I'm at least two years away from this point in the project, but my 68 coupe comes home from a new floor and metal work and these videos are giving me all kinds of info to plan for the future! Keep up the good work!
Hello! Great video. Love the teaser at the end about the clutch spring!! That info is definately a life saver on my future C-6 to 5 speed manual. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you , that is exactly what I did here. this was a "C" code automatic car so make sure you watch my video "automatic to manual conversion" as well as I talk about the transmission / bellhousing selection you need to be careful on the year of the t5 as the input shaft is different lengths. Also be preparfed to swap out the differential ratio as the 3-speed automatic has a 2:73 which is VERY tall and I switched to 3:50. PERSONALLY the 3:50 is great IF you want a hole shot. Personally if I had to do it again I would have selected 3:25's . The issue is at 50 MPH / 80 KPH I am constantly switching between 4th and 5th where the 3:25's would run 4th out a little further. Of course you pick the gearing that works with your tire diameter , there are calculators that give you the RPM based on transmission gear and tire diameter and rear end ratio and you pick what you want. All the best on the swap
@@68mustangrestoration34 Thank you for all this great info! Currently running a medium built 460 BBF with a built C-6 manual valve behind it. Have 9 in nodular with 4:11 gears and 31 spline Moser axles and 275x60r15" drag radials. If I keep the 67 Mustang Gt, I would also swap out the engine to a built 351W stroker to a 408. Then swap back to a 5 speed manual perhaps. Doubt is I can run a T-5, have to see what HP I will be putting out NA. Pro street kinda car, no racing anymore, Just cruises and street romping now. It is an S-code car that came with the 390 and 4 speed top loader. Oh decisions decisions, lol Thanks again, Cheers from Motown.
Wow, sounds like a beast, obviously you are 5 steps ahead of where I thought you were. You have already thought this through. I would have concerns as well about a T5, I am running a world class out of a 95 GT so I am OK with my meager build. I had a built 347 in my other car (500hp) and went with tremmec TKO 500 as I snapped the input shaft to my T5 on a road course. I went airborne over a rise and when I landed I heard a snap. as you know HP is the killer of parts LOL...
On my 66 there is a plastic piece between the pedal and spring to prevent squeaking. I ended up making a tool to stretch the helper spring. Dash has to be out of course. I have seen guys put wedges into the coils to lengthen the spring to get it in. Good work Wally I’ll be reworking the pedals in Betsy for the second time during this round of repairs.
All of that went through my head but considering only 4 bolts stood in my way I took the easy way out. You are right, if this was a completed car I too would be creating something to avoid removing the dash.
not yet, I have the standard chrome slotted rims that the GT had come with and I had intended to use them, but I am not married to them. It will be all about stance and proportion once the car is on the ground. If the 14"s do not fill out the fenders I may decide to go to a 15. Also makes tire shopping easier.
Without a doubt it is very satisfying to drop the engine and trans in and have everything line up. Similar feeling as to applying final coat of prime. Your engine leveler seems to crank rather easily. Could you tell me the brand and where it was purchased? I have one but it doesn't really perform as well as I would like.
I had bought it at Canadian tire , the brand is Maximum but I believe that is just rebranded to the store brand. It did move effortlessly and the 4 chains keeps the engine 100% in control.
I would like to think that it was not intentional. I blame myself for not doing the research on what to look for. also I was blinded by wanting the car. lessons learned and hopefully my videos help educate the next person.
I'm at least two years away from this point in the project, but my 68 coupe comes home from a new floor and metal work and these videos are giving me all kinds of info to plan for the future! Keep up the good work!
Thank you Brian, I am on year 2 with this. but taking my time. I am planning to start the car this week but again not going to rush it.
Hello! Great video. Love the teaser at the end about the clutch spring!! That info is definately a life saver on my future C-6 to 5 speed manual. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you , that is exactly what I did here. this was a "C" code automatic car so make sure you watch my video "automatic to manual conversion" as well as I talk about the transmission / bellhousing selection you need to be careful on the year of the t5 as the input shaft is different lengths. Also be preparfed to swap out the differential ratio as the 3-speed automatic has a 2:73 which is VERY tall and I switched to 3:50. PERSONALLY the 3:50 is great IF you want a hole shot. Personally if I had to do it again I would have selected 3:25's . The issue is at 50 MPH / 80 KPH I am constantly switching between 4th and 5th where the 3:25's would run 4th out a little further. Of course you pick the gearing that works with your tire diameter , there are calculators that give you the RPM based on transmission gear and tire diameter and rear end ratio and you pick what you want. All the best on the swap
@@68mustangrestoration34 Thank you for all this great info! Currently running a medium built 460 BBF with a built C-6 manual valve behind it. Have 9 in nodular with 4:11 gears and 31 spline Moser axles and 275x60r15" drag radials. If I keep the 67 Mustang Gt, I would also swap out the engine to a built 351W stroker to a 408. Then swap back to a 5 speed manual perhaps. Doubt is I can run a T-5, have to see what HP I will be putting out NA. Pro street kinda car, no racing anymore, Just cruises and street romping now. It is an S-code car that came with the 390 and 4 speed top loader. Oh decisions decisions, lol Thanks again, Cheers from Motown.
Wow, sounds like a beast, obviously you are 5 steps ahead of where I thought you were. You have already thought this through. I would have concerns as well about a T5, I am running a world class out of a 95 GT so I am OK with my meager build. I had a built 347 in my other car (500hp) and went with tremmec TKO 500 as I snapped the input shaft to my T5 on a road course. I went airborne over a rise and when I landed I heard a snap. as you know HP is the killer of parts LOL...
Wally, You made that engine drop-in look easy! "You gotta love it when a plan comes together!" Thanks for sharing.
appreciate it, I feel planning, walking through what I want to do in my mind first helps a lot.
Great job Wally.
On my 66 there is a plastic piece between the pedal and spring to prevent squeaking. I ended up making a tool to stretch the helper spring. Dash has to be out of course. I have seen guys put wedges into the coils to lengthen the spring to get it in.
Good work Wally
I’ll be reworking the pedals in Betsy for the second time during this round of repairs.
All of that went through my head but considering only 4 bolts stood in my way I took the easy way out. You are right, if this was a completed car I too would be creating something to avoid removing the dash.
Fantastic! That sucker is really coming together!
As alway good infirmary video, I have just pulled a motor out of Buick 1967 luckily I have this divise, to change the tilt of the motor
Cheap insurance to maintain control over the engine,
Have you already chosen your new wheels?
not yet, I have the standard chrome slotted rims that the GT had come with and I had intended to use them, but I am not married to them. It will be all about stance and proportion once the car is on the ground. If the 14"s do not fill out the fenders I may decide to go to a 15. Also makes tire shopping easier.
Without a doubt it is very satisfying to drop the engine and trans in and have everything line up. Similar feeling as to applying final coat of prime.
Your engine leveler seems to crank rather easily. Could you tell me the brand and where it was purchased? I have one but it doesn't really perform as well as I would like.
I had bought it at Canadian tire , the brand is Maximum but I believe that is just rebranded to the store brand. It did move effortlessly and the 4 chains keeps the engine 100% in control.
@@68mustangrestoration34 Thank you for the info. I'll check to see if I can locate a similar model available in the U.S..
I wonder if you ever tried to get a refund from the previous owner? I mean, moneywise he actually deceived you at a high level...
I would like to think that it was not intentional. I blame myself for not doing the research on what to look for. also I was blinded by wanting the car. lessons learned and hopefully my videos help educate the next person.