UPDATE: July 11th of 2022. This is still my favorite stain for all of my wooden hive equipment. NOTE: glue up your joints prior to staining the wood. I did a few treatments prior to assembly, but that's not the best way to go as some wood may warp. Glue up and assemble all hive boxes, shims, slatted racks, and bottom boards. After the glue has dried up, then you can dunk all of your woodenware in Eco-Wood. No rot, no deterioration at all. Mann Lake plywood bottom boards do not last, they did de-laminate in one year of exposure, so those may need to be painted/sealed... or just select solid wood bottom boards and it lasts very well. I'm still a fan of this finish. NOTE ABOUT MIXING -This listing states that is it 5 gallons, thanks to one of my viewers, it's actually 5 "imperial gallons", which translates to 6 U.S. Gallons of the finished product. amzn.to/3AHOKRU
intersting apart from that im in a region that is ag ie agriculture ie dairy and vegie farms mining etc en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_West_(Western_Australia) Climate The South West has a Mediterranean climate, with dry summers and wet winters.[2] There is about 900 mm of precipitation per year, with most between May and September.[3] Mean maximum daily temperatures range from 16 °C in July to 34 °C in February. Economy The economy of the South West is very diverse. It is a major world producer of aluminium oxide and mineral sands, and also has substantial agriculture, timber, and viticulture industries. It is Western Australia's second-most popular tourist destination after Perth.
Is it still holding up? I was planning on using eco-wood for my boxes but came across a TON of people saying that it was a terrible treatment and all of their eco-wood treated bee boxes started rotting after a couple of years.
I bought some and was looking it back up to see if it had to be non-chlorine water they’re was a lot said they lasted about a year to two, and where the joint went together they started coming apart There was a lot that said they painted over top of it and got a couple more years out of it. They would not be using Eco wood treatment any longer. So I am curious if it is still helping up as well
@@feliciachitwood9400 It's holding up fine for me here. NO rot or degradation. You do have to glue up all joints well prior to using the Eco-Wood. It remains my favorite wood treatment. You do have to stabilize all joints etc, it's a treatment, not a finish. I also did several benches and bird boxes, all are holding up fine.
I used this product earlier in the year. It very acidic or very basic, I could feel it on my hands. So gloves reqd people. It sheds water very nicely. I wish I had used this on slatted bottom boards. Latex paint filled between the slats and it holds water like a solid bottom board. Sigh. Had a great year and the ladies treated me well during the flow! Central New Jersey.
@@FrederickDunn do they each have matching sets of flow frames? If so, that's wonderful. I have 3 sets, 1x 6 in an 8 frame cedar and 2x 7 in 10 frame modified langstroth boxes as per Stu's instructions.
I started using eco this season. Love it. I mix in a gallon jug. It is suppose to last 1 year after mixing. I just used the last of the gallon on the boxes I purchased this season. Great product.
That's what it said on the package. I got the single pack from Central Beekeepers Supply to try. He had a video on it as well. You confirmed it for me. Thanks
Well shoot. I only just caught your Q&A featuring the poly-whey product. I was liking the idea it was going into the wood more than acrylic. Plus they had a new green color.
@@FrederickDunn I'm going to dip some new HillCo boxes (mediums and deeps) I'm still screwing together with some new solid (cedar) landing boards from BetterBee in ECO Wood Treatment. I'm mixing the treatment with an olive tint made by Mixol. I can't get away from Marine Corps roots Chief. Or should I call you Senior or Master Chief? HOOYAH!
BTW, some of the deeps are being prepped for all season top feeders with BeeSmart insulated inner covers and BeeMax outer covers. (I wonder where I got these ideas from?) I painted the outer covers OD already and put them on this week. Very nice piece of gear. I'm also using deeps because in this build because the new 3-season feeders are taller and I'm cutting the vertical plastic tabs so I can butt the inner cover with the box. That's if all goes to plan. If it doesn't, I'll throw them in a pile with some thermite. YUT!!
Thanks for sharing! I use Raw Linseed Oil on outside and then I "toast" the inside and outside with torch. It's an 18th Century technique from Japan called. shou sugi ban. I never want to put the oil on the inside!! But the EcoWood looks great and I may try it... I still like the look of my toasted hive bodies.. But.. it takes do much more work(torching, wire brushing, sanding)... compared to uour method.
Oooh I bet shou sugi ban beehives would look pretty cool... but yeah, that would be a TON of work to do. Are you saying you put the linseed oil on before you burn the boards? I thought the boards were typically oiled afterwards to seal. What is the benefit of doing it before? Also, I love linseed oil, but raw linseed oil takes forever to cure lol. Anyway, I would love to see your hives, I bet they are beautiful.
I grabbed a searzall heated the wood and threw filtered beeswax on top and it soaked it all up after the wood stopped bubbling from the moisture trapped in the wood. Nice bosch
BTW Fred- That package says it should be mixed with 1 Imperial Gal. It's made in Canada and I think that is Brittish measurement. One Imp gal is a little more than 9.5 pints. One gallon American is 8 pints. I look forward to mopping my FHs with it soon. Thanks for your wonderful videos and interviews:)
I think for reptile habitats you'll want to look past the wood preservation and consider your ability to clean the interior surfaces. This seems to provide a porous surface that could be a cleaning/disinfecting challenge for a high humidity enclosure. Just something to think about :)
@@FrederickDunn I should have specified: This wouldn't be used in the environmental envelope. I'm having a pickle finding finishes that I can be confident are safe to protect the carcass and make it look 'pretty.' Knowing how sensitive our bee friends are, if you and others are having good results with this product: It's more good data for me. I haven't settled on a safe wood species as of yet. Incidentally, almost all species of common wood hive box is 'toxic' to most reptiles (in particular cedars and pines). I like the patina/colour the Eco leaves the wood, but I think I'll have to make test blanks. Cheers, Mr Dunn!
Hi Brian, I do show the boxes from time to time. It's great at preventing any kind of rot, not good for laminates, and won't prevent warping. So the wood still needs to be glued up well prior to treatment. Today I use it on all of my wooden hives.
Everyone is talking about how good this product is, so this year I decided to try it on my nucleus boxes. I figured I put it into the test myself. Anyway I noticed on the package you showed to the camera it says 5 lmp gallons. That’s 6 US gallons. I mixed that with 6 gallons of distilled water. I’m pretty sure it’s not big of a deal, you would just have one more extra gallon of the solution.
Wow, you're right! I'm looking at the listing right now, and it says it's for 5 gallons, but then you look at he package is it's 5 Impgl. You are the first to point that out! Thank you! www.homedepot.com/p/Intl-Eco-Wood-Treatment-5-gal-Exterior-Interior-Wood-Stain-and-Preservative-EWT-5/203077395
So I got the 5 gal treatment. Already mixed 5 gal to find out it should of been 6. I guess I'll leave it at 5 cause I've already dipped 4 boxes 3 bottom boards and 2 top covers. The manufacturer needs to do a little better on there instruction. I've been looking for a dip time. They say a few minutes. So I soaked mine 3min each side. I'll know better on mixing next time thanks Fred and KingpinRebel.
not sure if anyone mentioned it but you can mix this up and take it to home depot and ask the paint department to tint it for you if you'd like to get some other color besides the weathered silver. Home depot sells it online so they should do it for free if you bought it from them. Not sure if they'll do it if you buy elsewhere, or maybe they'll just charge you a little for it?
I use food grade Tung Oil. Probably a lot more expensive. Tung oil requires reapplication every spring as well. As always Fred, great video! Of note: I closed up all upper vents this past winter and had 100% survival on all hives. The University of Minnesota is STILL fighting me at Beelab (check their website for winter hive recommendation PDF) stating that I'm doing it wrong as an upper vent is a MUST for getting rid of moisture. These are PHD bee experts! Old traditions cloud scientists even!
We can just sit back and let the Phd clan battle with one another. Lots of solid science behind the single entrance with no upper venting, partnered with the current studies about the varroa not being able to cope with the low 02 levels and high humidity. Part of the problem is that different climates and humidity levels can also come into play. Insulated covers for starters and a way for excess moisture do run off is also key. I'll sip my cappuccino and observe the debate as it continues. Here in the snowbelt, I've had great success and more resource conservation in the hive with insulated covers and no upper venting.
@@FrederickDunn I agree with you and my own trials here have proven your hypothesis true for my girls. My fellow beek 2 miles north of me lost 90% with upper vents open, but heavy insulation wraps and bags of fall leaves as wind break insulation around his hives. He's going to try no upper vents and insulated covers. I throw a moisture board and then an insulated cover. I can't thank you enough for your observations Fred!!
I have.been using this for a couple of years and I am very pleased with how it looks and how it holds up. I use the same dipping method with my equipment assembled. I do use a brush rather than a roller.
I used this product two years ago on multiple chicken tractors. Two years later, the wood looks amazing and I never have to reapply. Did you apply this to the roof of the Flow Hive? Or use another product?
I used it on everything. I don't currently use the Flow-Hive gabled roofs as I'm using insulated material, but may go back when I come up with other insulation options.
What type of wood were your chicken tractors made of? I may have to try this stuff out in the future. I saw a different video a couple of days ago of someone else using this stuff and it caught my eye. Kinda wondering if white paint might help more with keeping them cool in the winter and other stuff like stopping carpenter bees from chewing them up, but I love the beauty of bare wood...
@@johnandjacquelinewarren9979 We used whatever Lowes had in Texas- most likely fir. We had untreated 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, and plywood. It doesn’t work well with plywood, but we still used it. The wood still looks the same as it did 2 years ago. The flow hive looks beautiful and I didn’t paint the roof, just used the stain. I anticipate the stain will hold up the same as it has with the chicken tractor.
Hello! Love your channel. I'm having a weird problem with one of my hives that doesn't seem to progress as faster as the other hives beside it. I guessed it had little population so I added a frame full of brood to help them. All of the brood turned into bees but the cells were left empty with no eggs of nectar stored in. The old comb however is still full of bees.
Thanks Fred for all your helpful information! I've looked through the thread on this but would like to know what the "Jedi Bee Master" thinks🙂. I have used the eco on my Layens hive and although it is very good stuff it doesn't address any cracking or weathering and I'm wondering if I should be putting some sort of sealer on top of that? Probably not and they'll do just fine because of they way they are designed but I wonder if/when there will be a need to do some work on the outside wood of the Layens that have been Eco'd at some point and how long out would that be? Thanks again!
If your Layens if made from any plywood material, you'll need exterior quality paint or some other finish. It's more a treatment than a finish, but mine have weathered ok.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you, I've got the 20-frame insulated from Dr. Leo and have only Eco'd them so I'll let them "bee" and see what happens over time, should be ok at least for a few years but will see. I do like the way that product looks.
Thanks. I was wondering though, do you think I could varnish over the top of it? I don't really want the old look. I want something that looks "fancy and new" rather than the weathered look.
@@FrederickDunn thanks for the quick reply. Have you tried varnish? Or even hot dipped? Do you think that any of these are reasonable choices for fairly long term looking good?
Works on any exposed untreated wood. The Flow-owners had some specific concerns with all of the moving parts which are not associated with standard Langstroth hives. Removable panels on the sides and back offer challenges when it comes to preserving the wood. Flow Hives represent a tiny part of the beekeeping equipment that most keepers encounter.
I have not painted any of the eco-wood treated wood. You can go to their website regarding compatibility with other finishes. When I use it, it's with nothing else.
Wax is a finish, this is a treatment. No rot, but Eco-Wood does not stablize the material the way paint or wax dipping would. They can still warp or split.
I was wondering about this stuff. Thanks Fred. I first saw it being used on a log home. Does it color all woods the same? By the way, I feel that Learning is always worth the time spent doing so.
Hey Frederick. I'm thinking about getting this for my new FlowHive2 I just ordered. (another hive!!!!) Will the 1 gallon packet be enough to three deep boxes, base and roof? Also, does this waterproof the wood? Or just treat if from rot and mold?
One gallon is definitely enough for three boxes and more. I notice that the water does "bead" a little on the wood, but you wouldn't necessarily consider it water"proof", however, it's definitely wood protection. For example, is you had pressure treated wood, it gets exposed to repeated wet/dry cycles without deteriorating and that's what this does.
Hi Fred! Just came across your video. I just got my first Flow hive, a 7 frame classic made from Araucaria. I was going to have the hive dipped, but now that I have seen this video, I am considering Eco Wood since it is cheaper and is something I can do myself. What are your thoughts on Eco Wood vs wax dipped? Additionally, I see on Mann Lake's website that they recommend gluing all joints before applying Eco Wood to prevent warping. What has been your experience with this?
Yes, glue all joints first, I personally really like the look of the Eco-wood finished hives as they are dark and blend with the countryside :) It's my current favorite finish for hive equipment.
@@FrederickDunn thanks. My old hive is empty and has honeycomb on the 3 middle frames, can i put those in the brood box on the Flow Hive 2+ and add the 3lbs of Italians bees/queen to it or should i just put the frames in that came with the flow?
I think it really comes down to your personal economic situation. They are expensive, so for those on a budget, I recommend testing out how enthusiastic you're going to be about beekeeping first. BUT, if you're not concerned about cost and know that bees are definitely in your future then I'd go ahead with a flow-super. Beginning beekeeping is going to be the same with or without flow-supers.
"Eco Wood Treatment is a powder composed of natural substances from minerals. It contains no solvents and leaves no harmful residue in water or soil. It is safe to use on retaining marts, or any structure that penetrates into the soil or into the water.contains only 100% organic compounds" That's a quote from the company.
@@FrederickDunn nah. Not on bone dry rough surface cedar wood. I have boxes that I build 6 years ago and have no sign of rotting. But also I gave the 2 thick applications only on the outside.
Back in the early 80's it was my favorite finish, but takes several coats and dries very slow annnd I had to refresh it frequently when exposed to the elements. But for the patient, it's a good finish. Don't put any cotton rags that are soaked with Tung Oil in the trash as you risk spontaneous combustion.
@@FrederickDunn my i wouldnt use rags id use a fhome brush ps hows your flowhives doing and are you looking forword to msome intersting flows and nector ps unfortunatly thars s is a militent animal rights groyup calld aussie farms in who changed thare nsame to farmers transparentcy who target farmers and beekeepers some western australian beekeeping places have been listed on thare map pps keep up the grat vids mate i love your q&a vids vary intersting i have medatarainan wather but meditatranian isnt stated any more nowe its just sub tropical
Are you sure that it is" perfectly safe around honey bees"? I tried to find out what was contained in this product but the company website doesn't say, except to repeat claims from "independent laboratory testing" that it is natural, organic and non toxic... However, I did see a post referencing the manufacturers safety data sheet, stating that the product is " a disodium octoborate tetrahydrate/ boron/ boric acid system ... with additive chemicals that allow it to not be washed out by affecting the wood tannins." These substances are minerals so they do qualify as natural, also organic and they have very low or no toxicity for mammals. But they ARE insecticides....and this treatment method involves treating the inside of the hive. I would be cautious, treat only the outside of the hive. And as a matter of principle I would never use any prduct near my bees, unless I knew what it actually contained.
I see no evidence that it's detrimental to the bees inside or out. It's been in use for years by beekeeping operations that are much larger than mine. If you have evidence that it's in any way harmful to the bees, send me the link to the information. I will be happy to post any evidence that the bees will be injured by contact with eco-wood. Representatives from the company sent me lists of beekeeping operations that use this treatment and have done so for years. I'm always open to science. I would not promote something proven to be harmful to honey bees.
@@FrederickDunn So the company sent you material to enable you to promote them? Could you please ask them exactly what chemicals are in the product? Placing insecticidal products on the inside of a beehive is not a good idea, no matter that it is organic, natural or non toxic to mammals. They might not kill bees but a potential steady drag on their health is not a good idea. In my view, I would only use something in a beehive that is known to be safe to bees. An unknown product that has not been proven to be toxic doesn't cut it for me.
UPDATE: July 11th of 2022. This is still my favorite stain for all of my wooden hive equipment.
NOTE: glue up your joints prior to staining the wood.
I did a few treatments prior to assembly, but that's not the best way to go as some wood may warp.
Glue up and assemble all hive boxes, shims, slatted racks, and bottom boards. After the glue has dried up, then you can dunk all of your woodenware in Eco-Wood.
No rot, no deterioration at all.
Mann Lake plywood bottom boards do not last, they did de-laminate in one year of exposure, so those may need to be painted/sealed... or just select solid wood bottom boards and it lasts very well.
I'm still a fan of this finish.
NOTE ABOUT MIXING -This listing states that is it 5 gallons, thanks to one of my viewers, it's actually 5 "imperial gallons", which translates to 6 U.S. Gallons of the finished product. amzn.to/3AHOKRU
intersting apart from that im in a region that is ag ie agriculture ie dairy and vegie farms mining etc en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_West_(Western_Australia) Climate
The South West has a Mediterranean climate, with dry summers and wet winters.[2] There is about 900 mm of precipitation per year, with most between May and September.[3] Mean maximum daily temperatures range from 16 °C in July to 34 °C in February.
Economy
The economy of the South West is very diverse. It is a major world producer of aluminium oxide and mineral sands, and also has substantial agriculture, timber, and viticulture industries. It is Western Australia's second-most popular tourist destination after Perth.
@FrederickDunn does this include the Australian Araucaria wood?
Is it still holding up? I was planning on using eco-wood for my boxes but came across a TON of people saying that it was a terrible treatment and all of their eco-wood treated bee boxes started rotting after a couple of years.
I bought some and was looking it back up to see if it had to be non-chlorine water they’re was a lot said they lasted about a year to two, and where the joint went together they started coming apart There was a lot that said they painted over top of it and got a couple more years out of it. They would not be using Eco wood treatment any longer.
So I am curious if it is still helping up as well
@@feliciachitwood9400 It's holding up fine for me here. NO rot or degradation. You do have to glue up all joints well prior to using the Eco-Wood. It remains my favorite wood treatment. You do have to stabilize all joints etc, it's a treatment, not a finish. I also did several benches and bird boxes, all are holding up fine.
Great glad to see you again
This is the most helpful demo of this product that I've come across. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
@@FrederickDunn Very much so! And I appreciate finding your pinned comment containing an update and assembly suggestion also. "Bee" well! 🐝
Thanks for sharing Fred. That looks like it would be faster then painting. I will have to try that next year.
Yes, faster than painting and no clean up.
I used this product earlier in the year. It very acidic or very basic, I could feel it on my hands. So gloves reqd people.
It sheds water very nicely. I wish I had used this on slatted bottom boards. Latex paint filled between the slats and it holds water like a solid bottom board. Sigh.
Had a great year and the ladies treated me well during the flow! Central New Jersey.
Thanks for sharing
Hello Fred! This is great, can't wait to see how this weathers in a few years.
Man, Frederick you have a lot of Flow super boxes. That Eco wood treatment looks great. Thank you.
I like the Flow-Supers so that I can just add them to whatever Langstroth colony that seems to be really bringing in the honey. :)
@@FrederickDunn do they each have matching sets of flow frames? If so, that's wonderful. I have 3 sets, 1x 6 in an 8 frame cedar and 2x 7 in 10 frame modified langstroth boxes as per Stu's instructions.
I've been waiting for this ! Looks like a good choice for new equipment !!!!
I started using eco this season. Love it. I mix in a gallon jug. It is suppose to last 1 year after mixing. I just used the last of the gallon on the boxes I purchased this season. Great product.
A year? Wow, that's great to know, I can only think that it just gets more concentrated :)
That's what it said on the package. I got the single pack from Central Beekeepers Supply to try. He had a video on it as well. You confirmed it for me. Thanks
Well shoot. I only just caught your Q&A featuring the poly-whey product. I was liking the idea it was going into the wood more than acrylic. Plus they had a new green color.
I've been searching for a dip tote that will work for my equipment. This one should work really well. Thanks Fred
You're welcome, it's pretty convenient.
@@FrederickDunn I'm going to dip some new HillCo boxes (mediums and deeps) I'm still screwing together with some new solid (cedar) landing boards from BetterBee in ECO Wood Treatment. I'm mixing the treatment with an olive tint made by Mixol. I can't get away from Marine Corps roots Chief. Or should I call you Senior or Master Chief? HOOYAH!
BTW, some of the deeps are being prepped for all season top feeders with BeeSmart insulated inner covers and BeeMax outer covers. (I wonder where I got these ideas from?) I painted the outer covers OD already and put them on this week. Very nice piece of gear. I'm also using deeps because in this build because the new 3-season feeders are taller and I'm cutting the vertical plastic tabs so I can butt the inner cover with the box. That's if all goes to plan. If it doesn't, I'll throw them in a pile with some thermite. YUT!!
I have missed this genre of episode's from you. I don't really have the patience to sit threw those episodes that exceed 30 minutes.
Don't blame you one bit Mark :)
i'm with u I don't watch the long talks
@@FrederickDunn I like listening to the FAQ series when I'm driving. Thanks for the info!
@@thehiveandthehoneybee9547 But you often comment on them :)
I break it up over a few sessions, but worth the whole thing. I learn something in every episode.
I put Le Tonkinois linseed oil finish on my cedar Flow hive II. Looks so good.
Excellent! There are defniitely lots of finish options.
Thanks for sharing!
I use Raw Linseed Oil on outside and then I "toast" the inside and outside with torch.
It's an 18th Century technique from Japan called. shou sugi ban.
I never want to put the oil on the inside!! But the EcoWood looks great and I may try it...
I still like the look of my toasted hive bodies..
But.. it takes do much more work(torching, wire brushing, sanding)... compared to uour method.
Thanks for sharing!
Oooh I bet shou sugi ban beehives would look pretty cool... but yeah, that would be a TON of work to do.
Are you saying you put the linseed oil on before you burn the boards? I thought the boards were typically oiled afterwards to seal. What is the benefit of doing it before? Also, I love linseed oil, but raw linseed oil takes forever to cure lol.
Anyway, I would love to see your hives, I bet they are beautiful.
I’ve used Lifetime Wood Treatment, similar product, works great for hive equipment.
I grabbed a searzall heated the wood and threw filtered beeswax on top and it soaked it all up after the wood stopped bubbling from the moisture trapped in the wood. Nice bosch
interesting!
That’s what I use!
BTW Fred- That package says it should be mixed with 1 Imperial Gal. It's made in Canada and I think that is Brittish measurement. One Imp gal is a little more than 9.5 pints. One gallon American is 8 pints.
I look forward to mopping my FHs with it soon. Thanks for your wonderful videos and interviews:)
Mine must have american packaging, it's 5 U.S. Gallons for my pack.
Hmmm, I'm planning on making a new enclosure for my neo-tropical snake. This might be a potential option.
Thanks for sharing!
I think for reptile habitats you'll want to look past the wood preservation and consider your ability to clean the interior surfaces. This seems to provide a porous surface that could be a cleaning/disinfecting challenge for a high humidity enclosure. Just something to think about :)
@@FrederickDunn I should have specified: This wouldn't be used in the environmental envelope. I'm having a pickle finding finishes that I can be confident are safe to protect the carcass and make it look 'pretty.' Knowing how sensitive our bee friends are, if you and others are having good results with this product: It's more good data for me.
I haven't settled on a safe wood species as of yet. Incidentally, almost all species of common wood hive box is 'toxic' to most reptiles (in particular cedars and pines). I like the patina/colour the Eco leaves the wood, but I think I'll have to make test blanks.
Cheers, Mr Dunn!
It's been 2 years you should do a follow-up video on this product 😊
Hi Brian, I do show the boxes from time to time. It's great at preventing any kind of rot, not good for laminates, and won't prevent warping. So the wood still needs to be glued up well prior to treatment. Today I use it on all of my wooden hives.
Everyone is talking about how good this product is, so this year I decided to try it on my nucleus boxes. I figured I put it into the test myself. Anyway I noticed on the package you showed to the camera it says 5 lmp gallons. That’s 6 US gallons. I mixed that with 6 gallons of distilled water. I’m pretty sure it’s not big of a deal, you would just have one more extra gallon of the solution.
Wow, you're right! I'm looking at the listing right now, and it says it's for 5 gallons, but then you look at he package is it's 5 Impgl. You are the first to point that out! Thank you! www.homedepot.com/p/Intl-Eco-Wood-Treatment-5-gal-Exterior-Interior-Wood-Stain-and-Preservative-EWT-5/203077395
So I got the 5 gal treatment. Already mixed 5 gal to find out it should of been 6. I guess I'll leave it at 5 cause I've already dipped 4 boxes 3 bottom boards and 2 top covers.
The manufacturer needs to do a little better on there instruction. I've been looking for a dip time. They say a few minutes. So I soaked mine 3min each side. I'll know better on mixing next time thanks Fred and KingpinRebel.
Your timing is so perfect thank you!!
You're so welcome!
not sure if anyone mentioned it but you can mix this up and take it to home depot and ask the paint department to tint it for you if you'd like to get some other color besides the weathered silver. Home depot sells it online so they should do it for free if you bought it from them. Not sure if they'll do it if you buy elsewhere, or maybe they'll just charge you a little for it?
Oh, and you'll need to mix it and bring it in a gallon paint bucket so they can put it in the shaker.
That's interesting! Thanks for sharing Andrew.
I’ve used this for several years and seem good so far. Some of my flat wood tops have cracked but other than that everything is still solid!
Thanks for sharing! I may also use it for bird boxes, I can see where cracking may still occur.
Thanks for sharing! I was wondering how it weathers after several yesrs
I use food grade Tung Oil. Probably a lot more expensive. Tung oil requires reapplication every spring as well.
As always Fred, great video! Of note: I closed up all upper vents this past winter and had 100% survival on all hives. The University of Minnesota is STILL fighting me at Beelab (check their website for winter hive recommendation PDF) stating that I'm doing it wrong as an upper vent is a MUST for getting rid of moisture. These are PHD bee experts! Old traditions cloud scientists even!
We can just sit back and let the Phd clan battle with one another. Lots of solid science behind the single entrance with no upper venting, partnered with the current studies about the varroa not being able to cope with the low 02 levels and high humidity. Part of the problem is that different climates and humidity levels can also come into play. Insulated covers for starters and a way for excess moisture do run off is also key. I'll sip my cappuccino and observe the debate as it continues. Here in the snowbelt, I've had great success and more resource conservation in the hive with insulated covers and no upper venting.
@@FrederickDunn I agree with you and my own trials here have proven your hypothesis true for my girls. My fellow beek 2 miles north of me lost 90% with upper vents open, but heavy insulation wraps and bags of fall leaves as wind break insulation around his hives. He's going to try no upper vents and insulated covers. I throw a moisture board and then an insulated cover. I can't thank you enough for your observations Fred!!
@@RunningWithSauce where did you put the moisture board?
Did it work well?
I really like it as well I've been using it for a few months
nice job! that stuff looks great to me!!! thanks
Thanks for watching! As always!
I have.been using this for a couple of years and I am very pleased with how it looks and how it holds up. I use the same dipping method with my equipment assembled. I do use a brush rather than a roller.
I have trusted this guy
I think I need to add another box is it to late in the season tho ???
For us here, it's not too late to add boxes as we're just headed towards our heavy late-summer nectar flow.
I used this product two years ago on multiple chicken tractors. Two years later, the wood looks amazing and I never have to reapply.
Did you apply this to the roof of the Flow Hive? Or use another product?
I used it on everything. I don't currently use the Flow-Hive gabled roofs as I'm using insulated material, but may go back when I come up with other insulation options.
What type of wood were your chicken tractors made of? I may have to try this stuff out in the future. I saw a different video a couple of days ago of someone else using this stuff and it caught my eye.
Kinda wondering if white paint might help more with keeping them cool in the winter and other stuff like stopping carpenter bees from chewing them up, but I love the beauty of bare wood...
@@johnandjacquelinewarren9979 We used whatever Lowes had in Texas- most likely fir. We had untreated 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, and plywood. It doesn’t work well with plywood, but we still used it. The wood still looks the same as it did 2 years ago.
The flow hive looks beautiful and I didn’t paint the roof, just used the stain. I anticipate the stain will hold up the same as it has with the chicken tractor.
Hello! Love your channel. I'm having a weird problem with one of my hives that doesn't seem to progress as faster as the other hives beside it. I guessed it had little population so I added a frame full of brood to help them. All of the brood turned into bees but the cells were left empty with no eggs of nectar stored in. The old comb however is still full of bees.
You may need to locate the queen to make sure she's still there. If not, install a frame with eggs in it so they can make a new one :)
@@FrederickDunn i havent located the queen but ive located the eggs. the activity is almost identical to the other hives. Thanks for the help!
Thanks Fred for all your helpful information! I've looked through the thread on this but would like to know what the "Jedi Bee Master" thinks🙂. I have used the eco on my Layens hive and although it is very good stuff it doesn't address any cracking or weathering and I'm wondering if I should be putting some sort of sealer on top of that? Probably not and they'll do just fine because of they way they are designed but I wonder if/when there will be a need to do some work on the outside wood of the Layens that have been Eco'd at some point and how long out would that be? Thanks again!
If your Layens if made from any plywood material, you'll need exterior quality paint or some other finish. It's more a treatment than a finish, but mine have weathered ok.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you, I've got the 20-frame insulated from Dr. Leo and have only Eco'd them so I'll let them "bee" and see what happens over time, should be ok at least for a few years but will see. I do like the way that product looks.
Great. Thank you.
Thanks. I was wondering though, do you think I could varnish over the top of it?
I don't really want the old look. I want something that looks "fancy and new" rather than the weathered look.
I think if you're going to varnish the hive, I wouldn't bother with the Eco-Wood at all.
@@FrederickDunn thanks for the quick reply. Have you tried varnish? Or even hot dipped? Do you think that any of these are reasonable choices for fairly long term looking good?
Man I think ill try out this for other projects
I like your videos but I'm not a big fan of flow hives I'm old fashioned. I want to try it on hives.
Works on any exposed untreated wood. The Flow-owners had some specific concerns with all of the moving parts which are not associated with standard Langstroth hives. Removable panels on the sides and back offer challenges when it comes to preserving the wood. Flow Hives represent a tiny part of the beekeeping equipment that most keepers encounter.
Can you paint over this with milk paint or chalk paint after dipping it in eco wood? I want to paint pretty art on my Flow hive 2+
I have not painted any of the eco-wood treated wood. You can go to their website regarding compatibility with other finishes. When I use it, it's with nothing else.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you for your reply. I cannot find what ingredients they use in their formulation to make it non toxic. Do you know?
How are they doing now? better than waxed?
Wax is a finish, this is a treatment. No rot, but Eco-Wood does not stablize the material the way paint or wax dipping would. They can still warp or split.
I was wondering about this stuff. Thanks Fred. I first saw it being used on a log home. Does it color all woods the same? By the way, I feel that Learning is always worth the time spent doing so.
different wood may cause different coloration, the grain can be very interesting.
Is boiled linseed oil a decent option for painting/dipping?
It can be used, takes a loooong time to set. I have used it in the past, just not on my hives.
What is your green top painted with?
I use gloss Valspar Exterior Latex.
Hey Frederick. I'm thinking about getting this for my new FlowHive2 I just ordered. (another hive!!!!)
Will the 1 gallon packet be enough to three deep boxes, base and roof? Also, does this waterproof the wood? Or just treat if from rot and mold?
One gallon is definitely enough for three boxes and more. I notice that the water does "bead" a little on the wood, but you wouldn't necessarily consider it water"proof", however, it's definitely wood protection. For example, is you had pressure treated wood, it gets exposed to repeated wet/dry cycles without deteriorating and that's what this does.
@@FrederickDunn Oh great!!! I'm excited to try. This new hive is going to be all black and grey--no bright colors. Thank you
So I'm assuming the majority of bee boxes are sold completely untreated?
That's true, unless people purchase painted hive equipment that is also available. Flow does not offer pre-treated hives.
i get mine unassembled ya untreated
Thanks!!!
You're very welcome Rodney :)
Ever use this on the frames to make them last longer?
No I haven't, I've also never had a frame wear out. I think it's best to leave frames untreated.
Hi Fred! Just came across your video. I just got my first Flow hive, a 7 frame classic made from Araucaria. I was going to have the hive dipped, but now that I have seen this video, I am considering Eco Wood since it is cheaper and is something I can do myself. What are your thoughts on Eco Wood vs wax dipped? Additionally, I see on Mann Lake's website that they recommend gluing all joints before applying Eco Wood to prevent warping. What has been your experience with this?
Yes, glue all joints first, I personally really like the look of the Eco-wood finished hives as they are dark and blend with the countryside :) It's my current favorite finish for hive equipment.
Does the eco wood work well with the Araucaria wood? I am getting my first flow hive here soon and they recommend painting for this wood type.
I’m trying to order on amazon. Only one i can find says silvery patina. Is this the one you used in the video?
Yes, that's the one, that's the look it takes on as time passes.
@@FrederickDunn thanks. My old hive is empty and has honeycomb on the 3 middle frames, can i put those in the brood box on the Flow Hive 2+ and add the 3lbs of Italians bees/queen to it or should i just put the frames in that came with the flow?
Do you use Eco Wood on the frames?
Hi Gary, there isn't any reason to do that as the frames are never exposed to weather.
Do you recommend buying a flow hive for beginner bee keepers?
I think it really comes down to your personal economic situation. They are expensive, so for those on a budget, I recommend testing out how enthusiastic you're going to be about beekeeping first. BUT, if you're not concerned about cost and know that bees are definitely in your future then I'd go ahead with a flow-super. Beginning beekeeping is going to be the same with or without flow-supers.
Can I use this on bird houses? is it safe for birds?
yes, and yes it is.
I use white wash. Old school.
Well, it was good enough for Tom Sawyer... and the fence is still there.
Is it sodium silicate???
"Eco Wood Treatment is a powder composed of natural substances from minerals. It contains no solvents and leaves no harmful residue in water or soil. It is safe to use on retaining marts, or any structure that penetrates into the soil or into the water.contains only 100% organic compounds" That's a quote from the company.
Can I use linseed oil??
Yes, absolutely.
In Tung Oil I trust.
That's good stuff also, but does require refreshing.
can't be used the way this guy uses this stuff tung oil sticks everything together
@@thehiveandthehoneybee9547 never had that problem.
@@FrederickDunn nah. Not on bone dry rough surface cedar wood. I have boxes that I build 6 years ago and have no sign of rotting. But also I gave the 2 thick applications only on the outside.
No copper naph.?
ecowoodtreatment.com/faq/
🧡
you ever treyd 100% Pure tung oil Fred
Back in the early 80's it was my favorite finish, but takes several coats and dries very slow annnd I had to refresh it frequently when exposed to the elements. But for the patient, it's a good finish. Don't put any cotton rags that are soaked with Tung Oil in the trash as you risk spontaneous combustion.
@@FrederickDunn my i wouldnt use rags id use a fhome brush ps hows your flowhives doing and are you looking forword to msome intersting flows and nector ps unfortunatly thars s is a militent animal rights groyup calld aussie farms in who changed thare nsame to farmers transparentcy who target farmers and beekeepers some western australian beekeeping places have been listed on thare map pps keep up the grat vids mate i love your q&a vids vary intersting i have medatarainan wather but meditatranian isnt stated any more nowe its just sub tropical
Are you sure that it is" perfectly safe around honey bees"?
I tried to find out what was contained in this product but the company website doesn't say, except to repeat claims from "independent laboratory testing" that it is natural, organic and non toxic...
However, I did see a post referencing the manufacturers safety data sheet, stating that the product is " a disodium octoborate tetrahydrate/ boron/ boric acid system ... with additive chemicals that allow it to not be washed out by affecting the wood tannins."
These substances are minerals so they do qualify as natural, also organic and they have very low or no toxicity for mammals.
But they ARE insecticides....and this treatment method involves treating the inside of the hive. I would be cautious, treat only the outside of the hive.
And as a matter of principle I would never use any prduct near my bees, unless I knew what it actually contained.
I see no evidence that it's detrimental to the bees inside or out. It's been in use for years by beekeeping operations that are much larger than mine. If you have evidence that it's in any way harmful to the bees, send me the link to the information. I will be happy to post any evidence that the bees will be injured by contact with eco-wood. Representatives from the company sent me lists of beekeeping operations that use this treatment and have done so for years. I'm always open to science. I would not promote something proven to be harmful to honey bees.
@@FrederickDunn So the company sent you material to enable you to promote them? Could you please ask them exactly what chemicals are in the product?
Placing insecticidal products on the inside of a beehive is not a good idea, no matter that it is organic, natural or non toxic to mammals. They might not kill bees but a potential steady drag on their health is not a good idea.
In my view, I would only use something in a beehive that is known to be safe to bees. An unknown product that has not been proven to be toxic doesn't cut it for me.
Looks like a dye rather than a preservative.
They do offer the preservative with color added. This is the version that is just plain.
Shou Sugi Ban (burn with torch) the outside and top/bottom edges of untreated wood hive parts. Provides protection from UV, bugs and weather.
Sounds great. Do a video!
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