I bought the car in bad shape so never really drove it before the restoration so I cannot compare how it handled before the drop. All I can say is that the car handles very well now but I performed the drop to lower the stance more than I was concerned about handling. The only good news I can add is that you can always reverse a shelby drop by simply putting the upper control arm back into the origional holes.
I am curious as I might need to lower it further. Did you simply use a cut off wheel to angle cut out 1 inch?? I was thinking that might be an option as opposed to ordering springs randomly ..I would love to get the wheels inside the fenders to get a lower stance. I am hoping to put widest tires all around not just wider in back
Yes I use a cut off wheel, but as I remember it half a inch on the spring give inch on the car .The coile on the spring is the same all the way, so it do not become more stiff by take som thing out
@@karstensetholsen5286 Ah. makes sense that as you remove material the spring will both shorten BUT will also collapse further considering some of the "spring" is removed. Good point , I will keep that in mind
When I lowered my control arms 25 years ago, the specs was 1” on 65-66 and 2” on 67-68. I mounted a kit with plates and wedge kit on my 67. What a difference it made!
The Shelby drop changes the geometry for better handling but it also lowers the front about a half inch you stated. I have 68 coupe that I want to do this to but i also want to lower the front end a bit more. Will 1 inch drop springs do the trick? Also I see people putting shims in for camber . Can you please tell me if doing the drop with the oneinch drop springs is all i need to complete this task ? I don’t need new control arms or wedge plates? Thank you
So yes, 1 inch drop springs are shorter than OEM springs BUT be aware that your current springs will be a little saggy as they are 50 years old so brand new 1 inch drop springs may not give you another inch from where you are now but WILL be lower. As per your second question I had found an article that as long as you are 1 inch or less drop and are NOT on the race track you are fine with out shims etc. But with the drop as well as heavy cornering the suspension may take a ball joint to max. Be carful swapping springs, make sure you get a proper spring compressor.
Great observations, and thought process. Since I'm OCD, I'm concerned that your clock never changed time.... Unless you can freeze time... If so I need to know how.
Ah. That is a thermometer plus humidity plus time. I do not have batteries in the clock considering I have another clock on the wall...which is also wrong
Great question, i have a link to a great sire on what the specs or changes to alignment are for the Shelby drop hopefully they can use this info. www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324
@@68mustangrestoration34 thanks for that great info. In dealing with the possible ball joint bind when corning hard, here is the fix for that. This will eliminate the binding on the ball joint.www.cjponyparts.com/ridetech-ball-joint-wedge-plate-streetgrip-3-hole-pair-1965-1970/p/12109520/
Good video. I like how you exposed where the work is being done to give a great visual of the procedure. I have a question, you mention the new holes not only move down, but they also move forward. Wouldn't moving the upper control arm move your caster towards the negative direction? I have on order a Shelby drop template and it has the new lower holes towards the back giving you positive caster. BTW, mine is a 66 not 68, so maybe the difference between the years is what's not clear to me.
Thank you for your kind words, and you are 100% correct, if you pause my video at 3:30 the template for 65 -66 moves the lower holes back to keep the caster the same, with 67 68 Shelby wanted to add caster as there was not enough from the factory. in fact i read it moves the caster 2.5 + This literally pulls the wheel straight when driving . maybe helped at the track but just a guess
According to the information I have this modification is valid for any mustang from 1967 to 1970. Of course I would make sure first before proceeding. Make sure you use the Offset template for 1969 and not the ones for the 65 -66 mustang
Appreciate it, but no. I did some research before the drop to better understand why Shelby did this. Ford designed the car to oversteer so novice drivers would be less likely to hit things but it does impact how the car handles.
great question, the drop itself will reduce the height on its own, so you could keep your original springs. Some people do switch out the springs as they are over 50 years old and have become weak. So be careful if you order new as it will impact your stance. I assume you are still running the original engine (I6 or 289) as engine size will influence your spring choice as well
I all honesty I did not torque them, simply tightened them with a long ratchet. I am taking car in for alignment tomorrow, I will ask the shop if there is a spec on them.
you are right, good catch. I thought it was over steer but after investigation they engineered understeer so the rear would not kick out for the "average" driver. Who would have thought 40 years later drifting would be what we wanted all along. Thank you
These details are exactly what i needed.
Thank you!
Thank you , hope it helps
Could tell a significant change in the handling with the Shelby Drop?
I bought the car in bad shape so never really drove it before the restoration so I cannot compare how it handled before the drop. All I can say is that the car handles very well now but I performed the drop to lower the stance more than I was concerned about handling. The only good news I can add is that you can always reverse a shelby drop by simply putting the upper control arm back into the origional holes.
Well explained I will consider a Shelby Drop on my car, it to hige in the front ,I have taken a inch out of the spring ,but still to high
I am curious as I might need to lower it further. Did you simply use a cut off wheel to angle cut out 1 inch?? I was thinking that might be an option as opposed to ordering springs randomly ..I would love to get the wheels inside the fenders to get a lower stance. I am hoping to put widest tires all around not just wider in back
Yes I use a cut off wheel, but as I remember it half a inch on the spring give inch on the car .The coile on the spring is the same all the way, so it do not become more stiff by take som thing out
@@karstensetholsen5286 Ah. makes sense that as you remove material the spring will both shorten BUT will also collapse further considering some of the "spring" is removed. Good point , I will keep that in mind
When I lowered my control arms 25 years ago, the specs was 1” on 65-66 and 2” on 67-68. I mounted a kit with plates and wedge kit on my 67. What a difference it made!
Isn't it great how with a few adjustments these cars go from passenger cars to track cars. Your car sounds like a thrill to drive.
thanks very good lesson !!! greets from Holland europe
It’s called the Arning Drop after the guy that designed the mustang suspension system
not a lot on the subject but there are a few articles that refer to it as the arming/shelby drop. Always nice to learn something new
Great video. Thanks for sharing. 👍
The Shelby drop changes the geometry for better handling but it also lowers the front about a half inch you stated. I have 68 coupe that I want to do this to but i also want to lower the front end a bit more. Will 1 inch drop springs do the trick? Also I see people putting shims in for camber . Can you please tell me if doing the drop with the oneinch drop springs is all i need to complete this task ? I don’t need new control arms or wedge plates? Thank you
So yes, 1 inch drop springs are shorter than OEM springs BUT be aware that your current springs will be a little saggy as they are 50 years old so brand new 1 inch drop springs may not give you another inch from where you are now but WILL be lower. As per your second question I had found an article that as long as you are 1 inch or less drop and are NOT on the race track you are fine with out shims etc. But with the drop as well as heavy cornering the suspension may take a ball joint to max. Be carful swapping springs, make sure you get a proper spring compressor.
Great observations, and thought process. Since I'm OCD, I'm concerned that your clock never changed time.... Unless you can freeze time... If so I need to know how.
Lol.. yes I forgot to change it. Gives me extra hour in shop.
@@68mustangrestoration34 I meant the one by the garage door. Or is that something else?
Ah. That is a thermometer plus humidity plus time. I do not have batteries in the clock considering I have another clock on the wall...which is also wrong
Great job explaining the process, I'm curious if there is a different set a values that the alignment guy needs to use when doing the alignment??
Great question, i have a link to a great sire on what the specs or changes to alignment are for the Shelby drop hopefully they can use this info. www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324
@@68mustangrestoration34 thanks for that great info. In dealing with the possible ball joint bind when corning hard, here is the fix for that. This will eliminate the binding on the ball joint.www.cjponyparts.com/ridetech-ball-joint-wedge-plate-streetgrip-3-hole-pair-1965-1970/p/12109520/
Good video. I like how you exposed where the work is being done to give a great visual of the procedure. I have a question, you mention the new holes not only move down, but they also move forward. Wouldn't moving the upper control arm move your caster towards the negative direction? I have on order a Shelby drop template and it has the new lower holes towards the back giving you positive caster. BTW, mine is a 66 not 68, so maybe the difference between the years is what's not clear to me.
Thank you for your kind words, and you are 100% correct, if you pause my video at 3:30 the template for 65 -66 moves the lower holes back to keep the caster the same, with 67 68 Shelby wanted to add caster as there was not enough from the factory. in fact i read it moves the caster 2.5 + This literally pulls the wheel straight when driving . maybe helped at the track but just a guess
@@68mustangrestoration34 Thanks, that makes sense now. Off topic, but what color did you paint your car? It's beautiful.
@@mikeroeder6339 thank you. that is accapulco blue
Do you know what differences there are when installing the Shelby drop on a 1969 Mach 1?
Great videos you have provided a lot of info for my projects
According to the information I have this modification is valid for any mustang from 1967 to 1970. Of course I would make sure first before proceeding. Make sure you use the Offset template for 1969 and not the ones for the 65 -66 mustang
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you , hope it helps if you are considering it
Well thought out and explained. Do you, by chance, have an engineering background?
Appreciate it, but no. I did some research before the drop to better understand why Shelby did this. Ford designed the car to oversteer so novice drivers would be less likely to hit things but it does impact how the car handles.
I have a 66, my question is this. Which springs would you go with after the Shelby Drop on a 66 Coupe?
great question, the drop itself will reduce the height on its own, so you could keep your original springs. Some people do switch out the springs as they are over 50 years old and have become weak. So be careful if you order new as it will impact your stance. I assume you are still running the original engine (I6 or 289) as engine size will influence your spring choice as well
@@68mustangrestoration34 I will probably do the 1" drop springs as well. I will do some research. thanks
Do the nuts on the control arm have a torque spec that you have to translate when you drop them?
I all honesty I did not torque them, simply tightened them with a long ratchet. I am taking car in for alignment tomorrow, I will ask the shop if there is a spec on them.
I thought it understeer that ford built into the mustang
you are right, good catch. I thought it was over steer but after investigation they engineered understeer so the rear would not kick out for the "average" driver. Who would have thought 40 years later drifting would be what we wanted all along. Thank you