The BEST 12V Alternator Setup for your Willys Jeep
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- After years of trial and error, I have finally settled on a 12V alternator conversion that works great with the factory Willys engine. Most alternators are designed to charge at much higher rpm's than the L134/F134 can produce. Selecting a proper MSD alternator and bracket from jeep1942 is key. With this setup, I'm seeing full charging at extremely low rpm. My battery no longer runs low on voltage.
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The perfect belt is #13A1040
I recently converted my 52 M38 to a 12V and the used the Kaiser Willy’s kit. Your correct the bracket is trash and I’ll be ordering the bracket you have shown in the video. Cannot get my pulley to align properly enough to stop it from squealing when the engine is running.
Just found your channel and enjoying the content. It was probably mentioned by others but the amp output rating is based on alternator RPM. GM alternators generally have enough amperage to maintain the vehicle electrical system and charge the battery at like 1000 RPM. With an 8 inch crank pulley and a 4 inch alternator pulley, an idle speed of 600 RPM would turn the alternator at 1200 RPM. The old alternator was probably junk but with the belt and sheave mismatch would end up eating belts and leave you stranded. You should be able to clock the body of the alternator to rotate the battery stud away from the battery tray. Most GM style alternators can be clocked for different applications.
I have the 225 v6 and 232 258 six. Haven't had a good alternator for a long time. The rebuilds I get don't do well. Need to take them to a local shop for rebuild where they care about their reputation.
Part of the issue with charging at low rpm is your belt and pulley mismatch.
The small 1/2 belt rides deep in the groove of the crank pulley. It gives the effect of a smaller pulley and actually slows down the alternator.
Swapping the alternator pulley to a small 5/8 pulley and running the correct 5/8 belt would make a big difference
I was using the correct 5/8 belt with the eBay black alternator I bought. It still wouldn't keep up with my electrical load unless revved out. Oddly enough, 20 miles into that alternator setup, the pulley started chewing belts and stranded me in the Rubicon trail
Great video!!!
Did you have to change out your original 24v starter when doing the 12v conversion? The mini high torque starters are cheaper, but i do not want to lose the push button start on the floor. My M38 was already converted to 12v when i got it, but still has the original 24v starter.
You have to remember that alternator Dynoed at 2k and 7 k, but you have a way smaller pulley in the alternator compared to the crank pulley, so you may be making 60 amps at idle and 100+ at 1500rpm
Very true, forgot to mention pulley sizes in the video
How do you align that bracket I can’t get it straight it sits behind where it should
You and metalshaper have the best jeep channels by far…
After a year I hope that your charging issues are resolved, as an observation the pulley diameter needs to be smaller so that it rotates faster on your budget alternators, as is the new alternator that you’ve installed, I’m impressed about the research and you’re ability to adapt to new technologies,
I’m quite a bit older and I’ve managed to stay up with these developments also. If only there was TH-cam 70 years ago, the money that could have been saved and shortening the learning curve. Thank you for keeping the hobby alive.
Great job with the review. Its cool they would send you one for your project 🙂👍 Take care 🔧
I am in the UK, trying to find these brackets is like looking for the holy grail
Plenty in the US, none in the UK, shipping from the US is just far too expensive and takes a long time
These brackets look idea for my alternator
So where can I get em in the UK ?
Could have just gone with a smaller alternator pulley and increased the ram on it. And found it in an A size belt to match the stock size pulleys for the old sizing of belts ... fractional horsepower belts.
I have the same alternator bracket for my 3B and my fan belt has about the same angle on it with no washes for shims. I ran the same bracket from Kaiser Willys for years. It wasn't fun to set up but it worked. When that alternator finally died I did get the one from Classic Military Vehicles. I did have an alternator from a spare F134 engine I have. It worked for a bit but it stopped charging. The brushes were dirty and it worked. I haven't installed it yet because been working my GPW getting that all done. For that one I kept is 6v stock for fun and I really enjoyed doing that. I do have a solid state voltage regulator though. Can't tell though.
I have a 1964 Land Rover Series 2a and a lot of your videos also apply to my old Land Rover. We have a lot of the same problems so thanks for the videos!
I have an extra Delco 27si out of a cucv I plan on putting in my cj2a. I'll have to look into that bracket to see if it will work. Thanks for the info
Did you have to drill out the mounting hole on the MSD alt in order for the bolt to fit through and mount to the engine block?
I had to shim the bracket also . Same problem alternator sat too far forward. I used a brass 90° on the bottom of the filter canister ,to change directions
I LOVE the bracket. Thank you!
As always another great video 👍
Thank you for sharing and already waiting for the next one 👌
I use a gm 10si. Made for a tractor with a 5/8 belt
Question; the alternator you show #5321 is rated for 120a , but the listed amperage on your tag is 160a. However, the listed information implies you got model #5361
I’m confused. Can clarify?
I believe it's due to the rpm that you'll be spinning it at
@@TurnNBurn Let me clarify. You received model 5321, the indicated amperage on the tag is 160a. However the 160 amp model is model 5361. So it looks like you paid for a lower amperage unit, but got the higher amperage output. Am I missing some?
Thank you great tip