I like the way this guy has hung it on a old frame because most other videos are on new frames which is a lot easier. In reality most doors you hang are on old frames.
The reason for the 6 down 9 up was origenaly used in victorian times as doors of that period were joined using mortis ans tennons. The bottom rails were bigger than the top rails for asthetic reasons hence 6 down and 9 up to miss the mortis and tennon joints or you would be screwing into end grain. These days most doors are not jointed using mortis and tennons so the hinges can be placed how you prefere but most of us still use 6 down 9 up as you discribed for asthetic reasons. Im a carpenter with over 40 years experience, i still love my trade and enjoy watching carpentry videos. Keep posting your videos ans make an old carpenter happy lol I 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
@@GreenHawkConstructionltd No problem mate, it wasnt a criticism i just enjoy passing on what ive learned over the years and thankyou for all your great videos, thoroughly enjoyable 👍👍👍👍
Great helpful vid. I've got 4 to buy and fit. Are these pre-finished or were going to be painted? I will be varnishing mine. Is it best to seal/varnish and lay them flat a few days veggie hanging them?
Nice beautiful oak doors! And reusing those old jams where the hinge pattern is off? I mean I can and do change the entire system out with finger jointed pine or popular (here in the states) for just maybe 125 more? But you only do the job your asked not your fault! And u did a very professional job !
@@GreenHawkConstructionltd yes : as you say “on them Mate”! I like how you kept it simple but your measurement were dead nutz on. A lot of guys don’t understand that about finish and especially doors your not moving much more than a 32nd if that off your mark!
At the start of the the video you just measured down from the head of the lining to get the door length. This is okay in so far as the head is actually level and square to the lining. If (which is often the case) the head is not level then does this still work? I did a new fire door in an old frame the other week and the head lining was out left to right by 25mm! (it was a fire door as well so I couldn't scribe the top to fit either!) In this situation what would you do to get the length. Always good to get someone else's ideas on how they go about these problems in old houses (which is what I always seem to get) I very rarely get a head lining that's level! Great video with lots of great pointers. It would be good to see how you do the out of level head. Thank you for taking the time to make the videos.
Won’t get a reply on the awkward jobs mate ! I just watched this video and have never had a door that easy to hang … hinge and closing side usually need planing to scribe to frame and so is the same for the head … you can’t make a video for hanging a door in an old frame it would be hours long trying ti explaining everything that could crop up
@@isaacpowers368 thanks for the comment. Looks like you have the same door hanging experiences as me! I dont think ive yet to fit one that just drops straight in always have to scribe the hinge and closing edge to the frame! And it seems just about every head is out of level? Thought it was just me! Keep chipping....
@@jonbarrie7002 no not just you ! I see a few things wrong with this video …. Most time on a door is spent getting the hinge side right , he seems to just put hinges on first then fit it straight to frame . Wish I could have doors like that !
Presumably, these were oak veneer doors. I was very interested in the plunge saw and guide you used to take the bottom edge of the door off. Which brands did you use and what type of blade in the saw?. Reason I ask is that use a small circular saw to resize doors because I can't use a plane accurately on a door edge to save my life. Despite taking precautions like scoring the line to be cut or using tape to protect it I still manage to chip the veneer off on the underside. I would welcome any suggestions. I love seeing a true craftman at work and the hardware you use.
bad title, use a router sure, but use a mirror jig too - no need for measuring anything - just finished a house full of fire doors all in one hit - far too heavy to second attempts - was 200£ but worth the price.
@@pault4793 No need to be sorry m8. Not everyone understands permitted swept curves for cables like meter tails etc... plus to be honest it's a garage not a swish London loft apartment 🙄 FFS
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 Thats ok then , cos its in a garage your allowed to do a install thats looks like a chippy did it,, nothing to do with curves its to do with aestheics , just saying theres a better way to do that, stick to hanging doors mate
All these unsuspecting homeowners having a cheap imported consumer unit fitted. Then, when the guy importing them decides to stop as he’s made enough £ or it becomes too much of a hassle, all these homeowners are left with a consumer unit you can’t upgrade or get replacement devices for. All for the sake of the electricians saving £50.
Use a Stanley knife with a new balde to draw round the hinge if your wanting to be accurate. No need to use a hammer and chisel at all tbh. Your cutout by the way, was slack and too deep just so you know. You said masterclass.....should have used my methods and swung the door without screwing the hinges in on the door or the frame.....very disappointed I was watching this video.
I like the way this guy has hung it on a old frame because most other videos are on new frames which is a lot easier. In reality most doors you hang are on old frames.
The reason for the 6 down 9 up was origenaly used in victorian times as doors of that period were joined using mortis ans tennons. The bottom rails were bigger than the top rails for asthetic reasons hence 6 down and 9 up to miss the mortis and tennon joints or you would be screwing into end grain. These days most doors are not jointed using mortis and tennons so the hinges can be placed how you prefere but most of us still use 6 down 9 up as you discribed for asthetic reasons. Im a carpenter with over 40 years experience, i still love my trade and enjoy watching carpentry videos. Keep posting your videos ans make an old carpenter happy lol I 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Love learning about the facts of the why we all take things for granted. Glad you enjoy the channel 🙏🙏🙏
@@GreenHawkConstructionltd No problem mate, it wasnt a criticism i just enjoy passing on what ive learned over the years and thankyou for all your great videos, thoroughly enjoyable 👍👍👍👍
I find a storyboard great for transferring hinge placement from door to jamb
This is an excellent video, very helpful and clearly explained. Thank you sharing.
An excellent tutorial!
This video really should be called 'A Masterclass in hanging Oak Doors' - Steve is so good!
Lewis did a cracking job explaining which way the hinges go on the door. You should get him on more!
We try to 🤣🤣🤣
Great video! Do you have any videos to make a custom door jam? Thanks
Great vid. Love a bit of chippy work!
class video boys love it
Sweet little job there lads, nice one👍 And bet all that slepping up and down the stairs with them doors was fun. 😆
Excellent video, you boys have done a fab job there. Well done. Really enjoy watching your videos, keep up the good work
Thanks bud 👍
Great video, thanks.
Great helpful vid.
I've got 4 to buy and fit.
Are these pre-finished or were going to be painted?
I will be varnishing mine.
Is it best to seal/varnish and lay them flat a few days veggie hanging them?
Those latches look nice. Do you know which ones they were?
Great video mate
Nice beautiful oak doors! And reusing those old jams where the hinge pattern is off? I mean I can and do change the entire system out with finger jointed pine or popular (here in the states) for just maybe 125 more? But you only do the job your asked not your fault! And u did a very professional job !
Exactly you give the customer the options and ultimately it’s down to them
@@GreenHawkConstructionltd yes : as you say “on them Mate”! I like how you kept it simple but your measurement were dead nutz on. A lot of guys don’t understand that about finish and especially doors your not moving much more than a 32nd if that off your mark!
Good Stuff👍
At the start of the the video you just measured down from the head of the lining to get the door length. This is okay in so far as the head is actually level and square to the lining. If (which is often the case) the head is not level then does this still work? I did a new fire door in an old frame the other week and the head lining was out left to right by 25mm! (it was a fire door as well so I couldn't scribe the top to fit either!) In this situation what would you do to get the length. Always good to get someone else's ideas on how they go about these problems in old houses (which is what I always seem to get) I very rarely get a head lining that's level! Great video with lots of great pointers. It would be good to see how you do the out of level head. Thank you for taking the time to make the videos.
Won’t get a reply on the awkward jobs mate ! I just watched this video and have never had a door that easy to hang … hinge and closing side usually need planing to scribe to frame and so is the same for the head … you can’t make a video for hanging a door in an old frame it would be hours long trying ti explaining everything that could crop up
@@isaacpowers368 thanks for the comment. Looks like you have the same door hanging experiences as me! I dont think ive yet to fit one that just drops straight in always have to scribe the hinge and closing edge to the frame! And it seems just about every head is out of level? Thought it was just me! Keep chipping....
@@jonbarrie7002 no not just you ! I see a few things wrong with this video …. Most time on a door is spent getting the hinge side right , he seems to just put hinges on first then fit it straight to frame . Wish I could have doors like that !
Presumably, these were oak veneer doors. I was very interested in the plunge saw and guide you used to take the bottom edge of the door off. Which brands did you use and what type of blade in the saw?. Reason I ask is that use a small circular saw to resize doors because I can't use a plane accurately on a door edge to save my life. Despite taking precautions like scoring the line to be cut or using tape to protect it I still manage to chip the veneer off on the underside. I would welcome any suggestions. I love seeing a true craftman at work and the hardware you use.
Masterclass, what time does it start! Lol😂
It's not a masterclass for chippies, but would be for a diyer or someone that has never hung a door before.
Great video and great timing. Thank you.
I've picked loads of tips, just nervous about the chiselling bit haha.
Glad it helps 🤣
How many doors did you get swinging in a day? Nice vid
I have some 102 X 76x3mm hinges. Can I still do the same procedure for house doors. The hinges seem to go the entire width of door.
as one door closes a another door opens
No matter how good someone is with a chisel router is so much more effective and don't use impact driver with stainless screws.
Also oak doors are a bitch for burning when cutting....don't suppose matters on the bottom of door
bad title, use a router sure, but use a mirror jig too - no need for measuring anything - just finished a house full of fire doors all in one hit - far too heavy to second attempts - was 200£ but worth the price.
whoever wired the main tails in that fuseboard behind needs to have another go , dont look neat , sorry !
Which one... the one on the floor? That's a temporary Site Board m8 🙄
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 No m8 the main board , main tails , perhaps your apprentice did it not sure!
@@pault4793 No need to be sorry m8. Not everyone understands permitted swept curves for cables like meter tails etc... plus to be honest it's a garage not a swish London loft apartment 🙄 FFS
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 Thats ok then , cos its in a garage your allowed to do a install thats looks like a chippy did it,, nothing to do with curves its to do with aestheics , just saying theres a better way to do that, stick to hanging doors mate
All these unsuspecting homeowners having a cheap imported consumer unit fitted. Then, when the guy importing them decides to stop as he’s made enough £ or it becomes too much of a hassle, all these homeowners are left with a consumer unit you can’t upgrade or get replacement devices for. All for the sake of the electricians saving £50.
Use a Stanley knife with a new balde to draw round the hinge if your wanting to be accurate. No need to use a hammer and chisel at all tbh.
Your cutout by the way, was slack and too deep just so you know.
You said masterclass.....should have used my methods and swung the door without screwing the hinges in on the door or the frame.....very disappointed I was watching this video.