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Beachcomber Bob
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2011
Allsorts and random stuff from my workshop.
Some short vids of my finished projects. I post my step by step, annotated builds on Tumblr.
bob.johnstone@live.co.uk
Some short vids of my finished projects. I post my step by step, annotated builds on Tumblr.
bob.johnstone@live.co.uk
วีดีโอ
Ender 3 MINTEMP Error Fix
มุมมอง 3711 หลายเดือนก่อน
"Modern Jazz Samba" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
Reasons To Be Cheerful Part 3 12 version
มุมมอง 23ปีที่แล้ว
Re-upload of previous channel content. Fair use. For education/analysis. No income derived from this video interpretation.
Public Information Film Don't Overcrowd Your Car 360p
มุมมอง 1.3Kปีที่แล้ว
Re-upload of a British public information film from the 1960's. Fair use, for education/analysis.
Martian Fighting Machine Scale Model
มุมมอง 1142 ปีที่แล้ว
3D printed and metal parts, with home-made electronics sound effects. #shorts
DREDD - LawGiver pistol prop - voice control test.
มุมมอง 4004 ปีที่แล้ว
DREDD - LawGiver pistol prop - voice control test.
Warehouse 13 Tesla Pistol Prop Replica Showreel
มุมมอง 3314 ปีที่แล้ว
Warehouse 13 Tesla Pistol Prop Replica Showreel
Centec 2 Milling Machine - New Electrics
มุมมอง 5755 ปีที่แล้ว
Centec 2 Milling Machine - New Electrics
Centec 2 Milling Machine Riser Block Part 2
มุมมอง 1K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Centec 2 Milling Machine Riser Block Part 2
hello bob ! i am about to start making some clamping lugs for my riser ... " a question.".i am thinking of making 6 clamping lugs for each level and when painted will look quiet eye pleasing . the nuts being polished brass .. on thinking on this i think it will decrease the clamping force or will it ? these centec mills are a work of art .. i now have two ! ! one is for horizontal milling un tuther is for vertical milling.. saves me swapping and changing every time as i am no longer a spring chicken . bob do you want a rotary table ? its an 8 " and brand new when i got it !! and too heavy for my poor old body a 4" would be much better and would suit my "centec s "without looking out of place .and also save me back.. bob keep in touch regards laurence
Frankly, I took my lead from the designers at Centec - if they've calculated that two clamps were sufficient for the loads, then who am I to argue - these guys all had engineering degrees I'm sure. If you think about it, those clamps are just to inhibit the dovetails from sliding back and forth. It's the length of the dovetails contact surfaces that allow it to bear the overhang of the head. It's up to you how you build your riser, but to me it's just making extra work for yourself. I know how you feel about lugging machinery about. I'm in the same boat. I needed to put my press up on the bench from it's storage space, and couldn't even lift the individual parts without help. I hate getting old....
Hey there. I was wondering if you could provide any instructions on how to build this? I know you only did this as a one off but it would be fun to have one of these.
I haven't any instructions per se, but back when I was building it, I posted annotated photo strips on Tumblr (search for beachcomberbob and you'll find me). You may have to scroll down quite a bit . Alternatively, if you've got $1800 you can buy this actual one (including the antique 'screen accurate' storage case). The original buyer pulled out at the start of Covid, so it's been stored ever since. If that seems expensive, consider that the mass produced (non-functioning) plastic replica retailed at $1200 without the antique box. Coupled with the fact that it's a '1 of 1' limited edition, and it's quite reasonable.
@beachcomberbob3496 Thank you for the offer, but I'm gonna have to pass on that. I don't exactly have that kind of money right now.
Thanks for this. Im doing the same with my switch. The pitting is severe so may have to make new pins.
Not an impossible task, but good luck! Try sanding out the pitting first though (unless it's deeper than 30% the thickness of the material) then packing out to adjust the slack.
@beachcomberbob3496 Thanks. I'll take it fully apart first to examine it. I gave it an ultrasonic bath just this morning then saw the pitting. I'm sure it should be fine if I don't manage to break anything, with help from your video off course. 😀
I want one
Well it is still for sale...
@@beachcomberbob3496 Wow, really. Link to the sale please
@@Zeaiclies I'm an old props guy. I don't know about all this 'links' and things you're asking about. When I first made this, it was a one-off 'passion project', just to see if I could make a faithful replica that actually did stuff without video trickery or post production (much like my Farnsworth builds - check them out!). I had a couple of WH13 collectors approaching me with offers to buy it off me. But then the whole Covid thing hit, and they melted away and never came back. So it's been sat in the shipping box ever since, waiting for a 'super fan' willing to buy a one off 'hero plus' version of the thing that first appeared in episode 1-2. I'm not a conveyor belt kind of builder. My props are one-of-a-kind (like the thermal detonator from 'Return Of The Jedi', or the 'Lawgiver' from 'Dredd', or the 'Good Samaritan' from 'Hellboy') Once it's done, it's done, so there's always that '1 of 1' collector aspect. Oops, sorry, I seems to have gone on a bit long here......
@@beachcomberbob3496 So how do I purchase it or know how much it is? Where is it for sale?
i just found this old catalouge, it sais you can get new jaws if needed (page 51) ia801902.us.archive.org/32/items/WodenToolsCatalogueNo.571957/WodenToolsCatalogueNo.571957.pdf
Nice , i resently found one of those beasts. in a scrapyard. 38Kg of cast Iron, I Took it apart, and sandblastet the painted bodies, and had it repainted in just 5 houers, funny enough both out vices must come from the same batch, as my had the exact same casting errors as yours. I also had the same problem with the jaws, 2 screws broke, One in each. I tried to to get them out by some special tool, but it broke, so i drilled out the peaces, but have no way to cut new threats i these hardend steel. One Thing i miss is the release macanism, i will try to build it from scratch, based on your pictures. 2 questions: Do you have any idea how old they are, ? and where did you get that nice little sticker ?
bob...i am on the scrounge [again]the plates that you made up for the riser block ends . look very nice with the dark green back drop. any chance of me buying one ? i would like to copy you and make a ring light for my centec s, yes i have two now !and with a little bit of luck three in the very near future..the third one will be used for spares.. unless its easily fixable. ..look after your self .. regards laurence
Apologies for the late reply (medical problems). I can't lay my hands on the artwork I made to do the original etching (two computer failures ago) but give me a couple of days to see if I can take my own plate off without damaging it, and you can have that one. Then, when I get around to it I can make myself another. Sound good?
Good video Bob, I have a Myford ML7 with QC MARK 1, but I need a new external gears (related to the leadscrew) could you help me with dimensions and number o teeths of them tanks Romeo
Much as I would love to help you, that was the first and only time that I've come across a Mk1 gearbox, and I was doing it all 'on-the-fly' as it were. To my knowledge, Myford never published any documentation for it, because it was so short lived before they brought out the Mk2. So, in short, Myford probably won't be able to supply spare parts for it, and I have no documentation on the gears needed to mate it to the leadscrew. You could try lathes.co.uk - he has a wealth of information on all sorts of historical machinery, or a ML7 owners forum to see if someone there has an actual Mk1 that they can measure for you.
Fantastic. Many thanks for this Bob. Perfect text and wonderfully clear photos. This answers all the questions that you don't get answers for in the existing literature, including Myford manuals. Just one small question if I may: when I took my gearbox off (for bed regrind) there was no spacer strip between it and the bed. Should there be or have I misunderstood? The leadscrew seems to align ok without, but it's difficult to assess it accurately as it's so long (long bed) and therefore rather flexible at the RH end until the bearing goes back on. Part No. 230 does not feature in my original Super 7 manual diagram & list, but it does in the separate non-original QC Gearbox one. Super 7, Serial No. SKL 144495D.
If I remember rightly, the spacer strip is there to stand the gearbox off the bed so that it accurately lines up with the leadscrew shaft. I can only surmise that they found that, to get a milled mating surface on the Super 7 bed (as opposed to the ML7), they ended up having to machine away more of the raw casting than they first expected, and the packing plate was a cheap remedy. My concern would be, with the gearbox slightly cocked backwards, when the carriage is up the headstock end of the leadscrew and near to the box, it might cause the shaft to wear into the out-of-alignment bushings (over time). If you are finding that everything seems to be running smoothly without it, I wouldn't fret about it too much. It may be that it was only a problem on the short bed Super 7, which doesn't occur on your long bed version. If it does bother you that it's not there, it is just a simple piece of plate that can be easily made.
@@beachcomberbob3496 Many thanks for this reply. I'm still rebuilding after the regrind and I did check the top of the gearbox with the ELS level. You're right, it is very slightly cocked backwards. However, the saddle tracks smoothly right up to the headstock, winding the leadscrew manually with the clamp engaged, no undue resistance, and I didn't notice any bearing wear when installing the leadscrew. Hmm. I see the spacer strip is available from Myford at £10 so I think I'll grab that and see if it changes anything. Re your point about the long bed. Maybe the extra flexibility of the leadscrew compensates for any slight misalignment, or is that engineering heresy?
@@alanandrews3413 No - not heresy at all. When owning vintage equipment, some slack is always going to creep in. Just keep your gibs tight and take up the backlash! I would rather have my old Super 7 (which is as old as I am 😀) than anything being produced (for the same comparative price point) these days. Same with my Centec mill. By heck, they knew how to build 'em back then. Seriously though, the only thing I'd ever consider replacing with new parts are lead screws and nuts, although I have put up a video on a 'backlash eliminator' I made for the cross-slide. Perhaps you'll post up a video of your 'baby' when it's all done?
@@beachcomberbob3496 I don't know about posting a video. It's not a restoration, just a necessary dismantling and rebuild for getting the bed reground. As a self-taught amateur with no engineering training I've got nothing to show that videos like yours don't cover 10 times better. Incidentally, in case it's of interest, the regrind was done by Myford/RDG and they've done an excellent job, just skimming off the minimum necessary for trueing up, not worrying about the odd blemish that it's picked up over 60 years. It had become noticeably looser at the headstock end. They were most helpful, explaining in advance that if it had been reground before there might not be enough material left to stay within tolerances. All ok, but surely a warning there for buyers. They even set up the saddle for me. Smoother than it's ever been, and along the whole length of course. I'd forgotten what that was like.
bob can you tell me how to put a belt on the the three pulley in the coloumn i see where the morse tapers go in and around the rond bit are three 3 mm hole at 120 degrees is this some sort of locking device ?if so i can blast awat an hope full unscrew it then i can offer in the v belt
Have a look at chapter five - -I think it explains it there.
hi bob this is not a comment ,,more a word of praise.. well done ! i am still on the look out for a mk 3 head and am willing to pay ... but up to a point ! have just bought another centec 2 coloumn metal gears 6 gears in all.. what it is . its that i am in my 80 s and i havent got the strength i used to have . now the reason for two centecs one is for vertical milling and the other is for horizontal.. but i now need a knee and a table. so i might need to buy another centec for spares i have seen one on internet near coventry for auction starting price £250 "no one bid " so if it comes up again this time i will go for it .. well bob hope you can help me .. regards laurence
dear bob..i too have a centec 2 but ..the vertical head isnt built to go up or down . i m thinking to make it go up and down by cutting a slot in the lowest part . its complicated. so do i manage with what ive got or save up m y pennies . i could get one tomorrow ! but i would be paying well over the odds i emquired two years ago . and they wanted £1.000.. i ll keep visitng the scrap yards ... who knows..! regards laurence
I would suggest that you hold out for a decently priced 'S/S' vertical head with the quill, if that's really going to be of use to you. Try negotiating the scrapper's price down, if that's the only one you can find. Centec, I think, envisioned that you would use their 'rapid table raise' lever to imitate the downward quill movement, but as that lever is on the rear of the machine, it's not very convenient. Unless I'm using the Centec as a drill press, I rarely use the quill, and prefer to use my Shelley car jack modification (have you seen that video of mine?) to raise the table in a convenient and measured manner.
Dude awesome you just got to love hellboy
That looks very well done. Great addition with the different type of bullets.
Now please show how to build the rest of the spaceship as well 😀
It's coming, it's coming. These panels are all going into the cockpit, later in the build.
OMG I splashed out ££’s on the same one, plus spare tool holders and new tools, only to find it doesn’t sit on the tool post so that the tool holders seat properly. Therefore, more ££’s to buy an arbor and end mill and bits to take 5-6 mm off the post casting, so that I could use it properly. (Note to self… stop watching another site who recommended these tools)
🙏 Praise to Beachcomber Bob 👍 After my ML7 motor blew up in my face 🥵, I found every time I switched it on, the motor kicked. This wore through the `rubber’ covered 3 core wire to the plug and shorted on the bench. Stripping it down, I took the switch cover off and found wood dust in it, so needed a clean up at the same time. Unfortunately part way through taking it apart … realised I should be taking photos of the disassembly 😱. By then, the I’d taken out the centre pin as I’d seen one of the five Bakelite moulded drum sections had split at the drum contact holes. This was repaired with Milliput, then superglue after it had dried. Alas, like others here, I found springs, drum contacts and clips, all in my tray and no idea how to put them back. With the great help of your video and Mr.LinnsWorkshop I was able to get everything back together … with nothing left over 😎 I want to replace the 5 and 3 core cables, but unsure whether 1.5mm would be suitable
All you need now is a 34 & 33 tooth gear & you can cut metric as well as imperial.........
I wish they'd show this in India..I've seen double the amount on a scooter 🛵😂
Ya just can't get beatniks to take anything seriously.
That looked fun as hell. I'm now sold on overcrowding my ride with fit, feminine and friendly hippy chicks.
I'll keep my car from being overcrowded for the sake of keeping room for smoking.
This really is a public service announcement.
brilliant ! im going to make one...still looking for a mk 111 head for me centec . ive thought of making one by converting mine ... after all is said and done some body had to make the mk 111 didnt they ?basically a posh rack and pinion plus some method of tighening up the coloumn ... nothing ventured,, nothing gained .. and if ,,if ,,if it was a success.. i would be flooded. with...... can you make me one ? ..... dreams ... regards laurence
Ja, architectural, your local gates guy, an overlooked resource.
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Can anyone tell me the dimensions and number of teeth on the external lead screw pinion??
I seem to remember a long time ago someone making a die filer from a sewing machine turned upside down....a bit bulky but I think it did work. With all die filers it is important to have the table at a variable height to even out the wear on the file or you get a file with a bald spot just where you need it to cut and a very necessary feature is to have the table inclinable too............a bit more complicated but you only want to build a machine once.
For the use I get out of it (on thin brass sheet), the files won't wear out for a good while (and I can always make more to fit), and I can't justify the expense of a real die filer. Just my humble take on 'make do and mend.'
hello bob ..been watching your videos with [drooling interest ] i havent got a printer so could you send me one of your riser block labels to afix on my riser block when finished .! ,,i paid £500 for my horizontal centec 2 and had to go all the way to gloucester to get it from derby.. then i wanted a vertical head and found one on e bay £500 .. so far £1000. dismayed slightly ..as it wasnt the quill type [ mk 111 ] but time will tell i have a friend of mine who has several mills ! big lumps just sat there slowly rusting away. what a shame ,,,they are for sale and think i could get one for scrap price . know anybody that wants one ?regards laurence
i enjoyed all the videos on the centec [ same as mine ] but sadly i dont have the quill head .. just an ordinary swivel type head. . i am tempted to convert the head i have into a quill type [. to a round of applause from all and sundry when finished and working ] i mean,, who made them in the first place ? the tackle that we have nowdays is much more advanced than what was available then !iwould dearly like a quill type even if its broken,,, rusted solid..it can be fixed !..a good soak in hot coca cola wont do any harm !. any ideas ? regards laurence
All I can say is patience. The heads do come up from time to time, I was just lucky that mine came up so shortly after I got the basic horizontal base (had to travel a ways to get it mind). No harm in renovating what you have and being 'creative' with it. Visit a few on-line forums for vintage lathes and ask around, as those are the guys who might have an old vertical head just sitting in the back of the garage rusting, or at least point you in the right direction. It's been so long that I've forgotten which sites I visited - perhaps practical machinist or lathes.co.uk (I know they have a ton of interesting Centec data).
Brilliant
i have the exact same machine [ in bits ] this video will help me assemble it to its former glory ..regards laurence
Glad to be of help. I don't have fancy video creating kit, but I wanted to put it out there for folks like me who had never even seen this machine before buying it. If I can do it, I'm sure you'll have an easier time.😁
Excellent video!!! Very good, clear instructions. Thanks for sharing.
Just a quick question ,where do you get the putty coat? Great videos! I have recently purchased an M L 7 R with quick change gearbox, and it needs lots of t l c !!!
Look up 'MOTIP Spray Putty'. Available on Ebay, Amazon, and most big auto spares shops.
@@beachcomberbob3496 thank you so much !!
I have a Centec 2a and converted it from 3 Phase to single phase and the table drive motor works with an added capacitor. See my article in the "Model Engineer's Workshop Magazine". Keep up the good work .
Hi Beachcomer Bob, I have damaged tumbler gear i need to replace please can you advise me how you remove the taper pin in situ from the tumbler gear so you can take out the shaft ?
In my case, the taper pin had been hammered in, so I had to drill it out. But generally, if you examine both ends of the pin and determine which is the smaller diameter, it should tap out easily with a hammer and punch. If you can't make out which end is which, try a few gentle taps at either end. It should become obvious that one of them is moving the pin out.
@@beachcomberbob3496, thank you for your prompt reply but can only see one end of it and wo during if it was a blind hole , I will investigate further. Regards Peter Baker
@@PeterBaker-hp1np Sometimes it can be hard to see the pin if it's flush with it's surroundings, but it isn't a blind hole. Use a drift (parallel punch) of a smaller diameter, if you have one. Like I said, it shouldn't take great blows to move it if you are hitting the correct end. Of course, if some swine has hammered it in to the point of peining over the end, you will have to drill it out like I did. In that case, you do have to get in there at an awkward angle, but it is do-able.
@@beachcomberbob3496 , Good afternoon Bob I managed to source a new transfer gear [2 teeth broken off the original] I had to drill it part way through then it punched out, replaced gear and new 20 tooth gear on layshaft [ 1 broken tooth] and fitted brand new input shaft [splines damaged in 3 places] Thanks with the help off your video it all went back together very well. Many Thanks for Your Help Bob. Regards Peter.
@@PeterBaker-hp1np I was only passing on what little I know. Thanks for the update, and happy machining!
hey up can you help me my mill is just like yours ,,,,but i have what can only be discribed as some sort of gear box its cylindrical in dimension 5" dia x200 length with a lever one end and two pulleys on the same shaft help ! regards laurence
dear bob remember me ? i was asking if you will be making any more risers for the centec .. bob,, what extra height do i need ? i can get as much aluminium as i want and have a nice piece of 75x75x300 but after i cut the "v " slots it will only give me a rise of 50mm i think i need at least three times that ! or perhaps twice ? happen you will give me your height dimensions and i will take it as an example that works ! i am not going down the cast iron track... but the aluminium one ! regards laurence
Much more satisfying to watch than the videos that give every exgausting process detail.
That thing is VERY COOL!!
I think you have had some fun making that
Thanks. I have a full length version showing the build process, on my channel.
And the point is?.......
The point is it's part of the space ship console I'm building for my grandson to play with.
@@beachcomberbob3496 That I get!
You really do make it look easy, beautifully done.
That's one lucky kid. I'd love to have had something that cool when I was a kid.
Bob just Awesome!!! Great job your grandson will love it. Never enough space 😅. Didn’t want to give him your Tesla to play with?
hello remember me ? raise block for my centec mill ! i have changed my mind !,forget the cast iron i want to use aluminium .! and have had a gleg [look] on internet and a 9x4x4 will cost me 40 quid ! cast iron s all well and good but the mess it makes ! ! regards laurence
the thread form on the vice is "butress" most "old" vices have it ... cheers regards laurence
Great! Right from the album cover! My favorite rendition of the Martian fighting machines was from a Classics Illustrated comic book version of H.G. Wells' War of the Worlds back in the 1960's though. I've never seen anyone tackle a 3D model of that version.
Absolutely beautiful. Great build.
Do you take orders? I'd love one.
Funnily enough, I've just started making another one. Do you want to go on the list? My email's on my 'about' page.