Just got this speaker at a 2nd hand store. it didnt power up thought i would take a chance on getting it back to life. didnt know it was a mosfett until i seen you work on it . thanks for your share..
Yep, totally get that. I normally do socket them up! as can be seen in some of my previous vids. However this is a mains rated IC and the standard DIP sockets aren't mains rated (Max. 60v AC usually). Also, as it's probably going to do a lot of heating and cooling (and thus thermal expansion in the socket would come into play in that case) and its only 8 pins socketing wasn't required or, I think, appropriate in this case.
@@standishgeezer How gracious of you to say that :-) Like I say in my videos, I'm not an expert, but I've been taking things apart since I was 2 according to my mum so that helps. Also, I hate working on mains stuff anyway so I always err on the side of caution when dealing with it. its good to get some viewer interaction - I enjoy that, but also your point will still be valid for most other DIP IC replacement, so people will read these comments and learn that, so its all good.
I have the same issue, and i dont have the tools to replace the mosfet, can i convert it to a passive subwoofer? Or can i buy the module online? Thanks for the help
I have the wharfedale dx-2 package, the subwoofer, stopped working, no power on LED, the board is WH-S10E (power), cables, switch and fuse ok to main board, I moved the untit the other day and LED came back on but nothing again now, checked FETs no shorts, and switching chip hasn't blown, no obvious signs of any chips or caps blown, no discolouration either.....could be a dry joint but can't see evicence of what would be a stereotypical dry joint, looking at the output it seems to suggest MUTE, 127v, G and +27V, is this correct, can put it back in situ and test, if you have any pointers, would appreciate the help.
The Equalizor, 1) 17:38 This problem, I think, you may try fix with help a bamboo stick for teeths =) Melt the solder and slide a stick between the legs. Also, I have using sticks for clear holes from solder. A solder does not stick to wood. 2) 23:20 - If you interesting, I may to write about simple selfmade device, which help save (at least will increase the chances. I saw it at our repairmen on TH-cam) mosfets from burn after enablen to AC. 3) I think that it is wrong to connect the power supply to the load after repair. Perhaps you should first measure the voltage on the connectors? I'm not specialist, but I like to watch repairmens in youtube and they don't connect while measure the voltage. p.s. sorry for my bad English. Hello from Russia)
I’d been watching rentaghost recently and yeah that jump cut made me think straight away of that sound effect. So I ripped it off of a video file I had and edited it into the video. So glad someone noticed :) it always makes me smile when I play that that back.
djsherz It’s great that this is technical video, and my little , almost throwaway gag got noticed. Although you’re the first person to comment on Rentaghost, which probably means that my viewers are younger than me and you....
Evening Sir , don’t suppose you other a repair service for this unit ? My daughter has one that doesn’t power up . Supply in is good and internal fuse ok . That’s about my limit lol .
No sorry, well, unless you’re very close to me in the m25 j9 area but if you have a local to repair type shop they’ll be able to fix it for you I would imagine.
Hi! May I ask whether this is a sealed or a bass reflex box? Their website mentions sealed on the description and “vented” on the table with the specs.And since I couldn’t find a picture of the bottom of the subwoofer, I’m not sure if it’s an open or a sealed box. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I was hoping this would help me, however I had a Wharfedale DX-2 sub that has died. Checking the PSU there is no power output but it hasn't popped the fuse and the two mosfets you changed aren't shorted. I'm at a loss to what is wrong with it.
Have you checked the MOSFETS to see if maybe they're open circuit? That would be unusual but not unheard of. Those cheap eBay transistor testers are perfect for testing MOSFETs.
Hi The Equalizor. My WH-D8's power supply just died - I've changed both MOSFET's but there is also a fried resistor of which I can't read the parameters. Do you happen to have a circuit diagram of WH-D8's power supply module? Thanks a lot.
Hi, can anyone please provide me with the component values of the following which got charred- resistors R1, R2, R3, capacitor-C3 and diode-D11 on the power supply board. I really appreciate any assistance.
Well..from what I’ve read, the body diode is an intrinsic part of most mosfets so I guess it doesn’t matter which one you use, but I’n not an expert. But what I can say is that the subwoofer is still working to this day.
It doesn't matter because the circuit on the PCB has an external bootstrap diode from VCC to VB pin anyway. So whichever flavour of IR2153 you used (with internal bootstrap diode or not) it would work anyway.
Hello mate, I have the same sub but it won't turn on anymore. I watched your video and checked the fuse, MOSFETs, every resistor and capacitor and I still can't find the problem. Any advise/hint would be much appreciated!
I think my advice would be to grab the schematic (pretty sure I found it easily through google) and just have a look at the primary side of the circuit. Follow the mains through up till the SMPS chip. Do you have mains up until that chip?
@@the_equalizor Thank you so much for your advice. When phase and ground cable connects with the SMPS board there is right after the phase board connector a thermistor which looks like to be blown (failed diod test). Looks like too much current destoyed it. Will a simple fix solve it or is this part of a bigger problem?. There is no current arriving at the SMPS chip. I haven't found the schematics online ;-(
@@Black_Lotus1337 The thermistor will be an ntc for current inrush protection. Can you send me a good quality pic of the power supply section of the board please as I don’t have access to that subwoofer any longer. Send to robscott@mrhangman.co.uk please.
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Just got this speaker at a 2nd hand store. it didnt power up thought i would take a chance on getting it back to life. didnt know it was a mosfett until i seen you work on it . thanks for your share..
thanks for the video - some knowledge with boards and components, so I will attempt to repair mine.
Glad you got there. When replacing ics, I take the opportunity to socket them as it makes future replacement so much easier.
Yep, totally get that. I normally do socket them up! as can be seen in some of my previous vids.
However this is a mains rated IC and the standard DIP sockets aren't mains rated (Max. 60v AC usually). Also, as it's probably going to do a lot of heating and cooling (and thus thermal expansion in the socket would come into play in that case) and its only 8 pins socketing wasn't required or, I think, appropriate in this case.
@@the_equalizor That's a fair point....you clearly were more on the ball than me here :-)
@@standishgeezer How gracious of you to say that :-) Like I say in my videos, I'm not an expert, but I've been taking things apart since I was 2 according to my mum so that helps. Also, I hate working on mains stuff anyway so I always err on the side of caution when dealing with it. its good to get some viewer interaction - I enjoy that, but also your point will still be valid for most other DIP IC replacement, so people will read these comments and learn that, so its all good.
Great video had same problem with my sub 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Brilliant video
I have the same issue, and i dont have the tools to replace the mosfet, can i convert it to a passive subwoofer? Or can i buy the module online? Thanks for the help
I have the wharfedale dx-2 package, the subwoofer, stopped working, no power on LED, the board is WH-S10E (power), cables, switch and fuse ok to main board, I moved the untit the other day and LED came back on but nothing again now, checked FETs no shorts, and switching chip hasn't blown, no obvious signs of any chips or caps blown, no discolouration either.....could be a dry joint but can't see evicence of what would be a stereotypical dry joint, looking at the output it seems to suggest MUTE, 127v, G and +27V, is this correct, can put it back in situ and test, if you have any pointers, would appreciate the help.
Any chance you can link the replacement parts used please got the exact same problem need the mosfects and the controller chip
The Equalizor,
1) 17:38 This problem, I think, you may try fix with help a bamboo stick for teeths =) Melt the solder and slide a stick between the legs. Also, I have using sticks for clear holes from solder. A solder does not stick to wood.
2) 23:20 - If you interesting, I may to write about simple selfmade device, which help save (at least will increase the chances. I saw it at our repairmen on TH-cam) mosfets from burn after enablen to AC.
3) I think that it is wrong to connect the power supply to the load after repair. Perhaps you should first measure the voltage on the connectors? I'm not specialist, but I like to watch repairmens in youtube and they don't connect while measure the voltage.
p.s. sorry for my bad English. Hello from Russia)
Excellent tutorial mate. Thank you . Just a suggestion , can you list the components you use please??
IR2153 SELF-OSCILLATING HALF-BRIDGE DRIVER
2 x IRF740 Power MOSFET
@@iikkakonola Are the 4 mosfets the same?
Your sound effect at 28.30 brought back memories of Rentaghost! :)
I’d been watching rentaghost recently and yeah that jump cut made me think straight away of that sound effect. So I ripped it off of a video file I had and edited it into the video. So glad someone noticed :) it always makes me smile when I play that that back.
@@the_equalizor Today's earworm is the Rentaghost theme tune, brought to you by The Equalizor - thanks for that... :D
djsherz it’s a very catchy song, composed and sung by Michael Staniforth who died far too young. I think that gives it a little something extra too.
@@the_equalizor Can't argue with that!
djsherz It’s great that this is technical video, and my little , almost throwaway gag got noticed. Although you’re the first person to comment on Rentaghost, which probably means that my viewers are younger than me and you....
Evening Sir , don’t suppose you other a repair service for this unit ? My daughter has one that doesn’t power up . Supply in is good and internal fuse ok . That’s about my limit lol .
No sorry, well, unless you’re very close to me in the m25 j9 area but if you have a local to repair type shop they’ll be able to fix it for you I would imagine.
Hello, do you remember which TDA model you use to amplify?
Hi! May I ask whether this is a sealed or a bass reflex box? Their website mentions sealed on the description and “vented” on the table with the specs.And since I couldn’t find a picture of the bottom of the subwoofer, I’m not sure if it’s an open or a sealed box. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I was hoping this would help me, however I had a Wharfedale DX-2 sub that has died. Checking the PSU there is no power output but it hasn't popped the fuse and the two mosfets you changed aren't shorted.
I'm at a loss to what is wrong with it.
Have you checked the MOSFETS to see if maybe they're open circuit? That would be unusual but not unheard of. Those cheap eBay transistor testers are perfect for testing MOSFETs.
Hi The Equalizor. My WH-D8's power supply just died - I've changed both MOSFET's but there is also a fried resistor of which I can't read the parameters. Do you happen to have a circuit diagram of WH-D8's power supply module? Thanks a lot.
Hi, can anyone please provide me with the component values of the following which got charred- resistors R1, R2, R3, capacitor-C3 and diode-D11 on the power supply board. I really appreciate any assistance.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you. I noticed that you swapped the ir2153D (with internal diode) for an IR2153. Are they totally compatible?
Well..from what I’ve read, the body diode is an intrinsic part of most mosfets so I guess it doesn’t matter which one you use, but I’n not an expert. But what I can say is that the subwoofer is still working to this day.
@@the_equalizor Good to know! Thank you
It doesn't matter because the circuit on the PCB has an external bootstrap diode from VCC to VB pin anyway. So whichever flavour of IR2153 you used (with internal bootstrap diode or not) it would work anyway.
Hello mate, I have the same sub but it won't turn on anymore. I watched your video and checked the fuse, MOSFETs, every resistor and capacitor and I still can't find the problem. Any advise/hint would be much appreciated!
I think my advice would be to grab the schematic (pretty sure I found it easily through google) and just have a look at the primary side of the circuit. Follow the mains through up till the SMPS chip. Do you have mains up until that chip?
@@the_equalizor Thank you so much for your advice. When phase and ground cable connects with the SMPS board there is right after the phase board connector a thermistor which looks like to be blown (failed diod test). Looks like too much current destoyed it. Will a simple fix solve it or is this part of a bigger problem?. There is no current arriving at the SMPS chip. I haven't found the schematics online ;-(
@@Black_Lotus1337 The thermistor will be an ntc for current inrush protection. Can you send me a good quality pic of the power supply section of the board please as I don’t have access to that subwoofer any longer. Send to robscott@mrhangman.co.uk please.
Hi may I ask what the original problem was?
It kept blowing mains fuses.
Thank you I am only wondering as I have a subwoofer where it has intermittent power.
Mmm interesting. If it has anti-thump could it be an issue in the circuitry there maybe?
@@the_equalizor Ifs its the 1.6a fuse that keeps blowing what is likely to be the issue?