I think small well hidden caches might be more effective for some people, especially considering how little space gold takes up. The main risk is losing track of them.
A tip for apartment living on the second floor or people with lighter safe in general. If on the second floor and cant go too heavy or bolt to the floor, use a hardened steel plate that is bigger than your door frame and bolt your safe to that. Carriage bolts going up from the bottom and secured from the inside. The bolt head is round on the bottom so they cant be removed without cutting. This works anywhere a safe is kept behind a door, not just apartments
And then put a Eufy security camera on that safe and all around your house and property that way if someone does break in even if you are not home, you’ll know about it and can call the authorities and/or neighbors
I look at my safe and think, "some day i'm gonna fill you up" $3200 solid steel Sturdy co. safe with less then that in gun and ammo. but the family birth certificates are safe.
Excellent and helpful video for sure, I may end up with this safe as it seems practical and a good value. Curious, what does 2 is 1 mean? PS: Glad you like JM Bullion, they were my first online bullion dealer. I've been stacking now for a year and have purchased from several other online dealers as deals pop up, and to survey the good and the bad. My worst experience as far as coin condition goes would be with SD Bullion. Low prices, and even lower quality condition along with lower quality customer service. You being into buying gold for 15 yrs tells me the chances are good that I'm not telling you anything that you may already know. Keep bringing us your perspective as I really appreciate it! 🤘😁🤘 CHEERS!
Fort Knox 7241 (means it’s 72 inches high by 41 inches wide). Weighs 2200 lbs. costs over $10,000. Considering what it stores…worth it. And it’s a beautiful piece, custom paint and gold leaf. It’s gorgeous.
In my mind, security IS a BIG issue when it comes to protecting your valuables and it's a shame that people like 2 is1 can't upload an informative video like this without having a bunch of children make ridiculous comments without even knowing what they are talking about. 2 is 1, this was/is a great video, thanks for posting it, it should be viewed by anyone interested in keeping their metals SAFE. Getting a quality safe like this coupled with a good security/surveillance system, and you will sleep like a baby while away from home!😏
Something often overlooked is will your safe and its contents survive the location you store it in a disaster? If it's in your bedroom that is above a basement, will it survive the fall when the bedroom floor fails during a fire? If its in your basement with it survive a flood? Not all flooded basements come from nature. I've seen basements have a couple feet of water in them from the fire department trying to put out or contain the fire. Thats why my safe is on a concrete floor the same level as outside, it'll never flood in that spot and my safe won't have to survive fall damage in a fire.
Big fan of your videos. To note, you correctly stated the most looted areas intruders go - master bedroom/master closet, and home office. The least likely place is the pantry. Nobody wants to steal catfood. Fwiw.
Thinking about these days and a pantry, I'm sure that some burglars would be happy to cart off 200-300 lbs. of people food. They might just hit the freezer while they are at it.
I also recommend the Hollon line. Made in USA and good fire and secure ratings. I like the old style dial entry. And you’re right they are a pain to move.
I have safe by a company called sturdy safe that I bought about 3 years ago. It was the thickest steel I could buy for the money and they do a fantastic job. They can build you basically whatever you want. 🤠
I got a sturdy about one year ago. delivered on time, no damage. bolt down install and got a few cool custom items. that thick steel needs a torch or plasma cutter. sad cause all I got in it is a few guns. can we all chant $1500 gold oz. I could buy one.
I feel like safes are one of those purchases you do a lot of research for and then commit to one, but it's difficult to have experience with many so you're going to defend whatever you purchased. With that said, I tinkered with a bunch in person and after a lot of research went with a Liberty Safe and have loved it for years.
You definitely get committed to a safe once they’re installed. They’re too heavy to break up with. Reminds me of a problem a college roommate had once. 😄
Or buy used and focus on the cheapest safe you can find that is tl-15 or above. There’s not much research you can do as a consumer that will give you more insight than the official rating. Beware of safes that have no rating. It’s not just about the thickness of steel. Safes can have design vulnerabilities in the hinges, bars, and the linkages that interact with the lock. A poor design can enable dial punch attacks and such. The rating agency is allowed to review the design of the safe to devise their plan of attack. It’s not just a bunch of guys with drills, saws, and sledgehammers.
Nesting doll scenario works quite well; a smaller safe for the PMs inside the bigger safe which is anchored to the slab that houses instruments of destruction. Not going to knock other options such as single, heavy, bolted down units in inconspicuous locations as each person's situation is unique. Don't believe there's a wrong way to go about it as most everyone is defending against the neighborhood's opportunistic vermin. One thing we heard was the electronic key pads can be swapped from safe to safe providing they are of the same manufacturer. Not sure how true that is but it was interesting. Cheers!
You could always fool the burglars by buying a second more impressive looking safe and keeping it completely empty. That way, they spend all their time trying to steal the distraction safe 😂.
That's actually not a bad idea. Just buy a cheap Made-in-China RSC gun "safe" (really just an oversized file cabinet) from one of the big box retailers and leave it in plain sight.
Thanks for another great video! I'm just getting into stacking, only have a couple grand in bullion so far, so simply hiding it is the most logical method for me at the moment. Can't wait til my nest egg warrants investing in a prime safe like this. Stay safe, brother.
I love nerding out on safes. I don't really know much about Gardall, but I agree with Hollon and AmSec as well as Ft Knox as quality safes. Have never seen a Graffunder but apparently their build tolerances are amazingly tight. The only thing I would add is if a person is looking for a good deal on a TL rated safe, there are some bargains to be had in the used safe domain. Oh, and the "Office Space" reference reminded me of the scene where Michael Bolton was printing something and it gave him the PC Load Letter error and he started swearing at it... so many gems in that movie.
@@Freeeeeeeedoooooooom yea, that line totally resonated the first time I saw it as I was having my soul slowly drained by the bureaucracy succubus. Before "FIRE" was a term I put myself into artificial poverty by purchasing some land and saving a lot. I forgot the names of half the people in my office a week after I retired, they were literally drones to me.
I DO have a safe in my bedroom! A typical home safe. Contents: Old no longer used keys, some fake Krugerrands and a tiny amount of cash, silver and gold plated jewelry - just enough to make it convincible that it's all there is. Also useable in the event of a home robbery - okay then lets go open the safe! (fortunately not common in my country but there has been a few cases) Does anybody know what level TL-15 corresponds to on the EN1143-1 scale ?
I purchased an American Security BFX6024 Safe to put in my office, weight 751 lbs, and it will be bolted to the concrete floor. I wanted the BFX6032 but it wouldn't fit in the area I have to put it. I have a few guns, I'd feel much better getting out of the closet. Also, my favorite dog has always been the American Staffordshire Terrier, AKA Pit Bull, Guinness Stout would keep the bad guy occupied until the Ambulance showed up to stitch him back up.
Interesting that you talk about this now. I've been looking at safe options because I've outgrown my old one. I guess it's time to go looking locally and see what I can easily find in my area. Thanks!
A great option for those who can't bolt a safe to the floor (rented apartments, etc.) is to simply weigh it down with lead. Lead is cheap, and very dense, and you can easily double or even triple the weight of you safe with it without taking up too much room. It also has the added benefit of concentrating the weight at the bottom, making it just that much harder to tip over.
Wow, I'd love to hear more about the bottom of the lake issue. Never heard you speak of that before. Love your videos, Thank You for sharing your insight!!!
My strategy is a heavy duty gun safe bolted to concrete (rated 60min fire) and within that safe another 1hr rated Honeywell 1114 fireproof safe where all the treasures live. This gives you significant fire resistance. There’s a great TH-cam video on the Honeywell where the dude throws it into a camp fire and recovers all items in tact. Double action / double eagle 🦅
Was there by test that replicate an actual house fire? I’ve been burned on products before that had videos of them doing similar things but I learned that is nowhere near the same thing
@@2is1gold It's not that hard to do, especially if you have a 1/2" hammer drill. If not, you can probably rent one for a few hours for $50 or less. These work extremely well at boring holes in concrete. Put four 1/2" x 4-inch concrete anchors through the bottom and / or back of the safe with large washers on them and you are good to go. I did just that at our previous home in town and with 8 grade 8 4"x1/2" bolts and anchors, that safe wasn't going anywhere without a backhoe coming through the wall to get it.
@@jackkleinke9232, Videos like anything can be rigged, faked, skewed, etc. I would strongly recommend visiting your local fire department, they love giving unbiased help and advice! No one knows better than how long a typical fire does damage in your neighborhood and to what extent, than those who fight them on a regular basis! Luckily one of the fire hydrants in our development is very close to me!
I have thought about putting a Burgwatcher royal cashbox inside of a safe something like you have there maybe. I figured I could make a special mounting plate that I could mount the cashbox to and drill a hole in that plate so I could utilize the bolt holes 🕳️ in the safe itself to secure the plate to the safe. I also thought about buying a big stealth safe or maybe an Am Sec. BWB cashiers safe and putting my cheap Sentury safe inside of it. The Sentury safe has an hour fire rating and I believe the stealth safe has a fire rating as well however the AM.SEC. BWB cash safe does not have any fire rating at all.I believe you can also buy special bags that give the fire proof ratings for an hour or two as well for extra sensitive extra important documents.
I think the best thing most can do is buy a small lock box to contain your metal and hide it where only you and one other person know and where most would not suspect. a safe might take 15 or 30 minutes to break into vs a package that might take double that to find, if it ever gets found. if u have millions of dollars of metal/property to store, ok, but for most people with 10s or a few 100 thousand I think hiding is best.
Good info video. Some keep PMs in their gun safe. It's wise to bolt safe to floor or wall. Cheaper safes have thinner gauge sheet metal and less fire resistant time. Thin gauge safes can be broken into with long pry bar but it takes some time to bend the metal to open. l have a safe and also security cameras, door/window sensors which I think are good to have. A few security cameras don't cost a lot, self install is cheaper or pay to have them installed.
Even using a safety deposit box at a bank can be utilized but keep in mind that the bank doesn't insure the contents. But you can purchase insurance at reasonable rates through a 3rd party insurer that will cover the contents. Can be cheaper than using a vault service depending on value of the contents. One drawback to Vaults and Safe deposit boxes is that you can only access them during business hours.
The best safe you can get for silver stacking is a really heavy secondhand one, from the 80s or 90s. People are practically giving those away, if you arrange and pay for the shipping. If you don't get it for free, you will pay no more than $100 - $1,000. $100 will buy you a 1,500 lbs safe and $800 - $1,000 will buy you a >4,500 lbs safe of the highest security rating that exist (same as used in actual banks). For added security you can disguise it as something else, for example as one of those huge disco bass speakers.
Keeping the goods safe is obviously super important. However, those small safes are dangerous imho. Large TL-30 is my favorite. Around 3k-4k lbs empty. Concrete lag bolts keep it in place. Like you said, with the proper equipment and enough time, a pro can get in. Cameras, alarms, dogs etc all help to keep them out in the 1st place. Stashing your loot in a frozen turkey works too 🙃 As an aside, keeping some PM’s abroad is also a good idea. Cheers
Great Video! Super informative and PRACICAL. Thank You. Preciuos metals certianly justifies the cost of protection but the bonus is that these things (safes) hold so many other valuable, estate documents, passports, personal and private records, etc., etc., etc.. I am a believer that everyone should have safe staorge option available to them . It also aids in simply knowing where items are on that day you need to get to them... : ) Oh Honey, which draw did I put that in....
Absolutely. This was a long video already, but the interior organization is easy to nerd out on too. I have organizers, trays and fireproof bags and cases in my safes. I know right where passports are, I know right where birth certificates and hard copies of appraisals and wills are. I feel a lot better keeping all of that lined up and laid out in a heavy duty safe. Cheers!
Maybe I went overboard but I bought a Liberty Presidential 50 safe a couple years ago. I needed the space for other things but my PMs live there too. It has something like a 2.5 hour fire rating and is made of 7 gauge steel. It weighs 1600 pounds so no real need to bolt it to the floor 😅
Got myself a 800lbs safe for insurance reasons along with a home alarm system with direct response action. Since gun laws is effed up here, not much else i can do except having my machetes accessible😅
Proud to keep my precious metals in a fireproof safe...more valuable bigger size pieces in a fireproof lockbox in said safe. But better to have as I've said in the past. More than one location. Detachable garage...sister and brother in laws house. If so called"bad guy" wants the contents 1 movie title comes to mind. "Death Wish" great insight Dr. Gold have a WONDERFUL extra long weekend!!!
I currently rent so having a safe is out of the option. I do a hide in plain sight type of thing. Also, I have plans on splitting my stack and hiding it it in different spots as well as creating a few false easy targets that contain little to no value, but satisfies the burglar.
A couple contrary points- My father in law's house was broken into. He had a super cheap gun safe. Think glorified filing cabinet. The thieves worked on it with a crowbar they got from his garage. They did not breach it. And they would have been disappointed if they had, his taste in guns reflect his taste in safes. Secondly, I moved 460 pound bluestone steps BY MYSELF with a 3 foot bar and some 1/2 inch pipe.(EMT to be specific) I had no trouble positioning a 400 pound gun safe in a friends garage with a similar method. Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum to rest it on and I shall move the earth. I'm more concerned about flood and fire than robbery, so my little guy was purchased because of its ratings in those departments.
i use an inexpensive double-lock, fireproof safe. i also make damn sure it is anchored to the foundation of my house, and place it in an out of the way spot in my home.
So, I spent about $500 on a fire resistant gun safe that weighs about 350lbs dry. Bolted her in, got a monitored home security system and a permit with the city, and when I'm home, employ the 2A. Now, I could have gone with a Liberty or something far more costly, but the truth is, you can get into all of them with one method (should that one be chosen) in about 2 -5minutes. They all simply act as another barrier to theft and buy time. The chances are slim, and with the home security system, I'm thinking I'm probably good to go.
“Good enough” is going to be a personal call. I think the home security is probably more important too, but a TL-rated safe is a much different level of tool or mobility deterrence.
@@2is1gold It is TL-rated. But, that still only gives us a small amount of security. 2-5 minutes (done the right way) and we're screwed Man. They're in. At that point it's the game of do I or the cops get there first? They better hope the cops do ha ha.
@@elitefitness341don’t think you understood what he said. He’s referring to TL-15 rated safes and above. There’s a difference between UL-rated and TL-rated. Those are a whole different type of beast when it comes to safes. You can’t get a TL rated safe for under $1500 and they weigh 500 pounds minimum for a safe smaller than your microwave. It’s no small amount of security. The doors start with 2 inches of plate steel, at minimum.
@@SergiuM42 You are correct. But I know exactly what he's saying. What I meant is, is that if one knows how, you can penetrate a safe with a few options of specific tools easily picked up at many stores. Of course, I'm not going to say what they are for obvious reasons. TL is great, but it's not what many people think it is was my point. It takes minutes to get into pretty much any safe and that is the unfortunate reality. Luckily most thieves can't even penetrate any safe efficiently with even a crow bar. Which is not even a good option to be honest.
For the past few months I have been hot and cold about buying a quality safe but I finally made up my mind so today I am sitting here looking at the safe I had delivered trying to figure out how to get it off it's back! It started out upright but one slip on the hand dolly and it was on it's back. Like 2 is 1, I did a lot of shopping around and made my choice based mainly on two things; 1. It must not be able to be dragged out of it's location and being 710 pounds soon to be bolted down to concrete that will NOT be an issue! I used the value of two gold coins as an amount not to exceed (I figured now that I have a few coins and a bar or two along with other valuables, why not INVEST in a safe that will NOT allow anyone breaking into it or taking it away! As 2 is 1 says, stay away from the junk safes that can be carried away. I bought the AMSEC CEV1814 TL-15 with the glass re-locker which is 23.5" T x 19.5" W x 21" D but with 5 1/5" steel and concrete walls all around and a 6 1/2" thick door the usable space is 18" x 14" x 12" which doesn't sound like much but it holds more than I thought. The best thing I like about the safe is that I know my things will be safe and not have to worry if it got stolen when I was away or someone took a grinder or cutter to the walls. Peace of mind is what it is all about! Now if I can just figure out how to get it upright so I can move it into place (I thought I knew how much 710 pounds is? I was wrong!)
That is a great safe, and they are terrible to move. Probably worth calling a moving company. They’d make short work of it. Might save you a broken foot!
I have the same safe with a mechanical dial. It's awesome and yet small enough to hide. Also, people need to have an alarm system. It's all about reducing the amount of time a burglar as to steal stuff.
@@2is1gold For sure, I ordered mine on Amazon. The price was competitive and you get 5% back if you use a Prime credit card. They had a to have a special truck and crew drop it off.
I would layer on top of monitored security alarm a good solid door/door locks and security film. 3M makes good security film but it’s damn expensive. Watch the videos on their products, the price you pay may be worth it to protect you, your family and your PM.
I’m not breaking in to crack your beautiful safe! I’m breaking in to read your Easton Press 📚leather bound collection while drinking a whisky 🥃 neat. 2 is 1 arrives home: “Oh! You must be the English Professor!” 😂
Here’s how I do it: I use cheap $100.00FRN’s/USD safes. All the bathroom & closet doors as well as the bedroom doors have key’ed lock handle/handsets. I have a go-to bolted-to-a-shelf safe in a hall-way closet. In case of a home-invasion ROBBERY? It’s the premeditated “sacrificial safe”. Then? I have a safe bolted into a void-space inside the HVAC Ceiling air-handler unit. Additionally?? In the fur-down soffit build-outs in the kitchen (above the kitchen cabinets)?, I’ve created a fake HVAC vent cover hiding a built-in safe. Then?, I have a safe bolted to the wall & shelf underneath the Master-Bathroom vanity. Additionally? I have a safe in “HER” closet & then a built-in safe in my closet behind my Ron Paul for President campaign sign. Lastly?? There’s the one inside the very top cabinet in the utility Washer/Dryer room. We also have about 1 dummy in-the-wall false-outlet boxes in every room. All this? Inside a 1000Sq.Ft. 2/2 condo
I have been in the market for a decent safe for some coins and some other things you have made my mind up I have had my eye on that certain one that you have in the video that's the 1 I'm gonna get thank you
TL-15, or TL-30. Anything else, and you're not protected. Bolt it to concrete floor, in a corner. It weighs 500-600 lbs or so. I think a RSC rated safe can be breached in 5 minutes. And anything from a big box store is garbage. The door of a safe is about 1/3 the total weight. You take the door off to make easier to move/install
AMSEC guy here! I have a few and had to have them "installed". Very happy with them! I prefer the standard dial as opposed to the digital. Keep your mouth shut!!!!!!
The biggest risk for me is girl friends, X girl friends, X wives, wives, kids or Step-kids, loose lips sink ships etc. How many of those risks do I have you might ask?? I do use a small safe for very temporary storage. I cannot risk storing valuables like gold or cash in my house. How hard would it be for a bad guy to force me to open the safe no matter how secure it is? I live in a third world country where security has to be taken seriously. In my case its just more prudent to use a private vault.
Either no one knows or its offsite at a degree. Gold, guns even crypto, they will just start cutting your fingers off until you open it. Insane diminishing returns after just removing basic opportunity of theft.
I like that micro case idea. I typically use my food saver to vacuum seal my tubes. Probably still will. I have a couple of Pelican cases in the 1200 size I use as travel humidors on long trips. They are almost 30 years old now. Great product.
I really enjoy your videos. Very well put together. You seem to enjoy nicer things. If you don't mind me asking... what do you do for a living or what do you attribute your success to?
Is your Hollon safe doing well? Are there any problems with that safe we should consider before purchasing it? I work for a living and we live paycheck to paycheck I can’t afford something that needs worked on all the time. I was thinking an electronic lock safe would be convenient, so as long as they hold up well.
IMO, it's mistake to think that being heavy will protect a safe from being hauled away. While that does add a complication to the job, it's not that hard for one man to move a 450# safe with a heavy duty hand truck. I know because I did that when I helped my son put his new 24-gun safe in at his previous house. He was under the house getting the area ready for the safe and bolting it down while I moved the safe from the foyer about 30 feet to and down a hallway to get it near the closet where it would be installed. Once the safe was tipped back a little, I got the load plate of the hand truck under it and was able to pull the safe toward me enough to get its weight onto the hand truck. After that it was slow but smooth going with no stairs or other obstacles. So, am I a tough guy? No, not really. But at 6' 2" and 235 lbs. I have some size to me and the strength that goes with it but I was also packing 65 years of living with that. A 20-30 something burglar would have had no trouble with this at all, unless he was pretty thin.
Center of gravity and leverage come into play. That 250 lb safe is only 18” high. Same with the 450 lb TL-15 version. Maybe a scholar can jump in to explain the math here, but they just don’t tip back the same. And then it’s bolted down. And the heavier the safe, the harder it is to pop the lag bolts. It’s a good idea to not keep a hand truck around for a thief to use, though. Cheers!
@@2is1gold "Center of gravity and leverage come into play." Yes, they do, because the height of the safe provides the lever arm when one is trying to tip it. My basic comment was to show people that merely being heavy isn't the only protection from theft that a safe needs. Bolting it to solid concrete is a very good deterrent to theft, especially if both the bottom and the back are bolted to the concrete floor and the concrete wall behind the safe. While not everyone has both floors and walls of concrete, those who do should take advantage of the extra protection these provide. Agree on the hand truck and also some rather nifty safe openers like a grinder with metal cutting wheels. Anyone having such a tool is advised to keep the cutting wheels for it inside the safe. 😉
Enjoyed the video! Also, I’ve purchased one of those mint tubes to fill as a goal of mine and when I put the few buffalos that I have in there, I noticed it was kind of forced to get them in and also out. I also noticed the edges get a little dinged. Is that something you experience?
Never wake Board with a tube of gold buffalos. The tragedy isn’t that it happened and I lost that tube once. It is that I’ve done it 3 times. I know, you are right. I really do enjoy wake boarding.
i bought this 5 years ago. Weighs 90 pounds. Suits me alright and gets the job done. Amazon Basics Fire Resistant Security Safe with Programmable Electronic Keypad - 2.1 Cubic Feet, 16.93 x 25.98 x 13.8 inches
problem with valuables in that, theft can just carry away open later. or since walls are thin a small carry grinder will cut 14 gauge steel .07 inches in short order. same with box store $2k gun safes, composite door is really thin metal with concrete or something in between and is easy to cut open. you want .25 inch or more of SOLID steel if you gonna use it for anything worth $.
@@ChainsawKLOBYK tbh, i don't store my PM and valuables onsite at my home. this one i just use for my junk silver bag that i like to play with and some petty cash on hand. If it were to get stolen it would suck, but it wouldn't devastate me.
Just curios as to why you didn't go with a TL safe? Spending the extra $1000-$1500 would be safe insurance for the amount of gold that you have. I'm trying to decide between the two myself. I'm leaning towards the TL safe but would love to hear your thoughts. Great video as always!!!!
My primary is a TL-rated safe from one of the other brands. It cost around $2,500 at the time and required pros to move it in. I was looking recently and saw the same safe more or less for nearly $4,000. So, the counterpoints to the much heavier TL safes is cost and convenience. I'd do it again, but I really like the RSC or fire & burglary safes if I can afford to lose what's inside it. Cheers!
@@2is1gold is there a service where the installers wear blindfolds while lugging it in? Mostly kidding, but any worries about showing the installers your safe spot?
I’m only 20 and would like to start saving money outside of the bank for my kid incase anything happens to me or when my time comes… I don’t know much about saving in precious metals and would like to start but don’t know if I should wait to start as well
Something to consider……………………… The electronic key pads WILL fail, it’s just a question of when, and when that happens, the safe will have to be drill out to replace the keypad. The old fashioned mechanical dials, take a little longer to open, but never fail and will last 100years +. Another option is to buy a used jewelers safe. These can be found at local locksmith shops These are T30-T60 and originally cost over $10k, but can be bought used for $1,000-$1,700. They jeweler/business safes are 1,500-3,000 lbs and would require you to pay to have them delivered.
@@2is1gold Perhaps availability of the used commercial safes are dictated by your area. Living near a large city increases one’s chances. I also find these used safes on Facebook market and Craig’s list for free, but you have to be able to move a 2,000 lb safe.
@@barryh861 I’ve had the same electronic lock as you fail after about 12 years. It was covered under my safe’s 50 year warranty, but a safe cracker had to come to the safe and drill to get in. I asked the manufacturer if this is common for these locks to fail, and they said they all fail in time. I had them install a manual dial lock instead, so I wouldn’t be locked out again. I just wanted to give a heads up to anyone looking to buy a safe as I was never told about the possibility of the failure of electronic locks, before my purchase.
@@thecars570 Just curious, who was the safe manufacturer? I’ve never heard of problems before and this concerns me as I have several safes with electronic locks…
Thank you so much for the tips! To me, the number 1 most safe tip is: Don’t let the 2nd person knows that you have gold and silver, including your parents and kids
Just some food for thought for people. This isn’t geared toward this safe because I know nothing about it. A lot of large “heavy duty” safes that have thick doors are just sheet metal wrapped around sheetrock and have thin side walls. Their fire rating is also usually not even rated for the normal working temperature of a typical house fire. Look for a safe with a higher fire rating in temperature and time, a door with a steel plate door and a thicker gauge of steel on the side walls. If I remember correctly a descent thickness for a steel plate door is around 3/8 inch. If I’m incorrect with that someone please correct me.
I just have an RSC (sturdy safe), mostly for guns. That said if I were buying now I’d hit up my local safe technician, who’s moved my gun safe a few times, for a line on a used commercial TL15 or TL30, he usually has some available, and for not all that much more than retail price from some of the higher end gun safes, and often with a real UL fire rating to boot. Unfortunately he’s said smaller high end safes are almost never on the market used, people don’t sell them.
Metal “Job Box” from Home Depot with 2 recessed carbide padlocks @$500 beats any sub &3000 safe IMO put a couple 50# lead weights and a couple hundred pounds of gold (ha eventually!) in it + the 300lbs of the box itself good luck moving it.
It’s be a lot easier if the price doesn’t shoot up anytime soon. It’s hard for poor people to stack gold and silver. Little by little we try but with prices going up, getting more people to be interested could go either way
The whole point is to offset the costs of even trying if a bulglar comes across your big safe they won't be able to move it and they don't know what's in it either would it be worth getting professionals in or comming back later when plenty of people leave their doors open and leave valuables laying around ? Probably not
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I think small well hidden caches might be more effective for some people, especially considering how little space gold takes up. The main risk is losing track of them.
A tip for apartment living on the second floor or people with lighter safe in general.
If on the second floor and cant go too heavy or bolt to the floor, use a hardened steel plate that is bigger than your door frame and bolt your safe to that. Carriage bolts going up from the bottom and secured from the inside. The bolt head is round on the bottom so they cant be removed without cutting. This works anywhere a safe is kept behind a door, not just apartments
Smart.
And then put a Eufy security camera on that safe and all around your house and property that way if someone does break in even if you are not home, you’ll know about it and can call the authorities and/or neighbors
I feel that with a $4500 safe I need to be protecting the safe more than what's inside 😂
Ha! 😅
I look at my safe and think, "some day i'm gonna fill you up" $3200 solid steel Sturdy co. safe with less then that in gun and ammo. but the family birth certificates are safe.
Lol 😆 🤣 😂
🤣
Excellent and helpful video for sure, I may end up with this safe as it seems practical and a good value.
Curious, what does 2 is 1 mean?
PS: Glad you like JM Bullion, they were my first online bullion dealer. I've been stacking now for a year and have purchased from several other online dealers as deals pop up, and to survey the good and the bad. My worst experience as far as coin condition goes would be with SD Bullion. Low prices, and even lower quality condition along with lower quality customer service. You being into buying gold for 15 yrs tells me the chances are good that I'm not telling you anything that you may already know.
Keep bringing us your perspective as I really appreciate it! 🤘😁🤘 CHEERS!
Fort Knox 7241 (means it’s 72 inches high by 41 inches wide). Weighs 2200 lbs. costs over $10,000. Considering what it stores…worth it. And it’s a beautiful piece, custom paint and gold leaf. It’s gorgeous.
Also where you put (hide) the safe makes a huge difference.
Building a fake wall/ or small room that just looks like a wall. Is great as well.
In my mind, security IS a BIG issue when it comes to protecting your valuables and it's a shame that people like 2 is1 can't upload an informative video like this without having a bunch of children make ridiculous comments without even knowing what they are talking about. 2 is 1, this was/is a great video, thanks for posting it, it should be viewed by anyone interested in keeping their metals SAFE. Getting a quality safe like this coupled with a good security/surveillance system, and you will sleep like a baby while away from home!😏
Right! It's not like all that information is online already.
Something often overlooked is will your safe and its contents survive the location you store it in a disaster? If it's in your bedroom that is above a basement, will it survive the fall when the bedroom floor fails during a fire? If its in your basement with it survive a flood? Not all flooded basements come from nature. I've seen basements have a couple feet of water in them from the fire department trying to put out or contain the fire.
Thats why my safe is on a concrete floor the same level as outside, it'll never flood in that spot and my safe won't have to survive fall damage in a fire.
Big fan of your videos.
To note, you correctly stated the most looted areas intruders go - master bedroom/master closet, and home office.
The least likely place is the pantry. Nobody wants to steal catfood. Fwiw.
Bottom of the bag of cat food it is! 😅
Thinking about these days and a pantry, I'm sure that some burglars would be happy to
cart off 200-300 lbs. of people food. They might just hit the freezer while they are at it.
Cat burglar might swipe the cat food tho 😝
Smart, but tell an heir so when u die, they don’t throw out “ expired food”! Lol
@@Sherry-tb9xz Just leave everything to the cat!!
I also recommend the Hollon line. Made in USA and good fire and secure ratings. I like the old style dial entry. And you’re right they are a pain to move.
Yeah, combinations are great for a few reasons. Cheers!
I have safe by a company called sturdy safe that I bought about 3 years ago. It was the thickest steel I could buy for the money and they do a fantastic job. They can build you basically whatever you want. 🤠
Sounds great. Cheers!
I got a sturdy about one year ago. delivered on time, no damage. bolt down install and got a few cool custom items. that thick steel needs a torch or plasma cutter. sad cause all I got in it is a few guns. can we all chant $1500 gold oz. I could buy one.
I feel like safes are one of those purchases you do a lot of research for and then commit to one, but it's difficult to have experience with many so you're going to defend whatever you purchased. With that said, I tinkered with a bunch in person and after a lot of research went with a Liberty Safe and have loved it for years.
You definitely get committed to a safe once they’re installed. They’re too heavy to break up with. Reminds me of a problem a college roommate had once. 😄
@@2is1gold 😂
Or buy used and focus on the cheapest safe you can find that is tl-15 or above. There’s not much research you can do as a consumer that will give you more insight than the official rating. Beware of safes that have no rating. It’s not just about the thickness of steel. Safes can have design vulnerabilities in the hinges, bars, and the linkages that interact with the lock. A poor design can enable dial punch attacks and such. The rating agency is allowed to review the design of the safe to devise their plan of attack. It’s not just a bunch of guys with drills, saws, and sledgehammers.
@@2is1gold Was she gold, silver or bronze? Cos she definitely wasn't tin 😂
Still feeling good about your Liberty Safe after the recent news?
Nesting doll scenario works quite well; a smaller safe for the PMs inside the bigger safe which is anchored to the slab that houses instruments of destruction. Not going to knock other options such as single, heavy, bolted down units in inconspicuous locations as each person's situation is unique. Don't believe there's a wrong way to go about it as most everyone is defending against the neighborhood's opportunistic vermin.
One thing we heard was the electronic key pads can be swapped from safe to safe providing they are of the same manufacturer. Not sure how true that is but it was interesting.
Cheers!
I don’t even need to watch before I comment, always excellent content, respect & love
Thanks, Don. Have a good weekend!
You could always fool the burglars by buying a second more impressive looking safe and keeping it completely empty. That way, they spend all their time trying to steal the distraction safe 😂.
That's actually not a bad idea. Just buy a cheap Made-in-China RSC gun "safe" (really just an oversized file cabinet) from one of the big box retailers and leave it in plain sight.
Thanks for another great video! I'm just getting into stacking, only have a couple grand in bullion so far, so simply hiding it is the most logical method for me at the moment. Can't wait til my nest egg warrants investing in a prime safe like this.
Stay safe, brother.
🤜🤛
I love nerding out on safes. I don't really know much about Gardall, but I agree with Hollon and AmSec as well as Ft Knox as quality safes. Have never seen a Graffunder but apparently their build tolerances are amazingly tight. The only thing I would add is if a person is looking for a good deal on a TL rated safe, there are some bargains to be had in the used safe domain. Oh, and the "Office Space" reference reminded me of the scene where Michael Bolton was printing something and it gave him the PC Load Letter error and he started swearing at it... so many gems in that movie.
That whole movie is gold.
Lol ! PC Load letter!!! Yeah, that movie is gold for sure. I still watch it from time to time. I think it's still free on TH-cam right now.
@@Freeeeeeeedoooooooom yea, that line totally resonated the first time I saw it as I was having my soul slowly drained by the bureaucracy succubus. Before "FIRE" was a term I put myself into artificial poverty by purchasing some land and saving a lot. I forgot the names of half the people in my office a week after I retired, they were literally drones to me.
I DO have a safe in my bedroom! A typical home safe. Contents: Old no longer used keys, some fake Krugerrands and a tiny amount of cash, silver and gold plated jewelry - just enough to make it convincible that it's all there is. Also useable in the event of a home robbery - okay then lets go open the safe! (fortunately not common in my country but there has been a few cases)
Does anybody know what level TL-15 corresponds to on the EN1143-1 scale ?
Smart.
I purchased an American Security BFX6024 Safe to put in my office, weight 751 lbs, and it will be bolted to the concrete floor. I wanted the BFX6032 but it wouldn't fit in the area I have to put it. I have a few guns, I'd feel much better getting out of the closet. Also, my favorite dog has always been the American Staffordshire Terrier, AKA Pit Bull, Guinness Stout would keep the bad guy occupied until the Ambulance showed up to stitch him back up.
Get some kangals. Forget those other dogs if you're looking for bite force
Interesting that you talk about this now. I've been looking at safe options because I've outgrown my old one. I guess it's time to go looking locally and see what I can easily find in my area. Thanks!
Good luck!
Good problem to have, huh ? lol
@@SilverBull30 It's not one you'll ever hear me complain about!😄
A great option for those who can't bolt a safe to the floor (rented apartments, etc.) is to simply weigh it down with lead. Lead is cheap, and very dense, and you can easily double or even triple the weight of you safe with it without taking up too much room. It also has the added benefit of concentrating the weight at the bottom, making it just that much harder to tip over.
I use copper heavy as hell not super cheap but yet another form of stacking so works for me 😂
I like copper! Would steal that! You can make knive scales and set out of copper! @@nathanhill6042
@@nathanhill6042 I just use platinum. It's not that cheap, but heavy as hell and does the trick..
Cast iron is the heaviest may need a forklift to move one
Wow, I'd love to hear more about the bottom of the lake issue. Never heard you speak of that before. Love your videos, Thank You for sharing your insight!!!
🤜🤛
Most people who stack will experience a boating accident sometimes in their lives. 😆
I would like hear that too.
My strategy is a heavy duty gun safe bolted to concrete (rated 60min fire) and within that safe another 1hr rated Honeywell 1114 fireproof safe where all the treasures live. This gives you significant fire resistance. There’s a great TH-cam video on the Honeywell where the dude throws it into a camp fire and recovers all items in tact. Double action / double eagle 🦅
I wish bolting these things down to concrete wasn't such a pain. I have a gun safe I want to move. I'm on year 3 of procrastination. 😄
Was there by test that replicate an actual house fire? I’ve been burned on products before that had videos of them doing similar things but I learned that is nowhere near the same thing
But great idea though I’ll probably do something similar thank you !(:
@@2is1gold It's not that hard to do, especially if you have a 1/2" hammer drill. If not, you can probably rent one for a few hours
for $50 or less. These work extremely well at boring holes in concrete. Put four 1/2" x 4-inch concrete anchors through the
bottom and / or back of the safe with large washers on them and you are good to go. I did just that at our previous home
in town and with 8 grade 8 4"x1/2" bolts and anchors, that safe wasn't going anywhere without a backhoe coming through
the wall to get it.
@@jackkleinke9232, Videos like anything can be rigged, faked, skewed, etc. I would strongly recommend visiting your local fire department, they love giving unbiased help and advice! No one knows better than how long a typical fire does damage in your neighborhood and to what extent, than those who fight them on a regular basis! Luckily one of the fire hydrants in our development is very close to me!
I have thought about putting a Burgwatcher royal cashbox inside of a safe something like you have there maybe. I figured I could make a special mounting plate that I could mount the cashbox to and drill a hole in that plate so I could utilize the bolt holes 🕳️ in the safe itself to secure the plate to the safe. I also thought about buying a big stealth safe or maybe an Am Sec. BWB cashiers safe and putting my cheap Sentury safe inside of it. The Sentury safe has an hour fire rating and I believe the stealth safe has a fire rating as well however the AM.SEC. BWB cash safe does not have any fire rating at all.I believe you can also buy special bags that give the fire proof ratings for an hour or two as well for extra sensitive extra important documents.
I think the best thing most can do is buy a small lock box to contain your metal and hide it where only you and one other person know and where most would not suspect. a safe might take 15 or 30 minutes to break into vs a package that might take double that to find, if it ever gets found. if u have millions of dollars of metal/property to store, ok, but for most people with 10s or a few 100 thousand I think hiding is best.
Basement buried in fresh concrete John Wick style is probably the coolest way to store it. :-)
Anyone who says otherwise eats paste.
What is the maximum weight that a floor in an average house can support without reinforcing the floor?
Hiding the safe is much important then the safe strength itself
Good info video. Some keep PMs in their gun safe. It's wise to bolt safe to floor or wall. Cheaper safes have thinner gauge sheet metal and less fire resistant time. Thin gauge safes can be broken into with long pry bar but it takes some time to bend the metal to open. l have a safe and also security cameras, door/window sensors which I think are good to have. A few security cameras don't cost a lot, self install is cheaper or pay to have them installed.
Even using a safety deposit box at a bank can be utilized but keep in mind that the bank doesn't insure the contents. But you can purchase insurance at reasonable rates through a 3rd party insurer that will cover the contents. Can be cheaper than using a vault service depending on value of the contents.
One drawback to Vaults and Safe deposit boxes is that you can only access them during business hours.
The best safe you can get for silver stacking is a really heavy secondhand one, from the 80s or 90s. People are practically giving those away, if you arrange and pay for the shipping. If you don't get it for free, you will pay no more than $100 - $1,000. $100 will buy you a 1,500 lbs safe and $800 - $1,000 will buy you a >4,500 lbs safe of the highest security rating that exist (same as used in actual banks). For added security you can disguise it as something else, for example as one of those huge disco bass speakers.
Keeping the goods safe is obviously super important. However, those small safes are dangerous imho. Large TL-30 is my favorite. Around 3k-4k lbs empty. Concrete lag bolts keep it in place. Like you said, with the proper equipment and enough time, a pro can get in. Cameras, alarms, dogs etc all help to keep them out in the 1st place.
Stashing your loot in a frozen turkey works too 🙃
As an aside, keeping some PM’s abroad is also a good idea. Cheers
Yeah, all good ideas. I have love/hate thing with 3,000 lb safes. :)
@@2is1gold It’s a forever spot! That’s for sure. 🙃
I’ve been on to the frozen meats and birds for decades 🤣
If it’s bolted down to concrete, it really doesn’t matter if it’s 500 pounds or 5000, it aint going anywhere.
Great Video! Super informative and PRACICAL. Thank You. Preciuos metals certianly justifies the cost of protection but the bonus is that these things (safes) hold so many other valuable, estate documents, passports, personal and private records, etc., etc., etc.. I am a believer that everyone should have safe staorge option available to them . It also aids in simply knowing where items are on that day you need to get to them... : ) Oh Honey, which draw did I put that in....
Absolutely. This was a long video already, but the interior organization is easy to nerd out on too. I have organizers, trays and fireproof bags and cases in my safes. I know right where passports are, I know right where birth certificates and hard copies of appraisals and wills are. I feel a lot better keeping all of that lined up and laid out in a heavy duty safe. Cheers!
Amsec TL 15 or TL30 are the way to go. With stairs and 4 guys at 850+ pounds are no joke to install.
Yessir! Suck to install, but they are there to stay once they're in!
I’ve heard TL-30 (maybe 15 too) can be insured by homeowners insurance since that’s the same security used by jewelry stores, etc.
Having more than one location I feel is a must.
I think it's important too. Cheers!
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience in this video!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I'll have to rethink my next safe purchase. I was looking at a Hollon HS-310E but may have to expand my budget.
🤜🤛
Maybe I went overboard but I bought a Liberty Presidential 50 safe a couple years ago. I needed the space for other things but my PMs live there too. It has something like a 2.5 hour fire rating and is made of 7 gauge steel. It weighs 1600 pounds so no real need to bolt it to the floor 😅
That’s great. Four guys and a hydraulic lift rig to move it in?
@@2is1gold ha you nailed it. Then the same when I re-did the floors. Cost me about $500 to move it 😓
I own a very old cary safe from 1890, changed the locking system for a new one! Weight 1000lbs 😂
Very cool.
2:49 Sentry Safes are also very good safes. As well as the ones you mentioned.
Got myself a 800lbs safe for insurance reasons along with a home alarm system with direct response action. Since gun laws is effed up here, not much else i can do except having my machetes accessible😅
I don't know man. After watching Lock Picking Lawyer for a while, the cereal box is sounding pretty good!
He’s got serious thievery skills if he ever goes that direction!
Proud to keep my precious metals in a fireproof safe...more valuable bigger size pieces in a fireproof lockbox in said safe. But better to have as I've said in the past. More than one location. Detachable garage...sister and brother in laws house. If so called"bad guy" wants the contents 1 movie title comes to mind. "Death Wish" great insight Dr. Gold have a WONDERFUL extra long weekend!!!
Yeah, have a good weekend!!
I currently rent so having a safe is out of the option. I do a hide in plain sight type of thing. Also, I have plans on splitting my stack and hiding it it in different spots as well as creating a few false easy targets that contain little to no value, but satisfies the burglar.
Thank you so much!!! Always appreciate your content.
Thanks! Have a good weekend!
If it saves a single oz it has paid for itself. Thank you for your time and effort.
We did an AMSEC BFII for your safe, mostly for gun. I have recently purchased some gold/silver that will go into it as well
A couple contrary points- My father in law's house was broken into. He had a super cheap gun safe. Think glorified filing cabinet. The thieves worked on it with a crowbar they got from his garage. They did not breach it. And they would have been disappointed if they had, his taste in guns reflect his taste in safes. Secondly, I moved 460 pound bluestone steps BY MYSELF with a 3 foot bar and some 1/2 inch pipe.(EMT to be specific) I had no trouble positioning a 400 pound gun safe in a friends garage with a similar method. Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum to rest it on and I shall move the earth. I'm more concerned about flood and fire than robbery, so my little guy was purchased because of its ratings in those departments.
Thank you for sharing. Great subject! This continues to be something that I ponder…
Thanks - have a good weekend!
@@2is1gold Thanks! You as well!
i use an inexpensive double-lock, fireproof safe. i also make damn sure it is anchored to the foundation of my house, and place it in an out of the way spot in my home.
So, I spent about $500 on a fire resistant gun safe that weighs about 350lbs dry. Bolted her in, got a monitored home security system and a permit with the city, and when I'm home, employ the 2A. Now, I could have gone with a Liberty or something far more costly, but the truth is, you can get into all of them with one method (should that one be chosen) in about 2 -5minutes. They all simply act as another barrier to theft and buy time. The chances are slim, and with the home security system, I'm thinking I'm probably good to go.
“Good enough” is going to be a personal call. I think the home security is probably more important too, but a TL-rated safe is a much different level of tool or mobility deterrence.
@@2is1gold It is TL-rated. But, that still only gives us a small amount of security. 2-5 minutes (done the right way) and we're screwed Man. They're in. At that point it's the game of do I or the cops get there first? They better hope the cops do ha ha.
@@elitefitness341don’t think you understood what he said. He’s referring to TL-15 rated safes and above. There’s a difference between UL-rated and TL-rated. Those are a whole different type of beast when it comes to safes. You can’t get a TL rated safe for under $1500 and they weigh 500 pounds minimum for a safe smaller than your microwave. It’s no small amount of security. The doors start with 2 inches of plate steel, at minimum.
@@SergiuM42 You are correct. But I know exactly what he's saying. What I meant is, is that if one knows how, you can penetrate a safe with a few options of specific tools easily picked up at many stores. Of course, I'm not going to say what they are for obvious reasons. TL is great, but it's not what many people think it is was my point. It takes minutes to get into pretty much any safe and that is the unfortunate reality. Luckily most thieves can't even penetrate any safe efficiently with even a crow bar. Which is not even a good option to be honest.
For the past few months I have been hot and cold about buying a quality safe but I finally made up my mind so today I am sitting here looking at the safe I had delivered trying to figure out how to get it off it's back! It started out upright but one slip on the hand dolly and it was on it's back. Like 2 is 1, I did a lot of shopping around and made my choice based mainly on two things; 1. It must not be able to be dragged out of it's location and being 710 pounds soon to be bolted down to concrete that will NOT be an issue! I used the value of two gold coins as an amount not to exceed (I figured now that I have a few coins and a bar or two along with other valuables, why not INVEST in a safe that will NOT allow anyone breaking into it or taking it away!
As 2 is 1 says, stay away from the junk safes that can be carried away. I bought the AMSEC CEV1814 TL-15 with the glass re-locker which is 23.5" T x 19.5" W x 21" D but with 5 1/5" steel and concrete walls all around and a 6 1/2" thick door the usable space is 18" x 14" x 12" which doesn't sound like much but it holds more than I thought. The best thing I like about the safe is that I know my things will be safe and not have to worry if it got stolen when I was away or someone took a grinder or cutter to the walls. Peace of mind is what it is all about! Now if I can just figure out how to get it upright so I can move it into place (I thought I knew how much 710 pounds is? I was wrong!)
That is a great safe, and they are terrible to move. Probably worth calling a moving company. They’d make short work of it. Might save you a broken foot!
You are hilarious... those little side comments! Thanks for the video... very helpful!
Thank you!
My Vault Pro safe is a beast. Made in California. Veteran owned.
🤜🤛
I have the same safe with a mechanical dial. It's awesome and yet small enough to hide. Also, people need to have an alarm system. It's all about reducing the amount of time a burglar as to steal stuff.
I like Hollon a lot. AMSEC and Gardall are nicer, but they can cost twice as much.
@@2is1gold For sure, I ordered mine on Amazon. The price was competitive and you get 5% back if you use a Prime credit card. They had a to have a special truck and crew drop it off.
I would layer on top of monitored security alarm a good solid door/door locks and security film. 3M makes good security film but it’s damn expensive. Watch the videos on their products, the price you pay may be worth it to protect you, your family and your PM.
decoy safe is good option also. nice cheap small carry away safe. theft finds it carries away and is happy. but what did he get?
Used coloring books?
I’m not breaking in to crack your beautiful safe! I’m breaking in to read your Easton Press 📚leather bound collection while drinking a whisky 🥃 neat.
2 is 1 arrives home: “Oh! You must be the English Professor!” 😂
Here’s how I do it: I use cheap $100.00FRN’s/USD safes.
All the bathroom & closet doors as well as the bedroom doors have key’ed lock handle/handsets.
I have a go-to bolted-to-a-shelf safe in a hall-way closet. In case of a home-invasion ROBBERY? It’s the premeditated “sacrificial safe”.
Then? I have a safe bolted into a void-space inside the HVAC Ceiling air-handler unit.
Additionally?? In the fur-down soffit build-outs in the kitchen (above the kitchen cabinets)?, I’ve created a fake HVAC vent cover hiding a built-in safe.
Then?, I have a safe bolted to the wall & shelf underneath the Master-Bathroom vanity.
Additionally? I have a safe in “HER” closet & then a built-in safe in my closet behind my Ron Paul for President campaign sign.
Lastly?? There’s the one inside the very top cabinet in the utility Washer/Dryer room.
We also have about 1 dummy in-the-wall false-outlet boxes in every room.
All this? Inside a 1000Sq.Ft. 2/2 condo
That oughta do it! 😅
When you die your kids are gonna have a hell of a time 😂😂😂 what are you preparing for?!?!😂
This information is very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I have been in the market for a decent safe for some coins and some other things you have made my mind up I have had my eye on that certain one that you have in the video that's the 1 I'm gonna get thank you
TL-15, or TL-30. Anything else, and you're not protected. Bolt it to concrete floor, in a corner. It weighs 500-600 lbs or so. I think a RSC rated safe can be breached in 5 minutes. And anything from a big box store is garbage. The door of a safe is about 1/3 the total weight. You take the door off to make easier to move/install
AMSEC guy here! I have a few and had to have them "installed". Very happy with them! I prefer the standard dial as opposed to the digital. Keep your mouth shut!!!!!!
Yep, yep and yep.
The biggest risk for me is girl friends, X girl friends, X wives, wives, kids or Step-kids, loose lips sink ships etc. How many of those risks do I have you might ask?? I do use a small safe for very temporary storage. I cannot risk storing valuables like gold or cash in my house. How hard would it be for a bad guy to force me to open the safe no matter how secure it is? I live in a third world country where security has to be taken seriously. In my case its just more prudent to use a private vault.
That makes perfect sense.
Either no one knows or its offsite at a degree. Gold, guns even crypto, they will just start cutting your fingers off until you open it. Insane diminishing returns after just removing basic opportunity of theft.
I just make it a point to have ostentatious neighbors - puts their fingers at risk over mine. 😄
@@2is1gold love it hah. Thanks for the great videos
I like that micro case idea. I typically use my food saver to vacuum seal my tubes. Probably still will. I have a couple of Pelican cases in the 1200 size I use as travel humidors on long trips. They are almost 30 years old now. Great product.
I love Pelican cases.
Solid advice, well said friend.
Thanks!
🤣😭I’m weak(“Don’t rob me”)!!!
😂🤜🤛
Great video. Interesting to read the various comments.
The comments always make these videos more helpful.
I like the combination locks, because I am worried about EMPs.
Yeah, anything I mentioned comes in that option. Cheers!
I really enjoy your videos. Very well put together. You seem to enjoy nicer things. If you don't mind me asking... what do you do for a living or what do you attribute your success to?
He won’t tell you. Settle in. The mystery is what keeps us coming back. 🕵🏼♀️ ❓
@@theenglishprofessor8411 He sells shotguns out of the trunk of his car. lol. He seems to be doing alright. The videos are always interesting.
Is your Hollon safe doing well? Are there any problems with that safe we should consider before purchasing it? I work for a living and we live paycheck to paycheck I can’t afford something that needs worked on all the time. I was thinking an electronic lock safe would be convenient, so as long as they hold up well.
Good Points! I watch that guy who opens every safe they give him so I don't really trust them, yet I own them. Silly me.
If Lock Picking Lawyer ever turns to a life of crime, we’re all in trouble!
@@2is1gold Fingers crossed!!! lol
Very informative video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
IMO, it's mistake to think that being heavy will protect a safe from being hauled away. While that does add a complication to the job,
it's not that hard for one man to move a 450# safe with a heavy duty hand truck. I know because I did that when I helped my son put
his new 24-gun safe in at his previous house. He was under the house getting the area ready for the safe and bolting it down while I
moved the safe from the foyer about 30 feet to and down a hallway to get it near the closet where it would be installed. Once the safe
was tipped back a little, I got the load plate of the hand truck under it and was able to pull the safe toward me enough to get its
weight onto the hand truck. After that it was slow but smooth going with no stairs or other obstacles. So, am I a tough guy? No, not
really. But at 6' 2" and 235 lbs. I have some size to me and the strength that goes with it but I was also packing 65 years of living with
that. A 20-30 something burglar would have had no trouble with this at all, unless he was pretty thin.
24 gun at 450lbs is a big box store safe. They have really thin metal and a hollow door. A quality 24 gun safe should weigh more like 1500 to 2000.
Center of gravity and leverage come into play. That 250 lb safe is only 18” high. Same with the 450 lb TL-15 version. Maybe a scholar can jump in to explain the math here, but they just don’t tip back the same. And then it’s bolted down. And the heavier the safe, the harder it is to pop the lag bolts. It’s a good idea to not keep a hand truck around for a thief to use, though. Cheers!
@@delav83 One buys what one can afford. This safe was not the only security system involved.
@@2is1gold "Center of gravity and leverage come into play."
Yes, they do, because the height of the safe provides the lever arm when one is trying to tip it. My basic
comment was to show people that merely being heavy isn't the only protection from theft that a safe needs.
Bolting it to solid concrete is a very good deterrent to theft, especially if both the bottom and the back are
bolted to the concrete floor and the concrete wall behind the safe. While not everyone has both floors
and walls of concrete, those who do should take advantage of the extra protection these provide.
Agree on the hand truck and also some rather nifty safe openers like a grinder with metal cutting wheels.
Anyone having such a tool is advised to keep the cutting wheels for it inside the safe. 😉
@@delav83 His point was it weighs 450 lbs.
Enjoyed the video! Also, I’ve purchased one of those mint tubes to fill as a goal of mine and when I put the few buffalos that I have in there, I noticed it was kind of forced to get them in and also out. I also noticed the edges get a little dinged. Is that something you experience?
Yes. I don't like Mint tubes for Buffalos unless they're staying in it.
also, ammo cases work great for storage!
Agreed!
Never wake Board with a tube of gold buffalos. The tragedy isn’t that it happened and I lost that tube once. It is that I’ve done it 3 times. I know, you are right. I really do enjoy wake boarding.
It’s a hard lesson to learn. 😄
ping
i bought this 5 years ago. Weighs 90 pounds. Suits me alright and gets the job done. Amazon Basics Fire Resistant Security Safe with Programmable Electronic Keypad - 2.1 Cubic Feet, 16.93 x 25.98 x 13.8 inches
How much does it cost?
@@davidhimmelfahrt3732 $260.89
problem with valuables in that, theft can just carry away open later. or since walls are thin a small carry grinder will cut 14 gauge steel .07 inches in short order. same with box store $2k gun safes, composite door is really thin metal with concrete or something in between and is easy to cut open. you want .25 inch or more of SOLID steel if you gonna use it for anything worth $.
@@ChainsawKLOBYK tbh, i don't store my PM and valuables onsite at my home. this one i just use for my junk silver bag that i like to play with and some petty cash on hand. If it were to get stolen it would suck, but it wouldn't devastate me.
@@MilqueMoney that's affordable.
Just curios as to why you didn't go with a TL safe? Spending the extra $1000-$1500 would be safe insurance for the amount of gold that you have. I'm trying to decide between the two myself. I'm leaning towards the TL safe but would love to hear your thoughts. Great video as always!!!!
My primary is a TL-rated safe from one of the other brands. It cost around $2,500 at the time and required pros to move it in. I was looking recently and saw the same safe more or less for nearly $4,000. So, the counterpoints to the much heavier TL safes is cost and convenience. I'd do it again, but I really like the RSC or fire & burglary safes if I can afford to lose what's inside it. Cheers!
@@2is1gold is there a service where the installers wear blindfolds while lugging it in?
Mostly kidding, but any worries about showing the installers your safe spot?
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I’m only 20 and would like to start saving money outside of the bank for my kid incase anything happens to me or when my time comes… I don’t know much about saving in precious metals and would like to start but don’t know if I should wait to start as well
Excellent 👍 video
Also beautiful Safe storage locker 🛅
Beautiful tray 📤, Red Storage Box and Blue Storage Box
Thanks!
Ball's ! A Veery ,Very Big set of Ball's !!
💯
Love the video 📹 !
I will get there one day .
Great video as always 2 is 1! Just out of interest what size air tite red capsule tube is in the pelican case and which pelican case is the blue one?
Thanks!
The Pelican case is here: amzn.to/3r6HtUd
The Air-Tite tube is here: amzn.to/3F1FYgX
Cheers!
Something to consider………………………
The electronic key pads WILL fail, it’s just a question of when, and when that happens, the safe will have to be drill out to replace the keypad.
The old fashioned mechanical dials, take a little longer to open, but never fail and will last 100years +.
Another option is to buy a used jewelers safe.
These can be found at local locksmith shops
These are T30-T60 and originally cost over $10k, but can be bought used for $1,000-$1,700.
They jeweler/business safes are 1,500-3,000 lbs and would require you to pay to have them delivered.
Good idea. I've tried to find used safes a few times now, personally, but have never found anything good. Maybe I'm not trying hard enough.
@@2is1gold
Perhaps availability of the used commercial safes are dictated by your area.
Living near a large city increases one’s chances.
I also find these used safes on Facebook market and Craig’s list for free, but you have to be able to move a 2,000 lb safe.
I’ve had S&G electronic locks on my gun safes for 25 years with no problems. What fails on electronic locks?
@@barryh861
I’ve had the same electronic lock as you fail after about 12 years.
It was covered under my safe’s 50 year warranty, but a safe cracker had to come to the safe and drill to get in.
I asked the manufacturer if this is common for these locks to fail, and they said they all fail in time.
I had them install a manual dial lock instead, so I wouldn’t be locked out again.
I just wanted to give a heads up to anyone looking to buy a safe as I was never told about the possibility of the failure of electronic locks, before my purchase.
@@thecars570 Just curious, who was the safe manufacturer? I’ve never heard of problems before and this concerns me as I have several safes with electronic locks…
Thank you so much for the tips! To me, the number 1 most safe tip is: Don’t let the 2nd person knows that you have gold and silver, including your parents and kids
Office Space! Great movie.
One of the best! 😄
"Not big on cereal"... that's hilarious
Just some food for thought for people. This isn’t geared toward this safe because I know nothing about it. A lot of large “heavy duty” safes that have thick doors are just sheet metal wrapped around sheetrock and have thin side walls. Their fire rating is also usually not even rated for the normal working temperature of a typical house fire.
Look for a safe with a higher fire rating in temperature and time, a door with a steel plate door and a thicker gauge of steel on the side walls. If I remember correctly a descent thickness for a steel plate door is around 3/8 inch. If I’m incorrect with that someone please correct me.
Yeah, this is why I look higher up the lines for fire & burglary, RSC or TL-rated safes. They exceed those numbers using steel and concrete. Cheers!
@@2is1gold I had never heard of that brand safe before today. Thanks for sharing!
An AR15 and a bad guy that needs a lot of time to open your safe is not a good combination.
I just have an RSC (sturdy safe), mostly for guns. That said if I were buying now I’d hit up my local safe technician, who’s moved my gun safe a few times, for a line on a used commercial TL15 or TL30, he usually has some available, and for not all that much more than retail price from some of the higher end gun safes, and often with a real UL fire rating to boot. Unfortunately he’s said smaller high end safes are almost never on the market used, people don’t sell them.
I can see why they don't go on the market. Moving them is the worst part, and you can always use another safe. Cheers!
Metal “Job Box” from Home Depot with 2 recessed carbide padlocks @$500 beats any sub &3000 safe IMO put a couple 50# lead weights and a couple hundred pounds of gold (ha eventually!) in it + the 300lbs of the box itself good luck moving it.
i have old bank antique safe
I am from singapore. I love your content so much brother!
Hey, thank you! 🤜🤛
Tuesday was delivery day here = Patriot Safe TY 40- 905 lbs. bolted to garage concrete floor Bro 😎.
Nice! 💪
We have a surprising number of saliors in this community. We'd have our own armada if it weren't for all the boating accidents.
It's true. Epidemic really.
I always wanted a huge house with a secret room.
It’s be a lot easier if the price doesn’t shoot up anytime soon. It’s hard for poor people to stack gold and silver. Little by little we try but with prices going up, getting more people to be interested could go either way
The whole point is to offset the costs of even trying if a bulglar comes across your big safe they won't be able to move it and they don't know what's in it either would it be worth getting professionals in or comming back later when plenty of people leave their doors open and leave valuables laying around ? Probably not
Build the safe into the wall or really bolt it down good. thieves can be determined.