This video was very helpful to me, I have run both the carbon clean and the top engine clean products through my 2014 FXT using the procedure shown here. Thanks so much!!
The carbon buildup does not come from the fuel, it comes from the OIL in the engine. You see, the small amounts of blow-by gasses that flow past the piston rings and into the crankcase are vented via the PCV valve. These gasses carry small amounts of crankcase oil vapors directly to the intake manifold. These oil vapors tend to STICK to the hot surfaces around the inlet valves, turning into carbon as they heat up over time. So if you disconnect the hose from the PCV valve then you get rid of the problem of carbon forming on the intake valves. You then have a massive vacuum leak, so you have to plug up the open hose that used to be connected to the PCV valve. Now the system simply thinks that your PCV valve is plugged and no gases are coming from the PCV valve and that's just fine. The PCV valve should be left open so that excess pressure from the crankcase can be vented into the air. Of course you have to re-connect all of the stuff each year to pass your emissions tests, but that's easy to do. So just delete the PCV valve this way and you totally get rid of any 'ADDITIONAL' carbon buildup problems, it won't clean the carbon buildup that you already have. To remove any existing carbon deposits you have on the intake valves it is best to use something called WALNUT SHELL BLASTING, something that is similar to sand-blasting, except that they use small bits of walnut shells because they won't do damage to the engine if they happen to get into the engine itself. Many BMW and Volkswagen dealers offer this service now.
I currently work in a Subaru service centre, and performing a upper engine clean (carbon clean) is a very effective way to prevent carbon buildup on basic and especially direct injection type engines. What I usually do to a customers car is perform the carbon clean (here in Australia, we use the pressurised can version called "upper engine cleaner") on a warmed up engine. After finishing the process, I usually drain the oil (oil get contaminated with carbon residue etc) and throw on a brand new oil filter To top it off, a bottle of Subaru fuel additive (any fuel injector additive) will prolong and prevent any carbon buildup which in turn causes issues down the road (usual symptoms are rough engine idle,hard starts,bad fuel consumption and worse case scenario engine failure due to seized intake valves.
Hey do you happen to know if an aftermarket air/oil separator would do any good in preventing carbon buildup? What about combination of AO-sep + Subie fuel additive? It's a dumb question, but I'd thought that you might have some more anecdotal experience on this particular matter.
I recently had Terra Clean service done to my 15 WRX at 30K, the publisher of this video has nothing to worry with only 5K on his car. Terra Clean DIT service is good option, however short of walnut blasting or using a nylon brush to scrub down the intake valves nothing is going to fully get rid of intake valve deposits, Terra Clean works only to a degree since the system injects the cleaning solution into the fuel rail. Since DI fuel does not touch the intake valves this is the concern. Terra Clean helps clean everything following the cylinders but I don't believe it will clean/help the buildup on the intake valves. Your best solution is short OCI and top quality fuels and a good run into the upper rpm range to increase heat which will aid in burn off of carbon, a good ole Italian tune up weekly, rev that motor
An oil separator wouldn't do anything in this particular case, it's just how car manufacturers designed the engine (being a direct injection system) When fuel is introduced into the cylinder via port injector, injectors spray fuel mist onto the intake valves and gets sucked into cylinder, as with direct injection, fuel gets injected into the cylinder directly bypassing the valves (fuel doesn't touch the intake valve, so no cleaning is happening, as petrol does have different types of additives to help with carbon issues. I tend to stick with higher octane premium fuels (I avoid unheard of petrol stations, as their fuels origin is unknown of) and higher octane fuels have better additives and R'N'D invested to combat carbon buildup With the BRZ /FT86/GT86 engines, the design of their fuel injection system eliminates carbon build with the use of direct injection as main and port injection as a slave. Which in all is a superior setup as it hits carbon build and fuel economy, reason why a lot of car manufacturers don't apply this setup more often is due to cost So, my advice to all Subaru owners (mainly later model vehicles) is to ensure you use a can of upper engine cleaner each service. If you are not sure, just do it anyway for peace of mind. the procedure I usually perform with upper engine cleaner is, warm engine up to operating temperature. Shut engine off and empty a can into the intake manfold (ONLY 1 CAN to prevent hydrolocking) and let the engine sit for about 15minutes for it to eat and loosen carbon. After 15 minutes, I start the car (most times, car will struggle to start)make sure you crank 3-4 seconds at a time with light application of throttle. AND WATCH THE SMOKE SHOW! Doing it with the engine running works, but it doesn't leave much stuff on top of the valve to soak and clean (Ps, I do not hold responsibility to any failures or screw ups, proceed with care or ask someone if In doubt) Kenny
mrh22a the spray one Subaru make is fantastic stuff I just wish they made a diesel safe one. I know three bond make one that is meant to work the same but it's not as good.
Every single service you suggest this? Doesn't that seem... overkill? I do my own oil changes, but if this was something someone did at the dealer you're talking probably $100+ USD for service now, every 3k miles. We don't have any recommendation for these for the FXT in the US which uses the FA20DIT, was thinking this would be more of a 30k type of inclusion - maybe yearly at most? What would the effect of running at higher RPM's do for this (using Paddles to keep myself around 4k RPM for a few minutes of straight highway driving) And I think it's a good call to do this before an oil change, maybe even a few days before, to get everything trapped in the oil/filter before change. What about the fuel additive, that's just there for a future buildup preventer? In the past I would put Techron in my tank about a week before I did an oil change.
I did this on my 2016 XT with 88k miles at 8.5 years of ownership. You would not believe how white the exhaust was, especially when rev'ing the engine between cleans. My engine did stall after the first time. I started it back at WOT like the instructions stated if it stalled. I have a second bottle will probably do this again in 6 months or so.
The dealer in my arra charges 349. For this!?!?!? Wow thanks buddy. They did this while i was still under warrenty only problem I had was a code came up to replace my gas cap.
My guy, what are the screens under your stereo screen/thermostat screen? We have a 15 xt and aint got nothin like that... sorry im a new to subaru, thanks for this video!!
Hi. How can I perform this clean if I am only able to get the CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner in my country and not the one you are using? I saw another video where a guy spray the whole can directly into the center of the system, taking out the sensor, but it seems that it could cause some issues? Thanks in advance.
I did a Lethal Injection on my 12 y.o. 5 speed manual Suzuki in the parking lot of a local McD's. (Duralube-) Thick plumes of white smoke everywhere. Behind the restaurant is an industrial area along a hwy. So I drove it hard to give it the old Italian tune up, high revs in the 5000 rpm range. The engine was howling. Still smoke everywhere, then when I figured it wasn't going to stall I wheeled it on the hwy for a good hard 60 km jaunt. The engine runs whisper quiet, like the day I drove it off the dealer lot.
I guess most of liquid detergent will go by pass the valve and become water vapor out of exhaust pipe. Just wondering how much it is real clean the intake valve?
I have to wonder if the improvement in emissions is offset by the carbon that got removed, given it appears to have passed into the atmosphere anyway via the tailpipe, when you did this process.
That's a good question, but remember the unburnt fuel that leaks through an open PCV into the atmosphere is many times more deleterious to the environment compared to fuel that is fully combusted in the catalytic converter. For a simple example, I'm told the unburnt methane gas is 25X worse than the CO2 that would be produced after it it burned. This is why it is strangely more responsible to burn off methane flares at gas wells compared to simply letting it leak without burning into the air. And it's why there has been so much effort put into EVAP systems, to hang onto those volatile molecules.
also.. do the egr delete, and oil catch can mods... never worry about this again. plus your engine will run much much better. well you'll also need an Accessport from Cobb and a tuner to remove the check engine light from removing egr
i think its called something else now. Top Engine Cleaner (SOA868V9160), a mist that removes soft carbon deposits from the intake plenum and valves, upper cylinders, and compression rings. Application requires Top Engine Cleaner Tool (SOA868V9430).
Yeah its all mostly the same stuff, but the motor treatment is more for oil/gas. If you have a GDI engine it'll clean carbon through the oil, but not great. My car was stalling so I got the Intake Valve cleaner, which you can do how this guy did if you can find the proper hose, idk wtf that is, so I just put it in the air intake, near the throttle body, and it goes past the MAF sensor so you don't do any damage to it. After doing it just once with the Seafoam I drove it hard, smoke flew everywhere, all my engine lights shot on and my car was driving very strange, then it cleared up and my car was great. The issue I had was people say to drive the car like you stole it! But no, you shouldn't on new GDI engines. You take it very slowly so it slowly moves through your system. Hammering the throttle just threw a massive portion of the cleaner into my intake at one time and you can damage your car that way, including your very expensive catalytic converter. Its hard getting proper information as everyones car is different.
Seafoam works the same way although I would use the Subaru cleaner if you own a Subaru. It is nice that an OEM makes a product like this for their vehicles rather than pretending they are no issues to worry about like carbon buildup. If your car is not under warranty anymore then either Seafoam or Subaru would be just fine.
Peter Grooms thanks for the reply. mine is still under warranty for 4k miles more. i just looked up on amazon and they have a kit that comes with fuel injector cleaner, throttle body cleaner and this. have you used the other two on your car? and if so, you should make another video so we can get informed and know what to do. haha. but anyhow, thanks for the video now i have a reference on how to do mines.
Subaru (and other manufacturers) make top end engine cleaners (like Seafoam) specifically for turbocharged engines. I drove my turbo 1.8 Audi to over 155k miles with a Seafoam treatment every oil change. It's perfectly safe.
They’re the same thing, chemically and both don’t do crap for intake cleaning. They do a decent job on the pistons, but not the intake valves. This is what supports the claims on the product. Notice they don’t say where the build-up is cleaned or how much. That’s key. They won’t harm your engine if you do it right, but they’re basically a waste of money. Save it for the walnut shell blasting you’ll need to do at 60-90k miles.
Ya plan on running a bottle through with my next oil change. I have a 2016 wrx, which intake hose did you use on the intake manifold? I see two in the area you were working on in mine, but can't tell exactly which to use.
With GDI engines doing the air induction service should be done every 12-15k miles. Now every 5k miles or oil change add a bottle of techron complete fuel system cleaner the black bottle not the grey to the gas tank or BG 44k. These 2 are the best fuel system cleaners the hyundai and kia engineers recommend them an at hyundai and kia we use all the bg fluids and cleaners same goes for Ford where i currently am a tech. I was a Hyundai and Kia master tech. Now I use the bg air induction cleaner as I have found it to be one of the best at cleaning carbon off the intake valves and pistons I also used it on my 2012 stage 2 sti and 2010 stage 2 evo x mr touring. Doing it every oil change is a little over kill but u def will have one clean carbon free engine. Just make sure your running a catch can and using rotella t6 5w40 oil. It will keep blow by to a minimum my sti never lost more then 1/4 of a quart every 3k miles.
Have you kept up this process since and seen good results? My 2015 XT is about to pass 40k miles and I've noticed horrible knocking at certain loads/RPMs more than likely caused by excessive carbon buildup, thinking about trying this.
That engine doesn't have enough miles on it to remove anything. Funny how people think that probably dozens of engineers at Subie never thought this enough of a rampant issue to warrant including in their regular maintenance. It's an issue for people who drive primarily at city speeds and temps...and use poor quality oil which they fail to change regularly. My intakes(which I scoped) look fine after 90k(2014 XT) so it's not that ALL cars will foul up after xxxxxx miles.
TakeDeadAim What do speeds have to do with engine work? RPMs is what counts. City use actually runs engines at higher RPMs than highway, which tends to heat up and burn off more carbon build-up. Nice try though!
This is the same top engine cleaner tool used by Toyota. Here's the instruction video on how to use it: th-cam.com/video/zdlK3lhLIfY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ToyotaCompleteMaintenanceCare
Really dislike how the fa sounds. The engine noises they make make it sound broke.u have a wrx and hate the tapping sound it makes when revving. Dont know how else to describe it. Just sounds like everything's going to fall apart.
I believe revving your engine will cause a boost situation so positive pressure in the plenum rather than vacuum. At idle, no boost and negative PSI the engine vacuum (negative PSI) is pulling in the liquid however you can see that when you press on the accelerator the fluid flow stops. The other problem is the fact that a mist or fog of liquid would be a much better and uniform application that a solid flow of liquid. I recommend skipping the lame Subaru factory part and cleaner, purchasing Seafoam and a reusable sprayer like this (www.tooldex.com/milwaukee-sprayer-1002-sure-shot-sprayers.html?___store=default&GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKEAjwmf6-BRDi9fSN7Ijt1wUSJAASawcjIi_04Ibz7m-l65Z3mOoRJG-47BG6iQiz2vnyQt16UxoCg57w_wcB) which sprays a fine mist. Using the same vacuum hose you can use the fore mentioned can to properly introduce the fuel system cleaner in the intake tract. If you follow seafoam instructions, spray then let it sit for 10 minutes then run it again you will see a significant amount of smoke with a blue hue to it which to me is representative of carbon burn off. I will try to make a video the next time I do this. I do it BEFORE every oil change to prevent oil contamination.
Fa20 engine you have has both direct and port injection. Depending on load the respective injectors spray. Low loads----both run-----high loads----only direct injection. With this setup, you shouldn't have a build up on the valves.
Thats an FA20DIT should be the same as the WRX and has only direct injection. Its not an FA20 like the brz has which has both port and direct injection
Absolutely DO NOT use CRC intake valve cleaner on any GDI vehicle. Especially on Ford EcoBoost or VW GDI engines. Ford actually has posted a bulletin against chemical valve cleaning. Manual cleaning is the only way to go. CRC has had several cases of having to much carbon break off and causing valve and piston damage. And they dont take responsibility for their defective products. I may include that I'm a 20 year certified tech as well. I stay clear of CRC.
Excuse my ignorance if this is wrong,... But aren't GDI (gasoline DIRECT INJECTION) and DIT (DIRECT INJECTION turbo) the same thing.. Sounds like marketing differences in naming between companies
@@Camilo19832001 completely wrong info here MaKos. The turbo models are most definitely GDI engines...and that is what this video and discussion are about.
you kinda got a little bit wrong sort of a lot of your carbon buildup is because the valve is closing at the wrong time by nanoseconds so the carbon is solely from the explosion and exhaust gases there shouldn't be any exhaust gases coming through the intake valve only through the exhaust exhaust valve should always have carbon build up it's just normal that's no way getting around it but if you're getting carbon buildup on an intake valve has nothing to do with the import jection has to do with the timing of the intake valve opening closing or the valve guy could be bad as well if your valve guide or valve seats or Bad Day Giveaway you're always going to have this problem and you're going to have loss of compression lost compression loss of torque poor fuel economy it's a domino effect so your theory of what you're saying is kind of right but wrong as well so but this is just what I know as a mechanic
I spent an hour using seafoam from the MAP port to find out there is a tool for this.... Thank you for posting, I would have never known about this.
@@adriansdigitalbasement I ordered the tool for next time. Thank you for posting
@@07BlueRu so you do not use the cleaning tool in the map port?
@@myfukinarmhurts I didn't know it existsed loo
This video was very helpful to me, I have run both the carbon clean and the top engine clean products through my 2014 FXT using the procedure shown here. Thanks so much!!
The carbon buildup does not come from the fuel, it comes from the OIL in the engine. You see, the small amounts of blow-by gasses that flow past the piston rings and into the crankcase are vented via the PCV valve. These gasses carry small amounts of crankcase oil vapors directly to the intake manifold. These oil vapors tend to STICK to the hot surfaces around the inlet valves, turning into carbon as they heat up over time. So if you disconnect the hose from the PCV valve then you get rid of the problem of carbon forming on the intake valves. You then have a massive vacuum leak, so you have to plug up the open hose that used to be connected to the PCV valve. Now the system simply thinks that your PCV valve is plugged and no gases are coming from the PCV valve and that's just fine. The PCV valve should be left open so that excess pressure from the crankcase can be vented into the air. Of course you have to re-connect all of the stuff each year to pass your emissions tests, but that's easy to do. So just delete the PCV valve this way and you totally get rid of any 'ADDITIONAL' carbon buildup problems, it won't clean the carbon buildup that you already have.
To remove any existing carbon deposits you have on the intake valves it is best to use something called WALNUT SHELL BLASTING, something that is similar to sand-blasting, except that they use small bits of walnut shells because they won't do damage to the engine if they happen to get into the engine itself. Many BMW and Volkswagen dealers offer this service now.
I currently work in a Subaru service centre, and performing a upper engine clean (carbon clean) is a very effective way to prevent carbon buildup on basic and especially direct injection type engines.
What I usually do to a customers car is perform the carbon clean (here in Australia, we use the pressurised can version called "upper engine cleaner") on a warmed up engine. After finishing the process, I usually drain the oil (oil get contaminated with carbon residue etc) and throw on a brand new oil filter
To top it off, a bottle of Subaru fuel additive (any fuel injector additive) will prolong and prevent any carbon buildup which in turn causes issues down the road (usual symptoms are rough engine idle,hard starts,bad fuel consumption and worse case scenario engine failure due to seized intake valves.
Hey do you happen to know if an aftermarket air/oil separator would do any good in preventing carbon buildup? What about combination of AO-sep + Subie fuel additive?
It's a dumb question, but I'd thought that you might have some more anecdotal experience on this particular matter.
I recently had Terra Clean service done to my 15 WRX at 30K, the publisher of this video has nothing to worry with only 5K on his car. Terra Clean DIT service is good option, however short of walnut blasting or using a nylon brush to scrub down the intake valves nothing is going to fully get rid of intake valve deposits, Terra Clean works only to a degree since the system injects the cleaning solution into the fuel rail. Since DI fuel does not touch the intake valves this is the concern. Terra Clean helps clean everything following the cylinders but I don't believe it will clean/help the buildup on the intake valves. Your best solution is short OCI and top quality fuels and a good run into the upper rpm range to increase heat which will aid in burn off of carbon, a good ole Italian tune up weekly, rev that motor
An oil separator wouldn't do anything in this particular case, it's just how car manufacturers designed the engine (being a direct injection system)
When fuel is introduced into the cylinder via port injector, injectors spray fuel mist onto the intake valves and gets sucked into cylinder, as with direct injection, fuel gets injected into the cylinder directly bypassing the valves (fuel doesn't touch the intake valve, so no cleaning is happening, as petrol does have different types of additives to help with carbon issues.
I tend to stick with higher octane premium fuels (I avoid unheard of petrol stations, as their fuels origin is unknown of) and higher octane fuels have better additives and R'N'D invested to combat carbon buildup
With the BRZ /FT86/GT86 engines, the design of their fuel injection system eliminates carbon build with the use of direct injection as main and port injection as a slave. Which in all is a superior setup as it hits carbon build and fuel economy, reason why a lot of car manufacturers don't apply this setup more often is due to cost
So, my advice to all Subaru owners (mainly later model vehicles) is to ensure you use a can of upper engine cleaner each service.
If you are not sure, just do it anyway for peace of mind.
the procedure I usually perform with upper engine cleaner is, warm engine up to operating temperature. Shut engine off and empty a can into the intake manfold (ONLY 1 CAN to prevent hydrolocking) and let the engine sit for about 15minutes for it to eat and loosen carbon.
After 15 minutes, I start the car (most times, car will struggle to start)make sure you crank 3-4 seconds at a time with light application of throttle.
AND WATCH THE SMOKE SHOW! Doing it with the engine running works, but it doesn't leave much stuff on top of the valve to soak and clean
(Ps, I do not hold responsibility to any failures or screw ups, proceed with care or ask someone if In doubt)
Kenny
mrh22a the spray one Subaru make is fantastic stuff I just wish they made a diesel safe one. I know three bond make one that is meant to work the same but it's not as good.
Every single service you suggest this? Doesn't that seem... overkill? I do my own oil changes, but if this was something someone did at the dealer you're talking probably $100+ USD for service now, every 3k miles. We don't have any recommendation for these for the FXT in the US which uses the FA20DIT, was thinking this would be more of a 30k type of inclusion - maybe yearly at most? What would the effect of running at higher RPM's do for this (using Paddles to keep myself around 4k RPM for a few minutes of straight highway driving)
And I think it's a good call to do this before an oil change, maybe even a few days before, to get everything trapped in the oil/filter before change. What about the fuel additive, that's just there for a future buildup preventer? In the past I would put Techron in my tank about a week before I did an oil change.
Do you still use the Carbon Clean on your Forester? Can you post an update?
I did this on my 2016 XT with 88k miles at 8.5 years of ownership. You would not believe how white the exhaust was, especially when rev'ing the engine between cleans. My engine did stall after the first time. I started it back at WOT like the instructions stated if it stalled. I have a second bottle will probably do this again in 6 months or so.
Did you notice an improvement after the first use? Driveability/idle/gas mileage? 100k FA20DIT owner asking
@@chugns1481 not really 😔
Thank you for the video there's not a lot of videos on the new FXT.
wish it actually showed where you pulled the hose from
Which specific vacuum hose is that? Can you share a pic? Thanks.
The dealer in my arra charges 349. For this!?!?!? Wow thanks buddy. They did this while i was still under warrenty only problem I had was a code came up to replace my gas cap.
Can't find the Suburu stuff anywhere in the UK, they just don't seem to stock it over here for some reason :/
Does anyone know where can I connect this hose too? I drive a 2014 WRX.. I’ve never done this before and scared.
Thanks! Too bad there's no way to confirm this actually keeps the engine cleaner...
Why doesn't Subaru use this during the maintenance appointments?
They do.. for $200 service 😂
My guy, what are the screens under your stereo screen/thermostat screen? We have a 15 xt and aint got nothin like that... sorry im a new to subaru, thanks for this video!!
Hi. How can I perform this clean if I am only able to get the CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner in my country and not the one you are using? I saw another video where a guy spray the whole can directly into the center of the system, taking out the sensor, but it seems that it could cause some issues? Thanks in advance.
very good vid... how about a followup? have you done more of these treatments? i have a 2015 WRX and will begin these soon. thanks
Side note I have an 18 XT would I still use the same hose to connect the cleaner bottle to?
my left ear enjoyed this
Dealership told me my 2015 wrx has an ej20. The fa is only in certain cars rn and they only have the fa24 rn
Looks good. Perhaps if I do this I will need a buddy. Good video and very descriptive.
This was pretty useful to a new Subaru owner.
So 6yrs later we need an update. Did this carbon clean kill your car? Or anyone else's who's tried this.
No it doesn’t kill your engine
I did a Lethal Injection on my 12 y.o. 5 speed manual Suzuki in the parking lot of a local McD's. (Duralube-) Thick plumes of white smoke everywhere. Behind the restaurant is an industrial area along a hwy. So I drove it hard to give it the old Italian tune up, high revs in the 5000 rpm range. The engine was howling. Still smoke everywhere, then when I figured it wasn't going to stall I wheeled it on the hwy for a good hard 60 km jaunt. The engine runs whisper quiet, like the day I drove it off the dealer lot.
I guess most of liquid detergent will go by pass the valve and become water vapor out of exhaust pipe. Just wondering how much it is real clean the intake valve?
Glad to see I'm not the only one rocking the -170 oil filters on an XT!
I'm using the 170 on the Ascent. The blue subaru filter doesn't even fill the holder.
What’s the benefit of using the 170 over the recommended 160?
unless they changed the forester engine size mine is a 2.5 not a 2.0
Where did you find the tool?
Where did you actually plugged the siphon is it to the upper hose or the bottom?
I have to wonder if the improvement in emissions is offset by the carbon that got removed, given it appears to have passed into the atmosphere anyway via the tailpipe, when you did this process.
That's a good question, but remember the unburnt fuel that leaks through an open PCV into the atmosphere is many times more deleterious to the environment compared to fuel that is fully combusted in the catalytic converter. For a simple example, I'm told the unburnt methane gas is 25X worse than the CO2 that would be produced after it it burned. This is why it is strangely more responsible to burn off methane flares at gas wells compared to simply letting it leak without burning into the air. And it's why there has been so much effort put into EVAP systems, to hang onto those volatile molecules.
lol you got so lucky with that bottle not falling into your belts!
Don’t you have to idle the engine to 2500 rpm while adding cleaner? Two person job?? Thanks
also.. do the egr delete, and oil catch can mods... never worry about this again. plus your engine will run much much better. well you'll also need an Accessport from Cobb and a tuner to remove the check engine light from removing egr
NICE DIY MAINTENANCE VLOG!!!!!!
how do you have your boost pressure in psi vs kpa can anyone explaine how to do this ?
Thank you for the great video. I have the same car. Could you let me know what the cleaning tool part number is please?
i think its called something else now. Top Engine Cleaner (SOA868V9160), a mist that removes soft carbon
deposits from the intake plenum and valves, upper cylinders, and
compression rings. Application requires Top Engine Cleaner Tool
(SOA868V9430).
Do you have to remove maf sensor on top(not the one on the intake) when performing this through the vacuum line?
does doing this also clean fuel injectors or only for that carbon build up ?
The car only has 5000 miles on it everything would practically be new so why bother doing this?
Going to have to give this a try!
Does seafoam motor treatment do the same thing
Yeah its all mostly the same stuff, but the motor treatment is more for oil/gas. If you have a GDI engine it'll clean carbon through the oil, but not great. My car was stalling so I got the Intake Valve cleaner, which you can do how this guy did if you can find the proper hose, idk wtf that is, so I just put it in the air intake, near the throttle body, and it goes past the MAF sensor so you don't do any damage to it. After doing it just once with the Seafoam I drove it hard, smoke flew everywhere, all my engine lights shot on and my car was driving very strange, then it cleared up and my car was great. The issue I had was people say to drive the car like you stole it! But no, you shouldn't on new GDI engines. You take it very slowly so it slowly moves through your system. Hammering the throttle just threw a massive portion of the cleaner into my intake at one time and you can damage your car that way, including your very expensive catalytic converter. Its hard getting proper information as everyones car is different.
Can someone provide more detail on which vacuum hose you used?
Chong Gui Zhao anyone?
would seafoam work the same way? or would it be better to use the subaru one?
Seafoam works the same way although I would use the Subaru cleaner if you own a Subaru. It is nice that an OEM makes a product like this for their vehicles rather than pretending they are no issues to worry about like carbon buildup. If your car is not under warranty anymore then either Seafoam or Subaru would be just fine.
Peter Grooms thanks for the reply. mine is still under warranty for 4k miles more. i just looked up on amazon and they have a kit that comes with fuel injector cleaner, throttle body cleaner and this. have you used the other two on your car? and if so, you should make another video so we can get informed and know what to do. haha. but anyhow, thanks for the video now i have a reference on how to do mines.
almethus gutierrez do not seafoam turbo engines
Subaru (and other manufacturers) make top end engine cleaners (like Seafoam) specifically for turbocharged engines. I drove my turbo 1.8 Audi to over 155k miles with a Seafoam treatment every oil change. It's perfectly safe.
They’re the same thing, chemically and both don’t do crap for intake cleaning. They do a decent job on the pistons, but not the intake valves. This is what supports the claims on the product. Notice they don’t say where the build-up is cleaned or how much. That’s key. They won’t harm your engine if you do it right, but they’re basically a waste of money. Save it for the walnut shell blasting you’ll need to do at 60-90k miles.
I do have a Subie F XT 2.0, Can dealer do this for me during schedule maintenance? (Do they actually do that?)
Joseph Wagnon yes they do, they charge a 100 dollars
what's the difference between the stuff you used and the upper engine cleaner?
Ya plan on running a bottle through with my next oil change. I have a 2016 wrx, which intake hose did you use on the intake manifold? I see two in the area you were working on in mine, but can't tell exactly which to use.
its the one with the hose clamp
Cost. Both are useless though.
Can you do this on non-turbo Subarus?
Yes. 3 years and no one has responded... I'm sure you already had the answer by now 🤣
Change the oil write away.
Is it necessary to change the oil after this? It's not getting into the oil case unless through blow by.
Can I use the MAP line directly on the of the block??
Did you ever try using the map line directly?
Can confirm it works from the MAP port on my WRX FA20DIT.
With GDI engines doing the air induction service should be done every 12-15k miles. Now every 5k miles or oil change add a bottle of techron complete fuel system cleaner the black bottle not the grey to the gas tank or BG 44k. These 2 are the best fuel system cleaners the hyundai and kia engineers recommend them an at hyundai and kia we use all the bg fluids and cleaners same goes for Ford where i currently am a tech. I was a Hyundai and Kia master tech. Now I use the bg air induction cleaner as I have found it to be one of the best at cleaning carbon off the intake valves and pistons I also used it on my 2012 stage 2 sti and 2010 stage 2 evo x mr touring. Doing it every oil change is a little over kill but u def will have one clean carbon free engine. Just make sure your running a catch can and using rotella t6 5w40 oil. It will keep blow by to a minimum my sti never lost more then 1/4 of a quart every 3k miles.
Have you kept up this process since and seen good results? My 2015 XT is about to pass 40k miles and I've noticed horrible knocking at certain loads/RPMs more than likely caused by excessive carbon buildup, thinking about trying this.
Walnut blasting is due.
That engine doesn't have enough miles on it to remove anything. Funny how people think that probably dozens of engineers at Subie never thought this enough of a rampant issue to warrant including in their regular maintenance. It's an issue for people who drive primarily at city speeds and temps...and use poor quality oil which they fail to change regularly. My intakes(which I scoped) look fine after 90k(2014 XT) so it's not that ALL cars will foul up after xxxxxx miles.
TakeDeadAim What do speeds have to do with engine work? RPMs is what counts. City use actually runs engines at higher RPMs than highway, which tends to heat up and burn off more carbon build-up. Nice try though!
Isn’t this bad for your FA20?
Do you need to change your oil after this?
@@adriansdigitalbasement Hey thanks! Currently at 18.5k miles on my 18 WRX.
thank you
awesome!
This is the same top engine cleaner tool used by Toyota. Here's the instruction video on how to use it: th-cam.com/video/zdlK3lhLIfY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ToyotaCompleteMaintenanceCare
You did this after 5,000 miles......... lol
Who knew the fuel system on my '25 Forester would be the same as a 30yr old VW?
How does the car feel after you did this? Will do this on my 16' wrx eventually I only have around 7500kms in mine.
+Adrian Black yeah true! Probably won't notice anything now most likely in the future$
Really dislike how the fa sounds. The engine noises they make make it sound broke.u have a wrx and hate the tapping sound it makes when revving. Dont know how else to describe it. Just sounds like everything's going to fall apart.
Those are the injectors very common noise on any DIT engine not just subaru
😧😮🤭 you left no room to place your vape with those gauges!!
I believe revving your engine will cause a boost situation so positive pressure in the plenum rather than vacuum. At idle, no boost and negative PSI the engine vacuum (negative PSI) is pulling in the liquid however you can see that when you press on the accelerator the fluid flow stops. The other problem is the fact that a mist or fog of liquid would be a much better and uniform application that a solid flow of liquid. I recommend skipping the lame Subaru factory part and cleaner, purchasing Seafoam and a reusable sprayer like this (www.tooldex.com/milwaukee-sprayer-1002-sure-shot-sprayers.html?___store=default&GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKEAjwmf6-BRDi9fSN7Ijt1wUSJAASawcjIi_04Ibz7m-l65Z3mOoRJG-47BG6iQiz2vnyQt16UxoCg57w_wcB) which sprays a fine mist. Using the same vacuum hose you can use the fore mentioned can to properly introduce the fuel system cleaner in the intake tract. If you follow seafoam instructions, spray then let it sit for 10 minutes then run it again you will see a significant amount of smoke with a blue hue to it which to me is representative of carbon burn off. I will try to make a video the next time I do this. I do it BEFORE every oil change to prevent oil contamination.
Old IT material + Subaru Forester XT like me => subscribe :D
Do t do this with the valve all the way open. 1/3
I think seafoam would be better
Do you use seafoam?
I use the intake spray one every 30k miles
Why every Subaru start up sound like shit and so loud?
Not every Subaru but the DIT cars do it to warm up the cat faster...In fact every DIT engine I have heard does this.
Fa20 engine you have has both direct and port injection. Depending on load the respective injectors spray. Low loads----both run-----high loads----only direct injection. With this setup, you shouldn't have a build up on the valves.
Thats an FA20DIT should be the same as the WRX and has only direct injection. Its not an FA20 like the brz has which has both port and direct injection
You are thinking about a different car, thats the brz. FXT doesnt have port injection
Absolutely DO NOT use CRC intake valve cleaner on any GDI vehicle. Especially on Ford EcoBoost or VW GDI engines. Ford actually has posted a bulletin against chemical valve cleaning. Manual cleaning is the only way to go. CRC has had several cases of having to much carbon break off and causing valve and piston damage. And they dont take responsibility for their defective products. I may include that I'm a 20 year certified tech as well. I stay clear of CRC.
Loren Beesley subarus are not GDI engines
Excuse my ignorance if this is wrong,... But aren't GDI (gasoline DIRECT INJECTION) and DIT (DIRECT INJECTION turbo) the same thing.. Sounds like marketing differences in naming between companies
@@Camilo19832001 completely wrong info here MaKos. The turbo models are most definitely GDI engines...and that is what this video and discussion are about.
Run Gumout every month and there is no need for this.
This mf didn’t even show where the hose came from 😂
Part that scared me was when he guessed which might be a good one.....jebus...
Sir you have no clue what you’re doing
you kinda got a little bit wrong sort of a lot of your carbon buildup is because the valve is closing at the wrong time by nanoseconds so the carbon is solely from the explosion and exhaust gases there shouldn't be any exhaust gases coming through the intake valve only through the exhaust exhaust valve should always have carbon build up it's just normal that's no way getting around it but if you're getting carbon buildup on an intake valve has nothing to do with the import jection has to do with the timing of the intake valve opening closing or the valve guy could be bad as well if your valve guide or valve seats or Bad Day Giveaway you're always going to have this problem and you're going to have loss of compression lost compression loss of torque poor fuel economy it's a domino effect so your theory of what you're saying is kind of right but wrong as well so but this is just what I know as a mechanic
Get a catch can which will stop part of the build up.
does an air oil separator work as similar as a catch can?
@@all.terrain.pilot01 yes