You just saved my bacon. Had same issues with finding a schematic and was pleased to follow along and triple check my issues. Exact same issue, zener open and transistor exploded.
Respect for the video!!!!!! My subwoofer died suddenly and the issue was with the same power integrator - TOP261YN, but it was burn out so heavely that you can' read the name at all. Thanks to you video I did know what to order. Changed it for around 2 GBP total and now back live!!!! 🙌🙌🙌
mate, thanks for this video. my sub did the same thing, replaced the first component and found it also didn't work. turns out we had the same fault! so again thanks for making this video.
This is great. I don't know how to diagnose things, but it looks like I have the same problem, exploded switcher. Not sure about the zener, I get 2.3 ohm, so for good measure I'll order that as well. Thank you for your share!
Thanks for sharing mate I have the exact same board amp and problem in my mission sub, I replaced the top261yn and still no power. I'll definately be trying new zener diode now to.. thanks!!
well done, thanks for sharing! I have a Power Cube 10A, also has the similar problem - cannot get switched on, will try to have a look too see if the cause is similar. Poor quality :(
Thank you, and you're welcome. I'm very happy to be able to help anyone with this info, especially based on other comments it seems to be a pretty common failure! Good luck with your repair!
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes Just opened the PC10A for a look, and realised the PCB inside is different to yours. Managed to figure out that there are 2 sets of T3.15A 250V fuses blown. Perhaps this is the cause for not power on. Will look for replacing fuses and try it out. But do you have any idea on why the fuses were broken? Thanks/
Interesting... common failure state, perhaps? I wonder whether it's some kind of failure cascade, or if the zener "sacrifices" to save the remainder of the circuit. It looks like both Mission and Wharfedale are owned by IAG, so makes sense that they'd share components, too.
Hello. I have a problem. I dismantled my same subwoofer and because one self-tapping screw rattled. I disconnected the wire that comes from the speaker and I did not look into which connector it was inserted. There are 2 of them - CON2 and CON6. Please tell me which one of them
Hey! I can't get back into my sub atm to check directly, but I went over my video and photos and I'm *pretty* sure that both CON2 and CON6 are wired together. You can see the two connectors on the backside of the board at 5:00 right at the bottom in the middle, and the traces go directly between both connectors in parallel - I don't think it matters which connector you use, but no guarantees! Sorry!
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes Thank you. I connected to both and both work fine. I think it's resistance. I measured the speaker with a multimeter, it showed 07.0 (8om I think). I assumed that CON6 would be closer to this and stuck it there. I played all evening and it worked. so far nothing is broken
You could, but I'd be wary as the higher current could cause something else to be damaged before the fuse would blow and do its protecting. If you're already blowing a 3.15A fuse, something else is dangerously shorting out and you'd need to rectify that first.
Run the video at 0.5 speed :) Never-the-less do be mindful of folks whose English isn't their 1st or 2nd language:- more folks will watch and learn if you speak slower and clearly.
You just saved my bacon. Had same issues with finding a schematic and was pleased to follow along and triple check my issues.
Exact same issue, zener open and transistor exploded.
Respect for the video!!!!!! My subwoofer died suddenly and the issue was with the same power integrator - TOP261YN, but it was burn out so heavely that you can' read the name at all. Thanks to you video I did know what to order. Changed it for around 2 GBP total and now back live!!!!
🙌🙌🙌
Ah very cool, it seems like a very common fault unfortunately! Happy to help :D
Thanks for sharing your experience it helped me to find out the part number blown in my case
No problem! Very happy to have helped :)
mate, thanks for this video. my sub did the same thing, replaced the first component and found it also didn't work. turns out we had the same fault! so again thanks for making this video.
Ah that's fantastic to hear, definitely sounds like a common failure state. Very happy to have been able to help!
This is great. I don't know how to diagnose things, but it looks like I have the same problem, exploded switcher. Not sure about the zener, I get 2.3 ohm, so for good measure I'll order that as well. Thank you for your share!
The more comments I get on this, the more it seems like a common fault! I'm very happy to be able to help others repair rather than discard :-)
Thanks for sharing mate I have the exact same board amp and problem in my mission sub, I replaced the top261yn and still no power. I'll definately be trying new zener diode now to.. thanks!!
Happy to help! Good luck :)
Nice repair mate.. I know who i'll be bringing busted bits too lol.
Thanks! Any time :D
well done, thanks for sharing! I have a Power Cube 10A, also has the similar problem - cannot get switched on, will try to have a look too see if the cause is similar. Poor quality :(
Thank you, and you're welcome. I'm very happy to be able to help anyone with this info, especially based on other comments it seems to be a pretty common failure! Good luck with your repair!
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes Just opened the PC10A for a look, and realised the PCB inside is different to yours. Managed to figure out that there are 2 sets of T3.15A 250V fuses blown. Perhaps this is the cause for not power on. Will look for replacing fuses and try it out. But do you have any idea on why the fuses were broken? Thanks/
Just brought a busted mission sub that uses the same board, exact same fried chip, pre ordered new zenner just in case.
Well there's a surprise it's the exact same issue.
Interesting... common failure state, perhaps? I wonder whether it's some kind of failure cascade, or if the zener "sacrifices" to save the remainder of the circuit. It looks like both Mission and Wharfedale are owned by IAG, so makes sense that they'd share components, too.
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes maybe the chip fails and takes the zener with it
Yet another electronic components suicide pact!
Hello. I have a problem. I dismantled my same subwoofer and because one self-tapping screw rattled. I disconnected the wire that comes from the speaker and I did not look into which connector it was inserted. There are 2 of them - CON2 and CON6. Please tell me which one of them
Hey! I can't get back into my sub atm to check directly, but I went over my video and photos and I'm *pretty* sure that both CON2 and CON6 are wired together. You can see the two connectors on the backside of the board at 5:00 right at the bottom in the middle, and the traces go directly between both connectors in parallel - I don't think it matters which connector you use, but no guarantees! Sorry!
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes Thank you. I connected to both and both work fine. I think it's resistance. I measured the speaker with a multimeter, it showed 07.0 (8om I think). I assumed that CON6 would be closer to this and stuck it there. I played all evening and it worked. so far nothing is broken
Can I replace the blown T3.15A 250V fuses with F3.50A 250V fuses?
You could, but I'd be wary as the higher current could cause something else to be damaged before the fuse would blow and do its protecting. If you're already blowing a 3.15A fuse, something else is dangerously shorting out and you'd need to rectify that first.
Plz speak slow then i can understand
Run the video at 0.5 speed :) Never-the-less do be mindful of folks whose English isn't their 1st or 2nd language:- more folks will watch and learn if you speak slower and clearly.