Regarding the fishing wire. What are your thoughts on doing the top wire on one side, going through the other side and go back on the other side of the wax. You'd end up with two strings on both sides and I think that would be sufficient. And save you 50% of the time by doing both sides in a different manner.
I do that now. At first I was following what I had seen other people do, but thought it was a waste to do four nails when you can do two, and it is alot faster. It is a little more difficult to get the string tight sometimes, but not enough to double the work. Agree with the tip.
If I recall, it is either 60 or 80. I am in no way an expert on this - this is the only thing I have ever used that for. When I started, I just tested it until it was about the right pressure - enough to go in, but not too strong. I purchased the least expensive staple gun at Harbor Freight.
Yes. There is both wax and plastic (wax coated typically) foundation. Sometimes the bees don't like the plastics. Some beekeepers use nothing other than plastic. I haven't used plastic. Over time, chemicals build up in the honeycomb wax so it is best to remove wax once it gets 3-5 years old and let the bees replace it with new wax.
I am entering my 7th year of beekeeping now - I don't recall how many years ago I made that video. I have never had an issue with either the fishing line holding the frames in, or the bees chewing through them. Occasionally, the bees will not build comb over the lines, but not very often. I use the fishing line for every frame in my supers, otherwise, the comb will spin right out in the extractor. I use fishing line for most of my deeps, although if you are careful (when you inspect the frames and how you handle and turn them) you would probably be fine without it. I find the line helps with starting the foundation straight at the beginning, so I either go foundation with fishing line, or no foundation frames. No foundation can give the bees the opportunity to make wonky or even perpendicular comb. They are creative :) Lots of people use wax foundation. I have found that sometimes the bees don't like it and won't build on it. These days I sell most of my swarms to a commercial beekeeper and he provides plastic foundation for me to use. Several times a year, one of my swarms just won't build on a plastic foundation (I catch 10-20 a year).
@@BrookHillHoneyMrGsHoneybees hey thanks for your info , I’ve tried fishing lines last month and now I have good developed comb on it , it’s easy to put inside the frame and looks clean. Recently I’ve used half foundation sheet with fishing line and that too turns out very different. Conclusion is I can replace steel wire with fishing line anytime of the day.
I am curious if you think that this support would still be necessary if you used a manual extractor as opposed to the electric one I have seen in your other videos?
For the deep frames, we don't put those in the extractor, so technically you don't need any support. What we find is when we are working with the bees and the comb is fresh and a warm day, the comb will actually slip and get wonky. On the honey frame, whether you have a manual extractor or an electric extractor, I think the centrifugal force would rip out the comb, because you have to get it going fast enough to throw the honey out. You could try it and see what happens? After a few years, the comb hardens quite a bit, so it would only be the first year or two where you would be vulnerable.
Both. I assuming you are asking about the wiring? Technically you don't have to wire deep frames unless you plan to harvest honey from them. We found when working with deep frames during inspections on warm days, the honey can sag, so we give it extra support.
We purchase it from a bee supply house. You can make it, but it is a bit tricky, I have seen it where someone uses a crock pot, heats the clean wax up, then dips a board similar in size to the frame several times until it is thick enough, lets it cool and then takes it off of the board and you have a frame foundation that you can put on your wood. I haven't tried to do that yet. I have only used purchased wax foundation.
You can use the wax foundation without a wire. In fact, you can probably only use 1/2 or 1/3 of a sheet to just get the bees started in the right direction.
@@BrookHillHoneyMrGsHoneybees without wax foundation new honey combs break down while extraction ,I just install a wire in frames then I solder wax foundation but it's takes much time. That's why I'm interested in wax foundation like your.
Great Job! A big high five on working with the tools! Nice video well presented. Keep up the great work!
New to your channel loving your content just suprised you don't have more subscribers
Regarding the fishing wire. What are your thoughts on doing the top wire on one side, going through the other side and go back on the other side of the wax. You'd end up with two strings on both sides and I think that would be sufficient. And save you 50% of the time by doing both sides in a different manner.
I do that now. At first I was following what I had seen other people do, but thought it was a waste to do four nails when you can do two, and it is alot faster. It is a little more difficult to get the string tight sometimes, but not enough to double the work. Agree with the tip.
What PSI do you have your air stapler set at so that the staple goes all the way in without blasting through the wood?
If I recall, it is either 60 or 80. I am in no way an expert on this - this is the only thing I have ever used that for. When I started, I just tested it until it was about the right pressure - enough to go in, but not too strong. I purchased the least expensive staple gun at Harbor Freight.
Thank you so much. That was amazing!!
Thank you very much for sharing. Can the foundation be made from plastic instead of wax because it can stay as foundation stronger than wax does?
Yes. There is both wax and plastic (wax coated typically) foundation. Sometimes the bees don't like the plastics. Some beekeepers use nothing other than plastic. I haven't used plastic. Over time, chemicals build up in the honeycomb wax so it is best to remove wax once it gets 3-5 years old and let the bees replace it with new wax.
Hey how was the response of bees by fishing line? Had they not chew through it?
I am entering my 7th year of beekeeping now - I don't recall how many years ago I made that video. I have never had an issue with either the fishing line holding the frames in, or the bees chewing through them. Occasionally, the bees will not build comb over the lines, but not very often. I use the fishing line for every frame in my supers, otherwise, the comb will spin right out in the extractor. I use fishing line for most of my deeps, although if you are careful (when you inspect the frames and how you handle and turn them) you would probably be fine without it. I find the line helps with starting the foundation straight at the beginning, so I either go foundation with fishing line, or no foundation frames. No foundation can give the bees the opportunity to make wonky or even perpendicular comb. They are creative :) Lots of people use wax foundation. I have found that sometimes the bees don't like it and won't build on it. These days I sell most of my swarms to a commercial beekeeper and he provides plastic foundation for me to use. Several times a year, one of my swarms just won't build on a plastic foundation (I catch 10-20 a year).
@@BrookHillHoneyMrGsHoneybees hey thanks for your info , I’ve tried fishing lines last month and now I have good developed comb on it , it’s easy to put inside the frame and looks clean. Recently I’ve used half foundation sheet with fishing line and that too turns out very different.
Conclusion is I can replace steel wire with fishing line anytime of the day.
I am curious if you think that this support would still be necessary if you used a manual extractor as opposed to the electric one I have seen in your other videos?
For the deep frames, we don't put those in the extractor, so technically you don't need any support. What we find is when we are working with the bees and the comb is fresh and a warm day, the comb will actually slip and get wonky.
On the honey frame, whether you have a manual extractor or an electric extractor, I think the centrifugal force would rip out the comb, because you have to get it going fast enough to throw the honey out. You could try it and see what happens? After a few years, the comb hardens quite a bit, so it would only be the first year or two where you would be vulnerable.
Brook Hill Honey - Mr. G's Honeybees thank you for the information and the reply! Really enjoy the channel.
Thank you so much for your everything, great video
Good information
do you do that on both sides or just one?
Both. I assuming you are asking about the wiring? Technically you don't have to wire deep frames unless you plan to harvest honey from them. We found when working with deep frames during inspections on warm days, the honey can sag, so we give it extra support.
how you made this wax foundation?
We purchase it from a bee supply house. You can make it, but it is a bit tricky, I have seen it where someone uses a crock pot, heats the clean wax up, then dips a board similar in size to the frame several times until it is thick enough, lets it cool and then takes it off of the board and you have a frame foundation that you can put on your wood. I haven't tried to do that yet. I have only used purchased wax foundation.
@@BrookHillHoneyMrGsHoneybees thanks for the answer! There is no those wax foundation in store (in Ukraine) only without a wire .
You can use the wax foundation without a wire. In fact, you can probably only use 1/2 or 1/3 of a sheet to just get the bees started in the right direction.
@@BrookHillHoneyMrGsHoneybees without wax foundation new honey combs break down while extraction ,I just install a wire in frames then I solder wax foundation but it's takes much time.
That's why I'm interested in wax foundation like your.