Hobby Cheating 261 - How to Make Sewer Bases
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my method for creating and painting sewer bases. These are perfect for armies like Skaven or anyone else who might be hiding beneath the layers of civilization. Hope you enjoy!
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Honestly you’ve given me the inspiration to create what is going on in my imagination. You owe the world that curse Vince!
Besides being a fantastic, classic, timeless video with a TON of great tips, my favorite takeaway is that even Vince, the guru, gets things stuck to his fingers with superglue. I needed that validation! 😅
The highest caliber artist with the most knowledge, most extensive in-depth well said tutorials on TH-cam. Don’t get me wrong there are so many absolutely phenomenal you tubers that will take youre painting to the next levels and beyond but Vince you are truly a gift to the miniature world!
Thank you, that is wonderful to hear and I'm always happy to help. :)
A tip for people trying this. Whatever pour you use, leave it drying in a dust free environment. You don't want random dust particle in your pour that you can't get out after it becomes solid. Especially not if your trying to create any type of clear water.
Excellent tip. :)
Hello person from 3 years ago! To add to this tip. Get yourself a small bin. Put it over the pour while it drys. Store bin upside-down, and it will always be dust free
The liquid basing here gave me a bit of a weird idea: What would water effects look like poured over a mirror chrome base? Say you coated the water sections with a thick coat of Motolow Liquid Chrime, then poured a thin layer of resin on top of it? Could you create a mirror-still lake? If the water is tinted, maybe you could create an illusion of depth that extends beyond the bottom of the base? It sounds like it could be quite interesting for terrain at the very least.
This is an extremely awesome idea I had never contemplated. I will give it a try and we'll see if we have a future tutorial. :)
Concept reminds me of the pools of the liquid metal terminator, or the “great link” from Star Trek ds9.
Oh my god, Vince. The silica-gel is such a great idea. Everyone has it and it actually performs better than the retail options. Chef's kiss.
Yep, I love them for this purpose. Side note, you can also use them on terrain to just make weird align flowers for alien bases, future video there. :)
@@VinceVenturella If you've ever seen the Keanu gif where he blows you double kisses, I'm doing that right now. And now I just need to hunt down some bags of silica....
The bubbles made of these tiny beads is a genious idea! Thank you for the inspiration!
You are so welcome!
Finally a good tutorial for how to use DAS and a roller pin fo your bases, I´ve been racking my brain for a good way to decorate all my stormcast bases, this seems to be both easy cheap and beautiful! Thank you Mr. Venturella for an excellent video.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! This is probably the best sewer terrain tutorial I've seen. Thank you for the blue Tak tip, I have a ton of it and never thought of using it as a container for resin.
Glad it helped!
It cannot be a true hobby project without gluing your fingers to something unintentionally.
Absolutely. ;)
This was a lot simpler and streamlined than i thought it was going to be. Suppose it'd have to be for a massed Army Project.
The issue i'm having is the time/ effort vs outcome, for all my Army projects. Videos like this are a godsend. Bless you.
Excellent, always happy to help (and yes, when you have 300 to make, simplicity is king).
One additional tip for getting rid of bubbles is to use a hairdryer really quick. The bubbles will pop right away. But you have to be really careful. Great tutorial as always!
Great tip!
If you want to get rid of the bubbles in resin use heat either a heat gun or a mini cooks blow torch. It won’t damage anything as you literally move it over the resin for a split second
There were some card tiles in white dwarf many moons ago for warhammer quest, I think, that fascinated me as a wee lad. This reminds me strongly of those. Fantastic results, Vince. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Shamelessly stealing these ideas and claiming credit for them -- in true Skaven fashion!
Excellent work man, just love em!
Much appreciated! :)
Looks great! Also larger bases like this are great for lowering the stuff in your bits box. Take some weapons either complete ones or cut the possible hands holding it to put broken weapons on the ground. Same idea for bits of armor from spare arms or torsos, get creative with some trash in the sewer.
Wanted to sleep. Glad i watch till the end. Great info. Great use for brushes plastic covers!
That DAS is gonna be my new go-to for sculpting bases.
Yeah, it's a real life saver for big basing projects. :)
Vince, I want to pass along a cheap replacement for the blu-tac. For $4.55 you can get a 40foot roll of 1/4" x3/16" Butyl Rubber Sealant Tape at Home Depot. As per the recommendation of a fellow TH-camr Marco Frisoni he has it in black I only found it in gray here at HD. Marco states it is much stronger, too.
Awesome, I will have to check that out.
Best moss I've used is that flock mixed with the realistic water
That's a great call for sure.
Man I love your basing videos! Now I gotta figure out something to paint in the sewers haha! And thanks for the heads up on Michigan you soldier - much better option for rollers than shipping overseas (especially right now)
Yep, MTS is great for basically everything you would need. :)
Dude! Just wonderful!
Glad you enjoyed. :)
the great thing about this is that the same principles apply to making Nurgle bases also I learnt that swamp bubbles are the enemy and how to make intentional swamp bubbles.
Yep, lots of crossover here to other base types. :)
Thank Vince. I'm planning on using elements that you showed off here in my bases for my Death Guard I have from the 8th edition starter box. I'm planning on doing the bases as a toxic swamp concept.
This should be perfect for that sort thing, always happy to help. :)
Brilliant, will work great with death guard I've had planned.
Awesome, always happy to help. :)
Very cool! That green water came out really nice!
Thanks 👍
man! Another great video! The best basing video in all youtube. Thank u for bringing that
Glad you liked it! :)
Instead of an island I would have done a drainage grate in the middle of the channel. It would allow water into deeper parts of the sewer when the water gets too high to prevent the sewer from flooding too badly.
Absolutely, could have done that (in fact, one of my other bases has exactly that, I made 13 bases of this size), so there was lots of variance. :)
@@VinceVenturella you go vince!
Awesome utilization of silica beads. Nice one.
Thanks a lot 😊
Beautiful stuff! I've been experimenting with small amounts of Das clay of late. If you really want to get the most out of it, the Terrain tutor has a great video on it. In general, terrain projects, are really good for experimenting with techniques you can bring back to your bases.
Totally agree, and DAS really made this a much more doable project. :)
@@VinceVenturella Too bad I have yet to find a good supplier for it in Austria.
Fantastic job again! 👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers! :)
Since you mentioned it, a moss video would be great. I've been working on some jungle bases and terrain and I'm running out of ideas to diversify the foliage
It's on the list. :)
Thanks for that. I’ve been trying to use these rollers for a while now, and the putty usually comes off. The pressing and then moistening is a great tip. I know, the video had plenty more to offer, but it’s the little things... 😀
That's why I always try to go into detail, in my estimation it's actually the little things like that which make a big difference. :)
This was a GREAT how-to, Vince! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
23:00 I love moss! Have been experimenting with making my own mixtures using supplies from the model train world. Would love a HC video on just moss in the future.
It's on my list actually. :)
Big Bad Base Daddy is back. I'm going to try out some 3D printer rollers and see how they compare to some GSW ones I picked up.
Awesome, I'll be interested to hear how it goes. :)
Me too. 12 hours+ to print though! (0.05 - 0.10mm FDM)
As always, a pleasure to watch.
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
As someone who's glued about 1800+ bricks, they only stick to your fingers lol. Great tutorial Vince, thanks.
It's inevitable. :)
You can lay down parchment paper or plasticard if you don't feel like ruining a cutting mat
I have some old cutting mats specifically for the purpose of being ruined, they are where I do my super messy work. :) - But yes, you are correct, a big thick piece of plasicard is great (as is by the way cheap tile pieces from the hardware store).
Non-sequitor comment, but figured you would find it relevant. (and i don't do twitter to send you random tweets)
1) Mega gargant kit - What $190?
2) Am I the only one scared that this new "double gargant" box, with "2" aleguzzlers/maneaters, is actualy them being cheap, and reducing what they ship us? The current kit is 2 sprues, one with all you need to build 1 body, and 1 with all the hand/head/bits options to customizes. I could see GW selling a kit with 2 of the first, and 1 of the second. You can build 2 gargants, just they can't be the same.
Also, whats with 2 per box other wise? They specifically show the need/use for 3, as battleline, but not 2 or 4. (I already have 2 so have LOTS of extra bits, so could maybe just trade for the BODY sprue from someone)
1) $195 actually and yes, it's too high.
2) All of the sprues will be in there I am sure, I'm not worried about that. We do now have a hot dogs, hot dog bun situation.
Excellent! I made sure to share it in the hobby group! you should share your videos there too!
Awesome, thank you, I will make sure to share them in the future. :)
So cool! Been looking for these rollers but I can’t ever find them in Toronto hobby stores
Michigan Toy Soldier is likely a good option.
Phenomenal work Vince, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
These basing videos are awesome. It would be even better to see a model on there with the pictures at the end
In this case, I didn't base them until after, but I often do try to include a model. :)
Beautiful base. The DAS section was really useful. I would love to see a video going over your method for using green stuff vs. Das vs. Milliput Superfine White. I've used greenstuff and the Milliput and I've found I love the sharpness of the detail on the Milliput but it is harder to work with in basing. It would be nice to get some tips.
I'll add it to the list.
You are a very good Inspiration to me 😄 thank you 😁
I'm so glad! :) Always happy to help.
Awesome video! Thanks Vince!
You bet! :)
Have you tried Soilworks Spring Soil basing paste? A glob of it dried on my painting desk and I thought I had brought in dirt from outside. Great video.
I have not, I'll have to give it a try. :)
How would you make a stream of green goo look like it is gushing out of the raised pipe? Roll a sausage of green stuff/putty and paint it? Use thick fishing wire and thicken it with superglue to keep some transparency and then paint it maintaining some sort of transparancy?
So there are several different methods, I am going to do a whole video around this, but here is a simple method. Take a small plastic string (fishing line, the little plastic thing from a tag from your shirt, whatever) and drip a couple of drops of super glue along it until it forms a solid "bubble" at one end. THen let that dry, apply a few drops of gloss varnish over it, building up the thickness and the bubble. Then when that's all dry, just paint it with some ink of the approrpaite color and you're all set.
Wow this is so cool!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Nice job!! I can’t wait to try this!
Excellent, glad you enjoy it. :)
Love it. Great work.
What do you add in the droplet bottle after glue something? Sorry I watched twice and still cannot figure it out. Thanks.
Thanks, it's accelerant. It makes the super glue dry instantly.
Awesome video, as always! Would love to see a mossy tutorial!
Yeah, I am going to add that to the list.
So I've seen Luke Aps and Macro to add PVA glue into the DAS mix, that was so messy for me and I've glad DAS works pretty well by itself!
Yeah, I've found no need to mix anything in. Worked great for basically 300+ bases. :)
@@VinceVenturella thanks for saving my insanity 😅
great video, as always.
PS: consider this my RSVP to that moss/algae video.
I've added it to the list. :)
Vince, might not compare with your doss Clay in terms of cheapness, but have you ever experimented with Aves Apoxie Sculpt? Two part Epoxy clay, comparable to greenstuff and Milliput in terms of performance, but much cheaper and made in the US.
Haven't tried it before, but I will check it out.
Great stuff as is the norm with you my friend 👍
Thank you kindly :)
This is awesome, subbed.
Thanks for the sub! Glad to have you along on the hobby journey and always happy to help. :)
Thank you for this video Vincent, really helpful. Quick question: when I use realistic water in similar situations, the edges (where the resin touches the side, in your case the blue tack) end up raised instead of a flat surface (or the middle shrinks, not sure). Any idea how to avoid that?
Yep, it's always going to happen unless you go to something that has very little shrinkage, like Magic Water, which even that can have it happen. What I do is once it's completely dry, I take a VERY sharp and new exacto and carefully slice that raised stuff off. If you have a slight area of not clear, just run over it with a coat of gloss varnish and it will fill up the slices and turn clear.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, I will try the gloss varnish!
@@edsontirelli1900 Alternatively you can use a layer of what you used as resin pour over the edge that you cut off to clear it up
I just started messing with resin for my IDK bases, it’s definitely challenging using GW bases with the greenstuff world silicon molds I’m finding out.
Yep, that shape just doesn't work, that slight beveled edge is a killer.
Vince Venturella where are you getting the MDF bases from? I know greenstuff world has them, but shipping takes a while.
@@withteethfilmssp7794 Just ebay in bulk. :)
Vince Venturella gotcha, thanks
Very informative as always.
Glad it was helpful!
Looking nice! And fun to make indeed. :-)
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Thank you, as I'm pretty bad at basing I found this one very interesting. Have you made some for forest and/or jungle base?
Yep, I've done jungle as well - th-cam.com/video/0OgotJrDbTw/w-d-xo.html
@@VinceVenturella Yeah!!!!!!!!
That's a really useful video, the little grey cells are stimulated. Thanks Vince. Oh did you weather the bases post pour? They looked 'dustier'.
Yep, there was a little bit of post work done there (also, they just sat out and gathered some dust for a few days, with three long haired dogs in my office all day, it's an endless battle. :) ) - Also, love the little grey cells comment, I see you are a fan of Poirot as well.
Honest to god, I'm fairly sure it's an axiom of the crafter that one does not simply super glue a thing without getting that crap all over one's fingers. I don't think I've ever superglued a thing without also supergluing myself to said thing.
Every single time. :)
Hi Vince, Loved the tutorial. I am making up some Anvilgard bases and want to simulate the smoky mist kinda effect around the miniatures legs. I guess kind of like you have with this green glow. Is that how you would approach it, as an OSL?
I think that would be the only option, unless you want to try to actually model it with something like pulled apart cotton balls, but that generally looks fairly bad honestly. :)
@@VinceVenturella I agree, it’s something I’ve been thinking about for a while as it’s a feature of so much of the cover art to have atmospheric dust or mist towards the bottom of a subject.
Would you consider sharing some photos of all your bases? I have about 250 to make in the same scheme and would love to steal some ideas ;)
Sure, they all have models on them now, but I shared out everything on twitter a little while ago, so you shoudl see them all there. If you need some, shoot me an email and I can send you some pictures.
300 frigging bases! Do you sleep Vince? I know that you have a life outside the hobby, what is your secret? I will not use that for my army but very nice video as ever.
The key is to have very little life outside the hobby, that makes everything easier. ;)
I can smell it through my screen 🤢 Amazing work, Vince!!
Thank you, these were fun for sure. :)
Thx for the tutorial, helped a lot. One question, when i peel of my blue-tak it gets stuck on the water, is there any way to avoid it?
It's tough, but it sounds like it didn't completely cure. You may want to give it a little longer, perhaps a full cure can reduce the amount sticking, give it an extra day or so.
@@VinceVenturella will try it, thank you
Amazing video.. so much to learn here... thank you for this!
Quick question: if you want to use the water effect on something that is not leveled, how will it look? Will most of it gather in the lower part and doesn't stay on the upper part?
It will run down and fill the lower areas, it can be a cool effect if you are going for like tide pools or something.
@@VinceVenturella oh thank you so much for taking the time to reply me!
I will look at it and make some experimentations.. maybe try with successive layers.. anyway your video really inspired me to give it a try!
Thx for the amazing content you’re putting out week after week!
I was ready to throw my 'realistic water' away, as last time I used it I did not get the results I wanted... (quite possibly due to my lack of knowledge) Anyway, great video. Great advices! Thank you for doing this.
My question is:
Will you varnish your bases once models are mounted and done?
For some reason, that last time I used realistic water, I used Vallejo Satin varnish from spray can and it.. Messed up water so bad.
So the answer is I varnish everything before the realistic water. I don't varnish after the realistic water. It will do exactly what you said, it will generally mess things up (outside of the very specifc case of using gloss varnish to correct scratches in clear epoxy)
@@VinceVenturella , thanks Vince!
Oh man I LOVE this video one question though what kind or brand of UV resin is that? Most I find on Amazon are for nails, does that work??
You want the ones for costume jewelry - www.amazon.com/Bsrezn-Crystal-Premixed-Transparent-Activated/dp/B0B5GDWJPV/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=uv+resin&qid=1688652480&sprefix=UV+resin%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-5
@@VinceVenturella you’re amazing thank you! Sorry I know this is an older video
Great video. Does the sticky tack just peel away after it’s cured or do you have to cut it?
Yep, basically just peels away without issue if it's completely dry. Once in a while, you will have a little sticky area, you just roll up a ball of the blue tack and press it against it and it will pull it right off.
Hi Vince, totally unrelated question to this video, but I was wondering what stuff you use to stick your mini's on some kind of holder. With stuff i mean the grey stuff, where you stick your mini's in. I hope you get what I mean!
I do understand, I buy bulk Bostik Blu Tack from Amazon or the dollar store.
@@VinceVenturella thanks!
If that's sewage I don't want to know what the town's been eating. Looks good though.
I assume it's mixed with some standard "chaos taint" ;)
Which type of bricks did you get at Michigan Toy Soldier?
It was the small scale pegasus bricks, I really like them.
Hello Vince! I had a general question for you! I have been working in the mini sculpting biz for 10 years ( you have even worked on some of my sculpts!) but I have been working digitally 100% of that time and Digital sculpting has an issue of having too fine of details. I'm your opinion what is some general sculpting details you think could be done better for ease painting. Thanks and have a great day!
That's a complicated question (which figs btw, I am fascinated). In general, my advice would be something simple like, figures should be generally more open. Avoid too much "dangley stuff" - one of the things that drives me crazy is too much extra chachkis on a figure. I like a clean straighforward sculpt, basically, if it could be described as detail for detail sake, I am against it (like does the figure work without it, is it still readable and clear as what it is? - If yes, cut it. same as writing).
Hope any of that helps and thanks for sculpting figs I liked. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the insight! It will help a lot. I'm always looking to improve and never really thought about asking painters! I forget what figures you painted on that I have done, only one that comes to mind is the Painting female faces. Ive been with Kingdom Death forever so I'm tickled pink when I see ultra pros like yourself painting on work Ive done! Id love to see more painted by you! Thanks again and have a great day!
Some nice tips in here as always - such as using blue tac, will have to copy that one! 😀
Been thinking of making a very similar style base for my war hydra - but ancient ruins by a dark sea instead of sewers. Do you have any advice on what colors to mix into the water effect? Thinking dark sea blue and some dark green.
I think you are dead on with those colors. You have options though, Payne's Grey ink, Turquoise, any of those types of colors would work. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for the time to reply. Turqoise seems like a good idea!
hey vince once again great video man, quick question: what do you use to prevent de resin from dripping all over the place ? blue tack? thanks
Yep, fresh blue tack in strips tightly pressed around the edge.
Hey - for the resin pour and using blu tac to make the dam, do you have any issues with the resin clouding up where it touches the blu tac? I just tried it with white tac (identical stuff other than the colour, as far as I can tell) and it's left a cloudy mark on the resin around the edge. It looks great from above, but it means that the sides aren't as transparent as I'd like. Any ideas?
Never run into the issue (but I am often making colored versions), that being said, there could besome difference.
looking great! What was the 'puddle's' product that you have used in the past? I am almost positive it was literally just called puddles.
You are correct, it's called Puddles from AK INteractive.
Hey Vince is there a good way to recreate ocean waves for a basing scheme?
Sure, you can do a little water effects over resin pour and build it up. I realized I've never done a video on this, and that is a shame, I need to do that. But yes, ther eare products that are like a paste you can build up and clear as they dry. THen you can tint with some appropriate colors.
Great insightful video! Love your basing tutorials.
I have a dumb question. When I use Daler Rowney FW Ink White through an airbrush, thinned with water/flow improver/airbrush thinner/water+FI or AT it's application is fine. However, when I later paint over it, pigment reactivates, causing me to move it, sometimes messing up painting process. I've started varnishing my models after zenithal because of this. I'm using 20-30 PSI, with ink thinned 1:1 or 1:2. Is there any way to avoid this issue?
Yes, this can happen sometime where ink can reactivate. Easy solution - before you go over the top, just give it a quick layer of some kind of varnish, and that will lock everything in.
How come you don't use the 2-part resin? Is this not deep enough for it to be worthwhile?
Also, I have had miserable luck with the Vallejo Stillwater. Is the Woodland's Scenics Realistic Water a better one-part water effect product?
Yeah, in general, it's not deep enough to need to mess with a 2-part, though I will often use that for a deeper pour.
@@VinceVenturella Is Woodlands Scenics Realistic Water better than Vallejo Stillwater?
@@Jackaljkljkl I have found it more dependable yes.
DROOOLLL!
Glad it was helpful. :)
Vince do you get alot of shrinkage with that water effect stuff? I've been having a bear of a time with filling hollow bases with it.
It varies by product, if you want the most minimal shrinkage, Magic Water is the best one I've found, the 2-parters will always do better.
@@VinceVenturella Gratzy. Have you ever thinned the woodland scenics to make it flow better?
@@vs5031 I don't know of any way to thin it and maintain it's properties.
@@VinceVenturella Well, tried plain ol water, we shall see...
When you are making batch bases like this, do you make the bases so they can sort of accept any mini from your army, or do you try to tailor the base a bit to the model that's going on it?
Yeah, in general, I just make them generically, there is so many bases - it would be basically impossible to keep them all straight.
Great video as always.
I have one unrelated question: I am about to paint my rubric marines (standard blue/turquoise) and I don't know what to use as shadow Color. Do you have a suggestion?
I use Payne's Grey Daler Rowney FW ink for shadows on them.
@@VinceVenturella Great, thank you. I love the fw inks. I bought a few of them after watching your review, and paynes grey is used in almost every project.
@@VinceVenturella sorry for the late follow up question: Would you do the gold with an airbrush and the blue with a normal brush or reverse?
@@ValentinBystrich blue with airbrush, brush the metals
did vince just quote Fred Dibnah?!
If so, it might have been through Osmosis.
I slowed you down to 50% to see what the resin pour looked like at real speed. You don't sound … very well … at that rate!
I am sure it sounds ... strange. ;)
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