Would a Hunter Century C-16 be much different electricly? Trying to clean up one from pre 1946. It works good but its missing the screw for the oscillating and the screw that holds the bullet cap of the head on is bent. The power cord to has electrical tape all over it and the head wire is frayed in several places. Was my Grandfathers,then my Dad's, and now its mine so I want to clean the internals and repaint the outer shell and make proper repairs.thanks for any info,great video!
I just bought a Hunter CG16 and I do have a few questions....the motor does get quite warm to the touch....not enough to burn my hand but it's definitely warm. Also Low tends to be really really low and the blades stop pretty quickly since it has the lighter blades. Is this all Normal?
Mine is the same basically. If you have a multimeter. Connect it as an Ammeter, On High Speed the current should not exceed the name palte value. If it does, a cleaning (blow carb cleaner through the oil holee) and re-lube (plenty of 3 in 1 oil and fresh grease in the gear box will reduce/eliminate excessive friction.
Thank you! It seems mine is a bastardized 1970's unit made for a movie prop (swapmeet seller had a lot of studio lighting / tripods / memorabilia etc). A cut non-cloth ground wire, 'modern' cloth-wrapped line / motor wires exist, with a more 'modern' square plastic switch. Same capacitor as yours (although a bit rusty). I have a feeling once I go through it I'll find high resistance in the motor switch, or possibly a partially shorted speed reactor. As for the oscillator, the arm is attached and flopping about, but the screw / bushing that attaches it to the rotating hub is missing. Is is possible to get measurements on the screw? Once I Have some time to play with the cup brush and some cold-galvanizing spray to protect the steel base plate / tinker with the multimeter, I'm hoping to measure the inductance and resistance of the reactor and switch somehow. I have a couple other small vintage fans, and they could use a good cleaning / lubrication, too. 3-in-1 used to have a product in a blue can called 'motor' oil. If still have my old can, I'll use that. Otherwise, I can go shopping and pick up some 20W or thinner synthetic lubricant, I suppose. Again, thanks for spending the time giving us a tour of the guts; it will help many others, too!
Hi there. There is a wave washer between the arm and bell crank It is held in place by the screw's shoulder.. Here are the screw dimensions: ROUND HEAD SLOTTED SHOULDER SCREW: 0.600" DIAMETER HEAD 0.373" SHOULDER DIAMETER FOR 3/8" HOLE 0.211" SHOULDER LENGTH 3/8"-32 LEFT HAND THREAD 0.216" THREAD LENGTH
Would a Hunter Century C-16 be much different electricly? Trying to clean up one from pre 1946. It works good but its missing the screw for the oscillating and the screw that holds the bullet cap of the head on is bent. The power cord to has electrical tape all over it and the head wire is frayed in several places. Was my Grandfathers,then my Dad's, and now its mine so I want to clean the internals and repaint the outer shell and make proper repairs.thanks for any info,great video!
I just bought a Hunter CG16 and I do have a few questions....the motor does get quite warm to the touch....not enough to burn my hand but it's definitely warm. Also Low tends to be really really low and the blades stop pretty quickly since it has the lighter blades. Is this all Normal?
Mine is the same basically. If you have a multimeter. Connect it as an Ammeter, On High Speed the current should not exceed the name palte value. If it does, a cleaning (blow carb cleaner through the oil holee) and re-lube (plenty of 3 in 1 oil and fresh grease in the gear box will reduce/eliminate excessive friction.
Thank you! It seems mine is a bastardized 1970's unit made for a movie prop (swapmeet seller had a lot of studio lighting / tripods / memorabilia etc). A cut non-cloth ground wire, 'modern' cloth-wrapped line / motor wires exist, with a more 'modern' square plastic switch. Same capacitor as yours (although a bit rusty). I have a feeling once I go through it I'll find high resistance in the motor switch, or possibly a partially shorted speed reactor. As for the oscillator, the arm is attached and flopping about, but the screw / bushing that attaches it to the rotating hub is missing. Is is possible to get measurements on the screw? Once I Have some time to play with the cup brush and some cold-galvanizing spray to protect the steel base plate / tinker with the multimeter, I'm hoping to measure the inductance and resistance of the reactor and switch somehow. I have a couple other small vintage fans, and they could use a good cleaning / lubrication, too. 3-in-1 used to have a product in a blue can called 'motor' oil. If still have my old can, I'll use that. Otherwise, I can go shopping and pick up some 20W or thinner synthetic lubricant, I suppose. Again, thanks for spending the time giving us a tour of the guts; it will help many others, too!
Hi there.
There is a wave washer between the arm and bell crank It is held in place by the screw's shoulder..
Here are the screw dimensions:
ROUND HEAD SLOTTED SHOULDER SCREW:
0.600" DIAMETER HEAD
0.373" SHOULDER DIAMETER FOR 3/8" HOLE
0.211" SHOULDER LENGTH
3/8"-32 LEFT HAND THREAD
0.216" THREAD LENGTH