I Don't Paint My Hive Boxes. Here's Why...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I get asked quite often what I use to preserve my hive boxes. Allow me to explain... I don't think latex paint is a good idea on beehive woodenware and I think I have found a better solution. If you want to protect your beehive from the weather, here are some things to think about.
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I used 2 coats of a stain/sealer, then i bought some crystal clear epoxy and covered it. uv and waterproof, always looks wet and shiny
That sounds cool, I hope the epoxy doesn't get all cracked once the wood expands and contracts.
@@vinofarm hopefully it holds up the epoxy is super tough, you can see a little of what it looks like here.
th-cam.com/video/wPUnb7igCf4/w-d-xo.html
Grandpa used to paint on a thin layer of perafin. He said it extended the life of his "Woodware"!
Just to let you know I'm going to try this stain. I looked everywhere in my area and no one sells it. I looked on Amazon and it doesn't have a good selection. I went ahead and contacted the manufacturer and ordered it directly from them,, it was cheaper and they processed it very quickly and said it will be here in 2 days. Thanks for the info. I'm going to try this and see how it goes.
I started out assembling my own boxes and coating them with tung oil, but I don't really have a good set up and it quickly became a pain in the butt. There is a guy here locally who assembles hive boxes and dips them in paraffin. It is really great equipment that is impervious to all the weather conditions Ohio can throw at it. It does cost me some $$ but I think it will be worth it in the long run. I decided pretty early on, I could be a beekeeper or a carpenter/furniture maker, but I couldn't be both! :)
Mary Miller The wax dip method is great. I’ve heard of people just using beeswax too, but that’s quite an investment!
Great! I was looking for an alternative to tung oil - thanks!
emmymadeinjapan Thanks for watching, Emmy!
Oh hey its Emmy. Hiiiii
@Jermaine Johan so what are we searching?
@Jermaine Johan more info please what are we looking for. I dont understand what this is supposed to mean
@Boden Jakob so what is happening?
Cool! I like the idea of the Vermont whey stain :)
Another reason hives are painted is to help your bees find their way home and help those virgin Queens return to the hive they left for their mating flight 🐝 maybe the kiddo would be into painting or wood burning some small images on the fronts of them. Anyhoo just and idea with my 1.5 cents ;)
Glad you did this video!
i Can see it now "Polywhey, the first choice for new england beekeepers"
There is a Japanese technique called shou-sugi-ban where charring the wood creates a very durable, natural protective coating. I wonder if this would work well for your hive boxes.
I've considered this! It would sure look cool. I already have the propane torch and everything.
I don't think they bees would enjoy the constant burnt wood smell. I would suspect they would abscond.
The Japanese traditionally used Japanese cedar for this process. In order for it to be effective, the charring must have a minimum depth, which the cedar can endure during the burning, otherwise it simply eroded away in short order. Many western woods will not be able to withstand this process. The Japanese would also oil the wood after as well.
Shou-sugi-ban looks fantastic, had a friend do this to one of his bee boxes. But the effort was off the chart, and just not good for more than a few boxes unless you have nothing better to do.
Thanks! My mentor taught me to melt beeswax and linseed oil. We melt it together in an old coffee can and paint that onto the raw wooden hives. It does not create a seal. But with repeated applications the wax does create a nice build up. It smells great and the bees seem to like it. Just a suggestion.
advice, when it's cold, doesn't mean there isn't any activity. They will soon resume their activity and you will have to add supers and check for swarm cells. If you fall behind one or two weeks you may miss some warms.
N O Oh, I know! It’s just been cold every day for about two weeks. They’re pent up and not much to forage. I need to get in there and make sure they don’t need food but it’s been too cold every time I’m free.
@@vinofarm I had the same problem. It rained everytime I was free and two of my beehives swarmed on me, a matter of 10 days. Be careful.
@@vinofarm I guess it's been a bit warmer here on the coast(Boston) and the rain has the backyard filled with dandelions and purple and white/purple violets...we just decided to let the landscaper know to not mow in the back for a while(though the ladies seem to be ignoring those flowers).
As a former long time log home coatings contractor:
Find a locally available coating. It gets spendy to import coatings across state lines. Coatings will last 3-5 years. Black has the highest uv resistance, longer life.
For example, permachink is my local coatings producer, available locally and cheap.
Yes but black is the most heat absorbent in the color spectrum so it's not good for bees in the summer especially in the south.
@@CWsooner Bees can regulate the Temps. Boxes can also be placed in the woods.
@@buildingwithtrees2258 yes, they regulate the temps with bearding which is what will happen when using darker colors and or you don't vent unless they're totally insulated like this video states and the Apimaye hives prove for year round use. I don't want my bees bearding and your solution doesn't help regulate the temps or the moisture which is what the video is about.
Shading the hive may be a problem controlling hive beetles.
I've done Tung oil for my supers, and it seems to work just fine for summer boxes. However the 2 brood boxes I did it with were wrecked after just 1 winter. The wood was moved so much bees could crawl into the gaps!
For the rest I've just gone with the exterior paint that matches my fence color, and it was only $30/gal which has triple coated half a dozen 10 frame deeps without making much of a dent in the can.
I'd like to try a more natural look again sometime, and that product you've had experience with looks like it might actually work pretty well. It'll be interesting to see how long it holds up especially with how much protection your boxes get.
I have had great success with tung oil, thinned with natural gum turpentine 3:1. Agree its too thick to put on neat.
Hey Jim.....so here it is 4 years later and the outdoor furniture (two benches, two Adirondack chairs, 4 side tables) we treated with the Vermont Natural Coatings goop is holding up great! This was brand new, unstained virgin wood and it soaked up this stuff like a sponge. As you mentioned, it's important to put it on quickly and get that second coat on immediately before it dries. Just thought I'd follow up with a "real world" long term review. Thanks again. Bill
I put that on some of my bee boxes. 3 yrs. later the wood is bear. I would never use this product again. This is not a how to comment, it's just the truth.
@@timlewis9873 I agree with you Tim. I put this product on over 50 medium boxes about 2-3 years ago. Now I have to find another solution because some of the boxes are in terrible shape already. It is an expensive mistake!!
Cook your boxes in paraffin wax for ten minutes, when you pull them out paint with oil based(outside only).
The paraffin soaks in and protects and as long as you don’t have disease problems they should last 20 years
brent behsmann Please tell me where to acquire a paraffin wax cooker and dozens of pounds of paraffin wax for less than $65!
Vino Farm you know I can’t beat your can for $65 you can make a shallow tray and cook one side at a time with a gas ring burner, we have a commercial size deep fryer converted to a wax cooker 2 boxes at a time it’s still a slow process but 20 yrs protection.
The paraffin also deters moth and other timber pests
brent behsmann I was half joking. I would love to dip all my boxes in wax. It’s just a much more elaborate setup than I can handle right now. I’m not planning on getting much bigger than I am but I would probably look into a wax treatment if I ever do decide to grow into something commercial. I think the point of my video was that there are options besides paint. I found this one and it works for my situation. Wax dipping or box charring might be perfect for someone else. Just anything but latex paint!
Vino Farm I figured that much, our friend runs 2500+ hives his wax dipper does 1 a min with frames and requires 6+ people to operate it so I understand “elaborate”
Have you heard of the bee bee tree?
I really enjoy the vids and progress keep em coming
@@vinofarm Have you seen that video about was dipping? th-cam.com/video/RwjSmZimelQ/w-d-xo.html
In SE PA we have clubs that wax dip our hive boxes. Reports from a NJ commercial beekeepers is his hives are going on 30 years. Mainly parrafin wax and/or micro crystaline parrafin wax with some resin added. 260-280*F for 10 minutes, cooks out wood moisture and replaces with wax. Our CCBA recently added 80-100# of beeswax beads to our last two was dipping sessions and it smells terrific. Down side $4 per item dipped. On my used painted gear I melt beeswax into the top and bottom edges to help preserve as those edges seem to rot first. What is the oldest hive you have with this product? Can you show how it weathers? I have been laser engraving / wood burning my new hive bodies this year to give some artistic flare. I can use the laser before (is best) and after wax dipping. Fun.
My guess is wax dipping would outlast any topical finish. I wish I could get it done locally. Then I wouldnt have to paint again.
@@shannonswyatt Agreed, I wonder if it would work to dip the hive bodies before you put them together, that way you could do it yourself in a deep sheet pan or something
Dipping became more popular after I had already had my operation up and running twenty some years ago. I'm in Bucks County and our club has nothing like what your group does.
Hi, I live in Quebec/Canada where we have -40 to +40°C. I started 3 years ago and I put Exterior Translucent Wood Stain by Saman on cedar wood. They said one coat is enough, but I did two. Last year, on pin wood, I decided to try boiled linseed oil, two coats too (I just do the exterior). This year, I bought a hive with wax coating to compare the efficiency. I like to keep the natural wood colour. Also, linseed oil and beeswax coating are smells bees like. As two of my hives have a chalet roof, I used a paint/primer 100% acrylic flat white exterior paint just to give a better protection on the top, made by Sico.
Received our gallon this morning. Pretty stoked to try this stuff. One note to anyone considering this product: The manufacturer states that it has a shelf life of (1) one year from the date of manufacturing, not the sale date mind you. So if you pick up a can make sure that it hasn't been sitting around the store for an extended period of time and that you only purchase what you'll think you'll use before it expires.
Bill Baron Hmmm... I have let a can sit for over a year and it worked fine. Didn’t seem any different. Good to know, though. Thanks!
If I ever go into beekeeping, I am going to review all of your videos as my sole tutorial!
dude im scaling my operation and you saved me a whole lot of money....... I have a sawmill so I was planning on using some cool hardwoods and oils, but now I am glad I watched this so I didnt just paint and subsequently doom all my boxes that were gonna be made from pin oak and other scrubby wood I have.
I was able to order this at my local Ace Hardware in Rhode Island. Thank you for the tip
Thanks for teaching, again!
Thank you for this important information living is Massachusetts myself I was having a hard time deciding on how best to protect my new hives and I feel your method is by far the most effective....
Omg Vermont coatings is the best! Used it on all our new bathroom cabinets and it has held up with 3 kids. Regular polyurethane would never hold up!! Love that stuff
I wax my boxes. Hello from Fance, love your vids.
Congratulations, you made a wax moth beacon.
Do you mean you boil dip the boxes?
What do you called that kind of wax ?
@@bigbrickwall Are the moths attracted to the smell of wax?
@@bigbrickwall
Wax moths don't need any help. I dip my edges in beeswax.
I like this approach better than painting for all the reasons you mentioned. Glad to hear that you've had good results in your first three years. How have your hive boxes done since this video was posted? Are your six year old hives still in good shape?
i used to live in MA and now i have family i visit there. i really like learning about how you raise bees. You seem to be doing it how i'd like to do it someday so i'm soaking in everything you share.
I have a couple I put a water based red barn stain on just because I had some at the farm. It seems to be holding up and is super easy to apply compared to painting, 10 bucks a gallon. The others I put kilz 2 primer and then top coat with 9.00 a gallon mismatched paint. I make most of my stuff and try to keep it cheap because nothing is lasting too long in the baking sun and weather of the south. Nice video
my friend use epoxy coating,it will last for 25 years...it is expensive but it will last longer then regular paint..
Gotta' watch the particular epoxy. Most of the stuff I've used (structurally) specifically says to add top coat as it is not designed with UV inhibitors.
@@cluelessbeekeeping1322 use food grade epoxy,food industrie used a lot,every epoxy coating need base coat and top coat,it is 3 layers coating..
@@rembrandrembrand Ooooh, you're talking epoxy paint. I get it.
Thanks for the product review, sounds like a great product.
I did Boiled Linseed Oil and bees wax in, mixed a crock-pot, brushed on. Worked well, but laborious and best applied on hot days.
We have to paint down here or the boxes would disintegrate within the season. I use a primer/sealer coat and then latex on that. Works well through our rather extreme climate. But I'm always up for an experiment, so I might check out that stain (especially if it means fewer coats of stuff to do, as I just got another case of hive body parts to put out).
Once upon a time farmers painted their barns with a mixture of milk and iron oxide rich clay. It did need to be reapplied on occasion but even with severe neglect many of those structures still have their original siding. So a whey based sealer makes perfect sense to me.
I just bought a gallon of this stuff on Amazon. As a facility director, I'm in charge of the physical upkeep of several different properties along with a lot of wooden, outdoor furniture. My team is always looking for more environmental friendly, low VOC solutions and after reading up on this product I am going to give it a whirl for certain applications. Jim, your channel represents all that’s good in TH-cam land. Thanks again for sharing.
Bill Baron Just curious, where did you find the gallon size on Amazon? I saw quarts for more than twice the price I pay at the local hardware store. I didn’t see a gallon size when I looked. This is a rare occasion where I don’t recommend amazon because the price was crazy.
Jim the company is called World Class Supply. We shop through Amazon Business so perhaps that’s why you couldn’t find it. I’m not sure. I’ll email a screen shot as I’m having difficulty posting a link here for whatever reason.
This product as far as I know is not available in New Zealand and the cost of purchase and shipping from the U.S. is astronomical so will have to keep plaguing our paint people to get their act together. Nice video by the way and have subscribed.
Too cool! Thank you. Your videos are so lite and pleasant, the music you choose is too. Good man!
My Layens hive has aluminum corner protectors just for the reason you mentioned about the end piece vulnerability. Horizontal Hives in general are less prone to dinging, but I wish I had seen this video before I painted my new hive yesterday!! It’d be nice to have a natural looking finish.
I used clear coat / varnish and it works great too. It keeps the natural color of wood.
Awesome video!! Thanks so much for all the time you spend sharing information, and making videos.
This feels like the calm before the storm - the storm being a flower explosion.
The flowers have been up here on the west coast for a few weeks now and I cannot wait to see vino farm explode with flowers
Just in time for Lunch! Thanks!
Dang. Already painted my hives... and I’m picking up my Nucs in 2 days. Keeps up the great work.
I will check at ACE and try it out. I’m putting my first hive together for this spring
I wish I saw this at the start of the week. I just painted mine yesterday
I use 100% Acrylic. I prepare my boxes thinking of the bees inside not how they look but what's best for bees. My boxes are six years old and look the same as 6 years ago just some bee droppings. I put one coat primer and two coats paint I use white or yellow alternating colours, and putting distinguishing markings on every front of hives. For the obvious reasons greatly reduces drifting which can be especially negative on hives if freshly Mated queen goes in wrong box. The other obvious reason is the heat factor. Lean against a white car in the sun when outside temp is around 90*F. Your boxes are darker in colour ,and they all have the same appearance. The only thing I wish I had of done is seal the Joints at ends with putty, then primed and painted.
Your videos are ALWAYS outstanding, well-produced, and most of all very informative. Keep up the good work!!
DITTO !
50 cent oops paint at the Home Depot. People bee painting hives for over 100 years.
private bubba People have been driving gasoline powered cars for 100 years, too. Doesn’t mean there isn’t a better alternative out there if you look for one!
@@vinofarm To each his own mine is If ain't broke don't fix it.
I do agree with him that latex will chip and allow premature decomp. I live in Florida and every prep you can take to extend the life of your wooden ware is an absolute necessity. Oh that coroplast that just might provide some shade for the hive here where it is Africa hot every summer, besides obviously shedding rainfall, but a frame to support the coroplast might be necessary here. The summer thunderstorm winds might otherwise make your coroplast a kite.
I am at 50 hives. Will have to try this. Glad to know about the 2nd coat thing.
what do you use to wrap your hives? and how thick is your wood wall? and what wood is it?
Correct me if I’m wrong, but aren’t your double nuc boxes painted purple and Orange?
Mercs Legion Yes! But it’s only a splash of paint OVER the sealer and it’s only on the front face. I did it to differentiate the boxes but it’s not for protection.
Vino Farm ah. Thanks for the clarification.
What do you think of apimaye hives?
fred white I don’t like the idea of buying into a proprietary system. I like being able to construct hive components out of wood with simple tools. I like my removable system of insulation and wraps. And I prefer the traditional look of my wood boxes. Basically, I’m not a fan.
What about varnish couldn't it be a good alternative?
Nicky Du Plessis The key is the finish needs to penetrate the grain and be flexible. I think varnish would get all crackled with all the hot/cold cycles.
@@vinofarm cool thanks with the help and advice
@@vinofarm Would linseed oil work? I can't find any whey based coating locally...
@@jo-han I treated a hive body with linseed oil mixed with bees wax. After three years that box is UGLY.
Mildew.
I've been looking for something like that. Thanks for helping me remember where I seen that at. I've been researching a bunch of different things that won't be harmful to the bee's. Thanks again.
100% Pure Tung Oil is FDA approved for food contact and has no additives, harsh chemicals or VOCs. I use it and my hives are protected and beautiful!
I painted mine with two coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Exterior Multi-purpose Water-based Primer and two coats of different colored top coats about 25 yrs ago and they still look new.
Glad you take such good care of your hives. Most people would put on one coat with no primer and have a peeling mess on their hands in one season.
Nice find, I think I will look around for something like that here at my ACE hardware...great tip
The hives have to look different to the bees or they may drift.
larry tornetta I put a single coat of paint on the faces of my nucs OVER the top of this finish. So the double nuc boxes look different to returning queens, but I need to do something similar to my big hives.
@@vinofarm you have over thunk the mating nuc thing. Bees orient to a location in 3D. Move a hive up a foot and see. If a queen goes back to the wrong box you don't want that one anyway.
Coat them with beeswax. Lol
Laugh but there is a TH-cam video of someone using beeswax and soy wax to do just exactly that. Only he coated them inside and out.
Joe Rowland I actually thought it may be a good idea. Natural! And I would love to see that video. 👍
@@geterdonegranny1639 posted by Megan Denver.
Oops it has been a while since I watched the video. I thought he used beeswax. I was wrong, but on his concept you could. Same principle. Temp would be much lower for beeswax. The downside is beeswax is pricey. Although when you consider hive body costs......
@@joerowland607 hey nice name lol you in to bee's to
nice! I just slap some latex on, without thinking about it. Thanks for the info, something for me to think about for the next time I need to paint my wooden ware! Thanks Jim!
Most Excellent. Thank You!
Hopefully it will warm up for you soon! My box is jamming! I'm in NC. I tried splitting my hive last year (didn't go well). Hopefully they'll do better this year. Love the videos and tips!
What part I'm in Marshall north of ashevillle. Getting two nucs or maybe packages this coming spring. Did you do nucs?
I live in Northwestern Massachusetts so I understand the kind whether we are having all too well. This is also my third year as a beekeeper as well. I have been painting my hive boxes but I think I will look into this product. Thanks for the information and for sharing.
Massachusetts Prepper This cold, damp weather is great for grass, but horrible for bees! Everything is bright green, but no flowers. Looking forward to some heat next week.
Vino Farm Let’s hope the warm weather gets here soon.
Very interesting video.
I like it in theory, but I'm paying less than 10 a gallon for mis-tints. I don't care if my boxes are orange, or blue or pink.
Shannon Wyatt There are cheaper options, of course. My point was that latex paint can actually shorten the life of your boxes. It’s not about the color. Thanks for watching.
@@vinofarm so you're saying latex paint is going to shorten the life of my house. Not hardly.
private bubba You didn’t listen to what I said in the video.
@@vinofarm I was responding to what you wrote.
private bubba Did I say latex would shorten the life of her house? I specifically said latex paint was great for things like house trim and sheds and things that don’t move around and get chipped. The problem with hive boxes is that people put a coat of paint on think they’re done. But then they get all dinged up with hive tools and constant handling. The part that gets chipped first is the corner end grain. That’s right where the water goes. Then the water sits in the wood behind the paint and rots the wood from the inside. This is not an issue on a house. Unless you are banging on your siding with a hive tool and exposing end grain on your clapboards.
What kind of tree are You using for the hives?
Pine
Thank you for including Celsius!
I've heard that birch wood with the bark still on it is a natural protection against bugs, fungus, and mold.
Can you please make another video PLEASE I'm waiting anxiously
Within the hour... Steady, pal.
That was an awesome video I’m in the Catskills and just got two new double stack large hives and couldn’t find anything safe for them this is perfect. How’s it holding up still? Any changes or concerns with the product and your bees
Your “awnings”...if I went into my local Home Depot what would I ask for to buy some of these? I have been using plywood with metal roofing for my rain protection. Very heavy and cumbersome to lift on and off. Your awnings look much better and much more user friendly. Thanks!
This is what I’ve been looking for through the comments also! :) I’d love to get the right material for these awnings
Do this video again in 3 or 4 years.
What tears up my boxes are bees chewing their way out. Ever hear them gnawing?
Really??? I've never see or heard evidence of that. What kind of wood are you using for hive boxes? It must be tasty!
@@vinofarm same flavor as yours.
Eventually the box gets soft at the corners from abuse. Then you'll get enough boxes and colonies where you're not as careful.
There's a guy in town here that's a painter/beekeeper. His hives always look new because he's anal about visual impressions.
Me? I inherited mis-matching equipment then put bees from cutouts in. Low budget big time.
Can't replace boxes fast enough to look sexy. Once you get where your bees produce a ton a year or better...looking sexy don't matter.
Your hives are very sexy. ;)
The first one I built myself got decorated with fancy folk art.
Beautiful. ...then I got serious.
The top bars...beautiful but a pita to keep bees in.
Back to white paint.
It got busy. You're going to explode next season.
Or crash. I crashed pretty hard 4th season. Hang on tho.
I've got screened bottom boards and they pluck it like they are playing a harp.
@@mikeries8549 Wow, I guess I am heading down that same road. It is a beautiful box. I don't think the bees care.
In the Netherlands beekeepers often use hives made of styropor/eps. So insulation is not necessary, because they are already made of the stuff you put around around them for the first winter. Why not use those, since your winters are colder than ours? They are much used because of the weight (much lighter than wood) and they last for up to 25 years. Google 'Segeberger' and you see what I mean.
I think they look like shit
Wood is more natural, also it breaths and absorbs water (and dry out again). When it is cold and moist enough, water can condens on inside of styrofoam. Bees have interactions with wood, they also need stuff produced by molds in the wood and use it as antibacterial agent. Although those molds are usually not wanted inside the hive but sourced on moldy wood somewhere nearby.
We use latex paint for years and it works great. But we also do not throw the boxes around like some do.
Aye I live in Hudson valley in NY we sure have had some crap weather this spring! Terrible for my bees
Forwarded this to PolyWhey to see what they can do for you if anything. Priceless video when keeping the wood in great shape. Thanks as always!
There are also a few traditional ways:
1: Old beekeepers around here used to boil theyr hives in bees wax. I'v heard that this worked really well but wax is expensive so most beekeepers rather sell the wax nowadays.
2: Propolis. A solution of propolis in alcohol can be used. It also works well but has to bee renewed regularly and (like wax) propolis can be sold for more than paint costs.
3: Lineseed oil was also commonly used and works well (if renewed from time to time) It can be quite cheap if you find the right seller (filtered oil for painting is best, non filtered for animal feeding (e.g. horses) is cheapest) Downside: takes a looooong time to dry (sometime weeks) It needs UV-radiation and oxigen to dry. The first layer should be pure, a second layer should be mixed with natural pigments. Darker pigments better protect the wood from UV-radiation. Lighter pigments work better if you don't want the hive to overheat in the summer. I like Iron Oxide. It's non-toxic and unexpensive. Thouroughly boiling the oil before use is the traditional way to make it dry faster...but still slowly. (It won't penetrate the wood as deep as unboiled oil though. A good alternative for the second layer)
PS: Only wax or propolis should be used on the inside. It's your bees home...they don't like unfamiliar chemical human stuff around. But the old bee keepers told me that the bees do this part themselves if you give them a few seasons time.
very awesome video. We are barely reaching spring hive maintenance season here in central Maine. It can't get here soon enough.
It's crazy seeing the difference between bee keeping in the south vs the north! Would love to send you a jar of honey from spring flowers!
Address is on the About page. :)
@@vinofarm awesome! Didn't see that thanks for fast response!
I never realized you live in mass I live southern nh. Great video and may have to find some in my area, I even need something for my porch. Thanks
That time of the year again. Found a local supplier in Indianapolis, In, USA. Wow 5/17/2022 $37.00 a quart in stock. Indianapolis, Indiana, USA (more if I have it shipped)
Thank you!
This seems like a better solution than hot wax...
Sun Shaker If I had large vats of beeswax, that’s the finish I’d go with, but I do not , so this is working great instead.
@@vinofarm You don't want to use the beeswax for the hive boxes, the melting temperature is too low, so in the summer when it gets hot and has direct sunlight your hives would "sweat" the beeswax out of the wood. The wax they use is usually a mix of Paraffin (80%) and Microcrystalline (20%) wax or a mix of Paraffin and Rosin. I personally don't want to play with 300F wax around open flames, especially when it foams up, so that is why I think what you use is a better solution.
I bought a packet of Eco Wood from Home Depot for under $15. That packet will mix into a gallon of water. It claims to be a one and done wood treatment and a few woodworking beekeepers have discussed it on TH-cam.
I have one "bee barn" finished and another almost there. They aren't as pretty as yours but I thought using different woods on the front of them might help the bees know which is which better.
Cool! Send me a link!
@@vinofarm th-cam.com/video/x1VzwPUb31A/w-d-xo.html Here is a decent video example. Some of the videos show the boxes being dipped briefly in the solution with good results years later.
@@DougMcHone I meant the bee barn!
@@vinofarm LOL. I only have one photo so far, please excuse the mess. I started with a 8-frame box that was 16 1/4 inches deep, but ended up adding a 3/4 inch board on the bottom to hold the insulation, so it's 17" tall. Next step is custom made frames and a custom bottom board. I'm thinking screened with a tray underneath to trap hive beetles/varroa mites. Next Spring is my target to be ready photos.app.goo.gl/a7u1E5NasGbtfQr59
2 barns and 2 Modified Funnybug Bees bottom boards to make SHB lives miserable... and short. I used pine, pallet wood, and reclaimed wood, but only pine on the inside.
The vent/feeder/wick boxes are next, followed by an inner/outer cover. Supers too if I can get them done. I think I can batch supers and the feeders as the horizontal and vertical dimensions are the same.
photos.app.goo.gl/g9bNsu5ivmx8SntFA
Linseed Oil does a pretty good job as well and is relatively cheap.
interesting mentality. Ever think about using something like boiled linseed oil or beeswax?
I like linseed oil and I'm using it to finish my barn. Future woodenware will probably be coated in linseed oil. Beeswax would be nice, but expensive. I like the concept of a paraffin/beeswax dipping, but don't really have the setup and I don't really have all that much woodenware to treat right now.
I like the look thanks for the tip
I Live on an island in Alaska in a rainforest so I placed my hive in a garage with a small duct to the outside. I treated my hive the same way even though it is indoors. If you have time, I would appreciate your comments on my beekeeping videos (I only have two so far)
TallAKFF
Please be sure your bees can not get into any antifreeze. It is sweet, and very deadly. Generally, it sounds like you are doing what is needed to give them a good chance in a rather hostile environment. Kudos.
Vino would you be able to have a look at the mini poly queen mating nucs this year ? Im curious about them and think youd be honest about their design/practicality :)
I got stung for the first time today. I wasn't even holding anything standing next to the hive during inspection and I clasped my middle finger and thumb together and just so happen to catch a bee between them. Stung me in the finger. I had a buddy there-it was his first experience with bees. As I continued the inspection another one tried to sting me but I backed away from the hive and swiped her away each time she tried to peg me. I put on my veiled jacket and continued the inspection until she started trying to get my hands. I backed away from the hive and returned when she was leaving me alone again and just wrapped up the inspection a little early. As I was closing up the hive she got on me again and I walked towards my buddy saying, "I think this has been the same bee trying to get me." About that time I guess I got in proximity of him and he wasn't wearing a suit. The bee switched targets and went after my friend. She stung him in the back of the neck. He ran away and left after that. Rest of the inspection for my other hive and the one we were stung from went okay. I opened up the aggressors again and put their beetle buster in there. Didn't see the queen but there's eggs. I hope it was a fluke and it was the pheromone from the first sting. That is a about 3 week old package of bees and if they're mean then I'm about to have a lot of meanies :P.
Apply smoke to the sting area after you have removed it - to remove the alarm pheromone. It helps that, but is not 100% effective if they have already caught the alarm. Best to just walk away, taking the smoker with you. Then after a minute or two of the smoke application, go back and proceed. Crossing your fingers is optional.
We used to own a building with wood windows near the ocean in California. The south facing windows were a serious problem that we never solved the whole time we owned the building. I wonder if this product would have helped, especially on windows that as part of the repair process ended up with most of the paint removed. All this is assuming that wood treated with this stuff can be painted.
One thing that I would say is a major reason your hives are lasting well is the extra shade. Sun is the enemy with regard to painted wood. Our north facing windows required a lot less maintenance and windows that were completely out of the weather looked like they might last indefinitely. This is the first bee video I've seen that advocated extra shade but it seems like it might be a really good idea for the reasons you stated.
Dave Kirkeby It’s funny how people have commented in the past that shade is not good for the hives, but apparently bees can survive in the woods in trees and the woods are plenty shady. I must say, the awnings are 90% to keep water off the bottom boards and give them a dry landing zone for the upper entrance. I’ve seen storms roll in with bees bearding out front and they take their time getting back in. Without the awnings they’d be washed away.
thank you! great vids
Ohh you got lucky to stumble upon that kind of stain XDD AND I CANT WAIT FOR THE FRENZY N SPLITS
What about soaking hive bodies in hot beeswax/linseed oil?
I’ve seen the wax dip method and it looks awesome. Unfortunately, the setup and investment in wax is way beyond what I or a lot of my viewers would like to spend. If the opportunity arose, I’d be happy to dip all my hives.
Boiled linseed oil, just painted from the outside it a perfect protection. Wax dipping makes the box extremely heavy and is not very protective
darn, I've already painted mine for the season! - next year!
Eco Wood treatment is quite a bit cheaper, comes in powder form you can mix yourself in a tub and dip woodware in to protect all sides. Treatment lasts for years and completely safe.
My Tung Oil experience has been great! Great looking boxes and easy to use. Nothing gummy or messy in my situation. Recoat time is a little long...about 24 hrs. Wonder what happened to you Tung oil experience? Thanks for the cool product info! I’ll try that stuff if I can find it in MN
Jeremy Martin I’ve seen many formulations of Tung Oil and some of them have drying agents added that I try to avoid. The true tung oil is really sticky and takes forever to cure.
100% Pure Tung Oil is FDA approved for food contact and has no additives, harsh chemicals or VOCs. I use it and my hives are protected and beautiful! I place the hives out in the sun and they dry fast.
I dip the edges and seams of the new (assembled) hive body in very hot beeswax, for about 10 seconds each dip. This year I'm thinking of simple coating the whole box in beeswax (if I have enough wax!).
What about Thompson's WaterSeal Waterproofer Plus Wood Protector, Clear
????
why you don't buy apimaye thermo hive??
Love u bro no homo I have 200 bee hives
Bachir Kanawati Lots of reasons.... I’m already fully invested in wood. I like being able to make components with easily available materials. I like being able to use components interchangeably. I like the system I have now with removable insulation and wraps. I can wrap and unwrap my hives now in seconds. Plus those hives are not very pleasing to look at in my opinion.
I really enjoy your videos and I honestly wish you did get the things that you use as you seem to really enjoy them!
I do have one unanswered question though, instead of paint what do you use to color your different hives? (Like the resource hive) I'm not at all involved in beekeeping I'm just legitimately curious, oh and thank you!
Lanoris That is just paint, but it’s painted OVER the sealer. It’s only there for the splash of color. Not meant to protect the wood. And it’s only on one side of the box.
Thanks for Sharing! I have not heard of polyway before. I may be getting a gallon sometime soon. :)
What is the white plastic layer you placed on top? Sorry, I didn't quite catch what you called it. TIA!!
It's a piece of coroplast. Corrugated plastic.
I scorch mine every year, nothing I have found in 36 years works that well on the inside of the hive, on the outside, free paint from your hometown paint store works as well as anything. Unless your anal about color scheme, I would suggest checking that out, I paint several hundred boxes every year and I still have my very first 10 frame hive! I agree with making sure you seal those end joints with a permanent coating day one though. My advise is use something to protect your investment, for me scorching and free paint works great. But I love this Vino Farm guy 👍
Richard Hamey You can call me Jim. So far, this stuff is working for me. I’ll have a report in a couple years if it doesn’t work out. Thanks for sharing.