jose Rodriguez Passed it now on the way to 17,000 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
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The color of this video changes at 24:40
Omg!!!
Thanksgiving?!
Michael Sanchez thinking of holiday's ahead of time lol?
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Huh????